What are the things to note when growing a peace lily at home?
Things to note when growing a peace lily at home
Peace lily: The peace lily is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant, divided into two types, large-leaved and small-leaved. It likes warm, humid conditions and is a semi-shade plant; it requires good ventilation and appropriate shading in summer. Watering should be done so the soil goes from moist to dry; too much water easily causes root rot. It requires a sandy soil rich in humus, loose and with good drainage.
How to grow a peace lily: growing methods and things to note
The peace lily itself carries a auspicious meaning, and because it is easy to grow, it is often kept in homes. How do you grow a peace lily? Let's take a look together at the growing methods and things to note for the peace lily.
Growing methods for the peace lily:
1. Light
The peace lily is fairly shade-tolerant, so it is suited to growing in a semi-shade environment, and direct sunlight must be avoided. According to tests, around 60% scattered light is enough to meet the peace lily's growth needs, so it can be grown year-round indoors in a spot with bright scattered light. If it is placed under strong light, the leaf surface will turn yellow and may even be directly sunburned. In northern winters, greenhouse cultivation can go without shading or with little shading; if the light is too dim for a long time, the peace lily will be hard-pressed to bloom.
2. Temperature
The peace lily likes high temperatures and is especially afraid of cold. Its most suitable growing temperature is 20-28°C. Once winter arrives it must be brought indoors. The lowest temperature it can withstand is 10°C, so attention must be paid in winter. Relatively speaking, growing conditions in the north are too poor; if the peace lily is kept at low temperatures for a long time, it will cause root rot, leaf drop or scorching, and in severe cases even death.
3. Soil
Soil is the foundation of growing. Potted peace lilies require loose soil with good drainage and aeration; heavy clay soil must not be used. Generally, a mix of leaf mold, peat soil and a small amount of perlite can be prepared as the substrate, and a small amount of organic fertilizer can be added as a base fertilizer when planting.
4. Watering
The peace lily has a fairly high demand for water and the potting soil must be kept moist at all times. However, it must not become waterlogged. Once watered too much, a large amount of water accumulates in the pot, which easily causes root rot and yellowing of the plant. In summer and during droughts, water should often be sprayed on the leaves and the ground to increase air humidity, which helps its growth. In winter, watering should be controlled, with the potting soil kept slightly moist.
5. Fertilizing
Because the peace lily grows quickly and needs a relatively large amount of fertilizer, liquid fertilizer must be applied once every 1-2 weeks during the growing season. Fertilizing should be done with thin fertilizer; do not apply concentrated or raw fertilizer, and after applying solid fertilizer, water once with clear water. It is best to use dilute fertilizer water instead of clear water for watering, so that fertilizer damage generally will not occur and the plant will grow luxuriantly.
6. Pests and diseases
This is a common problem for home-grown plants, and it can be avoided as long as care is proper. If harmed by mites, the leaves will show poor symptoms such as wilting, faded luster and yellowing; miticides can be sprayed for control, such as dicofol, hexythiazox, pyridaben and so on.
Things to note when growing a peace lily:
1. The peace lily needs relatively high growing humidity; if the air is too dry, the leaves will wilt.
2. Master the appropriate light level. Generally speaking, growing a peace lily requires at least 73% shading; in summer, 80% shading is better. If the light level is too low, the peace lily's leaves will fade in color and growth will be inhibited.
3. The peace lily is easy to grow, but its demand for magnesium is much higher than that of many other foliage plants. When magnesium supply is insufficient, the edges of the peace lily's old leaves will turn dry and yellow.
4. Controlling root rot is crucial; if the plant is infected with root rot, its root system will turn black and cause the old leaves to wither and drop, and in severe cases the plant will die.
5. Spraying gibberellic acid artificially induces the plant to bloom; different varieties bloom at different times. Note that too high a concentration of gibberellic acid will cause the plant's flowers to become deformed.
6. Choose a container of appropriate size according to the variety.
More informationGrowing methods and things to note for the peace lily
The peace lily, also known as white sail, peace lily, and spathe lily, has the effect of purifying the air and can filter benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air, with an especially high purification rate for ozone. Its leaves have a very high evaporation rate and can raise air humidity, making it a very good indoor foliage and flowering plant. The peace lily is more shade-tolerant than ordinary indoor plants and can bloom in an environment with a little light and warmth. Its flowers are also excellent decorative material for flower baskets and flower arrangements.The peace lily is 30-40 cm tall, blooms in spring and summer, and its spathe is large and conspicuous, rising above the leaves, white or slightly green, with a creamy-yellow spadix. It likes a warm, humid, semi-shade environment, avoids direct sunlight, and fears cold. It avoids heavy clay soil and likes sandy loam rich in humus. The suitable growing temperature for the peace lily is 22°C-28°C; during cultivation, 24°C-30°C from March to September and 18°C-21°C from September to March of the following year are suitable, and the winter temperature must not be lower than 14°C. When the temperature is below 10°C, plant growth is inhibited and the leaves are prone to cold damage. During storage and transport of potted peace lilies, the temperature should be controlled at 13°C-16°C and the relative humidity at 80%-90%, and it can tolerate a dark environment for 30 days.
Key points for potted peace lilies
Light and temperature
The peace lily is fairly shade-tolerant; as long as there is around 60% scattered light, its growth needs can be met, so it can be grown year-round indoors in a spot with bright scattered light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be blocked; strong direct light must be avoided, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and in severe cases sunscald will occur. However, if the light is too dim for a long time, the plant will grow weakly and be unlikely to bloom. A light intensity of 500 lux is suitable. During potting, the minimum nighttime temperature in winter should be 14°C-16°C, and the daytime temperature should be around 25°C.
Moisture
The peace lily has relatively large leaves and is quite sensitive to humidity. During potting, the potting soil should be kept moist often during the growing period, but overwatering must be avoided, otherwise root rot and yellowing of the plant easily occur. In summer and dry seasons, water should often be sprayed onto the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle sprayer, and water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to keep the air humid. When air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow and drop. In winter, watering should be controlled, with the potting soil kept slightly moist.
Fertilizing
For potting, the soil must be loose with good drainage and aeration; heavy clay soil must not be used. Generally, a mix of leaf mold, peat soil and a small amount of perlite can be prepared as the substrate, with a small amount of superphosphate and a small amount of bone meal or cake residue added as base fertilizer. In the peak growing season, apply once every 1-2 weeks a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer water, or apply "Huiyou" 20-20-20 general-purpose fertilizer, which both ensures robust plant growth and promotes continuous blooming. When winter temperatures in the north are low, fertilizing should be stopped.
Repotting
The peace lily has strong tillering ability. When repotting each year, pay attention to trimming the roots and cutting off withered leaves. Overly dense plants should be divided and then potted. Generally, before a large number of new shoots sprout in early spring each year, the plant should be repotted once; when repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new culture soil and plant it in a pot one size larger, to benefit root development.
Propagation methods for the peace lily
Division propagation
It is best done in May-June. Take the whole plant out of the pot, cut the rhizome apart from the base of the clump, ensuring each division has at least 3-4 leaves, and after separate planting place in a semi-shade spot to recover. A robustly growing plant can be divided about once every two years, generally in spring together with repotting or after autumn. Before new shoots emerge in early spring, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, divide the rhizome at the base of the clump into several divisions, each containing more than 3 stems and buds, and replant them in new culture soil. Keep as many roots as possible to help the new plants quickly produce new leaves and ensure a full plant shape.
Seed propagation
After blooming, the peace lily can produce seeds in a greenhouse through artificial pollination. After the seeds mature, they can be sown immediately after collection. The sowing temperature should be around 25°C, and they germinate 10-15 days after sowing. Low temperatures easily cause the seeds to rot and affect emergence.
Pest and disease control
Common bacterial leaf spot, brown spot and anthracnose damage the leaves and can be sprayed with 500x dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder. When root rot and stem rot occur, besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, use 800x dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder for control. For scale insects and red spider mites, use 1500x dilution of 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate for spraying and control. If harmed by mites, when the leaves show poor symptoms such as wilting, faded luster and yellowing, miticides can be sprayed for control, such as dicofol, hexythiazox, pyridaben and so on.
★Potted growing methods for the peace lily
The peace lily, also known as white sail, peace lily, and spathe lily, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous flowering plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family. The peace lily has the effect of purifying the air; it can filter benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde from the air, and it also has certain health benefits, as it can raise air humidity, prevent dryness of the nasal mucosa and reduce the chance of illness, making it a very good indoor foliage and flowering plant. It is more shade-tolerant than ordinary indoor plants and can bloom in an environment with a little light and warmth. The peace lily has emerald-green leaves and pure white spathes, very fresh and elegant. Potted plants decorating the living room or study are especially distinctive, and their flowers are also excellent material for flower baskets and flower arrangements.
The peace lily is 30 cm-40 cm tall, with no stem or a short stem. Its leaves are oblong or nearly lanceolate, with obvious midribs and petioles, dark green. It blooms in spring and summer; the spathe is large and conspicuous, rising above the leaves, white or slightly green, with a creamy-yellow spadix. It is very beautiful when blooming, and even when not blooming it is an excellent indoor potted foliage plant.
The peace lily likes a warm, humid and semi-shade environment, must not be exposed to direct sunlight, and fears cold. It avoids heavy clay soil and prefers sandy loam rich in humus. The suitable growing temperature for the peace lily is 22°C-28°C, and the winter temperature must not be lower than 14°C. When the temperature is below 10°C, plant growth is inhibited and the leaves are prone to cold damage.
Key points for potting
The peace lily is fairly shade-tolerant; as long as there is around 60% scattered light, its growth needs can be met, so it can be grown year-round indoors in a spot with bright scattered light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be blocked; strong direct light must be avoided, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and in severe cases sunscald will occur. However, if the light is too dim for a long time, the plant will grow weakly and be unlikely to bloom. A light intensity of 500 lux is suitable. During potting, the minimum nighttime temperature in winter should be 14°C-16°C, and the daytime temperature should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperatures easily cause leaf drop or scorching.
The peace lily has relatively large leaves and is quite sensitive to humidity. During potting, the potting soil should be kept moist often during the growing period, but overwatering must be avoided; if the potting soil is wet for a long time, root rot and yellowing of the plant easily occur. In summer and dry seasons, water should often be sprayed onto the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle sprayer, and water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to keep the air humid, which benefits leaf growth. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow and drop. In winter, watering should be controlled, with the potting soil kept slightly moist.
For potting, the soil must be loose with good drainage and aeration; heavy clay soil must not be used. Generally, a mix of leaf mold, peat soil and a small amount of perlite can be prepared as the substrate, with a small amount of superphosphate suitable, and additionally a small amount of bone meal or cake residue as base fertilizer. In the peak growing season, apply once every 1-2 weeks a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer water, or use 20-20-20 general-purpose fertilizer, which both benefits robust plant growth and promotes continuous blooming. When winter temperatures in the north are low, fertilizing should be stopped.
The peace lily has strong tillering ability. When repotting each year, pay attention to trimming the roots and cutting off withered leaves. Overly dense plants should be divided and then potted. Generally, before a large number of new shoots sprout in early spring each year, the plant should be repotted once; when repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new culture soil and plant it in a pot one size larger, to benefit root development and plant growth.
Propagation methods
Division propagation. A robustly growing plant can be divided about once every 2 years, generally in spring together with repotting or after autumn. Before new shoots emerge in early spring, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, divide the rhizome at the base of the clump into several divisions, each containing more than 3 stems and buds, and replant them in new culture soil. Keep as many roots as possible to help the new plants quickly produce new leaves and a full plant shape.
Seed propagation. After the seeds mature, they can be sown immediately after collection. The sowing temperature should be around 25°C, and they germinate in 10-15 days; low temperatures easily cause the seeds to rot.
★Care methods for the peace lily
Likes sun, not cold-tolerant, fairly water-loving, fairly fertilizer-loving
[January] For potted peace lilies, place them on a windowsill or balcony with ample sunlight, keep the room temperature at 15°C-18°C, and they can bloom as usual. Water immediately when the potting soil is slightly dry, once every ten days, keeping the soil moist. Be sure to avoid room temperatures that fluctuate between high and low and low-temperature dampness, which cause brown spots and mold spots on the edges of the spathe.
[February] For flowering peace lily plants, keep the placement unchanged and the room temperature at 15°C-18°C; they continue to send up flower stems from the leaf cluster and bloom. If the room temperature is around 10°C, they can overwinter safely, but it is difficult for them to send up flower stems and continue blooming. Keep the potting soil moist; if the indoor air is dry, spray water on the ground or the pot surface to increase air humidity. Flowering plants should be kept away from air-conditioning vents and radiators, to prevent the spathe from withering prematurely.
[March] Routine management of flowering peace lily plants is the same as last month. Flowering plants should be kept away from air-conditioning vents or radiators, to avoid premature wilting of the spathe. When flowering, use a soft brush for artificial pollination to increase the seed-setting rate.
[April] As temperatures rise, the peace lily blooms gradually more; water 2-3 times a week, keeping the potting soil slightly moist. Fertilize once a month, but nitrogen fertilizer must not be excessive, otherwise blooming will be affected. Prevent root rot and stem rot damage.
[May] Entering the full bloom period, potted flowering plants are still placed on a windowsill or balcony with ample sunlight, with the room temperature kept at 18°C-20°C; water 3 times a week and fertilize once a month. For seed propagation, use indoor pot sowing with peat soil as the sowing medium; after sowing, cover with a shallow layer of soil. The suitable germination temperature is 23°C-27°C, and they germinate 10-15 days after sowing. If the room temperature is too low, the seeds are prone to rot from dampness.
[June] Blooming gradually decreases; repot together with division. Take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, cut off overly long fibrous roots, and cut the rhizome apart from the base of the clump, ensuring each division has 3-4 buds. Use a mixed soil of garden soil, leaf mold and river sand for potting, and after potting place in a semi-shade spot for care.
[July] Continue division and repotting, with the method the same as last month. After the divided seedlings resume growth, keep the potting soil slightly moist. When there is direct sunlight, shade appropriately, and apply thin fertilizer once a month. Prevent scale insect damage.
[August] In the high-temperature season, besides keeping the potting soil moist, spray more water on the leaves to maintain relatively high air humidity, which is very beneficial to leaf growth. Shade during strong light, but long-term insufficient light makes it hard to form flower buds and it will not bloom.
[September] The temperature gradually cools, and the plant continues to send up flower stems from the leaf cluster and bloom. Water 2-3 times a week, keeping the potting soil slightly moist. Fertilize once a month. Prevent leaf spot and brown spot damage.
[October] At a room temperature of 15°C-18°C, the plant continues to bloom. Water 2-3 times a week, gradually control the amount of watering, and stop fertilizing, to avoid overly rapid plant growth and reduced cold resistance.
[November] For potted plants, place them on a windowsill or balcony with ample sunlight, keep the room temperature at 15°C-18°C, water once every ten days, and keep the potting soil slightly moist.
[December] For potted plants, keep the placement unchanged, keep the room temperature at 15°C-18°C, water once every ten days, cut off the yellow and withered leaves on the outer part of the plant, and gently wipe dust off the leaves with a slightly damp soft cloth, keeping the leaves clean and glossy.
★How to grow a peace lily well in northern homes
The peace lily, also known as white palm, and Spathiphyllum floribundum, is a foliage plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family. It is an excellent medium- and small-sized indoor potted flowering plant newly introduced to China in recent years. It also has a very popular name -- peace lily.
The peace lily is native to tropical America, so when growing it in northern homes, attention must be paid to creating a high-temperature, high-humidity environment for it. The peace lily's leaves have a high transpiration rate, and air humidity must be kept above 60%. In a room, a water basin can be placed under the flower pot, or an electric humidifier can be placed near the plant, so that the area around the leaves is filled with water vapor; water can also be sprayed directly around the plant and on the leaf surface, generally more than 4 times a day in hot summer. The potting soil should be kept moist often, but must not be waterlogged. The peace lily is a flower that likes high temperatures; the minimum nighttime temperature in winter should be kept at 14-16°C, and daytime around 25°C is better. Long-term low temperatures and dampness easily cause root rot and yellowing of the above-ground parts. (Author: Miao Jinsu, Sun Fengshan)
★Cultivation management and disease control of the peace lily
1. Ecological habits
The peace lily, also known as white palm, spathe lily, and peace lily, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous foliage plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family. It originates from the tropical rainforests of Colombia and is fairly adapted to a warm, humid, semi-shade environment. Its suitable growing temperature is 20°C-28°C, and its overwintering temperature is 10°C. It is a plant that likes high temperatures and has strict soil requirements; heavy clay soil must not be used, and generally loose, breathable, well-drained soil is used.
2. Propagation methods
Division propagation is mostly used, and seed propagation can also be used. Peace lily plants tiller quickly; generally a robustly growing plant can be divided after two years. When dividing, make sure each division contains more than 3 buds. For seed propagation, the seeds must be sown immediately after collection.
3. Cultivation management
Peace lily plants tiller relatively quickly, so they have a relatively large demand for fertilizer and water, and timely supply should be noted while maintaining the humidity of the surrounding environment. During the growing season, 60%-70% shading is needed, but the light must not be too dim; especially long-term low light will affect plant growth and make blooming difficult. At the same time, note that it must not be kept for a long time in a low-temperature, humid environment, to avoid root rot and yellowing leaves. When potting, an appropriate amount of farmyard manure should be added as base fertilizer. When the plant grows too densely, moderate pruning can be carried out.
4. Disease control
Peace lily (white palm, spathe lily) blight
Symptoms. The parts near the ground are affected first, and the rhizome, stem and leaves can all be damaged. Initially water-soaked spots appear, which after expanding turn brown. When humidity is high, the lesions expand rapidly, the diseased part softens and becomes wet-rotted, and a sparse white mold layer grows. When the rhizome is infected, the plant collapses; when the stem is infected, it collapses after wet rot, and the stems and leaves above the diseased part wilt or die; on the leaves, it often expands into large yellow-brown spots, seriously affecting the ornamental effect.
Transmission route and disease conditions. It overwinters in the soil as oospores. Under warm, high-humidity conditions, it spreads to plants through splashing rain and irrigation water, and after germination causes disease. Disease is severe in rainy periods, with dense planting, and where the planting site has poor drainage.
Control methods. (1) Rotate crops or use disease-free soil for planting. (2) Choose a well-drained place for planting or placing flower pots. Avoid overly dense clumps and ensure good ventilation and light transmission. (3) Promptly pull out diseased plants and burn them. Disinfect the soil before planting, and drench with 3000x dilution of 95% Lüheng No. 1 premium. (4) According to the weather forecast, before heavy rain arrives or early after rain, spray 600x dilution of 58% metalaxyl-mancozeb wettable powder or 400-500x dilution of 61% fosetyl-aluminum-mancozeb wettable powder, or 600x dilution of Shuangmeiyijing wettable powder, once every 10 days or so, and apply 2-3 times depending on the weather and the incidence of blight.
Peace lily bacterial leaf rot
Symptoms. It mainly damages the leaves. Brown rotting spots appear on the leaf margins and continuously expand inward; between the diseased and healthy parts, yellow halos appear.
Transmission route and disease conditions. The pathogenic bacteria overwinter in the soil with diseased residues. When conditions are suitable the following year, they spread through irrigation water or splashing rain, and the pathogen invades through wounds. Disease is likely when there are many consecutive rainy days, when moisture lingers for a long time, or when the potting soil is waterlogged for a long time.
Control methods. (1) Horticultural control. Choose a high, dry, well-ventilated flower nursery to cultivate peace lilies, drain promptly after rain, and strictly prevent moisture from lingering. In greenhouses, ventilate and dehumidify in a timely and moderate manner. (2) Chemical control. When the rainy season arrives, promptly spray 72% agricultural streptomycin soluble powder or 4000x dilution of Xinzhimeisu, 1000x dilution of 53.8% Kocide 2000 dry suspension, 700x dilution of 47% Kasumin wettable powder, or 600x dilution of 12% copper green emulsifiable concentrate, once every 10 days or so, for 2-3 applications. ("Hebei Agricultural Science and Technology" Author: Feng Li)
★Potted care and management of the peace lily
White palm, also known as peace lily, silver spathe lily and peace lily, etc., English names whiteflag; peace-lily, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Spathiphyllum in the Araceae family of the monocotyledon class.
White palm originates from tropical regions of the Americas such as Colombia. In 1874 it was introduced from its place of origin to Europe. In the early 20th century it began to be used for potted ornamentals, and by the 1980s it was already very popular in Europe. China began introducing and cultivating it in the late 1980s, and there was small-scale production. Because white palm is a type of flower suitable for indoor potting that can be enjoyed for its flowers when in bloom and its leaves in all four seasons, to date, flower production bases in the southern provinces and autonomous regions and major cities across the country have successively mass-propagated seedlings through tissue culture. Market sales and prices have always been promising, with relatively high prices, so it is quite favored by merchants and flower growers. Because supply is abundant, it has gradually entered countless households.
Cultivars that have now been introduced and cultivated in China include: Green Giant white palm, Perfume white palm, Magic Lamp white palm and Mauna Loa spathe white palm, etc.
1. Botanical characteristics
The white palm has a short rhizome, is 30-50 cm tall, and is mostly clump-forming. The leaves are leathery, oblong-elliptic, tapering at both ends, dark green, glossy, with obvious veins and long petioles whose bases are sheath-like; the flower stem is upright and rises above the leaf cluster; the spathe is oblong-lanceolate and upright; the spadix is ovate and spoon-shaped, persistent, white as a snow lotus, closely resembling pressed-together palms; the flowers are small and densely arranged, white, slightly fragrant, and bisexual; the berries are red. The flowering period is May-August.
2. Biological characteristics
White palm likes a warm, humid, semi-shade environment and is not cold-tolerant; it avoids direct sunlight and scorching. It is suitable for planting in sandy loam rich in humus, loose, breathable and well-drained, and avoids heavy clay.
3. Propagation
Division
When the plants in the pot are too densely clumped, during repotting in April-June, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil and diseased and weak roots, pull the rhizome apart from the base of the clump, leave 3-4 leaves per division, and replant with new culture soil, without injuring the roots, then place in a semi-shade spot to recover, so as to promote new leaves and ensure a full plant shape.
Artificial pollination
Indoor potted white palms can set seed after blooming through artificial pollination. For artificial pollination, pollination at 9-10 o'clock and 15-16 o'clock twice is suitable.
From pollination to seed maturity takes 10-12 months. During the seed growth and development stage, pay attention to ventilation and water and fertilizer management, to promote full seed setting.
Sowing
After the seeds mature, sow immediately after collection. Before sowing, remove the peel and flesh, soak the seeds in 40°C warm water for 10 hours, then sow on loose, well-drained river sand, then cover with a thin layer of soil, and after spraying or bottom-watering, cover the pot mouth with plastic film to keep the culture soil at above 80% humidity. Place indoors at 20-25°C; they sprout 15-25 days after sowing. If the room temperature is too low during this period, it will cause the seeds to rot or affect emergence.
Tissue culture
Inducing callus
Rinse young white palm leaves clean with tap water, sterilize with 70% alcohol for 1 minute, sterilize with 1% mercuric chloride for 10 minutes, then rinse 5 times with sterile water, and inoculate onto MS+24D 0.2mg/l+
BA 1.0m/l medium and culture for about 15 days, and callus can form.
Embryoid differentiation
Transfer the callus to MS+BA1.0mg/l+NAA0.1~0.1mg/l medium for subculture.
Rooting culture
Transfer the rootless shoots obtained from subculture to 1/2MS+NAA0.5mg/l medium for rooting culture.
Other
The medium pH is 5.8, and 3% sucrose and 5% agar must be added in all cases; the sucrose in 1/2MS is halved. The culture temperature is 24-28°C, the light intensity is 1500-2000ix, and the photoperiod is 10-12 hours.
Tissue culture proliferates rapidly and produces uniform plants, and is the method currently used in production. After emergence, when 1-2 true leaves have grown, they can be divided and transplanted into pots. After a period of growth, spray dilute manure fertilizer to make the seedlings grow robustly. Seed-grown seedlings need 3-4 years of cultivation before they can bloom, but after 2-3 years they can be used for indoor potted ornamentals.
4. Cultivation management
4.1 Light
Peace lilies are shade-tolerant; about 60% scattered light is enough to meet their growth needs. Therefore, they can be kept year-round indoors in a spot with bright, indirect light. In summer the light level should be 50%, and in winter it can be increased to 70%, but direct strong sunlight must be avoided. Apart from no strong direct sunlight at midday, they should receive plenty of sunlight in the morning and evening.
They are best grown in pots on indoor south- or north-facing balconies or windowsills; otherwise yellow or scorched leaves will occur, and in severe cases sunscald will appear. If kept in too dark a spot for a long time, the plant will grow poorly and will be reluctant to flower. It can grow at a light intensity of 200 lx and can flower at 500 lx. Therefore, although it is shade-tolerant, 500 lx is preferable.
To keep the plant graceful and well balanced, turn the pot once every so often so that light is received evenly and the plant does not lean toward the light source.
4.2 Temperature
The optimum growth temperature for peace lilies is 22-28°C; from March to September it is 24-30°C, and from September to March of the following year it is 18-22°C. In winter the room temperature should be kept above 14-15°C; below 10-15°C the leaf tips dry up and the plant's growth is checked.
4.3 Water
Peace lilies are fairly sensitive to humidity. During pot cultivation, the potting soil should be kept moist throughout the growing period, but overwatering and waterlogging must be avoided, otherwise root rot or yellowing and decline of the plant easily occur. In summer and when the potting soil is dry, use a fine-nozzle sprayer to spray water on the leaves so that the potting soil stays moist; a plastic flower
dish with water can be placed under the pot to increase air humidity; the higher the air humidity, the more vigorously the plant grows and blooms; keeping humidity above 50% is sufficient; when air humidity is low, new leaves are small and yellow, and in severe cases they wither, yellow and drop off. In winter, watering should be controlled, and it is best to keep the potting soil merely moist.
4.4 Fertilizing
For pot culture, a potting soil that retains water and nutrients is best. A substrate can be mixed from leaf mold, garden soil and perlite, with a small amount of superphosphate, bone meal and decomposed poultry and livestock manure added as a base fertilizer, plus extra potassium fertilizer such as plant ash to aid growth, so that the leaves stand upright and stay green and will not lodge. In the peak growing season, apply a dilute compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer solution once every 15 days to promote vigorous growth and glossy leaves; you can also apply Huayou 20-20-20 general-purpose fertilizer, which both keeps the plant vigorous and allows it to keep flowering; or spray the leaves with a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to make the leaves broad and glossy. But never apply raw fertilizer or an excessive amount; if the fertilizer strength is too high, fertilizer damage such as yellow leaves and root rot easily occurs.
4.5 Repotting
The plant has strong tillering ability, so it is best to repot in early spring each year before a large number of new shoots emerge. When repotting, trim the root system, cut off decayed and diseased roots, remove withered, diseased and pest-damaged leaves, and divide overly dense plants, then pot them up. Before potting, remove part of the old soil and add new soil. Because the leaves are relatively large and the root system is well developed, a moderately sized deep pot should be chosen so that the thick roots can spread out and grow inside the pot, favoring root development; with deep roots and lush leaves, the flowers will fill the pot.
4.6 Soilless culture
The culture substrate is made by mixing vermiculite or perlite with river sand at 1:1. The nutrient solution has a pH of 6 and is applied once every 5 days.
4.7 Water culture management
For peace lilies of medium size and vigorous growth, the planting cup is wrapped with a solid substrate or sponge. Use a garden-test formula nutrient solution at 1/5-1/3 strength, with a pH of 4.7-5.8. During the growing period, renew the nutrient solution once every 15 days. In summer, keep the plant in a suitably shaded place, avoiding direct sunlight and preferring scattered light. However, if it is shaded for a long time, flower buds are not easily formed. In winter the room temperature should be kept above 15°C; below 10°C the leaves drop or turn scorched yellow. Spray water on the leaves frequently, and keep air humidity above 50%.
5. Pest and disease control
5.1 Diseases
5.1.1 Viral disease Caused by Dasheen mosaic virus.
Control: Do not introduce virus-carrying seedlings, and strengthen quarantine; use tissue culture for propagation as much as possible, so vegetative propagation may be carried out only after the mother plant is confirmed to be virus-free; when disease occurs, promptly remove and burn diseased plants; for spraying control, use 2% formaldehyde (formalin) and 2% sodium hydroxide aqueous solution, or a solution of 164 g anhydrous or 377 g crystalline trisodium phosphate plus 1 l of water.
5.1.2 Root rot Caused by Cylindrocladium spathiphylli.
Control: Promptly cut off diseased leaves, apply Bordeaux mixture to the wounds, and remove severely diseased plants; alternatively, pull out affected plants, soak them in 1% potassium permanganate solution for 5 minutes, rinse them, place them in the sun for 15 minutes, and plant them after drying. In the early stage of disease, spray with 30% Ludeibao suspension concentrate at 400 times dilution or
14% copper ammonia complex aqueous solution at 400 times dilution, 0.5% Bordeaux mixture, 200 mg/l agricultural streptomycin or methyl thiophanate, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800—1000 times dilution, 50% Benlate powder or thiophanate-methyl at 500—1000 times dilution for spray control; you can also drench the base of diseased plants with 50% benomyl at 800 times dilution or 50% captan.
5.1.3 Phytophthora blight Caused by Phytophthora parasitica, also called Phytophthora rot.
Control: Remove diseased leaves, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and apply sufficient high-quality, fully decomposed organic fertilizer; in the early stage of disease, use 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800—1000 times dilution or 50% folpet wettable powder at 700 times dilution, 50% Tuzet wettable powder at 500 times dilution, 40% fosetyl-
aluminium wettable powder at 200 times dilution, 70% fosetyl-aluminium + mancozeb wettable powder at 500 times dilution, 58% metalaxyl + mancozeb at 400-500 times dilution, 72.2% Previcur aqueous solution at 700-800 times dilution, 64% oxadixyl + mancozeb wettable powder at 400-500 times dilution, 50% Benlate wettable powder at 1000-1500 times dilution, 80% zinc manganese naippu wettable powder at 400 times dilution for spray control. Do not use only one agent; several agents should be used in rotation.
5.1.4 Leaf rot Caused by Erwinia and Erwinia carotovora.
Control: Grow strong seedlings, transplant at the right time, and plant at a reasonable density; do not water too much, and drain promptly in the rainy season; before and after rain, spray with 72% agricultural streptomycin sulfate soluble powder at 4000 times dilution or Xinzhi streptomycin at 4000 times dilution, or 50% copper sulfate wettable powder at 500 times dilution.
5.1.5 Anthracnose Caused by Colletotrichum.
Control: Spray a mixture of 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 800 times dilution plus 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution; or spray a mixture of 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution plus 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution; you can also use 80% Dacotech wettable
powder at 500 times dilution or 65% zineb at 800 times dilution, 60% Fangmeibao, 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution, benomyl at 800 times dilution, etc. for control, spraying once about every 10 days for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
5.1.6 Leaf spot disease Caused by Acremonium, also called leaf spot.
Control: Pay attention to ventilation; when disease occurs, first remove diseased leaves and burn them in a centralized manner to reduce the primary infection source; spray or soak with 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 500 times dilution or 40% carbendazim + sulfur suspension concentrate at 500-600 times dilution, 50% mixed sulfur suspension concentrate at 500 times dilution, 65% zineb wettable powder at 500-700
times dilution; you can also spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 70% thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution, 50% benomyl at 1000-1500 times dilution, spraying once about every 10 days for 1-2 consecutive sprays.
5.1.7 Brown spot disease Caused by fungi.
Control: Improve ventilation and light penetration; when disease occurs, promptly cut off and burn diseased leaves to prevent spread; according to the severity of the disease, spray with thiophanate-methyl, carbendazim at 1000 times dilution, or 60% zineb wettable powder at 800-1000 times dilution for control.
5.1.8 Chlorosis
Control: Take corresponding measures according to soil test results; when the pH reaches 6.5-6.7, lime must not be used and physiologically acidic fertilizers should be used instead; if water culture is used, add
ferric citrate solution to the nutrient solution at a concentration of 3-4 mg/kg, adding it once every 7 days for 2-3 consecutive times; you can also use a 50 mg/kg chelated iron (edta-fe) aqueous solution, applied to the soil at 100 ml per plant; you can also spray the leaves with a 0.2% ferrous sulfate aqueous solution.
Applying a suitable amount of extra organic fertilizer can dissolve insoluble iron in the soil, making it easier for the plant to absorb and use; when disease occurs, apply alum fertilizer water or spray a 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution, spraying once every 7 days for 3-4 consecutive times; for pot culture, choose slightly acidic loam.
5.2 Insect pests
5.2.1 Scale insects
Control: When only a few occur, gently brush them off with a soft brush or remove the insects by hand, then rinse clean with water; if the nymphs have recently hatched and have not yet formed a waxy shell, spray with 40% dimethoate or omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, or 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2000-2500 times dilution for control, spraying once every 7-10 days for 1-3 consecutive sprays. Scale insects easily develop resistance to insecticides, so the use concentration must be well controlled and insecticides used in rotation.
5.2.2 Red spider mite
Control: Maintain ventilation, keep environmental humidity above 40%, and frequently spraying water on the leaves can control the reproduction of red spider mites; when only a few occur, remove severely infected leaves and rinse the leaves with water; chemical control: carry it out during the adult and nymph stages, spraying with 20% trichlorfon emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, 20% tetracypermethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 4000 times dilution for control, spraying once every 5-7 days for 2-3 consecutive sprays; rotating the agents gives better results.
For home cultivation, you can spray with 600 times dilution derris extract plus about 1% laundry detergent solution, or spray with Imidacloprid at 20000 times dilution or Actara at 10000 times dilution, Wute at 3000-5000 times dilution.
5.2.3 Aphids
Control: When only a few occur, you can crush them by hand, then rinse clean with water, and finally apply 50 times dilution tobacco water or soapy water several times in succession; in March-April when the eggs hatch, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution or 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, 20% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000-3000 times dilution for control, spraying once every 7-10 days for 3-4 consecutive sprays. (Special Economic Animals and Plants, authors: Zhou Shurong, Bao Xiufang, Guo Wenchang, Niu Shiliang, Liu Jiahe)