How do you do the initial styling and care management of a Chinese ash bonsai?

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Initial Styling and Care of Chinese Ash Bonsai I. Botanical Characteristics of Chinese Ash Chinese ash belongs to the Oleaceae family, genus Fraxinus. It is native to Jingshan in western Hubei, and is a deciduous tree reaching over 30 m in height. The bark of young and middle-aged trees is smooth and pale gray-green, while the bark of middle-aged and old trees has longitudinal dark gray wrinkles. The branches have strong sprouting ability

Initial Styling and Care of Chinese Ash Bonsai

I. Botanical Characteristics of Chinese Ash

Chinese ash belongs to the Oleaceae family, genus Fraxinus. It is native to Jingshan in western Hubei, and is a deciduous tree reaching over 30 m in height. The bark of young and middle-aged trees is smooth and pale gray-green, while the bark of middle-aged and old trees has longitudinal dark gray wrinkles. The branches have strong sprouting ability and tolerate pruning. The tree tolerates drought, moisture and high temperatures, likes fertilizer and sunlight, and can be grown outdoors anywhere south of the Beijing area. It is suited to neutral and slightly acidic soil, pH 5-7, and is propagated by seeding and cuttings.

II. Treatment and Cutting Propagation of Collected Chinese Ash Stumps

For Chinese ash stumps purchased from far away from the place of origin, local mountain villagers dig them in winter and early spring. For locally cultivated and dug stock, digging can be done at any time except from mid-June to mid-August. Mountain villagers generally provide poor protection during digging and transport. Although this tree species has very strong vitality, in order to achieve a higher survival rate, attention must still be paid to the varying degrees of dehydration it suffers. First, the stump should be cut to position in one go. This species roots easily, and even a saw cut on a root 200 mm in diameter can still produce fibrous roots, so any roots and branches that would hinder future potting and styling should be resolutely sawed off. Second, it must absorb enough water; if conditions permit, it is best to stand the root portion upright and soak it in water dissolved with a rooting agent (such as rooting powder or vitamin B12), with the treatment time according to the rooting agent's instructions. Or soak the entire stump in clean water for a full day and night, then plant it in a sand bed for care. The burial depth of the roots should be more than 20 cm, and old stumps with a trunk diameter greater than 20 cm, or split-trunk stumps, should be buried appropriately deeper. Spacing of the arranged stumps: medium stumps should be more than 0.5 m apart, and large stumps more than 1 m apart. This allows the branches to spread; otherwise the branches shade one another, which is unfavorable for growth and for operations when pruning and shaping. Third, after planting, water thoroughly so that the sand and tree roots are in close, firm contact; keep the sand bed moist at ordinary times, and sprinkle water on the trunk frequently. If protected with 30%-50% shade netting, the effect will be even better. Under normal circumstances, they will sprout by late spring and early summer. After the Beginning of Autumn in early August, the shade netting can be removed to let them enjoy full sunlight. From late April to early May, if there are still stumps that have not sprouted, scrape their bark with a small knife; if the bark at the top is still emerald green rather than withered yellow, they can be pulled out of the sand bed, soaked in clean water for a full day and night, then planted in sand in a half-shade, half-sun location for care, and they may still be induced to sprout and survive.

In order to protect the ecological environment, seeding and cutting propagation are now advocated. Seeding is suitable for large-scale propagation and can be carried out by referring to horticultural technical materials. For bonsai enthusiasts, cutting propagation is simpler and easier, carried out in winter and spring. Use vigorous one-year-old branches, cut them 10 cm-15 cm long before sprouting, insert them in a sand bed, shade them appropriately, and water frequently to keep the sand bed moist. They will root in just over 30 days. In mid-May they can be transplanted to open ground for cultivation; summer cuttings and autumn cuttings are also possible, but they must be shaded and the sand bed kept moist, and management is somewhat more difficult.

III. Branch Selection and Shaping of Chinese Ash Stumps

For the new buds that sprout in the first year, treatment should depend on the vigor of sprouting and branch growth of each stump.

For vigorous trees, generally after the Beginning of Autumn in early August, when most branches have grown to more than 40 cm, branch selection is carried out, keeping the branches that match the styling direction; of clustered branches, keep 1-2 and remove the rest. If it is found that a position where a branch is needed has no branch, a surplus branch from the lower part of the trunk can be approach-grafted to the position lacking a branch, and the lower styling can be pulled into place with rope or aluminum wire; at this time it is best not to use the winding method of tying and styling. Because Chinese ash branches thicken quickly, if one is not careful, the wire will cut in, affecting the beauty and growth of the primary branches. After branch selection, apply urea fertilizer once every week at 10 g-20 g per sq m according to the planting area of the stumps, to promote thickening of the new branches. Because Chinese ash can grow when the average daily temperature is above 15°C, as long as new stumps have sufficient water, fertilizer and sunlight, the base diameter of vigorous branches can reach more than 20 mm by the time of frost in the same year. Therefore, for terminal branches, the tips should first be pinched to control length (for fast-formed commercial stumps, the primary branches can be pruned to shape, and the secondary branches pruned to shape at the end of the year). Branches at the base and other parts that need thickening are allowed to grow freely. During management, observe at all times; when superfluous branches sprout from the base of branches on the trunk, they should be removed promptly, otherwise rampant branches will shoot up suddenly, wasting nutrients for nothing and affecting the thickening growth of the shaped branches. After the leaves fall from frost, the tree can be potted. Dig the stump material out of the sand bed, shake off the gravel from the roots, cut off overly long root fibers, prune the branches to shape, plant according to the size of the stump form, fill with nutrient soil; shallow pots should be given a surround so that fibrous roots do not protrude above the pot soil surface. Finally, water thoroughly and strengthen overwintering management. If the sand bed is not urgently needed for use, pruning can be done in winter, and potting on the eve of spring sprouting is even better.

For weak trees, although they sprout and send out branches, if roots have not grown or have grown sparsely, they should continue to be cultivated in the sand bed, and potted only after the roots and branches grow vigorously in the second year. By no means rush to prune and pot, as this affects the survival rate.

IV. Styling of Chinese Ash Branch Pads

Chinese ash is a fast-growing species with vigorous growth. After one year of cultivation and pruning to shape the trunk and primary branches, except for a few terminal transition branches, floating branches and drooping branches deliberately left long to thicken, most branches can be pruned and grown into pads in the second year. In the early stage, primary and secondary branches are mainly wired (pulled), with pruning as a supplement; in the later stage, after the branch pads have basically taken shape, pruning is primary and pulling is supplementary. Generally, the pruning technique of "first upper, then lower, suppress the strong and support the weak" is adopted. First upper, then lower: that is, prune the upper part of the tree first, then after some time prune the middle branches, and after several more days prune the lower branches. For the same branch pad, prune the upward-growing branches first, and prune the parallel and downward-growing branches only when they have grown thicker than the upper branches. Suppress the strong and support the weak: strong vigorous branches in the upper part should be pruned first by several days, and when the weak branches have grown to a certain thickness, they are pruned in turn. The aim is to make the thickness of a branch match the position it occupies.

For tree material with especially vigorous growth, in addition to the usual control, leaf removal and pruning to shape the branch pads can be carried out.

After the frost of autumn, the leaves wither from frost and the branch form is exposed, which is very favorable for observing the direction and trend of the branches (pads), their front-back interweaving, their high-low staggering, and their position and form. At this time a careful round of pruning and tying can be given to the branch form. What can be pruned into place is done by pruning; what cannot be pruned into place can be bent and pulled into place by winding with aluminum wire; for some branch pads that are too upward-tending or whose direction and position are not ideal, pull them into place with aluminum wire or rope. For Chinese ash, special attention should be paid to its opposite branches and frog-leg branches; on the trunk, when selecting branches, and on the primary and secondary branches, opposite branches should be pruned away in a staggered manner; frog-leg branches can be grown long on one side and cut short on the other, or changed into a turned-back branch.

V. Fertilizer and Water Management and Pest and Disease Control of Chinese Ash Bonsai

The management and care of Chinese ash bonsai can be summarized as "lots of water, lots of fertilizer, lots of sun". Lots of water: that is, there must be sufficient moisture; slightly wet is better than dry. Lots of fertilizer: during the growing season, apply light fertilizer frequently; to facilitate absorption by the tree and avoid waste of fertilizer solution, it is best to fertilize once every 5-7 days. Fertilization is generally done on a sunny afternoon when the pot soil is on the dry side, and after application water to rinse the leaves. On overcast and rainy days when the pot is wet, the tree roots do not breathe smoothly, and after fertilization the tree roots do not absorb easily. Lots of sun: even in the hottest days of the dog days, as long as moisture keeps up, under high temperature and strong sunlight of 38°C-40°C, it is still seen to sprout and grow, and the branch tips rarely show self-pruning, which shows its particularly strong adaptability. The simplest way to judge whether it lacks water, fertilizer or sunlight is to observe the sprouting of its new shoots: when fertilizer, water and sunlight are sufficient, the branches sent out from the tree tips are thick and strong, and the young branches and leaves are purplish red, gradually turning green; when insufficient, the branches sent out are thin and weak, and the young leaves are pale green.

5-7 days before leaf removal and pruning to shape the branches and buds, a application of cake fertilizer water must be given; in the peak growing season, new buds are seen sprouting just three days after heavy pruning. After the new buds sprout, another application of cake fertilizer water should be given, with a water-to-fertilizer ratio of 8:1; the fuller the branch pads become, the more the number of prunings can be appropriately increased.

Apart from chlorosis appearing when the soil is alkaline and tap water is used for long-term irrigation, no other invasion and harm by pathogens has so far been seen in Chinese ash. For chlorosis, ferrous sulfate should be dissolved in water at 1:400 and poured at the roots, once every week, and it will be cured after 3-5 consecutive times.

As for insect pests attacking Chinese ash, none occurred in the first few years, but in recent years two main kinds have been found: one is the flower thrips, whose larvae are about 1.5 mm in size, often harming newly unfolded leaves in spring, causing the leaf margins to curl outward, the new bud tips to shrink into a clump and be unable to extend, and the heart leaves to gradually wither. Once found, promptly spray to kill with 800-1500 times dilution of decis, or 1000-1500 times dilution of 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate, or 1000-2000 times dilution of qianchongsha; or, after the larval damage period has passed, remove the curled diseased leaves and the fallen leaves to promote new leaves, and it will return to normal. The other kind is the cottony cushion scale and the red wax scale, which on trees with insufficient sunlight and poor vigor mostly harm the branches, piercing and sucking tree sap. In May-June and September-November, the peak hatching periods of the larvae, spray to kill with 2000 times dilution of 20% fenvalerate; it is best to remove the insects manually as soon as the pest occurs.

Chinese ash is a new bonsai tree species popularized, developed and utilized in recent years, and its styling and care methods are still being explored and tested. Climatic conditions differ from place to place, and the direction of finalizing a work differs, so the methods and expressive features will also differ. Other bonsai friends, if you have more successful experience, we can exchange and discuss together; for any inappropriate points in this article, I hope you will not hesitate to give advice. Let us jointly improve our skill level and constantly pursue innovation to carry forward the traditional bonsai art of the Chinese nation.

The Rotational Pruning Styling Method for Chinese Ash Bonsai

Chinese ash is a deciduous tree, a fast-growing species, with extremely strong adaptability and plasticity. After several years of caring for this rare tree species, I have worked out a set of key care points and a styling method of "rotational pruning, loosening the bones to set position", to discuss with everyone.

I. Key Care Points for Chinese Ash

From November to February of the following year the temperature is relatively low, and it is winter. When reshaping the stump, the lower cut should be sawed to position in one go, making the root cross-section as level with the ground as possible, then pared flat with a sharp knife; the purpose is to prevent pathogen invasion, quickly form callus tissue, and produce continuing root system, so as to raise the roots in the future and enhance ornamental value. When sawing the upper part, first find the ideal bud point position, then make the initial cut above a pair of buds on it. After survival, the final cut is generally made around October. In March-April, when the temperature rises, cultivating the stump differs slightly from winter: the root portion is treated by the same method, while the upper part should be cut to position in one go. According to the bud points, saw at a 45-degree slant, pare flat with a sharp knife, and if conditions permit apply 200 PPM gibberellin solution and wrap tightly with plastic strips. According to observation: in winter the plant is in a dormant state and cannot absorb nutrients, instead consuming nutrients. When it sprouts in spring, the terminal bud grows normally at first, but after one growth period ends, the pair of branches below the top often grow and thicken to 2-3 times that of the terminal branch.

For cultivating the stump, clean river sand or silt without miscellaneous bacteria may be used. Choose a sunny, level site with relatively high terrain, build a rectangular sand bed 30 cm high with red bricks, fill the lower part with about 5 cm of cinder or rubble as a drainage layer, and dig a drainage ditch about 5 cm around it. When planting the stump, shake the stump while pouring water until the sand and the stump are in close contact, but do not plant too deep. According to observation: if the sand bed is too high, it is prone to being wet on top and dry below, and this is not easily noticed. Silt gives the best results as a substrate, but it tends to grow weeds. Generally, after a sand bed has been used for two years, a comprehensive, sealed sterilization, insect-killing and weed-killing operation should be carried out, otherwise it cannot continue to be used.

During the care period, sufficient moisture and sunlight must be maintained, and no thinning is then done. After the Beginning of Autumn, depending on growth vigor, a 1:500 urea solution may be sprayed to supplement fertilizer; organic fertilizer is generally not applied in the sand bed.

II. Rotational Pruning, Loosening the Bones to Set Position

For stumps confirmed to have survived, potting can be done gradually in October or they can be planted in changed ground; styling is generally done by the method of combining pruning and tying, and combining hanging and pulling. But problems easily arise such as: the upper part being thicker than the lower part; tiller water sprouts growing more vigorously than the styled branches; wire cut-in and stiffened branches caused by wire wrapping. The reasons can be explained as: during stump cultivation, to ensure survival, water is given abundantly, and dense branches shading one another cause long internodes; the presence or absence of fertilizer and the light relationship in the early and late potting stages lead to a thick upper part and thin lower part. After a plant is wired, its upward growth tendency must change, the transport tissue is obstructed, prompting tiller branches between the branch and trunk to grow rampantly upward, competing for nutrients and sunlight, causing the styled branches to stiffen. Combining the characteristics of Chinese ash, which tolerates pruning and sprouts easily, and choosing the production techniques of Lingnan bonsai, can make it display profound vigor and majestic momentum, a twisted and changeable bone posture, and a free and easy rhythm of rise and fall with smooth lines, so as to express a concise and refined composition and an unbending pride. There are many kinds of branches, including: terminal branch, floating branch, cascading branch, dot branch, shooting branch, etc.; they are the basic conditions and support that constitute the bonsai skeleton, and the key to the success or failure of a bonsai work. In creating Chinese ash, one must first have a "mature plan in mind" and an accurate conception. Reasonably choose the direction, angle and attribute of the branch pads, and cultivate them purposefully.

Combining the law of plants growing upward, the author adopts the "rotational pruning" method to follow nature and foster strengths while avoiding weaknesses. The method is as follows:

The position of the bud point determines the direction of the branch. Some bud points are not ideal; at this time they can be ignored, but the position and angle of future modification must be made clear. When the primary branch reaches 2/3 of the ideal thickness, it should not be bent immediately. Keep the first upward- or outward-facing bud and cut it short (generally around 5 cm), and do not make the cut smooth. Also give it an angle of about 45 degrees, to form a "horse eye" later. Apply sufficient water and fertilizer to promote vigorous growth of secondary branches. When the thickness is close to that, keep one or a pair of buds and make a second short cut, to promote one or two branch divisions. At this time, when one branch division reaches the ideal thickness, one or a pair of buds can be kept and a short cut made. For two branch divisions, the rule of "two branches showing length difference" can be adopted: cut one branch short, leaving only one or a pair of buds. Keep the other branch slightly longer, and make a short cut at three to four pairs of buds, and so on, gradually pruning into a skeleton rich in twists and changes, with varying lengths. Then by this method build branch divisions and small branches, that is, what is commonly called "chicken claw and deer antler", except that its growth direction is still slanting upward. In this way, rotational pruning of branches that meet the requirements, or dividing into multiple cuts and sectional pruning, can coordinate the thickness of branches and maximize sunlight intake. When pruning, pay attention to the relationship of contention and concession between branches and the variation between branches, avoiding sameness. According to requirements, cut out branch types of different attributes; generally when branch length reaches 3/5 of the design, "loosening the bones to set position" can be carried out, and then one moves on to shaping and care. The method is as follows:

First determine the position and angle to be adjusted, then grip the secondary and tertiary branches firmly with the hand, with the pivot point focused on the middle of the primary branch; force must not be applied up and down, but the branch should be twisted left and right, gradually increasing the force, to loosen its bones, so that the xylem and cambium of the branch become misaligned, easily reaching the designed position; finally fix it with metal wire, not letting it spring back, so as to achieve the purpose of setting the shape. At this time, the reversed or adjusted branch pad has great leeway; it can be tied or pruned, and is delightful to contemplate. The method of loosening the bones to set position can also be used to re-remodel bonsai that have already taken shape. For example, bonsai styled as "snow-pressed style" mostly use this method. In applying the "loosening the bones to set position" method, the following points must be noted:

(1) When the cut is not yet healed, it cannot be operated on, to avoid tearing.

(2) It is best to operate on a fine sunny day, when the stump is lacking [water].

(3) Be bold, careful, and firm-handed; the author has many times loosened the bones and set position on branches 3 cm in diameter, with very ideal results.

(4) Generally not affected by season; after leaf fall the effect is even better.

III. The "rotational pruning, loosening the bones to set position" styling method has the following advantages

(1) Rotational pruning does not change the law of plants growing upward; the skeleton grows vigorously and cuts heal quickly.

(2) The tiller buds between the stem and the primary branches remain dormant and are not easily activated, reducing the number of water sprouts.

(3) No wire cut-in occurs, improving ornamental value.

(4) At the loosened bone site the xylem and cambium are misaligned, promoting proliferation and healing of that tissue and achieving the purpose of thickening.

(5) After the originally upward-growing branches change position, they provide space for branch growth and accelerate the shaping cycle.

Rotational Pruning Styling Method">The Most Suitable Pruning Method for Chinese Ash Bonsai: The Rotational Pruning Styling Method

Flower and Bonsai Network guide: Today the Flower and Bonsai Network editor will share with you the article on the most suitable pruning method for Chinese ash bonsai: the rotational pruning styling method. Flower friends who like it, come and take a look.

I. Key Care Points for Chinese Ash

II. Rotational Pruning, Loosening the Bones to Set Position