How to control the amount of water when watering potted bonsai plants?

The process of plant growth is that the roots absorb water and the nutrients in the water, which are then transported through the trunk and branches to the leaves and evaporated away. The leaf stomata absorb carbon monoxide and the ultraviolet rays in sunlight, and through circulation these are made into the nutrients needed for growth and development, so watering bonsai is very important. In many years of practice, the author has summed up a few points of experience:

Water according to the situation, and master the amount of water.

Look at the size, depth and shallowness of the pot: water less in a large pot, more in a small pot, less in a deep pot, more in a shallow pot;

Look at the material of the pot: water more in a clay pot, less in a ceramic pot, and even less in a porcelain pot;

Look at the soil: water less in clay soil, more in sandy soil;

Look at the tree species: water more for broadleaf trees, less for conifers, more for those growing well, less for those growing poorly.

Look at the location: water more for those facing the sun and exposed to sunlight, less for those in the shade with little sunlight; water more for those in high positions with strong wind, less for those in low positions with little wind, water more when dry wind blows, less when the air humidity is high.

Water according to the time, and water quality is very key.

To tell whether a bonsai needs watering, tap the pot lightly with your finger: if it makes a sound, water it; if the sound is dull, do not water. Also, the water temperature should match the local air temperature. Too high will scald the roots, too low will freeze the roots. In general, in spring and autumn the temperature difference is small and the humidity is high, so water only when dry, regardless of time; in summer the high temperature makes evaporation fast, so water in the morning and evening; in winter the plant is dormant, so water at noon. Avoid water containing salt, alkali or grease. If you have many bonsai, use pond or pool water; if you have few bonsai, you can use the water changed from a fish tank or tap water that has been left standing. Water until it flows out from the bottom of the pot, then after watering spray the leaves to wash off dust and help photosynthesis. Generally use a watering can; avoid watering bonsai directly with a tap water hose, so as not to wash away the potting soil and endanger the plant's life.

How to water potted flowers

How to water potted flowers

Watering potted flowers is one of the basic tasks of growing flowers well. Water too little and the flowers will die of thirst; water too much and too often and the flowers will rot at the roots and die.

(1) Principles to master in watering Watering potted flowers involves many factors such as the habits of the flowers, their growth stage and the climate and season, but the general principle is: do not water when not dry, water when dry; when you water, water thoroughly; alternate dry and wet.

The so-called "do not water when not dry, water when dry" - "dry" refers to the degree to which the surface layer of the potting soil is dry. It does not mean watering as soon as it is slightly dry, nor does it mean watering only after the soil has "dried completely". This point requires a certain amount of practical experience to grasp well.

The so-called "when you water, water thoroughly" means do not give "halfway water" - it looks as if water has been given, but in fact the roots have not absorbed any water.

The so-called "alternate dry and wet" means that after watering a potted flower, there should be a gap of "drying in between", not watering as soon as the surface soil looks slightly dry. For example, after watering in the morning, water again in the evening or the next morning when the potting soil looks dry. There is a process of "drying in between", and this is called "alternate dry and wet".

(2) Distinguishing whether the potting soil is dry or wet To judge whether a potted flower needs watering - that is, to what degree the potting soil must be dry before watering is needed - experienced flower growers or horticultural workers generally have the following methods of judgment:

① Watering by color: looking at color means looking at the color of the potting soil. When the potting soil appears grayish white and the surface soil has already become dry, generally speaking the potting soil is dry, or half of the potting soil is already dry. If it is midsummer, late spring or early autumn, watering is needed; if it is early spring, late autumn or winter, then watering is not necessarily needed or should be reduced. If the potting soil appears brownish black and the surface soil is moist, generally speaking the potting soil is not dry and does not need watering. This is the most common and simplest method of judgment.

② Watering by pressing the soil: if observation with the eyes still cannot determine it, or if the potting soil is covered with moss, then press the potting soil with your fingers. If when you press it the potting soil feels relatively hard and dry, or when you pinch the surface soil it appears powdery, then the potting soil is dry and needs watering; if when you press it with your fingers it feels soft and moist, or when you pinch the surface soil it appears flaky or granular, then the potting soil is moist and does not need watering.

(3) Water for watering flowers According to the content of salts, water can be divided into hard water and soft water. Hard water contains more salts such as calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium. Using it to water flowers often causes brown spots on the leaf surface of the flowers and affects their ornamental value. Therefore, soft water with fewer salts is better for watering flowers.

① Rainwater or snow water: among soft waters, rainwater or snow water is the most ideal, because rainwater or snow water is a kind of nearly neutral water, contains no minerals, and also contains more air, so it is very suitable for watering flowers. If rainwater or snow water can be used for a long time to water flowers, it can improve the ornamental value of the flowers. In seasons without rainwater or snow water, you can use mild river water, lake water or pond water.

② Tap water: urban tap water has a relatively low water temperature and may contain more chlorine, so it is best not to use it directly to water flowers. It should first be stored in a bucket or vat for 1-2 days to let the chlorine volatilize before use.

(4) Amount of water The amount of water for potted flowers should be determined according to factors such as the different habits of various flowers, their growth stage and seasonal climate changes, and must not be uniform for all.

① Water according to the different habits of the flowers: for drought-tolerant flowers, such as the common Epiphyllum, Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum, snake plant, spider plant and Clivia, and other succulent or fleshy-rooted flowers, whether in the growth period or the dormant period, after the potting soil dries, do not water too much or too often. Generally, it is better to keep them on the dry side, otherwise root rot is easily caused. We have previously said that the watering principle for cacti and Crassulaceae plants is to prefer dry over wet, and in winter they need to be completely dry. In addition, for orchids and chrysanthemums, we emphasize "dry orchids, wet chrysanthemums".

For moisture-loving flowers, such as the common Monstera, taro, Caladium, Guangdong evergreen and so on, except during the dormant period, in other seasons watering can be slightly more and more frequent, and the potting soil is generally better kept on the moist side.

② Water according to the growth stage of the flowers: generally speaking, when flowers are growing new branches and leaves, they need somewhat more water, so after the potting soil dries, watering can be slightly more, and usually it is better to keep the soil moist. But when the flower buds are differentiating, the potting soil should be on the dry side, so that under photosynthesis it is conducive to flower bud differentiation. If watered too much and the potting soil is often too wet, it will accelerate the growth of branches and leaves and affect flower bud differentiation.

For potted five-needle pine and the like, when growing new branches and leaves, especially when the needles have just emerged, the potting soil should be on the dry side, and you must not water too much, so that the emerging needles are short and dense. Otherwise, the needles will be long and sparse, affecting the ornamental value of the bonsai.

When flowers are blooming, the potting soil is generally better kept slightly moist. If the potting soil is on the dry side, it will shorten the flowering period and make the flowers wither and fade early.

During the young fruit stage of fruit trees, the potting soil should be on the dry side and must not be too wet, otherwise it will promote the germination of dormant terminal buds and lateral buds on the branches and produce many new shoots, which compete with the young fruit for nutrients and cause a large amount of fruit drop. When the fruit grows larger, the potting soil can be slightly moist; if the potting soil is too dry, the fruit will also shrivel and fall off.

During the winter dormant period, unless heating equipment is installed indoors, the potting soil of flowers is generally better kept on the dry side, and usually you must not water too much, still less water fully and thoroughly. Because at this time sunlight is weak, the temperature is low, water evaporates slowly, and the flowers are in the dormant stage, with low water requirements. If watered too much at this time and the potting soil remains wet for a long time, root rot is easily caused. The amount of water at this time can be less than half the amount used during the growth period, so as to achieve the requirement of alternate dry and wet. But note that the dormant period or semi-dormant period of some flowers is not in winter but in the high-temperature period of summer, such as Cyclamen. At this time, although it is the high-temperature season, watering must not be too much, and the potting soil is generally better kept on the dry side. If watered too much and the potting soil is often too wet, it will also cause root rot and withered leaves.

In addition, for seedlings from sowing, the amount of water should also differ at different growth stages. Generally speaking, before the seeds germinate, the potting soil should be on the moist side; after germination and emergence, that is, at the seedling stage, the amount of water should be reduced and the potting soil kept on the dry side, otherwise the phenomenon of leggy growth will occur. Therefore, at the seedling stage, a relatively low soil moisture should be maintained; only in this way can leggy growth be prevented and the seedlings grow relatively robustly. This measure is called "hardening the seedlings".

(5) Watering time In summer, late spring or early autumn, watering should be done in the morning or evening; in winter, early spring or late autumn, it can be done around noon. This can make the water temperature and soil temperature relatively consistent, preventing sudden cold or heat from stimulating the root system, which is unfavorable to the growth and development of flowers. Potted flowers indoors or in a greenhouse can also follow the above times. Cold water in the severe winter season can be left indoors for some time before being poured into the pot. But note that in summer you must not use well water or cold water to water flowers directly, otherwise the flowers will develop a phenomenon of "physiological drought".

A great disparity between air temperature and water temperature will cause "physiological drought" in the plant. Because at noon in summer water evaporates quickly, the root system of the flowers needs to continuously absorb water from the soil to replenish the loss from leaf transpiration. If cold water is poured at this time, although the potting soil gains water, because the soil temperature suddenly drops, the root hairs are stimulated by the low temperature and will immediately hinder the normal absorption of water. At this time, because the flower's body is not prepared in any way, water will lose the balance of supply and demand and produce the phenomenon of "physiological drought". This phenomenon is especially obvious in herbaceous flowers, such as geranium, cypress vine, China aster and so on.

(6) Watering methods

① Watering: you must not give "bottom-nest water" (dry on top, wet below), nor "halfway water" (wet on top, dry below).

② Spot watering: seeking out individual potted flowers that lack water and watering them. This method is generally carried out during the high temperatures of summer. In addition, during the indoor maintenance stage of flowers in winter, the spot watering method should also be adopted, and you should not water everything across the board.

③ Withholding water: consecutive rainy days or usually too much watering will cause the potting soil to lack oxygen, leading to partial root rot and causing leaves to turn yellow or fall off. At this time, watering should be stopped and the soil loosened. This is called "withholding water", until the potting soil is dry before watering again.

④ Released watering: during the peak growth season, combined with topdressing, increase the amount of water, and even if there is temporary water accumulation in the pot it does no harm, so as to meet the needs of rapid flower growth.

⑤ Restricting water: this refers to controlling the number of waterings and the amount of water. "Restricting water" is generally carried out in the following situations: first, to control vegetative growth and promote flower bud differentiation. For example, plum blossom in July, kumquat in mid-June, and grape at the germination stage or flower bud differentiation stage need water restriction in addition to increased phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Second, to make the leaves smaller so as to improve the ornamental value of the bonsai. For example, five-needle pine and black pine need water restriction during the needle growth period in May-June. Third, to improve the cold resistance of greenhouse flowers, the amount of water should be reduced throughout the overwintering period. Fourth, to control height and promote the plant's sturdiness and root growth, such as chrysanthemum needing water restriction in the late vegetative growth stage. Fifth, when repotting and changing soil, if too much of the old soil is removed, it will inevitably damage a large number of roots and cause many wounds. Some orchids and pine and cypress bonsai that are not tolerant of wet conditions often die of root rot if the potting soil is watered thoroughly after potting. Therefore, when potting, use more moist culture soil, do not water, and only spray water on the plant; wait until new buds sprout before watering.

⑥ Drop watering: when the leaves of a potted flower wilt, move the potted flower to a cool place and first give a small amount of water to revive the seedling, then water thoroughly. This kind of watering is called "drop watering", or "soul-reviving water".

⑦ Return water: also called "returning water", this refers to giving one relatively large watering on the second day after fertilizing. Its purpose is to dilute the applied fertilizer and let it seep down around the deep root system, so that it is easily absorbed by the plant, and at the same time to wash away the fertilizer liquid that contaminated the branches and leaves during fertilizing, so as to avoid fertilizer damage.

⑧ Spraying water: in dry weather and the hot summer season, often spraying clean water on the branches and leaves and sprinkling water on the ground around the flower pot can effectively wash off dust on the stems and leaves, strengthen photosynthesis on the leaf surface, and increase air humidity and lower air temperature, avoiding scorched young leaves and dry leaf edges, thereby keeping the branches and leaves fresh and green and improving their ornamental value. After summer rain, when it suddenly clears or when it is stuffy in the evening, timely spraying can play a role in cooling and preventing rot.

For some flowers that fear heat (such as Cyclamen, fuchsia and so on) and flowers that like shade and moisture (such as camellia, rhododendron, orchid and so on), often spraying water on the leaf surface in summer is very beneficial to their growth. When spraying water on the leaf surface of flowers, the amount of spray varies with the type of flower. Seedlings and delicate flowers, as well as newly potted cuttings that have not yet rooted, should all be sprayed with a suitable amount of more water; some flowers of Araceae and Bromeliaceae need frequent spraying.

In winter, spraying should use water close to room temperature to wash the leaf surface, and promptly rinse away dust accumulated on the leaf surface, which can keep the plant fresh. But spraying should not be too frequent; generally spray once every 1-2 weeks. If sprayed too much and too often at this time, it will increase the humidity of the potting soil and easily lead to root rot in dormant flowers.

But note that for flowers such as gloxinia, calceolaria, African violet, cactus and fuchsia, frequent spraying will rot the leaves and fleshy stems, so it is not suitable to spray water on the leaf surface; the leaf buds and flower buds on the tubers of Cyclamen and the flower buds in the leaf rosette of African daisy all fear water and moisture, and will easily rot if wet for too long; the pseudobulb in the center of the leaf rosette of Clivia also fears water running in. For fully open flowers, it is also not suitable to spray much water, so as to avoid the petals rotting or affecting fertilization and reducing the seed-setting and fruit-setting rate.

"Bonsai Master" talks about how to let potted plants spend the summer safely

         “Master Qi, you've come to swap the bonsai again? You put the bonsai with us and it soon withers.” Master Qi laughed: “That's because you don't know how to grow them!” Yesterday, Master Qi came to the community both to water the bonsai and to pass on the knowledge of bonsai management to community workers and residents.

Master Qi is a member of the greening team of Guihua Community. He used to have a thriving bonsai shop in the flower and bird market, but in order to care for his wife, who became disabled through illness, he sold the shop. Having stepped back to the second line, his skills remain unchanged, and he often sends bonsai he has cultivated with his own hands to the community, coming to see how they are growing whenever he has time. The pot to be swapped out was one brought last month, a unique landscape pot composed of asparagus fern, moss, a miniature rockery and a pond. A bonsai that once cost hundreds of yuan each was now coming into the community for free, which made the social workers incredibly excited. But before long, the social workers gradually discovered that summer had arrived, and ornamental plants such as gardenia, Alocasia and Alocasia, all withered one by one.

In the scorching summer, how should we grow bonsai well? Master Qi explained that in fact, in summer, indoor plants do not have high water requirements, and it is best not to water every day. Depending on the plant type, the interval between waterings differs. The simplest way is that when the surface of the soil in the plant pot is dry, you can water. For example, if placed in a large room without direct sunlight, you can water once every five or six days; if placed in a room with direct sunlight, the soil will dry faster, so the watering interval can be appropriately shortened. In addition, indoor plants should not face the air conditioner directly, otherwise the temperature difference is too great, which will cause the plant's leaf cells to close, affecting water evaporation and even causing the plant to die.

Outdoor bonsai need even more care. At noon in the hot summer, the temperature is very high, and the leaf surface temperature of plants often reaches around 40°C. The amount of water evaporation is very large, and the plant root system must continuously absorb water to replenish the loss from leaf transpiration. When plant leaves wilt, the potted plant should be moved to a shaded place in time; after a quarter of an hour, first spray water on the leaf surface, and a little later, when the potting soil is no longer hot, water it. Never water immediately in the sunlight, otherwise it will burn the roots and leaves. This phenomenon is especially serious in herbaceous flowers.

In midsummer, potted plants generally need to be watered twice a day. In the morning, be sure to water once, and water thoroughly; in the evening, if the leaves are wilted, water once more; otherwise, there is no need to water again. Watering at separate times is mainly to avoid too great a temperature difference. If the temperature difference is too great, just like with people, it can also cause flowers to catch a cold and affect normal growth.