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Qing Dynasty Coral Plum Blossom Bonsai Image Appreciation, Experience the Beauty of Plum Blossoms

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Size: 34cm high. The bonsai consists of two parts: the upper part is a plum blossom made of coral, and the lower part is a cloisonne enamel pot. The pot is in the shape of a crabapple blossom, with a gilt bronze body. On the blue enamel ground of the pot rim and walls are respectively made interlocking baoxiang flowers and four cartouches, inside which are decorated the Mountain of Happiness and Sea of Longevity, symbolizing long-lasting fortune and longevity. The main scene is a blooming plum blossom tree

Size: 34cm high

The bonsai consists of two parts: the upper part is a plum blossom made of coral, and the lower part is a cloisonne enamel pot. The pot is in the shape of a crabapple blossom, with a gilt bronze body. On the blue enamel ground of the pot rim and walls are respectively made interlocking baoxiang flowers and four cartouches, inside which are decorated the Mountain of Happiness and Sea of Longevity, symbolizing long-lasting fortune and longevity. The main scene is a blooming plum blossom tree, with coral as petals, yellow stone as flower buds, and a trunk winding upward in a vivid posture, with branches and leaves arranged in a pleasing disorder, presenting a scene of flourishing flowers and lush branches.

The plum blossom has five petals, symbolizing happiness, fortune, longevity, smoothness, and peace, hence the saying "the plum blossom opens five blessings." Bonsai originated in China and is a kind of artwork for display and appreciation. It can be divided into tree-stump bonsai, mountain-stone bonsai, gemstone bonsai, etc. This coral plum blossom bonsai belongs to gemstone bonsai, giving people a magnificent and splendid feeling, yet overall it also presents an elegant and plain temperament, the two being inclusive and complementing each other. This coral plum blossom bonsai is a product unique to the Qing palace, coming from local tribute and the Qing palace Imperial Workshops. Most are collected in the Palace Museum.

Qing Dynasty Coral Plum Blossom Bonsai

Qing Dynasty Coral Plum Blossom Bonsai

Size: 34cm high

The bonsai consists of two parts: the upper part is a plum blossom made of coral, and the lower part is a cloisonne enamel pot. The pot is in the shape of a crabapple blossom, with a gilt bronze body. On the blue enamel ground of the pot rim and walls are respectively made interlocking baoxiang flowers and four cartouches, inside which are decorated the Mountain of Happiness and Sea of Longevity, symbolizing long-lasting fortune and longevity. The main scene is a blooming plum blossom tree, with coral as petals, yellow stone as flower buds, and a trunk winding upward in a vivid posture, with branches and leaves arranged in a pleasing disorder, presenting a scene of flourishing flowers and lush branches.

The plum blossom has five petals, symbolizing happiness, fortune, longevity, smoothness, and peace, hence the saying "the plum blossom opens five blessings." Bonsai originated in China and is a kind of artwork for display and appreciation. It can be divided into tree-stump bonsai, mountain-stone bonsai, gemstone bonsai, etc. This coral plum blossom bonsai belongs to gemstone bonsai, giving people a magnificent and splendid feeling, yet overall it also presents an elegant and plain temperament, the two being inclusive and complementing each other. This coral plum blossom bonsai is a product unique to the Qing palace, coming from local tribute and the Qing palace Imperial Workshops. Most are collected in the Palace Museum.

Care and Management of Plum Blossom Bonsai

Plum Blossom BonsaiCare and Management

Placement: Plum blossoms should be placed in a sunny, well-ventilated location. Although plum blossoms are relatively cold-tolerant and can bloom proudly through frost and snow, they still prefer warmth by nature and are suited to the southern climate. If cultivated in cold northern regions, they should be placed indoors to overwinter in winter. 
Watering: Normally keep the pot soil moist, taking care not to water when not dry, and prevent water accumulation in the pot. From mid-to-late May to early-to-mid June, that is, from flower bud germination to formation, "water withholding" treatment must be carried out, that is, letting the pot soil dry until the old leaves slightly curl and the new shoots wither before watering again, repeating this several times to destroy the growing points of new branches, stopping the new shoots from elongating, so as to increase flower bud occurrence, and then gradually restoring normal watering.  
Fertilizing: Attention should be paid to the fertilizing season. Generally when repotting, bone meal, bean cake, etc. can be placed at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer. From mid-to-late May, before flower bud formation, apply 1 to 2 times cake fertilizer water as top dressing, apply 1 to 2 times again in early August, and apply one more top dressing in early autumn.  
Pruning: To make plum blossom bonsai both ancient and vigorous in appearance and robust in growth with abundant blooms, pruning is extremely important. Because plum flower buds are formed on new branches of the current year, after flowering each year the old flowering branches should be immediately cut short, leaving only 2 to 3 buds, and care should be taken to make the buds grow outward, so that the next year's flowers will be abundant and colorful. Plum blossom pruning can be divided into the following types:

  
1. Thinning branches: That is, thinning and cutting away various crossing branches, parallel branches, overlapping branches, opposite branches, water sprouts, and overly dense or weak branches that affect the beauty of the tree shape. Follow the thinning principle of "do not move old branches, keep the strong and remove the weak."  
2. Heading back: That is, on the basis of thinning branches, cutting off the upper part of one-year-old branches after flowering. The degree of cutting short should be determined according to shaping needs and growth vigor; those with good growth can be cut less, and those with poor growth can be cut more. According to shaping needs, a small number of long branches can sometimes be appropriately retained. When heading back, the direction of the bud opening should also be chosen according to the branch's direction and angle, so as to achieve proper density.  
3. Bud removal: That is, around April when the current year's leaf buds grow to about 3 cm, according to the position and density of the buds and the needs of tree shaping, remove a portion of unnecessary buds. For buds on old trunks, remove them as soon as they appear.  
4. Pinching: That is, in late June when new shoots grow to a certain length, remove the terminal buds to control branch growth, generally at a length of 15 to 30 cm. For plum blossoms with poorer sprouting ability, pinching can be carried out earlier to promote re-sprouting. When plum blossom trees are too old, the tree vigor often weakens. To make declining plum trees "rejuvenate," the following measures can be taken:  
① Gradually cut away side branches on the main trunk in batches year by year, or gradually head back the side branches year by year until they are removed from the base, so as to achieve renewal.  
② When renewing thick branches, attention must be paid to protecting the wounds to prevent the invasion of pests and diseases.  
③ Place the plum pot in the ground for cultivation, preferably choosing a place with good ventilation and light and fertile, loose soil, and at the same time thin the branches. Repotting: Plum blossom bonsai should be repotted once every 1 to 2 years, preferably after flowering in March, or in winter in November to December. When repotting, remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the old soil, cut off dead roots, shorten overly long old roots, and replace with humus-rich leaf mold or frozen and loosened pond mud, mixed with rice hull ash and sandy soil.  
Pest and disease control: The main diseases of plum blossoms include anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf curl disease, and sooty mold. The main insect pests include plum caterpillars, aphids, longhorn beetles, lace bugs, and slug moths. Diseases can be controlled by spraying 0.5% Bordeaux mixture; pests can be controlled by spraying 80% dichlorvos at 1500 times dilution. If longhorn beetle larvae are found boring into the plum trunk, use 1 part dichlorvos plus 0.5 part light diesel oil, dip a cotton ball and plug the insect hole, then seal the opening with wet mud. When using chemicals to control pests, avoid using dimethoate, otherwise it will cause leaf drop and may even lead to death.  
(2) Appreciation  
The plum blossom tree has an elegant posture, gnarled trunk and spreading canopy, sparse slanting branches, and an ancient and vigorous beauty, making it most beautiful. The best viewing period is the flowering period, generally in February to March. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, about 40 days before the Spring Festival place the plum blossom bonsai in a greenhouse at about 10°C, with sufficient sunlight, and spray water frequently. Plum stump bonsai has beauty of color, beauty of form, and beauty of charm, excellent in color, fragrance, and taste. The Southern Song poet Yang Wanli wrote in a poem on plum blossoms: "At first arrival one feels the fragrance pierce the nose; when it fades there is neither fragrance nor taste; vainly gazing at dusk as the flowers seem to sleep, unaware that one has been intoxicated by the flowers." This is a description of the delicate fragrance of plum blossoms.

Plum blossoms have no strict soil requirements

They can grow in general neutral soil, but potted plum blossoms, because of limited pot soil, should use loose and fertile nutrient soil. The nutrient soil is prepared by mixing 4 parts edible residue, 4 parts piled miscellaneous fertilizer soil, and 2 parts coal ash soil evenly as the growing medium, and the soil should be changed once a year after flowering. After repotting, first place in a cool place for one week, then transfer to normal care.

Plum blossoms are sensitive to moisture

If the pot soil is too wet for a long time, it easily causes root rot, therefore watering should be controlled. When new branches grow to 20 cm, attention should be paid to controlling watering, controlling excessive elongation of new shoots, and promoting flower bud differentiation. However, in summer water once a day, in autumn water according to the soil to keep the soil moist, and in winter water less to keep the soil on the dry side.

Plum blossoms do not like heavy fertilizer

When plum blossoms sprout branches and leaves, fertilizer and water should be sufficient, applying organic liquid fertilizer 1 to 2 times a month. When new shoots grow to 5 cm, apply a thin fertilizer once to promote branch growth. In late summer and early autumn, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once, and increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to promote flower bud formation. After flower bud differentiation, spray 1 to 2 times potassium dihydrogen phosphate. Such layered scientific fertilization is beneficial to plum blossom growth.

Plum blossom pruning and shaping

Pruning and shaping plum blossoms is a technical job. Pruning should start from the seedling stage. When the seedling grows to 20 to 25 cm long, cut off the top. After sprouting, keep 3 to 5 branches as main branches. When the main branches grow to 10 to 15 cm, pinch them to promote thicker branches and flower bud formation. For post-flowering pruning, after the flowers fade, head back leaving 2 to 3 buds from the base. When new branches grow to 5 to 6 leaves, pinch again, leaving only 3 to 4 leaves, to promote the growth of more flowering branches. Thereafter, prune repeatedly every year to make the branches sturdy and increase flower buds.

Plum blossom pest and disease control

Be sure to maintain ventilation and light. Plum blossom diseases mainly come from anthracnose and leaf spot disease, generally occurring from late April to early May. Use 50% carbendazim or 70% thiophanate-methyl dissolved at 800 to 1000 times dilution and spray alternately for control. Aphid damage is more common every year; use a 500 times solution of laundry detergent to spray and kill, with obvious effect. However, plum blossoms are sensitive to pesticides such as dimethoate and dichlorvos, so do not use them.

Plum blossoms blooming at Spring Festival

Everyone who grows plum blossoms wants them to bloom during the Spring Festival, which requires mastering the technique of forcing flowers.

First, calculate the flower-forcing date well. About 20 days before the Spring Festival, move the potted plum blossom into a greenhouse, and place it in a sunny place for care. The indoor temperature should be controlled at 10 to 15°C as appropriate. At the same time, spray clean water on the flower branches and surroundings every day, keeping it so that watering is not excessive, which is unfavorable to plum blossom growth and easily causes root rot and bud drop; if watering is insufficient, it will also make the flower buds shrivel.

Second, grasp the relationship between temperature and flowering time. One week before the Spring Festival, if the flower buds are still small, move the pot to a medium-temperature environment of 15 to 25°C for management. If it blooms early before the Spring Festival, lower the temperature around the potted flowers by about 10°C, and give less sunlight and control water.

Also, fertilize moderately. To make plum blossoms bloom more vividly and with a stronger fragrance, fertilizer should be applied moderately. Generally, apply a thin organic liquid fertilizer once every 7 to 10 days, and at the same time spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate and plant growth promoter on the flower buds once every 7 days.

How to control aphids

Aphids, also known as greasy insects and honey insects, are the most common enemy in flower cultivation. More than two thousand species of aphids have been listed as worldwide pests. Their reproductive capacity is very strong; one adult aphid can produce 70 small aphids in one generation, and can reproduce more than a dozen generations, even dozens of generations, in a year.

Common aphids include cotton aphid, green peach aphid, mealy peach aphid, rose aphid, pagoda tree aphid, pine aphid, willow aphid, and chrysanthemum aphid, etc.

Flowers that are harmed include rose of Sharon, Chinese hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, chrysanthemum, hollyhock, orchid, plum blossom, loquat, ornamental peach, four o'clock flower, coral bean, Chinese rose, pansy, tulip, zinnia, snapdragon, dahlia, cineraria, carnation, morning glory, begonia, oleander, cherry blossom, elm-leaved spiraea, spectabilis, cyclamen, hyacinth, and epiphyllum, etc.

The harm is severe. The fresh matter sucked by one wingless adult green peach aphid within 24 hours weighs 79 times its body weight; the honeydew it secretes is transparent, thick, and sticky, which obstructs the physiological activities of flowers and is also a good culture medium for pathogens, easily inducing sooty mold, etc.; at the same time aphids are also important virus transmission vectors; they gather and damage tender leaves, tender shoots, flower buds, and other parts, sucking sap, causing flowers to develop abnormally, with irregular shrinkage, curling, and dropping on the underside of leaves, deformed flower buds, reduced or smaller flowers, and even the whole plant withering and dying.

In aphid control, various means should be used to stop their harmful activities, mainly including the following points:

1. Eliminating aphids should start from the overwintering period of the flowers, which can achieve twice the result with half the effort. If one relies solely on the spring and autumn when aphid damage is most severe, the control effect is not significant.

2. Newly introduced flower seeds and seedlings should be strictly inspected to prevent the invasion of new pests from other places, and the soil and old flower pots should be disinfected to kill residual insect eggs.

3. Combined with pruning, thoroughly remove residual flowers and diseased and withered branches and leaves where aphids have lived or eggs have lurked, and burn them in a centralized manner.

4. Different flower varieties have different insect resistance, so pest- and disease-resistant varieties should be selected, which both reduces aphid damage and saves on pesticide costs.

5. When a small number of aphids are found, they can be brushed clean with a writing brush dipped in water, or the potted flower can be tilted under running tap water and rinsed while rotating, which both kills the aphids and washes the leaves, improving ornamental value and promoting leaf respiration; if conditions permit, natural enemies such as ladybugs and lacewings can also be used for control.

6. When a large number of aphids are found, they should be isolated in time, and immediately use chemicals or folk methods to eliminate the pests. The specific measures are as follows:

1. Prepare tobacco leaf water at a ratio of 1:15, soak for 4 hours, then spray.

2. Prepare a solution of laundry detergent, urea, and water at a ratio of 1:4:400 and spray.

3. Spray with 10% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, or malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 to 1500 times dilution, or dichlorvos emulsifiable oil at 1000 times dilution.

4. For aphids such as mealy peach aphid that are themselves covered with wax powder, when applying any pesticide, add 1‰ neutral soap water or laundry detergent.

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