Cineraria (Pericallis hybrida) Planting Methods and Cultivation Management Techniques (with pictures)
Cineraria is one of the main ornamental plants of the winter and spring seasons, also known as the florist's cineraria and cucumber flower. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Pericallis in the Asteraceae family, usually grown as a 1- to 2-year-old plant, and is divided into tall-growing and dwarf varieties. Its flowers are vivid, and it can be planted in flower beds or grown in pots and placed along corridors and passageways, giving people a fresh and pleasant feeling. Now let us take a look at how to grow cineraria!
Cineraria's Growth Habits
Cineraria likes a warm, humid and well-ventilated environment. It cannot tolerate high temperatures and is afraid of frost. It is generally cultivated in a low-temperature greenhouse, with the nighttime temperature not lower than 5°C, but seedlings can also withstand a low temperature of 1°C. During the day it should not exceed 20°C, with 10-15°C being most suitable. If the room temperature is too high, it tends to grow leggy, causing the internodes to elongate and losing its commercial value. If the temperature is too low, it affects plant growth and the flowers develop small. Cineraria is a light-loving plant; with sufficient sunlight the leaves are thick and deep in color and the flowers are vivid, but excessively strong sunlight can also cause the leaves to curl and lose their vitality. Because cineraria's leaves are large and thin, it needs to maintain sufficient moisture, but it must not be overly wet; it is best to keep the leaves from wilting.
Cineraria's Ornamental Value
1. Decorative application: Cineraria is a greenhouse flower. Grown in pots as an indoor display, its flowering period is early, and blooming in the cold winter is especially precious. Its flower colors are rich and vivid, especially the blue flowers, which shimmer with a velvety luster, elegant and moving. It blooms uniformly and the flower form is full; it can be displayed on low indoor stands, or multiple pots can be arranged in rows to form patterns to decorate hotel atriums, meeting venues or theater forecourts, a mass of blooms full of joyful festivity.
2. Ornamental value: Cineraria's flower colors are rich and brilliant; the main cultivated varieties include Europe's “red flower”, Africa's “pink flower”, and the Mediterranean's “red with speckles”, among others. Cineraria is one of the main ornamental potted flowers for New Year's Day and the Spring Festival. Cineraria is cross-pollinated, hence it has many horticultural varieties.
Cineraria's Propagation Methods
1. Sowing method: Cineraria is generally sown in late July, and it takes about half a year from sowing to flowering. The sowing time can also be determined according to when the flowers are needed; for example, for New Year's Day flowers, sowing can be chosen in mid-to-late June. When daylight is longer, flower buds may appear earlier, but the stems are slender and the plant is smaller, affecting the overall ornamental effect. Sowing early makes the plant lush and the flower form large, so the sowing period should not be delayed until after August.
2. Cutting method: Double-petaled varieties of cineraria do not set seed easily, so cuttings can be used. Usually from January to June, shoots sprouting from the roots or axillary buds after flowering are cut as cuttings and inserted into sand; they root in about 20-30 days, and after 5-6 months of nurturing they can bloom. Root shoots can also be used for division propagation.
Cineraria's Planting Methods
1. Soil: Cineraria likes sandy loam rich in humus and well-drained; it dislikes drought and is afraid of waterlogging, and is suitable for neutral and slightly acidic soil. For planting cineraria, the potting soil can be mixed from 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold, 2 parts compost soil and 2 parts river sand, with cake fertilizer and superphosphate added as a base fertilizer.
2. Watering: Cineraria's leaves are large and thin, so it needs to maintain sufficient moisture, but the potting soil must not be overly wet; keeping the leaves from wilting is appropriate. Normally, watering depends on whether the potting soil is dry or wet; water again after it dries, about once every 2-3 days. Each day, clean water can be sprayed on the leaves once, and in hot weather it can be sprayed twice, to lower the temperature and increase air humidity. After flower buds appear, watering should be controlled as much as possible. During the flowering period, the pot should be placed in a cool environment of 8-12°C, which can extend the flowering period to 30-40 days.
3. Sunlight: Cineraria is a short-day, light-loving flower. Sufficient light conditions not only keep the plant's canopy neat and compact with abundant flowers and lush leaves, but also enhance disease resistance and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases. Insufficient light makes the flower stems grow slender and the flower colors pale and off-tone, affecting the appearance. It should have about 8 hours of sunlight per day. In summer, avoid direct scorching sun, otherwise the leaf tips will turn yellow and wither; it should be placed in a well-ventilated spot with diffused light for care. In snowy winters, insufficient light should be prevented.
4. Temperature: Cineraria likes warmth but cannot tolerate high temperatures; it grows best under conditions of 15-20°C. When the temperature is higher than 21°C, leggy growth can occur, which is unfavorable for flower bud formation. When the temperature is lower than 5°C, the plant stops growing and developing; below 0°C, frost damage occurs. The suitable temperature for flowering is 10-15°C; below 6°C the buds cannot open, and above 18°C the flower stems grow slender, affecting the ornamental value.
5. Fertilizing: In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting time, cineraria should be given a thin cake fertilizer topdressing once every 7-10 days during growth; diluted chemical fertilizer can also be used. After flower buds appear, 1-2 additional applications of 1000-times potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be given. Fertilizing continues until flowering (stop during the rainy season). If fertilizer contaminates the leaves during application, rinse them promptly.
6. Pests: The common pests and diseases of cineraria are aphids and red spider mites. For serious aphid and red spider mite infestations, a 2000-times dimethoate dilution can be sprayed to kill them. Because red spider mites generally occur on the underside of leaves, while aphids generally occur on the young tops of cineraria, when spraying pesticide, focus on the leaf undersides and the top of the plant, and also spray the upper leaf surfaces appropriately.
Cineraria's Pot Cultivation Techniques
1. Preparation before sowing: First, the sowing soil should be deeply plowed and sun-exposed for about 20 days. The sowing soil mix is 3 parts leaf mold, 2 parts sandy soil, plus a small amount of cake fertilizer mixed together. On the day before sowing, the soil should be disinfected by evenly spraying carbendazim, then the soil should be leveled and thoroughly watered with bottom water, so that the soil moisture content is not less than 70%.
2. Sowing and seedling separation: The sowing seedbed must first have shade, rain protection and cooling measures in place. Sow each gram of seeds on the soil surface, then cover lightly with a thin layer of soil about 0.5 cm. Before and after emergence, keep the soil surface moist, with the temperature controlled at about 25°C and the humidity controlled at about 60%, which is suitable. About 40 days after emergence, seedling separation is needed, with a planting density of 12×12 cm between plants and rows. During seedling separation, shade is needed for about 10 days, and water thoroughly once.
3. Potting: Potting is done one month after seedling separation, using plastic pots or clay pots with a pot diameter of 18 cm. The nutrient soil mix is 6 parts sandy loam, 3 parts wood chips or rice husk ash, and 1 part cake fertilizer; it should be prepared one month before potting and set aside. For cineraria after potting, the lateral buds that appear at the 3rd to 4th nodes at the base should be removed at any time, to reduce nutrient consumption and avoid overly crowded branches and leaves, thereby concentrating more nutrients to supply the growth of the upper flower branches, which helps produce more, larger and more vividly colored flowers.
Cineraria's Seed-Saving Techniques
1. Cultivating strong seedlings: Cineraria is not cold-tolerant, nor heat-tolerant; it likes sunlight and moisture, so it should be planted in a ventilated, cool environment and in well-drained soil. It can also be pot-grown, and protective facilities for warmth and shading are also needed. Cineraria likes fertilizer; after planting, apply a thin fertilizer solution once every 5 to 7 days, applying thin fertilizer frequently, and pay attention to the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, to cultivate robust plants.
2. Bud-stage management: Cineraria generally can send out 20 to 40 main branches from the main stem, and the tip of each main branch forms a flower bud. Each node of the main branches also sends out 3 to 4 lateral branches, and each lateral branch also has a flower bud. Therefore, pruning and disbudding are needed; generally keep 15 to 30 main branches with strong growth vigor, and try to make the flowering periods of the flowers consistent, and remove all the remaining main branches and lateral branches, to concentrate the nutrient supply.
3. Flowering-stage management: During the flowering period of cineraria, the main tasks are removing the ray florets (that is, the marginal flowers) and removing the suckers. Removing the ray florets is generally done in the morning, using the hands to remove the ray florets of the opened flowers one by one, and at the same time attention must be paid to removing the suckers.
4. Seed collection: When cineraria seeds mature, the flower disk cracks slightly, the calyx begins to fall off, the pappus has begun to appear, and the seed coat turns black. When you squeeze out the flocculent material inside with your hands and the flocculent material has also turned black, this indicates that the seeds have fully matured. This is the best time to harvest the seeds; if harvesting is too late, the seeds will naturally scatter and fly away. When collecting seeds, collect and store them separately according to flower color. Harvest them together with the flower disk, dry them in the sun, extract the seeds, and store them in a cool, ventilated and dry place.
Cineraria's Pest and Disease Control
1. Red spider mite
[Damage] The damage of red spider mites to cineraria begins in March, when the greenhouse is dry and warm. The overwintered female adults begin to feed and lay eggs at this time; they usually cause damage around the main veins on the underside of the leaves. On the upper surface of the affected leaves, small chlorotic white spots are initially visible, gradually turning red, and silk webs appear on the underside of the leaves. The damaged leaves will eventually fall off.
[Control] The earliest prevention should be in winter, ensuring the environment around the cineraria is clean, promptly removing weeds and fallen leaves, checking the potting soil, and eliminating overwintering pest sources. During the pest outbreak period, if the cineraria has not yet budded and bloomed, you can spray 2000-times 40% dicofol emulsion or 1000-times 40% omethoate solution once every 7 days, for a total of 2-3 sprays, with fairly good results. If the cineraria has already budded and bloomed, to avoid the flowers being sensitive, try not to spray pesticides. You can use foliar water spraying to wash them off, or use chewing gum to stick and remove the pests. You can also use the extract liquid from some natural plants such as garlic, scallion and Sichuan pepper, mashed and soaked in water for several days, combined with an appropriate amount of neutral laundry detergent for spraying control.
2. Aphids
[Damage] Aphids are small in body and reproduce quickly; they mostly cluster on the underside of the leaves and on the tender stems of cineraria to suck sap and cause damage. The affected leaves turn yellow and curl and wrinkle toward the underside. Generally, in years with a warm winter, an early spring warming and even rainfall, damage begins in March.
[Control] Because aphids overwinter on cineraria as eggs, after inspecting the plants in winter, spray the plants with 5-degree Baumé lime sulfur mixture to eliminate the overwintering eggs. During the aphid damage period, spray 1200-2000-times 40% omethoate or 1000-times 40% acephate solution. To avoid pesticide damage during the flowering period, botanical agents such as 3% natural pyrethrin, 25% derris extract and 40% nicotine sulfate can also be used, all of which can be diluted to 1000-1500-times solutions.
3. Tussock moths
[Damage] The damage of tussock moths to cineraria is mainly caused by the larvae, often called hairy caterpillars. The young larvae cluster to cause damage, gnawing the leaf flesh and leaving the epidermis, like a skylight. Slightly larger hairy caterpillars disperse to cause damage, biting the leaves into notches and holes. The entire plant is damaged starting from the larger leaves at the lower part. The peak period of the pest is mostly in April, when the greenhouse temperature stabilizes at about 20°C.
[Control] If chemical control is adopted, spray 1000-times 50% fenitrothion or 50% phoxim solution. But at this time cineraria is usually in its flowering period, so only manual capture is relatively safe. It is worth noting that hairy caterpillars are toxic to human skin and can cause dermatitis, so you must wear gloves and use tweezers to catch them as a precaution.
4. Powdery mildew
[Damage] Cineraria is most susceptible to powdery mildew, which is a widely spread fungal disease. On the upper surface of infected leaves, white adhering matter appears, and the leaves curl and deform, wither and fall early.
[Control] The simplest preventive method is to ensure sufficient light and timely ventilation. If the disease has already occurred, at the initial stage spray 1000-times 70% thiophanate-methyl solution or 2000-times diluted 50% amobam solution, or 2000-times 25% triadimefon wettable powder, to control the condition. At the same time, cut off the diseased leaves and destroy them, and separate the diseased plants from healthy plants to avoid mutual infection and worsening the spread of the disease.
5. Root rot and stem rot
[Damage] In winter, the water in the potting soil of cineraria often does not dry out easily. Poor drainage plus insufficient indoor light and excessively humid air and other adverse factors will cause the occurrence of root rot and stem rot. It manifests as the roots and stems turning black and rotting.
[Control] First, after watering, pay attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, and increase light. Second, for cineraria that has just become diseased, cut away the diseased parts, apply sulfur powder, and replace with loose culture soil and replant.
6. Verticillium wilt
[Damage] Verticillium wilt is mainly caused by viral pathogens. The affected plant has very strong tillering, the inflorescence expansion is suppressed, the flower color turns green, and development is abnormal; occasionally there is also leggy growth of the flowers. The virus is generally spread by leafhoppers.
[Control] During the growth period, appropriately increase potassium fertilizer to enhance the plant's disease resistance and reduce the chance of virus infection. Spraying 0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for disinfection can have a preventive effect. If a plant is found to be infected with the virus, immediately pull out the diseased plant and burn it to prevent spread.
Notes on Growing Cineraria and Cineraria's Propagation Methods
Cineraria is also known as the florist's cineraria and cucumber flower. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Pericallis in the Asteraceae family, usually grown as a 1- to 2-year-old plant, and is divided into tall-growing and dwarf varieties. Its flower meaning is joy, cheerfulness, happiness, family joy and prosperity. It is suitable for giving to relatives and friends during the Spring Festival; its vivid colors express beautiful sentiments. Now let us take a look at how to grow cineraria!
Cineraria's Growth Habits
Cineraria likes a warm, humid and well-ventilated environment. It cannot tolerate high temperatures and is afraid of frost. It is generally cultivated in a low-temperature greenhouse, with the nighttime temperature not lower than 5°C, but seedlings can also withstand a low temperature of 1°C. During the day it should not exceed 20°C, with 10-15°C being most suitable. If the room temperature is too high, it tends to grow leggy, causing the internodes to elongate and losing its commercial value. If the temperature is too low, it affects plant growth and the flowers develop small. Because cineraria's leaves are large and thin, it needs to maintain sufficient moisture, but it must not be overly wet; it is best to keep the leaves from wilting.
Cineraria's Propagation Methods
Cineraria is generally propagated by sowing, sown shallowly on the pot surface in August, with the temperature kept at 20-25°C; it germinates in 10-20 days, and it takes 6 months from sowing to flowering. After sowing, the sowing box should be placed under a shade shed, or under the shade of trees. If sowing in beds, a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce the radiant heat of the sun. Double-petaled varieties are mainly propagated by cuttings; after cutting off the upper part of the plant, take the strong shoots sprouting from the stem and insert them into coarse sand.
Cineraria's Growing Methods
1. Soil: Cineraria is native to the Atlantic Canary Islands and is widely cultivated in parks or courtyards across our country. It likes sandy loam rich in humus and well-drained; it dislikes drought and is afraid of waterlogging, and is suitable for neutral and slightly acidic soil.
2. Sunlight: Cineraria likes sunlight during the growth period and should not be shaded. Rotate the flower pot regularly so that the branches and leaves receive light evenly and the plant shape is upright and not lopsided. After the flowers fade, the plant still needs moderate light to accommodate seed development.
3. Watering: Cineraria's leaves are large and thin, so it needs to maintain sufficient moisture, but the potting soil must not be overly wet; keeping the leaves from wilting is appropriate. Normally, watering depends on whether the potting soil is dry or wet; water again after it dries, about once every 2-3 days. Each day, clean water can be sprayed on the leaves once, and in hot weather it can be sprayed twice, to lower the temperature and increase air humidity. After flower buds appear, watering should be controlled as much as possible. During the flowering period, the pot should be placed in a cool environment of 8-12°C, which can extend the flowering period to 30-40 days.
4. Temperature: Cineraria likes warmth but cannot tolerate high temperatures; it grows best under conditions of 15-20°C. When the temperature is higher than 21°C, leggy growth can occur, which is unfavorable for flower bud formation. When the temperature is lower than 5°C, the plant stops growing and developing; below 0°C, frost damage occurs. The suitable temperature for flowering is 10-15°C; below 6°C the buds cannot open, and above 18°C the flower stems grow slender, affecting the ornamental value.
5. Fertilizing: In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting time, cineraria should be given a thin cake fertilizer topdressing once every 7-10 days during growth; diluted chemical fertilizer can also be used. After flower buds appear, 1-2 additional applications of 1000-times potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be given. Fertilizing continues until flowering (stop during the rainy season). If fertilizer contaminates the leaves during application, rinse them promptly.
6. Pests: The common pests and diseases of cineraria are aphids and red spider mites. For serious aphid and red spider mite infestations, a 2000-times dimethoate dilution can be sprayed to kill them. Because red spider mites generally occur on the underside of leaves, while aphids generally occur on the young tops of cineraria, when spraying pesticide, focus on the leaf undersides and the top of the plant, and also spray the upper leaf surfaces appropriately.
An Introduction to Cineraria's Growing Methods and Notes
Cucumber flower, cineraria, is a perennial herbaceous plant, and can also be grown as a 1- to 2-year-old plant. It is generally divided into tall-growing and dwarf varieties, and it also has terminal flowers; the many flower heads aggregate into corymbs, and its flower colors are also very rich. Apart from yellow, it has all other colors, and there are also bicolor varieties with red and white intermingled. So today let us all learn together about its growing methods.
[Growth Habits]
Cineraria likes a cold environment, and cannot tolerate high temperatures or frost. It likes fertilizer and also likes loose, well-drained soil. Of course, it can also be cultivated in a low-temperature greenhouse or on a cold frame. At night, the temperature must not be lower than 5°C, and during the day the temperature must not be higher than 20°C, which is optimal. In short, the most suitable temperature for its growth is between 10-15°C, and too high a temperature easily causes it to grow leggy.
Cineraria likes the climatic conditions of warm winters and summers without severe heat, and most of all dislikes dry air and scorching sun exposure; it also needs a good light environment. It requires loose, fertile and well-drained soil. It likes a sunny and well-ventilated environment, but avoids direct scorching sun. It likes a cool and humid climate.
Cool temperatures and sufficient sunlight are the main conditions for its good growth; it likes to grow in sandy loam rich in humus and well-drained. It not only dislikes drought but is also afraid of waterlogging, and is most suitable for growing in neutral and slightly acidic soil. Its flowering period is from December to April of the following year, and its peak flowering period is generally in March to April.
[Growing Methods]
Temperature management: Cineraria's flower buds generally form in the severe winter season, so appropriately controlling the temperature is very important. When the temperature drops to 5°C, cineraria should be moved indoors for care. The temperature is best controlled between 10-15°C, and attention must be paid to preventing cold and frost damage, with the nighttime temperature not lower than 8°C. Also pay attention to sudden temperature changes to avoid frost damage. Cineraria likes warmth but cannot tolerate high temperatures. It can grow well under conditions of 15-20°C, but when the temperature is higher than 21°C, leggy growth may occur, which is unfavorable for flower bud formation. When the temperature is lower than 5°C, the plant stops growing and developing, and below 0°C frost damage occurs.
Fertilizer and water management: For cineraria planted in pots, generally a liquid fertilizer is needed about once every 2 weeks. Fermented soybean cake or peanut cake, rotten soybeans and rotten peanuts are all acceptable, and of course they need to be diluted 10 times with water before use. During the bud stage, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 1-2 times, and apply little or no nitrogen fertilizer. This can well promote flower bud growth and control leaf growth. Before flowering, do not apply too much nitrogen fertilizer, control the amount of watering, and the room temperature should not be too high, otherwise the leaves will grow excessively large and affect the ornamental effect. When there are four layers of leaves, control water and fertilizer to harden the seedlings. In winter, place it at a room temperature of 10-13°C in a sunny spot, and the flower colors will be vivid and the leaf color emerald green and lovely. Also remember to rotate the pot regularly, which can make the plant shape grow symmetrically and beautifully.
[Value]
Cineraria is a plant of major ornamental value in the winter and spring seasons. Its flowers are very vivid, and it can be planted in flower beds or arranged in pots in passageways and other places, all giving people a fresh and pleasant feeling.
Because it blooms very uniformly and its flower form is full, it can generally be displayed on low indoor stands. Potted plants are generally mostly used to form patterns to decorate hotel atriums or meeting venues.