What should be noted when growing Boston ferns at home?
Notes on growing Boston ferns at home
Boston fern: it is a pendulous fern species that likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments and dislikes extreme heat. It can be grown indoors in bright indirect light and must not be exposed to direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves tend to turn yellow or the leaf margins dry up; however, it should not be grown in a dark place either, otherwise the leaves will drop off after a few weeks. Boston fern has strict water requirements: it should not be too wet nor too dry, and it is best to keep the potting soil constantly moist. In summer, take care to spray water 2---3 times a day; in winter, when the room temperature is low, reduce watering, and it can overwinter safely if the room temperature is kept above 8 degrees.
How to grow Boston fern: Boston fern growing methods and notes
Ferns are liked by more and more people because their leaf shapes are relatively attractive, and they have gradually become a type of plant that people grow at home. Boston fern is a fern species that has developed quite well in recent years. Growing Boston fern at home can add a touch of green and vitality to the household, and it is very good at showing the life and energy of a courtyard. At the same time, Boston fern is also a very good air-purifying plant.
How to grow Boston fern
1. Propagation: Boston fern is commonly propagated by division. In summer, cut off the small rooted Boston ferns growing from the stolons of vigorous Boston fern plants and plant them separately.
2. Light: Boston fern is generally grown indoors, in pots, in bright indirect light; it must not be exposed to direct strong sunlight, but it should not be grown in a dark place either.
3. Temperature: the suitable growing temperature for Boston fern is 15-25°C, and in winter it can overwinter safely above 10°C. Winter care for Boston fern requires heating equipment; if there is no heating facility, double-layer insulation facilities can be used.
4. Humidity: Boston fern likes high-humidity environments and is not tolerant of dryness. During care, spray water frequently on the Boston fern and its growing environment to increase humidity. The suitable humidity is around 75%-80%. If the Boston fern is too dry, the leaf margins will turn yellow and withered, or even the whole leaf will turn yellow and withered.
5. Soil: when choosing soil for Boston fern, a mixed potting soil of leaf mold, river sand and garden soil should be selected. If conditions permit, using sphagnum moss as a growing medium will produce better growth. Boston fern should be repotted once a year. For outdoor cultivation of Boston fern, about half expanded plastic artificial soil can be mixed into ordinary potting soil and stirred evenly.
6. Watering: although Boston fern is drought-tolerant, it still needs sufficient water, and Boston fern should not be watered too wet or too dry; the potting soil should be kept constantly moist. During the growing season, water should be supplied abundantly. If Boston fern is often left dry, the lower Boston fern leaves will wither and drop off. In summer, water 1-2 times a day and frequently spray water on the Boston fern leaves.
7. Fertilizing: Boston fern does not need much fertilizer. During the growing period, applying a diluted decomposed cake fertilizer once every 4 weeks is enough. It is not advisable to use quick-acting chemical fertilizers on Boston fern. When fertilizing, never let it stain the Boston fern leaves, so as not to damage the Boston fern.
8. Pests and diseases: the main diseases of Boston fern are leaf spot and damping-off, and the main pests are damage caused by caterpillars, scale insects, mealybugs and nematodes.
Boston fern growing methods and notes
1. Soil requirements
For potting, use a mixed potting soil of leaf mold, river sand and garden soil. If conditions permit, using sphagnum moss as a growing medium will produce better growth. Repot once every other year in spring.
2. Watering method
Water with the principle of keeping it moist. Boston fern has strict water requirements: it should not be too wet nor too dry, and it is best to keep the potting soil constantly moist. In summer, some wet sand can be spread on the ground around the flowerpot and some water sprayed to increase environmental humidity. In winter, when the room temperature is low, reduce watering and keep the soil slightly moist.
In summer, water once every 1-2 days, but in winter the amount of watering should be controlled. Spray water on the plant and the surrounding environment 2-3 times a day to increase air humidity. In autumn and winter, water again when the soil is half dry. If the plant wilts due to lack of water, the whole pot can be soaked in water to revive it, and the leaves should be sprayed more. If it still has not recovered its uprightness after soaking for 24 hours, you might as well cut off all the leaves to promote the growth of new leaves. The root system of Boston fern is weak and extremely sensitive, so the fertilizer concentration should not be too high, otherwise it is easily damaged. But ferns all like fertile and water-retentive soil, so the best way is to first add decomposed barnyard manure when potting, and later topdress with diluted fertilizer. When fertilizing, avoid letting the fertilizer liquid stain the leaves; if it is accidentally stained, immediately spray clean water to rinse it off. In addition to potting soil plus decomposed compost, coarse sand can be added to the growing medium to avoid it being too compacted, and remember to first put coarse gravel and small stones at the bottom of the pot as a base layer.
3. Repotting
Generally, repot once every 1 year in spring, using a potting soil mix mainly of leaf mold with a small amount of river sand added. Where conditions permit, if materials such as moss can be used as the growing substrate, the growth will be even better. In addition, Boston fern. It likes a warm environment, and the suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C; the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees. In winter, the room temperature should preferably be kept above 6°C. If the lower old leaves are found to be yellow and withered, they should be cut off promptly to keep the plant shape attractive.
Propagation of Boston fern
In early summer, the stolons growing on the plant will grow rapidly and produce small rooted plantlets. In summer, choose vigorous plants, then cut off the small rooted plantlets mentioned above and plant them separately. When dividing in combination with repotting, first invert the plant and tip it out of the flowerpot, shake off all the old soil, then cut it into several clumps and plant them separately, afterward placing them in a shady place; after about a week they can be cared for normally. When potting, the soil can be a mixed potting soil of leaf mold, river sand and garden soil, and it would be even better if sphagnum moss can be used as a growing medium.
Is Boston fern suitable for indoor growing?
As said above, Boston fern is not only non-toxic but can also purify the air, so it is very suitable for growing indoors, helping people absorb harmful gases and playing a certain role in ensuring air quality and human health. Therefore, Boston fern is especially suitable for placing in newly renovated new homes. In addition, growing Boston fern indoors can also beautify the home environment and decorate the room. The fresh green leaves look very beautiful and pleasing to the eye, making people feel the breath of spring and thus relax. Precisely because the mood is relaxed, sleep quality will also improve, so Boston fern can also improve people's sleep quality.
The key points for growing Boston fern are nothing more than light, soil, water and fertilizer, while also paying attention to some aspects of repotting and propagation of Boston fern, and then relatively good growing results can be achieved. In fact, growing Boston fern should not be difficult, after all, ferns were merely a kind of wild grass in the mountains before people grew them.
The treasure book of growing flowers at home
Flower (Flower ['flauə]; plural: Flowers), is the general term for plants grown for appreciation, a modified short shoot with reproductive function, and has many kinds.
A typical flower, on a short axis of limited growth, bears the calyx, petals, and the stamens and pistils that produce reproductive cells. A flower is composed of the corolla, calyx, receptacle and stamens and pistils, comes in all kinds of colors, and some grow very showily and are fragrant.
1. How can the vase life of cut flowers be extended?Generally, a 1/3000 aspirin aqueous solution or a 1/4000 potassium permanganate aqueous solution can be used in the flower-arranging container, or an appropriate amount of table salt, boric acid, etc. can be added; for some woody flowers such as coral bean, silver willow, peach blossom, etc., the cut end of the flower branch can be burned with fire, and after charring, cut off the wound and insert it into the vase; for lilac, peony, hydrangea, magnolia, etc., the end of the flower branch can be cut open, and small grains of sand can be inserted to prop the split open, then inserted into the vase. All of the above can extend the vase life of cut flowers.
2. How is the general potting soil used for potted flowers prepared?
General potting soil for potted flowers and trees is prepared from 3 parts leaf mold, 3 parts garden soil (the loess on the surface layer of a courtyard), 2 parts barnyard manure, and 2 parts rice husk ash. This kind of potting soil is loose in texture, has good water permeability and much nutrient, and is suitable for planting potted flowers.
3. Why do potted flowers need repotting and soil changing?
After potted flowers develop and grow, the plants keep becoming stronger and taller, and the original flowerpot is too small and the fertility in the potting soil is exhausted, so it can no longer meet the growth needs of the root system; therefore, repotting and soil changing are needed. Soil changing should be determined according to the different growth periods of different flower and tree species, generally once every two or three years.
4. What issues should be noted when dividing orchids?
First, master the timing of division, generally carried out during the dormant period after flowering. For orchids that bloom in spring, divide in late September to November or before the new buds sprout; for orchids that bloom in summer and autumn, carry it out from early to late April. Second, wash the roots and leaves before planting. After the potting soil is fully dry, gently take out the plant, remove the soil, cut off rotten roots and broken roots, wash the roots and leaves with clean water, and after drying until the orchid roots become soft, use scissors to cut apart at the pseudobulbs with large gaps, apply charcoal powder or sulfur powder to the cut (to prevent infection by pathogens), and then plant. Third, the seedling roots must be in close contact with the potting soil. When planting, face the new buds outward to facilitate growth. When potting, place the plant in the middle of the pot so that the roots are distributed evenly. Hold the seedling with one hand and fill in the potting soil with the other, shaking the flowerpot while filling so that the roots and soil are in close contact. Fourth, water thoroughly. After potting, water thoroughly and place in a wind-sheltered, slightly shady and humid place, then appropriately control the amount of water until the new buds sprout.
5. How should watering of home potted flowers and trees be managed?
First, understand the habits of different types of flowers regarding how much water they need at each stage of growth and development. Second, manage watering according to the weather at the time, whether it is cloudy or clear, the temperature and humidity levels, the size of the flower and tree plant, the type of flowerpot, and the texture and degree of dryness or moisture of the potting soil. Third, water thoroughly. When potted flowers need water, the amount of watering should be such that the soil from the surface of the pot to the bottom of the pot is uniformly moist; never let the top be wet and the bottom dry. Fourth, keep the water temperature close to the soil temperature. Arrange watering times according to the seasons: in spring and autumn before 10 a.m., in summer before 8 a.m., and in winter at 2 p.m.
6. How can bagworm moths (caseworms) that chew the leaves be controlled?
For a small number, after they form cocoons, pick off the larval cases by hand and peel out the adults to feed chickens and birds. When larvae are doing damage, spray with 1000-1500 times dilution of 90% trichlorfon crystal.
7. How can cactus scale insects on the stems and leaves of cactus, Christmas cactus, epiphyllum, and night-blooming cereus be controlled?
During the nymph hatching period, spray with 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate at 800-1000 times dilution; or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution; or 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1500 times dilution; or 50% trithion emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. For a small amount in home flower growing, an old toothbrush dipped in soap can be used to wash them off.
8. How should cactus plants be fertilized?
If the potting soil is relatively fertile, during the peak growing season of cactus plants, topdress once a month with fully fermented soybean cake liquid fertilizer (note: apply dilute fertilizer more often, each time using 20% fertilizer plus 80% water). To make the flowers more abundant and beautiful, it is best to topdress once before budding with 500 times dilution of potassium dihydrogen phosphate. When the temperature is too low or too high, as well as during the dormant period of cacti, fertilization must not be applied.
9. How can cactus plants overwinter safely?
In winter, move them indoors to protect against cold and keep warm, pay attention to controlling the amount of water; the drier the potting soil, the more cold-tolerant they are. Room temperature generally kept at
around 15°C , they can still grow, green and lovely, and some can even bloom. At home, they can be placed in a glass frame or a simple plastic shed to overwinter. If the room temperature is relatively low, cacti are in a dormant state; during dormancy they should still be given sunlight, because if they are always kept in a shady place, after the beginning of spring they will be easily scorched by suddenly encountering strong light.
10. How should watering of cactus plants be managed well?
Cactus plants are drought-tolerant, but one must never think that they require a dry environment at all times. If they are not watered reasonably, the plants will shrink and age. In the Central China region, November to March of the following year is the dormant period, and watering should be restrained; watering once about every two weeks is enough. During the growing season from April to October, water fully; the higher the temperature, the greater the amount of watering, but drainage must be good and water must not accumulate. When watering certain spherical species with a recessed top, take care not to pour water into the recess, to prevent rotting of the growing point. In addition, for some species with fine long hairs, take care not to splash water onto the long hairs, which would affect their appearance.
11. Where is the key to the survival of cactus plant cuttings?
First, the soil must be very loose; coarse sand, sawdust, etc. can be used as the cutting soil, as these materials have large gaps and are permeable to water and air, which is favorable for rooting. Second, the cut-off part used as the cutting should be dried in the shade for about 10 days, and cuttings should be taken only after a layer of callus tissue has grown on the surface of the cut. Otherwise, the cut is extremely prone to infection and rot. Third, humidity should be managed so that cuttings are taken at around 25°C, which is favorable for rooting. The cutting soil must have a certain humidity and must not be too moist, otherwise it easily causes the cut to rot.
12. How can crape myrtle be made to bloom abundantly year after year?
The habit of crape myrtle is that it likes a warm and humid climate. It likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant. It likes fertility. It is drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging. It has strong sprouting ability. To make crape myrtle bloom abundantly year after year, in addition to applying an organic mixed fertilizer once each after leaf fall every year and before flowering, the main thing is to pay attention to pruning. In addition to pruning away dead branches and diseased branches, because the flower buds of crape myrtle form on the current year's branches, after leaf fall in winter or before sprouting in spring, the one-year-old old branches can be cut off so that strong branches sprout again and bloom abundantly.
13. How is camellia propagated by cuttings?
Take cuttings from mid-to-late June to early July, when humidity is relatively high and the temperature is not too high. Select as cuttings branches of the current year that are strong, with thick green smooth leaves and internodes of 2-2.5 cm, and 10 cm long; each cutting should have 1-3 terminal leaves. For a small amount of home flower growing, mountain soil, potting soil, vermiculite, perlite and other cutting soils with strong drainage and air permeability can be used for pot cuttings. After cutting, place in a shady, ventilated place, water thoroughly, keep the bed soil constantly moist, and when dry spray the leaf surface 3-4 times a day; after three weeks they can take root.
14. When are chrysanthemums cut? How are they propagated by cuttings?
Generally, cuttings are taken in May-June. From the new shoots sprouting from the old plants of the previous year (current-year tender shoots), cut off shoot tips about 8-10 cm long with 2-4 nodes; make a flat cut 0.2 cm below the lowest node (leaf base), remove the lower half of the leaves, cut the upper leaves in half, and insert into the potting soil to a depth of about 1/3 of the total length of the cutting. After cutting, press the soil at the base of the cutting firmly, water thoroughly, and place the flowerpot in a shaded place. Afterward, spray an appropriate amount of water every morning and evening; after a week, it can be given a little morning and evening sunlight; after half a month, slightly increase the light time; after 20 days it begins to take root, and after a month apply diluted fertilizer.
15. How should spider plant be cared for? How should it be managed in winter?
Spider plant likes warm, humid and semi-shaded places and is not tolerant of drought. For home-grown spider plant, avoid sun exposure in summer and place it indoors for viewing during the day. If conditions permit, place it outdoors in a wind-sheltered place at night (but it must be ventilated). According to growth conditions, in April of spring, carry out division propagation in combination with repotting, and after repotting place it in a semi-shaded place. The soil should be loose, rich in humus and well-drained; soil that is too wet or too dry will cause the branches and leaves to turn yellow and wither. Usually, clean water can often be sprayed on the leaf surface to keep the leaves clean and moist. In winter, it should be kept indoors at around 15°C to avoid frost damage.
16. After cyclamen has bloomed, is the corm still useful? Can it be made to bloom again next year?
Strictly speaking, the corm of cyclamen can still be retained after flowering and continue to be cultivated. But the possibility of making it grow well and bloom again next year is only 50%. If you are willing to keep it, after the flowers fade in spring, withhold water until the upper part of the plant withers. Then place the corm together with the pot outdoors in a cool place and water only twice a month. In July or August, repot, then gradually increase the amount of watering, and move it to a bright place (but not in sunlight). After 4-6 weeks of care in this way, if cyclamen still does not show vigorous growth, then you will just have to give it up.
17. Is dieffenbachia poisonous? Can it be grown in water?
If you chew the stem of dieffenbachia, its sap will make you unable to speak for a period of time; apart from that it has no other toxicity. Dieffenbachia can be grown in water and can take root and maintain growth and development for quite a long time, but it is best to plant it in soil (ratio: 2 parts humus, 1 part sand or vermiculite) so that it can get a normal nutrient supply.
18. When can healthy outdoor ivy branches be cut for propagation, to be used as indoor foliage plants in winter?
After the rainy season, when the ivy branches are full of water, cut them off; each cutting should be 18-25 cm long. Wash them briefly in soapy water, remove the leaves on the lower 1/3 of the cutting (otherwise, when immersed in water, they easily make the water spoil and go bad), immerse the lower 1/3 of the cutting deeply in a bucket of water, and place in a shady place with natural humidity. Ivy water-propagated in August takes root faster than that propagated in autumn and winter.
19. What causes the leaves of indoor foliage ferns to turn yellow?
Too much sunlight, too little fertilizer, air that is too dry, and too much or too little watering can all cause fern leaves to turn yellow. Ferns like bright places, but are not suitable for growing in sunlight. During the peak growing period, apply a balanced diluted liquid fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks. Some ferns, such as Boston fern, bird's-nest fern, and maidenhair fern, need higher humidity to grow well.
20. What are the growing conditions for Boston fern? How is it grown?
Boston fern is suitable for loose garden soil rich in humus (mix: 2 parts sandy loam, 2 parts humus soil, 1 part sand or vermiculite). It grows best at a temperature of 12-17°C, in sufficient light but without sunlight. Boston fern is relatively difficult to propagate by division, but easier to root by layering with stolons.
21. How much water do ferns actually need?
Ferns like air-humid environments, while most home environments are dry. Therefore, when growing shade-loving ferns, more watering is needed on ordinary days to supplement humidity. Generally, use a fine-hole spray can to spray lukewarm water on ferns every day, which can also drive away pests. In addition, water thoroughly once a week by the soaking method to ensure that the roots at the bottom of the pot have sufficient water. The pot can also be placed on a shallow dish filled with pebbles and water, so that the bottom of the pot of the potted fern stays moist and warm.
22. Can fertilizer be made at home for growing flowers? How is fertilizer made at home?
You can collect the vegetable leaves, vegetable roots, bean shells, melon and fruit peels, fish scales, fish guts, leftover bones and scraps of chicken, duck, crab and shrimp, spoiled soybeans, peanuts, etc. left over from daily picking, add rice-washing water, soak them in a jar or earthenware jar and seal it; after fermentation and rotting, add clean water and apply. This is a very good organic fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Or dilute leftover soybean milk or milk remnants, as well as the egg white washed out of eggshells, with water and then apply them to the pot.
23. How is Acorus gramineus grown in water?
Acorus likes shade and moisture; from this point of view, water culture is better than soil planting, but when growing in water, only the roots may be immersed, not the leaves. It is best to place it among flowers in the shade, so that it receives wind and dew, and do not expose it to sunlight. When summer comes and the climate is hot, except when there are guests to view it, the water basin of Acorus gramineus should be placed among flowers in the shade all day to avoid the heat consuming nutrients.
For water culture, large old roots are best; old roots that rise above the mud surface and wind along like a dragon are the best, but they are not easy to find. Scattered small Acorus plants can be tangled into clumps and then wrapped with palm bark and placed in a water basin, but the root fibers of small Acorus plants are very short, and both clumping and wrapping are not easy; enameled wire can be used to string these Acorus gramineus together into clumps (note: do not damage their old roots), and then wind the enameled wire around them several times, so that even after being soaked in water and pressed by stones they are not easy to fall apart.