How to make a ginkgo bonsai? Detailed explanation of cultivation and care key points

Ginkgo is a famous long-lived tree species with strong vitality, peculiar leaf shape, and easy grafting propagation and shaping and pruning. It is a high-quality material for making bonsai. Ginkgo bonsai made from ginkgo tree milk is even more superb, with high ornamental value and economic value. Ginkgo is a commonly used tree species in Chinese bonsai. Ginkgo bonsai has thick trunks, curved branches, exposed roots, unique shapes, and is vigorous, elegant, and full of charm. It is a masterpiece in Chinese bonsai.

Pot soil preparation:

Because potted ginkgo is limited by the container, root growth is inhibited. The limited pot soil must contain sufficient fertility to maintain the needs of ginkgo growth and fruiting. Choose loose, fertile garden soil, sift it, add one third fully decomposed organic fertilizer (such as compost, barnyard manure, green manure, etc.), mix in one fifth crushed plant straw, wet the above materials with 5% human and animal urine or 1% urea water solution. The moisture level is such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and breaks apart when the hand is released. Place it in a sunny place in a pile, cover it tightly with plastic film, and ferment at high temperature for 15 to 25 days.

Container selection:

Choose different containers according to different placement locations. For viewing on a desk or windowsill, choose a ceramic or earthenware flower pot with a diameter of about 30 cm, a height of 30 cm, and a drainage hole at the bottom. For viewing in a courtyard or on a balcony, containers such as wooden barrels, small boxes, small vats, and flower pots can be used. Change the pot once every 1 to 2 years, and at the same time fill in some new humus pot soil.

Fine planting:

After the soil thaws in spring and before the seedlings sprout, choose 2-year-old robust seedlings with well-developed lateral roots, no pests or diseases, and a basal stem of 1 cm to 2 cm. Prune the root system and cut the wounds smooth to facilitate wound healing. Before planting, soak the seedlings and the new pot in water for a day and a night. First place a small piece of tile over the drainage hole of the flower pot so that it can drain water without leaking soil. Then fill half of the pot with soil, with the middle high and the surroundings low. Spread out the seedling root system, keep the root trunk upright, fill with soil, gently lift the seedling with your hand, then shake the pot to let the soil settle, and then fill with soil and press firmly. The pot soil should be 3 cm to 5 cm below the pot rim so that sufficient water can be poured. Be careful to prevent pouring only half water, which would make the top wet and the bottom dry and affect survival and growth. Water thoroughly and place in a shady place for seedling recovery.

Grafting propagation:

Choose excellent varieties with early fruiting and high yield for grafting. After three years of survival, they can bear fruit. Relatively good varieties include Tancheng No. 3, Dafozhi, Dongtinghuang, etc. Before spring sprouting, use the cleft grafting method, or from July to August use bud grafting with wood. Spring grafting sprouts in the same year, and autumn grafting survives in the same year and sprouts after cutting the rootstock in the second year.

Pruning and shaping:

According to personal appreciation level and aesthetic views, cultivate a suitable tree shape. Such as bow shape, two-layer flat-spreading type, cross shape, spindle shape, etc. For the bow shape, use iron wire with a diameter of 2 cm to 4 cm, bend it into a bow shape, fix it on the pot in the second spring, and tie the new branches along the tree shape. Complete the shaping in 3 to 4 years. The latter three tree shapes can be fixed in the expected positions by measures such as propping, pulling, and bending, and shaping and pruning can be carried out year by year. In the third year, select a strong branch on the sunny side of the upper crown and graft a male branch for pollination.

Fertilizer and water management:

Bonsai cultivation is affected by container size and soil fertility. Water in the pot evaporates relatively quickly, so observe frequently and water in time. Watering should be based on the pot soil and leaves to decide the number of waterings. Generally, water once every 1 to 2 days. In hot and dry seasons, water the roots once before 8 a.m. and once after 5 p.m. every day. Also spray the leaves to wash off dust on the leaf surface, which is beneficial to photosynthesis, increases local humidity, and meets the physiological needs of ginkgo. After leaf fall in autumn, take out the surface soil in the pot and replace it with loose and fertile nutrient soil, then water to settle it. When sprouting in early spring, apply sprouting-promoting fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer. At full flowering stage, spray 0.1% borax solution. After flowering, during the fruit enlargement period, fertilization should mainly be phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fertilization for potted ginkgo should be applied less but frequently, which can both prevent root burn and allow full absorption.

Pest and disease control:

The main insect pests of ginkgo include stinging moths and tiny leaf roller moths, etc. The main diseases include root rot and leaf blight. Root diseases are generally caused by water accumulation at the roots. Leaf blight is mainly caused by lack of fertilizer and weakened tree vigor, and is also related to high temperature. According to different pests and diseases, correct control measures should be taken. Strengthening fertilizer and water management, enhancing tree vigor, and improving tree resistance are also effective ways to prevent and control pests and diseases.

Ginkgo bonsai production and cultivation care

Container selection:

Choose different containers according to different placement locations. For viewing on a desk or windowsill, choose a ceramic or earthenware flower pot with a diameter of about 30 cm, a height of 30 cm, and a drainage hole at the bottom. For viewing in a courtyard or on a balcony, containers such as wooden barrels, small boxes, small vats, and flower pots can be used. Change the pot once every 1 to 2 years, and at the same time fill in some new humus pot soil.

Fine planting:

After the soil thaws in spring and before the seedlings sprout, choose 2-year-old robust seedlings with well-developed lateral roots, no pests or diseases, and a basal stem of 1 cm to 2 cm. Prune the root system and cut the wounds smooth to facilitate wound healing. Before planting, soak the seedlings and the new pot in water for a day and a night. First place a small piece of tile over the drainage hole of the flower pot so that it can drain water without leaking soil. Then fill half of the pot with soil, with the middle high and the surroundings low. Spread out the seedling root system, keep the root trunk upright, fill with soil, gently lift the seedling with your hand, then shake the pot to let the soil settle, and then fill with soil and press firmly. The pot soil should be 3 cm to 5 cm below the pot rim so that sufficient water can be poured. Be careful to prevent pouring only half water, which would make the top wet and the bottom dry and affect survival and growth. Water thoroughly and place in a shady place for seedling recovery.

Grafting propagation:

Choose excellent varieties with early fruiting and high yield for grafting. After three years of survival, they can bear fruit. Relatively good varieties include Tancheng No. 3, Dafozhi, Dongtinghuang, etc. Before spring sprouting, use the cleft grafting method, or from July to August use bud grafting with wood. Spring grafting sprouts in the same year, and autumn grafting survives in the same year and sprouts after cutting the rootstock in the second year.

Pruning and shaping:

According to personal appreciation level and aesthetic views, cultivate a suitable tree shape. Such as bow shape, two-layer flat-spreading type, cross shape, spindle shape, etc. For the bow shape, use iron wire with a diameter of 2 cm to 4 cm, bend it into a bow shape, fix it on the pot in the second spring, and tie the new branches along the tree shape. Complete the shaping in 3 to 4 years. The latter three tree shapes can be fixed in the expected positions by measures such as propping, pulling, and bending, and shaping and pruning can be carried out year by year. In the third year, select a strong branch on the sunny side of the upper crown and graft a male branch for pollination.

Fertilizer and water management:

Bonsai cultivation is affected by container size and soil fertility. Water in the pot evaporates relatively quickly, so observe frequently and water in time. Watering should be based on the pot soil and leaves to decide the number of waterings. Generally, water once every 1 to 2 days. In hot and dry seasons, water the roots once before 8 a.m. and once after 5 p.m. every day. Also spray the leaves to wash off dust on the leaf surface, which is beneficial to photosynthesis, increases local humidity, and meets the physiological needs of ginkgo. After leaf fall in autumn, take out the surface soil in the pot and replace it with loose and fertile nutrient soil, then water to settle it. When sprouting in early spring, apply sprouting-promoting fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer. At full flowering stage, spray 0.1% borax solution. After flowering, during the fruit enlargement period, fertilization should mainly be phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fertilization for potted ginkgo should be applied less but frequently, which can both prevent root burn and allow full absorption.

Pest and disease control:

The main insect pests of ginkgo include stinging moths and tiny leaf roller moths, etc. The main diseases include root rot and leaf blight. Root diseases are generally caused by water accumulation at the roots. Leaf blight is mainly caused by lack of fertilizer and weakened tree vigor, and is also related to high temperature. According to different pests and diseases, correct control measures should be taken. Strengthening fertilizer and water management, enhancing tree vigor, and improving tree resistance are also effective ways to prevent and control pests and diseases.

[Ginkgo Bonsai] Ginkgo bonsai cultivation and care

Today Flower and Bonsai Network shares ginkgo bonsai cultivation and care.

Ginkgo trees are relatively suitable for bonsai, and ginkgo seedlings are easy to obtain. Whether by cuttings or sowing, ginkgo seedlings can be obtained very conveniently, and ginkgo shaping is also very simple. Below, let us look specifically at the cultivation and care of ginkgo bonsai.

Pot soil preparation:

Because potted ginkgo is limited by the container, root growth is inhibited. The limited pot soil must contain sufficient fertility to maintain the needs of ginkgo growth and fruiting. Choose loose, fertile garden soil, sift it, add one third fully decomposed organic fertilizer (such as compost, barnyard manure, green manure, etc.), mix in one fifth crushed plant straw, wet the above materials with 5% human and animal urine or 1% urea water solution. The moisture level is such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and breaks apart when the hand is released. Place it in a sunny place in a pile, cover it tightly with plastic film, and ferment at high temperature for 15 to 25 days.

Container selection:

Choose different containers according to different placement locations. For viewing on a desk or windowsill, choose a ceramic or earthenware flower pot with a diameter of about 30 cm, a height of 30 cm, and a drainage hole at the bottom. For viewing in a courtyard or on a balcony, containers such as wooden barrels, small boxes, small vats, and flower pots can be used. Change the pot once every 1 to 2 years, and at the same time fill in some new humus pot soil.

Fine planting:

After the soil thaws in spring and before the seedlings sprout, choose 2-year-old robust seedlings with well-developed lateral roots, no pests or diseases, and a basal stem of 1 cm to 2 cm. Prune the root system and cut the wounds smooth to facilitate wound healing. Before planting, soak the seedlings and the new pot in water for a day and a night. First place a small piece of tile over the drainage hole of the flower pot so that it can drain water without leaking soil. Then fill half of the pot with soil, with the middle high and the surroundings low. Spread out the seedling root system, keep the root trunk upright, fill with soil, gently lift the seedling with your hand, then shake the pot to let the soil settle, and then fill with soil and press firmly. The pot soil should be 3 cm to 5 cm below the pot rim so that sufficient water can be poured. Be careful to prevent pouring only half water, which would make the top wet and the bottom dry and affect survival and growth. Water thoroughly and place in a shady place for seedling recovery.

Grafting propagation:

Choose excellent varieties with early fruiting and high yield for grafting. After three years of survival, they can bear fruit. Relatively good varieties include Tancheng No. 3, Dafozhi, Dongtinghuang, etc. Before spring sprouting, use the cleft grafting method, or from July to August use bud grafting with wood. Spring grafting sprouts in the same year, and autumn grafting survives in the same year and sprouts after cutting the rootstock in the second year.

Pruning and shaping:

According to personal appreciation level and aesthetic views, cultivate a suitable tree shape. Such as bow shape, two-layer flat-spreading type, cross shape, spindle shape, etc. For the bow shape, use iron wire with a diameter of 2 cm to 4 cm, bend it into a bow shape, fix it on the pot in the second spring, and tie the new branches along the tree shape. Complete the shaping in 3 to 4 years. The latter three tree shapes can be fixed in the expected positions by measures such as propping, pulling, and bending, and shaping and pruning can be carried out year by year. In the third year, select a strong branch on the sunny side of the upper crown and graft a male branch for pollination.

Fertilizer and water management:

Bonsai cultivation is affected by container size and soil fertility. Water in the pot evaporates relatively quickly, so observe frequently and water in time. Watering should be based on the pot soil and leaves to decide the number of waterings. Generally, water once every 1 to 2 days. In hot and dry seasons, water the roots once before 8 a.m. and once after 5 p.m. every day. Also spray the leaves to wash off dust on the leaf surface, which is beneficial to photosynthesis, increases local humidity, and meets the physiological needs of ginkgo. After leaf fall in autumn, take out the surface soil in the pot and replace it with loose and fertile nutrient soil, then water to settle it. When sprouting in early spring, apply sprouting-promoting fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer. At full flowering stage, spray 0.1% borax solution. After flowering, during the fruit enlargement period, fertilization should mainly be phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fertilization for potted ginkgo should be applied less but frequently, which can both prevent root burn and allow full absorption.

Pest and disease control:

The main insect pests of ginkgo include stinging moths and tiny leaf roller moths, etc. The main diseases include root rot and leaf blight. Root diseases are generally caused by water accumulation at the roots. Leaf blight is mainly caused by lack of fertilizer and weakened tree vigor, and is also related to high temperature. According to different pests and diseases, correct control measures should be taken. Strengthening fertilizer and water management, enhancing tree vigor, and improving tree resistance are also effective ways to prevent and control pests and diseases.