How to make homemade biological insecticides for household flower growing?

For household flower growing, if you cannot buy pesticides, you can make your own pesticides, which also have good control effects on several common pests and some diseases on flowers.

(1) Tobacco water

Take 50 g of tobacco leaves (if using tobacco stems, tobacco veins, or cigarettes, double the amount), add about 1500 g of clean water, and soak for a day and a night. During soaking, rub and knead repeatedly several times, then remove and filter. Add 0.1% neutral laundry powder to the filtrate and stir evenly before spraying. Tobacco water can control pests such as aphids, red spider mites, whiteflies, leafhoppers, thrips, stink bugs, and leaf-rolling moths. The main insecticidal component is nicotine.

(2) Pyrethrum

Pyrethrum water has a strong contact-killing effect on pests and a weak stomach-poison effect. Grind dried white-flowered pyrethrum into powder, take 50 g of the powder and add 10-20 kg of water, stir and filter, then add a small amount of neutral laundry powder, mix well, and it is ready to spray. The targets of control are basically the same as those of tobacco water.

(3) Derris water

Derris contains rotenone, which has a relatively strong stomach-poison and contact-killing effect on pests. Grind derris into powder, take 50 g of powder and add 15-35 kg of water, then add a small amount (about 0.1%) of neutral laundry powder, mix and stir evenly before spraying. It can control aphids, red spider mites, whiteflies, leafhoppers, lace bugs, tea caterpillars, inchworms, bagworms, hawk moths, silver Y moths, blister beetles, and others.

(4) Tea seed cake water

Tea seed cake contains saponin and alkaloids. Its action on pests is mainly contact-killing, with an additional stomach-poison effect. Grind tea seed cake and soak it in a small amount of boiling water for about a day and a night, then filter, add water to dilute 25-35 times, and spray. It can control pests such as aphids, planthoppers, snails, and slugs. Diluted about 100 times with water and sprayed, it also has a certain control effect on rust disease.

(5) Datura water

Take 0 g of fresh grass, cut it up, add 5 kg of water, boil for 30 minutes, filter, and spray. It can control aphids, red spider mites, armyworms, corn borers, and others. It also has a certain inhibitory effect on the germination of rust fungus spores.

(6) Castor bean water

Take 50 g of castor seeds, crush them, add 500 g of water, and soak for several hours. Separately add a small amount of neutral laundry powder, then add 4-6 kg of water, mix well, filter, and spray. It can control aphids, leafhoppers, scarab beetles, leaf beetles, and others. Dry castor leaves and stalks in the sun, grind them into powder, and apply to the soil to control underground pests such as white grubs.

(7) Garlic water

Mash purple-skinned garlic, extract the juice, add 20-25 times water, stir evenly, filter, and spray immediately. It can control aphids, red spider mites, and scale insect nymphs, as well as gray mold and root mold, and others.

(8) Scallion water

Mash the outer skin and broken leaves of scallions, add 10 times water, soak for several hours, filter, and spray. It can control aphids and soft-bodied pests, and can inhibit the spread of powdery mildew.

(9) Ginger water

Mash fresh ginger and squeeze out the juice, add about 20-25 times water, and spray. It can inhibit rot disease, sooty mold, and the germination of other pathogen spores.

(10) Sichuan pepper water

Take 1 part Sichuan pepper, add 5-10 times water and boil it down into a stock solution, filter, then add about 10 times water and spray. It can control aphids, whiteflies, leafhoppers, scale insect nymphs, borers, and others. The advantages of botanical pesticides are that they are pollution-free and harmless, can be sourced locally, are simple to make, and cost little. The shortcomings are that their efficacy is relatively low, their residual effect period is short, and the amount used is large. Because the above botanical pesticides mostly still lack standardization in preparation methods, dilution ratios, and target pests, when using them you should pay attention to continuously summing up experience through your own practice and improving and perfecting them.

Complete Guide to Household Flower Growing Basics

Complete Guide to Household Flower Growing Basics

I. Benefits of growing flowers

With their gorgeous elegance, flowers decorate nature especially beautifully and give people enjoyment of beauty. Growing flowers can enrich and regulate people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate temperament, and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and raise cultural and artistic literacy. Growing flowers can green and beautify the land of the motherland, protect and improve the environment, and purify the air, enabling people to work and study in beautiful surroundings and making life better. Growing flowers is not only for ornamental appreciation, but also has many important economic values. Flowers are an important part of Chinese herbal medicine. Honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, wintersweet, hibiscus, rhododendron, Chinese rose, lotus, and others are all common Chinese medicinal materials. Fragrant flowers are widely used in food, light industry, and other fields. For example, osmanthus can be used as a food flavoring and for brewing wine; jasmine, white orchid, bitter orange, and chloranthus can be used to scent tea; chrysanthemum can be made into high-grade foods and dishes; white orchid, jasmine, rose, wintersweet, narcissus, and others can be used to extract essences.

II. "Three suitable" points for growing flowers indoors

1. It is suitable to grow flowers with strong ability to absorb toxic substances. Some flowers can absorb certain concentrations of toxic gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen fluoride, formaldehyde, hydrogen chloride, and others. According to research, wintersweet can absorb mercury vapor; pomegranate plants can absorb lead vapor in the air; snapdragon, canna, morning glory, gladiolus, dianthus, and others can, through their leaves, convert highly toxic sulfur dioxide into non-toxic or low-toxicity sulfate compounds through oxidation; narcissus, four-o'clock, chrysanthemum, saxifrage, and others can convert nitrogen oxides into proteins in plant cells; spider plant, aloe, and snake plant can absorb large amounts of indoor pollutants such as formaldehyde, eliminating and preventing indoor air pollution.

2. It is suitable to grow flowers that can secrete bactericides. The bactericides secreted by flowers such as jasmine, lilac, honeysuckle, and morning glory can kill certain bacteria in the air, inhibit the occurrence of diphtheria, tuberculosis, dysentery pathogens, and typhoid bacteria, and keep indoor air clean and sanitary.

3. It is suitable to grow flowers with "complementary" functions. Most flowers mainly carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. At night they carry out respiration, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Cacti are just the opposite: during the day they release carbon dioxide, and at night they absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Growing flowers with "complementary" functions in one room can not only benefit both mutually, but also balance the indoor oxygen and carbon dioxide levels and keep indoor air fresh.

III. "Three avoid" points for growing flowers indoors

1. Avoid growing too many flowers that give off strong fragrance and irritating odors. For example, orchids, roses, Chinese roses, lilies, and night-blooming jasmine can all give off rich fragrance. One pot in a room fills it with fragrance, but if too many fragrant flowers are placed indoors and the scent is too strong, it will excite people's nerves; especially if people smell it for a long time in the bedroom, it can cause insomnia. The gases given off by poinsettia and evergreen are unfavorable to people; if the microparticles given off by tulips and hydrangea are contacted for too long, the skin may become allergic and itchy.

2. Avoid placing too many. At night, most flowers release carbon dioxide and absorb oxygen, "competing for air" with people. At night, most rooms are closed, and air circulation with the outside is insufficient. If too many flowers are placed indoors, the oxygen concentration indoors at night will be reduced, affecting sleep quality at night, such as chest tightness and frequent nightmares.

3. Avoid placing toxic flowers indoors. For example, oleander is toxic in its stems, leaves, and even flowers during spring, summer, and autumn. The milky white sap it secretes contains a kind of oleandrin, and accidental ingestion can cause poisoning; the bulb of narcissus contains lycorine toxin, and if children accidentally eat it, it can cause symptoms such as vomiting. The sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling, and if the sap accidentally gets into the eyes, it can harm the eyes; too much contact with mimosa can easily cause sparse eyebrows and yellowing hair, and in severe cases cause hair loss, and others.

Therefore, when growing and enjoying flowers, we should understand the relevant scientific knowledge to bring health and happiness to ourselves and our families.

IV. "Six don'ts" for household flower growing

Household flower growing is now becoming more and more common, but many flower-growing enthusiasts, because they do not grasp the essentials, grow flowers that are wilted and listless, without any vitality. Where is the problem?

First don't: being careless. Flowers, like people, are living things and need careful care. Many flower growers lack the proper careful and diligent attitude toward these beautiful lives. First, they are mentally lazy and do not like to study flower-growing knowledge, willingly remaining laymen for a long time, and their management is not methodical. Second, they are physically lazy and unwilling to spend too much time and energy on flowers. After flowers enter the home, they are left aside and neglected, enduring hunger and thirst for a long time and suffering from pests and diseases. In this way, even the best flowers will gradually wither. Therefore, lazy people cannot grow flowers well.

Second don't: loving them too much. Contrary to the above situation, some flower growers love flowers too much and their hands itch if they do not fuss with them for a moment. Some water and fertilize without any regularity, watering whenever they think of it, causing flowers to die from excessive water or fertilizer; some casually move flower pots around, moving them to several places a day, making the flowers constantly adapt to the environment and disrupting normal growth patterns. If this continues over time, it would be strange if the flowers were not tormented to death. Having a few suitable pots of flowers at home and liking them is understandable, but flowers, like people, have their own growth patterns. If you frequently disturb them when they need rest, they will naturally feel tired and grow poorly.

Third don't: chasing fame and profit. Some flower enthusiasts believe that if you grow flowers, you should grow famous flowers, because famous flowers have high ornamental value and bring large market profits. Under the control of this mentality, they spare no expense and seek out famous flowers and famous trees everywhere. As a result, often due to the lack of good maintenance conditions and management techniques, the flowers die soon after being bought, which both mistreats precious flowers and wastes money. This is a misconception. The correct approach should be to start with ordinary, lower-grade varieties and gradually explore the rules and techniques of flower growing. After reaching a certain technical level, gradually purchase more precious varieties; only then is success more likely.

Fourth don't: being unable to distinguish good from bad. Some flower growers crave size and completeness, bringing home whatever variety they see. This not only makes management more difficult, but also brings some unsuitable flowers into the home, polluting the environment and harming health. For example, flowers with toxic sap can easily cause poisoning when people contact them. The odor of some flowers affects the human nervous system and can easily cause breathing difficulty or even allergic reactions. Plants with sharp thorns also pose a certain threat to human safety, and so on. In short, household flower growing should not crave size and completeness or fail to distinguish good from bad. You should choose some varieties with smaller plant shape, beautiful appearance, and no harm to the human body.

Fifth don't: being fickle. Some flower growers are restless and impetuous, have no theme in growing flowers, and the flowers at home are changed as quickly as a revolving lantern. This is a major taboo in flower growing. First, changing varieties too quickly and growing them for too short a time is not conducive to cultivating flower plants with graceful shape and high ornamental value. Second, stopping at superficial knowledge for every kind of flower is not conducive to improving flower-growing skills, and in the end you are still a flower illiterate. Therefore, only by choosing one or two kinds of flowers and focusing on studying and cultivating them can flower growers gain something in their hearts.

Sixth don't: not having new concepts. Today, new knowledge and new technologies in the flower-growing industry emerge endlessly, but most flower growers still stick to traditional maintenance methods and are not good at using new technologies and new equipment in the use of flower containers, water and fertilizer management, and seedling cultivation, such as soilless cultivation, odorless flower fertilizers, and various flower containers. As a result, household flower growing is unhygienic, unattractive, not novel, and has relatively large side effects.

V. The knowledge of buying flowers

Do not buy the following kinds of flowers:

1. Flowers just repotted. When buying flowers, if you see that the soil in the pot is new and the stem moves when pulled upward, then this pot of flowers has definitely just been repotted not long ago and has not yet grown new roots. Such flowers are very easy to die after being bought. The reason is that some operators, in pursuit of economic benefits, directly mix undecomposed organic fertilizer into the soil. Once these fertilizers ferment, the flower roots will be burned. Sometimes, to save labor or race against time, they plant the flowers without any sorting of the roots, or even hastily pot and market flower plants whose roots are too badly damaged and cannot survive at all. If you accidentally buy such flowers, most will be difficult to keep alive.

2. Flowers planted with two or more plants together. Some operators seize on buyers' psychology of liking lush flowers and leaves, planting two or more unsatisfactory flower seedlings together in a pot, passing off inferior goods as superior, and selling them to inexperienced buyers for profit. After such flowers are bought, the branches and leaves that grow will become thinner, weaker, and yellower day by day, and the flowers will bloom smaller and smaller. The reason is insufficient nutrition, and because there are too many roots in the pot, it is easy for the soil to become compacted, and poor drainage and poor aeration may cause root rot and death. Of course, specially designed combination plantings are not included in this. Flowers without a soil ball in summer or winter: in hot summer, when the temperature is very high, flower leaves evaporate quickly, and the root system of newly potted flower plants is more or less damaged, making it difficult for them to absorb water from the pot soil in a short time. Only by bringing the original soil ball can they safely pass through this transition period; otherwise they will first wilt and then slowly die. In winter, the weather is cold and flower plants grow slowly; some even enter dormancy. At this time, if you buy flower plants without a soil ball from the market and bring them home, once they are potted and watered, they may suffer freezing damage (especially the root system), ranging from hindered plant growth to death in severe cases. Even if they are not frozen, because the soil temperature is relatively low, it is very difficult for the flower plants to grow new roots, while the old roots cannot sprout for a long time and are very likely to rot and necrose. Areas along the Yangtze River and other areas without heating in winter should pay special attention.

3. Flowers with roots but no stems or leaves. Some individual vendors dig up wild vines and miscellaneous tree roots in the mountains in autumn and winter and pass them off as flower plants for sale. Because there are no stems or leaves, it is very difficult to identify them. To keep them moist, they wrap them with moss and give them strange flower names, specifically deceiving inexperienced buyers. Some people greedily seek bargains, but after buying them, eight or nine out of ten only grow leaves and do not bloom.

4. Flowers shown in pictures as being able to bloom in multiple colors. A small number of unscrupulous vendors, in order to make profits, insert fake flowers of various colors into some plants that cannot bloom, then photograph them and make pictures, give them some foreign flower names, and deceive friends who are beginners at growing flowers. These flower vendors at street stalls move from place to place, and buyers who are fooled have a hard time finding them.

5. Flowers whose branches and leaves are tied into various shapes with thin wire. In order to sell for a good price, flower plant operators deliberately tie all the branches and leaves of evergreen trees such as pines and cypresses into various animal shapes with thin wire, then take them to the market and sell them at high prices as bonsai. Such potted flowers look good at the time, but as time passes and the plant grows, the shape will change. Moreover, tying all the branches and leaves of the plant at the same time not only affects photosynthesis, but also easily produces pests and diseases, which is very unfavorable to plant growth.

6. Cactus flowers with small frost spots on the stems or balls. In early spring, individual vendors are often seen selling cactus-type flowers at low prices. Some buyers do not examine them carefully and buy eight or ten at once, and as a result, no small number have problems. The reason is that cacti that have overwintered are very likely to suffer slight frost injury, with light green frost spots smaller than rice grains appearing on the stems and balls. On the surface there seems to be no problem, but in essence the internal tissues of the plant have already suffered major damage. If measures are not taken after buying such flowers, the spots will become larger and larger, the plant will gradually become semi-transparent, and finally the whole plant will necrose.

VI. Spring care for household potted flowers

The whole year's work depends on a good start in spring. The management and care of household potted flowers in spring is very important, and the following three aspects of work should be done well.

1. Propagate good seedlings. Chinese rose, geranium, pomegranate, winter jasmine, and others can have healthy branches cut in spring for cuttings. Rhododendron and jasmine prefer acidic soil; strong new branches 5-10 cm long can be cut, the lower leaves removed, and 3-4 top leaves retained for cuttings. For cuttings, black mountain soil, vermiculite, or yellow sand can be used as the medium. The cuttings should be sprayed moderately to maintain a certain humidity, and generally they can take root after about 1 month. Orchids, agave, and spider plants can be propagated in early spring by division or by stolons respectively.

Spring-sown herbaceous plants grown from seed, such as asparagus fern, five-color pepper, mimosa, garden balsam, scarlet sage, morning glory, and marigold types, can be sown by broadcasting or dibbling. Sowing method: first fill the pot with soil, press it slightly firm, then sow the seeds, and cover with fine soil. For watering after sowing, generally place the flower pot into a water basin and let water slowly seep in from the bottom of the pot. Most germinate 1-3 weeks after sowing; after germination, move the pot to a sunny place. After the seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be pricked out and transplanted. When transplanting, be careful not to damage the roots or break the stems.

2. Repotting and changing soil. This is a method of supplementing fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. Generally, small pots are repotted once a year, and large pots once every 3-4 years; tall plants need to be moved to larger pots. Some whose root systems are too dense or have dead or rotten roots need appropriate pruning. After repotting, generally the first watering should be thorough, then place in a cool place, and afterward water when the pot soil is seen to be dry. Generally, after new roots grow, carry out normal watering and move to a sunny place.

3. Pruning and trimming. This should be done according to different plants. Rhododendron and winter jasmine should not be pruned excessively. For pomegranate, Chinese rose, and others, dead branches, injured branches, or overly dense branches can all be cut off in early spring to promote abundant flowers and lush leaves. Jasmine should have old leaves removed when repotting to encourage more new branches to sprout. Vine and climbing plants such as Boston ivy, banks rose, wisteria, and multiflora rose can be trained so that the leaf surface receives as much sunlight as possible and grows vigorously.

Note that potted flowers in early spring should not be moved outdoors too early, so as to avoid freezing damage from cold air. Watering can increase as the temperature rises, and keep moisture evenly balanced.

VII. Summer care for household potted flowers

1. Watering. In summer, flowers have luxuriant branches and leaves and consume much water, so in summer you should water flowers sufficiently every morning and evening.

2. Build frames for shade. All potted flowers, once summer arrives, need a frame with reed curtains placed on it for shade, so that they can safely pass through the severe heat of summer.

3. Pay attention to ventilation. For indoor flowers, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, pay attention to ventilation, open the windows, and let fresh air flow into the room to prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature.

4. Maintain moisture and lower temperature. In summer, you can cover the pot soil with some grass so that sunlight does not shine directly on the pot soil, thereby lowering the temperature of the pot soil and also preventing the water in the pot soil from evaporating too quickly; you can also use a sprayer to moisten the leaves of the flowers, and at the same time wet the surroundings to lower the temperature and increase humidity. This is very beneficial to some flowers that like cool conditions.

VIII. Autumn care for household potted flowers

1. Strengthen water and fertilizer management. After the beginning of autumn, the weather gradually turns cool. For some foliage flowers, such as asparagus fern, spider plant, and sago palm, generally apply a thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to keep the leaves green and improve cold resistance; for chrysanthemum, camellia, rhododendron, and others that bloom once a year, apply liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus in time to ensure sufficient nutrients, so that they bloom more and larger; for Chinese rose, orchid tree, jasmine, and others that bloom multiple times a year, supply sufficient fertilizer and water so that they bloom continuously; for some ornamental fruit flowers, such as kumquat, finger citron, and fruiting pomegranate, apply 1-2 times a thin liquid fertilizer mainly based on phosphorus. As the temperature gradually decreases, in addition to continuing normal watering for autumn-sown herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, winter, or early spring, watering frequency should be reduced for other flowers, so that the pot soil is not watered unless dry, in order to avoid excessive water and fertilizer causing excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves and affecting flower bud differentiation and freezing damage.

2. Timely autumn sowing and autumn cuttings. In autumn, promptly harvest mature flower plant seeds and promptly sow tulips, gloxinia, snapdragon, and others. Especially for seeds that easily lose germination capacity, sow them promptly in autumn, and combine with pruning to take cuttings of flower plants. For example, cuttings of Chinese rose, rose, and multiflora rose have a relatively high survival rate.

IX. Winter care for household potted flowers

Different kinds of flowers each have different growth habits, and different management measures should be taken to ensure they safely overwinter.

1. Overwintering of deciduous woody flowers: most deciduous woody flowers originate in temperate regions. Common ones include pomegranate, honeysuckle, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, and winter jasmine. They are generally dormant in winter, so a room temperature of about 5°C is sufficient. If there is a balcony or small courtyard, cold-hardy potted Chinese rose, ornamental peach, pomegranate, honeysuckle, and others can be placed together in a wind-sheltered spot on the balcony or in a corner of the courtyard, wrapped and covered well with plastic film, and they can safely overwinter.

2. Overwintering of evergreen woody flowers: such as oleander, kumquat, and osmanthus, which are in semi-dormancy, the temperature should generally be kept above 0°C, and they can safely pass the severe winter. For orchid tree, jasmine, hibiscus, and gardenia, they should be placed in places with sufficient sunlight. Indoor temperature should be maintained at about 15°C. If the temperature is too low, it will cause the flowers to die.

3. Overwintering of annual and biennial herbaceous flowers: such as fairy primrose, coleus, and calceolaria, keeping room temperature between 5°C and 15°C allows normal growth. For perennial herbaceous flowers such as asparagus fern, garden balsam, geranium, and wax begonia, maintaining sufficient sunlight and a room temperature of 10°C-20°C allows good growth. For herbaceous flowers such as clivia and oncidium that are dormant in winter, maintaining a room temperature of about 5°C and giving an appropriate amount of light is sufficient, with no more than 8-10 hours of light per day, while strengthening fertilizer and water management; after two months they can bloom fully.

X. Several small tips for growing flowers

1. How to judge whether potted flowers lack water

(1) Tapping method: gently tap the upper-middle wall of the flower pot with the knuckle of a finger. If a relatively clear sound is produced, it indicates that the pot soil is already dry and needs immediate watering; if a dull, muddy sound is produced, it indicates that the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.

(2) Visual method: observe with the eyes whether the color of the surface of the pot soil has changed. If the color becomes lighter or appears light grayish white, it indicates that the pot soil is already dry and needs watering; if the color becomes darker or appears dark brown, it indicates that the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.

(3) Finger method: gently insert a finger about 2 cm deep into the pot soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry or rough and hard, it indicates that the pot soil is already dry and needs immediate watering; if it feels slightly moist, fine, and soft, it indicates that the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped.

(4) Pinching and twisting method: pinch and twist a bit of the pot soil with the fingers. If the soil becomes powdery, it indicates that the pot soil is already dry and should be watered immediately; if the soil forms flakes or aggregates, it indicates that the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily skipped. The above methods are all based on experience; they can only tell people the approximate condition of whether the pot soil is dry or wet. If you need to know the degree of dryness and wetness of the pot soil accurately, you can buy a soil moisture meter, insert it into the soil, and then see words such as "dry" or "moist" appear on the scale, so you can know exactly when to water.

2. What special points are there about water for watering flowers

The best water for watering flowers is neutral or slightly acidic river water, pond water, or rainwater. Rainwater is best for watering flowers, because rainwater contains more natural minerals. Next is river water and pond water. As the flower proverb says: "River water is fertile and pond water is strong; flowers are abundant, leaves lush, and blossoms fragrant." Especially green pond water has more nutrients and is relatively ideal for watering flowers. In cities, tap water is mostly used for watering flowers. However, tap water contains relatively high levels of bleaching powder and chemicals, so when using it to water flowers, it should be stored for one or two days first. In addition, if you put a few slices of vitamin C in tap water, it can eliminate chlorine in the water. Generally, add one slice per basin of water, let it stand for half a day, and then it can be used to water flowers.

As flower proverbs say: "When southern flowers move north, add alum when watering"; "When growing southern flowers at home in the north, fish tank water is better for watering"; "Fish water is fertile and rice water is strong; they are most suitable for watering potted flowers." Whether in cold winter or midsummer, do not water flowers with cold water. When the temperature is below 10°C, you can appropriately add some hot water to the water, trying to make the water temperature close to the soil temperature and create a microclimate suitable for flower growth.

3. Homemade fertilizers

In daily life, many waste materials can be used to make homemade fertilizers.

(1) Soaked liquid fertilizer: use a small vat (or small jar) and put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells, and moldy foods (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder, etc.), add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly. After high-temperature fermentation and decomposition, it can be used. When using, take the clear liquid on top and dilute it with water before trial use. The above waste materials can also be mixed with some old potting soil, add some water, put into a large plastic bag, tie tightly, and leave for a period of time; use after fermentation.

(2) Waste composting: choose a suitable place and dig a soil pit 60-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, and put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock viscera, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste, and crushed bones into the pit. Sprinkle some insecticide, cover with a layer of about 10 cm thick garden soil, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost in autumn and winter. After spring warming and decomposition without foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as base fertilizer; it can also be sieved while wet with a 4 mm sieve and rubbed into granules, with the fine part used as topdressing and the coarse part as base fertilizer. When composting, you can add some orange peel or diluted rice vinegar to reduce the odor.

4. Skillful fertilizing for household flowers

(1) Timely fertilizing. So-called timely fertilizing means applying fertilizer when flowers need it. When flower leaves are found to become lighter or yellow and plant growth is thin and weak, this is the most suitable period for fertilizing. In addition, when flower seedlings sprout leaves and branches unfold leaves, topdressing should be applied to meet the fertilizer demand for rapid seedling growth. Different growth stages of flowers have different fertilizer needs. The type and amount of fertilizer also differ. For example, applying more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage can promote seedling growth; applying phosphorus fertilizer at the bud stage can promote larger, more vivid flowers and a longer flowering period.

(2) Appropriate amount of fertilizing. Fertilizing potted flowers should achieve "eat small meals often," that is, fertilize frequently but with a small amount each time. Generally, apply a thin fertilizer solution once every 7-10 days, and once every 15-20 days after the "beginning of autumn." As flower plants gradually grow, the fertilization concentration gradually increases. For example, the application concentration of urea gradually increases from 0.2% in the earlier period to 1.0%; phosphorus and potassium fertilizer increases from 1.0% to 3.0-4.0%.

(3) Master fertilizing according to the season. In spring and summer, flowers grow quickly and vigorously, so a suitable amount of more fertilizer can be applied. After autumn begins, the temperature gradually decreases and flower growth weakens, so less fertilizer should be applied. From late August to early September, fertilization should be stopped to prevent a second growth peak; otherwise it is easy for flower tissue cells to become tender and make overwintering difficult. For overwintering flowers, fertilization should be stopped in winter when they are dormant.

(4) Fertilizing should take temperature into account. Potted flowers should not be fertilized around noon at high temperatures or on rainy days. Fertilizing at these times easily damages roots; it is best to fertilize in the evening. After autumn and in winter, when the temperature is low, flowers grow slowly and generally are not fertilized; in summer, when the temperature is high, flowers grow vigorously and more fertilizer should be applied. When the temperature is high, the concentration of topdressing should be low and the amount should be small; when using thin fertilizer solution for topdressing, apply it more times.

(5) Mixed application of pesticide and fertilizer. If pests or diseases occur when fertilizing, an appropriate amount of pesticide can be added to the fertilizer solution, which can achieve the dual effect of fertilizing and preventing pests and diseases.

XI. Points to note

1. Why household flowers may die

(1) Too much fertilizer. Some people love flowers eagerly and, considering that potted flowers consume many nutrients during the flowering period, apply large amounts of chemical fertilizer, causing excessive concentration. In mild cases this affects the absorption of water by root hairs; in severe cases it causes plant death.

(2) Too much undecomposed organic fertilizer applied. Because organic fertilizer has large amounts of microbial activity when decomposing in the soil, it causes soil oxygen deficiency, and the roots suffocate and die. On the other hand, organic fertilizer fermentation produces alcohol, lactic acid, and other substances that are toxic to the root system, and fermentation releases a large amount of heat, raising the temperature and causing "root burning."

(3) No place for growing flowers. People often place potted flowers in enclosed balconies facing east or west. In this way, due to the radiant heat of the sun, the air temperature inside the balcony rises sharply, forming a hot, dry environment. Hot, dry, and unventilated conditions also easily lead to red spider mite damage, accelerating the death of flowers.

(4) Overwintered flowers suddenly taken out of the room. For flowers overwintered indoors, the leaves that grow are semi-shade leaves or shade leaves. If suddenly taken outdoors in early spring, shade leaves cannot adapt, and tender leaves and buds are easily sunburned. In addition, the large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors can easily cause fatal damage to flowers.

(5) Lack of sunlight. Some people, for convenience of appreciation, place flowers on indoor tables far from sunlight, causing their photosynthesis to be inhibited. The organic nutrients in the flower body can only be consumed and cannot be replenished in time, reducing the flowers' resistance and causing the plants to weaken and die. Watering too much and too frequently is also a cause of plant death.

2. Harmful flower plants

(1) Flowers not suitable for long-term placement indoors: pine and cypress plants, if placed indoors in relatively large numbers, give off a relatively strong pine resin smell, affecting people's appetite and making pregnant women feel nauseated; geranium can cause allergic reactions in some people; tulip flowers contain toxic alkaloids, and after long contact they can make people dizzy and cause hair loss; night-blooming jasmine stops photosynthesis at night and discharges a large amount of waste gas, which can make patients with high blood pressure and heart disease feel depressed; if Syringa oblata is placed indoors for a long time, the peculiar smell it gives off can cause asthma and restlessness in some people; the odor given off by elderberry can also make people nauseated and dizzy. Therefore, the above flowers should not be placed indoors for too long.

(2) Toxic flowers: yellow rhododendron contains toxins in both the plant and flowers; accidental ingestion will cause poisoning. Poinsettia is toxic throughout the plant; its white sap can irritate the skin and cause redness and swelling, and accidental ingestion of stems and leaves can risk poisoning and death. Oleander: branches, leaves, and bark all contain toxins; accidental ingestion of even a few grams of dry matter can cause poisoning. The pencil tree belongs to succulent plants; the white sap flowing out after its stem is broken can cause skin redness and swelling, and if it enters the eyes it can cause blindness. Lantana: flowers and leaves are toxic; accidental ingestion can cause diarrhea and fever. Narcissus: the bulb contains lycorine; accidental ingestion can cause enteritis and vomiting, and the sap of flowers and leaves can cause skin redness and swelling. Lycoris: the bulb contains toxic substances such as lycorine; after human skin contacts lycorine, it can cause redness, swelling, and itching. Inhaling lycorine into the respiratory tract can cause nosebleeds; accidental ingestion causes vomiting, diarrhea, cold hands and feet, and shock, and in severe cases death due to central nervous system paralysis. Mimosa: the body contains mimosine; excessive contact can cause hair loss and sparse eyebrows. Crown of thorns and milkbush: the white latex in the stems is toxic, and neither should enter the eyes. Dieffenbachia: flowers and leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine; accidental ingestion can cause swelling and pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus, and stomach and intestines, and may even damage the vocal cords and make a person mute. Cactus plants: the spines contain toxic juice; after the human body is pricked, it easily causes allergic symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, pain, and itching. Coral bean: the whole plant is toxic, and children should be educated not to eat its red fruits.

   3  How to handle rot in cactus plants

When the stems and leaves of potted cactus plants turn from green to gray, the edges turn yellow, the base becomes soft, and even the roots and stems rot, the general reason is excessive watering or, after the moldy rainy season, placing cactus plants in dark, damp, poorly ventilated places. This causes the pot soil to become saturated with water and severely oxygen-deficient, preventing the normal activity of aerobic microorganisms such as ammonifying bacteria, nitrifying bacteria, and sulfur bacteria that decompose organic matter in the soil, so that organic matter in the soil cannot be effectively decomposed. As a result, cactus plants show symptoms such as yellowing, wilting, and softening because they cannot obtain various mineral nutrients from the soil. People without cultivation experience often mistakenly think it is caused by lack of water in the plants and therefore water continuously, thus causing root rot, stem rot, and even death. When the soil is too wet and too acidic and the above situation occurs, effective measures must be taken to rescue them. In particular, when the weather suddenly clears after long rain, cactus plants should not immediately be placed under the scorching sun. They should be placed in a cool, ventilated place for 1-2 days before receiving sunlight, allowing them to recover slowly. If exposed to the sun rashly, because the root system of the plant body has poor water absorption capacity, even though the pot soil is relatively wet, the stems and leaves will still wilt.

If root rot or stem rot occurs, repot and change the soil, cut off the rotten roots, disinfect with slaked lime powder (such as powder from old wall lime), dry, and repot again. If the roots are good and only a small amount of the stem has rotted, a surgical method can be used: use a disinfected sharp knife to completely cut off the rotten part, then apply slaked lime to make the cut dry quickly, and the stem will no longer rot.

While carrying out technical treatment, part of the pot soil can be dug out and placed on a ventilated windowsill or balcony to allow as much ventilation as possible. Because the pot soil is ventilated and dry, the normal growth of cactus plants can be restored as quickly as possible.

Complete Household Flower Growing Information Guide