Bougainvillea Root-Exposed Bonsai Picture Gallery
Chinese name: Bougainvillea Root-Exposed Bonsai
Latin scientific name: Bougainvillea spectabilis Willd
Family and genus: Nyctaginaceae, Bougainvillea genus
The purpose of exposing the roots in bonsai is to reveal the more wondrous and varied forms beneath the trunk that inspire admiration. Bougainvillea root-exposed bonsai can add a great deal of color to bougainvillea bonsai. This article collects some pictures for flower lovers' reference.
Root-exposing and root-revealing method: If you want the root system of a tree-stump bonsai to be exposed above the pot surface, so as to add an antique, venerable look to the bonsai, you can raise the roots upward year by year when repotting, so that the lower new roots grow deep, and appropriately thin out the roots raised above the pot surface, removing the fine ones and keeping the thick ones. Some soar and claw like flying dragons, some poke out their heads and drill with their tails, like coiling dragons entering caves, each displaying its own splendor.
How to Make a Bougainvillea Bonsai: Bougainvillea Bonsai Making Methods
Bougainvillea bonsai has a distinctive shape, lush branches and leaves, brilliant colors, and high ornamental value. Placing a bougainvillea bonsai at home is very pleasing to the eye. Today, the wed114 wedding editor will introduce how to make a bougainvillea bonsai.
How to Make a Bougainvillea Bonsai
Making a bougainvillea bonsai is relatively easy. According to the condition of the potted bougainvillea, it can be made into different styles such as single-trunk style, double-trunk style, slanting-trunk style, curved-trunk style, lying-trunk style, water-and-land style, waterside style, cliff style, pagoda style, flower-basket style, and so on.
The shaping method for bougainvillea bonsai is mainly pruning, with tying and wiring as a supplement. For young trees, wiring can be done according to shaping needs, and several bougainvillea plants of different flower colors and varieties can also be planted together for approach grafting as needed.
Below, the editor will specifically introduce several methods for making bougainvillea bonsai.
Flower-basket style: That is, on the premise of pruning the bougainvillea into a large flat plane, at the diagonal corners of the bougainvillea plane, leave one branch each that is 500-600mm long, gently bend the bougainvillea branches inward, overlap them at 100-200mm, and tie them together to form the carrying handle of a flower basket. The flower-basket-style bougainvillea bonsai is then complete.
Pagoda style: Cut off all the side branches of the bougainvillea, leaving only one or three upward upright branches. If three are left, they must be tied or braided together. When they grow to the ideal height, cut off the tips to make them sprout side buds. At intervals of 400-500mm, remove excess buds to form a multi-pagoda style.
Cliff style: This uses the binding method to make part of the bougainvillea branches droop, shaped like a cliff. The cliff-style bougainvillea bonsai is then complete.
Approach Grafting Method for Different Varieties
Plant several bougainvillea plants in the same pot, with 3 cm between the stems and branches. After they grow normally, at a suitable height (determined according to the shape), use plastic-covered wire to tie and bind them tightly and secure them. After the bougainvillea has grown into shape, loosen the binding, use a knife to shave off the outer bark at the junction of the stems and branches, align the cambium layers, and carry out approach grafting.
After approach grafting, the bougainvillea branches are still tied tightly (to prevent rain and watering at the wound). After they have grown firmly and formed one body, remove the binding wire. The part below the approach graft can be regarded as the root, and can be bent and shaped according to one's own needs, or matched with stone to form a root-clasping-stone. Strengthen management. The part above the approach graft will grow many branches, which can be pruned according to the desired intention, cutting away excess branches.
When pruning bougainvillea branches, do not prune blindly; you must have an overall conception of the bonsai style. The branches remaining after pruning should then be further wired and shaped. As time goes by, the part below the approach graft will form a new trunk, but its surface will be rough and uneven, making it appear even more vigorous and antique.
Bougainvillea Bonsai Care Methods
Full sun exposure: Bougainvillea is a plant that likes high temperatures and strong sunlight, and bougainvillea bonsai should always be placed in a sunny spot. Sufficient sunlight is beneficial for the growth and flowering of bougainvillea. Bougainvillea bonsai treated with strong sunlight has shorter internodes, solid growth, more flowers, deeper flower color, and a longer flowering period.
Timely pruning: Bougainvillea has a long growth period and fast growth speed, so it must be pruned and pinched in time to fix and maintain the plant shape. Pinching helps bougainvillea bonsai produce new shoots and bloom more. Bougainvillea bonsai is generally pruned in spring and summer. Pruning after mid-August will affect flowering, so it should not be done again. Bougainvillea bonsai needs to have inner branches, weak branches, leggy branches, crossing branches, and so on pruned off.
Strict water control: Bougainvillea should begin water control 5 weeks before flowering (that is, around mid-August). After watering once, wait until the leaves and young buds all droop before watering again. Repeat this treatment until flower buds appear in the leaf axils at the branch tips, then gradually resume normal watering. Withholding water increases the cell sap concentration of the bougainvillea bonsai, thereby promoting flower bud differentiation and formation.
Proper fertilization: Bougainvillea is very sensitive to urea. If the fertilization period and ratio are improper, it may produce the phenomenon of bougainvillea bonsai having lush branches and leaves but few flowers. Therefore, special caution is required when applying urea. In summer, when the temperature is high and there is more rain, the plant is prone to leggy growth, so urea should not be applied alone; some fertilizer made by composting waste vegetables can be applied.
When conditions permit, a 0.2-0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be used as a foliar top dressing, once every half month. In the early stage of flower branch growth, bougainvillea bonsai still needs one application of urea to facilitate flower branch growth.
Summary: The above are the bougainvillea bonsai making methods introduced by the editor. Everyone has also enjoyed so many bougainvillea bonsai pictures and learned how to make bougainvillea bonsai. Why not try making a bougainvillea bonsai at home to delight body and mind. I hope the editor's introduction can be helpful to you.
Summary of Common Bougainvillea Questions [Pictures] Resource Sharing
Picture: Bougainvillea
[Common Questions] What are the common questions about bougainvillea?
[Question 1] Why does bougainvillea drop a large number of leaves?
[Answer] The main reasons are as follows:
A. Pot soil alternating suddenly between dry and wet, insufficient watering in midsummer, and excessive watering in winter can all easily cause a large number of fallen leaves.
B. Insufficient light, with the plant kept in a dark corner for a long time, easily causes leaf drop.
C. Temperature alternating between high and low, with too great a change in a short time, easily causes leaf drop.
D. Excessive fertilizer concentration can cause the leaves to scorch and fall overnight.
[Question 2] How can bougainvillea be made to bloom in a short time?
[Answer] When the leaves of newly sprouted branches turn dark green and the branches become solid, use a 750-fold paclobutrazol aqueous solution or a 1000-fold chlormequat aqueous solution, applying 2-3 kg of the solution per pot, then move it to a cool place, and after 3-5 days move it to a place with better light. After 10-15 days of cultivation, the plant will bloom one after another.
[Question 3] How do you repot bougainvillea?
[Answer]
1. Prepare the soil and the pot to be changed. The soil should be rich in organic matter, loose, and fertile. It is best to mix in some sawdust or tree leaves and compost it yourself for more than one year into mature soil. Generally, the new pot should be somewhat larger than the old pot to facilitate better plant growth.
2. Repotting time: once every three years, generally before the flowers sprout during the Spring Festival, so that after repotting the flowers directly enter root growth and sprouting. The bougainvillea I cultivate is repotted in all four seasons, even when it is flowering. Because the large roots of bougainvillea store a large amount of nutrients and water, replacing one-third or even one-half of the soil and cutting one-third of the fine roots has no effect at all on the whole plant. Fine roots are like the gastric mucosa of a person; their regenerative ability is very strong. Even if you do not replace them, they will often die on their own. After repotting, the soil is loose, oxygen is sufficient, new roots grow faster, the ability to absorb fertilizer is stronger, and the plant grows more vigorously.
3. Repotting method: actually simple but skillful. For a small pot, just use the right index finger and middle finger to grip the plant base, turn the pot upside down, hook the left hand over the drainage hole, and lift; the whole pot of soil will come out. If it does not come out, rest the edge of the pot against a high flower bed edge or balcony railing and gently tap it downward, and it will also come out. If it is really too tight to come out, lay the pot on its side and use a hard wooden stick or iron rod smaller than the drainage hole to push from the drainage hole, and it can also come out. For relatively large potted flowers that are hard to move, first pry the soil around the pot loose and remove it to reduce weight and friction, then grip the base and lift it out.
[Question 4] How do you water bougainvillea?
[Answer] When bougainvillea is not flowering, it needs proper water control, which helps it bloom as soon as possible. If the seedling is not very small and grows vigorously, it is fine not to water for 3 or 4 days. In summer, you can be a little more diligent, but you should master it flexibly according to your own situation.
[Editor's Comments] The above are several common questions about bougainvillea compiled by the First Agricultural Economics editor. I hope they are helpful to you. For more related materials, such as"Bougainvillea Cultivation Methods and Precautions", "Bougainvillea Bonsai Shaping", "Summary of Common Bougainvillea Questions", "Bougainvillea Cutting Propagation Methods", "Common Bougainvillea Pest and Disease Control", please follow the relevant columns or special topic channels of First Agricultural Economics. Thank you for your support and attention to First Agricultural Economics!