Key points of potted fig cultivation techniques
The fig is a perennial tree with smooth branches, a graceful form, distinctive leaves, and sweet, delicious, highly nutritious fruit. Potted figs combine ornamental and tasting functions, making them uniquely appealing. The cultivation techniques are as follows:
1. Potting containers and potting soil
Clay pots, porcelain pots, cement pots, wooden boxes and wooden barrels with good air permeability can all be used to grow figs, but the size must be appropriate; a diameter of 40 cm to 50 cm is best, and it must not be smaller than 30 cm. The height can be similar to the pot diameter, or slightly greater than the pot diameter. The potting soil should be loose, rich in organic matter, and good at retaining fertilizer and water and at allowing air through; humus soil from under broad-leaved mountain forests is ideal.
2. Planting method
Use one-year-old strong seedlings and plant them in the pot after leaf fall or before bud break in spring. Before planting, first fill the pot more than half full with nutrient soil and firm it down. Water the seedling to be transplanted thoroughly first, and immediately after the water soaks in, transplant it into the pot with the soil ball, keeping as many roots as possible, then add soil so that the roots are in close contact with the soil, with the soil surface level with the pot rim. After watering and settling, the soil surface should be 2 cm to 3 cm below the pot rim. The direct-in-pot cutting method can also be used: before the sap flows in early spring, cut thick, sturdy one-year-old branches as cuttings, cut them into 20 cm segments, and insert them directly into the pot. Because fig branches root very easily, green branch cuttings with leaves taken during the growing season also root readily. The layering method is also suitable for potted figs: from before bud break to the early growth stage, layer one-year-old or perennial branches of an existing potted fig or a field-grown fig into another pot or barrel, burying the layered branch about 10 cm into the potting soil.
3. Training and pruning
Potted figs can be trained in the following two ways. The first is the open-center training and pruning method: after planting, cut the seedling trunk back to leave 3 to 4 buds at the base, and in the same year select 3 main branches growing in different directions. The fig is a light-loving tree species, so the main branch angles should be wide; branches can be pulled to 60 degrees to 70 degrees. In the second year, the mixed buds on each main branch can sprout and bear fruit. The length of the main branches should be controlled at about 40 cm, and overly vigorous main branches should be pinched in time in summer. During winter pruning, weak fruiting branches should be removed and strong ones retained. The extension shoots of the 3 main branches should be cut back and renewed year by year to control the canopy and keep it appropriately sized.
The second is the trunk horizontal ring training method: do not head the plant in the first year after planting, but let it grow naturally. Because of its strong sprouting ability, it can sprout and form multiple branches from bottom to top in the same year. During winter pruning, according to the distribution of the branches, select and retain about 10 branches in a ring-shaped, staggered arrangement from bottom to top. After the branches extend, use thin iron wire to bend and tie them along the branches into a horizontal shape, which favors continuous fruiting. Be careful to thin out overly dense and overlapping branches. The upward-growing trunk extension shoot should be controlled at 1 m to 1.2 m in height, and pinched in time when too vigorous. After fruiting in the third year, the horizontal fruiting branches have formed a complete ring around the trunk from bottom to top. Renewal pruning can be carried out every year to maintain fruiting capacity, avoid overlapping of the ring branches, and form a graceful tree shape.
4. Management
Potted figs should have their vigorous growth controlled so that they produce moderate shoots; therefore, watering should not be too frequent. Second, fertilizer should be applied reasonably to prevent excessive fertilization and fertilizer damage. Generally, during the growing season, apply once every half month a diluted solution of soaked and fermented soybean cake water, animal hoof and horn water, or urea. In late August in autumn, apply once a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer, or superphosphate, bone meal, plant ash, etc. Figs have very few diseases and insect pests, so spraying is basically unnecessary. Branches younger than 5 years old are prone to freeze damage; before winter arrives, the pot should be moved indoors or the branches and trunk wrapped in straw for cold protection through the winter.
Potted fig growing techniques
Most people have probably eaten figs and know them quite well; figs have already become a fairly common fruit with especially high nutritional value. In fact, figs can also be grown in pots, giving ornamental value, and with good later care they can even flower and fruit. If you like them, you can take a look with me at the potted fig techniques!
Potted fig growing techniques
1. Figs have a relatively developed root system and need a larger container for cultivation. Generally, large clay vats are mostly used for planting, and they need a growing environment with relatively large space. Open balconies, terraces, courtyards and the like are all quite suitable for their growth.
2. Figs are not strict about soil, but if potted, it is best to use fertile soil with good air permeability. When planting or repotting, add decomposed cake fertilizer, chicken manure fertilizer and other organic fertilizers rich in carbon, phosphorus and potassium to the potting soil; this can make the fig branches and leaves luxuriant and help it bear fruit early.
3. For potted figs, watering can basically be determined by the progress of branch and leaf growth. When branches and leaves sprout in spring, the amount of watering should be relatively small, and the potting soil just needs to maintain a certain moisture level. As the branches and leaves gradually grow and the temperature gradually rises, figs also enter the fruit-setting stage; at this time, increase the amount of watering, watering once in the morning and once in the evening to keep the potting soil moist. If watering is not timely, symptoms such as wilting branches and leaves and fruit drop are very likely to occur. After entering the fruit ripening stage in autumn, reduce the amount of watering; too much water will cause the fruit to crack. On cloudy and rainy days, besides controlling watering, also pay attention to preventing water accumulation in the pot to avoid waterlogging damage.
4. Fig shoots grow relatively fast, so pay attention to pruning and shaping in normal care, especially for potted figs; a trunk that is too tall not only affects the appearance but also makes routine care more troublesome. Therefore, potted figs must have the trunk limited to a certain height and must not be allowed to grow freely. The specific method is: when the trunk of the young seedling grows to about 20 cm, cut off the leader shoot to encourage branching. According to your own preferences, prune it into a certain shape to increase its ornamental value.
5. Figs are not cold-tolerant. Potted figs kept outdoors should be moved indoors promptly around the time of frost descent in late autumn. Those kept indoors should be placed in sunny, well-ventilated places such as balconies and living rooms. In winter, figs enter dormancy and growth tends to stagnate; at this time, watering can be adjusted flexibly according to the indoor temperature. If the room temperature is relatively high, water a little more; if placed in a room with a room temperature of about 5°C, then control watering and keep the potting soil as dry as possible, so that it can safely pass the winter.
Main diseases and insect pests and their control
Figs have relatively few diseases and insect pests. The common ones that cause relatively great damage include mulberry longhorn beetles, root-knot nematodes and fruit anthracnose. For the control of mulberry longhorn beetles, refer to the apple section and use poison plugs to block the holes. At present, the main control of root-knot nematodes is to avoid continuous cropping in old orchards and to quarantine and disinfect seedlings; when conditions permit, soil can also be disinfected. For fruit anthracnose, spray 200 times lime double-strength Bordeaux mixture or 75% chlorothalonil 600-800 times solution early before the fruit becomes diseased in summer and autumn. For the latter, the safe interval between applications (the number of days from the last application to harvest) is 7-14 days.
Growth and fruiting habits of figs
The fig is a subtropical deciduous shrub or small tree; under suitable conditions, a long-lived one can also grow into a large tree. Figs have a developed root system, are drought-tolerant and salt-tolerant, and like oxygen while avoiding waterlogging. Branches grow quickly with few branches; each year only several buds at the branch tips extend upward and outward. On new shoots, apart from the several basal nodes, most leaf axils can form 2-3 buds, one of which is round and large and is a flower bud. After entering the fruiting stage, except for vigorous water sprouts, almost all new shoots in the canopy can become fruiting shoots. Thus, 2-3 years after planting they can begin to bear fruit, and in 7-10 years they can enter the full fruiting stage.
After the flower buds further differentiate and develop, they become the unique syconium fruit. The syconium fruit is fleshy and sac-like, with a small opening at the top that is concealed by surrounding scales. On the inner wall of the syconium, thousands of tiny flowers are arranged in a hidden inflorescence, so from the outside only the fruit is seen and not the flowers. The tiny flowers can set fruit parthenocarpically without pollination. The edible part is actually a multiple fruit formed by the common enlargement of the syconium and the many small fruits enclosed within it.
The fruit development period is 50-60 days. Fruits on the middle and lower parts of new shoots mature in autumn of the same year in the Yangtze River basin and are called autumn fruit. Fruits on the upper part of new shoots that develop relatively late mostly do not mature in time and shrink and drop when cold arrives. The flower buds on the several nodes at the tips of new shoots differentiate in late autumn, covered with scales, and can overwinter safely in warm winter areas; after the weather warms the next spring they continue to differentiate and develop and become summer fruit. Normally ripened summer fruit is generally of better quality. Varieties belong to different types according to their ability to form summer fruit and autumn fruit.
Precautions for cultivating figs
1. Watering. For potted plants, do not water until the surface of the potting soil is dry, and when watering, water thoroughly. For ground-planted plants, it saves labor and effort; generally, it is not too late to water after the potting soil shows drought.
2. Temperature. Figs are not tolerant of severe cold. For potted plants, temperatures below -5°C in winter will cause freeze damage; ground-planted plants also cannot endure a low temperature of -10°C and need soil mounded around the roots for cold protection. The suitable growth temperature is between 20-30°C, and they can still grow normally at a high temperature of 38°C.
3. Fertilization. Fertilizer can be applied from late March to late August. At home, it is best to choose organic fertilizers, so that the fruit produced tastes good and has high sugar content. Chemical fertilizers can also be used; be careful not to apply too much, and it is preferable to apply light fertilizer frequently.
From this it seems that growing potted figs is not especially difficult. Those who like growing flowers and plants might as well plant one or two figs in their leisure time. With good care, they may even flower and fruit, and fresh figs can be picked and eaten right away. What a wonderful thing!
How to grow potted figs, and the planting method for potted figs
Potted figs have graceful branches and leaves and a beautiful tree shape, making them beautiful potted plants that can be enjoyed both for their leaves and their fruit. Many people do not know how to grow potted figs. In this article, I will introduce the planting method for potted figs.
The planting method for potted figs
1. Figs have a relatively developed root system and need a larger container for cultivation. Generally, large clay vats are mostly used for planting, and they need a growing environment with relatively large space. Open balconies, terraces, courtyards and the like are all quite suitable for their growth.
2. Figs are not strict about soil, but if potted, it is best to use fertile soil with good air permeability. When planting or repotting, add decomposed cake fertilizer, chicken manure fertilizer and other organic fertilizers rich in carbon, phosphorus and potassium to the potting soil; this can make the fig branches and leaves luxuriant and help it bear fruit early.
3. For potted figs, watering can basically be determined by the progress of branch and leaf growth. When branches and leaves sprout in spring, the amount of watering should be relatively small, and the potting soil just needs to maintain a certain moisture level. As the branches and leaves gradually grow and the temperature gradually rises, figs also enter the fruit-setting stage; at this time, increase the amount of watering, watering once in the morning and once in the evening to keep the potting soil moist. If watering is not timely, symptoms such as wilting branches and leaves and fruit drop are very likely to occur. After entering the fruit ripening stage in autumn, reduce the amount of watering; too much water will cause the fruit to crack. On cloudy and rainy days, besides controlling watering, also pay attention to preventing water accumulation in the pot to avoid waterlogging damage.
4. Fig shoots grow relatively fast, so pay attention to pruning and shaping in normal care, especially for potted figs; a trunk that is too tall not only affects the appearance but also makes routine care more troublesome. Therefore, potted figs must have the trunk limited to a certain height and must not be allowed to grow freely. The specific method is: when the trunk of the young seedling grows to about 20 cm, cut off the leader shoot to encourage branching. According to your own preferences, prune it into a certain shape to increase its ornamental value.
5. Figs are not cold-tolerant. Potted figs kept outdoors should be moved indoors promptly around the time of frost descent in late autumn. Those kept indoors should be placed in sunny, well-ventilated places such as balconies and living rooms. In winter, figs enter dormancy and growth tends to stagnate; at this time, watering can be adjusted flexibly according to the indoor temperature. If the room temperature is relatively high, water a little more; if placed in a room with a room temperature of about 5°C, then control watering and keep the potting soil as dry as possible, so that it can safely pass the winter.
Figs originated along the Mediterranean coast of Europe and in Central Asia, and were introduced into China during the Western Han Dynasty. **The Tarim Basin has a long history of cultivating figs, and the figs there are sweet and nutritious, enjoying the reputation of "queen of fruits." The planting method for potted figs is introduced here, and I hope it can help everyone better understand how to grow potted figs.