How to grow flowers hydroponically? A brief introduction to soilless culture techniques and methods
Hydroponic flower growing is a common form of soilless culture, and there are many methods for it. A few of the commonly used ones are briefly described below.
Deep flow technique
It is characterized by the plant roots being fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.
Nutrient film (NFT) technique
The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is put into a plastic bag to grow plants, and on this basis further improvements were made: the plastic bag is replaced with plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution forms a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution and part is exposed to the moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white on the outside and black on the inside and wraps around the plants, forming a dark space inside.
Its advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; the plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.
Aeroponics technique
After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant roots; the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the roots. The roots are continuously or intermittently in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of supplying water, nutrients and oxygen, and the plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used when rooting cuttings.
Glass bottle hydroponics technique
For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used; the sides of the jar are wrapped with black plastic film, or coated with black paint, or covered with a layer of black paper, as long as the inside of the jar is lightproof. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids the growth of algae. In summer, a layer of white paper should be wrapped around the outside of the black jar to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the jar lid, make a hole in the middle, clamp the plant in it, and cover the jar with the lid; the top of the lid should also be black. Pour nutrient solution into the jar, but not too full; leave a gap for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water rooting to promote root formation, there is no need to use nutrient solution; just add water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:
Changing the solution
For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change it once a week during the peak growth season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in the non-growing season.
Aeration
Open the lid for a moment every morning and evening to let the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, aeration can be omitted for more than 1 month at a time.
Adding water
Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the jar to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.
Soilless culture, how to grow flowers hydroponically, methods of hydroponic flower growing
Basic concepts of soilless culture
In soilless culture, an artificially prepared culture solution is used to supply the plant's need for mineral nutrients. The table lists several commonly used nutrient solution formulas. To keep the plants upright, quartz sand, vermiculite, peat, sawdust, plastic, etc. can be used as supporting media, and they can also keep the root system aerated. Years of practice have proven that crops such as soybean, kidney bean, pea, wheat, rice, oat, sugar beet, potato, cabbage, leaf lettuce, tomato, cucumber, etc. all have higher yields in soilless culture than in soil culture. Because plants' nutrient requirements vary with species and stage of growth and development, the formula must also be changed accordingly. For example, leafy vegetables need more nitrogen (N), and N can promote leaf growth; tomato and cucumber need to flower and fruit, so they need more P, K and Ca than leafy vegetables, and need somewhat less N than leafy vegetables. At different growth and development stages, plants also have different needs for nutrient elements. For tomato at the seedling stage, the N, P, K and other elements in the culture solution can be somewhat less; after it grows larger, its supply must be increased. In summer, with long sunshine and high light intensity and temperature, tomato needs more N than in autumn and early winter. Tomato grown in autumn and early winter requires more K to improve the quality of its fruit. When cultivating the same plant, the culture solution formula must also be constantly revised throughout its life.
The culture solution used in soilless culture can be reused. After the prepared culture solution undergoes the plant's selective absorption of ions, the concentration of some ions decreases faster than that of others, and the ratios among elements and the pH value all change, gradually making it unsuitable for the plant's needs. Therefore, at intervals, NaOH or HCI should be used to adjust the pH of the culture solution, and the elements whose concentrations have decreased more should be replenished. Since pH and the concentrations of certain ions can be continuously measured with selective electrodes, the amount of acid, alkali or supplementary elements added can be automatically controlled. However, this reuse cannot continue indefinitely. When using a solid inert medium plus culture solution for cultivation, the nutrient solution must also be discharged regularly, or the method of drip irrigation with culture solution can be used to supply enough oxygen to the plant roots. When the plant transpires vigorously, the concentration of the culture solution increases, and some water then needs to be added. The key to the success of soilless culture lies in managing the culture solution well so that it meets the needs of the optimal nutritional state.
In soilless culture, the composition of the nutrient solution is easy to control. Moreover, it can be adjusted at any time. In places with suitable light and temperature and no soil, such as deserts, beaches and barren islands, it can be carried out as long as there is a certain amount of fresh water supply. The suburbs of large cities and households can also use soilless culture to grow vegetables and flowers.
Soilless culture methods
Water cutting method: this is the simplest and most easily successful method. Using the plant's regenerative capacity, part of the stem or branch is cut from a selected mother flower plant and inserted into water; under suitable conditions it roots and sprouts, and grows into a new plant. Some people jokingly call this method the "cloning method."
When cutting a branch, cut it 3 to 5 mm below a node; the cut surface should be flat and must not have longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, the aerial roots should be protected and inserted into the water. Pothos, lucky bamboo and three-color fine-leaf dragon tree are all suitable for this hydroponic method.
Root washing method: select a flower with ornamental value and robust growth that has already been formed under soil cultivation (or other medium cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then switch it to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water to reduce damage to the roots, and it is also easier to wash them clean. The washed flower is planted in a prepared container, and tap water is poured in to cover 2/3 to 1/2 of the root system. At first, change the clean water once a day, and wash the roots and container at the same time; after one week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flower grows new roots in the water, it shows that it has adapted to the hydroponic environment, and water can be changed once every 7 to 10 days, or even longer.
Division method: divide flowers with strong clumping habit into multiple clumps or multiple plants (each plant should retain intact roots), and plant the separated plants hydroponically separately (refer to the root washing method for operation). Flowers such as clustered Philodendron bipinnatifidum and Spathiphyllum floribundum are all suitable for hydroponics by division.
Tiller stripping method: suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as Clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Select a larger tiller, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the tiller from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protecting the tiller's roots), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and grow it hydroponically.
Runner plantlet picking method: some flowers grow runners during growth, and one to many small plantlets grow on the runners; most of the small plantlets have a small number of fully developed roots. This is their special reproductive function, and flowers such as spider plant and hanging bromeliad have this characteristic. Using this feature of the flowers, picking the formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple.
Hydroponic flower enthusiasts are advised to choose Monstera deliciosa, Clivia, Syngonium podophyllum, Spathiphyllum floribundum, pothos, Tradescantia fluminensis Variegata, Aechmea fasciata, Tillandsia, Aglaonema modestum, Tradescantia spathacea, Tradescantia zebrina, lucky bamboo, Vinca major Variegata, spider plant, Cyperus alternifolius, and bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, Hippeastrum and gladiolus. Such flowers are easy to obtain, graceful in form, and can grow normally in a still-water environment.
Soilless culture technique for Clivia: hydroponic method for Clivia
Hydroponic Clivia is a famous greenhouse flower. China has two species introduced from Europe and Japan. The former has small, drooping flowers and is called Clivia nobilis; the latter has large, upward-facing flowers and is called Clivia miniata, which is currently the most commonly cultivated species. The flowers of hydroponic Clivia are not as magnificent as peonies, nor as richly fragrant as jasmine, and certainly not as gorgeously varied as Chinese roses, but its leaves are verdant and glossy, and its upward-facing flowers resemble torches; the flower color is orange-red, dignified and generous, making it an ideal potted flower for beautifying the environment. Clivia nobilis has drooping flowers, reserved and deep, elegant and solemn, with a charm of its own.
1. Growing medium. Peat soil, vermiculite, ceramsite, perlite, etc. can be used, with ceramsite and perlite being the most ideal.
2. Prepare the nutrient solution. The formula for preparing the nutrient solution yourself is, per liter of water, potassium dihydrogen phosphate 68.5 mg, ammonium sulfate 132 mg, potassium sulfate 174 mg, magnesium sulfate 246 mg, calcium nitrate 236 mg, and trace elements according to the usual amount. You can also buy soilless culture nutrient solution or special Clivia nutrient solution sold on the market, and dilute it with cooled boiled water according to the specified multiple.
3. Select seedlings and wash roots. Take a Clivia plant with vigorous growth and a good plant shape out of the flower pot, shake off the old soil without damaging the root system, soak it in water close to the ambient temperature, wash the root system clean, and at the same time remove rotten roots, then soak its roots in the prepared nutrient solution for 8 hours to 12 hours to let it fully absorb nutrients.
4. Planting and potting. Choose a somewhat deep plastic pot or ceramic pot, line the bottom of the pot with a layer of thick plastic cloth, first place 2 cm to 5 cm of water-soaked ceramsite on it, then fill a layer of moist perlite about 2 cm to 5 cm thick, and press it slightly firm. Lay the Clivia horizontally in a large flower pot, add moist perlite among the roots, gently lift the root section with both hands and place it in the pot, trying not to let the perlite held among the roots fall out, then fill in moist perlite from all around until the flower pot is 80 percent full; note that it only needs to be buried up to the root neck. Finally add a layer of ceramsite on top to prevent the perlite particles from being washed away when adding water or pouring nutrient solution, or unsightly green algae appearing on the surface of the medium due to sunlight. Place a shallow dish under the bottom of the flower pot to prevent water seepage.
5. Add and pour nutrient solution. After the Clivia plant has been planted, pour in the already prepared nutrient solution until water seeps out from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, and at the same time spray some clean water on the leaves.
6. Daily management. Its requirements for light, temperature and air humidity are the same as for ordinary soil culture. Any seepage liquid received in the shallow dish should be promptly poured back into the pot until no more nutrient solution seeps out. Generally, a large pot should be supplemented with nutrient solution once every 2 weeks, in an amount of 200 ml to 300 ml, and a small or medium pot should be watered with nutrient solution once a week, in an amount of 50 ml to 100 ml. Before and during flowering, nutrient solution should be supplemented several more times, and water should be added once a week.
To prevent accidents, you can first try with small seedlings, and after gaining a little experience, switch to mature plants for soilless culture.