What are the care methods for freshly collected golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata) and old crow vine (Thunbergia) stumps?
Recently, regarding the care of freshly collected golden bullet tree and old crow vine stumps, gardening friends have differing opinions. Here I will share my views.
Stumps are generally dug by stump farmers and then bought by merchants. The standard of cutting the stumps varies greatly. The matching and use of tools directly affects the survival of the stumps. The temporary planting while awaiting sale is also crucial. The length of transport time. Whether the moisture-retention work is scientific, and so on. All of these affect the survival of the stumps.
When the transaction is complete and the stump is in hand, this is how I handle it. After opening the packaging, use an imported hand saw to make a fresh cross-section at the base of the stump, because some stumps are simply packaged, the bark layer at the cut is damaged, or the original cut was sawn roughly, and the wood fibers are sponge-like, making them highly susceptible to bacteria, viruses, and insect and ant erosion. Later they slowly necrose and cannot produce callus tissue, and therefore cannot grow roots; the upper part likewise needs a fresh cross-section. Soak the treated stump in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 15 minutes, then rinse clean with tap water. After drying, use a grafting knife to shave 2-3 facets, about 1CM each, at the parts where roots are to grow (the raised parts of the stump); they can also be shaved into strip-shaped facets, reaching down to the xylem. This will increase the range for root growth. The wounds on other parts must be painted with plant healing agent, including the cross-section at the top.
After the stump is treated, it should be planted. Many people believe that planting deeper makes it easier to survive; I think this is debatable. Reason: if planted deep, the parts that need to grow roots may be too wet, and although it will not die for the time being, the roots will grow out on the upper part. When it is transplanted, you find there are no roots below, which is then difficult to handle, or the stump loses its charm. Planting too shallow makes survival difficult. There are introductions in the forum about bagging and wrapping methods for high-level care. Based on the size, height, and form of the stump, I apply these flexibly. Method: for small stumps, regardless of height, directly use grafting film to wrap from 1-2CM below the intended potting height, winding from bottom to top all the way to the top. For large or bizarre stumps, this method is also used, with the difference being that 3-4 layers of newspaper are added on the inside, then soaked wet before wrapping with grafting film.
For planting, pure river sand is the most ideal. Advantages: it contains no weed seeds, bacteria, or insect eggs. It is fine and has the best filling property, and can closely combine with the stump's root area. Its drainage and water retention are ideal, and it can be watered every day or once every 2-3 days. If conditions permit, a sand bed can be made directly on the ground surface, or porcelain or plastic pots can be used for planting. Generally, clay pots are not used because their air permeability is too strong and they often dry out too quickly, making dehydration easy. When choosing plastic and porcelain pots, be sure to use materials such as "black-hearted cotton" and "sponge" at the bottom to prevent the sand from being lost when watering.
When planting, use something like bamboo chopsticks to tamp it up and down, and water repeatedly until the stump and pot are firmly secured. Finally, place it in a spot with scattered light or full sunlight for care, and do not move it often. An ordinary stump will form bud points in about 20 days, which will keep swelling until they pierce through the grafting film and grow vigorously. After the buds unfold, the new branches and leaf surfaces also do not need frequent misting; this way the buds do not grow very fast and can adapt to relatively harsh sunlight, though they will also wilt. Wait until evening, then mist or water and they will be firm again. After repeating this back and forth, they adapt. At this time, you can maintain them somewhat drier to facilitate rooting. Generally, when growing them out, there is no need to thin branches; in autumn, you can appropriately comb and position them, adjust the direction of the branches, and prune as little as possible. In places without greenhouse conditions or where the weather is relatively cold, do not change the soil or transplant; wait until the following spring before new leaves unfold to do it.
How to grow Thunbergia grandiflora: cultivation and care methods for Thunbergia grandiflora
Thunbergia grandiflora is a thick, woody large vine that blooms abundantly and has brilliantly colored flowers, and is deeply loved by people. Many friends also grow it. How should Thunbergia grandiflora be grown? What this editor wants to share with everyone in this article is the cultivation and care methods for Thunbergia grandiflora.
How to grow Thunbergia grandiflora
Thunbergia grandiflora can grow in full sunlight; if sunlight is insufficient, its growth will be weaker. Young plants should be watered appropriately to keep the potting soil moist. When the plant grows larger and blooms, it needs more water, so sufficient water must be supplied.
It is not demanding about soil. Garden soil and leaf mold can be mixed at 2:1, but for potted soil a small amount of river sand should be added, and well-rotted base fertilizer must be added when planting out. When the branch vines extend to 4-5 nodes, pinch the tips to encourage branching. After the branches of potted plants extend, support stakes are needed. During high temperatures it grows rapidly, so water sufficiently.
If planting for the purpose of a shade arbor, it can be allowed to grow naturally; if for the purpose of viewing flowers, the leaves can be slightly pruned to maintain airflow and encourage blooming. Old plants need pruning, and the branches can be shortened by 1/3 to 1/2, but do not prune too heavily, lest it affect blooming.
For top dressing during the growth period, quick-acting fertilizers such as granular fertilizer and slow-release fertilizers can be applied together. For plants in the ground, fertilizer can be applied in a ring and soil mounded over the plant base; for potted plants, loosen the soil first and then apply.
How to grow Thunbergia grandiflora, and the cultivation and care methods for Thunbergia grandiflora, are shared with everyone here. Thunbergia grandiflora can not only serve as an ornamental plant, but the whole plant also has medicinal value.