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What are the cutting propagation methods for Sorbaria sorbifolia?

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Sorbaria sorbifolia is native to northern Asia, and in China it is distributed in Hebei, Henan, Shaanxi, Gansu, Shandong, Shanxi, Inner Mongolia and other places. It likes sunlight and has strong shade tolerance, and is cold-resistant, moisture-resistant and drought-resistant. It is not demanding about soil and can grow normally in ordinary soil, while growing more vigorously in moist, fertile soil.

Sorbaria sorbifolia is native to northern Asia, and in China it is distributed in Hebei, Henan, Shaanxi, Gansu, Shandong, Shanxi, Inner Mongolia and other places. It likes sunlight and has strong shade tolerance, and is cold-resistant, moisture-resistant and drought-resistant. It is not demanding about soil and can grow normally in ordinary soil, while growing more vigorously in moist, fertile soil. It is commonly cultivated in garden green spaces and residential courtyards in northern China. It grows relatively fast, has strong suckering ability, and tolerates pruning. The method of removing old branches can be used to alternate old and new, constantly renewing and rejuvenating the plant. During the growing season, if seeds are not being collected, the remaining flower branches should be cut off at any time after flowering to maintain a perfect plant shape.

How to propagate Sorbaria sorbifolia by cuttings

1. Seed collection and treatment: Collect seeds from September to October each year. First place the capsules in a ventilated, cool room, dry them in the shade, rub them gently, remove the seed shells and impurities, and store them in paper bags.

2. Land preparation and bed making: Choose a flat plot with good drainage as the seedling-raising site; greenhouse seedling raising can also be used. The soil of the seedling site should be loose and fairly fertile. For low-bed seedling raising, the bed surface is 1.0-1.2 m wide and 5-10 m long. Deeply plow, remove debris and weeds, use carbofuran or phoxim to kill insects, and use carbendazim to disinfect the soil. Irrigate fully before sowing.

3. Sowing method: Sorbaria sorbifolia seeds are tiny, so the water-sitting method is used for sowing. At sowing time, the soil should preferably be moist but not sticky. Rake the ground level and fine, mix the seeds with soil and broadcast them, then cover with a thin layer of fine soil, preferably forest humus soil, and immediately sprinkle water with a watering can so that the seeds and soil are tightly combined.

4. Seedling-stage management: After sowing, cover the ground surface with a shade net and sprinkle water 1-2 times a day. Open-field seedlings emerge in 3-5 days, and greenhouse seedlings emerge in 2-4 days. During the emergence period, the soil must be kept moist. After the seedlings emerge completely, gradually reduce the shading time and increase the sunlight time. Greenhouse seedlings can have the shade net removed after about 20 days, and open-field seedlings after about 30 days. For open-field sowing and seedling raising, after 1 year the seedlings are 5-15 cm tall, and in the 2nd year they can grow to about 50 cm. Two-year-old seedlings are transplanted and planted at a spacing of 40 cm × 60 cm, and are ready for outplanting in 4-5 years. For greenhouse seedling raising, the height can reach 30-50 cm in the current year, and they are transplanted and planted in the open field in the 2nd year, and are ready for outplanting in 3-4 years.

Economic value: It can be cultivated for ornamental use; the stem bark, branches and fruit spikes are used as medicine, which can invigorate blood and disperse stasis, reduce swelling and relieve pain, and is mainly used to treat fractures, bruises and rheumatic arthritis.

How to propagate Bougainvillea, the cutting propagation method for Bougainvillea

How to propagate Bougainvillea: Bougainvillea is a flowering plant that is very easy to propagate. After the weather warms up in spring, cuttings can be taken, and the success rate of propagation is especially high. Let us take a look at how to take cuttings so they succeed well, and how to promote Bougainvillea to bloom faster.

Bougainvillea cutting propagation method 1. Selection of cutting time

For cutting propagation, it is best to choose spring, followed by summer and autumn. After the weather warms up in spring, cuttings can be taken.

Indoor cuttings in winter are also feasible, provided of course that there is heating indoors, maintaining a temperature of about 20-25 degrees.

2. Selection of pot and soil for cuttings

Generally, a pot with good drainage is used for cultivation, and the soil is the commonly used sandy soil. River sand, leaf mold and garden soil can be mixed and used together, or peat soil and perlite can be mixed in a 1:1 ratio.

Before propagating the branches by cuttings, the pot soil needs to be disinfected. It can be exposed to the sun, but in winter the sun is not strong enough, so carbendazim can be diluted with water and poured on.

After disinfection, add softwood one-year-old branches. Branches that are too old are very difficult to root as cuttings, while softwood branches are still very easy to propagate successfully.

3. Cultivation precautions

For cuttings, note that the cut must be flat, and the tool used to cut the branches must be sharp. Disinfect it in advance, and be sure to disinfect before cutting Bougainvillea from different plants to avoid cross-infection.

Keep the care environment warm, slightly moist and shaded, keep the pot soil slightly moist, and avoid the soil becoming too dry. In this way it is easy to ensure the success rate of cuttings.

How to grow Bougainvillea so it blooms easily? 1. Appropriate drought

Appropriate dryness can make it produce more flowers. Of course, it must not be too dry, as that will make the soil harden and cause the plant to be pressed so it cannot breathe (not air-permeable).

2. Regular fertilization

Bougainvillea certainly likes fertilizer, and the key is to apply thin fertilizer frequently. Too frequent fertilization will cause the plant's branches and leaves to grow too luxuriantly.

Also note not to fertilize randomly. If you apply concentrated fertilizer, that can very easily kill Bougainvillea. Do not use only high-phosphorus fertilizer either. The best is of course organic fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer, which have the best effect.

4. Appropriate pruning

Bougainvillea pruning is done after flowering and in early winter. The purpose of pruning after flowering is to adjust the plant shape and prompt the next batch of flowers to open earlier, so the remaining flowers should be cut off as early as possible, and the whole plant should be pruned so that it blooms at the same time next time.

For Bougainvillea grown on a balcony, generally all the new branches of the current year are cut off from the old branches of the previous year.

5. Why does Bougainvillea not bloom?

If there is sufficient sunlight, then it is usually caused by overwatering. Watering should be appropriately reduced, and the pot soil should be allowed to dry for a while before watering again, keeping the environment relatively dry. Too moist is not acceptable; it likes coolness.

Bougainvillea propagation methods, Bougainvillea cutting propagation

Bougainvillea cutting propagation

a. Early preparation for cuttings

The first thing to prepare is naturally the soil substrate. Sandy soil can be used, with some perlite and peat added.

Then comes the flower pot. Bougainvillea is not demanding about flower pots; a simple plastic pot is enough.

Finally, prepare the branches to be used for cuttings. Cut strong branches of the current year's growth that have already become woody or semi-woody.

b. Bougainvillea cuttings

Cutting propagation method

Insert the cutting branch into the mud block to a depth of about 7-8 cm, leaving the node with leaves exposed.

After inserting, water thoroughly, cover the entire surface of the flower pot with a layer of plastic wrap to maintain humidity, and place it somewhere that can receive scattered light.

c. Care and management after cuttings

The most important things in Bougainvillea care are, first, maintaining moisture, and second, air permeability.

If moisture is insufficient, the leaves will wilt and scorch, which is no good. Check frequently. If the flower mud is dry and the leaves wilt, spray some water.

Open the plastic wrap every evening for appropriate ventilation. If it is too stuffy and hot inside, the branches will become moldy and the plant will basically not survive.

Air layering propagation of Bougainvillea

Air layering propagation, that is, high-altitude layering propagation.

a. Advantages of air layering propagation

First, the survival rate is high. As long as the root system is not damaged, branches that have rooted through air layering can basically all survive after being cut off and transplanted.

Second, there is basically no need for seedling acclimation.

Third, it is easy to shape. After air layering, the branch is transplanted into a new pot and with a little pruning will immediately grow into a healthy and beautiful bonsai flower.

b. Steps of the air layering propagation method

First, make a ring cut of about 3 mm width on the branch to be air-layered, two inches above the branching point of the mother plant. And clean off the outer bark.

Air layering propagation of Bougainvillea

Wrap the branch with fertile, moist soil, then tie both ends tightly with a plastic bag.

Once wrapped in the plastic bag, it generally will not lose water and dry out. If the soil dries, water can be injected with a syringe.

After more than a month, many roots can be seen through the plastic bag, and then it can be cut off and transplanted.

Bougainvillea propagation methods

1. Selection of cutting branches: Bougainvillea branches, whether as thick as an arm or as thin as a incense stick, can all be used for cuttings; thick branches root late but shape quickly; one-year-old woody green branches easily produce new roots and have a high survival rate. Generally choose tightly structured, thick 1-2-year-old outer-layer sun-facing branches. (Do not use overly thin branches, immature branches, leggy branches, or shaded branches.) Use a sharp knife to cut them into sections of 3-4 nodes (about 8-10 cm long). The lower oblique cut surface is 5-10 mm below the node. Remove the lower leaves and keep the upper two and a half (whole) leaves as the cutting.

2. The cutting substrate should preferably be vermiculite, perlite + vermiculite, clean sand, or sandy loam (plain soil). Before use, place it in a basin and pour boiling water over it several times to sterilize, then use after it cools. Water cuttings can also be used.

3. Master the season for cuttings. In Hangzhou, late May to early June, before the rainy season, is the best time for cuttings. (There are differences among places; for example, some articles introduce that in Hainan October to March of the following year is best, and in Fuzhou spring, summer and autumn are all suitable.) At this time the temperature is suitable (20-30 degrees) and the humidity is high, making management convenient. First use a small wooden stick slightly thicker than the cutting branch to make slanted holes in the substrate. Insert the cutting branch to a depth of about 4-6 cm, water it, and move it to a slightly shaded place for care.

4. Care: Light should be appropriate: within 15 days, provide sparse light (it should not be too shady; on sunny days shade about 50 percent), then gradually increase light. New roots grow in 20-30 days, and after about 25 days provide full sun; only by fully receiving sunlight can the new roots be robust. Moisture retention: within 20 days, if the weather is dry, cover with plastic wrap to retain moisture, leaving ventilation holes. In the evening uncover for ventilation, spray water, then cover again.

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