Planting techniques and cultivation management key points for the Chinese medicinal herb Asparagus cochinchinensis

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Asparagus cochinchinensis is also known as Sanbaibang, Sidong, Laohuweibagen, Tiandongcao and so on. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Asparagus in the Liliaceae family. It mostly grows in shady and damp places at the edges of mountain forests, in shrub thickets on hilly land, or in hillside grass clumps. It is distributed in Hebei, Henan, Shaanxi, Shanxi, Gansu, Sichuan, Taiwan, China, Guizhou and other places

Growth habits of Asparagus cochinchinensis

Asparagus cochinchinensis is distributed from the southern parts of Hebei, Shanxi, Shaanxi and Gansu provinces to the provinces and regions of East China, Central China and Southwest China. It likes warmth and cannot tolerate severe cold, and it avoids high temperatures. It is often distributed in mountainous areas below 1000 m in altitude. Areas with cool summers, warm winters and an annual average temperature of 18-20°C are suitable for its growth. It likes shade and fears strong light. Under strong light conditions, seedlings grow poorly, and the leaves turn yellow or the seedlings even die.

Propagation methods of Asparagus cochinchinensis

1. Seed propagation: The sowing period of Asparagus cochinchinensis is divided into spring sowing and autumn sowing. Autumn sowing is from early September to early October. Autumn sowing has a high germination rate, occupies land for a long time, and requires labor for management. Spring sowing is in late March, occupies land for a short time, and is convenient to manage. In the seedbed, open horizontal furrows with a row spacing of 20-24 cm, a furrow depth of 5-7 cm, a sowing width of 6 cm, and a seed spacing of 2-3 cm. Use 10-12 kg of seeds per mu. At a temperature of 17-20°C and with sufficient moisture, seedlings emerge 18-20 days after sowing.

2. Division propagation: When digging up Asparagus cochinchinensis, select robust mother plants with large root heads and thick, strong buds. Divide each plant into at least 3 clumps, each with 2-5 buds and more than 3 small tuberous roots. The cut should be small, and lime should be applied to prevent infection. After spreading them out to air-dry for 1 day, they can be planted. The method is the same as transplanting after raising seedlings.

Planting techniques for Asparagus cochinchinensis

1. Land selection and preparation: Asparagus cochinchinensis has well-developed tuberous roots that penetrate 50 cm into the soil. It is suitable for growing in sandy loam (black sandy soil) with deep, loose and fertile soil that is moist and well-drained, or in soil rich in humus. Raise seedlings in valley flatland with short sunlight hours or in shady forest areas. Before sowing, plow deeply and harrow the soil, level and break it up, and make high beds 100 cm wide for sowing.

2. Seed selection and collection: Every year from September to October, Asparagus cochinchinensis is harvested when the fruits turn from green to red. Pile them indoors to ferment until slightly rotten, put them in water and rub off the pulp. Select plump seeds for planting; they can be sown immediately after collection or kept for spring sowing the next year. Store seeds kept for spring sowing in moist fine sand and do not let them dry out, otherwise the germination rate will decrease.

3. Watering to protect seedlings: Keep the soil moist within 1 month after planting Asparagus cochinchinensis. In case of drought, water frequently to promote germination and seedling growth. After seedlings emerge, insert bamboo poles or wooden stakes in time to let the seedlings climb upward and avoid tangling with each other, so as to facilitate ventilation, light penetration and field management.

4. Intertillage and weeding: Asparagus cochinchinensis is generally intertilled for the first time in April-May. Afterward, whether to intertill is decided according to the growth of weeds and the degree of soil compaction. Intertillage should achieve loose soil and thoroughly remove weeds. Intertillage should be shallow to avoid damaging the roots and affecting tuberous root growth.

5. Timely topdressing: Asparagus cochinchinensis is a fertilizer-tolerant plant and needs sufficient base fertilizer and multiple topdressings. The first topdressing is carried out about 40 days after planting, when the seedlings have grown to more than 40 cm. Generally, apply 1000 kg of human and livestock manure water per mu. Afterward, topdress 3 times for each new batch of seedlings: apply the first time when the bud tips first grow, the second time when the seedlings emerge but have not yet grown leaves, and the third time after the leaves have grown. When fertilizing, do not let the fertilizer touch the roots. It should be applied in holes or furrows opened at the edge of the bed or between rows, and covered with soil after application.

6. Light regulation: For Asparagus cochinchinensis planted in forests, branch thinning should be carried out from after autumn to early winter so that the internal light penetration reaches more than 50%. Summer light is strong, and Asparagus cochinchinensis needs little light, so the shade density should be appropriately increased. When planting in open ground, insert branches for shade. In spring and autumn, the shade should be sparse, with 50-60% light penetration in the field; in summer, it should be dense, with 30-40% light penetration in the field.

7. Timely harvesting: Asparagus cochinchinensis generally needs 3 years of planting before it can be harvested. From October to before sprouting the next March, choose a sunny day, first pull out the inserted poles, cut off the stems and vines, then dig away the soil around the roots, carefully take out the tuberous roots, shake off the soil, and pick off the large ones for processing as medicine. Leave the small tuberous roots with root heads as seed material.

8. Processing and storage: After picking off the tuberous roots of Asparagus cochinchinensis, cut off the fibrous roots, wash away the mud and sand with clean water, put them into a boiling water pot and boil for 10-15 minutes, take them out and peel them. When peeling, use your hands and a sharp knife to remove both the outer and inner layers cleanly in one go. Rinse off the sticky gelatinous substance on the outer layer with clean water, air-dry the surface water slightly, put them into a sulfur box (furnace) and fumigate for 12 hours to make the color bright, then take them out and sun-dry or oven-dry them. It is best to sun-dry during the day and fumigate with sulfur at night. At noon when sunlight is strong, cover them with a bamboo curtain while drying to prevent discoloration. Dried Asparagus cochinchinensis should be packed into bamboo baskets and placed in a ventilated, cool and dry place.

What is Iris? What are the planting methods and precautions for Iris?

What is Iris? Iris is also known as: blue butterfly, purple butterfly, flat bamboo flower and so on. It belongs to the order Asparagales, Iridaceae, and is a perennial herb with thick rhizomes and blue-purple flowers about 10 cm in diameter; the capsule is long elliptical or obovate. It is native to central China and Japan. It can be used for ornamental purposes, and its flowers have a light, elegant fragrance and can be used to make perfume. Its rhizome can be used as traditional Chinese medicine, can be collected all year round, and has anti-inflammatory effects. So how is Iris cultivated? Come and learn about it with the editor.

Morphological characteristics

The base of the plant is surrounded by residual membranous leaf sheaths and fibers from old leaves. The rhizome is thick and strong, dichotomously branched, about 1 cm in diameter, and slanting; the fibrous roots are relatively thin and short. The leaves are basal, yellow-green, slightly curved, slightly wider in the middle, broad sword-shaped, 15-50 cm long and 1.5-3.5 cm wide, with a gradually pointed or shortly gradually pointed apex, a sheath-like base, and several indistinct longitudinal veins. The flower stem is smooth, 20-40 cm tall, often with 1-2 short lateral branches at the top and 1-2 cauline leaves in the middle and lower parts; there are 2-3 bracts, green, herbaceous, with membranous and pale margins, lanceolate or long ovate, 5-7.5 cm long and 2-2.5 cm wide, with a gradually pointed or long gradually pointed apex, containing 1-2 flowers.

The flowers are blue-purple, about 10 cm in diameter; the pedicel is very short; the perianth tube is slender, about 3 cm long, with the upper end enlarged into a trumpet shape. The outer tepals are round or broadly ovate, 5-6 cm long and about 4 cm wide, with a slightly concave apex and a narrowly wedge-shaped claw. On the midvein there are irregular crested appendages, forming irregular fimbriate splits. The inner tepals are elliptical, 4.5-5 cm long and about 3 cm wide, spreading outward flat when the flower is fully open, with the claw suddenly narrowing; the stamens are about 2.5 cm long, the anthers are bright yellow, and the filaments are slender and white; the style branches are flat, light blue, about 3.5 cm long, with the apical lobes nearly square and sparsely toothed; the ovary is spindle-shaped cylindrical, 1.8-2 cm long.

The capsule is long elliptical or obovate, 4.5-6 cm long and 2-2.5 cm in diameter, with 6 obvious ribs, splitting into 3 valves from top to bottom when mature; the seeds are black-brown, pear-shaped, and without appendages. The flowering period is April-May, and the fruiting period is June-August.

Classification

The genus Iris can be divided into rhizomatous irises and bulbous irises. Rhizomatous irises are grown as perennials in many flower gardens. German iris, Siberian iris and yellow iris are among the most common. German iris blooms in a variety of colors: white, blue, purple, purplish red, yellow and mixed colors; Siberian iris is almost always blue or blue-purple, with very few being white and yellow; while yellow iris is always yellow.

The number of groups included in bulbous irises is very small. However, in commercial flower production, these groups are extremely important. Among them, the reticulate iris group consists of some cultivars that bloom early and have a short flowering period. For example, the blue-purple reticulate iris and the yellow Danford iris are two of them. The Spanish group includes all Dutch irises, Spanish irises and English irises. However, Dutch iris is the most important in the production of these flowers.

Dutch iris includes a large number of cultivars, and "BlueMagic" and "Prof.Blaauw" are widely planted. Using color to classify irises is a simple and practical method. They can be divided into purple types, blue types, white types, yellow-white types, mixed-color types in which yellow is mixed with various other colors, and multi-color types.

Iris cultivation techniques

It blooms in spring, with a flowering period of about three months, from April to June. Division and sowing are mostly used. Division can be carried out after flowering in spring or in autumn. Generally, divide and replant once every 2-4 years of planting.

When dividing the rhizomes, note that each piece should have 2-3 adventitious buds. Seeds should be sown immediately after maturity, and seedlings need 2-3 years to bloom. The planting distance is 45-60 cm, and the planting depth is preferably 7-8 cm. Forcing cultivation can also be carried out.

Soil requirements

Iris can be planted not only in glass greenhouses or plastic-film greenhouses, but also in open ground. Outdoor planting with temporary coverings, or the use of movable houses, is feasible especially in spring and autumn.

For the production of iris cut flowers, it can actually be carried out in any type of soil, as long as it is well-drained, strongly moisture-retentive, and not compacted (otherwise it will restrict plant growth). Good soil structure is a basic condition, and this is very necessary for the frequent large-scale planting of irises with short growth periods.

In heavy loam, it is recommended to add materials such as peat, vermiculite or coarse sand and mix them with soil about 25 cm deep to improve the soil. For soil that easily compacts, after planting, cover the soil surface with a layer of materials such as rice hulls, straw, pine needles, black peat or similar materials to prevent soil compaction. This method can also be used to prevent the soil from drying out too quickly.

Temperature control

After planting, soil temperature is the most important factor, with a minimum temperature of 5-8°C and a maximum temperature of 20°C. The level of soil temperature directly affects the emergence rate. Too low a soil temperature will reduce flowering ability, so the optimal soil temperature should be controlled between 16-18°C.

For producing iris in a greenhouse, the optimal temperature is 15°C. To shorten the growth period, newly harvested bulbs can be used at planting, and the greenhouse temperature should be kept at 18°C for the first 4-3 weeks. This temperature can be maintained until January 1, but it will cause the plants to be weak. A temperature of 13°C or lower will prolong the growth period and increase plant weight, but the probability of flower withering increases.

In autumn, when the plants are growing, especially in temperate regions, when light is insufficient, the greenhouse temperature must be lowered to prevent flower withering. Generally, control it at 10-13°C and ensure plant growth as much as possible. If the leaves appear excessive at all stages, then consider pruning off some leaves.

The average day and night temperature for production can be 20-23°C, with a minimum temperature of 5°C. In a greenhouse with high temperatures and weak light, lack of light is the main cause of flower withering.

In areas where frost damage often occurs, production can only be carried out in a greenhouse. The suitable growing temperature should be arranged at night. Therefore, unheated greenhouses should be closed early to make the night temperature as suitable as possible. During the day, ventilation should be started early to avoid harm caused by the temperature rising above 18°C. Shading can also achieve the purpose of temperature control, but a suitable light level still needs to be maintained.

The optimal temperature for open-field growth is 15-17°C. Continuous high temperatures during the day can be shaded with shade nets. It can not only reduce direct solar radiation, but also increase temperature.

Planting density

Planting density varies with different cultivars, bulb sizes, planting periods and planting locations. To make the planting spacing appropriate, a planting net with 64 grids per square meter is usually used.

Fertilization key points

Generally speaking, applying base fertilizer before planting is not advisable, as this will increase the salt concentration in the soil and delay the root growth of iris. Before planting, sample the soil to ensure that the soil contains the correct nutrients. Sampling must be done after soil treatment and leaching. In this way, the missing nutrients can be obtained by directly supplementing fertilizer to the soil later. Iris is sensitive to fluorine, so fluorine-containing fertilizers (phosphate fertilizers) and triphosphate fertilizers are prohibited. Conversely, fertilizers such as diphosphate should be used.

The above is all the content I have learned today about iris. I hope flower lovers will find it helpful after reading this article. If you want to learn more about iris-related knowledge, please continue to follow Duorou Huapu, and we will provide you with more related knowledge!

Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures

Appreciation and introduction of common foliage plant pictures 1

Rubber Tree

[Aliases] Large-leaf green, red Burmese tree, red-mouthed rubber tree, Indian rubber fig

[Family and genus] Moraceae, Ficus

[Place of origin] China

[Morphological characteristics] Evergreen tree. Plant height 2-3 m. Stems hairless, with latex. Leaves thick, leathery, with long petioles, leaves oblong or elliptical

[Cultivation substrate] Sandy loam rich in humus should be selected

[Watering] Just keep the soil slightly dry or slightly moist regularly. Summer is the stage when the rubber tree needs the most water, so it can be watered more. Winter is the period when the rubber tree needs the least water, so water should be supplied less

[Fertilization] During the vigorous growth season, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate and so on should be applied as topdressing

[Light] The rubber tree likes strong direct sunlight and can also tolerate shady environments. However, during cultivation, it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight every day. If conditions permit, it is best to ensure that the plant can receive full sun

[Ventilation] Just maintain appropriate ventilation in the environment

[Temperature] The rubber tree likes high-temperature environments, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The ambient temperature should be kept between 20-30 degrees. When the ambient temperature is lower than 10 degrees, the rubber tree is basically in a state of stagnant growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees

[Disease control] The rubber tree is prone to anthracnose, whose pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or elliptical gray spots appearing on both sides of the leaf veins, and in severe cases the lesions join together and spread to the entire leaf. The control method is to avoid mechanical damage to the plant and reduce opportunities for pathogens to infect the plant; promptly remove diseased leaves to prevent spread; prune reasonably so that the tree maintains a natural open-center form and achieves light penetration and ventilation.

Asparagus fern

Asparagus fern is also known as Yunpianzhu and Shancao, in the Liliaceae family, genus Asparagus.

Place of origin and habits: Asparagus fern is native to South Africa. It likes warm, humid and semi-shady conditions, and cannot tolerate drought or frost. It requires soil rich in humus and well-drained.

Morphological characteristics: Asparagus fern is a perennial herbaceous plant with smooth, soft and slender stems that are climbing. The leaves are fine, horizontally spread out, and small, about 3-5 mm long. True leaves are reduced to scales or spines. Flowers are small, bisexual, and white. Berries are spherical and purple-black. The flowering period is mostly in February-March or June-July, and some bloom twice.

Propagation techniques: Asparagus fern is mostly propagated by sowing and division. Sowing is carried out in March-April, and seeds are soaked for 24 hours before sowing. Sow by dibbling in a 10 cm deep pot, cover with glass or plastic film, maintain a temperature of 20-25°C and keep the potting soil moist, and germination can occur in 20-30 days. When seedlings are 5-10 cm tall, they can be planted in a greenhouse or potted. Large 4-5-year-old plants can be propagated by division in spring.

Management techniques: Asparagus fern is a shade-loving plant and should not be placed in places with too strong light, otherwise the branches and leaves are likely to turn yellow and wither. Watering should be appropriate, keeping the potting soil alternately moist and dry. Generally, watering until the surface soil is moist is enough. In dry seasons, spray clean water on the leaves more often. Asparagus fern likes fertilizer. Apply 1 time every 10-15 days a fully decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen and potassium, or residual milk mixed with water. Asparagus fern grows quickly, so weak, overly dense, old branches and dead stems should be thinned and pruned at any time, which is beneficial for ventilation and maintaining a low posture. Asparagus fern can also be planted in bamboo tubes; their water permeability and water retention are both good, and there is no need to drill holes in the bottom of the pot.

Ornamental value: Asparagus fern is mainly grown in pots for foliage, fresh and elegant, and placed in a study it shows even more of a scholarly atmosphere. The roots, stems and leaves of Asparagus fern can all be used as medicine and can be collected all year round. Its branches and leaves are fine, upright and elegant, with lush green growth in varying density and a graceful posture, making it a good accompanying material for cut flowers, bouquets and flower baskets.

Areca palm

Family and genus: Arecaceae, genus Dypsis, evergreen shrub.

Place of origin and habits: Native to Madagascar in Africa, and mostly potted in various parts of China. Areca palm likes warm and humid environments, likes light and is also fairly shade-tolerant. It grows slowly in height but develops crown width relatively quickly, and naturally self-prunes well. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam and avoids alkaline soil.

Morphological characteristics: Plant height 3-4 m. Stems branch from the ground and have ring patterns; leaves spread in an arch shape and can reach 2 m long, petioles smooth and yellow, pinnae lanceolate, 60 cm long, soft at the tip, with 3 raised main veins on the back; flowers small, in strings, golden yellow, flowering period March-April.

Propagation techniques: Areca palm can be propagated by sowing or division. Generally, potted plants are mostly propagated by division. Division propagation can be done in all four seasons, but autumn is best. Select well-developed shoots from a robust mother plant, cut them from the roots away from the mother plant, and transplant them into a new pot for replanting. Newly planted plants should avoid long exposure to strong light because the root system has not yet developed well. Water appropriately and spray water on the leaves several times a day to keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at about 20-25°C, and normal growth can occur in about 20 days.

Management techniques: Indoor potted areca palm should use slightly acidic soil, and in the north care should be taken to choose sandy loam with high humus content. Watering should follow the principle of "dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly" according to the season. In dry and hot seasons, water appropriately more, while in low-temperature rainy periods, control watering. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, care should be taken to regularly use black alum to adjust soil acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied in all four seasons. In summer, appropriately topdress with nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer, and in winter apply organic flower fertilizer such as sesame paste residue. Rotate the flower pot regularly, often prune the lower and inner dead leaves, and pay attention to trimming the crown shape. In winter, the indoor temperature must be kept above 10°C. When it is below 5 degrees for a long time, it will suffer frost damage.

Ornamental value: The areca palm plant is tall, with drooping green leaves, a free and easy posture, and evergreen throughout the four seasons. When potted and arranged in meeting places, halls and rooms, it appears especially majestic and reflects a tropical scenery. This species is a good material for park and courtyard landscaping in South China. In places such as Hong Kong, China and Macao, China, because its leaves grow radially in all directions, it is also regarded as a symbol of a career "flourishing in all directions." It is highly favored.

Alocasia (Drip Guanyin)

Drip Guanyin is a commercial name. When the soil water content is high, water drips downward from the leaf tips or leaf edges, so many places call it Drip Guanyin. This plant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Alocasia in the Araceae family - Alocasia macrorrhizos. It is native to the subtropics and likes warm, humid and semi-shady environments. It cannot tolerate cold, and in areas north of the Yangtze River basin in China it is grown in pots and moved indoors before winter. Alocasia has low soil requirements, but grows best in well-drained sandy loam or humus loam containing organic matter. Generally, the potting soil mostly uses a mixture of leaf mold, peat soil and coarse sand at 2:2:1. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist and apply 1-2 times per month a dilute N, P, K liquid fertilizer mainly based on N. In summer, place it in a semi-shady and ventilated place, and frequently spray water around it and on the leaves to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature and keep the leaves clean. In winter, stop fertilizing and control the frequency of watering. Alocasia grows very quickly, so during its growth process, fertilizer and water must be applied in appropriate amounts to avoid bare, empty lower stems that affect ornamental value.

Malabar chestnut (Money tree)

[Aliases] Money tree, Central American kapok, chestnut tree, American peanut

[Family and genus] Malvaceae, genus Pachira

[Place of origin] From Mexico in Central America to Costa Rica

[Soil] Well-drained sandy loam rich in humus is preferable

[Light] The money tree has low light requirements and can adapt well indoors under both strong and weak light. However, full sun can make leaf nodes shorter and the plant shape compact and full. Insufficient light makes the cultivated tree grow more slowly. Do not suddenly move the plant from a shady place to strong light, otherwise the leaves will be scorched, with burnt edges, affecting appearance

[Temperature] The money tree likes a warm and humid climate. Generally, 15-30 degrees is most suitable during the growth stage. In winter it should be moved indoors to overwinter, and preferably the room temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees

[Watering] The money tree should generally be kept regularly moist; remember that it should not be too wet, so as to avoid root rot. In summer, water a money tree placed indoors once every 3-5 days. In spring and autumn, water once every 5-8 days. In winter, watering should be restricted, and it is enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist

[Fertilization] Normally apply organic liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 months. A multi-element compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content can also be applied to promote thickening of the stem base and improve ornamental value. The high-temperature and high-humidity season in summer is very favorable for the growth of the money tree, so fertilizer and water management should be strengthened at this stage

[Economic value] The money tree has a graceful plant shape, bright green leaves and a spindle-shaped tree form. It can be braided into many shapes and can also be made into bonsai of various styles with unique character. Because its seeds contain oil, it was once widely promoted as a woody oil plant in tropical regions

Miniature Coconut

[Aliases] Dwarf palm, dwarf coconut, miniature coconut palm, miniature palm

[Family and genus] Arecoideae, genus Chamaedorea

[Place of origin] Mexico and Guatemala

[Growth habits] It likes high-temperature and high-humidity and semi-shady environments, cannot tolerate strong light, and is not very cold-resistant

[Soil] It requires well-drained, fertile and moist soil. Repot once every 2 years in spring. When repotting, because the roots are very fine, avoid damaging too many roots and affecting its recovery growth

[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. At 13 degrees it enters dormancy, and the overwintering temperature is 10 degrees. It fears direct sunlight and cannot tolerate drought. Under strong sunlight, its leaf color will fade or turn yellow, and in severe cases it will cause sunburn, producing scorched leaves and black spots and losing ornamental value

[Fertilization and watering] This species has a growth period from March to September. Water in time to keep the potting soil moist, but watering should follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. In summer and autumn when the air is dry and the temperature is high, it is also necessary to frequently spray the leaves with water to increase air humidity. During the dormant period, water less and keep the pot surface slightly dry. During the growing season, fertilize 1-2 times per month, and stop fertilizing at the end of September

[Economic value] This species has a small and exquisite plant shape, an elegant and refined form, emerald green and glossy leaves, strong shade tolerance, and a rich tropical charm

King Coconut

[Family and genus] Arecoideae, genus Ravenea

[Place of origin] Eastern Madagascar

[Growth habits] It grows in swamps and along riverbanks in areas with sufficient rain and sunlight. It likes environments with sufficient light and sufficient water, and is also fairly cold-resistant and shade-tolerant

[Soil] It has low soil requirements, but loose, fertile and well-drained soil is more favorable for its growth

[Temperature] It grows rapidly when sunlight and water are sufficient, and the suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees. When potted, it can be moved indoors to overwinter in cold regions

[Fertilization] It likes magnesium fertilizer. Topdressing once a month can make the leaves emerald green; when magnesium is deficient, the leaves turn yellow

[Economic value] This species has a thick trunk, an elegant and light plant shape, and is beautifully green, with pinnate compound leaves resembling feathers. At the same time, because it adapts to a wide range of regions and grows well, it is an increasingly popular landscaping tree species. Potted plants used for indoor display have a rather tropical mood

Dwarf Umbrella Tree

[Aliases] Duck-foot wood, hand tree

[Family and genus] Araliaceae, genus Schefflera

[Place of origin] New Hebrides Islands in the South Pacific

[Growth habits] It likes high temperature and high humidity

[Soil] The cultivation soil is preferably well-drained loam or sandy loam

[Temperature and environment] The suitable growth temperature is about 20-28 degrees. The temperature should generally not be lower than 12 degrees or higher than 30 degrees. If the winter temperature is too low, it will shed leaves and lose ornamental value. When the temperature drops to 5 degrees, insulation is needed. In summer, avoid strong direct sunlight all day. It should be placed in a bright indoor place, but direct sunlight must be avoided. If placed in a dark place, the yellow-white patches of variegated cultivars will gradually disappear. After direct exposure to strong light, the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off. When planting on a balcony, shade is needed in spring and summer, and light is needed in autumn and winter

[Watering and fertilization] In spring and autumn, the potting soil should alternately be dry and wet; in summer, mainly wet; in winter, mainly dry. It is not selective about water quality. The growing period is mainly from April to October, and fertilize once every half month

[Economic value] The leaves of the dwarf umbrella tree are oil-green, palmately compound, leathery and glossy; variegated cultivars are yellow and green interspersed, making them ideal indoor ornamental plants. The dwarf umbrella tree tolerates pruning well and has strong sprouting ability. The plant posture is elegant, and especially when used to beautify a room it can compare with high-grade flower species. The flowers of the dwarf umbrella tree are a winter nectar source, and the root bark and leaves can also be used as medicine

Short-spike Fishtail Palm

[Aliases] Clustering fishtail palm, wine coconut

[Family and genus] Arecaceae, genus Caryota

[Place of origin] Guangdong, Guangxi and Hainan in China, Indochina Peninsula, India

[Growth habits] A semi-heliophilous tree species, it grows poorly under strong sunlight. It likes warm, high-humidity and well-ventilated environments and has relatively strong cold resistance, making it one of the more cold-resistant palm plants

[Soil] It has relatively strong growth vigor and a developed root system, and has low requirements for soil conditions. When potted, garden soil and humus soil can be mixed in equal amounts as the substrate. Generally, repot once every 1-2 years. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, cut off some old roots, replant with new soil, and add a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer

[Temperature] The suitable growth temperature is 18-30 degrees, and the overwintering temperature is 3 degrees. It can endure short periods of low temperature of -1 to -2 degrees, and will suffer frost damage if below this temperature for a long time

[Light] It is a light-loving plant and needs sufficient sunlight during the growing period. It has relatively strong adaptability to light and is also suitable for cultivation and appreciation in brighter indoor places

[Watering]The roots are semi-succulent and have a strong drought tolerance. During the growing period from March to October, water once a day; in other seasons, keep the soil moderately moist when watering, and never let water accumulate in the pot, as this can cause root rot. During dormancy, simply keep the potting soil moist. In dry climates, spray water on the leaves to keep them deep green and glossy.

[Fertilizing]During the growing period, generally apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer 1-2 times a month to promote vigorous plant growth.

[Economic value]This plant grows in clumps and is extremely vigorous. It has a graceful, slender form, dense branches and leaves, and a full, richly layered tree shape. Its leaves are uniquely shaped and deep green, making it an excellent indoor ornamental foliage plant. It is often planted in medium to large pots and placed in lobbies, entrance halls, conference rooms and other such places, where it looks exceptionally impressive. The pith of the stem contains starch, which can be made into "sago" for eating. The sap of the inflorescence can be used to make sugar and brew alcohol.

Pothos

Pothos, also known as stone taro. Araceae family, a large evergreen climbing vine. Native to the Solomon Islands, in tropical regions it often climbs over rocks and tree trunks in fish forests and can grow into a huge vine. The green leaves have yellow patches.

Pothos is one of the very best indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant, like green reliefs. With its bright, lively green decoration, it is full of vitality and adds a warm, pleasant charm to any room.

It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying interiors. Placed indoors, it fills the room with vitality.

Temperature: Prefers a warm environment; minimum winter temperature 10-13°C; variegated pothos 16°C.

Light: Prefers a semi-shaded environment; can grow well in relatively bright rooms; excellent variegated varieties are prone to dying under weak light conditions.

Water: In spring, summer and autumn, the potting soil should have sufficient moisture; water when the top 1-2 cm of soil surface dries out; in winter when temperatures are low, reduce watering.

Air humidity: Prefers high temperatures and high humidity; spray the plant regularly.

Repotting: Repot in spring as needed.

Propagation: Stem cuttings root easily in spring and summer; for totem poles, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, as this shapes up faster.

Brazilian wood

The scientific name of Brazilian wood is Dracaena fragrans, also known as Brazilian iron tree, Brazilian millennium tree, and golden-edged fragrant dragon tree. It is a plant of the Liliaceae family and the genus Dracaena.

Origin and habits: Brazilian wood is native to tropical regions. It prefers environments with ample light, high temperatures and high humidity, and is also tolerant of shade and drought. It grows well in bright indirect light and in the relatively dry environment of northern homes.

Morphological characteristics: Brazilian wood is an evergreen tree with a neat form and an upright stem. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40-90 cm long and 6-10 cm wide, with slightly blunt tips, curved into a bow shape, and have bright yellow or milky white stripes; the leaf margins are bright green with wavy undulations and a glossy finish. The flowers are small, yellow-green, and fragrant.

Propagation technique: Brazilian wood is propagated by cuttings. Use the branches trimmed from stems with poorer form as cutting material, cut them into 5-10 cm sections, and insert them upright or flat into a cutting bed with coarse sand or vermiculite as the medium. They can also be rooted by water culture. The specific method is to insert the cut stem sections into water; the cut surface should be smooth, and the upper end can be coated with wax to prevent water evaporation, which is especially important in dry seasons. The lower end is immersed 2-3 cm in water, the temperature should be above 25°C, and the water and container should be kept clean. Tip cuttings with leaves root faster, rooting and being potted up in 3-4 weeks; stem sections root more slowly, sometimes taking 2-3 months to grow new roots and new shoots.

Management technique: As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, Brazilian wood can grow all year round. In summer when temperatures are high, appropriate shading is needed. In winter, room temperature must not be below 5°C, but it is best to let it go dormant in winter, with a dormancy temperature of 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear on the leaf tips and margins. Indoor Brazilian wood should be placed in a spot with ample light. If the light is too weak, the patterns on the leaves will turn green, the basal leaves will yellow, and it will lose its ornamental value. During cultivation, keep the water clean and water 1-2 times a week; do not overwater, to prevent the trunk from rotting. In summer when temperatures are high, spraying can be used to raise air humidity, and water can be sprayed on the leaves to keep them moist.

During the growing period, Brazilian wood should be given appropriate foliar fertilization, spraying the leaves with 100-fold diluted nutrient solution once every half month. After Brazilian wood has been cultivated for several years, when the plant is too tall or the lower leaves of the stem have fallen off and the plant form is poor, pruning should be carried out. Repot or change the soil every year in early spring. If the environment is unsuitable for potted Brazilian wood, it may be harmed by red spider mites, thrips, scale insects and so on. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering and excessive fertilization can all cause the leaf tips to scorch.

Ornamental value: Brazilian wood is a rather popular large indoor potted flowering plant, especially when placed in larger living rooms, studies and sitting rooms, where it creates an elegant, plain style with a southern tropical flavor. It is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful and neat plant form.

Peacock arrowroot

Also known as mosaic arrowroot, it is a foliage plant of the Marantaceae family and the genus Maranta. The base has tubers, the plant height is 20-30 cm, the leaves are oblong-elliptical, the leaf surface is green-white, and there are rather brown markings along the edges of the midrib. The leaves are evergreen all year round and have a unique metallic luster; the brown patches are like a peacock with its tail spread, and the colors are fresh, gorgeous and soft, making it a common indoor foliage plant. Many plants of this genus have high ornamental value and are important plants used to decorate indoor environments around the world. Common varieties include:

(1) Variegated arrowroot. Also known as variegated arrowroot, the leaves are oblong-elliptical, large and thin, the leaf surface is green like velvet, with zebra-stripe-like feathery bands on both sides of the midrib, and the leaf underside is purplish red.

(2) Red-backed arrowroot. The leaves are broadly elliptical, the surface is green with inconspicuous markings, and the leaf underside is purplish red.

(3) Mosaic arrowroot. Also called arrow-feather-pattern arrowroot, the leaf surface is green, with pale yellow feathery stripes on both sides of the midrib, the leaf underside is deep purple, and the flowers are pale yellow.

(4) White-spotted arrowroot. The plant height is 50-60 cm, the stems are weak, the leaves are large and thin, ovate-lanceolate, with irregular white patches interspersed on the green leaves.

(5) Double-line arrowroot. Also known as red-feather arrowroot, the leaves are oblong-elliptical, the surface is pale green, with parallel double lines of white or peach-red on both sides of the midrib, which is very beautiful.

Peacock arrowroot is native to the Americas. It prefers semi-shade and a high-temperature, humid environment, and is not cold-tolerant. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C; above 35°C or below 7°C is unfavorable for growth. The wintering temperature must not be too low, otherwise the leaves tend to curl. It requires loose soil rich in humus with good drainage.

Arrowroot-type plants are mainly propagated by division, mostly carried out in spring in April-May when repotting. Division should not be done too early, otherwise the lower temperatures can easily damage the roots and affect survival and growth. When dividing, separate into 2-3 clumps per plant; too few will affect growth. After planting, water thoroughly once and place in a semi-shaded spot for care. Before new roots emerge, control watering and do not let the soil become too wet.

The potting soil can be mixed from 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat or sawdust, and 1 part sand, with a small amount of soybean cake added as base fertilizer. When potting, first place a 3 cm layer of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.

From May to September during growth, shade the plant or place it in semi-shade, maintaining a light transmittance of 40%-60%, and avoid direct blazing sun, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched or the margins become scorched and curled. If placed indoors for a long time with low temperature and insufficient light, growth will also weaken and the leaves will lose their characteristic luster. In winter, it can receive direct sunlight through glass.

Arrowroot has relatively high humidity requirements. During routine care, the flower pot can be placed on an inverted flower pot, and water should be sprayed frequently on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep the surroundings and ground moist, thereby increasing the ambient humidity. Water before the potting soil dries out completely, otherwise the leaves are prone to curling and scorched edges from dryness. During the peak growing season, apply a light soybean cake fertilizer or slow-release chemical fertilizer once a week, and do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer. In summer when temperatures are high, apply a thin fertilizer once every half month; stop fertilizing when the temperature is below 15°C. During care, maintain good ventilation conditions, otherwise scale insects are likely to occur, affecting stem and leaf growth and reducing ornamental value.

Peacock arrowroot is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Its leaf surface has feather-like markings alternating between dark green and white or pale yellow, and it has a unique metallic luster, resembling a peacock's tail feathers, hence the name. Peacock arrowroot is small and beautiful in form, with fresh and gorgeous leaf colors, making it an outstanding member of foliage plants. For potting, choose a culture soil mixed evenly from leaf mold, garden soil and a small amount of river sand. During the growing period, apply a thin liquid fertilizer about once every 3-4 weeks. When fertilizing, be careful not to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer; generally the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is 2:1:1, which makes the leaf color glossy and gorgeous. Soilless culture can also be used, applying nutrient solution 1-2 times a month during the growing period. Water just enough to keep the potting soil moist. Peacock arrowroot likes humid air, so attention should be paid to increasing air humidity by spraying and sprinkling water, especially in summer, when more attention should be paid to increasing humidity and lowering temperature to benefit growth. For home cultivation, it can be placed in a bright spot indoors, and strong direct light must be avoided, otherwise it easily causes scorched leaf margins. If kept in a dim spot for a long time, the leaves will lose their characteristic luster. In winter, place it in a bright spot, and also pay attention to cold protection; room temperature should be kept above 13°C, stop fertilizing, and control watering. In northern winters, indoor air is dry, so in addition to spraying and washing the leaf surface with cool boiled water once every 3-5 days, it is best to cover it with a plastic film hood at night to keep it warm and moist. If conditions permit, a humidifier can be used to raise indoor humidity. To maintain its gorgeous leaf color, the leaves should also be gently wiped and washed with clean water regularly. Peacock arrowroot is mostly propagated by division. When dividing, it is best to plant 3-5 plants per pot.

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Peace lily (Spathiphyllum kochii)

Also known as white palm, spathe leaf taro, heterophyllous peace lily, and silver spathe taro. Araceae family, genus Spathiphyllum (peace lily). Native to tropical regions of the Americas.

Morphological characteristics: Perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm. Leaves basal, leathery, oblong-elliptical or broadly lanceolate, with long tips, deep green in color. Leaves 20-30 cm long, about 10 cm wide, petioles about 30 cm long, veins obvious. Because the spathe curls into a spoon shape and is white as a snow lotus, shaped like palms pressed together, it is called white palm; because its pure white spathe leaves resemble a white boat raising its sail on green water, in social interactions it carries the blessing meaning of smooth sailing, to encourage people to strive in life and prosper in career.

The peace lily is very similar to the white anthurium, also having white spathes, but the leaves and the flower's spathe are somewhat different. The peace lily's spathe does not turn outward but curls inward, and the ovate spathe is not as bright and leathery as that of the white anthurium.

Cultivated hybrids of the same genus include: Perfume white palm: its flowers have a faint fragrance. Green giant white palm: also known as green giant, the plant is taller than the peace lily, the leaves are larger than those of the peace lily, and the parallel feather-like lateral veins are more obvious, thus appearing more vigorous and full of vitality, making it a trendy indoor potted plant.

Habits: Prefers warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, and must avoid direct sunlight; it fears cold. Avoid heavy clay soil; sandy loam rich in humus is suitable.

Cultivation management: The peace lily is relatively shade-tolerant, and about 60% indirect light is enough to meet its growth needs, so it can be kept indoors in bright indirect light all year round. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be blocked; strong direct light must be avoided, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and in severe cases sunscald will occur. In northern winter greenhouse cultivation, no shading or little shading may be used. If the light is too dim for a long time, it will be difficult for it to bloom. The peace lily is a high-temperature-loving species and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. In winter, the minimum nighttime temperature should be 14-16°C, and the daytime temperature should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperatures easily cause leaf drop or scorched yellow conditions.

During the growing period, the potting soil should be kept moist regularly, but avoid overwatering and long-term dampness of the potting soil, otherwise it easily causes root rot and the plant to wither and yellow. In summer and dry seasons, frequently use a fine-nozzle sprayer to spray water on the leaf surface and sprinkle water on the ground around the plant to keep the air humid, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow and fall off. In winter, control watering, and it is suitable for the potting soil to be slightly moist.

During the peak growing season, apply a thin compound fertilizer or decomposed soybean cake fertilizer water once every 1-2 weeks. This not only benefits robust plant growth but also helps continuous flowering. In northern winters when temperatures are low, stop fertilizing.

The potting soil can be evenly mixed from leaf mold or peat soil plus about 1/4 river sand or perlite, with a small amount of bone meal or soybean cake powder added as base fertilizer. The potting soil should be loose and have good drainage and air permeability. Generally, repot once every year in early spring before a large number of new shoots sprout. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new culture soil, and plant in a pot one size larger to benefit root development and vigorous growth.

Propagation: Can be propagated by division and sowing, and can also be mass-propagated by tissue culture.

1. Division propagation: Because the peace lily readily produces suckers, this method is mostly used for propagation. Vigorous plants can be divided about once every 2 years. Before new shoots emerge in early spring, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and cut apart the rhizome at the base of the clump. Each small clump should preferably have more than 3 stems and buds, and should carry as many roots as possible to help the new plant quickly produce new leaves and a full plant form.

2. Sowing propagation: This method of propagation is also not difficult. Seeds can be obtained through artificial pollination in a greenhouse. After the seeds mature, sow them as soon as they are harvested. The sowing temperature should be around 25°C; at low temperatures the seeds easily rot.

Pests and diseases: With too much fertilizer or freeze damage, the leaves easily develop yellow tips. At this time, the soil should be changed immediately.

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Marianne dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia types are also known as mosaic dieffenbachia and silver-spotted dieffenbachia. Native to tropical America, plant height 30-90 cm, flowers upright, internodes short, leaves oblong-elliptical, slightly wavy at the margins, leaf surface spread with various milky white or milky yellow markings or spots. It is shade-tolerant, and the leaf color is gracefully green. The main cultivated varieties include Marianne, KIKI, Golden Sun, White Jade, Duozi Zebra, Golden Treasure, and Heavenly Dieffenbachia.

The optimum growth temperature for dieffenbachia is 25-30°C, with daytime temperature at 30°C and nighttime temperature at 25°C. The possible growth range is 18-30°C from February to September, and 13-18°C from September to February of the following year. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C, otherwise the leaves are prone to freeze damage.

Dieffenbachia likes an ambient humidity of 80%. Water when the soil dries to 2 cm on the surface. During the growing period, water thoroughly and spray water on the leaf surface. If water is not sprayed for a long time, the leaf surface becomes rough and loses its luster. Soil moisture is best kept alternating between dry and wet; water more in summer and control watering in winter.

Dieffenbachia is shade-tolerant and afraid of sun. If the light is too strong, the leaf surface becomes rough, and the leaf margins and leaf tips are prone to scorching, or even large-area sunscald. If the light is too weak, the yellow-white patches will turn green. It grows best under bright indirect light, and the leaf color is brighter and more beautiful.

The soil should preferably be fertile, loose loam with good drainage. The potting soil uses a mixed soil of leaf mold and coarse sand.

[Propagation methods]Commonly propagated by cuttings, sowing and tissue culture.

Cutting propagation: Cutting is best done during the high-temperature period from July to August. Cut off the top 7-10 cm of the stem, remove part of the leaves to reduce water evaporation, insert into a sand bed or wrap the cut with water moss, maintain relatively high air humidity, room temperature 24-30°C, roots form 15-25 days after cutting, and transplant into pots after new shoots sprout on the stem section.

Sowing propagation: Dieffenbachia must be artificially pollinated before it sets fruit. After the seeds mature, sow them immediately, and the seeds need to be cleaned thoroughly to avoid mold and rot. Before sowing, the potting soil should be sterilized. After sowing, cover with 1 cm of soil, keep room temperature at 24-29°C, germination occurs 7-14 days after sowing, and transplant when the seedlings are 3 cm tall.

Tissue culture propagation: At present, lateral buds and terminal buds have been used as explants. After routine disinfection, they are inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 3 mg/L 6-benzylaminopurine and 2 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid. After 45 days, when the adventitious buds grow to 2 cm, they are transferred to 1/2 MS medium supplemented with 2 mg/L indoleacetic acid, and roots can form in about 20-25 days, forming complete small plantlets.

[Cultivation management]Dieffenbachia is commonly potted in 15-20 cm pots. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, or use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 four-season high-potassium nitrate fertilizer. When room temperature is below 15°C, stop fertilizing. If the winter temperature is below 10°C and watering is excessive, it will cause leaf drop and stem tip rot. If the plant only loses leaves and the stem does not rot, then after the temperature rises again, it can still continue to sprout and unfold leaves. After potted plants have grown for 1-2 years, there are more basal suckers, and division propagation can be carried out together with repotting. If the plant grows relatively tall, the aboveground part can be cut off leaving 2-3 nodes at the base; the remaining stem nodes can still sprout and branch, maintaining a better plant form.

[Pest and disease control]It is mainly harmed by bacterial leaf spot, brown spot and anthracnose, and can be sprayed with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500-fold dilution. Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, it can be prevented and controlled by spraying with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800-fold dilution.

[Post-production handling]Dieffenbachia has large leaves with beautiful color markings, suitable for potted viewing, embellishing living rooms and studies, and is very comfortable and elegant. Used to place in public places with lower light levels, dieffenbachia still grows normally, with green leaves and lush branches and leaves, full of vitality, and is especially suitable for placement in modern buildings. Dieffenbachia can tolerate 14 days in darkness, and can be stored and transported at 15°C and 90% relative humidity.

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Beautiful phoenix palm

Beautiful phoenix palm, also known as soft-leaved date palm, is a foliage plant of the Palmae family and the genus Phoenix.

The beautiful phoenix palm is an evergreen shrub with a short, thick stem, usually solitary but sometimes clumping, with a plant height of 1-3 m. The leaves are pinnate, upright when young, and slightly curved and drooping after growing a little. There are long spines on both sides of the leaf stalk base, with triangular protrusions, which is one of its characteristics; the leaflets are lanceolate, about 20-30 cm long and about 1 cm wide, relatively soft, and droop in an arc. The spadix is axillary, 20-50 cm long, dioecious. The fruit is about 1.5 cm long, pale green at first, and jujube-red when ripe.

The beautiful phoenix palm is native to the Indochina region, and is widely cultivated in the southern provinces and regions of our country. There are about 17 species in the same genus, mainly produced in the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Africa. It likes a high-temperature, high-humidity tropical climate, prefers light and is also shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant and barren-tolerant, and prefers fertile sandy loam with good drainage. It has relatively strong cold tolerance, and can overwinter safely at around 0°C in winter.

The beautiful phoenix palm is mostly propagated by sowing. After flowering, pollination easily leads to fruit set. The fruit matures in October-November, and after harvesting it is sown immediately or sown in the following spring. Sow the seeds in river sand and keep the medium moist. At 20-30°C, seedlings can emerge in 2-3 months or longer. When the seedling cotyledons reach 5-10 cm, apply thin liquid fertilizer, then divide and transplant into pots, and strengthen water and fertilizer management.

For potting the beautiful phoenix palm, 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil and 1 part river sand can be mixed as the medium, with a small amount of base fertilizer added when planting. It has strong adaptability, and both cultivation and care are simple. During the vigorous growth period from April to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month, keep the potting soil moist, and in dry air spray the plant once a day to raise the ambient air humidity and benefit plant growth; in other seasons, fertilize less or not at all, and keep the potting soil alternately dry and wet. From June to September when sunlight is strong, shading should be provided (a shading level of 50% is suitable) to prevent the leaves from turning yellow; in other seasons, give relatively ample light to help the plant grow robustly. The beautiful phoenix palm is prone to scale insects when the air is dry and ventilation is poor. If scale insects are found, they should be controlled, generally by spraying 800-fold omethoate; at the same time, improve ventilation and air permeability conditions.

The branches and leaves of the beautiful phoenix palm arch and droop like an umbrella, and the leaves are evenly distributed and verdant and glossy. It is an excellent potted foliage plant. Using it to decorate interiors can fill them with a tropical flavor. Generally, small and medium pots are suitable for living rooms, studies and other places, appearing elegant and dignified; large plants in pots are often used to decorate conference venues, halls and so on, appearing solemn and majestic.

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Cast iron plant

Scientific name: Aspidistra elatior

English name: Common Aspidistra

Aliases: spider hold egg, bamboo leaf

Family name: Liliaceae

Morphological characteristics:

Evergreen herb with rhizomes. Leaves elliptical and needle-lanceolate, dark green, with slightly wavy margins. Flowers bell-shaped. Flowering period April. Capsule spherical. Prefers shade and cannot tolerate strong light, prefers warmth and is relatively cold-tolerant, prefers moisture, and is suitable for fertile sandy loam with good drainage.

Silver Queen

Latin name: Aglaonema commulatum cv. Silvcr Queen

Aliases: silver queen dieffenbachia, silver queen Chinese evergreen, silver queen aglaonema

Botanical characteristics: > It is a perennial herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm, stems upright and unbranched, internodes obvious. Leaves alternate, petioles long, base enlarged into a sheath shape, leaves narrow and long, pale green, with gray-green stripes on the leaf surface, relatively large in area.

Silver Queen is famous for its unique air purification ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purification ability! Therefore, it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.

This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a relatively long time.

Can remove: formaldehyde, nicotine

"Silver Queen can absorb the radiation from printers."

Snake plant

Snake plant, also known as tiger skin plant and thousand-year plant, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the Liliaceae family and the genus Sansevieria.

The underground part of the snake plant has tough rhizomes, and it has no stem. Leaves clustered, fleshy linear-lanceolate, hard leathery, upright, slightly grooved at the base; dark green, with horizontal bands alternating between pale green and dark green on both sides, slightly covered with white powder. Racemose inflorescence, flowers white to pale green, with a sweet, elegant fragrance; flowering period spring and summer. Common cultivated varieties include:

Golden-edged snake plant: shaped like the snake plant, but the leaf margins are bordered with broad golden-yellow bands.

Short-spike snake plant: a dwarf variety, plant height about 10-20 cm, a mutant of the golden-edged snake plant, with short and wide leaves that grow in swirling, overlapping fashion.

Onion-leaf snake plant: also called cylindrical-leaf snake plant. The leaves are cylindrical, roughly the same thickness from top to bottom, slightly pointed and thinner at the tip, with longitudinally running shallow groove-like depressions on the leaf surface, and each leaf grows independently.

The snake plant is native to arid Africa and southern Asia, and is cultivated in various parts of our country. It has strong adaptability, prefers warm and humid conditions, is drought-tolerant, likes light and is also shade-tolerant. It is not strict about soil, and sandy loam with good drainage is better. Its optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the wintering temperature is 10°C.

The snake plant can be propagated by division and cuttings. Every spring after the temperature rises, divide the plant together with repotting, that is, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old culture soil, expose the rhizome, and cut it along its direction into several plants, so that each plant contains at least 3-4 mature leaves, and then pot them separately with new culture soil. The propagation material for cuttings is the leaf (that is, leaf cuttings), which can be carried out when the temperature is above 15°C. Cut mature leaves horizontally into 7-8 cm long segments as a cutting, let them dry slightly, and then insert them into river sand. When cutting, be careful not to insert them upside down; maintain a certain humidity, but it should not be too wet, to avoid rotting. In about a month, adventitious buds and adventitious roots can grow from the cut end, forming new plants. Small seedlings propagated by leaf cuttings of golden-edged and variegated varieties are green seedlings, and the golden edges and spots disappear, reducing ornamental value, so these varieties are not suitable for leaf cutting propagation and can only be propagated by division.

For potting the snake plant, equal parts of leaf mold and garden soil mixed with a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer can be used as the medium. It grows well under conditions of ample light. Apart from avoiding direct blazing sun in midsummer, it should receive more sunlight in other seasons; if placed in a too-dim indoor spot for too long, the leaves will become dull and lack vitality. In addition, if it has been placed indoors for a long time, it should not be suddenly moved directly into the sun; it should first be moved to a brighter spot and given a period of adaptation before receiving sunlight, to avoid scorching the leaves. Watering should be moderate, following the principle of preferring dry over wet. Normally, wipe dust from the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and glossy. In spring when new plants sprout at the root crown, water appropriately more to keep the potting soil moist; in summer when temperatures are high, the potting soil should also be kept moist regularly; after late autumn, control the amount of watering and keep the potting soil relatively dry to enhance cold resistance. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; during the growing season, apply thin liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick.

The leaves of the snake plant are firm and upright, and the leaf surface has tiger-tail-like horizontal band markings alternating between gray-white and dark green. Its posture is resolute and peculiar and interesting; it has many varieties, and the plant form and leaf color vary greatly, exquisite and unique; it has strong adaptability to the environment and is a tenacious plant, widely cultivated and used, and is a common indoor potted foliage plant. It is suitable for decorating and arranging studies, living rooms and office places, and can be enjoyed for a relatively long time.

Lucky bamboo

Lucky bamboo, also known as Sander's dracaena, is a foliage plant of the Liliaceae family and the genus Dracaena. Lucky bamboo is an evergreen small tree, with no rhizome underground, and roots that are yellow-brown. The markings and colors on the leaf surface vary by variety. Common cultivated varieties include: golden-edged lucky bamboo: leaf margins golden-yellow, center green. It prefers a high-temperature, high-humidity environment, is not strict about light requirements, likes light and is also shade-tolerant. It is suitable for sandy loam with good drainage. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the wintering temperature is 10°C.

Lucky bamboo is propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are mostly carried out together with shaping and pruning. As lucky bamboo grows taller over many years, the leaves at the base of the stem often fall off and the plant form deteriorates; during the growing season, the stem can be cut into 5-10 cm segments as cuttings and inserted into vermiculite or river sand, and generally roots and shoots form in 1-2 weeks.

For potting lucky bamboo, equal parts of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand can be mixed for planting, or coconut coir and leaf mold with a small amount of base fertilizer can be used as culture soil. In management, the key is to master humidity and temperature well. During the growing season, the potting soil should be kept moist regularly, and water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently to maintain relatively high ambient humidity; too dry will cause the leaf tips to dry up; in winter, the potting soil should not be too damp, but water should still be sprayed on the leaf surface often, and at the same time attention should be paid to cold protection, so that the leaves do not yellow, shrivel and even fall off. During the vigorous growth period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer 2-3 times a month to keep the leaves verdant and glossy. It is not strict about light requirements and is suitable for growing under bright indirect light; avoid direct blazing sun; if exposed to strong sun or dryness, the leaf surface will become rough and scorched, lacking luster, reducing ornamental value.

Anthurium

Scientific name of anthurium: Anthurium andraeanum

Anthurium aliases: flamingo flower, flamingo lily, Anzu flower, red flamingo taro.

Anthurium family and genus: Araceae family, genus Anthurium.

Anthurium origin and distribution:

Anthurium is native to the tropical regions of the Americas and prefers a warm, humid climate. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, but is not shade-tolerant; it likes sunlight but avoids direct sunlight, is not cold-tolerant, likes fertilizer but avoids saline-alkaline conditions. At present, greenhouses with light, temperature and water regulation systems are used for cut flower cultivation. In the frost-free hot regions of Yunnan, good cut flowers and potted flowers have also been cultivated using simple shade sheds. With the improvement of economic levels, anthurium, as a high-grade flower, has good application prospects. The flowers of anthurium are unique, the spathe is bright and gorgeous, rich in color and highly variable, and the flowering period is long, blooming continuously throughout the four seasons, with a very long vase life; the water culture period can reach 1 month, and the single flowering period of potted plants can reach 4-6 months. The optimum growth temperature is 25-28°C, and the wintering temperature should be kept above 15°C. It requires loose, breathable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus with a pH of 5.5-6.5.

Morphological characteristics of anthurium:

It is a perennial herb of the Araceae family, plant height 30-70 cm, leaves emerging from short stems, leathery, long heart-shaped, entire, petioles hard and slender, 30-40 cm long and about 10 cm wide. Flowers terminal, about 50 cm long, spathe heart-shaped, 10-20 cm long and 8-10 cm wide, surface wavy and wrinkled, spathe with bright waxy luster, spadix cylindrical, upright, about 6 cm long, yellow, at first glance looking like an artificial flower, with a peculiar and beautiful flower posture, cut flower life over 30 days, making it a high-grade flower material for flower arrangements. There are many similar varieties, with flower colors including red, peach-red, vermilion, white, red with green stripes, green, orange and so on, with a long flowering period, capable of blooming all year round. Perennial epiphytic evergreen herbaceous flower. Plant height can reach 1 m, internodes short. Leaves emerge from the rhizome, with long petioles, solitary, oblong-cordate or ovate, deep bright green, glossy. Flower buds emerge from the leaf axils, spathe upright and spreading, leathery, perfectly round ovate, orange-red or scarlet. Its variant varieties include those with milky white spathes, those inlaid with white-green, multicolored, and those with delicate red edges, extremely variable. Spadix sessile, cylindrical, upright, slightly leaning outward. Flowers bisexual, perianth with four lobes, 4 stamens, ovary 2-loculed, each locule with 1-2 ovules. Small berries contain 2-4 seeds, pink, densely arranged on the spadix. It is one of the most precious cut flower varieties today, and because its flowers are bright and eye-catching, covered with wax, and have a long freshness period, it has become an important flower arrangement decoration for high-grade occasions.

Ecological habits of anthurium:

It prefers an environment with high air humidity and unobstructed drainage, and likes shade and warmth. In an environment where the daytime temperature is not higher than 28°C and the nighttime temperature is not lower than 20°C, it can bloom and bear fruit all year round; above 35°C will cause sunscald, below 14°C will affect growth, and a sustained low temperature below 0°C will freeze the plant to death. It requires air humidity of 80%, soil pH of 5.5, and an Ec value of 1.2 is suitable. It requires loose, fertile soil, and soilless culture is best.

Anthurium propagation and cultivation

The optimum growth temperature for anthurium is 20-30°C, the maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, the minimum temperature is 14°C, and below 10°C there is a possibility of freeze damage at any time. The optimum relative air humidity is 70%-80%, and it should not be lower than 50%, because maintaining relatively high air humidity in the cultivation environment is the key to successful anthurium cultivation. Therefore, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface many times throughout the four seasons. Anthurium cannot tolerate strong light, and should be cultivated in an appropriately shaded environment all year round, that is, choose greenhouse cultivation with protective facilities. In spring, summer and autumn, appropriate shading should be provided, especially in summer when 70% shading is needed. Direct sunlight will make the leaf temperature higher than the air temperature; if the leaf temperature is too high, phenomena such as sunscald, scorched leaves, fading of flower buds and slowed leaf growth will occur.

1. Anthurium propagation: usually by division, but at present tissue culture is mostly used for mass propagation, and seed propagation is used in breeding. For division, in spring the tiller buds at the rhizome of the adult mother plant can be separated and planted separately; tissue culture mostly uses young leaves as explants, inducing callus to differentiate into clustered buds, then inducing roots to form seedlings. From inoculation to seedling transplantation takes about 4 months, and flowering occurs 2-3 years after planting.

2. Anthurium cultivation: Anthurium is mostly cultivated as a cut flower in greenhouses, and can also be grown in pots for viewing. It requires a greenhouse with heating, ventilation and cooling, and shading conditions. Soilless culture is often used, and the cultivation medium is preferably a mix of 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 perlite and 1/3 peat. Usually planted from January to May, when the seedlings have grown to 6-7 leaves and are about 30 cm tall, with ridges 30 cm high, planted on the ridges, with a plant spacing of 30×40 cm, using drip irrigation, applying nutrient solution twice a week. During the growing period, pay attention to temperature, humidity and light regulation. The optimum temperature is 27-28°C. In summer during high temperatures, spray water and ventilate to cool down; in winter keep the nighttime temperature at 15°C. Adjust the light to 20000-25000 lux, and use shading treatment when it is too strong. Strong light and high temperature in summer easily cause leaf scorch. Too much watering or poor drainage easily causes root rot. The suitable time for harvesting cut flowers is when the yellow part of the spadix accounts for 1/4-1/3, cutting from the base of the flower stalk. Insert immediately into water after harvesting. When transportation is needed, fix each stem individually and lay them flat in layers in a box. Anthurium lasts a long time in water; during water culture, change the clean water once every 2-3 days, and cut off 1 cm from the base of the flower stalk to keep the cut fresh and facilitate water uptake. It can be stored for 3-4 weeks at 13°C and still remain fresh; below 7°C chilling injury occurs. When potting, the potting soil can be peat or leaf mold plus decomposed horse manure plus an appropriate amount of perlite, or 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 river sand. Pot up at the 5-6 leaf stage; use small pots for small seedlings and gradually move them into larger pots as they grow, placing more broken tiles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate ventilation and air release. Repot once every 1-2 years. Watering is best done by spraying and drenching the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. During the growing period, apply thin alum fertilizer water once a week.

Anthurium pest and disease control

The main pests of anthurium are red spider mites and scale insects; the main diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot, which can be controlled by spraying omethoate and thiophanate-methyl at 1000-fold dilution respectively.

Anthurium is much welcomed by people because of its unique flower shape, brilliant flower color and year-round flowering, and because it can be cultivated both as a cut flower and viewed as a potted flower. The spathe of anthurium used as a cut flower is exceptionally bright red and waxy and luminous, with a long vase life. When potted for viewing, in spring when it blooms, the green leaves paired with the bright red spathe are very beautiful; when there are flowers you enjoy the flowers, and when there are no flowers you enjoy the leaves, making it an excellent small indoor potted flower. It is often used for beautifying and arranging family rooms, living rooms and conference rooms. In the global tropical flower trade, anthurium ranks second in sales, second only to orchids. Anthurium is mainly used as a cut flower. In recent years, due to the continuous breeding of new multi-flower varieties.

Green emerald Philodendron

Emerald philodendron, also known as long heart-leaf monstera or emerald gem, is a perennial evergreen climbing foliage plant of the genus Philodendron in the Araceae family.

Emerald philodendron is a climbing species with thick, sturdy stems and aerial roots at the nodes. The leaves are long heart-shaped, 25-35 cm long and 12-18 cm wide, with an abruptly pointed tip and a deeply heart-shaped base, green, entire, and glossy. The young shoots and leaf sheaths are both green. Related superior cultivars in the same genus include:

Red Emerald philodendron: also known as Red Emerald, with dark red leaves and stems.

Red-stemmed philodendron: the petioles, leaf undersides, and young new growth are often dark red.

Fiddle-leaf philodendron: also called split-leaf philodendron, with fiddle-shaped leaves, 5-lobed, with broad ear-shaped basal lobes, narrow in the middle, and a long oval tip, dark green and glossy.

Heart-leaf philodendron: also known as sharp heart climbing philodendron or round-leaf philodendron, with green stems and leaves, and heart-shaped leaves.

Emerald philodendron and most others originate from tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, climbing and growing on tree trunks and rocks. They prefer warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. The optimal growing temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.

Emerald philodendron is mostly propagated by cuttings, and roots easily in high-temperature seasons. Generally, from April to August, cut 3-4 nodes of the stem, remove the lower leaves, and insert the cuttings into a substrate of half leaf mold and half river sand, keeping the substrate and air moist. After 2-3 weeks, they will root and can be potted.

The best potting substrate for emerald philodendron is loam rich in humus and well-draining. Generally, it can be prepared with 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part peat soil, and a small amount of river sand and base fertilizer. When planting, a pole can be placed in the center of the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it to let them climb and grow. It prefers high-temperature and humid environments, and the potting soil must be kept moist, especially in summer when it cannot lack water, and the leaves should also be frequently misted; but waterlogging in the pot must be avoided, otherwise the leaves tend to turn yellow. Generally, water once a day in spring and summer, and every 3-5 days in autumn; in winter, reduce the amount of watering, but do not let the potting soil dry out completely. During the growing season, pay attention to regular fertilizing, generally 1-2 times a month; in late autumn and winter when growth slows or stops, fertilizing should be stopped. It prefers bright light and avoids strong direct sunlight; generally, 50%-60% shading is needed during the growing season; however, it can also tolerate dark indoor environments, though prolonged weak light easily causes leggy growth, with longer internodes and weak, spindly growth, which is unfavorable for ornamental purposes.

Emerald philodendron has broad, large, deep green leaves. Grown as a climber, it can form a green rounded shape, with a neat and robust plant form, full of tropical flair. It has strong shade tolerance and is extremely suitable for indoor decorative cultivation. It is often grown in medium to large sizes, displayed in halls, meeting rooms, offices, and other places, and is extremely spectacular.

Spider Plant

Spider plant is a perennial evergreen foliage plant of the genus Chlorophytum in the Liliaceae family. Spider plant is a herbaceous perennial with clustered cylindrical fleshy fibrous roots and rhizomes. The most notable feature of the spider plant is that mature plants will from time to time produce runners, and small plantlets will grow at the tips of the runners. The scape is slender, longer than the leaves, and arching; the flowers are white, in clusters of several, sparsely scattered along the inflorescence axis. The flowering period is between spring and summer, and it can also bloom indoors in winter. Currently, horticultural varieties of spider plant, besides the pure green-leaf type, include three others: large-leaf spider plant, golden-centered spider plant, and golden-edged spider plant. It prefers warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. It has strong adaptability and is relatively drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant. It is not particular about soil, and grows best in loose sandy loam. It is not strict about light requirements; generally, it is suitable for growing under moderate light conditions, and also tolerates weak light. The optimal growing temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.

Spider plant can be propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low for division, it can be done in other seasons. For plants potted for 2-3 years, divide the dense clump into two to several clusters when repotting in spring, and pot them separately as new plants. Spider plant can also be propagated using the plantlets on the runners. During the growing season, cut off the plantlets from the runners, plant them in potting soil or water, and after the plantlets develop roots, transplant them into pots.

For potting spider plant, a mixture of equal parts leaf mold or peat soil, garden soil, and river sand with a small amount of base fertilizer is commonly used as the substrate. Repot every 2-3 years, remixing the potting soil. Its fleshy roots have well-developed water-storage tissue and strong drought resistance, but during the peak growing period from March to September, it needs a large amount of water, requiring frequent watering and misting to increase humidity; after autumn, gradually reduce watering to improve the plant's cold resistance. During the peak growing period, apply diluted liquid fertilizer twice a month. Nitrogen fertilizer should be the main type, but golden-centered and golden-edged varieties should not be given excessive nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the linear markings on the leaves will become less pronounced. Spider plant prefers semi-shaded environments; if the light at the placement location is too strong or insufficient, the leaves will easily turn pale green or yellow-green, lose vitality, and lose their ornamental value, or even wither and die; if exposed to direct sunlight and dry air, it is most likely to cause scorching of the spider plant, so it should be placed in a cool, ventilated area, and attention should be paid to maintaining environmental humidity. Spider plant is not prone to pests and diseases, but if the potting soil is waterlogged and ventilation is poor, besides causing root rot, root rot disease may also occur, and attention should be paid to spraying fungicide for prevention and control.

Spider plant, with stems and leaves like an orchid, evergreen throughout the four seasons, suspended indoors, can be called a “floral art in the air”. The stolons it produces from the leaf axils generate many small plantlets with roots, hanging down along the pot, very elegant. Spider plant is also called an indoor air “purifier”; it can absorb carbon monoxide, nitrogen peroxide, and other volatile gases, purifying the air in the room and benefiting human health. However, spider plant often tends to have withered leaf tips, affecting its appearance, so attention must be paid to prevention and control. The methods of prevention and control should start from the causes: Spider plant has more than 200 species; common ones include golden-edged, silver-edged spider plant, golden-centered spider plant, and entire-leaf spider plant, among others. Spider plant originates from South Africa, South America, and tropical regions of Asia; it prefers warm, semi-shaded, and humid conditions, and is not cold-tolerant. If water is insufficient in summer and autumn, or if winter frost is severe, the leaf tips often tend to wither. Specific prevention and control methods can be taken as follows: (1) Regularly pay attention to watering and misting, keeping the potting soil and surrounding air moist. Because it has many leaves and is suspended in the air, or placed in a ventilated area on a balcony, it needs a lot of water. Therefore, it is necessary to frequently water and mist the potting soil, leaf surfaces, and the area around the pot. Generally, in summer and autumn, water and mist 1-2 times a day in the morning and evening; in winter and spring, water once every 4-5 days; water less in winter and slightly more in spring. This way, the potting soil can be kept moist and the air humid. At the same time, the leaves of the spider plant should be promptly cleaned of dust to keep them fresh and enhance their ornamental value. (2) Place the flower pot in a semi-shaded area to prevent strong light exposure. Although spider plant needs an appropriate amount of light, it avoids direct sunlight, which can also easily cause leaf withering. (3) Spider plant is suitable for pots that are large with few plants, and prefers sandy loam with good drainage and aeration. For a medium-sized flower pot, generally planting 2-3 plants is appropriate. Too many plants means more water is needed; if the pot is small and the soil's water supply is insufficient, the leaves can also easily wither. Attention should also be paid to regularly pruning withered and dead leaves. You can also combine this with repotting every spring or autumn, moving smaller pots to larger pots, and removing excess branches and leaves.

Golden Barrel Cactus

Golden barrel cactus, also known as yellow-spined golden barrel, is the most charming type of globe cactus in the genus Echinocactus of the Cactaceae family. There are also several main varieties in cultivation, such as white-spined golden barrel, wild-spined golden barrel, short-spined golden barrel, variegated golden barrel, and crested golden barrel.

Origin and habits: Golden barrel cactus originates from the desert regions of Mexico, and is now introduced and cultivated in both southern and northern China. Golden barrel cactus prefers ample sunlight and mostly prefers fertile, well-draining sandy loam. During the hot summer period, it should be appropriately shaded to prevent the body from being scorched by strong light.

Morphological characteristics: The stem of the golden barrel cactus is spherical, the body is dark green, densely covered with yellow hard spines, and the top of the sphere is densely covered with golden-yellow wool; the flowers are yellow, borne at the top among the wool, of medium size, very beautiful and spectacular; the fruit is covered with scales and wool, and the seeds are black and smooth.

Propagation techniques: Golden barrel cactus is propagated by seed sowing and offset grafting. 1. Seed sowing method: Seeds harvested in the same year have a high germination rate. Sowing is done from May to September. After germination, 30-40 days later, when the seedling bodies are the size of a grain of rice or a mung bean, they can be transplanted or grafted onto rootstock to accelerate growth. 2. Offset grafting method: Graft seedlings cultivated for more than 3 months onto tender Hylocereus undatus to accelerate growth. When the scion grows to a certain size or the rootstock can no longer support it, it can be cut off, dried, and then planted as a cutting in a pot. In a fertile soil and well-ventilated environment, seedlings grown without grafting also grow quickly. After potting, the seedlings or grafted offsets should be placed in a semi-shaded area, avoiding direct sunlight. If the body does not shrink after 7-10 days, it has survived.

Management techniques: Golden barrel cactus prefers calcareous sandy loam, which can be prepared by mixing equal amounts of coarse sand, loam, leaf mold, and a small amount of aged wall ash. Repotting and soil replacement, along with pruning old roots, should be done once a year. In mid-March, remove the cactus from the pot, prune the old roots, being careful not to damage the main root. After pruning, place it in a ventilated area to dry for 4-5 days to let the cut surface air-dry; the new potting soil used for repotting should use fermented livestock and poultry manure as base fertilizer, mixed with coal ash, plant ash, and a small amount of animal bone meal, etc., thoroughly blended; the pot should be disinfected by sun exposure, steaming, and spraying chemicals to prevent rot of the cactus body.

Golden barrel cactus prefers ample sunlight, but in summer it should be semi-shaded. When the temperature reaches above 35°C, shade should be provided around noon to avoid strong sunlight scorching the body. Before 10 AM or after 5 PM, it can be placed in the sun to encourage more flower buds, and to avoid excessive shading that causes the body to elongate and reduce its ornamental value. The overwintering temperature should be maintained at 8-10°C, and the potting soil kept dry. If the temperature is too low, yellow spots will appear on the body. Protect from rain in summer.

Summer is the peak growing season for golden barrel cactus, and water demand increases. If there is drought, water frequently, preferably in the early morning and evening. Never water with cold water during the hot noon, as it can easily cause “chilling” and lead to disease. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, a small amount of misting to moisten the pot surface is sufficient; do not spray water on the top of the sphere and grafted areas to avoid water accumulation and rot. During the growing period, apply diluted fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc., 1-2 times about every half month, combined with watering. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed, and the concentration should be appropriate.

Golden barrel cactus is robust by nature and highly disease-resistant, but in summer, due to factors such as humidity, heat, and poor ventilation, it is susceptible to pests and diseases such as red spider mites, scale insects, and whiteflies, and prevention and control should be strengthened. For pest and disease damage such as red spider mites, scale insects, and whiteflies, prevention and control should be strengthened. For red spider mites, spray with 40% dimethoate or 90% trichlorfon at 1000-1500 times dilution. When scale insects, whiteflies, and other pests are found, manual removal is possible.

Ornamental value: Golden barrel cactus has a very long lifespan and is easy to cultivate. Adult large golden barrel cacti have abundant flowers and robust bodies, resplendent in gold and jade, with high ornamental value. Moreover, it is small in size and takes up little space, making it an ideal ornamental plant for urban home gardening.

Peace Tree (Cinnamon)

Peace tree is an elegant name for cinnamon-type plants in the genus Cinnamomum of the Lauraceae family. It is an evergreen small tree with green, smooth, fuzz-free branchlets, opposite or nearly opposite leaves, ovate-oblong, with pointed tips, thick leathery, leaves about 10 cm to 22 cm long and 5 cm to 8 cm wide, bright green on the upper surface with a metallic sheen, grayish-green to yellow-green on the underside, with three prominent veins, making it a relatively popular foliage plant.

It prefers warm, humid, and sunny environments, is relatively shade-tolerant, and likes warm, hot, frost-free, foggy, and highly humid environments. It is not tolerant of drought, severe cold, or saline-alkali conditions. For cultivation, loose, fertile, well-draining, organic-rich acidic sandy loam should be used. Its optimal growing temperature is 22°C to 30°C, and it is not tolerant of low temperatures below 5°C. It should be brought indoors before Frost's Descent and taken out after Qingming. Its light requirements are: from mid-May to mid-October, 40% to 50% shading should be provided; too strong light easily causes leaf scorching, but it can also grow well if placed in a well-lit indoor location for a long time. During the growing season, the potting soil should always be kept moist, and the leaves and surrounding environment should be frequently misted to maintain the relative air humidity at around 80%. In northern regions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate powder should be added to the irrigation water, or a small amount of edible vinegar can be dripped in to increase the acidity of the water quality, meeting its need for an acidic soil environment. For potted plants during the growing season, it is advisable to loosen the soil once a month, always keeping the root system in a well-aerated state. After the plant sprouts new leaves, apply diluted cake fertilizer water once a month. After autumn, continuously apply 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution twice to increase the plant's cold resistance. When fertilizing, avoid raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer, and heavy fertilizer; especially do not use high-concentration chemical fertilizer solutions, otherwise it can easily cause fertilizer burn to the roots, leading to yellowing and scorching of leaves and plant death.

Under conditions of poor indoor ventilation, high temperature and humidity, and inadequate light, the leaves are prone to brown spot disease, but it usually occurs mostly from April to May. The symptoms are: it mostly occurs on new leaves, starting with oval yellow-brown spots appearing on the leaf surface, which then continuously expand, and more black small dots appear within the spots on the upper leaf surface, while the underside of the spots is purple. After the entire leaf yellows, it withers and falls off. Prevention and control methods: When a small number of diseased leaves are found, promptly remove and burn them. In the early stage of the disease, spray with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. For a small number of spots on household potted plants, apply miconazole nitrate cream, which can inhibit the expansion of the spots.

Yellowing and falling of leaves may be caused by the following reasons: First, newly potted plants bought back from the south have severely damaged root systems, compounded by long-distance transportation, cold weather, and other reasons. Second, indoor temperatures below 5°C in winter cause yellowing and leaf drop due to cold damage. Third, overwatering leads to root rot, causing yellowing and leaf drop. Fourth, water quality that is alkaline causes slow yellowing of leaves. Fifth, improper fertilizing, with too much or too concentrated fertilizer, causes dehydration, shrinkage, and necrosis of nutrient fibrous roots. For plants with yellowing and falling leaves, check the root system; if parts of the roots have already rotted, cut off the rotted parts and replant with clean, fresh potting soil. Around the cut area near the roots, a ring of moist fine sand should be placed to promote wound healing and the sprouting of new roots. For branches and leaves that have already withered, cut them all off. After repotting, mist more and water less, keeping the potting soil moist. After mid-April, when the outdoor temperature is not lower than 15°C, it can be moved outdoors, and only after new leaves grow can normal fertilizing be resumed.

Zebra Dumb Cane

Zebra dumb cane, also called giant dumb cane or dumb cane, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Araceae family, with cylindrical, fleshy stems that often have white ring markings, which are traces left after leaves fall off. The leaves of zebra dumb cane are long oval, with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes scattered on both sides of the green main vein, appearing particularly beautiful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra-leaf dumb cane.

Zebra dumb cane originates from Colombia. It prefers warm and humid climates. The optimal growing temperature is 25°C to 30°C, and the indoor temperature in winter should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. The potting soil can be prepared by mixing 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam, and 1 part sand. Zebra dumb cane prefers semi-shaded environments and avoids direct sunlight, and can be cultivated indoors year-round. It is tolerant of water and moisture; a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray, so that water continuously infiltrates the potting soil through the small holes at the bottom of the pot. In winter, watering should be controlled; the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and fall off, but as long as they are not frost-damaged, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If placed indoors for the winter, growth may be weak with a tendency toward leggy growth; then it can be placed outdoors in a semi-shaded area for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors after vitality is restored. Fertilizing can be done during the growing season, depending on the growth vigor, once or twice a month, mostly with decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer, to promote lush green leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used excessively.

Its “flower” is the typical spathe and spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or does not set seeds, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically asexual, with the main methods being tissue culture and cutting. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method involves cutting old stems into 10 to 15 cm segments in spring, inserting them diagonally into sandy soil, keeping them moist, and transplanting them into pots after they develop roots and leaves. Alternatively, during the peak growing season, cut the stem into small segments with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, let them dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, then plant them directly in pots, keep them moist, and they will quickly develop roots and leaves. You can also cut leaf-bearing stem segments and insert them into a transparent glass water bottle, fix them with white rice stone used for architectural decoration, and in about half a month you can see it grow pure white, jade-like fibrous roots, allowing you to enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, care should be taken during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth, or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as zebra dumb cane, which also have certain ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and luster, tall plants, and sturdy stems, making it an ideal indoor ornamental treasure.

Maidenhair Fern

Maidenhair fern: also known as wire grass or iron-wire grass, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Adiantum in the Adiantaceae family.

Maidenhair fern is a small to medium-sized terrestrial fern, with a plant height of 10-40 cm. The rhizome is horizontal, densely covered with brown scale hairs. The petioles are slender and hard, resembling iron wire, hence the name maidenhair fern. Its ecological habits are that it prefers warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments.

Maidenhair fern is mainly propagated by division. Division is best done in spring before new buds sprout, combined with repotting. Take the plant that has filled the pot out of the pot, remove most of the old potting soil, cut the rhizome, divide into two to several clusters, and pot them separately. In addition, the spores of maidenhair fern, after maturing, scatter in warm and humid environments and reproduce and grow on their own; when they grow to a certain size, they can also be potted.

Maidenhair fern prefers loose, well-draining, fertile calcareous sandy loam. For potting, the potting soil can be made by mixing equal parts loam, leaf mold, and river sand. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and pay attention to always keeping the potting soil moist and the air humidity high. In dry seasons, water can be frequently sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity. Maidenhair fern prefers bright, diffused light and avoids direct sunlight. Too strong light causes the leaves to wither and yellow, or even die. It prefers warmth and is also cold-tolerant. The optimal growing temperature is 13-22°C, and the overwintering temperature in winter is 5°C.

Dragon Tree (Dracaena)

Dragon tree (Dracaena draco) is a species within the dragon tree genus, belonging to the Dracaena genus of the Agavaceae family.

Dragon tree was originally a wild plant in the tropical forests of Hainan Island, and after artificial domestication and cultivation, it has become a shade plant suitable for indoor display.

Morphological characteristics: Evergreen tree. Plant height can reach 10 m, slightly branched. Leaves are mostly densely borne on the flat crown, sword-shaped, 45 cm-60 cm long, 3 cm-4 cm wide, hard and upright, bright green. Panicle inflorescence, flowers white with green. Commonly seen in cultivation are stemless or short-stemmed foliage young trees.

Propagation and planting key points: Can be propagated by cuttings, layering, and sowing. For cuttings in early spring, use mature thick branches, remove the leaves, cut into 5 cm-10 cm segments, place them flat in a hotbed with bottom heat, maintain a temperature of 25°C-30°C and relatively humid air, and roots will form in about 1 month. For outdoor cuttings in summer, a shade shed is needed for shading. For sowing, seeds can be collected from larger old plants and sown in spring. The cultivation soil should be a mixed fertile soil made of leaf mold, clay loam, and sand.

Application value: Dragon tree is both a foliage plant and a flowering plant. It is suitable as background material for decorating the main podium of large conference venues, and is extremely spectacular. The leaf base, stems, and branches can be used to extract traditional Chinese medicine, which has hemostatic effects.

Broadleaf Lady Palm

[Aliases] Guanyin bamboo, palm bamboo

[Family and Genus] Palmae, Rhapis

[Origin] Southeastern, southern, and southwestern China; Japan

[Growth Habits] Prefers warm, humid, semi-shaded, and well-ventilated environments; drought-tolerant, afraid of strong sunlight; the optimal growing temperature is 25-30°C; the nighttime temperature in winter is best not lower than 5°C, but it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0°C; avoid prolonged cold wind, frost, and snow; generally, potted plants can overwinter safely indoors.

[Soil] Prefers fertile and well-draining sandy loam, and grows well in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus.

[Temperature and Environment] Prefers warm, humid, semi-shaded, and ventilated environments. Grows well in semi-shaded environments. In summer and autumn, avoid direct sunlight; preferably about 70% shading. In summer, especially avoid sun exposure, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly. In winter and spring, more light is preferable.

[Water and Fertilizer] During the peak growing period from May to September, water more to keep the soil moist; better moist than dry, but not waterlogged, otherwise root rot easily occurs. During high-temperature periods, also frequently spray water on the leaves and ground to increase air humidity. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce watering. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to promote deep, verdant leaf color. Stop fertilizing in winter.

[Pest and Disease Control] In well-ventilated environments, there are few pests and diseases. If ventilation is poor, scale insects and aphids easily occur. If only a small number occur, promptly remove them manually, pay attention to ventilation and air permeability, and promptly prune dead branches and fallen leaves.

[Economic Value] This species is a traditional superior foliage plant in China, with a compact and elegant plant form, delicate leaf shape, rich tropical charm, and the elegance of bamboo. It is suitable for potted display and appreciation in home interiors, offices, meeting rooms, entrance halls, etc.

Lacy Tree Philodendron

English name: Lacy tree philodendron

Family and Genus: Araceae, Philodendron

Scientific name: Philodendron selloum Koch

Lacy tree philodendron, originally named split-leaf philodendron (split-leaf monstera), originates from Brazil, Paraguay, and other places. It is a perennial herb. The plant height can reach 1 m, with thick, upright stems that can reach 10 cm in diameter. The stems have obvious leaf scars and wire-like aerial roots. The leaves spread out in all directions from the top of the stem, with petioles about 40-50 cm long. The leaf blade is bright and glossy, ovate-cordate, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, but generally potted ones are only about half that size. The entire leaf is deeply pinnatifid, leathery. The leaves of seedlings in the juvenile stage are thinner and triangular; as growth proceeds, the leaves gradually become larger, and the pinnate incisions become more numerous and deeper. Lacy tree philodendron prefers high-temperature and humid environments, is not strict about light requirements, is not cold-tolerant, and tolerates shade. It can be grown in pots anywhere indoors where the light is not too weak. It prefers fertile, loose, well-draining, slightly acidic soil. The winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. It is commonly propagated by cuttings. The best time is from May to September. Cut robust stems with 2-3 nodes and insert them directly into sphagnum moss or coarse sand, keeping them moist; roots will form in about 20 days. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist, especially in summer when it cannot lack water, and frequently mist the leaves. Fertilize once a month. The plant grows rapidly and needs repotting every spring. In winter, growth slows, so fertilizing should be stopped and water reduced. For home cultivation, it should be renewed every 3-4 years. Common diseases include leaf spot and scale insect damage. For leaf spot, spray with 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution for control. For scale insects, spray with 50% at 1000 times dilution to kill them. Lacy tree philodendron has a peculiar leaf form and is very shade-tolerant, suitable for indoor hall display, and particularly suitable for decorating music tea houses and hotel lounges. Related species in the same genus include red-stemmed philodendron.

Jade Plant, also known as jade tree or stonecrop, is a plant of the genus Crassula in the Crassulaceae family.

It originates from South Africa and is now cultivated in various places. It is an evergreen small shrub. The stems are cylindrical, gray-green, and jointed. The leaves are opposite, flat, fleshy, oval, entire, with slightly pointed tips and a rounded base that clasps the stem. The flowers are red. It prefers warm and dry conditions, and likes ample sunlight and ventilation. It prefers loose sandy potting soil. Avoid waterlogged soil. Propagation is mainly by cuttings. Soft branches or leaves can be used for cuttings. Before inserting, the cuttings need to be dried in the shade. They can be inserted in spring or autumn in moist yellow sand or perlite.

Jade plant cultivation and management is simple and extensive, but to achieve a full, robust plant form and full blooming as scheduled, there is indeed some work to be done. First, jade plant grows relatively fast, and needs repotting every spring, adding fertile soil, and placing it in a sunny area for care. Apply diluted fertilizer water once every 10 days to half a month, and water once every 2 to 3 days, following the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. In the heat of midsummer, jade plant is in a semi-dormant state and is afraid of strong light scorching the leaves, so shade care should be done at this time. Stop fertilizing in summer, pay attention to ventilation, and prevent leaves from turning yellow and falling off. If there is continuous heavy rain, avoid being washed by rainstorms, so as to prevent water accumulation at the roots causing root rot and death. From August to October, as autumn arrives and it turns cooler, jade plant begins to resume growth. Light should be strengthened again, shade equipment removed, and at this time fertilizing and watering are in principle the same as in spring. Before Frost's Descent, move it into a greenhouse, place it in a sunny indoor spot, stop fertilizing, and control watering, basically watering once every half month, with the amount of water being one-half of that in summer. Jade plant is not cold-tolerant in winter, and the temperature should be maintained above 7°C. Shape and prune once a year, carried out when repotting in spring or when moving into the greenhouse in late autumn, so that the plant form maintains a simple and elegant look year-round.

Jade plant has few pests and diseases, but sometimes encounters anthracnose and leaf spot damage, which can be sprayed with 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. If indoor ventilation is poor, stems and leaves are susceptible to scale insect damage. When pests are found, immediately wash them off manually. When the damage is severe, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution for control.

Jade plant leaves contain euphol; when human skin comes into contact with the sap flowing from the leaves, it causes skin redness, swelling, and pain. If it splashes into the eyes, it can also lead to blindness.

Although jade plant is not strikingly beautiful, because this succulent plant has a robust constitution, is drought-tolerant, easy to cultivate, and has full branches and leaves that remain emerald green all year round, plus its swollen stem nodes give it the posture of an ancient tree stump, potted jade plants are now relatively common on the balconies of urban and rural residences in the Jiangnan region.

Although jade plant is easy to propagate, easy to plant, and easy to manage, it is still common to see jade plants on some residents' balconies standing tall in spring, summer, and autumn, only to become wilted and colorless once winter passes, or even become “bare”. This is mainly because growers only see the easy-to-cultivate side of jade plant and ignore its fragile side. After entering severe cold, they still place it on an open balcony, letting it suffer cold wind and freezing, causing the jade plant to suffer cold damage. After cold damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the jade plant begin to show wounds as if scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally fall off. In severe cases, only the bare main stem remains.

Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering potted jade plants on balconies is very important, and the following key points should be mainly addressed:

1. Move pots indoors in time. After entering winter, move the jade plant indoors where a temperature of 7°C to 10°C can be maintained for warmth. On warmer days, at noon, the jade plant can be moved to the balcony to bathe in sunlight, and moved back indoors at night.

2. Control the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should be kept slightly dry, and fine mist should be sprayed on the leaves at appropriate times to supplement water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.

3. Move into a warm shed for insulation. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shed; if not, plastic film can also be used to cover it, but attention should be paid to the humidity inside the cover. If excessive moisture is found, promptly uncover for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.

4. If the jade plant has already suffered cold damage due to earlier mistakes in cold protection measures, do not easily discard the plant. As long as the frost-killed leaves and tender branches are removed and the plump main stem is preserved, with appropriate fertilizing in the coming spring, new branches and leaves can still sprout from the main stem. Generally, after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can develop into a perfect jade plant again.

Dracaena fragrans

Latin name: Dracaena

Dracaena fragrans leaves are broadly linear, dark green, sessile, with slightly wavy leaf margins. The leaves can reach 80 cm long. It is suitable for high-temperature and high-humidity environments. Both ample light and shade are acceptable. A dormancy temperature of 13°C is relatively suitable, and the minimum must not be lower than 5°C. It is evergreen throughout the four seasons, highly adaptable, easy to manage, slow-growing, and long-lived. It is an excellent foliage plant for both indoor and outdoor use, especially indoors.

The care methods for Dracaena fragrans are the same as for the dragon tree (Dracaena).

ZZ Plant

A foliage plant of the genus Zamioculcas in the Araceae family, native to tropical Africa. It is an evergreen perennial with underground tubers. There is no main stem above ground; adventitious buds sprout from the tubers to form large compound leaves. The leaflets are fleshy with short petiolules, firm and deep green, with a bright luster, and high ornamental value. It is suitable for growing under different light intensities and has strong shade tolerance, earning it the title of “king of shade tolerance.” It is a newly introduced high-grade indoor ornamental plant. ZZ plant has large tubers, which sprout numerous buds and form many small tubers. The compound leaves have a lifespan of more than 2-3 years and are constantly renewed by new leaves. ZZ plant seedlings do not grow fast, and can be cultivated for appreciation in small or medium pots, and are also suitable for large mixed plantings.

Ecological Habits

ZZ plant originates from the tropical (savanna) climate zone of eastern Africa with relatively low rainfall. It prefers warm, hot, slightly dry, semi-shaded environments with small annual temperature variations. It is relatively drought-tolerant, but afraid of cold, avoids strong direct sunlight, and fears heavy, sticky soil and water accumulation in the pot. If the potting soil has poor permeability, it can easily lead to tuber rot. It requires loose, fertile, well-draining soil rich in organic matter, acidic to slightly acidic. It has strong sprouting ability; after cutting off the thick compound leaves, new leaves will quickly sprout from the top of the tuber.

Propagation Techniques

Division: In April, when the outdoor temperature reaches above 18°C, remove the large ZZ plant from the pot, shake off most of the old soil, pull it apart at the weak points of the tuber connection, and apply sulfur powder or plant ash to the wounds, then pot them separately. Note not to bury too deep when planting; burying the top of the tuber 1.5-2 cm below the soil surface is sufficient. In addition, based on the characteristic that ZZ plant tubers have dormant buds, a large single tuber can be cut into small pieces with 2-3 dormant buds. After the wounds dry, first bury and plant them in slightly moist fine sand, and after the cut small tubers grow into independent plants, pot them.

Cuttings: Cuttings can use a single small leaflet, a section of leaf rachis with 2 leaflets, or a single section of leaf rachis. From the perspective of rooting effect, cuttings with leaf rachis and leaflets root faster, have a higher sprouting rate, and more easily form larger tubers. Insert a single leaf into a mixed substrate of river sand and vermiculite. After 10-14 days, a small rooted bulbous stem will form at the leaf base. After 2-3 months of cultivation, it can grow into a small plant, but under normal circumstances the seedling formation rate is not high. If using leaf rachis or leaf rachis with leaflets as cuttings, the substrate can be ordinary fine sand, or a substrate prepared by mixing peat soil, perlite, and river sand in a 3:1:1 ratio. The insertion depth of the cutting is 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length, leaving only the leaves outside the substrate. After spraying thoroughly with water, place in a shaded area, maintain an environmental temperature of 25°C-27°C, and depending on the dryness and moisture of the substrate, mist the leaves 1-2 times a day, keeping the substrate slightly moist. Never make it too wet, otherwise it will cause the cuttings to rot and lead to cutting failure. When the cuttings form a certain root system, the middle of the roots gradually expands to form small bulbous tubers, and the tubers gradually enlarge. Some of the more tender cutting leaves will wither, yellow, and die after potting due to high temperature or poor water management, but the tubers can survive. Old mature leaves and cuttings with whole petioles can also remain green and vital. A small number of tubers can sprout and grow new leaves in the same year, but the growth vigor is weak and growth is slow. The next year the tubers will grow robust new shoots and grow normally.

Cultivation Management

Temperature: The optimal growing temperature is 20-32°C. Whether potted or field-planted, small annual temperature variations are required. For productive cultivation, it is best to carry out in a temperature-controlled greenhouse. Every summer, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, plant growth is poor. Measures such as adding black shade netting and spraying water on the surrounding environment should be taken to lower the temperature, creating a suitable environment with a suitable space temperature and relatively dry conditions. In winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature above 10°C. If the room temperature is below 5°C, it easily causes the plant to suffer cold damage and seriously endangers its survival. In late autumn and early winter, when the temperature drops below 8°C, promptly move it to a well-lit indoor area. Throughout the overwintering period, the temperature should be maintained between 8°C and 10°C, which is relatively safe and reliable.

Light: ZZ plant likes light and also has strong shade tolerance. It should be provided with an environment with good sunlight but also a certain degree of shade. It avoids strong direct sunlight, and especially should avoid the scorching sun after long rain and sudden clearing in late spring and early summer, and the 5-6 hours of unobstructed strong light baking around noon in summer, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves are very easily scorched. For productive cultivation, from late spring to mid-autumn, it should be placed under a shade shed with 50-70% shading, but it should not be too dark, otherwise it will cause the newly sprouted tender leaves to become slender, the leaf color to turn yellow and listless, and the leaflets to be sparsely spaced, affecting the compact and beautiful appearance of the plant. For potted plants moved into the greenhouse in winter, supplementary lighting should be provided. Keep the potting soil on the dry side, and the plant can remain disease-free year-round. In addition, the newly sprouted pinnate compound leaves do not show obvious phototropism, and the plant shape remains good.

Water: To care well for potted ZZ plants, efforts should be made to create an environment that is both humid and on the dry side. For productive cultivation, for plants placed in the greenhouse, when the room temperature reaches above 33°C, spray the plant once a day. Because this plant has strong drought tolerance, it is best to keep the potting soil slightly moist and on the dry side, but occasionally applying excessive water and fertilizer will not cause root rot. In winter, pay attention to misting the leaves and surrounding environment to bring the relative air humidity to above 50%. After mid-autumn, reduce watering, or replace watering with misting, so that the newly sprouted tender leaves can safely pass the winter. In addition, in winter, special attention should be paid to the potting soil not being too wet; the dry side is better, otherwise under low-temperature conditions, overly wet potting soil more easily leads to root rot, or even death of the entire plant.

Soil: Due to the special climatic conditions of its place of origin, ZZ plant has developed strong drought resistance, so the basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The basic requirement for the cultivation substrate is good permeability. The cultivation substrate is mostly a mixture of peat, coarse sand, or washed coal cinders with a small amount of garden soil, with its pH adjusted to between 6 and 6.5, in a slightly acidic state. Because its tubers are large, the root system is well-developed, and the pinnate compound leaves are relatively long, during the growing season its growth should be observed in time to decide whether to repot and change the soil. Always keep the cultivation substrate well-permeable, to help create a root environment with good aeration and drainage. During the plum rain season, check frequently. If water accumulation in the pot is found, promptly repot and change the soil.

Fertilizer: ZZ plant relatively likes fertilizer. In addition to adding an appropriate amount of decomposed cake fertilizer or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer to the cultivation substrate, during the growing season, apply 2-3 times a month a mixed solution of 0.2% urea plus 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate, or apply balanced fertilizer 20-10-20 (20-20-20) at a concentration of 200-250 ppm combined with calcium nitrate. After mid-autumn, to help it pass the winter safely, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and continuously apply 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution 2-3 times to promote the hardening and filling of the young leaf rachis and newly sprouted leaves. When the temperature drops below 15°C, stop all forms of topdressing to avoid fertilizer damage to the roots under low-temperature conditions.

Pest and Disease Control

Cold damage: When the winter temperature drops below 5°C, combined with moist potting soil, it easily causes the plant's tender leaves to be damaged by cold and collapse, and in severe cases causes tuber rot, making it very difficult to recover vitality.

Prevention and control methods: For productive cultivation, during the overwintering period, the greenhouse temperature should be maintained at no less than 10°C, and the potting soil should be kept slightly dry.

Sunscald: In the hot summer, or on clear days after long rain and sudden clearing, or for potted plants that have been placed indoors for a long time and have just been moved outdoors for restorative care, direct exposure to sunlight can easily cause their plump tender leaves to be scorched, causing part of the leaves to lose green and turn white, or the entire leaf to be scorched, with the necrotic part later turning brown and black.

Brown spot disease: This disease mostly occurs on the leaves. The spots are nearly circular, gray-brown to yellow-brown, with slightly darker edges. This disease is prone to occur under conditions of high temperature and humidity and poor ventilation. Prevention and control methods: When a small number of diseased leaves are found, promptly remove and destroy them. In the early stage of the disease, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 600 times dilution or 40% chlorothalonil suspension at 500 times dilution, spraying the leaves once every 10 days, for 3-4 consecutive times, with relatively good control effect.

Prevention and control methods: After the beginning of summer, promptly move the plant to a semi-shaded environment. In late spring and early summer after long rain and sudden clearing, provide shade for potted plants early.

Scale insects: In poorly ventilated and poorly lit environments, the leaves of ZZ plant are susceptible to piercing and sucking damage by scale insects.

Prevention and control methods: For productive cultivation, during the peak hatching period of nymphs, spray with 20% buprofezin wettable powder at 1000 times dilution, with good insecticidal effect.

Radermachera

Generally refers to “Radermachera sinica” of the genus Radermachera in the Bignoniaceae family.

Radermachera sinica, also known as pepper tree or bone-setting umbrella, is a deciduous tree native to southern China, of the genus Radermachera in the Bignoniaceae family. From the collected images, “Radermachera” mainly refers to Radermachera sinica, whose scientific name is Radermachera sinica. The young branches are mucilaginous, with 1-3 times pinnate compound leaves; the leaflets are entire and petiolate. The bark is light gray with deep longitudinal fissures. The capsule is elongated, leathery, 85 cm long and about 1 cm in diameter. It is mainly distributed in Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan, and other places, and is also distributed in Bhutan. Because its leaves are verdant and smooth with a metallic luster, and it both likes light and is extremely shade-tolerant, potted young trees are high-grade foliage plants.

Radermachera sinica prefers high-temperature and humid environments and can be propagated by cuttings, sowing, layering, and other methods. Sandy loam is good for cultivation. It can take full sun or semi-shade. The optimal growing temperature is 18°C to 28°C. A pruning and shaping should be done before spring sprouting. During indoor display, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, the leaves should also be frequently misted, and it should be placed in a well-lit location.

It should be particularly noted that in winter, the greenhouse temperature should be kept no lower than 8°C, otherwise cold damage easily occurs, or even death of the entire plant; control watering, and do not water until the surface soil is dry. If the room is too dry, water can be sprayed on the plant and surrounding environment; do not apply fertilizer.

False Aralia

False aralia is an evergreen small tree or shrub of the genus Dizygotheca in the Araliaceae family. It can reach 3 m in height. The leaves are alternate, palmately compound with 7-11 leaflets, resembling slender fingers, with coarsely serrated leaf margins, arranged radially and alternately. The leaf surface is leathery, dark green, with a copper-red metallic luster on the leaves. When it grows to more than 2 m, the fine leaves will become broad leaves; this is its special characteristic. It is suitable for placement in relatively spacious meeting rooms, dining rooms, and other brighter places. It can also be used as a decoration for hotel and building entrance halls, full of southern charm. Regarding the specific measures of cultivation and management, they are described separately as follows:

1. It prefers humus-rich loam, preferably a potting soil made by mixing leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand. From April to August, apply diluted liquid fertilizer once every half month.

2. It prefers brightness and avoids sun exposure. The optimal growing temperature is about 20-28°C. With high air humidity, growth is more robust. In summer, if outdoors, 50% shading is required. Indoor temperature should generally be maintained at 20°C to 30°C. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. If below 8°C, it is susceptible to cold damage.

3. Keep the potting soil moist; avoid both dryness and waterlogging. Too dry a condition easily causes the leaf tips to wither and dry, so spray the leaves and the area around the plant frequently to maintain air humidity. In winter, watering should be reduced as much as possible, since cold and wet conditions easily lead to leaf drop.

4. For plants that grow too weakly and thinly, heavy pruning can be carried out when new leaves sprout, leaving about 10 cm at the base. If the upper branches dry up, severe pruning is also advisable to encourage the growth of branches and leaves.

5. Mostly propagated by cuttings. From May to June each year, cut one-year-old woody branches and root them in a 20°C environment; they will take root and survive in about 30 days. Seed propagation can also be used, but the seeds are hard to obtain and must be kept fresh.

6. For potted plants, repot and change the soil once every 2-3 years, and prune the branches after changing the soil. After many years of planting, if the plant ages and its vigor declines, severe pruning should be carried out in spring, followed by sufficient fertilizer to encourage new branches and leaves to sprout, making the tree shape more beautiful.

Monstera deliciosa

Monstera deliciosa, also known as Penglai banana and electric wire orchid, is an evergreen large climbing vine of the Araceae family, genus Monstera.

Origin and habits: Native to Mexico and Central America. It likes warmth, shade and moisture, avoids direct sunlight, and requires fertile soil with good drainage.

Morphological characteristics: The vines of Monstera deliciosa can reach more than 10 m in length. The stem is thick and stout; aerial roots can reach 1-2 m, grow horizontally, are slender and columnar, and brown. The leaves are heart-shaped and without holes when young, and after growing up become pinnately deeply lobed, with perforations between the veins, leathery, and drooping.

Propagation techniques: Monstera deliciosa is propagated by layering and cuttings. Layering is carried out from May to August, and after about 3 months it can be cut away from the mother plant. Cuttings are carried out from April to May; cut the scions from the tips of the stem nodes, each segment with 2-3 stem nodes, remove the aerial roots, and insert them with leaves or without leaves into a sand bed, maintaining a certain temperature and humidity; after rooting, move them into pots.

Management techniques: For potted Monstera deliciosa, leaf mold soil is best. During the growing period, water must be sufficient. When potting and repotting, leave a rim about 5-6 cm deep to make watering easier. The potting soil must be kept moist regularly, watering once every 2-3 days; in dry weather, water should also be sprayed on the leaves to keep the air humid, following the watering principle of preferring wet to dry, so as to favor the growth of branches and leaves and keep the leaves bright. In autumn and winter, the amount of watering can be gradually reduced. Excessive watering causes root rot, but the air should still remain relatively humid; spray the leaves once every 7-10 days to keep the plant and leaves fresh and evergreen. Monstera deliciosa rather likes fertilizer; to make it grow vigorously, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September. During the growing season, pay attention to shading, with semi-shade being best; avoid direct strong light, especially in midsummer it must not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched and burned, affecting the ornamental value.

For large potted plants, insert 1 wooden stick 1.3-1.5 m long into the pot and plant the Monstera deliciosa, first to prevent lodging, and second so it grows luxuriantly attached to the stake. Alternatively, cut the overly tall stems for propagation, letting the mother plant sprout new stems and new leaves again. In winter it needs to be placed indoors at above 10°C, but at least keep the temperature above 5°C, otherwise the leaves will be frostbitten and scorched, and the potting soil should preferably be on the dry side. During the growing period, Monstera deliciosa often suffers from brown spot disease and anthracnose, which can be controlled in time by spraying 50% thiophanate and 75% chlorothalonil 1000-fold solution, or 50% carbendazim 800-1000-fold solution. In summer and winter, when ventilation is poor, scale insects and noctuid larvae often occur on the back of the stems, sucking sap and eating tender leaves; the insects can be caught by hand or brushed off, and it is best to spray them with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1500-fold solution, or 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate 2000-fold solution, or 40% profenofos emulsifiable concentrate 1500-fold solution

Monstera deliciosa is a shade-tolerant foliage plant. Generally speaking, it can be kept indoors for a long time, but during the growing period it is best placed in a ventilated spot near a window indoors, to receive outdoor air and light. In the peak growing seasons of summer and autumn, if ventilation is poor, its growth will be affected, and the newly grown leaves will be relatively thin, pale and lusterless, reducing its ornamental value.

Keeping Monstera deliciosa at home has a certain air-purifying effect. It is commonly grown in small and medium pots, placed in the indoor living room, bedroom and study, and can also be grown in large pots, placed in hotels, restaurants, halls and indoors, or by garden pools and under large trees, giving quite a tropical look. The leaves can also be used as cut-flower foliage material. Monstera deliciosa has been introduced and cultivated fairly widely in our country; the beautiful, peculiar and varied Monstera deliciosa is a famous indoor potted foliage plant and is much loved. Monstera deliciosa is known for its shade tolerance and is suitable for decoration and embellishment in indoor living rooms and corridors. In the south it is mostly planted in courtyards, scattered beside park pools, streams and ditches, beside rocks and in rock crevices. The holes and notches on the leaves of Monstera deliciosa, now solid and now hollow, are novel and interesting, and the aerial roots hanging at the mouth of the pot are simple and elegant.

Guzmania

Also known as star bromeliad. A perennial epiphytic herbaceous plant. Potted plants are about 30 cm tall, and the crown spread can reach 80 cm. The leaves are arranged in a slightly loose rosette. The flower scape usually rises more than 20 cm above the leaf cluster; the flower scape, bracts and several leaves at the base of the flower scape are all red, very brilliant; between the bracts there are small yellow flowers; the flowering period is spring; although the true flowers bloom for a relatively short time, the colored flower scape and bracts last a very long time, with an ornamental period of about 2 months. It is suitable for cultivation under bright diffused light indoors, and can be placed by a bright window for year-round enjoyment. If the light is too dim, it is not easy to flower. There are 'Hongxing' Guzmania, 'Torch' Guzmania, and 'Dennis' Guzmania.

Temperature: The normal growth temperature is above 20°C during the day and above 15°C at night; when forcing flowers, the temperature is 25-30°C; the minimum wintering temperature is above 10°C.

Light: Likes bright light. Avoid direct sunlight in summer; shade about 50%, and do not shade in winter.

Moisture: Always keep water in the leaf cup and replace it once every 2 weeks; water when the surface 1 cm of the potting soil becomes dry; water with soft water or rainwater.

Air humidity: Frequently spray water on the leaves and around the plant, and foliar fertilizer can be applied by spraying.

Repotting: After flowering, if division propagation is not carried out, repot when the clump grows very dense.

Propagation: When the tiller buds at the base grow to about 10 cm or more in height, cut them off from the base, let the wounds dry slightly, and pot them in peat soil without fertilizer. Keep them slightly moist, and they can take root in about a month.

Chamaedorea seifrizii

[Aliases] Hawaii palm, Seifriz's bamboo palm, bamboo palm

[Family and genus] Arecoideae, genus Chamaedorea

[Origin] Tropical regions such as Mexico and Guatemala

[Growth habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity, is shade-tolerant, fears direct sunlight, and can tolerate short periods of low temperature of 1-2 degrees

[Soil] For potting, a loose, well-aerated, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus is suitable

[Temperature and environment] This species likes high temperature and high humidity environments. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. In winter, keeping the temperature above 10 degrees allows normal growth, and it can also tolerate short periods of low temperature of 0 degrees. It is strongly shade-tolerant and can grow for a relatively long time in indoor environments with dim light. But bright diffused light favors growth. Avoid direct strong light, otherwise the leaf color becomes pale or yellow

[Watering and fertilizing] During the growing period, the potting soil must be kept moist regularly. When the air is dry, spray the leaves frequently to raise the air humidity of the environment, which favors plant growth and can keep the leaves dark green and glossy; in late autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering and keep the potting soil moist to enhance the plant's cold resistance for wintering. In the growing season from March to October, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks to promote leaf growth and dark green leaf color

[Pest and disease control] Under conditions of high temperature and high humidity, this species may suffer from brown spot disease and downy mildew, which can be controlled by spraying carbendazim or thiophanate 1000-fold solution

[Economic value] The stems of this species resemble emerald bamboo, the branches and leaves are dense, the leaf color is dark green and glossy, and the pinnae are elegant, giving a sense of uprightness, refinement, lightness and grace, and delicate beauty. Because of its extremely strong shade tolerance, it is very suitable for courtyard landscaping and indoor potted ornamental use

Green ingot

Original name: Castanospermum australe

Other names: Australian chestnut, green ingot, pistachio

Scientific name: Castanospermum australe

Origin of the name: It is called green ingot because its seeds resemble the shape of a yuanbao, so this name was chosen for good luck.

Distribution: Native to Australia

Family and genus: One account: Fabaceae; another account: genus Castanospermum, Fabaceae

Form: A medium-sized tree, with odd-pinnate compound leaves, leaflets alternate, leaf shape lanceolate-oblong, about 8-12 cm long, entire, leathery. The pod can reach 20 cm long, and the seed (that is, the green ingot) is oval, as large as an egg, and can be roasted for eating.

Uses: Young plants of Castanospermum australe can be used as small potted plants and as indoor plants; mature plants can grow to more than 12 m and are suitable as garden ornamental plants or street trees.

Sunlight: Young plants are shade-tolerant, with about 50-70% sunlight; mature plants need sufficient sunlight

Management: Likes high temperature; the most suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees.

The ornamental focus of Castanospermum australe seedlings is the swollen basal seed ball and the buds that grow out, so it must be kept clean and glossy; when watering daily, be careful not to splash muddy water, and keep the pot surface flat.

Moisture: Suitable for planting in loose, fertile loam or sandy loam, and drainage must be good. Avoid prolonged dampness in winter.

Fertilizing: Fertilize once every 2-3 months during the growing period

Propagation: Propagated by sowing; spring and autumn are the most suitable

Cyclamen

Cyclamen: Also known as rabbit ear flower, radish begonia, etc. Scientific name Cyclamen Persicum. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the family Primulaceae, genus Cyclamen, with peculiar flower shape. The leaves grow from the top of the tuber, heart-shaped, ovate or kidney-shaped, with fine serrations on the leaf margin, the leaf surface green with white or gray mottling, the leaf back green or purple, and the petiole relatively long, reddish brown, fleshy. The flowers are solitary at the top of the flower stem, drooping, with the petals rolled upward and backward, just like rabbit ears; the flowers are white, pink, rose red, bright red, purple red, snow blue and other colors, often with dark red spots at the base; the petal margins are varied, including entire, notched, wrinkled and wavy forms.

Cyclamen is native to southern Europe, the Mediterranean coast and other places. It likes a warm, humid, cool environment with soft light. The optimum growth temperature is 15°C-20°C; it is not cold-tolerant and fears high temperatures and strong sun. It is suitable for well-drained, humus-rich, slightly acidic sandy loam.

Cyclamen is a light-loving flower, and winter and spring are also its vigorous flowering period. To make the flower buds abundant, give sufficient sunlight during the bud stage, place it in a sunny spot indoors, and apply phosphate fertilizer once every 1 week, preferably watering with a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate compound fertilizer solution (containing medium and trace elements such as zinc, boron, molybdenum, manganese, magnesium, copper, iron and sulfur), with about 150 ml per pot. At ordinary times, water once every one or two days to keep the potting soil moist; never water heavily, and water only when the potting soil is dry. But be sure not to let the potting soil become too dry, as excessive dryness will damage the root hairs and cause the upper part of the plant to wilt, and even heavy watering afterward will make it difficult to recover. When watering, the water temperature should be close to room temperature.

During the flowering period, nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied, otherwise it will cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and shorten the life of the flowers. If the leaves are too dense, they can be thinned appropriately so that nutrients are concentrated and flowering is abundant. When removing leaves or removing spent flowers, to prevent infection by soft rot, immediately spray once with 1000-fold 'carbendazim' solution.

When Cyclamen begins to bloom and continues to form flower buds, the room temperature should be kept at 15°C to 18°C, and must not be lower than 10°C. If the temperature is too high, the flowering period shortens; above 28°C the leaves turn yellow. Never place the flower pot on a radiator.

Umbrella tree

Umbrella tree, also known as Queensland umbrella tree, Queensland shade tree, Australian ivy palm, commonly called money tree, is a woody foliage plant of the family Araliaceae, genus Schefflera.

The umbrella tree is a shrub with upright stems and few branches; the young stems are green and gradually become woody; the bark is brown and smooth. The leaves are palmately compound, and the number of leaflets varies greatly with growth: 3-5 when young, 9-12 when grown, and up to 16. The leaflets are oblong, with a blunt apex and a short abrupt tip, and a blunt base; the leaf margin is wavy, leathery; when young they are densely covered with stellate short hairs, and when slightly larger they are clean and hairless; the leaves are 15-25 cm long and 5-10 cm wide, the leaf surface dark and glossy, the leaf back light green, and the petiole reddish brown. The inflorescence is umbellate, with small terminal white flowers, and the flowering period is spring, but potted plants rarely flower.

The umbrella tree is native to Australia and some small islands in the Pacific, and is also distributed in the tropical regions of southern China. It is suitable for warm, humid and well-ventilated environments, likes sun and is also shade-tolerant, and grows well in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.

The umbrella tree can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. When sowing, it is best to sow the seeds immediately after collection, as this gives a high germination rate. Cuttings can be taken in spring, summer and autumn, and generally cutting is combined with shaping; cut the branches of irregularly shaped plants from 10-15 cm above the potting soil surface, letting the mother stem sprout several branches to cultivate a good tree shape. Cut the removed semi-lignified branches into stem segments 8-10 cm long with 2-3 nodes, and insert them into a cutting bed prepared with river sand or perlite, maintaining a certain substrate humidity and air humidity, and paying attention to shading. Generally they can take root in about a month. For thick and large branches with a high degree of lignification, air layering can also be used.

For potted umbrella trees, a mixture of garden soil and leaf mold can be used as the substrate. March to October is its vigorous growing period, with a relatively large amount of growth; generally fertilize once a month, while keeping the soil moist, ensuring sufficient water, and frequently spraying the leaves to avoid dry air and leaf chlorosis and yellowing. In summer, never expose it to direct sunlight; pay attention to appropriate shading, generally 30-40% shading, so as to avoid the leaves losing their luster or being scorched and turning yellow from the blazing sun. Indoor display should be placed in a spot with a certain amount of diffused light, and attention should be paid to ventilation. In late autumn and winter, reduce the amount of watering and control the amount of fertilizing; in late autumn, foliar fertilization can be carried out by spraying 0.3-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and other phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, to promote the aging of branches and leaves and improve cold resistance in winter. Under conditions of high temperature and humidity and poor ventilation in greenhouses and indoors, anthracnose or damage by scale insects and red spiders may occur, and attention should be paid to observation and timely control.

The leaves of the umbrella tree are broad and soft, drooping, shaped like an umbrella; the branches and leaves overlap layer upon layer, the plant shape is elegant, and the posture is light yet not thin, with a strong sense of layering, so in recent years it has been widely cultivated in all provinces and regions of our country. The umbrella tree is shade-tolerant and easy to manage and maintain; it can be placed indoors continuously for a long time. It is an excellent medium-to-large foliage plant suitable for decoration in hotels, meeting halls, living rooms, corridors and passageways, and is also a quite ideal decorative plant for corners of family living rooms, studies and bedrooms.

Greater periwinkle

Scientific name: Vinca major

Aliases: trailing periwinkle, periwinkle

Family and genus: Apocynaceae, genus Vinca

Native to the Mediterranean coast, India, and tropical America. It is cultivated in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Taiwan, China. An evergreen trailing subshrub, clump-forming. The vegetative stems lie prostrate or flat on the ground. The flowering branches are upright, 30-40 cm tall. The leaves are opposite, elliptical, with an acute apex, green and glossy; the petioles on the flowering branches are short. The whole plant is hairless except for hairs on the leaf margin, petiole, calyx and the throat of the corolla. The flowers are solitary in the leaf axils of the flowering branches, the corolla salverform, blue, 5-lobed. The fruit is paired and upright. The flowering period is April-May. The cultivated variety variegated greater periwinkle Variegata has slightly smaller leaves with yellow markings.

Greater periwinkle likes warm, humid, semi-shaded and well-ventilated environments. It is highly adaptable and grows rapidly, with growth peaks every year from June to August and in October. It is not strict about light, and grows best especially in a semi-shaded environment.

Greater periwinkle is commonly propagated by cuttings and division. Propagation can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, and it is easy to survive. When taking cuttings, cut 3-4 nodes of semi-lignified stems as cuttings. Since root buds grow from the nodes, 1-2 nodes must be buried in river sand soil when cutting, and the soil should be pressed and firmed, and watered in time to keep it moist. Generally, roots and buds form in 1-2 weeks. When the plant grows to 20-30 cm, it can be transplanted for planting. Transplanting can be carried out throughout the year except in the severe cold of winter. In addition, during the growing season, densely growing clump-forming plants can be divided along the rhizome for division propagation.

Greater periwinkle cultivation requires loose, humus-rich sandy loam; for potting, a mixture of leaf mold soil, garden soil and river sand can be used as the substrate. Several plants can be planted in each pot at the same time, and pinching can be done in a timely manner, so it can quickly take shape. To promote more branching, pinching can be carried out several times during the growing season, and mounding soil at the nodes can grow more adventitious roots and promote the growth of trailing stems. Because it grows fast, during the growing period it should be watered sufficiently, and at the same time apply liquid fertilizer 1-3 times a month, to ensure rapid and fast growth of the branches and vines and dark green, glossy leaf color. It is suitable for a bright light environment. But in midsummer, avoid direct strong light to prevent scorching the leaves; appropriate shading is necessary, with a semi-shaded environment being best. Although greater periwinkle prefers warmth in growth, it is also cold-tolerant, and in winter it can tolerate low temperatures of about 0°C.

Greater periwinkle is an excellent groundcover plant material, and can be planted in large patches at forest edges or under forests. It is especially suitable for planting at building foundations and on slopes, which helps conserve soil and water.

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