Detailed Guide to Professional Cyclamen Cultivation Techniques
Cyclamen in full bloom is deeply loved by people, used to decorate living rooms, desks, shops, restaurants and so on, dazzlingly bright and captivating. In Europe and America it is also a Christmas gift for relatives and friends.
Here are the professional cultivation methods for cyclamen:
1. Management during the germination stage - Substrate:
Requires peat and perlite with good air permeability mixed in a certain ratio, with a pH of 6 to 6.5, an EC value less than 0.5, moderate moisture, and avoid over-wetness.
Temperature: 18°C.
Light: The germination period (about 21 days) requires no light, complete darkness. The air humidity required for seed germination is 95% (a germination chamber is best); cover the plug tray with plastic film.
Covering: After sowing, cover the seeds with vermiculite or perlite, with a thickness just enough to cover the seeds.
2. Management after germination
Relative humidity: Keep it at around 85%; if necessary, mist to raise the relative humidity.
Light: When the external light intensity exceeds 35 Klux, it is recommended to use a shade net, or cover the seed plug tray with non-woven fabric to keep the seeds moist.
Fertilizing: According to the growth of the seedlings, start fertilizing from the 5th week after sowing, with an N:P:K ratio of 1:1:1. The seedling leaves should be glossy; if they turn dark red, fertilizing is needed.
Irrigation: The water temperature should be greater than 14°C; water from above.
The optimal substrate EC value is 0.8, and the maximum should not exceed 1.2. The pH is 6 to 6.5.
Transplanting: Transplant in the 10th to 11th week after sowing; super micro and mini types can be potted directly.
1. Substrate: Use peat with good air permeability mixed with a certain proportion of clay (10%) and perlite, with a pH of 6 to 6.5; adding appropriate calcium fertilizer to the substrate can achieve this. Use disposable or easily disinfected plug trays; do not use wooden plug trays.
2. Transplanting: The soil should just cover the root system, leaving the small corm exposed; never press the seedlings and surrounding soil downward with your hands.
3. Growing conditions - Relative humidity: Keep it between 65% and 85%; humidity can be increased by misting.
Light: When the external light intensity exceeds 35 Klux, it is recommended to use a shade net.
Fertilizing: According to plant growth, start fertilizing from the 1st week after transplanting, with N:P:K at 1:1:1; two weeks later the N:P:K ratio is 1:1:2. Applying nitrogen fertilizer produces larger plants, while applying potassium fertilizer produces compact plants. The irrigation water temperature should be greater than 14°C; during this period water from above. The optimal substrate EC value is 0.8, and the maximum should not exceed 1.2. The pH is 6 to 6.5.
Management: At 15 to 18 weeks after sowing or 5 to 6 weeks after transplanting, when the seedlings have 7 to 10 leaves, they can be potted. For the micro series and mini series, at 10 weeks after sowing, when the plants have 3 to 5 leaves, they can be potted directly from the plug tray.
1. Substrate: Requires peat with good air permeability mixed with a certain proportion of clay (10%) and perlite. The pH is 6 to 6.5; adding appropriate calcium fertilizer to the substrate can achieve this. The EC value is less than 0.5.
2. Potting and planting depth: Use a standard or homemade seedling-lifting system to push the seedlings out from below, being careful not to damage the roots. The soil should just cover the root system, leaving the small corm exposed; never press the seedlings and surrounding soil downward with your hands.
3. Climatic conditions - Optimal temperature: 17°C for 2 to 3 weeks after potting, after which it can be lowered to 14°C to 16°C. Relative humidity: between 60% and 85%. Note: if the daytime temperature is 25°C and the relative humidity is 50%, when the nighttime temperature drops to 13°C and the humidity reaches 100%, condensation will form, affecting growth.
4. Light: If the external light intensity is 30 Klux to 40 Klux, use a shade net with a shading rate of 75%. If the external light is 40 Klux to 73 Klux, a double-layer shade net should be used.
5. Fertilizing: Generally, the early cultivation stage requires an N:P:K ratio of 1:1:1, the middle stage requires N:P:K at 1:1:2, and the late stage requires N:P:K at 1:1:3. The substrate EC value should be less than 1.0. During high-temperature periods, the fertilizer amount should be reduced; for small varieties such as the micro series, the fertilizer amount should be reduced.
6. Watering: Water regularly, water when dry and let dry between waterings; do not touch the flowers or leaves with your hands, as this easily damages the corm and breeds diseases. For the first 6 weeks after potting, water from above; once the leaves are dense and the root system is well developed, water from the bottom or use drip irrigation. Water only in the early morning or morning.
7. Flower stem length: The length of the flower stem is affected by temperature. By raising the nighttime temperature and treating with low temperatures in the morning, the flower stem can be shortened.
8. Flowering: Cyclamen flowering is closely related to the average day-night temperature. When the average day-night temperature exceeds 27°C, its flower buds grow slowly. If the temperature is even higher, it will seriously affect flower bud growth and cause leaves to grow leggy, but after the high-temperature period the plant will continue to grow and flower. Therefore, when the average day-night temperature is greater than 27°C, the plant will enter a dormant state and the growing period will be prolonged.
9. Pest and disease control: On dry days in the early morning or evening, when no staff are in the greenhouse, spray insecticides. Ensure the plants are dry at night and that there is good air circulation between plants.
Cyclamen Pot Cultivation Techniques
Cyclamen(Cyclamen) also known as radish begonia, rabbit ear flower, yipin crown and so on, is a perennial corm flower of the genus Cyclamen in the family Primulaceae. Depending on the variety, its corm size varies greatly and the color also differs. The leaf color changes endlessly; the calyx is mostly green, but there are also white, pink and reddish-brown forms; it blooms in winter and the flowering period lasts for several months; it is one of the world's famous potted ornamental flowers. Lianjiang County introduced and promoted it from Japan in 1987; after 1995 it became popular throughout the county; since 2000 it has gradually developed toward small-scale operation by specialized households, and the cultivation management level and economic benefits have increased year by year. According to statistics, in the county seat alone there are 13 specialized households with a planting scale of more than 200 pots and an annual benefit of more than 10,000 yuan, and there are even more scattered growers. Its pot cultivation techniques are introduced as follows:
1. Biological characteristics:From seed germination to flowering and marketing, cyclamen can be roughly divided into five stages: germination stage, seedling stage, flower bud differentiation stage, accelerated growth stage and flowering stage. The suitable growth temperature is 10-20°C. It has no special requirements for photoperiod; in home pot cultivation, supplementary lighting can be used.
2. Cultivation and management techniques: 1. Preparation of nutrient soil:You can dig up pond mud before the new year or dig up surface loess from the mountains, place it outdoors in a shaded place to weather, then mix in about 1% decomposed rapeseed cake powder or manure, and mix in 10 grains of imported ternary compound fertilizer per kilogram of potting soil, to be used when repotting.
2. Selection of flower pots:The height of a cyclamen pot is generally more than 2/3 of the plant height. Large-flowered varieties mostly use pots with a diameter of 15-18cm and a pot height of 20-30cm; medium and small flowers mostly use pots with a diameter of 12-14cm and a pot height of about 16cm.
3. Potting and repotting:Generally sown from September to December; after the seedling stage, in March to April of the following year, when the seedlings grow to 6-8 true leaves, they are potted and planted. When planting, the corm must be exposed 1/3-1/2 above the soil surface, water thoroughly, then shade for 2-3 d before normal management can begin. Two weeks after potting, apply liquid fertilizer twice a month, using a 2000-fold solution with N, P and K at 65%, 60% and 19% respectively; some decomposed diluted farmyard manure water can also be used. For seedlings, the supply of potassium should especially be increased to enhance disease resistance. By May to June, one repotting can be done; if large plants are to be cultivated, repotting should be done in August to September, and the size should be somewhat larger than the original pot. The repotting operation is basically the same as potting.
4. Fertilizer and water management:Organic fertilizer is generally composted and then mixed into the nutrient soil as a base fertilizer; inorganic fertilizer is prepared into liquid fertilizer for use as a top dressing. The principle for preparing liquid fertilizer is that no precipitate is produced: first prepare a 200-fold stock solution for storage, and when watering, dilute it into a 02%-03% working solution. The liquid fertilizer is required to have a pH of 52-45; the N:P:K ratio should be 1:1:1 before mid-August, 1:2:2 after mid-August, and 1:1:1 in early October. It is best to use stored rainwater and water in the morning, following the principle of "do not water until dry, and water thoroughly when watering."
5. Shaping:This mainly consists of removing withered yellow leaves and leggy, weak thin leaves in the early stage, pulling the central leaves outward in the later stage, and removing spent flowers and diseased or damaged leaves during the flowering period. When removing flowers, use the thumb and index finger to pinch the middle-lower part of the flower stalk and twist and rotate it left and right, so that the base of the flower stalk softens and loosens and separates from the plant.
6. Main pests and diseases and their control:The main diseases are wilt disease and bacterial soft rot. The key to controlling wilt disease is reasonable watering and drenching the roots with 2000-fold benomyl or mancozeb; bacterial soft rot mostly occurs in summer during high-temperature and high-humidity periods; in the early stage of the disease, spray or apply 4000-fold streptomycin or xinzhi streptomycin and water the nutrient soil thoroughly. The main pests are mites, aphids and slugs. Mites mostly occur in the hot, dry autumn; spray with 1000-1500-fold 40% dicofol solution; to control aphids, spray with 1000-fold 80% dichlorvos emulsion, 1000-fold 20% metsulfuron-methyl EC, or 3000-fold 10% imidacloprid wettable powder; to control slugs, take advantage of their habit of hiding by day and coming out at night, and in the young stage spray with 1000-fold 20% guangshaling solution or 1000-fold 20% metsulfuron-methyl EC, combined with manual capture for better results.
Cyclamen cultivation methods | Cyclamen pictures
Introduction to cyclamenCyclamen (scientific name: Cyclamen persicum), also known as radish begonia, rabbit ear flower, rabbit flower, yipin crown, bonfire flower, fan-petal lotus, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Cyclamen in the family Myrsinaceae. Cyclamen is a commonly grown flower, suitable for growing in indoor flower pots, and in winter requires greenhouse cultivation. Some cultivated varieties of cyclamen have a rich fragrance, while others have a light or no fragrance. The word "cyclamen" comes from the transliteration of the scientific name Cyclamen; because the transliteration is clever, the flower name carries the meaning of "immortal guests arriving gracefully." Cyclamen is the city flower of Qingzhou City, Shandong Province, and was also the mascot of the 43rd World Table Tennis Championships held in Tianjin in 1995. Cyclamen cultivation methods
Cyclamen likes a sunny, moist and cool environment, but fears wet waterlogging. The substrate needs to be loose, air-permeable, well-drained, slightly acidic soil; generally, a mixed substrate of peat and perlite is used for cultivation. A mixture of leaf mold and cinder ash can also be used for cultivation. When cultivating, the substrate must be disinfected and sterilized to prevent damping-off, root rot and so on. Cyclamen likes a warm environment and is not tolerant of high temperatures or severe cold; the maximum temperature must not exceed 30°C, otherwise it will enter a dormant state, and a high temperature of around 35°C easily causes rot and necrosis. In winter it is best to keep it between 10-20°C; when below 5°C, growth is inhibited, leaves curl, and flowers also open poorly with dull colors.
In summer, place it in a moist, ventilated place, and keep the potting soil in a certain dry state so that it can fully dormant through the summer. It likes a moist environment and is not tolerant of dryness; during the growing period it needs to be kept at a humidity of 60-70%, which can make the leaf color deep green and glossy. In winter it must also not be placed where heating or air conditioning can directly affect it, to prevent wilting and drying out from wind. When misting, avoid the flowers to prevent them from fading prematurely. The water temperature should be close to room temperature. During the growing period, sufficient light is needed for long-lasting flowering and vivid flower color. Placing it in semi-shade can only be for brief appreciation, and shady environments must be avoided even more, otherwise both leaf color and flower color will fade, the plant will weaken, and in severe cases it will be difficult to recover, until it declines and dries up. Cyclamen likes water but also fears wetness; the potting soil needs to remain moist, but water accumulation or waterlogging must be strictly prevented, otherwise once the root system rots, the whole plant will quickly die. Because the entire cyclamen plant is fleshy, it is also not drought-tolerant; if water is not supplied in time, the leaves will quickly turn yellow and wilt, and even after supplementary watering, many leaves will still turn yellow and need pruning, seriously affecting the appearance and growth of the whole plant.
When cyclamen is generally enjoyed at home, it has already entered the flowering period, so basically no fertilizing is needed, otherwise the flowering period will be noticeably shortened, or flowers and buds may even drop. Fertilizing is generally chosen during the vegetative growth period, where nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium need to be balanced; during the flower bud development period, the application amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer needs to be increased, but concentrated fertilizer, strong fertilizer or raw fertilizer must absolutely not be applied, otherwise fertilizer damage is very likely to occur and the whole plant will die. If liquid fertilizer is applied, it needs to be poured slowly from the edge of the pot, not from the top of the plant, and after fertilizing, rinse the leaf surface with clean water. At home, cyclamen generally does not need to be propagated by oneself, but once a year after the dormant period, after new shoots sprout, a repotting and soil-changing operation can be done; when repotting and changing soil, attention should be paid to leaving 2/3-1/2 of the corm exposed above the soil surface, so as to prevent the corm from rotting in the soil due to excessive moisture.
Cyclamen in full bloom is deeply loved by people, used to decorate living rooms, desks, shops, restaurants and so on, dazzlingly bright and captivating. In Europe and America it is also a Christmas gift for relatives and friends. Here are the professional cultivation methods for cyclamen:
1. Management during the germination stage - Substrate：
Requires peat and perlite with good air permeability mixed in a certain ratio, with a pH of 6 to 6.5, an EC value less than 0.5, moderate moisture, and avoid over-wetness.
Temperature: 18°C.
Light: The germination period (about 21 days) requires no light, complete darkness. The air humidity required for seed germination is 95% (a germination chamber is best); cover the plug tray with plastic film.
Covering: After sowing, cover the seeds with vermiculite or perlite, with a thickness just enough to cover the seeds.
2. Management after germination
Relative humidity: Keep it at around 85%; if necessary, mist to raise the relative humidity.
Light: When the external light intensity exceeds 35 Klux, it is recommended to use a shade net, or cover the seed plug tray with non-woven fabric to keep the seeds moist.
Fertilizing: According to the growth of the seedlings, start fertilizing from the 5th week after sowing, with an N:P:K ratio of 1:1:1. The seedling leaves should be glossy; if they turn dark red, fertilizing is needed.
Irrigation: The water temperature should be greater than 14°C; water from above.
The optimal substrate EC value is 0.8, and the maximum should not exceed 1.2. The pH is 6 to 6.5.
Transplanting: Transplant in the 10th to 11th week after sowing; super micro and mini types can be potted directly.
1. Substrate: Use peat with good air permeability mixed with a certain proportion of clay (10%) and perlite, with a pH of 6 to 6.5; adding appropriate calcium fertilizer to the substrate can achieve this. Use disposable or easily disinfected plug trays; do not use wooden plug trays.
2. Transplanting: The soil should just cover the root system, leaving the small corm exposed; never press the seedlings and surrounding soil downward with your hands.
3. Growing conditions - Relative humidity: Keep it between 65% and 85%; humidity can be increased by misting.
Light: When the external light intensity exceeds 35 Klux, it is recommended to use a shade net.
Fertilizing: According to plant growth, start fertilizing from the 1st week after transplanting, with N:P:K at 1:1:1; two weeks later the N:P:K ratio is 1:1:2. Applying nitrogen fertilizer produces larger plants, while applying potassium fertilizer produces compact plants. The irrigation water temperature should be greater than 14°C; during this period water from above. The optimal substrate EC value is 0.8, and the maximum should not exceed 1.2. The pH is 6 to 6.5.
Management: At 15 to 18 weeks after sowing or 5 to 6 weeks after transplanting, when the seedlings have 7 to 10 leaves, they can be potted. For the micro series and mini series, at 10 weeks after sowing, when the plants have 3 to 5 leaves, they can be potted directly from the plug tray.
1. Substrate: Requires peat with good air permeability mixed with a certain proportion of clay (10%) and perlite. The pH is 6 to 6.5; adding appropriate calcium fertilizer to the substrate can achieve this. The EC value is less than 0.5.
2. Potting and planting depth: Use a standard or homemade seedling-lifting system to push the seedlings out from below, being careful not to damage the roots. The soil should just cover the root system, leaving the small corm exposed; never press the seedlings and surrounding soil downward with your hands.
3. Climatic conditions - Optimal temperature: 17°C for 2 to 3 weeks after potting, after which it can be lowered to 14°C to 16°C. Relative humidity: between 60% and 85%. Note: if the daytime temperature is 25°C and the relative humidity is 50%, when the nighttime temperature drops to 13°C and the humidity reaches 100%, condensation will form, affecting growth.
4. Light: If the external light intensity is 30 Klux to 40 Klux, use a shade net with a shading rate of 75%. If the external light is 40 Klux to 73 Klux, a double-layer shade net should be used.
5. Fertilizing: Generally, the early cultivation stage requires an N:P:K ratio of 1:1:1, the middle stage requires N:P:K at 1:1:2, and the late stage requires N:P:K at 1:1:3. The substrate EC value should be less than 1.0. During high-temperature periods, the fertilizer amount should be reduced; for small varieties such as the micro series, the fertilizer amount should be reduced.
6. Watering: Water regularly, water when dry and let dry between waterings; do not touch the flowers or leaves with your hands, as this easily damages the corm and breeds diseases. For the first 6 weeks after potting, water from above; once the leaves are dense and the root system is well developed, water from the bottom or use drip irrigation. Water only in the early morning or morning.
7. Flower stem length: The length of the flower stem is affected by temperature. By raising the nighttime temperature and treating with low temperatures in the morning, the flower stem can be shortened.
8. Flowering: Cyclamen flowering is closely related to the average day-night temperature. When the average day-night temperature exceeds 27°C, its flower buds grow slowly. If the temperature is even higher, it will seriously affect flower bud growth and cause leaves to grow leggy, but after the high-temperature period the plant will continue to grow and flower. Therefore, when the average day-night temperature is greater than 27°C, the plant will enter a dormant state and the growing period will be prolonged.
9. Pest and disease control: On dry days in the early morning or evening, when no staff are in the greenhouse, spray insecticides. Ensure the plants are dry at night and that there is good air circulation between plants.
Sowing and Propagation of Cyclamen
Cyclamen's flowering period runs from November of the current year to March of the following year, flowering successively on the flower stems emerging from the corm, with the peak flowering period from late November to late January. From flower fade to seed maturity takes about two and a half months; when the fruit turns yellow and soft and its top shows slight cracking, it can be picked. Its seeds are relatively large, with 30-40 seeds per flower; they must be harvested in time, air-dried in the shade for 3-4 days and then sun-dried. Stored seeds should be protected from moisture and kept ventilated, and their germination capacity can be maintained for three years. Because different cyclamen varieties easily cross naturally, the characteristics and traits of the varieties often change; to prevent mixing and preserve pure strains, bags should be placed over the flowers kept for seed.
For cyclamen sowing and propagation, sowing after the start of autumn or before minor snow is better; soaking the seeds in water overnight before sowing can promote earlier germination. The usual method is spot sowing, generally raised in pots, with a hole spacing of about 2 cm, covered with about 1 cm of soil, and the pot surface covered with a glass pane. Water once after sowing, then keep it from drying out; germination occurs after about 40 days. After the seedlings produce two cotyledons, they can be moved into small pots with a bamboo piece, and gradually changed to larger pots according to growth; if transplanting is delayed, the plants become weak and may fail to form a corm. For planting, a pot with a diameter of 15 cm is best. The culture soil should be sandy loam rich in humus; when planting, the small corm should not be buried too deep, generally with its top level with the soil surface. Cultivation for 2 years can produce flowers.
In management, attention should be paid to watering, but watering should not be excessive; it is enough to keep it often moist. When misting, spray the water onto the leaves, not onto the flowers; if it is too dry, wilting will occur, and watering at that point can no longer restore vitality. Cyclamen likes fertilizer, but it must be applied diluted and frequently; if a concentrated fertilizer is applied too much at one time, it will wilt and die. Generally, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once every week (1 part liquid fertilizer to 8 parts water is appropriate), and do not pour it on the leaves; if water and fertilizer are inadequate during the flowering period, the flowers will still be vivid. The most suitable temperature for cyclamen growth is 15-20 degrees; when the summer temperature reaches 28 degrees, the leaves easily turn yellow and wilt and growth stops; at this time place the pot in a cool, ventilated place so that the small corm does not go dormant. It is sensitive to frost; after October it should be moved to a sunny place indoors, with appropriate attention to keeping warm and keeping the room from freezing, so that it flowers successively. Stop fertilizing when flowering, and water appropriately; if watered too much, the flowers fade quickly.
Experienced old flower growers often say about cultivating cyclamen, "raise the young, not the old." In the first 2-3 years in a pot, cyclamen has abundant flowers and lush leaves with vivid colors; afterward, if it remains in the original pot, it will gradually weaken, often having flowers but no leaves or leaves but no flowers, or even rotting corms. For handling old corms, after the start of autumn you can dig up the old corm, remove the daughter corms from the old corm, and if the old corm has decayed parts, remove them too; replace the soil in the pot with fresh fertile soil and replant, being careful not to plant it deep, with most of it exposed above the soil. In management it is the same as daughter corms or small corms grown from seed, and it can still grow vigorously with lush leaves and abundant flowers.
How to help cyclamen safely pass the summer.
1. Shading and rain protection: From mid-April to early May, cyclamen enters the shade-shed maintenance stage. Set up the shade shed, using a 60-65% shading net; under the shade shed build a small arched shed, 2-2.5 m wide and 1 m high, with the length depending on the quantity. Place plastic film along the sides of the shed, cover it with the film on rainy days, and uncover it when the rain stops.
2. Watering: During the 5 months from May to September, the growth of cyclamen is closely related to watering; during these 5 months, watering should preferably be done the next morning. Cyclamen watering should not let the soil dry out completely; it should be kept at half moisture, that is, the potting soil should maintain a water content of 50-60%. The reason is that cyclamen is an aerobic plant, and the root system respires at every moment; too much soil moisture will inevitably displace air, causing root hypoxia, resulting in the death of cyclamen's fibrous roots and hindering growth.
3. Top dressing: There are two kinds of top dressing for cyclamen, organic fertilizer and inorganic fertilizer; here only inorganic fertilizer is discussed. In June-July and September-October, use compound fertilizer or mixed fertilizer with all three elements complete, such as Sakefu, which contains 15% each of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and 18% sulfur. Dissolve it in water and irrigate at about two parts per thousand. In addition, potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be applied as a foliar spray top dressing at a concentration of two parts per thousand. Cyclamen is a chlorine-sensitive plant, and fertilizer with excessively high chlorine content must never be applied at any time, generally limited to no more than 5%. Compound fertilizers that are not understood should be tested before use; the local technical supervision bureau can all perform the tests.
4、Pest and Disease Control of Cyclamen：
(1) Nematode disease, tea tarsonemid mite and viral disease: the common symptom of these three diseases is unevenness on the leaves. If there are root nodules on the roots, it is nematode disease; if there are rust-like patches on the back of old leaves, it is tea tarsonemid mite; if there is no rust on the back of the leaves and no root nodules on the roots, it is viral disease. The method to control nematode disease is to add carbofuran to the soil; together with the watering method mentioned above, nematode disease can be effectively controlled. Once nematodes occur, the drying method can be used to control their development. The drying method is not to water, and to hoe the potting soil until it is dry enough that the cyclamen will not die; then water heavily once, let it dry slightly and hoe again, then dry again, and repeat this many times to control nematode reproduction. To prevent tea tarsonemid mite, use systemic phosphorus insecticides such as dimethoate and monocrotophos. In August-September, spray once every half month. For viral disease control: 30 days after potting the seedlings, spray virus A or virus No. 1 once a month.
(2) Leaf spot disease: when it occurs, spray once every 5-7 days.
(3) Cabbage caterpillar: September is the time when cabbage caterpillar damage is severe; use new-generation pesticides for control, such as insecticidal and avermectin EC; the key is once every 6-7 days until eliminated.
(4) Cutworm: Cutworms are prone to occur in July-August. If found, they can only be captured manually; cutworms come out at night and hide in the soil during the day. Carefully check the looseness of the potting soil. Gently probe open with a wire and they can be found.
(5) Soft rot: mainly occurs in August-September; in warm sheds it also occurs as long as temperature and humidity are suitable. This disease should be mainly prevented; after occurrence, use junlike, thiophanate-methyl and agricultural streptomycin alternately. In August, any form of top dressing is prohibited; spray promptly to prevent leaf spot disease. If leaf spot disease is found, promptly remove diseased leaves and rotten leaves and burn them, and at the same time spray junlike, agricultural streptomycin and other drugs for control.
(6) Rain protection is an important measure to prevent the occurrence of many diseases.
(7) Gray mold. The main symptom is water-soaked small spots 1-2 mm in diameter at the diseased site, which gradually expand and become brown rot. When the petiole or flower stalk is infected, the leaf or flower bends and breaks, and there is a gray mold layer at the diseased site, which later becomes earthy yellow mold. The cause is excessively high humidity and poor ventilation. For control: first, ventilate promptly to reduce air humidity; second, promptly remove diseased leaves to reduce sources of infection; third, spray broad-spectrum fungicides such as zineb and carbendazim.
(8) Soft rot. It is mostly caused by bacterial infection. The diseased part shows soft rot, and the site of occurrence is mostly the corm. It is mainly due to incomplete or absent substrate disinfection, and it easily occurs under high temperature or high humidity. For control, spray agricultural streptomycin or carbendazim and so on.