How to grow potted orchids? Master their growth habits and key cultivation and care points
1 The history of orchids. Orchids have a long history of cultivation in our country, with a history of several thousand years. They are cultivated everywhere in our country, especially flourishing in the southwest and Taiwan, China. They enjoy the reputation of "the finest fragrance under heaven" and "fragrant beauty." Orchid flowers are pure and unadorned, soft and elegant, and pleasantly fragrant, making them a uniquely personified flower in the world.
1 The history of orchids
Orchids have a long history of cultivation in our country, with a history of several thousand years. They are cultivated everywhere in our country, especially flourishing in the southwest and Taiwan, China. They enjoy the reputation of “the finest fragrance under heaven” and “fragrant beauty.” Orchid flowers are pure and unadorned, soft and elegant, and pleasantly fragrant, making them a uniquely personified flower in the world.
Orchids are one of the oldest precious ornamental flowers in our country. The fragrance of orchids is clear without being heavy; their scent is contained within, pure and mellow, elegant and clean, thought-provoking, and long-lasting. Orchid colors are light and elegant, the flower posture is dignified and graceful, and the leaves remain emerald green all year round. The slender emerald leaves combine strength and softness, with graceful charm and a transcendent, understated beauty. As early as the Spring and Autumn period in our country, King Goujian of Yue planted large patches of orchids in the mountains of Zhejiang.
2 Ecological habits of orchids
Orchidaceae, perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Roots clustered, fleshy, cylindrical. Leaves linear, leathery. In early spring, many flower stems emerge from between the leaves, each stem bearing 1 flower at the top; flowers pale yellow-green, with a delicate fragrance. There are many cultivated types and many varieties. It is one of the potted ornamental plants with a long history of cultivation in our country.
Wild in eastern, central, southern, and southwestern parts of our country, under the shade of slopes and forests.
Prefers a warm, well-ventilated, humid environment. Suitable for cultivation in slightly acidic soil rich in organic fertilizer and well drained, with strong cold resistance[1].
3 Key cultivation points for orchids
3.1 Consideration of orchid root development during cultivation. Orchid roots are relatively well developed. According to the orchid's requirements for drainage and aeration, the pots selected for orchids are more special than ordinary flower pots. It is better to use a coarse-textured, unglazed “orchid pot” with many holes at the bottom edge and pot feet to grow “orchids.” “Orchid pots” are generally larger at the top and smaller at the bottom, with a relatively deep base, like a trumpet opening upward. There is a drainage hole at the bottom, and around the lower section of the pot there are many small drainage holes, the purpose of which is to allow the orchid roots to breathe better. Newly planted orchids are best planted in earthenware “orchid pots.” After cultivation for more than 1 year, once the new roots have developed normally, they can be moved into attractive purple clay “orchid pots.”
3.2 Soil: use a mix of sandy loam and humus soil. Whether orchids are grown well or not depends on the soil. Orchids are semi-epiphytic flowers and must use acidic soil containing humus and good air permeability. Mountain soil from mountainous areas where orchids grow gives better cultivation results. Orchid soil can also be mixed oneself: use 70% sandy loam and 30% coarse granular humus soil. After mixing, pile it for more than 3 years before use.
3.3 Pay attention to the care of wild orchid roots. Newly dug wild orchids from the mountains have not yet sent out new roots and often have many broken roots. First clean off the soil around the roots, wash them clean with clear water, and cut off dead leaves and dry, scorched leaf tips. For leaves stained with disease or pest spots, the diseased spots should be cut away without hesitation. In addition, rotten and yellowed old roots should also be cut off. If the orchid has no intact roots, then the old roots without root tips and the root cores should be retained. It is best to soak the orchid plant in a solution made by mixing 600-fold dilution of “Keshade” or “Shadufan” or medical “penicillin” and “streptomycin,” dissolving the powder of each vial in 2.5 kg of water, for 2 h, then remove and wash clean. Drying the orchid roots in the sun can activate the vitality of the orchid plant, make the orchid roots soft, easier to straighten out, less likely to break, and easier to pot. To prevent the orchid leaves from drying out while sun-drying, the leaves can be shaded; generally about 2 h of light is enough.
3.4 Do not water too much. Orchids are terrestrial plants and like moisture but dislike waterlogging. Many beginners, afraid that they lack water, end up watering too much and simply rot the orchid's fleshy roots. The watering principle for soil-cultured orchids is “better dry than wet”; it is enough to keep the orchid soil slightly moist. For soil-less cultivated orchids, the opposite is true: “better wet than dry.”
Orchids do not have high water requirements and prefer dry over wet. In January and February, water once every 7 d; in March and April, water once every 3-4 d; in May, water once every 2 days; in June, water once every d; in July and August, water once every 3 days; from September to December, gradually reduce from watering 2 times per d to watering once a week, and be careful not to let them get rained on.
pH test paper can be bought at a pharmacy to test the water quality. If the acidity is insufficient, add some table salt and rice vinegar to the water to adjust it. Watering orchids involves a great deal of knowledge; it is best to water around the edge of the pot. In summer, watering should be done in the early morning or evening, and watering at noon should be avoided; the amount of water should not be too large. Generally water once a week; in summer water twice a week. Too much watering can cause root diseases and pests in orchids. Especially in continuous rainy weather, the potting soil should be dry rather than wet; a dry pot helps orchids send out new leaves.
3.5 Orchids have light requirements. From March to mid-April, orchids can be exposed to sunlight; from late April onward, after 09:00, they should not be exposed to too much sun; spring orchids need only 2 h of sun exposure per d, and from June to September shading should be started earlier each d. After October, shading can be delayed.
3.6 Fertilization. Newly planted orchids should not be fertilized until they have grown new roots 2 cm long; generally new roots take about 2 months to grow, and some people advocate fertilizing only after 1-2 years of cultivation. Orchid fertilizer can be made at home: use 4 parts plant ash, 10 parts soybean cake, and 6 parts bone meal, mix well, store in a container, add water in stages, ferment for 1 year, then dilute before use.
How to care for household potted orchids
Orchids are perennial evergreen epiphytic flowers. They have unique flower shapes and graceful flower postures, thus becoming a flower variety cherished by people. So how should household potted orchids be cared for? We believe four key points should be grasped:1. To preserve nutrients, cut off the stems after the flowers fade. For all kinds of orchids, especially Cymbidium sinense, also called Baosui orchid, the stems after the flowers fade should be cut off as early as possible to avoid consuming nutrients and affecting the sprouting of axillary buds. After cutting off the flower stems, use soft gauze or a cotton ball dipped in 0.1% omethoate or dichlorvos solution to gently wipe the front and back of the orchid leaves, so as to remove insect eggs, dust, and stains and welcome the arrival of the new growth period.
2. Adjust light. Although orchids like a cool, ventilated environment, they also need appropriate sunlight. If potted orchids are kept in a shady place all year round, the leaves will grow leggy, flowering will become very sparse, the various organs of the orchid will weaken, and diseases and pests are likely to occur. Therefore, light needs to be adjusted reasonably to benefit the healthy growth of orchids.
Generally speaking, for green-leaf varieties, unusual-flower varieties, and dwarf orchids, 60% of full-day sunlight is needed in spring, and 50% thereafter; for variegated-leaf orchid varieties, 50% of full sunlight is needed in spring, and 30% thereafter. To adjust light well, households using a balcony-style growing setup can set up a movable plastic frame on the balcony, opening it when needed and covering it when not needed, to ensure the orchid's light duration.
3. Fertilizer supply. When orchid plants are dormant, semi-dormant, or have just been divided and potted, the fertilizer applied cannot be absorbed; in seasons with high air humidity, applying too much fertilizer solution will also place a heavier burden on the orchid root system. To ensure safety, orchids generally should not be fertilized during dormancy, and should not be fertilized at the roots just after division and potting.
4. Sterilization and pest control. Around the place where orchids are grown and the flower pots, a virus-clearing agent, chlorothalonil, or similar chemicals can be sprayed once every 7 days, and insecticidal chemicals such as omethoate or trichlorfon can be sprayed once every 10 days. Note that 2 hours after applying insecticidal chemicals, the orchid leaves should be sprayed with clean water once to avoid chemical injury.1. Potting soil requirements: soil rich in humus, loose, and well drained, neutral to slightly acidic, is best, with a pH generally around 5.5 to 6.5. In Sichuan, Emei Xiantu and “Xinghong brand” refined orchid growing medium are often used, and more commonly “bamboo root mud” and leaf mold from moist mountain forests are used to cultivate orchids.
2. Placement site: orchids can be grown outdoors and on balconies in spring, summer, and autumn, and a location with good ventilation, humid air, and no environmental pollution should be chosen. Near a pond or riverside is of course good, but at least there should be tall trees or a bamboo grove and shade netting to reduce sunlight exposure and lower the temperature. Orchid pots are best placed on wooden shelves (or steel shelves); if placed on the ground, bricks should be used underneath. Household balconies can also use a small galvanized sheet water trough with water stored and bricks placed on top for cultivation, to increase humidity.
3. Proper shading: most orchids are semi-shade plants, and most species fear direct sunlight and need proper shading. In early to mid-April, orchids can have the net removed and windows opened, with more sunlight to promote growth. In May, except for midday sunlight, they can receive 6 hours of light; from June onward, shade all day, and after October, except for midday sun, they can be fully exposed for care. Remember the proverb: “More shade gives good leaves, more sun gives good flowers.”
4. Reasonable fertilization: orchids are naturally “vegetarian,” and fertilization should depend on the selected potting soil and growth conditions. Those growing luxuriantly and free of disease can be fertilized, while those growing poorly should not be fertilized or should be fertilized only lightly. Newly planted orchids that have not fully developed roots after potting need 1-2 years before fertilization. Generally in June-July, when orchid leaf buds extend to about 1.5 cm, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once every three weeks (a diluted concentration of about 10% is suitable). Avoid chemical fertilizers; in high-temperature seasons fertilization is not suitable. In August-September, apply diluted liquid fertilizer once every two to three weeks. Each fertilization of orchids is best done in the evening, with clear water applied in the morning, called “return water.”
5. Proper watering: rainwater and spring water are best for watering orchids; tap water or rice-washing water should be left overnight before use. When watering, pour around the edge of the pot, and do not pour into the flower buds. The amount of water should be determined according to temperature, the wetness of the potting soil, and the growth condition of the orchid. Water more when leaves are large, and less when leaves are fine. In April-May, when new buds have not yet emerged from the soil, the potting soil should be a bit dry; if too wet, new buds easily rot. From June to September, during the orchid's new bud growth period, the amount of water should be increased; on sunny days, water once in the early morning or evening, and never water under the scorching midday sun. In autumn, reduce the amount of water appropriately, and leaf-surface misting can be used; keeping the potting soil moist is better. In winter, water should be controlled even more, maintaining “80% dry, 20% wet.”
6. Evening misting: orchids originally grow in a humid environment, so in dry seasons, in addition to shading, evening misting is also necessary to increase air humidity and lower the temperature; water can also be poured onto the ground (table surface) where the potted orchids are placed. “One cold, one hot” can better stimulate orchid growth.
7. Wind and rain protection: the yellowing and loss of old leaves in the “February ghost wind” is a normal phenomenon, and dead branches and withered leaves can be cut off. Orchids can tolerate light rain, but should avoid moldy rain, torrential rain, or continuous rain, otherwise the heart and leaves easily rot. In seasons with a lot of rain, a small amount of plant ash can be scattered appropriately.
8. Pruning and flower removal: during orchid cultivation, yellowed and broken leaves and diseased leaves should be cut off regularly to improve ventilation. For precious orchids, if there are too many flower buds, keep only the strong buds; 1-2 flower buds per pot are suitable. Spring orchids should be removed half a month after flowering, and precious orchids should be removed after 7 days, so that spring leaf buds grow robustly and create better flowering the following year. When the last flower on the inflorescence of summer orchids has been open for one week, cut it 3 cm above the pot surface.
9. Cold protection and warmth: because orchid varieties differ, their places of origin vary, and their cold resistance also differs, the time to move them indoors in winter and their indoor placement are also different. Cold orchids, autumn orchids, and Baosui orchids grow in the south and should be moved indoors (or have windows closed and netting drawn) when the temperature is 5°C, and placed as much as possible in a south-facing sunny spot. Spring and summer orchids have stronger cold resistance and can be moved indoors only when the temperature reaches 0°C, placed on the northeast side. Around noon on clear, windless days, windows should be opened on the south or southeast side and netting drawn for ventilation. Autumn orchids should not have windows opened on clear days at 1-2°C. Of course, if there is a greenhouse, electric lighting can be used for heating.
10. Disease and pest prevention: potting soil generally needs sterilization treatment (exposure to the scorching sun is also acceptable) to prevent disease. Orchids are most prone to southern blight in rainy, high-temperature seasons. For a small amount, it can be brushed off with a damp cloth; when there are many pots, Bordeaux mixture or thiophanate-methyl at 500-800-fold dilution can be sprayed once every 7-10 days. Among pests, scale insects (commonly called “orchid lice”) occur frequently; during the hatching period, use a 1000-fold solution of 1% omethoate and 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate and spray once a week. To treat the symptoms, one must also treat the root cause: pots should be spaced appropriately, placed at varying heights, and ventilation increased, which is better for reducing disease occurrence.Introduction to orchid varieties (pictures)
Orchids are precious ornamental plants. According to incomplete statistics, there are currently more than 700 genera and more than 20,000 species worldwide, and many new varieties are discovered and bred each year. Orchids are mainly divided by ecological habit into three major categories: terrestrial orchids, epiphytic orchids, and saprophytic orchids. Because most terrestrial orchid varieties originate in China, terrestrial orchids are also called Chinese orchids and are ranked first among China's top ten famous flowers. Chinese orchids are mainly the five major categories of Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium kanran, and Cymbidium sinense, with thousands of horticultural varieties.
1. Cymbidium goeringii
Cymbidium goeringii is also called mountain orchid, grass orchid, Pudi orchid, Pudi'e, and Duoduo fragrant. The main characteristics of Cymbidium goeringii are as follows:
Roots: the roots of Cymbidium goeringii are slender, long cylindrical, usually 20-40 cm long and 0.5-0.8 cm in diameter, occasionally exceeding this range. The roots gradually taper from base to tip and usually have no branching.
Stem: the pseudobulbs of Cymbidium goeringii are relatively obvious, slightly spherical or elliptical, rather small, concealed within the leaf bases and leaf sheaths, clustered together, 1-1.6 cm high and 0.8-1.5 cm in diameter.
Leaves: Cymbidium goeringii has 4-7 leaves, clustered, narrowly strap-shaped, leaf blades 20-55 cm long and 0.6-1.7 cm wide; leaves thinly leathery, soft in texture, green to dark green; leaf surface relatively flat and spreading.
Flowers: Cymbidium goeringii blooms in February-March, with mid-February as the initial flowering period, late February to early March as the full flowering period, and from mid-March as the late flowering period. The flower scape emerges from the inner side of the sheath-like leaves at the base of the pseudobulb, cylindrical, upright, shorter than the leaves, 2-15 cm long, with 1 flower or 2 flowers per scape; flower diameter 4-8 cm, mostly fragrant; flower color varies greatly, from pale yellow-green, green, yellow-white, light brown to other colors, generally with variegated veins and spots.
Cymbidium goeringii is one of the orchids with the longest cultivation history in China. In many ancient poems and paintings, there are descriptions and glorious images of Cymbidium goeringii. Cymbidium goeringii has strong adaptability and a wide distribution. Surveys in recent years show that Cymbidium goeringii is widely distributed in Sichuan, Yunnan, Guizhou, Zhejiang, and other places on forest edges, forest clearings, shrub grasslands, and rocky moist slopes.
Through long-term cultivation and selection, people have already selected many rare, precious, unusual, and special varieties from Cymbidium goeringii. They are briefly introduced as follows:
Main plum-petal varieties: Song Mei, Xishen Mei, Wanzi, Yipin, Jiyuan, Tianzhang Mei, Cai Mei, Cuiwen, Cuiyun, Jizi, etc.
Main lotus-petal varieties: Zheng Xiaohe, Luyun, Cuigaihe, Huanqiu Hedding, Gaohe, Zhang Hesu, Songxia Su, Yuepei Su, Wentuan Su, Wenyan Su, etc.
Main narcissus-petal varieties: Wangzi, Suyuexian, Xizi, Longzi, Chunyipin, Cuiyipin, Caixiansu, Yichunxian, Taiji, Qifeng, etc.
In recent years, many new varieties with ornamental value have also been discovered, such as Tianpeng Peony, Jinxiu Zhonghua, Shengshi Peony, Guanshen, etc.
(The picture below shows 20081026 Huanglong Mountain wild-collected orchid 20090209 first bloom)2. Cymbidium faberi
Cymbidium faberi is a widely distributed terrestrial orchid and, like Cymbidium goeringii, has a long cultivation history. Its characteristics are introduced as follows:
Roots: the roots of Cymbidium faberi are relatively thick and short, 21-35 cm long and 0.5-1 cm in diameter, with the base slightly thicker than the front part of the root, and no branching.
Stem: pseudobulbs inconspicuous, clustered into clumps, 1.4-1.8 cm high and 0.8-1.3 cm in diameter, elliptical.
Leaves: 5-8 clustered, 30-140 cm long, even longer, 0.6-1.3 cm wide, narrowly strap-shaped, the base often folded lengthwise, strongly upright, the upper part of the leaf slightly curved, thinly leathery, relatively hard in texture; midrib obvious, semi-transparent, protruding toward the back of the leaf, parallel veins also relatively obvious; leaf margins with coarse serrations, leaf surface rough, the middle and lower parts deeply concave, the cross-section “U”-shaped; leaf tip gradually pointed, symmetrical on both sides of the midrib; leaf stalk scar inconspicuous; sheath-like leaves thinly leathery, 7-15 cm long; the leaf base of mature plants gradually spreads apart and is not clasping;
Flowers: flowering period April-May, mid-April as the initial stage, late April as the full flowering period, and May entering the late flowering period; 1-2 flower arrows, flowers orange-yellow, with dark purplish-red veins and spots; flowers usually strongly fragrant.
Because Cymbidium faberi has a relatively long cultivation history, there are also very many traditional cultivated varieties, such as: Shanghai Mei, Old Shanghai Mei, Old Ranzhi, Guanding, Chenghai, Yuanzi, Panlu, Old Jipin, Rui Mei, Que Mei, etc.
3. Cymbidium ensifolium
Cymbidium ensifolium is also called four-season orchid, summer Hui, summer orchid, autumn orchid, autumn Hui, sword Hui, etc.
Cymbidium ensifolium is mainly distributed in Taiwan, China, Fujian, Zhejiang, and other places.
Roots: the roots of Cymbidium ensifolium are thick and strong, 20-25 cm long and 0.6-0.9 cm in diameter, with branching.
Stem: pseudobulbs clustered, ellipsoidal, slightly longitudinally flattened; 1-1.5 cm high and 1.2-1.7 cm in diameter.
Leaves: 2-6 clustered, narrowly strap-shaped, leaf surface slightly glossy, 20-65 cm long and 1-2 cm wide; leaves upright and vigorous, the upper part slightly slanting outward; thinly leathery, relatively hard in texture; leaf surface flat and spreading, dark green.
Flowers: the flowering period of Cymbidium ensifolium is July-October, usually opening twice, about one month apart; the initial flowering period can be as early as early July, with the full flowering period in mid-July; the initial flowering period of the second bloom is in early August, with mid-August as the full flowering period; if the first flowering is late, then the second flowering will be delayed until it begins to open in late August; it blooms fully in early September and enters the late flowering period in mid-September. There are 1-2 flower arrows, bearing 3-9 flowers, even more; when flowering, the ovary twists 180 degrees, and a rich fragrance is released; flowers medium-sized, about 4.3-6.2 cm in diameter; flower color varies greatly, often yellow-green, with purple and purplish-red veins and spots.
Cymbidium ensifolium is deeply loved by the broad masses of people and has a long cultivation history in our country, with many traditional famous varieties, and in recent years many new varieties have been continuously discovered. Overall, Cymbidium ensifolium can be divided into two major categories: colored-center and plain-center. Common famous varieties include: Yinbian Dagong, Shiba Xueshi, Yangtian Xiao, Jinsi Mawei, Baodao Xiannü, etc.4. Cymbidium kanran
Roots: the roots of Cymbidium kanran are relatively fine, 20-30 cm long and 0.4-0.6 cm in diameter. With branching.
Stem: pseudobulbs clustered, 2-4 cm high and 1.2-2 cm in diameter, long elliptical or narrowly ovoid, concealed within the leaf bases.
Leaves: 3-7 clustered, strap-shaped, thinly leathery, dark green, glossy or not; leaf blades 40-80 cm long and 0.9-3.5 cm wide, leaf surface flat and spreading, the upper part drooping; midrib obvious, protruding toward the back; margin entire or with fine teeth at the tip, leaf tip gradually pointed, symmetrical on both sides of the midrib; leaf stalk scar obvious; sheath-like leaves thinly leathery, 10-12 cm long.
Flowers: the flower scape of Cymbidium kanran emerges from the inner side of the sheath-like leaves at the base of the pseudobulb, 25-60-(80) cm long, cylindrical, upright; with 5-8 sheaths, 5-7 cm long, membranous, semi-transparent, clasping the flower scape, often with a strong and lasting fragrance; flowers relatively large, 6-9 cm in diameter; flower colors diverse, including yellow-green, purplish-red, deep purple, etc., usually with variegated veins and spots.
The flowering period of Cymbidium kanran varies by region, usually concentrated in October-November, but some bloom in July and January, and some even bloom in April-May, so in recent years people have thought that Cymbidium kanran should be divided into spring Cymbidium kanran, summer Cymbidium kanran, autumn Cymbidium kanran, etc.
Cymbidium kanran is mainly distributed in Zhejiang, Anhui, Taiwan, China, Japan, and other places. There are many good varieties, such as: Canyue, Sufeng, Bulaobai, Rixiang Bailong, etc.5. Cymbidium sinense
Roots: the roots of Cymbidium sinense are thick and long.
Stem: pseudobulbs elliptical or ovoid, clustered into clumps; 1.4-2.5 cm in diameter.
Leaves: 3-5 clustered; strap-shaped, entire, nearly leathery, dark green, glossy, the upper part spreading outward, the lower part with a joint; 60-90 cm long and 2-4.2 cm wide.
Flowers: the flower scape emerges from the base of the pseudobulb, usually taller than the leaf surface, upright; with 7-20 flowers, medium-sized, 4-5 cm in diameter, flower colors various, but mostly purplish-brown with deep purple veins, flowers often fragrant; bracts small, with nectaries at the base; sepals narrowly elliptical to lanceolate, petals shorter and wider than the sepals, extending forward and covering above the column.
Cymbidium sinense is also called Baosui orchid, Baisui orchid, Fengsui orchid, and Rensui orchid. It is mainly distributed in Guangdong, Hainan, Taiwan, China, and other provinces and regions, and has a long cultivation history in our country. Through the careful cultivation and selection by several generations of orchid enthusiasts, very many fine and famous varieties have been handed down to the present, such as: Datun Qilin, Fugui Minglan, Jifu Longmei and Shiba Jiaomei, Cailong, etc.
6. Chun Jian
Chun Jian is often called authentic Sichuan orchid. Although Yunnan, Guizhou, and Sichuan all have famous varieties, the Sichuan orchid famous varieties are the most precious. Flower colors include red, yellow, white, green, purple, black, and compound colors, brilliant and eye-catching, with a graceful bearing and elegant charm, rich fragrance and pure taste, often the first choice favored by orchid growers.
Orchid seeds are haploid and basically cannot develop into plants unless the gene number doubles during seed formation. Moreover, orchids vary greatly, and plants grown from seed are not the original orchid either. There is now a method for propagating orchids from seed, which is to use sterile culture medium plus auxin to grow them, but ordinary households cannot do this. Orchid propagation is all vegetative propagation; plants grown from seed are all variants, and this kind of polyploid variation has a very low natural formation rate.
Clivia cultivation methods and precautions, key care points
1. Daily cultivation methods for CliviaClivia likes semi-shade, with 10 to 25 degrees being most suitable, and is suitable for growing in loose, fertile, slightly acidic organic soil. How should Clivia be watered, fertilized, light-adjusted, and repotted in daily care? See >> Clivia cultivation methods and key care pointsIn South China, Clivia can be used to arrange flower beds or as cut flowers; in East China and areas north of the Yangtze River basin, it is used as an indoor potted plant for foliage and flowers.
Clivia is native to the tropics. It likes semi-shade, with 10 to 25 degrees being most suitable, and is suitable for growing in loose, fertile, slightly acidic organic soil.
Under normal circumstances, Clivia blooms once a year. If the indoor growing temperature is suitable, it can bloom around the Spring Festival. Known as the flower of wealth and honor, Clivia generally blooms once a year after growing up; blooming twice a year is rare, and blooming three times is extremely rare.
1. Soil selection
The roots of Clivia are fleshy roots and are suitable for growing in loose, fertile soil with good air permeability, so the soil for cultivating Clivia should be selected to meet the above requirements.
2. Fertilization
Clivia has the fastest vegetative growth in winter and needs the most nutrients, so applying winter fertilizer well is very important. Before bringing the pots indoors, use bone meal, fried sesame, cooked soybeans, etc., or compound fertilizer, and apply once every 15 to 20 days diluted in water; animal and plant residue soaking liquid can also be used to water the roots. Fertilizer must be fully decomposed and applied lightly to prevent concentrated fertilizer from causing damage.
Fertilization of Clivia should be determined specifically according to the size, variety, and growth and development of the Clivia. Too much or too little fertilizer is not good. Too much will burn the roots; too little will cause a lack of nutrients, and the leaves will obviously become narrower and not upright.
3. Watering
Clivia has fleshy roots and likes air but fears waterlogging. In addition, Clivia leaves have a waxy layer, and in winter when the temperature is low, transpiration and evaporation of water are low. Therefore, watering should not be excessive; simply water in conjunction with fertilization and keep the potting soil moist. Never flood-irrigate, which can cause root rot and plant death.
Remember the watering principle: do not water unless dry, and when watering, water thoroughly. Never water just a little at a time; that superficial method is especially harmful to Clivia. Also pay attention to watering time, preferably in the morning or evening. At noon in summer, the temperature is very high, so watering is not suitable. Another point is that watering should avoid the flower heart to prevent heart rot.
4. Heat preservation
The most suitable growth temperature for Clivia is 15°C to 25°C; growth stops at 10°C, and freezing damage occurs at 0°C. Therefore, in winter it must be kept warm and protected from freezing. After the flower stem emerges, maintaining about 18°C is suitable. If the temperature is too high, the leaves and flower scape grow leggy, thin, and lanky, the flowers are small and poor in quality, and the flowering period is short; if the temperature is too low, the flower stem is short and prone to premature flowering, affecting quality and reducing ornamental value.
5. Light adjustment
Clivia likes scattered light and avoids direct strong light. For indoor care in winter, the pot should be placed in a place with sufficient light. Especially before flowering, there should be good light, which is beneficial for the flower buds to develop fully. After flowering, appropriately lower the temperature and avoid strong light, and maintain good ventilation, which helps prolong the flowering period.
6. Leaf care
Lush leaves make strong flowers; green leaves make bright flowers. Short, broad, thick, green, glossy, and upright leaves are the characteristics of healthy Clivia and the basis for promoting flowering and improving ornamental value. To maintain robust leaf quality, in addition to providing reasonable fertilizer and water, the leaf surface must be kept clean to improve photosynthetic efficiency. Methods of leaf care: first, regularly wash the leaves, spraying and rinsing with the same clean water or wiping dust off polluted leaves to keep the leaf surface clean; second, promptly spray fungicides to prevent leaf spot disease, leaf blight, and stem rot, ensuring the leaves remain green and the flowers brilliant.
7. Repotting
When Clivia grows bigger, it needs to be moved to a larger pot. This is “repotting and changing soil.” The best time to change the soil is spring and autumn, because Clivia grows vigorously then and changing the soil will not affect plant growth. The most critical point in changing soil is to firm the soil around the roots. Otherwise, if there is no soil around the roots, water and nutrients cannot reach the roots, easily causing root rot.
Household care of Clivia should mainly start with temperature and humidity, soil, water, light, nutrition, and other aspects. >> Knowledge and key points for household care of CliviaClivia is suitable for indoor cultivation, mainly determined by its internal structure and physiological functions. Clivia is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant with strong shade tolerance and thick, large, dark green leaves. The leaf mesophyll contains a large amount of chlorophyll and can absorb carbon dioxide and water in sunlight, synthesize organic matter for its own growth and development needs, and release oxygen at the same time. In addition, on the broad, thick leaves of Clivia, there are many stomata and hairs that can secrete a large amount of mucus. During gas exchange, it can absorb a large amount of indoor dust, dirt, and harmful gases, making the indoor air clean. Therefore, Clivia is also praised by people as an “absorption machine” and “dust collector,” and the guardian of human health. So how can this guardian of health also grow healthily in your home? Household care of Clivia should mainly start with temperature and humidity, soil, water, light, nutrition, and other aspects.
Because Clivia is native to the mountain forests of South Africa, where the natural environment is like spring all year round, the various organs of the Clivia plant have already adapted to this neither-cold-nor-hot natural environment. Therefore, in daily care, the temperature should be controlled between 15-25 degrees. When the temperature drops below 10 degrees, the growth and development of Clivia slows; when it drops below 0 degrees, it will freeze to death. Similarly, when the temperature reaches or exceeds 30 degrees, it will also seriously affect the normal growth and development of Clivia.
Water is an important component of the Clivia plant. According to measurements, Clivia contains 60%-80% water, and especially its fleshy roots have a strong water-storage function and relatively strong resistance to drought.
Clivia likes neutral water. Clean, pollution-free tap water, well water, river water, etc. can all be used for watering, but because fresh tap water and well water are lower in temperature than the soil and contain some impurities, they should be left to stand for 1-2 days before use. As for watering, there is also quite a lot of attention to detail. For small Clivia seedlings, the best method is to use a spray bottle to spray-irrigate. Point the nozzle upward and spray onto the leaves. The advantage of doing this is that, in addition to achieving the purpose of watering, it can also wash off dust, and at the same time leave mist droplets on the leaf surface, ensuring a certain humidity on the leaf surface. In sunlight, water evaporation can lower the leaf surface temperature and prevent sunscald. However, for Clivia that is flowering, spray irrigation cannot be used for watering, to prevent water from entering the leaf sheath and causing heart rot. For Clivia in the flowering period, water can only be poured into the pot. So when is the right time to water, and how much water is appropriate? This mainly depends on the environmental temperature in which the Clivia is kept.
The general watering principle is “watch for wetness and dryness; do not water unless dry; when dry, water thoroughly.” Watering thoroughly means making all the roots of the Clivia be in the same humidity. Judging whether the water has penetrated thoroughly cannot be based only on whether water flows out of the bottom of the pot. Because sometimes after the potting soil dries, it hardens and shrinks into a ball; after watering, water quickly flows from the pot wall to the bottom of the pot and runs out through the bottom hole. The central part of the potting soil may not have been touched by even a little water. If watering is stopped at this time, the Clivia leaves will wilt, and if it is in the process of sending up a flower arrow, it can cause the arrow to be stuck.
A simple and effective watering method is to immerse the entire flower pot in a basin or bucket filled with water, soak for half a minute, and then take it out. However, the disadvantage of doing this is that nutrients in the soil are relatively easily lost, so if you want Clivia to have deep roots and large leaves, you should also pay attention to replenishing nutrients in time. The nutrients needed by Clivia mainly come from organic fertilizers, such as soybean cake, peanut oil cake, animal offal, etc. Under normal circumstances, applying once in spring and once in autumn within a year is enough. In spring, apply once after flowering, around late April to early May; in autumn, after the fruit is harvested, apply once more from about mid-September to late October.
Clivia is a moisture-loving plant and has relatively high requirements for the humidity of the growing environment. Its most suitable humidity range is 70%-80%. Clivia grown in such an environment has tender green leaves, clear veins, and short, wide, neat leaves, with high ornamental value. However, limited by household environmental conditions, ordinary households find it very difficult to reach this standard. This is also the main reason why many people cannot grow Clivia well. Clivia is a day-neutral plant and does not have strict light requirements; as long as the temperature is suitable, it can bloom normally whether the light duration is a little longer or shorter, and short-day conditions in winter and spring are more conducive to flowering. Good light is an important condition for ensuring large and brightly colored Clivia flowers. But it still prefers relatively weak light, and especially dislikes strong light.
Clivia leaves have phototropism. If it is placed in one place indoors for a long time, the leaves will inevitably turn toward the direction of the sun, and as far as its plant shape is concerned, it will be difficult to achieve the ornamental effect of forming a line when viewed from the side and looking like a fan when viewed from the front.
Clivia must be placed in a north-south direction; if not in a north-south direction, the leaves will grow crooked. What should be done if the leaves grow crooked? You can pull two leaves even and clip them together; you can use a playing card to surround them so as not to damage the leaves. Normally, the leaves will be corrected in 15-20 days.
The thick fleshy roots of Clivia, while storing sufficient water, also place higher demands on the soil on which it depends for survival. Only nutrient soil with good air permeability, loose texture, and rich humus is suitable for the growth of Clivia's fleshy roots.
Clivia-tolerant rotten leaves or pine needles must be fermented before use; they cannot be used unfermented. If not fermented, they easily burn the roots. Clivia must have its soil changed once a year.
The time and frequency of repotting and changing soil for Clivia depend on the size of the seedling and the season. Mature Clivia like these need their soil changed once a year. The best time to change the soil is spring and autumn, because Clivia grows vigorously then and changing the soil will not affect plant growth. Take the Clivia out of the pot, cut off rotten roots and old roots with no absorption capacity, and remove spent soil. Cover the drainage hole of the flower pot with a piece of broken pot, fill in 2-5 cm of nutrient soil, take a handful of soil and fill the interior of the roots firmly, then place the plant in the pot, and fill nutrient soil into the pot until it reaches half the pot height, then gently press downward with your hand along the pot edge, so that the roots all stand in the pot and are not easily bent. The key point in changing soil is to firm the soil around the roots. Otherwise, if there is no soil around the roots, water and nutrients cannot reach the roots, easily causing root rot and stuck flower arrows. After changing the nutrient soil, water thoroughly.
In the end, the care knowledge for Clivia is far more than this, and much care knowledge still depends on orchid growers exploring and accumulating in practice. But you do not need to worry, because many Clivia enthusiasts also know that growing Clivia well is quite difficult, but killing it is not easy either. Although this is a joke, it also shows from another side that Clivia is not so delicate. As long as you are hands-on and attentive in ordinary times, you will certainly be able to grow Clivia with luxuriant branches and leaves and bright flowers and red fruits, and life will naturally gain a bit more beauty and pleasure.
2. Four-season care of Clivia
Clivia generally has its pot changed once every 1-2 years in spring before being moved outdoors (flowering plants are better repotted in autumn). Clivia avoids direct strong light. After summer begins, the pot should be moved to a cool place in time. In autumn, light intensity gradually weakens, and light duration should be gradually increased to benefit flower bud differentiation. In winter, indoor air humidity is best kept at 60%-70%. >> Detailed key points for four-season management and care of Clivia
Detailed key points for four-season management and care of Clivia:
1. Clivia is generally repotted once every 1 to 2 years in spring before being moved outdoors (plants in bloom are best repotted in autumn). Because clivia has long roots, a deep pot is best, with a 3 to 4 cm layer of coal cinders or coarse sand at the bottom as a drainage layer, plus a small amount of bone meal as base fertilizer (do not use lump-form base fertilizer, to prevent root rot). After repotting, spray some water on the plant, but do not water immediately, to avoid infection of root wounds; wait 2 to 3 days, then water thoroughly. After moving outdoors, keep it in a half-light, wind-sheltered spot. Water just enough to keep the potting soil moist.
2. Clivia dislikes direct strong light. After summer arrives, move the pot to a shady spot promptly, and water according to the "water when dry, stop when wet" principle. In summer, temperatures are high and sunlight is strong. The key to summer care for clivia is preventing direct strong sunlight and creating a cool environment so it can pass the summer safely. If light, water and fertilizer are poorly managed at this time, the leaves are easily scorched or root rot may occur. For this reason, in summer place the pot where it can receive light in the morning and evening, move it to a shady spot or an indoor spot with bright scattered light around midday, and frequently sprinkle water on the ground to increase humidity and lower temperature. When the temperature rises above 25°C, stop fertilizing.
3. In autumn, light intensity gradually weakens, so gradually increase the light duration to benefit flower bud differentiation. At the same time, apply liquid fertilizer rich in phosphorus and potassium 2 to 3 times. To encourage winter blooming, it must go through a period of low temperature before flowering; that is, in mid-autumn do not rush to move it indoors. Place it in a sunny spot, water less, do not fertilize, and let it undergo about half a month of low-temperature training at around 5°C, then move it indoors. After moving indoors, place it in a spot with ample sunlight and pay attention to proper ventilation. The room temperature should not be lower than 15°C during the day and not lower than 5°C at night. About once a week, wipe the leaves with clean water close to room temperature.
4. In winter, indoor air humidity is best kept at 60% to 70%, and the potting soil just needs to stay moist. Before mature clivia plants send up a flower scape, pay attention to raising the room temperature and strengthening fertilizer and water management, and they will bloom on schedule.
Spring:
Spring sunlight is soft and temperatures are suitable, making it the best period for clivia growth. Properly carrying out spring care for clivia at the right time is crucial for its growth and development that year and beyond, as well as for bud formation and flowering. >>Spring care methods and key points for clivia
Spring sunlight is soft and temperatures are suitable, making it the best period for clivia growth. Properly carrying out spring care for clivia at the right time is crucial for its growth and development that year and beyond, as well as for bud formation and flowering.
Moving outdoors at the right time:
For clivia that has overwintered indoors, as spring temperatures rise, it should be moved outdoors for care at the right time. The suitable time to move it outdoors is generally around Qingming Festival in temperate regions, and about half a month later in cold regions. You can also use the guideline of moving it outdoors when the temperature is above 15°C. One or two days before moving it outdoors, open the windows for ventilation. After moving it outdoors, first place it in a wind-sheltered, semi-shaded spot; after it gradually adapts to the outdoor environment, move it to a sunny, well-ventilated spot to receive full light.
Repotting and division:
The repotting time for mature clivia is generally after flowering in spring; plants that do not bloom in spring can be repotted when moved outdoors. After removing the plant from the pot, remove the old soil and dead roots, and replace with new growing medium to increase nutrients and permeability. Established plants that have reached their final form are still grown in the same pot size, while growing plants use a pot one size larger. For plants that have produced offsets at the base with 3 to 4 leaves and a plant height above 10 cm, division should be carried out together with repotting. Those with roots can be cut away from the mother plant with a sterilized small knife; those without roots can be broken off by hand. Coat the wounds with sulfur powder or plant ash for antisepsis. Rooted individual plants are potted in small pots to establish; those without roots are first cultivated in fine sand, then potted for care after rooting.
Watering and fertilizing:
As spring temperatures continue to rise and the plant enters its early growth stage, water demand increases day by day. The frequency and amount of watering should go from less to more, but keep the potting soil moist as the standard. After slow growth in winter, clivia has little nutrient reserve left in its body, especially after sending up a scape and flowering, when nutrients are almost exhausted. Nutrients must be supplemented at the right time and in the right amount to meet the requirements of spring growth and development. In spring the plant is in the stage of producing new leaves and expanding leaf width, so fertilization should focus on nitrogen fertilizer. After moving outdoors, generally apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days, with the concentration adjusted flexibly according to growth vigor and temperature. If using compound fertilizer, it should be applied at the edge of the pot, and the amount should be small rather than large.
Promoting buds and forcing flowers:
For clivia that tends to send up its scape in late winter and early spring and bloom in early spring, to avoid "stuck scape" at this time due to low temperature and other reasons, which affects flowering, increase the indoor temperature and watering amount 2 to 3 weeks before the scape emerges, and apply liquid fertilizer once every 7 to 10 days or a compound fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium once every half month. You can also water the soil with water at 20°C to 25°C and spray the leaves with water at 25°C to 30°C, keeping the indoor temperature at 10°C to 15°C as much as possible. This can promote the plant to quickly send up the scape and form buds, and bloom on time. Once the flower opens, water less, stop fertilizing, and move the plant to a low-temperature spot to prolong the viewing time.
Pest and disease control:
As temperatures rise, pests and diseases that were dormant begin to become active and spread, damaging the plant and affecting its growth and development. You can use 0.3 to 0.5 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture and spray it on the plant leaves and bulbs once every 10 days, for 2 to 3 times in a row. This both prevents disease and kills overwintering pests.
Summer:
Summer care for clivia is crucial. Effective measures must be taken to ensure clivia passes the summer safely: shade from sunlight, lower temperature and increase humidity, water moderately, and control fertilization. >>Cultivation methods for keeping potted clivia safe through the summer at homeClivia is a valuable potted flower grown for both flowers and foliage, belonging to the Amaryllidaceae family. Its leaves are elegant and sword-shaped, so it is also called sword-leaf stone pistil. The leaf bases overlap into scale-like layers, like a thick fountain gushing from the ground, and are glossy. The clivia flower is broadly funnel-shaped, in an umbel inflorescence, with 10 to 18 flowers gathered into a spherical cluster. The flower stem emerges from the leaf cluster and grows upright. The petals are 6-lobed, and the flowers are orange-red. The flowering period is winter and spring and can last up to one month. Clivia varieties are generally divided into narrow-leaved clivia, large-flowered clivia and nodding clivia; the latter two are commonly cultivated.
Clivia is native to southern Africa and grows beneath large trees, so it fears heat and cannot tolerate cold. It likes semi-shaded and humid environments and fears strong direct sunlight. Its best growing temperature is between 18 and 22; below 5°C or above 30°C, growth is inhibited. Clivia likes ventilated environments and deep, fertile, loose soil, and is suitable for indoor cultivation.
Summer care for clivia is crucial. Effective measures must be taken to ensure clivia passes the summer safely.
Shade from sunlight
In summer, clivia should be placed in a well-ventilated environment without direct strong light. Clivia is a medium-light flower, suited to the soft light of spring and autumn, and not suited to harsh sun exposure. In summer, it is best to place the potted plant under a shade frame, with sunlight filtering through the gaps so the plant receives weaker light. If it can be placed where direct sunlight is blocked at noon but sunlight can be seen in the morning and evening, that is ideal. Generally, summer shading should reach 60% to 70% or more.
Lower temperature and increase humidity
In summer, place clivia in a ventilated spot. If the ambient temperature is above 35°C, water in the soil evaporates too quickly, causing clivia's water and nutrient supply to fall short of demand. Therefore, it is best to place the clivia pot on a water pool or water basin (raised on wooden boards), and frequently spray water around the plant and on the leaf surface to improve the temperature and humidity environment, so it can grow in a small environment below 25°C with humidity of 60% to 70%. This helps it pass the summer safely and can promote summer growth.
Water moderately
Clivia originated in the primitive forests of South Africa, which shaped its special morphological and physiological characteristics. Clivia leaves are broad and soft in texture, requiring higher soil water content and greater air humidity. In hot summer, clivia grows slowly and the roots absorb little water, but leaf surface evaporation is very high. Therefore, clivia must not lack water; otherwise the fleshy roots shrink, the leaves become weak and thin, and lose their luster. When watering, adhere to the principle of watering when half dry, and watering thoroughly when you do water. But do not water as soon as the surface soil looks dry. Otherwise, if the potting soil stays wet for a long time, root rot and yellow leaves are very likely. When watering, be very careful not to let water run into the leaf center, to avoid rotten-heart disease and "beheading."
Watering is an important part of clivia cultivation. For watering clivia, generally choose in the following order: living water, magnetized water, natural rainwater, well water, tap water.
The amount of watering can be based on the following principles: for small pots and small plants, high temperatures, good ventilation, fast transpiration, vigorous growth, and good soil aeration, water more; otherwise water less. Many people think clivia easily rots at the roots, so both watering and fertilizing should be kept small, resulting in clivia being short of water and fertilizer year-round and growing slowly. Experience proves that clivia must have "lots of water and lots of fertilizer." Do not wait until the potting soil is completely dry to water; water when the soil is half dry, keeping it moist often. If the potting soil is too dry and cannot be soaked through at once, place the pot in a basin of water with the water depth at 1/3 of the pot height, and let the soil slowly soak wet.
It is better to use a watering can for watering, and spray evenly. Small and medium clivia can be watered directly on the leaf surface. For mature clivia, especially before and after the scape emerges, never water the leaves, to prevent scape rot. Instead, use a sprayer to spray, but do not let water flow into the flower center, to prevent heart rot, scape rot, or even head rot.
Clivia has well-developed fleshy roots that can store a fair amount of water and has a certain drought tolerance. General experience suggests soil water content of about 30% is suitable. Water when the surface of the potting soil looks dry: in winter once every 3 to 5 days, in spring and autumn once every 1 to 2 days, and in summer increase watering frequency appropriately. Seedlings need less water, and the flowering period needs more. When watering, do not pour water on the leaves to prevent rot. If you notice dust on the leaves, gently wipe the leaf surface with a soft cloth, or lightly brush with a soft-bristled brush. Do not rinse the leaves with water.
Control fertilization
Clivia likes fertilizer, but too much fertilizer causes root rot. Besides base fertilizer, supplementary feeding should use the "light fertilizer, frequent application" method. Apply base fertilizer when repotting. In spring and autumn, apply fermented solid fertilizer once a month, and liquid fertilizer once a week. In winter and summer, it is best not to apply supplementary fertilizer; the whole plant can rely on nutrients accumulated in spring and autumn to grow slowly. When applying solid fertilizer, open the potting soil and bury it 2 cm deep, not directly touching the roots, to avoid burning them. When applying liquid fertilizer, for small seedlings a fertilizer-to-water ratio of 1:40 is better, and for large and medium seedlings 1:20 is better. The best time to fertilize is early morning, and avoid splashing it on the leaves. After applying liquid fertilizer, water once promptly, but the water need not be too much; on one hand it dissolves the fertilizer, and on the other it rinses the newly grown fleshy roots to prevent damaging new roots. Fertilizer types should be emphasized differently by season. In winter and spring, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, such as bone meal; in autumn, apply more nitrogen fertilizer, such as soybean cake water; in summer, foliar feeding is commonly used, spraying the leaf surface with 0.1% monopotassium phosphate or superphosphate. Foliar feeding can be done all year round.
Clivia is suited to soil rich in humus. This kind of soil has good aeration and good water permeability, is fertile, and is slightly acidic (pH 6.5). Mixing about 20% sand grains into the humus soil helps root cultivation. When planting, increase pot size gradually as the plant grows. For one-year-old seedlings, use a 3-inch pot. In the second year, switch to a 5-inch pot, and afterward repot into a pot one size larger every 1 to 2 years. Repotting can be done in spring and autumn.
In summer, temperatures are high and clivia is in a semi-dormant or dormant state. Therefore, fertilization should be controlled, applying as little as possible or none at all. Because during this period its root absorption capacity is weak, if fertilizer is applied or applied a bit too much, the fertilizer accumulates around the roots over time and easily causes root rot and stem rot. However, during this period, if the temperature of the clivia growing environment is lowered below 25°C, then some dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied appropriately to promote growth and shorten dormancy; if the temperature drops below 20°C and humidity also meets the requirement, then fertilize as usual.
Autumn:
After the Beginning of Autumn, clivia enters its golden growth stage. In terms of care, the following points must be handled well: first, move indoors at the right time; second, repot promptly; third, prepare the potting soil well; fourth, break off offsets and divide plants; fifth, pay attention to fertilizing; sixth, control watering; seventh, increase light. >>Seven key points to grasp in autumn care of clivia
After the Beginning of Autumn, clivia enters its golden growth stage. In terms of care, the following points must be handled well:
First, move indoors at the right time
To make clivia bloom normally, do not rush to move it indoors in autumn. It should undergo low-temperature treatment outdoors at around 5°C for about 10 days. During this period, water less, stop fertilizing, and give proper light during the day. Clivia can endure short periods of low temperature around 0°C, and short periods around 5°C will not harm it. After low-temperature treatment, move it indoors and care for it at 10°C to 15°C in a spot without direct sunlight.
Second, repot promptly
Growing a large plant in a small pot is not good for plant growth. Based on years of experience, clivia with 2 to 4 leaves should use a 10 cm pot, 5 to 8 leaves a 13 cm pot, 9 to 12 leaves a 17 cm pot, 13 to 16 leaves a 23 cm pot, and 17 leaves or more a 27 to 33 cm pot. Do not use plastic pots, porcelain pots or southern clay pots; simple-style pottery or tile pots are best.
Third, prepare the potting soil well
For clivia potting soil, it is best to use a mixed soil of leaf mold, river sand and furnace ash in a 6:2:2 ratio. If there is no leaf mold, you can also use horse manure soil, river sand and furnace ash in a 5:3:2 ratio. Do not use clay soil or alkaline soil.
Fourth, break off offsets and divide plants
If a mature clivia has grown offsets and they already have 5 or more leaves, take advantage of autumn repotting to break off the offsets. Coat the wounds with charcoal powder or fine furnace ash, then divide and pot them.
Fifth, pay attention to fertilizing
In autumn, clivia grows vigorously and needs a relatively large amount of fertilizer. Besides placing some fermented soybean cake residue, bone meal, roasted hemp seeds or rabbit manure at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer when repotting, you can also place some roasted perilla seeds, dried sesame, pig blood powder, etc. on the upper part of the potting soil. If conditions permit, apply fermented soybean cake water or fishy water once every half month.
Sixth, control watering
Compared with summer, watering of clivia in autumn should be relatively reduced. Keeping the potting soil moist is enough; do not water unless it is thoroughly dry, as too much water easily causes root rot.
Seventh, increase light
After the Beginning of Autumn, remove the summer shading facilities and let clivia see as much sunlight as possible. If indoors is shaded and there is too little sunlight, you can also supplement with lamplight for 1 to 2 hours; red light is best, not white light.
Winter:
For potted clivia in winter, special attention should be paid to strengthening fertilizer and water management, soil management, temperature management, and adjusting light. >>Potted clivia needs strengthened care in winterClivia likes warmth and light and cannot tolerate cold. For potted clivia in winter, special attention should be paid to strengthening the following management.
Fertilizer and water management
Apply less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Eggshell powder and thoroughly decomposed fishy water are very good phosphorus fertilizers, while chaff ash and tobacco ash are easily obtained potassium fertilizers. You can also apply nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer to promote the sprouting of more new plants and leaves. Fertilization must be moderate; never apply concentrated fertilizer or unfermented raw fertilizer, otherwise it easily causes leaf tip scorching or rot. In winter, if new leaves show spots and the root system turns yellow, it indicates too much fertilizer; if new leaves are narrow, thin and especially pale in color, it indicates fertilizer deficiency.
Soil management
The soil should not be too dry or too wet. Each watering must be thorough, and after buds appear, water a bit more. About every 20 days, combine watering with applying fermented soybean cake water, dilute fishy water or water from soaking horse hooves, etc., combining watering and fertilizing. When room temperature is low, control watering to prevent the potting soil from becoming too wet and causing root rot and death.
Temperature management
The suitable temperature for clivia in winter is 15°C to 20°C, and it is best not to go below 10°C. After the scape starts to rise, the temperature should be kept at around 18°C, and the day-night temperature difference is best around 10°C; otherwise the flower scape will bloom before reaching proper height, easily forming a "stuck scape." Therefore, when the outdoor temperature at night drops below 10°C, move it indoors. When the indoor temperature drops below 10°C, besides covering the surface of the potting soil with a 1 cm layer of charcoal powder for insulation, also place it in a sunny, warm spot indoors. When the indoor temperature is especially low, you can cover the pot with plastic film to raise the temperature, but the temperature inside the cover must not exceed 25°C; if it does, ventilate to cool it down.
Adjusting light
After clivia is moved indoors, light is restricted, so the pot must be moved manually to adjust it. Usually, during the day it should be placed in a sunny spot indoors so it receives sunlight. Before flowering, at night it should also be placed under a fluorescent lamp for supplementary indoor light. Because clivia's two rows of leaves are opposite each other, if light stays in one position for a long time, the leaves will grow unevenly and affect the ornamental effect. For this reason, when adjusting light, pay attention to the direction of the leaves and change the side facing the sun about every 10 days.
3. Hydroponic clivia
To grow clivia hydroponically, first choose a good container. Generally, a transparent glass container is best. If growing one seedling, a glass jar is enough. For specific methods, see >>Methods and key care points for hydroponic cliviaClivia can also be grown hydroponically. The method is as follows:
Container selection
To grow clivia hydroponically, first choose a good container. Generally, a transparent glass container is best. If growing one seedling, a glass jar is enough. If growing a large number hydroponically, you can weave a metal mesh with openings of one centimeter using thin iron wire, and make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the hydroponic box with the metal mesh, insert the clivia seedlings through the mesh openings into the nutrient solution, with the depth of the flower roots in the solution limited so that it does not cover the pseudobulb at the base. Nutrient solution preparation: Nutrient solutions are divided into inorganic and organic types. Inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 g, ferrous sulfate 0.01 g, urea g, monopotassium phosphate 1 g, magnesium sulfate 0.5 g. After these 5 inorganic salts are all prepared, dissolve them in 1000 g of water and it is ready to use. Organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: roasted hemp seed meal 100 g, bone meal (made from unsalted fresh bones) 100 g, soybean cake powder 150 g, roasted sesame powder 50 g, then dissolve in 1000 g of water. Comparing the two nutrient solutions, the organic fertilizer has rich components but low nutrient content, while the inorganic fertilizer has relatively simple components but strong fertilizer effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply inorganic fertilizer once a week and organic fertilizer once every 5 days.
Water used
For hydroponic clivia, do not use tap water directly; it must be "aged" water. So-called "aged" water means putting tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3 to 5 days, so that chlorides such as bleaching powder, which are harmful to clivia roots, settle out. In "aged" water, from the appearance, the sediment changes from strip-like to clump-like, and the water color is best when green. After the water is well aged, the water level covering the roots must not cover the pseudobulb. If the water level is too shallow, clivia cannot get sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (covering the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If the roots turn somewhat yellow or black, it indicates that the water lacks both oxygen and nutrients, and the water must be changed immediately.
Air, sunlight, temperature. Whether the ventilation around the roots of hydroponic clivia can be handled well is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. After a period of cultivation, a layer of blue-green algae grows on the roots of hydroponic clivia. When the algae layer is too thick, it seriously affects root respiration and corrodes the nutrient solution. At this time, use a soft, clean bristle brush to gently brush away the algae layer on the roots (it need not be brushed very clean, since a small amount of algae on the roots has little effect).
In addition, frequently check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The checking method is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim freely back and forth in the water, it means the water is not short of oxygen. If the small fish always float to the surface, with mouth and gills exposed to breathe, it means the water is short of oxygen. Once oxygen deficiency is found in the water, oxygen must be replenished. There are two methods: one is changing the water, and the other is using a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight handling, clivia is a semi-shade, semi-sun plant, so pay attention to light. Especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light.
According to the light-facing characteristic of clivia leaves, pay attention to making the leaves receive light evenly; otherwise the leaves will differ in length and the growth direction will become staggered front and back. Generally, adjust the light angle once every two or three days. In terms of temperature handling, the ambient temperature for mature clivia is best at 11°C to 25°C, while seedlings can be a bit higher, 20°C to 35°C. When growing clivia in water, master the day-night temperature difference. In winter, keep it around 20°C during the day and not lower than 15°C at night.
4. Pest and disease control for clivia
Clivia root rot
Clivia root rot can occur in all four seasons, but it occurs mostly in summer, mainly caused by the specific environment of high temperature and high humidity and by the cultivator's lack of care knowledge. >>Causes of clivia root rot and rescue methods
Clivia root rot can occur in all four seasons, but it occurs mostly in summer, mainly caused by the specific environment of high temperature and high humidity and by the cultivator's lack of care knowledge.
Causes of clivia root rot:
When potting, the wounds were not disinfected, and root rot pathogens invaded through the wounds;
During transplanting and repotting, the root system was damaged;
Improper fertilization during the growing period caused reverse osmosis, leading to root dehydration, drying and death;
Too much water accumulated in the pot, causing root rot; soil alkalinization, potting soil compaction, poor water and air permeability, etc.
Some people, for aesthetics, grow clivia in porcelain pots, plastic pots or purple clay pots, which have poor air and water permeability. After watering in summer, because the pot has poor permeability and air circulation is difficult, root respiration is blocked, causing root rot.
Some, although growing clivia in clay pots, fear that in summer it lacks water and fertilizer, so they water as soon as the pot surface looks dry (when in fact the potting soil is still wet), and often apply concentrated fertilizer. When root respiration is suffocated, concentrated fertilizer burns the roots, and in summer some harmful bacteria multiply quickly, root rot occurs.
Whether clivia is in the vegetative growth stage (seedling stage to before flowering) or the reproductive growth stage (after flowering begins), its suitable growth temperature is 5 to 25°C. Generally, because home cultivation of clivia lacks the necessary equipment, one should proceed from actual conditions. In hot, humid summer, besides taking measures such as shading, ventilation and cooling, one should proceed from the angle of controlling its growth (keeping the plant in a dormant or semi-dormant state, which benefits growth and development in other seasons), and strengthen root care in summer. The methods are: first, use clay pots for growing clivia; second, do not fertilize in summer or apply only a little dilute liquid fertilizer; third, control watering in summer and insist on not watering until the soil is thoroughly dry. To prevent excessive water in summer from suffocating the roots, you can use a large wooden box filled with wet sawdust and bury the pot in it (do not water inside the pot), then check frequently and spray water when the sawdust is dry.
Solutions for clivia root rot
If root rot unfortunately occurs, rescue it quickly. First knock the root-rotted clivia out of the pot, remove the soil, cut off the rotten roots, wash the roots with clean water, then apply potassium permanganate aqueous solution to the rotten root areas, then wrap all the leaves with white paper, exposing the roots. Face the roots toward the sun and sun them for half an hour, using ultraviolet rays to kill pathogens. After the above treatment, if only a few roots of the diseased plant have rotted, it can be planted directly into disinfected nutrient soil, watered less for the first half month, and can recover growth in one and a half months; if more than half or all of the roots have rotted, then plant it in a pot filled with fine sand and place it in a shady spot to sprout new roots. After about two months, when new roots have grown, replace with nutrient soil and normal care can proceed.
Spring is the season of vigorous growth for clivia, but due to improper water and fertilizer management, root rot easily occurs. The main reasons are as follows: first, too much water; second, the soil is too raw; third, the fertilizer was not well fermented; fourth, too much fertilizer causes root rot; fifth, using porcelain pots or plastic pots with very poor air permeability to grow clivia; sixth, the temperature is too high. >>Causes and control methods of clivia root rot in spring
Spring is the season of vigorous growth for clivia, but due to improper water and fertilizer management, root rot easily occurs. The main reasons are as follows:
First, too much water
Whether small seedlings or large plants, water must not be applied in excess. When there is too much water, the temperature is high, and ventilation is poor, clivia will certainly suffer root rot.
Second, the soil is too raw
Whether using leaf mold, horse manure soil or peat soil to prepare nutrient soil, it must be fully fermented. If some raw soil is put into the pot, under high temperature conditions, after this raw soil ferments it will generate high heat and burn the fleshy roots.
Third, the fertilizer was not well fermented
When applying soybean cake, hemp seeds, fishy water, etc. to clivia, they must be fully fermented. If some raw fertilizer is applied to the potting soil, it will also generate high heat and burn the fleshy roots.
Fourth, too much fertilizer causes root rot
In particular, do not apply excessive chemical fertilizer, because chemical fertilizer is too stimulating. Although it can promote rapid leaf growth in the short term, excessive fertilization damages the fleshy roots too much and easily causes shrinkage and root rot.
Fifth, using porcelain pots or plastic pots with very poor air permeability to grow clivia
Because air permeability is poor, the roots and stems are smothered and rot.
Sixth, the temperature is too high
Especially during the seedling period, keeping the bottom temperature at 22°C is enough, but some people put the seedling pot or box on a hot kang or radiator for a long time, and as a result quickly smother and rot the roots of the seedlings.
Based on the above situations, if we take targeted preventive measures, clivia root rot can be avoided.
But if unfortunately, you find that clivia has already suffered root rot, there is no need to worry. Just knock the plant out of the pot, cut off the rotten roots, coat the cuts with charcoal or tobacco ash, then replace the soil and repot. If the fleshy roots have all rotted, it does not matter either. You can pinch off all the rotten roots, then wash the roots and stems with clean water, then place them in coarse sand to encourage rooting, and cut off part of the leaves.
Clivia leaf rot
When clivia leaves rot, first take the leaf-rotted clivia out of the flower pot and remove the soil attached to the root crown. Then peel off the rotten outer leaves of the clivia, sprinkle a layer of clean plant ash on the wounds, let it dry slightly, then repot it with growing medium. >>Remedial measures for clivia leaf rot (yellow leaves)When clivia leaves rot, first take the leaf-rotted clivia out of the flower pot and remove the soil attached to the root crown. Then peel off the rotten outer leaves of the clivia, sprinkle a layer of clean plant ash on the wounds, let it dry slightly, then repot it with growing medium.
Be sure to expose the root crown and wounds outside the soil, and handle it in a warm, ventilated place. When watering, be sure not to let water cover the wounds. After repotting, once a week you can use 50% Tuzet or similar, or use it to wash the leaf surface for disinfection and sterilization.
When watering, never pour water into the leaves; pour it at the roots, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow and rot. Clivia has fleshy stems and can store water, so it does not need frequent watering. Experienced growers usually tap the flower pot with a finger. If the sound is dull, it means there is sufficient water and no watering is needed. Conversely, if it is crisp and loud, water immediately.
Also, when watering, it must be thorough at one time. Never water just a little at a time like a dragonfly skimming the water; that is as good as not watering and is extremely harmful to clivia. Clivia likes shade and must not be placed in direct sun, otherwise the leaf surface will turn yellow. Clivia must be placed in a well-ventilated environment, with ventilation morning and evening.
Clivia not blooming
Some clivia have been cultivated for a year without blooming. There may be three reasons: first, the winter temperature is too high; second, too much nitrogen fertilizer was used; third, the summer light duration is too long and the light intensity is too strong. >>Causes and solutions for abnormal flowering in clivia
Some clivia have been cultivated for a year without blooming. There may be three reasons:
First, the winter temperature is too high and affects dormancy;
Second, when too much nitrogen fertilizer is used and phosphorus fertilizer is lacking, bud formation and flowering are also affected;
Third, in summer, too long light duration and too strong light intensity are also very unfavorable to bud formation and flowering.
For this, when cultivating clivia, attention should be paid to giving a slightly lower temperature in winter, with room temperature preferably 11 to 17°C. To increase the bottom temperature of the potting soil, move the pot onto a radiator at night (keeping it at 25°C), and move it back to a sunny windowsill during the day, letting it get sufficient dormancy.
In summer, it should be placed in a slightly shaded spot. Starting in June, gradually move the pot back from the sunny window; in August it can be 1 meter away from the windowsill, sometimes placed on the floor; in October put it back on the sunny windowsill, always avoiding strong direct sunlight. In fertilization, pay attention to applying phosphorus fertilizer appropriately.
5. Still have questions?
What kind of flower pot is best for growing clivia? What kind of soil is best for cultivating clivia? What should be noted when watering clivia? What fertilizer is good for clivia? ... To see the answers to these questions, go to >>How to grow clivia: answers to common questions1. What kind of flower pot is best for growing clivia?
Answer: Clivia has fleshy roots and strong drought resistance, but it fears waterlogging, so it requires not only loose soil with good water permeability and air permeability, but also a flower pot with excellent water permeability and air permeability. An unglazed clay pot, also called a plain fired pot, fully meets these two conditions. Therefore, an unglazed clay pot is best for planting clivia.
2. What kind of soil is best for cultivating clivia?
Answer: According to the physiological characteristics of clivia, the soil is required to be loose and breathable, with good water retention and fertilizer retention, and to be relatively fertile, so as to suit the root growth of clivia. Leaf mold has these characteristics. Therefore, leaf mold is best. Leaf mold includes oak leaf soil, oak leaf soil, hazel leaf soil, and larch needle soil, etc. Naturally decomposed leaf soil must be used, and it must not contain other impurities. According to different needs, different sieves can be used to sift out suitable particle sizes. Use small particles for planting seedlings, and larger particles for mature clivia.
3. What issues should be noted when watering clivia?
Answer: Water is the source of all things and also a necessary condition for growing clivia well. First, choose good water quality, requiring a pH that is neutral and slightly acidic. When using tap water to water flowers, the water must be aged, that is, left in a container for two or three days before use. It is even better to place it in sunlight. Well water or other water should also preferably be left for one or two days in the flower cellar or where the flowers are placed, so that the water temperature is consistent with the flower soil temperature before watering, so as to avoid harm to the flowers caused by too great a temperature difference between water and soil. The best time to water is in the morning or evening, and the interval between waterings should be determined according to the dryness and wetness of the potting soil, and cannot be formulized. You can water directly onto the stems and leaves of the plant, but for large flowers, especially those with flower stalks or large flowers in bloom, do not water directly onto the leaves, as this will cause the flower stalk to rot or affect pollination results. In summer, when the temperature is high and the weather is hot, the leaf temperature of the flowers is very high, so do not water the leaves at noon, to prevent clivia from catching a "cold" and to prevent damage to the leaves.
4. What fertilizer is best for clivia?
Answer: Clivia is a flower that likes fertilizer. Fertilizer is crucial to the growth of clivia, and organic fertilizer is best for clivia. Organic fertilizer is made by composting and fermenting raw materials and applying them after they are decomposed. For example, those with a relatively high nitrogen content include soybean cake, castor seeds, soybeans, hemp seeds, forest seeds, and other oil crops. Those with a relatively high phosphorus content include bone meal, fish scales, rice bran, and poultry manure, etc. Those with a relatively high potassium content include plant ash, charcoal, and rice straw ash, etc. The growth of clivia cannot do without the three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Some fine cinder, river sand, eggshells, etc. can also be mixed into the soil to increase the content of trace elements.
5. How do you compost fertilizer for clivia?
Answer: Organic fertilizer must undergo a composting and fermentation process, so that the raw materials can be turned into fertilizer. Unfermented raw materials cannot be used directly as fertilizer. Before composting fertilizer, the raw materials should be crushed and subjected to high-temperature treatment such as steaming and boiling. This can not only sterilize them but also shorten the fermentation time. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers to be composted are best placed in different containers. Add 1/3 raw materials and 1/3 water, and do not fill the container full, so as to avoid overflowing during fermentation. Do not cover the lid too tightly, so that gas can be released from the container during fermentation. It is best to use wide-mouth plastic buckets as containers, because plastic buckets do not rust and are convenient to access with a wide mouth. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizer can also be mixed and composted in a certain proportion. The length of fermentation time depends on the temperature. The higher the temperature, the faster the fermentation. Summer is a good time to ferment fertilizer. To judge whether the fertilizer has fermented well, observe whether it smells foul, and for materials that have not been crushed, such as soybeans, check whether there is still a hard core. Well-fermented fertilizer smells foul and is sticky, smooth, and fine. This kind of fertilizer is then ready to use.
6. How do you add base fertilizer for clivia?
Answer: Adding base fertilizer means adding some fried or boiled shelled oil crops, such as hemp seeds, perilla seeds, sunflower seeds, castor seeds, and bone meal particles, etc., to the bottom of the flower pot when changing pots and soil. This is commonly called solid fertilizer. The method of adding base fertilizer is to first put a layer of soil at the bottom of the pot, evenly sprinkle a layer of raw materials on the soil, cover with another layer of soil, and then plant the flower directly on top, thus completing the whole process of adding base fertilizer. Be sure not to let the raw materials come into direct contact with the roots. The characteristic of adding base fertilizer is that the fertilizer effect is long-lasting and uniform, and the fertility slowly seeps out from the cracks in the shells of the oil crops and is absorbed by the flower roots. Generally, the method of adding base fertilizer is often used when changing soil in autumn.
7. How do you add side fertilizer for clivia?
Answer: The so-called side fertilizer uses the same raw materials as base fertilizer, except that side fertilizer means that after planting the flower in the pot, a ring of soil is pushed aside at the edge of the pot, and shelled oil crops are evenly scattered around the edge of the pot, but they must not directly touch the flower pot. A layer of soil should be placed between them, and they should not be right against the pseudobulb of the flower, nor buried too deep, nor directly touch the roots, and then another layer of soil should be covered on top. The characteristic of side fertilizer is that the solid fertilizer does not directly contact the roots and slowly penetrates from top to bottom. It can be used when changing soil in both spring and autumn. Family clivia growing can use the method of adding base fertilizer or side fertilizer to prevent the foul smell of water and fertilizer from polluting the home environment.
8. How do you apply liquid fertilizer as a top dressing for clivia?
Answer: Clivia is a flower that likes fertilizer, especially in the three growing seasons of spring, autumn, and winter, when water-soluble fertilizer must be applied as a top dressing. The method of top dressing is to dilute the prepared fertilizer stock solution with water by 10-25 times. Top dressing methods: one is to directly pour diluted fertilizer water into the pot. The steps are to first dilute the fertilizer stock solution 10-15 times, water the soil in the flower pot once with a spray pot to moisten it, then directly pour the diluted water into the pot, and then rinse the pot once with water, thus completing the whole process of top dressing. The other is fertilizer soaking, also called sitting fertilizer. The steps are: dilute the fertilizer stock solution 20-25 times. Place it in a large container, immerse the flower pot directly in the fertilizer water, and use a spoon to repeatedly pour the fertilizer water into the pot until it is thoroughly soaked, then take it out and rinse the flower pot once with water, and after draining, the whole process of sitting fertilizer is completed. The former method is suitable for top dressing with water-soluble fertilizer over a large area, while the latter method adds fertilizer water more evenly but is more time-consuming and troublesome, and is suitable for small areas or household cultivation and for cultivating some high-grade, specially bred varieties in flower cellars.
9. Why does mature clivia fail to bloom?
Answer: There are many reasons why mature clivia fails to bloom. First, the soil has not been changed for a long time, and the soil is seriously lacking in phosphorus fertilizer and other elements. Second, root rot causes poor nutrient absorption, leading to failure to bloom. Third, long-term drought and lack of water lead to failure to bloom. The improvement methods are as follows: mature clivia must have its soil changed and the pot turned, and more phosphorus-containing fertilizers such as bone meal and fish scales should be added. For mature clivia with root rot, focus on growing the roots, and mix more sand or fine cinder into the soil so that the root system recovers as quickly as possible. For those suffering from long-term drought and lack of water, the whole pot must be soaked, to prevent the false appearance that large amounts of water are poured but all flow out through drought cracks while the soil is still dry. As long as the above methods are adopted, mature clivia will definitely bloom with gorgeous flowers.
10. What causes flower stalk clamping in clivia, and what should be done?
Answer: Flower stalk clamping when mature clivia blooms is a problem often encountered by clivia growers. So-called flower stalk clamping means that the flower stalk has not emerged but the flowers have already opened. There are many causes of flower stalk clamping, and different measures should be taken to improve each cause. First, the temperature difference is small, especially for clivia cultivated indoors at home, where the daytime and nighttime temperatures are similar, with a temperature difference of only 2-3 degrees, which is not conducive to stalk emergence. The improvement method is to place it on a windowsill during the day and in a place 5-10 degrees lower than the windowsill temperature at night. In this way, an artificial small-temperature-difference environment is created, and the stalk can emerge. Second, too much water and fertilizer keeps the root system in an oxygen-deficient state, and too much fertilizer easily damages the roots. The improvement method is to turn the soil, wash the roots, and dry the roots. After washing the root system with clean water, dry it in a cool place for 4-5 hours, then replace it with new nutrient soil, and after a few days the stalk can emerge. Third, root rot and root withering are caused by long-term failure to water thoroughly. The improvement method is to replace with new soil and water thoroughly, cultivate new roots, and after the new roots grow, the stalk will emerge accordingly. Other causes, such as too high a temperature or too low a temperature, can be improved by prescribing the right remedy for the condition. The phenomenon of flower stalk clamping caused by physiological defects shared by varieties such as Quelan and Huanglan currently has no good solution, and this is a new topic in clivia cultivation research.
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