How to grow potted orchids? Master three key cultivation and management points
I. The three elements of a good substrate The so-called “three elements” are potting soil, water and fertilizer. (1) Potting soil. Orchids are perennial-root plants and require soil rich in humus, fertile and loose, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. For potting soil, use leaf mold, yellow clay, sawdust, pig and cow manure and a certain amount of compound chemical fertilizer, composted and fully rotted before use, and exposed to sunlight for sterilization before potting. (2) Do not water flowers with hard water or polluted water. Orchids fear waterlogging most, and also fear drought; water moderately and keep the potting soil moist, ensuring water and fertilizer are coordinated. Usually use rotted rice-washing water for irrigation, which supplies both nutrients and water and benefits orchid growth. (3) On the basis of preparing fertile, high-quality potting soil, carry out scientific topdressing. Watering with soaked liquid of green grass and other plant stems and leaves, watermelon rind, fruit peel and bean cake gives the most ideal effect. Applying potassium fertilizers such as plant ash is beneficial to orchid growth. With the three elements of a good substrate, orchid seedlings grow robustly, resistance is enhanced, leaves are glossy and flowers are brightly colored.
II. Prevent root rot Orchid roots are weak, and improper fertilizer and water management easily causes root rot, with branches and leaves wilting and yellowing, and even plant death. To prevent root rot, first strictly prevent waterlogging in the pot; second, when yellow leaves and root rot are found, repot promptly for a thorough cure. Take the orchid plant out of the pot, cut off the rotten roots, wash clean with clear water, soak in a 500-fold potassium permanganate solution for several hours for disinfection, repot with sterile new potting soil, and place in a cool place to promote new root growth. For severe root rot, after cutting roots and disinfecting, soak the roots in a 2% to 4% sodium borate aqueous solution or naphthalene acetic acid rooting powder solution for 4 hours, then heel in fine sand, and transplant into pots after new roots emerge.
III. Three "don'ts" during flowering to prolong the flowering period For orchid flowering period management, follow the “three don'ts”: ① Do not fertilize. Generally stop fertilizing once the flower buds begin to color, to prevent petal edges from scorching and early withering. ② Do not expose to strong sun. Orchids like semi-shade; maintain sufficient scattered light daily and prevent direct strong light, especially during flowering, place in a cool, ventilated spot to prevent flowers from fading early. ③ Do not disturb the roots. During flowering, do not repot or divide; do not disturb the roots; water moderately to keep moist and maintain the roots' normal absorption and metabolic function, preventing early flower fading and prolonging the viewing period.
Key points for growing potted orchids in October
In October, with clear autumn skies, temperatures in most parts of our country are suitable and the day-night temperature difference is large; it is another golden season of the year for orchid growth, and comprehensive fertilization according to the actual condition of the orchid seedlings is very necessary. For robust orchid seedlings, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to enhance their cold resistance and lay a solid foundation for early and strong sprouting next year; for orchids sprouting autumn shoots, apply more organic fertilizer with complete nutrients to meet the various nutritional needs of orchid growth and help them grow strong before winter arrives. But in principle, fertilization should stop at the end of the month.
Let orchids bathe in sunlight
This month has the two solar terms Cold Dew and Frost's Descent; the sunlight is soft, so no shading is needed during the day, and orchids can safely receive full-day sunlight, which is greatly beneficial for promoting orchid growth, enhancing plant resistance and overwintering safely.
Increase the humidity of the orchid room
This month has little rainfall and relatively low air humidity, and the potting medium dries out easily; pay attention to increasing the air humidity of the orchid room to prevent orchid leaves from drying at the tips and scorching at the ends. In areas with good air quality, autumn rain can be allowed to fall on them, but during continuous rain they still need cover; never let orchid plants be rained on for a long time, to prevent waterlogging, root rot and black spot disease on orchid leaves.
Watch for extreme weather and prevent frost
In late this month, if extreme weather occurs, early frost may arrive in Jiangnan, and temperatures in northern temperate zones and high-cold regions may sometimes fall below 0°C; those growing orchids outdoors should watch weather forecasts and be ready at any time for frost and freeze prevention.
Combine repotting and division with orchid trading
This month most orchid plants are mature, and it is the best time of the year to introduce varieties and to repot, divide and change medium. If a full pot of mature orchid seedlings needs repotting, this work is best completed before the end of the month; if new growth has not fully matured, it is best to postpone repotting and division to facilitate continued growth, and divide the pot next spring. Introducing plants is the first step in orchid growing; getting a good start is crucial, but the following issues must be noted. First, strictly control quality and do not introduce diseased seedlings. When introducing plants, orchid friends need to keep their eyes open, follow the principle of quality first, and shut out diseased orchids. Orchid seedlings are divided into strong, medium and weak plants, with large price differences; orchid friends with solid skills may appropriately introduce medium and small seedlings to grow, which saves money and improves their own growing skills; beginners are best off introducing highly adaptable native strong plants; although the price is higher, they are relatively easy to grow. Second, strictly control the environment and improve the success rate. Introducing orchids must take the growing environment into account, which greatly affects the success rate after introduction. Orchid friends with modern orchid-growing facilities and superior conditions can boldly introduce greenhouse seedlings; those with simple facilities are best off introducing from orchid friends with a similar growing environment, as the chance of success is greater. Generally speaking, introducing orchids grown on family balconies is safest, with the strongest adaptability and the highest success rate. Third, strictly control the orchid-friend connection and ensure genuine goods at a fair price. The ranks of orchid friends are mixed; to avoid being cheated, it is best to go in person to well-known, honest orchid growers to buy. Although the price is higher, the goods are genuine. Never seek cheapness and buy from dishonest orchid dealers of unknown background, lest you be cheated and lose everything.
Thin buds to promote strength
This month, most full pots of strong plants show buds; in line with the principle of removing the weak and keeping the strong, thin the buds appropriately. Remove all flower buds sent out by old plants, and for the excessive buds sent out by the leading growth, keep only the strongest and remove the rest, so as to help the flowers bloom properly next year.
How to grow potted orchids: introduction to growth habits and cultivation and care points
1 History of orchids
Orchids have a long cultivation history in our country, with thousands of years of history. They are cultivated in all parts of our country, especially flourishing in the southwest and Taiwan, China. They enjoy the high reputation of “the finest fragrance under heaven” and “fragrant beauty.” Orchid flowers are plain and pure, soft and elegant, and pleasantly fragrant; they are a uniquely personified flower in the world.
Orchids are one of our country's oldest famous and precious flowers. The fragrance of orchids is clear without being turbid; their scent is contained within, clear and mellow, elegant and pure, thought-provoking and long-lasting. Orchid colors are light and elegant, flower forms are dignified and upright, flowers and leaves are emerald green all year round, and the slender green leaves combine hardness and softness, with graceful charm and transcendent, distant elegance. As early as the Spring and Autumn period of our country, King Goujian of Yue planted large areas of orchids on the mountains of Zhejiang.
2 Ecological habits of orchids
Orchidaceae, perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Roots clustered, fleshy, cylindrical. Leaves linear, leathery. In early spring, many flower stems emerge from between the leaves, each stem bearing 1 flower at the top; flowers are pale yellow-green and have a delicate fragrance. There are many cultivated types and many varieties. It is one of the potted ornamental plants with a long cultivation history in our country.
Wild plants grow in eastern, central, southern and southwestern parts of our country, under forest shade on mountain slopes.
Prefers a warm, well-ventilated and humid environment. It is suitable for cultivation in slightly acidic soil rich in organic fertilizer and well drained, and has strong cold resistance [1].
3 Key cultivation points for orchids
3.1 When cultivating, consider orchid root development Orchid roots are relatively well developed. According to the orchid's requirement for drainage and aeration, the flowerpot chosen for orchids is more special than ordinary flowerpots. It is better to use a “orchid pot” with rough texture, unglazed surface, many holes at the bottom edge and pot feet to grow “orchids.” An “orchid pot” is generally wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, with a relatively deep base, like a trumpet opening upward. There is a drainage hole at the bottom, and around the lower section of the pot there are many small drainage holes, whose purpose is to allow the orchid roots to breathe better. Newly planted orchids are best grown in a tile “orchid pot.” After cultivating for more than 1 year, once the new roots have developed normally, they can be moved into a beautiful purple clay “orchid pot.”
3.2 Use sandy loam mixed with humus soil Whether orchids are grown well depends on the soil. Orchids are semi-epiphytic flowers and must use acidic soil containing humus and good air permeability. Mountain soil where orchids grow in mountainous areas gives better cultivation results. Orchid soil can also be mixed yourself: use 70% sandy loam and 30% coarse granular humus soil. After mixing, pile it for more than 3 years before use.
3.3 Pay attention to the care of wild orchid roots Newly dug wild orchids from the mountains have not yet sent out new roots and have many broken roots; first remove the soil from the roots, wash clean with clear water, and cut off dead leaves and dry scorched leaf tips. For leaves infected with disease and insect spots, cut off the diseased spots without hesitation. In addition, cut off rotten and withered old roots. If the orchid has no complete roots, retain old roots without root tips and root cores. It is best to soak the orchid plant in a solution made with 600-fold “Keshade” or “Shadufan” or medical “penicillin” and “streptomycin” mixed, with each bottle of injection powder dissolved in 2.5 kg water, for 2 h, then take it out and wash clean. Dry the orchid roots in sunlight, which can activate the vitality of the orchid plant, soften the orchid roots, make them easier to straighten, less likely to break, and easier to pot. To prevent orchid leaves from drying out while sun-drying, shade the orchid leaves; generally about 2 h of light is enough.
3.4 Do not water too much Orchids are terrestrial plants and like moisture but hate waterlogging. Many beginners, afraid they lack water, end up watering too much and simply rot the orchid's fleshy roots. The watering principle for soil-grown orchids is “better dry than wet”; as long as the orchid soil keeps some moisture, that is enough. For soilless-cultured orchids, the opposite is true: “better wet than dry.”
Orchids do not have high water requirements and should be kept dry rather than wet. In January and February, water once every 7 d; in March and April, water once every 3~4 d; in May, water once every 2 days; in June, water once every d; in July and August, water once every 3 days; from September to December, gradually reduce from watering 2 times every d to watering once a week, and be careful not to let them be rained on.
Acid-base test paper can be bought at a pharmacy to test water quality. If acidity is insufficient, add some table salt and rice vinegar to the water to adjust it. Watering orchids involves much knowledge; it is best to water along the edge of the pot. In summer, water in the early morning or evening, avoid watering at noon, and do not water too much. Generally water once a week, and twice a week in summer; too much watering can cause root diseases and pests in orchids. Especially in continuous rainy weather, the potting soil should be dry rather than wet; a dry pot helps orchids send out new leaves.
3.5 Orchids have light requirements From March to mid-April, orchids can be exposed to sunlight; from late April, after 09:00, they should not be exposed to much sun; spring orchids need only 2 h of sunlight every d, and from June to September shading must be started earlier every d. After October, shading can be delayed.
3.6 Fertilization Newly planted orchids should be fertilized only after they grow new roots 2 cm long; generally new roots take about 2 months, and some people advocate fertilizing only after 1~2 years of cultivation. Orchid fertilizer can be made yourself: use 4 parts plant ash, 10 parts bean cake and 6 parts bone meal, mix well, store in a container, add water in portions, and after 1 year of fermentation, dilute before use.