Reasons for Yellowing Leaves on Dendrobium officinale and How to Fix Them

Dendrobium officinale has very high medicinal value, and many people have taken up growing it. Many bases cultivating Dendrobium officinale have surely encountered this problem: during cultivation, the leaves turn yellow and some even become dry. Do you know what causes this? Do you know how to handle and solve it? Let us take a look together below!

Unsuitable substrate

[Cause] The aerial roots of Dendrobium officinale are exposed to the air and absorb air and rainwater.

[Solution] The preferred substrate material is tree bark, followed by sawdust, both of which need to be crushed, sterilized and fermented. Usually several materials and substrates of different coarseness are mixed together.

Substrate too wet

[Cause] Too much watering makes the substrate too wet, and the root system rots.

[Solution] For potted Dendrobium officinale, water once every one or two weeks. After watering thoroughly, mist normally, and control factors such as air circulation on the balcony. If the stems and rhizomes of Dendrobium officinale have not died, they can sprout again after warm spring arrives, but watering should be controlled to prevent root rot.

Water shortage and drought

[Cause] Water shortage leads to yellow leaves. Some growers control water excessively, and combined with the currently low humidity, this causes yellowing leaves. Although it is now winter, water control should not be excessive either, especially for bed-planted Dendrobium officinale. In winter, yellow leaves caused by water shortage are fairly common.

[Solution] Water with slightly acidic to neutral water; avoid water containing too many minerals such as calcium and magnesium. In spring, summer and early autumn, ample water is required; after mid-autumn it gradually enters dormancy, so the amount of watering should be reduced accordingly until watering stops completely. You can begin reducing watering when the leaves have not yet turned yellow, reduce further as the leaves yellow and fall, and stop watering when the leaves have fallen completely. In North China, after stopping watering, keep the indoor air humidity relatively high to prevent the pseudobulbs from shriveling. If the room is excessively dry, water the pot once every 1 to 2 weeks.

Too many miscellaneous microbes

[Cause] The substrate contains too many miscellaneous microbes, and the symbiotic bacteria of the root system are not competitive enough, causing the leaves to turn yellow.

[Solution] Use fermented tree bark or wood shavings, coconut shell, bagasse, decomposed fallen leaves or moss as the growing substrate. It must be fully dried in the sun and treated with phoxim for insect control to kill residual pests and eggs in the soil.

Light too strong

[Cause] The growing environment of Dendrobium officinale needs to be kept moist and semi-shaded. If sunlight is too strong, the dendrobium feels dry, which is not good for the respiration of its aerial roots, so controlling its growing environment is very important.

[Solution] Provide ample light. In spring, summer and autumn, keep the shading amount between 30% and 50%. Only with ample light can a large number of flower buds form.

Temperature too high

[Cause] Too high or too hot a growing temperature for Dendrobium officinale causes the leaves to turn yellow.

[Solution] Dendrobium does not like too high temperatures in summer; in the hot summer it often stops growing and should be placed in a well-ventilated location. After flower buds emerge, keep the greenhouse temperature at about 20°C to 25°C during the day and around 15°C at night. It must not be too high or too low, otherwise the flower buds easily drop.

Lack of potassium fertilizer

[Cause] The leaves of Dendrobium officinale first begin to yellow from the leaf tips, then the whole leaf yellows and subsequently falls off. This phenomenon may be potassium deficiency, which makes the leaf tips turn yellow first and then the whole leaf drop.

[Solution] Spray potassium fertilizer.

Physiological yellowing

[Cause] In winter, yellow leaves appearing on the middle and lower parts of old plants (mature plants grown from last year's autumn shoots or this year's spring shoots) is normal, so there is no need to worry.

[Method] No need to worry.

What are the causes of yellowing leaves on spider plants?

 Many people encounter the symptom of yellowing leaves when growing spider plants. What causes this symptom in spider plants? The author will introduce the habits of spider plants and the causes of yellowing leaves to users. If your spider plant at home also shows this symptom, then perfect, let us take a look together!

Growth habits of spider plants

Spider plant is also known as henglan, lancao, zhehelan and so on. This plant originally grew in South Africa. It is a comfortable perennial herbaceous plant. Its leaves are slender, just like orchid leaves, with green or striped coloring in the middle. Next, the flower stalk is drawn out from the leaves and then forms creeping stems at the tips of the leaves. Its flowers are white, and commonly 2——4 grow together. Of course, some flowers are purple. Each plant has roughly 3 to 5 seeds, its flowering period is in May, and August is the fruiting period. In addition, growing spider plants also has the effect of purifying the air, and the plant can also be used as medicine.

Causes of yellowing leaves on spider plants

When growing spider plants, you need to understand the plant's nature: spider plants like warm, humid places, have very strong adaptability, and are also very tolerant of drought. They can be grown successfully in any kind of soil. Next, they also grow very well in sandy soil that drains well and is loose and fertile. The causes of yellowing leaves can broadly be divided into the following:
1 Too much fertilizer, exceeding the growth needs of the spider plant;
2 The potting soil of the pot has not been replaced for a long time;
3 Insufficient light;
4 Poor air permeability and drainage in the soil;

Solutions for yellowing leaves on spider plants

The above are the causes of yellowing leaves compiled for users. The solutions are also very simple. Of course, during the growing process, you should also pay attention to which one is actually the cause of the plant's yellowing leaves.
1 Stop applying fertilizer immediately and water with plenty of clean water, or wash the fertilizer off the roots and replace with new soil.
2 If the soil has not been replaced for a long time, the elements in the soil are also exhausted, so the plant lacks nutrients and the leaves turn yellow. Therefore, users should replace the soil and fertilize promptly.
3 When growing spider plants, ensure the plant receives more than 4 hours of sunlight at the earliest, to increase the chlorophyll in the leaves. Also be careful to avoid strong light exposure.
4 Ensure good water permeability of the pot and good air permeability in the soil.

Editor's reminder: I believe after reading the above, users should understand the causes of yellowing leaves on spider plants and the solutions! During the growing process, first you need to understand the plant's habits, and then make timely adjustments according to conditions. Of course, this can also effectively avoid the phenomenon of yellowing leaves.

Lucky bamboo growing methods and precautions. How to grow lucky bamboo in winter? Lucky bamboo growing methods and precautions

Lucky bamboo, as a bonsai shaping material, can form special shapes such as pagoda shape, curved bamboo and stem bottle arrangements. As the Spring Festival approaches, you can also tie Chinese knots, red strings, lucky cats and other fortune-bringing ornaments onto the bamboo stems, making the lucky bamboo's meaning of "bamboo brings peace" even more profound. So, how do you grow lucky bamboo in winter?

[Recommended reading] Hydroponic lucky bamboo Lily Flower Kalanchoe Globe amaranth Gardenia Clivia Guzmania Balloon flower Mulberry

How to grow lucky bamboo in winter? Lucky bamboo growing methods and precautions
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[Plant profile]
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Chinese name:Lucky bamboo

Scientific name:Dracaena sanderiana

Aliases:Dracaena sanderiana, wan nian zhu, xin shi long shu

Family:Ruscaceae

Genus:Dracaena

Origin and distribution:Native to the Cameroon and Congo areas of western Africa; introduced to China in large quantities in the late 1980s.

Morphological characteristics:Perennial evergreen herb, with slender plants and upright upper parts that have branches. Leaves alternate or nearly opposite, long lanceolate, with obvious 3-7 main veins, short petioles, dark green. Umbels have 3-10 flowers borne in leaf axils or opposite the upper leaves.

How to grow lucky bamboo in winter?
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The suitable growing temperature for lucky bamboo is 22-25°C. During overwintering, room temperature must remain above 10°C. Below 13°C, lucky bamboo enters a dormant state and stops growing. And when the temperature is too low, the root system of lucky bamboo weakens in water absorption, causing yellow-brown patches at the leaf tips and leaf margins, which is the phenomenon of lucky bamboo leaves turning yellow. So in winter, prevent frost damage. Especially in northern regions, do not place lucky bamboo outdoors, and stop fertilizing and control watering, so it can overwinter safely. In addition, for hydroponic lucky bamboo, avoid the water freezing and damaging the roots.

Lucky bamboo growing methods and precautions
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In northern China, the growing season for lucky bamboo is from April to October. Keep the potting soil moist and apply humic acid liquid fertilizer once every half month. In summer, too strong light will make the leaves turn yellow, so lucky bamboo grown outdoors needs shading and is better placed on a north-facing balcony. When the climate is dry, sprinkle water on the ground and leaves 1-2 times a day. From November to March, move it indoors for care, place it in front of a south-facing window in sunlight, and keep it above 10°C so it can grow slowly. In March to April, repot and replace the soil. The growing soil can be made from peat soil plus 50% garden soil. First place 2-3 cm thick ceramic granules or coarse gravel at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, then add the growing soil. After planting, keep the lucky bamboo potting soil slightly moist. Once new buds emerge, normal water and fertilizer management can be carried out. After about two years of cultivation, the stems should be cut back and replanted. The plant can be cut back leaving 5-6 nodes, and the cut-off parts can be used for cuttings or water culture.

Fortune-bringing lucky bamboo tied into shapes is mostly grown in water and placed in a bright indoor spot. When the temperature is relatively low, change the water once every 7-10 days; during the peak growing seasons of spring and autumn, change the water once every 3-5 days, and add complete-element compound fertilizer to the water to provide nutrients. To avoid root rot or algae growth, it is best to use cooled boiled water for hydroponics during the hot summer period.

Note: Do not place lucky bamboo next to a television or in a place where air conditioning often blows, otherwise the leaf tips and leaf margins will dry up. In northern regions, it is better to buy lucky bamboo in spring, as it enters a suitable growing period right after purchase. Lucky bamboo grows poorly in alkaline soil and dry climates, with dull, lusterless leaf color. For hydroponic lucky bamboo, choose plants with evenly thick stems, beautiful shapes, and no rot at the base or root system. For potted lucky bamboo, choose robust plants with dark green glossy leaves, bright golden edge stripes, a height below 30cm, and 3-6 branches.

"Conclusion:Now that we have finished discussing the growing methods and precautions for lucky bamboo, introduced how to grow lucky bamboo in winter, and especially emphasized lucky bamboo leaf yellowing and some precautions for selecting lucky bamboo, I believe everyone has gained a certain understanding and grasp of growing lucky bamboo.

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