Recommended Flowers and Plants to Plant in August

Sowing: daisies, dianthus, Calendula, wallflowers, black-eyed Susans, snapdragons, pansies, scarlet sage, and stock, all of which will bloom in flowerbeds next spring.

Cuttings: Boston ivy, Chinese rose, gardenia, coleus, honeysuckle, and Alternanthera.

Division: daylily, blackberry lily, hosta, iris, daylily, and blanket flower.

Layering: roses and hydrangeas.

Grafting: plum blossom, cherry blossom, Chinese rose, purple-leaf plum, Malus spectabilis, and cactus family plants. Key Management

Watering: Entering August, if air humidity drops and the flower plants grow larger and larger, you should increase the amount of watering for the flowers. At sunny noon, you should also spray or water the flowers according to the situation. For some plants that are leggy and bloom less, withhold water to promote flower bud differentiation. Do not let gladiolus plants that have already grown flower spikes lack water, otherwise the tops of the flowers and grass will bend, and after that even watering will not easily restore them to an upright state.

Fertilizing: Many flowers have already entered or are about to enter the fastest growth period of the whole year. At this time, fertilize China asters, chrysanthemums, dahlias, Michaelmas daisies, Ageratum, cockscomb, black-eyed Susans, bougainvillea, canna, Kochia, Alternanthera, amaranth, and scarlet sage more. Topdressing can be done by watering or spraying the leaves. No matter what flowers you fertilize, you should follow the principle of using less first and more later, and thin first and concentrated later in terms of amount. In addition, the length of the fertilizing interval should be determined according to the size and growth vigor of the plants. For flowers with small plants and weak growth, fertilize once every 5-7 days; for flowers with large plants and strong growth, fertilize once every 3-5 days. If organic liquid fertilizer is used, mixing in a small amount of urea and monopotassium phosphate will have a better effect on the growth and development of the flowers.

Light: For fast-growing flowers, transplant them promptly or widen the spacing between flower pots to allow light to penetrate. Appropriately remove the leaves blocking the grape clusters to facilitate photosynthesis and better coloring. For chrysanthemums and poinsettias undergoing short-day treatment, prevent light leakage during the day. Open the shade cover at night for ventilation, and be careful to avoid light from lamps or moonlight, otherwise their flowering period will often be delayed. For tuberoses used as cut flowers or pot flowers, do not place them under light at night; it is best to place them in a dark place, so that the fragrance of their flowers will be stronger.

Temperature regulation: It is best to place Chinese hibiscus, lotus, water lilies, and flowering maple in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot, which can raise the temperature of the micro-environment and thus extend their flowering period. When the nongkhai eggplant blooms, try to lower the ambient temperature. Because when the temperature exceeds 30°C, the flowers of the nongkhai eggplant often have poor fertilization and do not easily set fruit.

Pruning: Pinching Michaelmas daisies 3 weeks in advance and pinching scarlet sage 4 weeks in advance can control them to bloom at the scheduled time. After dahlias have set buds, removing all side buds and basal shoots of the plant can make the flowers bloom larger, and at the same time can also be used to control the flowering period of dahlias. At the beginning of the month, knock geraniums out of their pots and loosen the roots, then repot and prune them, which can ensure more branches and frequent blooming next year. Remove the ornamental pumpkins set at the end of this month, otherwise they will not easily mature in autumn and will affect the quality of other ornamental pumpkins on the plant.

Repotting: Pot up early chrysanthemums and cliff chrysanthemums grown in the ground that have already shown buds. Two days before lifting the root ball, first water thoroughly, which makes the operation easier and reduces the occurrence of root ball disturbance. Repot calla lilies, cyclamens, and fuchsias.

Disease prevention: For Chinese roses, garden balsam, and Michaelmas daisies, which are prone to powdery mildew, in addition to spraying medicine preventively every half month, you should also reduce water spraying and pay attention to ventilation.

10 Kinds of Flowers and Plants Suitable for Division Propagation What Is Division Propagation

Introduction from the Flower Bonsai Network. Today the editor will share with you an article about 10 kinds of flowers and plants suitable for division propagation. What is division propagation? Let's take a look.

What is division propagation? Which flowers and trees can be propagated by division?

Propagation by dividing the plant from the mother plant's root into two or more plants is called division propagation. This propagation method is mostly used for herbaceous flowers with strong suckering ability and clump-forming flowering shrubs.

Whether separating the suckers at the base of the mother plant (such as peony and wintersweet), or splitting a clump of flowers into several clumps (such as orchid, hosta, Chinese peony, indocalamus leaf, and palm grass), the divided plants must have roots, stems, leaves, and other organs to become complete plants before it can be called division propagation.

Peony

The division propagation of peony was already widely used in the Ming Dynasty. The specific method is: dig up the entire large, luxuriant peony plant, and separate it from the junctions of the root texture. The number of divided plants per plant depends on the size of the original plant; larger ones are divided into more, and smaller ones can be divided into fewer. Generally, every 3-4 branches form one division, and it should have a relatively complete root system. Then mix a small amount of sulfur powder with mud. Apply and spread it evenly on the wounds on the roots, and then plant them separately. The time for division propagation is from the Autumn Equinox to Frost's Descent each year, and it is best to carry it out at the appropriate time. At this time, the air temperature and soil temperature are relatively high, and the peony is in a semi-dormant state, but there is still a fairly long period of vegetative growth. Carrying out division cultivation has little serious impact on root growth, and after division planting, some new roots and a small number of plant buds can still grow. If division planting is too late, root growth that year will be very weak, or no new roots will grow; the following spring, the plant's development will be even weaker, and weak roots are not drought-tolerant and are prone to death. If division is too early, the air temperature and soil temperature are relatively high, and it can still grow rapidly, easily causing autumn growth.

The mother plant used for peony division is generally a robust clump. For the mother plant used for division propagation, root suckers should be retained as much as possible, and all roots on the new seedlings should be retained, so that after 5 years of growth more new seedlings can be produced by division. Such seedlings are easy to survive after planting and also grow more vigorously. The more roots retained, the more vigorous the growth.

Division Propagation of Wintersweet

Carry it out when the leaf buds have just begun to sprout. First, at the end of the previous year, cut off all the tops of the wintersweet branches prepared for division at 20-30 cm above the ground. During division, dig out the soil around the mother plant, split it with a knife according to 2-3 stems per clump, remove them for separate planting, and leave 2-3 thick, sturdy stems in the original place untouched. The divided wintersweet seedlings are planted at a spacing of 60 cm × 50 cm. After 2-3 years of cultivation, they can leave the nursery or undergo division propagation again.

Division Propagation of Orchids

It can be done in both spring and autumn, generally once every three years. Any plant that grows robustly and has dense pseudobulbs can be divided, and after division each clump must retain at least 5 connected pseudobulbs. Before division, reduce watering to make the potting soil relatively dry. When potting after division, first cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces, then spread coarse gravel, occupying 1/5-1/4 of the pot depth, then place coarse-grained soil and a small amount of fine soil, and then plant with sandy loam rich in humus. The planting depth should be such that the pseudobulbs are just buried in the soil. Leave a 2 cm rim at the edge of the pot, spread Selaginella uncinata or fine gravel on top, and finally water thoroughly, place in a shaded place for 10-15 days, keep the soil moist, gradually reduce watering, and carry out normal maintenance.

Division Propagation of Hosta

Before sprouting in spring or after the leaves turn yellow and wither in autumn, dig it out, remove the soil at the root zone, and cut the underground stem with a knife as required. It is best for each clump to have 2-3 pieces of underground stem and retain as many roots as possible, then plant in a pot. This is conducive to survival and does not affect flowering the following year.

Division Propagation Method of Chinese Peony

Division is the most commonly used propagation method for Chinese peony, and seedling production in Chinese peony production areas basically uses this method for propagation. It has three advantages: first, it blooms earlier than the sowing method; sown seedlings bloom in 4-5 years, while divided seedlings can bloom the next year; second, division is simple and easy to perform, saves labor in management, and is conducive to wide application; third, it can maintain the excellent traits of the original variety. The disadvantage is that the propagation coefficient is low. A three-year-old mother plant can only be divided into 3-5 daughter plants, which makes it difficult to adapt to and meet the needs of modern large-scale production and the continuously rapidly growing domestic and international flower market.

The suitable time for Chinese peony division is generally earlier than that for peony. The farming proverb in Heze, "July for Chinese peony, August for peony (referring to lunar months)," means that in Heze, Chinese peony can be divided from the end of August until late September (from End of Heat to Autumn Equinox). In Yangzhou, however, division is done from late September to early November. After three or four years of growth, divided seedlings can be divided again.

Use a shovel to dig a deep hole beside the Chinese peony plant to expose part of the Chinese peony roots, then use a sharp spade to cut and divide the Chinese peony plant, minimizing disturbance to the original plant, take out the cut part, and carry out division planting. The method is the same as above; generally it is advisable to cut off half of the original plant.

Division Propagation Method of Indocalamus Leaf

Aspidistra is mainly propagated by division. It can be done in spring when the temperature rises and before new buds have sprouted, in conjunction with repotting. Cut the underground rhizome together with the leaves into several clumps, with each clump having 3-5 leaves, then pot and plant them separately, and maintain them in a semi-shaded environment.

Division Propagation Method of Palm Grass

Division propagation can be carried out in conjunction with repotting and soil changing in spring. Early spring from March to April is the time for repotting and changing soil. Generally, small plants are repotted and have their soil changed once a year, and large plants once every 2-3 years. The commonly used potting soil is 2 parts garden soil, 1 part barnyard manure soil, and 0.5 part each of leaf mold and rice hull ash, mixed for use.

Take the original clump out of the old pot, remove the old soil, but appropriately keep some old soil around the old roots. Use mulberry shears to cut apart the root clump of the palm grass, and at the same time cut off poorly growing blackened and rotten roots. The cuts should be flat. Each clump should have at least 5-6 stems, and at most 10-20 stems (determined according to the size of the pot and the number of clumps). Then plant them into the prepared pots. Place broken pot pieces over the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage. Put in the cultivation soil, coarse first and then fine, until it is 80% full. While adding the cultivation soil, use small bamboo strips to poke the soil tightly around the roots. Do not plant too deep; keep the original root crown level with the cultivation soil. After watering thoroughly, place the potted plant in semi-shade for about half a month, and it will then become established.

Division propagation is mostly carried out in early spring or autumn. For example, orchids, dahlias, canna, and iris are all divided in spring. Woody flowers such as wintersweet, peony, and winter jasmine can be divided in either spring or autumn. As for spider plants, saxifrage, and others in the greenhouse that produce small plantlets from stolons, they can be separated and planted at any time.

The division method is relatively simple. For clump-forming flowers and trees such as wintersweet and peony, after digging up the plant, divide it into clumps as appropriate according to the size of the plant and the number of suckers; for roses, Jasminum, honeysuckle, and others, just separate rooted branches from beside the mother plant; for dahlias, canna, and others, separate the tuberous roots with buds, * or use a knife to divide the rhizome and buds or the rhizome together with the aboveground part and then plant; for orchids, clivia, bamboo fern, palm grass, indocalamus leaf, and Reineckea carnea, just divide into 2-3 clumps when repotting and plant separately.

When propagating by division, note that too many should not be separated from the mother plant at one time; generally 2-3 plants. The amount of roots on each plant should be appropriate. If there are too many roots, it will affect the growth of the mother plant; if there are too few roots, it will affect the survival of the new plant. For some precious varieties, consider using sulfur powder or other agents to disinfect the cut surfaces.

The division method produces mature plants quickly, and most can bloom in the same year. However, the number propagated is the smallest.

What Plants Are Better to Grow in the Office? Flowers Suitable for Office Planting

What flowers are good to grow in the office? Which flowers are suitable for office planting? Netizens often ask this question. In fact, there really are many flowers suitable for indoor planting, and many netizens are also concerned about the relationship between office feng shui and plants. In fact, this issue depends on the individual; the wise see wisdom and the benevolent see benevolence. How should office flowers be chosen? Mainly consider these aspects:

1. Relatively high ornamental value. This is easy to understand. Office space is limited and you often face it, so of course you hope to grow a small and exquisite pot of flowers.

2. Relatively easy to grow. The office is suitable for growing flowers that are shade-tolerant, prefer a warm environment, and have low water requirements.

3. Able to absorb harmful gases and radiation. Indoor air circulation is poor and may hide various harmful gases; in the office you face computer radiation all day long, so it would also be good to grow a pot of radiation-resistant plants.

Common flowers suitable for indoor planting include (complete list of office plants): pothos, anthurium, jade plant, agave, aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, Alocasia macrorrhizos, hyacinth, clivia, cyclamen, tulip, lucky clover, and others.

Pothos

Pothos is a shade-loving plant, avoiding direct sunlight, preferring scattered light, and relatively shade-tolerant. Indoor cultivation can place it near a window, but direct sunlight should be avoided. Too strong sunlight will scorch pothos leaves, and too much shade will make the beautiful markings on the leaf surface disappear. Usually, receiving four hours of scattered light is best for the growth and development of pothos.

It likes warm, humid environments and requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil. Potted pothos should use fertile, loose, well-drained leaf mold, preferably slightly acidic. Pothos is extremely shade-tolerant and can be placed indoors in a sunny spot all year round. In dimmer indoor areas, it should be moved every half month to a brighter environment for a period of recovery, otherwise the internodes tend to lengthen and the leaves become smaller. Pothos likes hot and humid environments; the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C, the potting soil should be kept moist, and the leaf surface should be sprayed with water frequently to increase air humidity and facilitate the growth of aerial roots. During the vigorous growth period, apply liquid fertilizer once a month. For plants displayed indoors for a long time, the leaves at the base of the stems easily fall off, reducing ornamental value. In May and June when the temperature warms up, pruning and renewal can be carried out in conjunction with cuttings to encourage new buds to sprout from the basal stems.

Pothos Grown in the Office

Hydroponic pothos, beautiful and healthy

Place a pot of pothos in the corner of the office wall, and it feels very lively

Anthurium

Anthurium Cultivation

Anthurium is a perennial evergreen herbaceous flower. It likes a warm, humid, and well-drained environment, and is afraid of drought and strong direct sunlight. Its suitable growth daytime temperature is 26-32°C, and nighttime temperature is 21-32°C. The highest temperature it can tolerate is 35°C, and the low temperature it can tolerate is 14°C. The suitable light intensity is 16000-20000 lx, and the ideal relative air humidity (RH) is 70%-80%.

Hydroponic Anthurium

Jade Plant

The jade plant is an evergreen small shrub. The plant height is 1-3 m, the stem is fleshy and much branched. The leaves are fleshy, ovate, 3-5 cm long, 2.5-3 cm wide, grayish green, with red edges. The flower diameter is 2 mm, white or light pink. The jade plant is a perennial evergreen succulent plant. The leaves are thick and fleshy, the stems and leaves are jade green, and the terminal white flowers are very elegant. It likes a warm, dry, and sunny environment. It is not cold-tolerant, is afraid of strong light, and is slightly shade-tolerant. Fertile, well-drained sandy loam is best. The winter temperature should not be lower than 7°C.

Agave

The leaves of agave are grayish green or blue-gray, up to 1.7 m long and 20 cm wide, arranged in a rosette at the base. The marginal spines are initially brown and later grayish white, and the terminal spine can be up to 3 cm long. The flower stalk emerges from the center of the rosette, and the flowers are yellow-green. It likes a warm, well-lit environment, and the growth temperature is 15 to 25°C. It is extremely drought-tolerant and requires loose, permeable soil.

Aspidistra

Aspidistra is a perennial evergreen herb. The rhizome is nearly cylindrical, 5-10 mm in diameter, with nodes and scales. It likes warm, humid, semi-shaded environments, is relatively cold-tolerant, and extremely shade-tolerant. The suitable growth temperature is 10-25°C, the temperature range in which it can grow is 7-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 0-3°C.

Monstera deliciosa

Monstera deliciosa is a large climbing herbaceous plant of the genus Monstera in the Araceae family. The young leaves are heart-shaped and without holes; after growing up they become broadly ovate with pinnate deep lobes, and there are elliptical perforations between the veins. The leaves have long petioles and are dark green. The spadix inflorescence has a boat-shaped spathe; it blooms in November, light yellow. Monstera deliciosa is also called "Penglai banana" and "wire grass." It is an evergreen climbing foliage plant of the Araceae family. Brown aerial roots grow on the stem, shaped like wires, hence the name "wire grass." The leaves are ovate; between the pinnate veins many oblong holes and deep lobes are scattered in a turtle-shell pattern, and its shape resembles a turtle-shell pattern. The stem has nodes like a bamboo trunk, hence the name "Monstera deliciosa." The spadix inflorescence, the whole flower shape looks like a "desk lamp," with a lampshade and a bulb. It is native to the tropical rainforests of Mexico. It likes warm, humid environments, avoids direct sunlight, and is not cold-tolerant. Monstera deliciosa likes cool and humid climatic conditions and is not cold-tolerant; the winter room temperature must not be lower than 10°C. It is not tolerant of high temperatures; when the temperature rises above 32°C, growth stops. The most suitable growth temperature is 22-26°C. It is tolerant of strong shade; under direct sunlight the leaves quickly turn yellow and dry up, and it can be displayed year-round in a bright room. It requires deep humus soil with strong water retention, with a pH value of 6.5-7.5; it is neither tolerant of alkali nor acid.

Alocasia macrorrhizos

Alocasia macrorrhizos is a perennial erect herb. The plant can reach 2 m tall. There is a fleshy rhizome underground. The petioles are long, with broad leaf sheaths. The leaves are large, shield-shaped and broadly arrow-shaped, clustered at the top of the stem, with pointed ends, slightly wavy edges, and obvious main veins. The spathe is yellow-green, with a spadix inflorescence. If the air and humidity are too low, the water that comes out will immediately evaporate, so dripping is generally more common in the morning, and this is called the "guttation" phenomenon (not only Alocasia has this phenomenon). The flower is spathe-shaped and belongs to the "spadix inflorescence." It is an ornamental flower plant that likes warmth, humidity, and sufficient sunlight. It generally blooms in winter and spring, with the dormant flowering period from November to May or June of the following year, and February to April is the peak flowering period.

1. The growth temperature is 20-30°C, and it can tolerate a low temperature of 8°C at minimum. In summer high temperatures, as long as the soil is kept moist, water is sprayed frequently, and shade is provided, it can still grow normally. In winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 5°C. Alocasia macrorrhizos is an understory plant of tropical rainforests, so its growth requires high humidity, and scattered light is best.

2. As a shade-tolerant plant, it likes a semi-shaded environment and should be placed in an environment that is both shaded and ventilated.

3. It especially likes moisture. During the growing season, not only must the potting soil be moist, but the air humidity must also be no less than 60%. In summer high temperatures, spraying water should be strengthened to create a relatively cool and humid environment for it. If it is placed in an indoor air-conditioned hall, it is necessary both to keep the potting soil moist and to spray the leaf surface with water from time to time. If the winter room temperature cannot reach 15°C, watering should be controlled, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot in the plant. Under normal circumstances, spraying warm water once a week can keep its leaves dark green.

4. It can be cultivated with nutrient soil mixed from leaf mold, peat soil, river sand, and a small amount of thoroughly decomposed cake fertilizer. Alternatively, it can be hydroponically grown, but attention should be paid to preventing root rot and adding nutrient solution. Usually repot once every spring, and loosen the soil once a month to keep the potting soil in a well-aerated state.

5. It relatively likes fertilizer. From March to October, apply liquid fertilizer once every half month, and the proportion of nitrogen can be appropriately increased. If a little ferrous sulfate can be added, so much the better; the leaves will then grow as large as lotus leaves and be smooth and attractive. Fertilizing should stop when the temperature is below 15°C.

6. Because Alocasia macrorrhizos is a foliage plant, under improper planting and maintenance, the largest leaves may turn yellow and dry up. At this time, they should be cut off together with the stem with a knife, otherwise it will affect the growth and ornamental value of the other leaves.

7. The white sap in the stem of Alocasia macrorrhizos is toxic, and the water it drips is also toxic. Accidental contact with or ingestion of its sap can cause discomfort in the throat and mouth, and in severe cases can also cause suffocation and lead to death from cardiac paralysis. Skin contact with its sap can cause itching or strong irritation. Eye contact with the sap can cause severe conjunctivitis, or even blindness. Therefore, contact with Alocasia macrorrhizos should be minimized, and families with children had best not grow it.

Hyacinth

Hyacinth is a perennial herbaceous bulbous plant. The bulb is ovate, with a membranous outer skin, and the color of the skin membrane is positively correlated with the flower color. Before blooming, it looks like garlic. There are 4-8 leaves, narrowly lanceolate, fleshy, with a groove on the surface, green and glossy. The flower stem is fleshy, 15-45 cm long, with a terminal raceme, and 10-20 small flowers densely born on the upper part, horizontal or drooping, funnel-shaped, with a tubular perianth, the upper part four-lobed and recurved, in colors such as purple, rose red, pink, yellow, white, and blue, fragrant, with a capsule. The natural flowering period is March to April. There are more than 2,000 horticultural varieties, roughly divided into eight series according to flower color, including blue, pink, white, goose yellow, purple, yellow, crimson, and red. It likes a sunny and relatively humid environment and requires well-drained and fertile sandy loam. It is relatively cold-tolerant. In regions with relatively warm winters, it roots in autumn, new buds emerge in early spring, it blooms in March, the fruit ripens in late May, and the aboveground part withers in early June and enters dormancy. Flower bud differentiation occurs during the dormant period. The suitable differentiation temperature is about 25°C, and the differentiation process takes about 1 month. After flower bud differentiation and before elongation growth, there must be a low-temperature stage of about two months, and the temperature must not exceed 13°C. The flower buds of commercial bulbs have already differentiated.

Clivia

Clivia is also called sword-leaf lycoris. The flowering period lasts as long as 30-50 days, mainly in winter and spring, and it also blooms around New Year's Day to the Spring Festival. It avoids strong light and is a semi-shade-loving plant. It likes coolness and avoids high temperatures. The suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C, and growth stops below 5°C. It likes fertile, well-drained soil and moist soil, and avoids dry environments. Clivia has very high ornamental value and is often potted in greenhouses in China for ornamental purposes. Clivia is native to southern Africa and grows under trees, so it is both afraid of heat and not cold-tolerant. It likes a semi-shaded and humid environment and fears strong direct sunlight. The best temperature for growth is between 18-28°C. Below 5°C and above 30°C, growth is inhibited. Clivia likes a ventilated environment and likes deep, fertile, loose soil, and is suitable for indoor cultivation.

Clivia is mainly propagated by sowing, thus forming a wide variety of cultivars. Clivia cultivation is relatively simple. First, choose the potting soil well, and it can be placed indoors near a window. Control fertilizer and water according to the temperature characteristics of each place. During the growing period, the potting soil must be kept moist. During the high-temperature semi-dormant period, the potting soil should be on the dry side, and water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface to achieve the purpose of cooling. Clivia likes fertilizer. Repot once every 2 to 3 years in spring or autumn, and add decomposed cake fertilizer into the potting soil. Each year before the growing period, apply 5 to 40 grams of decomposed cake fertilizer under the surface of the pot soil, and apply liquid fertilizer once during growth. During management, turn the pot frequently to prevent the leaves from leaning to one side. If they lean to one side, straighten them promptly. When the temperature is 25 to 30°C, it is easy to cause leggy leaves, making the leaves narrow and long and affecting the ornamental effect, so when cultivating Clivia be sure to regulate the room temperature.

Cyclamen

Cyclamen is a perennial herb. The tuber is flat-spherical, usually 4-5 cm in diameter, with a corky epidermis, brown, and slightly flattened at the top. The leaves and flower scapes emerge simultaneously from the top of the tuber; the petiole is 5-18 cm long; the leaf blade is heart-shaped ovate, 3-14 cm in diameter, with a slightly acute tip, finely crenate margins, and slightly thick texture, dark green above, often with light-colored markings. The flower scape is 15-20 cm high and does not curl at fruiting time; the calyx is usually parted to the base, with triangular or oblong-triangular lobes, entire; the corolla is white or rose red, with a deep purple throat, the tube nearly hemispherical, the lobes oblong-lanceolate, slightly acute, without auricles at the base, 3.5-5 times longer than the tube, sharply recurved.

It likes a cool, humid environment and sufficient sunlight. The suitable temperature for growth and flower bud differentiation is 15-20°C, and the humidity is 70%-75%; in the winter flowering period, the temperature must not be lower than 10°C. If the temperature is too low, the flower color will be dull and the flowers will easily fall; if the summer temperature reaches 28-30°C, the plant becomes dormant, and if it reaches above 35°C, the tuber easily rots. Seedlings are slightly more heat-tolerant than older plants. It is a day-neutral plant. The suitable light intensity during the growing season is 28000 lx. Below 1500 lx or above 45000 lx, the photosynthetic intensity decreases markedly. It requires loose, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy loam. The flowering period is from October to April of the following year.

Tulip

Tulip is a perennial herbaceous plant. The bulb is flattened conical or flattened ovate, about 2 cm long, with a brown skin, covered outside with a light yellow fibrous skin membrane. The stems and leaves are smooth and have a white powder. The suitable temperature for growth and flowering is 15-20°C. Flower bud differentiation occurs during the storage period when the stems and leaves turn yellow, the bulbs are dug out of the pots, and placed in a cool, dark room to pass the summer.

The suitable differentiation temperature is 20-25°C, and the maximum must not exceed 28°C.

Tulip is a long-day flower and likes sunny, wind-sheltered climates with warm, humid winters and cool, dry summers. It can grow normally above 8°C, and generally can tolerate a low temperature of -14°C. It is very cold-tolerant. In severe cold regions, if covered with thick snow, the bulbs can overwinter in the open field, but it fears intense summer heat. If summer comes early and midsummer is very hot, it is difficult for the bulbs to pass the summer after dormancy. It requires humus-rich, loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy loam. It avoids alkaline soil and continuous cropping.

Lucky Clover

Lucky clover, scientific name alfalfa, is a perennial herbaceous plant. It generally has only three small leaves (the chance of finding a 'four-leaf clover' is about one in one hundred thousand). The leaf shape is heart-shaped, and the darker part in the center of the leaf is also heart-shaped. Legend says that whoever finds a very unique lucky clover with purple leaves can find happiness!