How to Make a Redbud (Cercis) Bonsai: A Detailed Guide to Sourcing Materials and Styling Techniques
Redbud, also known as "mantiaohong" (full-branch red), is a deciduous shrub or small tree in the genus Cercis of the legume family (Fabaceae). The plant grows upright and clump-forming, reaching 3 m to 4 m in height. The trunk is grayish-brown, with the old bark splitting longitudinally, while young branches are smooth. The simple leaves are alternate, nearly round, 6 cm to 14 cm long, with pointed tips and deep heart-shaped bases, entire margins or with a transparent cuticle along the leaf edge, hairless on both sides, and with five-veined leaves. The flowers open before the leaves, borne in clusters of 4 to 10 on old branches or in short racemes; the corolla is butterfly-shaped and purple-red, blooming in April. The pods are elongated and flat, 5 cm to 14 cm long, containing 2 to 8 seeds that are nearly round, flat and dark brown.
(1) Botanical Knowledge
Belonging to the family Caesalpiniaceae, genus Cercis. A deciduous small tree, usually shrub-like, with clumping branches and stems, 2-3 m tall. The bark of young trees is smooth, becoming plate-like and fissured with age. The simple leaves are alternate, heart-shaped or nearly round, entire, smooth and hairless. It blooms in mid-April; the flowers are pseudo-papilionaceous, purple-red, borne in clusters of 5-8 on old branches and stems, opening before the leaves, covering the branches with brilliant, eye-catching blooms full of charm. The pods are red-purple and ripen in October. It is an excellent flowering ornamental tree.
Related Species
1. Cercis racemosa (pendulous redbud): leaves nearly leathery, broadly ovate, with short pubescence on the underside. Flowers pink, on drooping pedicels, in pendulous racemes 4-10 cm long. Pods purple, 6-10 cm long. Native to western Hubei and the Three Gorges area of Sichuan.
2. Cercis chingii (Huangshan redbud), also known as Zhe-Wan redbud. Leaves nearly leathery, ovate or heart-shaped, smooth and hairless on the underside. Flowers open before the leaves, clustered on old branches. Pods thickly leathery, without a narrow wing along the ventral suture. The fruit ripens in October and is red-purple.
Native to Huangshan in Anhui, Zhejiang, Guangdong and other places. There is a cultivated variety of redbud: the white-flowered redbud (Cercis chinensis 'Alba'), with pure white flowers clustered on old branches. Other characteristics are the same as the original species. Redbud is widely distributed, native to North China, East China, Southwest China, South China and other regions of our country. It is a commonly cultivated ornamental flowering tree in gardens everywhere.
It prefers sunlight and is relatively cold-hardy. It likes fertile, well-drained soil and does not tolerate waterlogging. It has strong suckering ability and tolerates pruning.
(2) Sourcing Materials and Propagation Measures
Artificial propagation: Seed sowing is the main method, though division and layering can also be used. For sowing, collect seeds in October, dry the pods in the sun and thresh them, clean off the pod shells and debris, and store in bags. Sow in February-March of the following year. Before sowing, soak the seeds in 40°C warm water for a full day and night (letting it cool naturally), then place them in clean water to soak for another 4-5 days, changing the water once a day. Once the seeds are fully swollen, wrap them in moist gauze and place them at room temperature of 15-20°C to encourage sprouting. Sow after the seeds begin to germinate; this promotes fast and uniform germination. Choose fertile, loose sandy loam for the seedbed. Sow in drills with a row spacing of 20 cm and a sowing furrow depth of 2 cm. After sowing, cover with fine soil about 1 cm thick, then cover with rice straw and water thoroughly with a fine-spout watering can. Seedlings emerge after about 2 weeks; remove the straw promptly and set up a shade frame. Strengthen management during the seedling stage to promote vigorous growth. If left in the bed to grow on, the seedlings can be planted into pots in 1-2 years. Division is best done in October: dig up the clump-forming parent plant with its roots, split it apart with the roots attached, tie the roots together tightly with string, dip them in mud slurry and heel them in; then dig them out and plant in February-March of the following spring, which also roots easily. Layering can be done during the spring growing season: girdle the branch to be buried in the soil down to the xylem, bend it into the ground and cover with a thick layer of soil. Generally, layer in spring, sever from the parent plant in autumn, and lift and plant the following early spring.
Collecting from the wild: Wild redbud mostly grows under mixed mountain woods or along stream banks. Select old root stumps that are short in growth with dense branches and leaves, dig them up, and after nurturing and cultivating the embryo, wait for the root system to recover, then move them into pots for cultivation and styling.
(3) Potting Process
Choosing a pot: For redbud, relatively deep glazed ceramic pots or purple clay (zisha) pots are generally chosen, most commonly square, round or oval ones, though shallower rectangular pots are sometimes used. Pot colors of light yellow or celadon are best, to set off the branches full of purple-red flowers.
Soil: It is not demanding about soil and adapts to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline soil. For potting, use fertile, loose, well-draining leaf mold, or pond/river mud that has weathered and been mixed with sandy soil and rice-hull ash.
Planting: Usually planted in spring between February and March. When planting, shorten the main root and overly long roots, and also prune the branches and trunk appropriately, keeping only 3-4-year-old branches as the framework branches.
(4) Styling Techniques
Processing: Redbud is mostly styled by a method that emphasizes pruning, with wiring as a supplement. Generally, only the main trunk needs to be appropriately wired into the desired posture; wire wrapping is more convenient and flexible, and it is best done after flowering during the plum rain season. Branch styling is carried out by combining pruning with wiring, also best done after flowering.
Tree forms: The main bonsai styles for redbud include slanting trunk, curved trunk, weeping branch and forest styles. The natural form is also good, with branches full of purple flowers, very beautiful.
Making a Redbud Bonsai
(1) Botanical Knowledge
Belonging to the family Caesalpiniaceae, genus Cercis. A deciduous small tree, usually shrub-like, with clumping branches and stems, 2-3 m tall. The bark of young trees is smooth, becoming plate-like and fissured with age. The simple leaves are alternate, heart-shaped or nearly round, entire, smooth and hairless. It blooms in mid-April; the flowers are pseudo-papilionaceous, purple-red, borne in clusters of 5-8 on old branches and stems, opening before the leaves, covering the branches with brilliant, eye-catching blooms full of charm. The pods are red-purple and ripen in October. It is an excellent flowering ornamental tree.
Related Species
1. Cercis racemosa (pendulous redbud): leaves nearly leathery, broadly ovate, with short pubescence on the underside. Flowers pink, on drooping pedicels, in pendulous racemes 4-10 cm long. Pods purple, 6-10 cm long. Native to western Hubei and the Three Gorges area of Sichuan.
2. Cercis chingii (Huangshan redbud), also known as Zhe-Wan redbud. Leaves nearly leathery, ovate or heart-shaped, smooth and hairless on the underside. Flowers open before the leaves, clustered on old branches. Pods thickly leathery, without a narrow wing along the ventral suture. The fruit ripens in October and is red-purple.
Native to Huangshan in Anhui, Zhejiang, Guangdong and other places. There is a cultivated variety of redbud: the white-flowered redbud (Cercis chinensis 'Alba'), with pure white flowers clustered on old branches. Other characteristics are the same as the original species. Redbud is widely distributed, native to North China, East China, Southwest China, South China and other regions of our country. It is a commonly cultivated ornamental flowering tree in gardens everywhere.
It prefers sunlight and is relatively cold-hardy. It likes fertile, well-drained soil and does not tolerate waterlogging. It has strong suckering ability and tolerates pruning.
(2) Sourcing Materials and Propagation Measures
Artificial propagation: Seed sowing is the main method, though division and layering can also be used. For sowing, collect seeds in October, dry the pods in the sun and thresh them, clean off the pod shells and debris, and store in bags. Sow in February-March of the following year. Before sowing, soak the seeds in 40°C warm water for a full day and night (letting it cool naturally), then place them in clean water to soak for another 4-5 days, changing the water once a day. Once the seeds are fully swollen, wrap them in moist gauze and place them at room temperature of 15-20°C to encourage sprouting. Sow after the seeds begin to germinate; this promotes fast and uniform germination. Choose fertile, loose sandy loam for the seedbed. Sow in drills with a row spacing of 20 cm and a sowing furrow depth of 2 cm. After sowing, cover with fine soil about 1 cm thick, then cover with rice straw and water thoroughly with a fine-spout watering can. Seedlings emerge after about 2 weeks; remove the straw promptly and set up a shade frame. Strengthen management during the seedling stage to promote vigorous growth. If left in the bed to grow on, the seedlings can be planted into pots in 1-2 years. Division is best done in October: dig up the clump-forming parent plant with its roots, split it apart with the roots attached, tie the roots together tightly with string, dip them in mud slurry and heel them in; then dig them out and plant in February-March of the following spring, which also roots easily. Layering can be done during the spring growing season: girdle the branch to be buried in the soil down to the xylem, bend it into the ground and cover with a thick layer of soil. Generally, layer in spring, sever from the parent plant in autumn, and lift and plant the following early spring.
Collecting from the wild: Wild redbud mostly grows under mixed mountain woods or along stream banks. Select old root stumps that are short in growth with dense branches and leaves, dig them up, and after nurturing and cultivating the embryo, wait for the root system to recover, then move them into pots for cultivation and styling.
(3) Potting Process
Choosing a pot: For redbud, relatively deep glazed ceramic pots or purple clay (zisha) pots are generally chosen, most commonly square, round or oval ones, though shallower rectangular pots are sometimes used. Pot colors of light yellow or celadon are best, to set off the branches full of purple-red flowers.
Soil: It is not demanding about soil and adapts to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline soil. For potting, use fertile, loose, well-draining leaf mold, or pond/river mud that has weathered and been mixed with sandy soil and rice-hull ash.
Planting: Usually planted in spring between February and March. When planting, shorten the main root and overly long roots, and also prune the branches and trunk appropriately, keeping only 3-4-year-old branches as the framework branches.
(4) Styling Techniques
Processing: Redbud is mostly styled by a method that emphasizes pruning, with wiring as a supplement. Generally, only the main trunk needs to be appropriately wired into the desired posture; wire wrapping is more convenient and flexible, and it is best done after flowering during the plum rain season. Branch styling is carried out by combining pruning with wiring, also best done after flowering.
Tree forms: The main bonsai styles for redbud include slanting trunk, curved trunk, weeping branch and forest styles. The natural form is also good, with branches full of purple flowers, very beautiful.
A Detailed Step-by-Step Guide to Making a Redbud Bonsai, with a Summary
Redbud is a common plant material that can be used for bonsai. Its flowers are beautiful and it has extremely high ornamental value; a redbud bonsai can also be used to decorate a living room, study or office. So, do you know what the methods, techniques and precautions are for making a redbud bonsai? Today, we will give you a detailed introduction.
Sourcing Materials and Propagation Measures
Artificial propagation: Seed sowing is the main method, though division and layering can also be used. For sowing, collect seeds in October, dry the pods in the sun and thresh them, clean off the pod shells and debris, and store in bags. Sow in February-March of the following year. Before sowing, soak the seeds in 40°C warm water for a full day and night (letting it cool naturally), then place them in clean water to soak for another 4-5 days, changing the water once a day. Once the seeds are fully swollen, wrap them in moist gauze and place them at room temperature of 15-20°C to encourage sprouting. Sow after the seeds begin to germinate; this promotes fast and uniform germination. Choose fertile, loose sandy loam for the seedbed. Sow in drills with a row spacing of 20 cm and a sowing furrow depth of 2 cm. After sowing, cover with fine soil about 1 cm thick, then cover with rice straw and water thoroughly with a fine-spout watering can. Seedlings emerge after about 2 weeks; remove the straw promptly and set up a shade frame. Strengthen management during the seedling stage to promote vigorous growth. If left in the bed to grow on, the seedlings can be planted into pots in 1-2 years. Division is best done in October: dig up the clump-forming parent plant with its roots, split it apart with the roots attached, tie the roots together tightly with string, dip them in mud slurry and heel them in; then dig them out and plant in February-March of the following spring, which also roots easily. Layering can be done during the spring growing season: girdle the branch to be buried in the soil down to the xylem, bend it into the ground and cover with a thick layer of soil. Generally, layer in spring, sever from the parent plant in autumn, and lift and plant the following early spring.
Collecting from the wild: Wild redbud mostly grows under mixed mountain woods or along stream banks. Select old root stumps that are short in growth with dense branches and leaves, dig them up, and after nurturing and cultivating the embryo, wait for the root system to recover, then move them into pots for cultivation and styling.
Potting Process
Choosing a pot: For redbud, relatively deep glazed ceramic pots or purple clay (zisha) pots are generally chosen, most commonly square, round or oval ones, though shallower rectangular pots are sometimes used. Pot colors of light yellow or celadon are best, to set off the branches full of purple-red flowers.
Soil: It is not demanding about soil and adapts to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline soil. For potting, use fertile, loose, well-draining leaf mold, or pond/river mud that has weathered and been mixed with sandy soil and rice-hull ash.
Planting: Usually planted in spring between February and March. When planting, shorten the main root and overly long roots, and also prune the branches and trunk appropriately, keeping only 3-4-year-old branches as the framework branches.
Styling Techniques
Processing: Redbud is mostly styled by a method that emphasizes pruning, with wiring as a supplement. Generally, only the main trunk needs to be appropriately wired into the desired posture; wire wrapping is more convenient and flexible, and it is best done after flowering during the plum rain season. Branch styling is carried out by combining pruning with wiring, also best done after flowering.
Tree forms: The main bonsai styles for redbud include slanting trunk, curved trunk, weeping branch and forest styles. The natural form is also good, with branches full of purple flowers, very beautiful.
That is all the content about redbud that we have covered today. We hope fellow flower lovers will find this article helpful. To learn more about redbud, please keep following Duorou Huapu (Succulent Garden); we will provide you with more related knowledge.