A Detailed Guide to the Cultivation Methods and Garden Uses of Chloranthus spicatus
Plant name: Chloranthus spicatus. Common names: Zhulan, Yuzilan, Chalan. Latin name: Chloranthus spicatus. Chloranthus spicatus is vigorous by nature and easy to cultivate. It prefers shady, humid environments and fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil. It fears direct sun and is slightly cold-tolerant. It is propagated by division, carried out in spring and autumn.
Plant name: Chloranthus spicatus
Common names: Zhulan, Yuzilan, Chalan
Latin name: Chloranthus spicatus.
Chloranthus spicatus is vigorous by nature and easy to cultivate. It prefers shady, humid environments and fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil. It fears direct sun and is slightly cold-tolerant. It is propagated by division, carried out in spring and autumn; stem sections that have already rooted at the nodes can also be cut off and planted. After flowering, prune and apply liquid fertilizer to maintain a beautiful plant shape and ensure more flowers the following year. Division, cuttings and layering can all be used for propagation. Division is carried out in early spring, when the temperature must not be lower than 5°C. Cuttings are taken during the plum rain season, using robust 2-year-old branches 6-10 cm long; in autumn, tender shoots of the current year are taken for cuttings. The growing medium is a mix of coarse river sand, leaf mold and the like, kept moist, but it must have good drainage. Roots form in 40 days. Layering can be carried out throughout the year except in excessively cold or hot weather.
Chloranthus spicatus is extremely well suited to pot cultivation, mostly in small to medium pots. Its flowers are golden yellow, its branches and leaves are fresh green, and its fragrance resembles that of orchids, elegant and refined. It can be placed in a corner of a room or on a stand, and in a smaller space it retains its fragrance even better. It can also be planted beside rocks or under trees.
What are the effects and uses of Sarcandra glabra? Cultivation techniques for Sarcandra glabra
[Common questions]What are the effects and uses of Sarcandra glabra? How should it be grown?
[Expert answer]Sarcandra glabra is a perennial evergreen subshrub, also known as Jiujiefeng, Jiujiecha and so on. Used as medicine, it has effects such as clearing heat and detoxifying, dispelling wind and invigorating blood. It is a common source of medicinal material, combining both medicinal value and cultivation benefits. The effects, uses and cultivation techniques of Sarcandra glabra are introduced below:
Image: Sarcandra glabra cultivation
I. Effects and uses of Sarcandra glabra
1. Treating traumatic injuries, fractures and rheumatoid arthritis:Mash fresh Chloranthus spicatus herb, fry it with wine and apply to the affected area, or soak 5 qian to 1 liang of the root in wine and take it.
2. Treating low back pain from overexertion:Take 5 qian each of Jiegucha, Sikuaiwa and Tuixuecao, simmer with wine and take.
3. Treating stomach pain:Take 5 qian of Jiegucha, simmer in water and take.
4. Treating bleeding from external injuries:Mash fresh Chloranthus spicatus leaves and apply to the affected area.
5. Treating festering wounds:Take an appropriate amount of Chloranthus spicatus stems and leaves, decoct in water and wash externally.
6. Treating scalds and burns:Take 1 part of ground dried Jiujiecha leaves and 2 parts tea oil, mix well and apply externally.
Image: Sarcandra glabra
II. Cultivation techniques for Sarcandra glabra
1. Transplanting and filling in missing plants:Seedlings of Sarcandra glabra grown from seed and cuttings are generally transplanted in November-December of the same year or in February-March of the following spring. On the prepared beds, plant them at a spacing of 20×30 cm and water thoroughly to settle the roots. After they survive, field management must be strengthened in time. After transplanting, check the seedlings promptly; if dead or missing plants are found, replant them with soil to ensure a full stand.
2. Cultivation and irrigation/drainage:During the seedling stage of Sarcandra glabra, weeds in the field must be removed promptly, and appropriate shallow cultivation and loosening of the soil should be carried out. Generally, cultivate 3-4 times a year to keep the soil loose and the field free of weeds. After planting, keep the soil moist at all times; in case of drought, irrigate promptly. In the rainy season, if water accumulates in the field, drain it promptly to avoid root rot.
3. Reasonable topdressing:Sarcandra glabra likes fertilizer. Generally, topdress once each in spring and summer every year, applying 6-7 kg of ammonium nitrate or urea and 2-3 kg of potassium chloride per mu, watered on. In winter, combine with earthing up and apply 1 application of farmyard manure, placing pen manure or composted manure at the root zone of the plants and covering the fertilizer with soil from the ditch edge; this both preserves warmth and protects against cold and promotes early, rapid growth of the plants the following spring.
4. Intercropping for shade:Sarcandra glabra has strong shade tolerance and prefers diffuse light, so it is suitable for planting under evergreen broad-leaved forest. If planted on slopes or terraced fields without shade, tall crops such as corn can be intercropped in the field to provide appropriate shade. Through the management of the intercrops, the growth of Sarcandra glabra can be promoted while economic income can also be increased.
5. Pest and disease control:Sarcandra glabra has only recently been brought from the wild into cultivation and has strong resistance to pests and diseases. At present, no pests or diseases causing serious damage have been found, so no control is needed. However, if the shading conditions in the field are poor, leaf scorch may occur in summer under strong sunlight, with spot blight appearing at the leaf tips or leaf margins, and in severe cases the whole leaf withers and scorches. Measures such as watering to lower the temperature and improving shading conditions can be used to reduce the damage.
6. Harvesting and processing:The active ingredient content in the leaves of Sarcandra glabra is higher than in the roots and stems. During the growing period, the dark green old leaves on the lower part of the plant can be picked off and dried in the sun or directly processed into extract. In autumn, cut the plant 5-10 cm above the ground, wash it clean and dry it in the sun for medicinal use. It can also be directly processed into extract and handed to pharmaceutical factories as a raw material for producing Chinese patent medicines. Generally, in the year of planting, each mu can yield 200-300 kg of dried product, and the yield can increase year by year thereafter, reaching more than 600 kg per mu at the highest.
[Editor's summary]Sarcandra glabra can not only be used as medicine, but can also be used for greening and embellishment in gardens and courtyards, possessing extremely high medicinal, culinary and ornamental value. The above has introduced the effects, uses and cultivation techniques of Sarcandra glabra for everyone, and I hope it can help you!
Landscape plant design and landscaping for indoor spaces
Indoor plant landscaping is when people further introduce plants from the natural world into self-use architectural spaces such as living rooms, reception rooms, studies and offices, as well as public shared architectural spaces such as supermarkets, hotels, cafes, indoor swimming pools and exhibition greenhouses. Self-use spaces generally have a certain privacy, are relatively small in area, and are mainly used for resting, studying and conversing, so the plant landscape should be elegant and tranquil. Shared spaces are mainly for strolling and viewing, though people also sit there to eat, drink and rest, and the spaces are generally larger, so the plant landscape should be lively, rich and colorful, and may even include terrain, hills, water, small bridges and other structures, such as the landscape in the shared space of the lobby of the White Swan Hotel in Guangzhou and the Kunlun Hotel in Beijing. Indoor plant landscaping requires scientifically selecting shade-tolerant plants and giving careful, special maintenance management, reasonable design and artistic layout, plus modern artificial equipment for lighting, heating, ventilation and air conditioning to improve indoor environmental conditions. This creates an environment that is both conducive to plant growth and in line with people's living and working requirements and their physiological and psychological needs, making people feel comfortable, elegant and beautiful, as if they were in a tranquil and beautiful natural world.As early as the 17th century, indoor greening was already in its embryonic stage, and Aspidistra elatior and Clivia nobilis were the earliest plants selected for indoor greening. In the early 19th century, cacti were all the rage for a time, after which ferns, Impatiens and others were successively adopted, and the variety became ever greater. The development of recent decades has brought indoor greening to a stage of prosperity and flourishing.
Section 1. Ecological conditions of the indoor environment
Indoor ecological conditions differ greatly from outdoor conditions. Usually light is insufficient, air humidity is low, air circulation is poor, and temperature is relatively constant. Therefore, it is not favorable for plant growth. To ensure conditions for plant growth, in addition to selecting plant species that are better able to adapt to indoor growth, artificial equipment must also be used to improve indoor light, temperature, air humidity, ventilation and other conditions so as to maintain plant growth.
I. Light
(1) Overview of indoor light
The main ecological factor limiting plant growth indoors is light. If light intensity does not reach above the light compensation point, plant growth will weaken and may even lead to death. Based on various domestic and foreign materials on the relationship between light and plant growth, it is generally believed that below a light intensity of 300 lx, plants cannot maintain growth; at an illuminance of 300-800 lx, if 8-12 hours can be guaranteed each day, plants can maintain growth and may even add a small number of new leaves; at an illuminance of 800-1600 lx, if 8-12 hours can be maintained each day, plants grow well and can replace their leaves; at an illuminance above 1600 lx, if maintained for 12 hours a day, they may even flower. Apart from conditions with skylights or floor-to-ceiling windows, ordinary indoor diffuse light alone cannot meet the normal growth needs of plants.
(2) Sources and distribution of indoor light
1. Natural light: comes from skylights, side windows, roofs, patios and other places. Natural light contains all the spectral components needed for plant growth and costs nothing, but it is affected by latitude, season and weather conditions, and the indoor light-receiving surface also varies with orientation, glass quality and so on. Generally, lighting from roofs and skylights is best; plants are less disturbed, both light intensity and area are greater, light distribution is uniform, and plants grow evenly. Side-window lighting, however, has lower light intensity and a smaller area, and causes plants to grow laterally. The orientation of side windows likewise affects indoor light intensity.
Direct light: South windows, east windows and west windows all have direct light, with south windows having the most direct light and the longest duration, so near south windows one can place plant species with high light requirements, even a small number of flowering kinds, such as cacti, Schlumbergera and Rhododendron. When curtains are used to block the light, slightly shade-tolerant plants such as Sansevieria trifasciata and Chlorophytum comosum can be grown.
Bright light: East and west windows, apart from short periods of direct light, are mostly diffuse light, with a light intensity only 20%-25% of direct light. West windows have strong afternoon sunlight, so in summer they should be appropriately shaded, while in winter they can supplement indoor light, and succulent plants such as cacti can also be placed there. East windows are suitable for plants such as Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Codiaeum variegatum, Cycas revoluta, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Asparagus setaceus, Peperomia tetraphylla and Pilea notata.
Medium light is near north windows, or farther from strong-light windows, and its intensity is only about 10% of direct light, so only plants such as ferns, Pilea notata and Rohdea japonica can be placed there.
Weak light: the four corners of a room, as well as along walls about 6.5 cm from the light source, have weak light, only 3%-5% of direct light. Shade-tolerant plants such as Philodendron and Rhapis humilis are suitable there.
2. Artificial lighting: indoor natural light is insufficient to maintain plant growth, so artificial lighting must be installed to supplement it. Commonly used are incandescent lamps and fluorescent lamps. Their advantages and disadvantages are as follows: the former comes in many shapes and can be designed as spotlights with high light intensity. Its advantages are concentrated, compact light source, low installation cost, small size, many types and more red light. Its disadvantages are low energy efficiency, light intensity often insufficient to meet the requirements of flowering plants, high temperature, short life, and uneven light distribution. Therefore, when used in residential environments, it should be mixed with natural light or fluorescent lamps with blue light, and care should be taken that the distance from plants is not too close so as to avoid scorching. Fluorescent lamps are the best artificial lighting. Their advantages are high energy efficiency, less heat output than incandescent lamps, long life, uniform light distribution, many light colors and relatively high blue light, which is beneficial to the growth of foliage plants. Their disadvantages are higher installation cost, inability to concentrate light intensity, and the fact that the middle part of the tube is more efficient than the two ends and sunlight is low. In addition, mercury lamps are often used in commercial environments with high ceilings, but the cost is very high.
II. Temperature
Most plants used for indoor landscaping originate in the tropics and subtropics, so their effective growth temperature is 18-24°C, and nighttime temperatures above 10°C are preferable. Sudden temperature changes should be avoided most of all. Excessively high temperature can cause excessive water loss and wilting; excessively low nighttime temperature can also damage plants. Therefore, thermostats are often installed to add energy when nighttime temperatures drop. Opening and closing skylights can control air circulation and regulate indoor temperature and humidity.
III. Humidity
If indoor air relative humidity is too low, it is unfavorable for plant growth; if too high, people feel uncomfortable. Generally, controlling it at 40-60% is beneficial to both. During indoor landscaping, installing pools, cascades and waterfalls, fountains and so on helps increase air humidity. If such equipment is absent, increasing misting and moistening the ground around plants and using double potting also help increase air humidity.
IV. Ventilation
Poor indoor air circulation often leads to poor plant growth and can even cause leaf withering, leaf rot and the breeding of pests and diseases, so it must be regulated by opening windows. In addition, air conditioning systems and hot and cold air outlets can be used for regulation.
Section 2. Selection of indoor plants
In recent decades, indoor greening has developed rapidly, reflected not only in an increase in plant species but also in the ever higher artistic quality of planting arrangements and standards of maintenance. Indoor plants are mainly foliage types, with a small number of flowering and fruiting types interspersed. Examples are listed below:
I. Climbing and hanging plants
Hedera spp., Scindapsus aureus, Ficus pumila, Sedum morganianum, Ceropegia woodii, Chlorophytum capense, Chlorophytum capense var. marginata, Zebrina pendula, Commelina communis, Gynura aurantiaca, Hoya carnosa, Hoya bella, Philodendron oxycardium, Philodendron scandens, Philodendron panduraeforme, Philodendron andreanum, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum cv. White Butterfly, Cissus antarctica, Cissus repens, Cissus discolor, Cissus striata, Cissus rhombifolia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Monstera deliciosa, Sedum sarmentosum.
II. Foliage plants
Alocasia macrorrhiza, Cyperus alternifolius, Aspidistra elatior, Sansevieria trifasciata, Sansevieria trifasciata cv. Laurentii, Sansevieria cylindrica, Sansevieria hahnii, Sansevieria thyrsiflora, Commelina communis, Pilea notata, Pilea cadierei, Pilea pumila, Pilea muscosa, Asparagus plumosus, Asparagus plumosus var. nanus, Asparagus sprengeri, Sedum lineare, Saxifraga stolonifera, Calathea insignis, Calathea zebrina, Calathea ornata, Calathea leopardina, Calathea makoyana, Calathea warscewiczii, Maranta arundinacea, Maranta bicolor, Maranta leuconeura, Phrynium placentarium, Anthurium andraeanum, Anthurium variabile, Fittonia arundinacea, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Tradescantia fluminensis, Mimosa pudica, Pteris cretica, Platycerium bifurcatum, Neottopteris nidus, Asplenium bulbiferum, Adiantum capillus-veneris, Nephrolepis exaltata var. Bostoniensis, Nephrolepis auriculata, Polystichum acrostichoides, Liriope spp., Cordyline australis, Cordyline fruticosa, Cordyline stricta, Cordyline terminalis, Cordyline terminalis var. bella, Dracaena draco, Dracaena fragrans, Dracaena fragrans cv. Massangeana, Dracaena deremensis, Dracaena godseffiana, Dracaena marginata, Dracaena sanderiana, Aechmea fasciata, Neoregelia carolinae, Ananas comosus, Ananas comosus var. variegata, Billbergia pyramidalis, Billbergia nutans, Cryptanthus acaulis, Dieffenbachia picta, Aglaonema modestum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Excoecaria bicolor, Dizygotheca elegantissima, Fatsia japonica, Schefflera actinophylla, Araucaria heterophylla, Cycas revoluta, Cycas pectinata, Cycas rumphii, Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina, Ficus lyrata, Codiaeum variegatum, Chamaedorea elegans, Howea forsteriana, Areca triandra, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Phoenix roebelenii, Pinanga discolor, Rhapis humilis, Rhapis excelsa, Licuala fortunei, Caryota mitis, Caladium bicolor, Peperomia caperata, Peperomia hederifolia, Peperomia magnoliaefolia, Peperomia obtusifolia, Peperomia tetraphylla, Calanthe spp., Begonia spp., Plectranthus spp.
III. Fragrant, flowering and fruiting plants
Gardenia jasminoides, Osmanthus fragrans, Sinningia speciosa, Cymbidium goeringii, Convallaria majalis, Michelia figo, Aglaia odorata, Magnolia coco, Hosta plantaginea, Narcissus tazetta var. chinensis, Chloranthus spicatus, Murraya paniculata, Clivia miniata, Arisaema scherzerianum, Primula malacoides, Bauhinia purpurea, Saintpaulia ionantha, Kalanchoe laciniata, Rhododendron spp., Camellia japonica, Hydrangea macrophylla, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Allamanda neriifolia, Aphelandra squarrosa, Hoya carnosa, Begonia semperflorens, Ardisia crenata, Ardisia japonica, Ilex cornuta, Nandina domestica, Skimmia japonica.
Section 3. Landscape design of indoor garden plants
The design of indoor plant landscapes must first be subordinate to the nature and purpose of the indoor space, and then, according to its scale, shape, color and texture, make full use of walls, ceilings and floors to select plant materials and carry out conception and design, so as to achieve the purpose of organizing space and improving and heightening the atmosphere of the space.
I. Organizing space
Through plant arrangement, spaces of different sizes can be made to highlight the theme of that space, and plants can be used to separate, define and guide movement through the space.
(1) Organizing strolling and viewing
In recent years, many large and medium-sized public buildings have opened up tall, spacious "shared spaces" on the ground floor or between floors, with a certain amount of natural light and a certain degree of temperature and humidity control, used to arrange large indoor plant landscapes, supplemented by rockeries, pools, waterfalls, small bridges and winding paths, forming an indoor strolling and viewing center. The White Swan Hotel in Guangzhou fully took into account tourism characteristics and adopted China's traditional freehand natural landscape garden style, using the technique of presenting the large within the small, building an artificial rockery against the wall in the ground-floor lobby, with a pavilion at the top and a waterfall pouring straight down from the rock face. In addition to planting various shade- and moisture-loving ferns, Liriope and Monstera deliciosa on the rock face, three large characters, "Hometown Water", were also carved according to the homesickness of overseas Chinese tourists. Below the waterfall is a connected winding pool with fish in it and a bridge over it, guiding visitors to enjoy the scenery of the Pearl River. Along the pool are planted Cyperus alternifolius, Alpinia zerumbet and Rhapis, with Neottopteris nidus suspended overhead. The beautiful garden landscape and the thematic inscription make visitors linger and forget to leave.
There are many supermarkets in Western European countries, and their indoor greening designs are very successful. They have even built all-climate, indoor commercial streets that have become multifunctional shopping centers. To increase turnover, they all attach great importance to the design of plant landscapes, making customers feel as if they were in an open-air shopping mall. There are not only hanging plants such as Scindapsus aureus and ivy, but also large trees like Ficus benjamina, seasonal flowers and various foliage plants. Japanese women are good at flower arranging, and supermarkets and large department stores often hold flower arrangement exhibitions to attract female customers to visit and shop. Flower counters are also often set up, both doing business and beautifying the commercial environment. On the ground floor or between floors, large tree platforms are often set up, with broad surrounding edges for customers to sit and rest briefly. There are even tables and chairs set up under tall Ficus benjamina for dining and resting.
To make the environment more beautiful and natural, large indoor swimming pools place huge real pebbles by the pool, plant large trees and palms such as coconut along the walls, and paint desert and tropical scenery on the walls, mixing the real and the fake and letting the fake surpass the real, so that swimmers feel as if they are swimming freely in tropical rivers and lakes. To make the plants grow vigorously, roofs are often made of light-transmitting fiberglass or glass.
Some office buildings for leased commercial office use, in order to increase the success rate of negotiations between Party A and Party B and to create a quiet, beautiful office environment, pay even more attention to indoor plant landscapes. When the building is designed, space is already reserved for plant landscapes. For example, in a certain office building in the UK, offices are arranged around the perimeter of the building, while the center of the building is left open for gardens between floors and on the ground floor, and the elevators face the garden through acrylic glass, so passengers can keep viewing the scenery as the elevator goes up and down. The offices face each floor's garden through floor-to-ceiling glass walls. Therefore, although negotiations and transactions take place indoors, it feels as if one were in a natural environment; the atmosphere is harmonious and pleasant, and from a psychological analysis, this increases the success rate of transactions.
The garden landscapes in exhibition greenhouses in some European and American countries are also praiseworthy. The indoor microtopography undulates, with pools, waterfalls, rocks, paths and small bridges, and plants are planted in the ground rather than in pots. Especially in certain tropical greenhouses, the interior is dug down 1.5-2 m deep, and shade- and moisture-loving plants of tropical ravines are planted there, which at the same time is equivalent to increasing the height of the greenhouse; on the walls, water-worn stones are attached and ferns are planted. The indoor plant arrangement makes full use of the epiphytic and parasitic landscapes of tropical rainforests, with not only lush foliage plants but also many brilliantly colored Orchidaceae, Bromeliaceae and numerous colorful-leafed plants. The cactus exhibition greenhouse of the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh in the UK is also extremely interesting. The interior is arranged according to ecological environment, and around the living stones many small pebbles of very similar color and shape are spread out, and visitors crouch down with great interest to distinguish the real from the fake. Tall six-ribbed columnar cacti, cacti and various succulents rise one after another, and most of the flowers are extremely brilliant and peculiar.
In a cafe beside Heathrow Airport in London, UK, palm plants and large trees such as Ficus benjamina are used to create a tropical landscape, and bark-covered pine logs are used to make small bridges, railings and a small pavilion. When customers drink coffee, it is as if they were in the natural environment of a tropical jungle, and they feel very relaxed and happy.
(2) Separation and definition
In certain environments requiring privacy, such as for conversation, reading or enjoying solitude, plants can be used to separate and define space, forming a kind of local small environment. In certain commercial streets, and even in the songbird houses of zoos, plants are also used for separation. Separation: methods such as flower walls, flower beds, barrel planting and pot planting can be used to draw boundaries and divide spaces that are somewhat transparent yet slightly concealed. The effect should be as if separated yet not separated, blending into one another. But when arranging, the visual height when walking and sitting must be taken into account.
Definition: flower platforms, trees, pools and piled rocks can all become the core of a local space, forming a relative space for people to rest and stop to appreciate. At the bottom of the elevator in the Stilling supermarket in the UK there is a large semicircular fish pool with koi swimming in it, and the edge of the pool is planted with various foliage plants, attracting many children and customers to stop and admire by the pool. Nearby, a space with a completely different function is separated off, where tables and chairs are set under several tall Ficus benjamina for customers to rest and eat, creating a quiet place within the bustling commercial environment. These two adjacent spaces, through the organization of space by plants, do not interfere with each other.
(3) Revealing and guiding
In some public entertainment venues with flexible and complex architectural spaces, plant landscape design can play a role in organizing routes and guiding movement. The main entrances and exits can be guided by using highly ornamental or larger plants to attract people's attention, and plants can also be used as barriers to prevent wrong directions, so that people unconsciously follow the route arranged by the plants.
II. Improving the sense of space
Indoor plant landscape design mainly creates a beautiful visual image, and through people's physiological and psychological responses such as smell, hearing and touch, they can also perceive the perfection of the space.
(1) Connection and penetration
The plant landscape at building entrances and foyers can play a role in the natural transition and extension for people moving from the external space into the building's internal space, giving an uninterrupted sense of indoor-outdoor dynamics. In this way the effect of connection is achieved. Large spaces such as indoor restaurants and living rooms also often let the external plant landscape penetrate in through floor-to-ceiling glass windows, serving as an indoor reference and expanding the sense of indoor space, bringing a scene of vitality to the dull indoor space. Many large hotels in Japan and Europe and America, as well as the Fragrant Hills Hotel in Beijing, China, all adopt this method.
Plant landscapes can not only allow indoor and outdoor spaces to penetrate each other, but also help them connect and merge into one. For example, the Longbai Hotel in Shanghai uses a body of pool water to connect three spaces, indoor and outdoor, into one. In the front foyer part, the pool water is only exposed in a very small portion, while most of it is the water body with natural light in the middle; in the pool, planting beds built of natural rocks are arranged, planted with ornamental plants such as Jasminum nudiflorum, Acorus and water iris; the very large rear part of the water body is outdoors. One water body connects three spaces, and the middle space is divided by two glass walls, so the effects of penetration and connection are both excellent.
(2) Enrichment and embellishment
The indoor visual center is also the focal point with the greatest ornamental value, usually with plants as the main body, attracting visitors' gaze with their brilliant colors and graceful postures. In addition to living plants, large arrangements of fresh cut flowers or dried flowers can also be used. Sometimes a group of plants is arranged into a plant community, either a flower platform or a flower bed. There are also larger visual centers using plants, water and stones, and further enhancing the variation with the effect of light and shadow to form a landscape with sound and color. Walls are also often used to create visual centers. The simplest way is to place a large, beautiful potted plant or bonsai in front of the wall. Some also open a planting bed in front of the wall and plant ornamental plants there, or intentionally recess the gable wall into a niche shape and plant Bambusa multiplex, Bambusa vulgaris var. vittata or other plants in front, just like a mural. Some also attach rock bonsai and potted plants to the wall.
(3) Foil and contrast
Indoor plant landscapes must, in both color and volume, have some connection with furniture and furnishings, be coordinated, and also provide foil and contrast. Suzhou gardens often frame outdoor plants as scenery with window lattice and view them from indoors; in order to add interest, two pictures, either landscapes or plants, are hung on both sides of the indoor window frame, contrasting with the scene of living plants outside the window and enhancing each other's charm. In the severe winter weather of the north, when it is snowy white outside and warm inside, ornamental plants are then arranged on windowsills, in corners, on tabletops and on top of furniture, making the interior seem full of spring vitality, with strong contrast. Some miniature potted plants, such as miniature roses and miniature bonsai, are placed on desks and tables to set off the owner's elegance.
(4) Screening and controlling sightlines
Certain unsightly local features indoors, such as the sides of furniture, heating pipes unused in summer, fireplaces and corners, can all be screened with plants.
III. Heightening the atmosphere
Different indoor spaces have different uses, and the reasonable design of plant landscapes can give people different feelings. Examples are given below:
(1) Entrance
The entrances and foyers of public buildings are places people must pass through, with short stays and heavy traffic. The plant landscape should have a concise and clear welcoming atmosphere. Larger potted plants with upright postures and leaves growing straight up, which do not block people's sightlines when entering and leaving, can be selected, such as palms, coconut, Rhapis, Cycas revoluta and Araucaria heterophylla. Brightly colored, lively potted flowers can also be used, and the containers should be sturdy and simple, commensurate with the scale of the entrance. On prominent porches, climbing flowering plants such as Rosa banksiae and Campsis grandiflora can be planted along the columns. The various indoor entrances are generally dimmer and the space narrower, so slender shade-tolerant plants such as Rhapis and Cyperus alternifolius are suitable, giving people a feeling of lively and bright lines.
(2) Living room
This is a place for receiving guests or gathering with family, emphasizing a soft and modest environmental atmosphere. When arranging plants, one should strive for simplicity, beauty and generosity, and avoid complexity. Colors should be bright; dimness will affect guests' mood. In the corners of the living room and beside the sofa, large foliage plants should be placed, such as Araucaria heterophylla, Ficus benjamina, Monstera deliciosa and palm plants. Flower stands can also be used to arrange potted flowers, either hanging or growing straight up, such as Scindapsus aureus, Chlorophytum comosum, Begonia rex and Begonia semperflorens, making a corner of the living room varied and full of vitality. On corner cabinets and tea tables, small pots of orchids, Coleus, Hoya carnosa, Rohdea japonica, Cyperus alternifolius and Cyclamen can be placed, or flower arrangements can be added. On top of cabinets and on walls, hanging plants can be added to enrich the indoor decorative spatial picture, giving a greater sense of three dimensions without occupying the living room's floor area, commonly using Zebrina pendula, Cissus species, Platycerium, ivy and Scindapsus aureus. If appropriately matched with calligraphy, paintings or murals, the environment becomes even more elegant.
(3) Bedroom
The bedroom is for rest and sleep and should have an atmosphere that makes people feel relaxed and able to release tension, though this may differ for people of different temperaments. For those who like tranquility, only a few foliage plants are needed, with light and slender forms, such as Chlorophytum comosum, Asparagus setaceus, Boston fern and Howea forsteriana. When choosing seasonal flowers, the flower colors should not be too bright; African violets and the like can be chosen. In corners, Dracaena fragrans and Chamaedorea elegans can be placed. For those who are lively and cheerful and full of youthful vitality, in addition to foliage plants, brightly colored potted flowers such as Anthurium, Pelargonium and Cyclamen can be added, but large or strongly fragrant plants should not be chosen. Children's bedrooms require special attention to safety. Small foliage plants should predominate, and according to children's strong curiosity, some interesting plants can be chosen, such as pansies, Calceolaria, Codiaeum variegatum, pitcher plants and Mimosa pudica, paired with containers featuring certain animal shapes, which both helps inspire children's thinking ability and adds a joyful atmosphere to the environment.
(4) Study
As a study for reading and writing, it should create a quiet and elegant atmosphere to facilitate concentrated study and research. The indoor arrangement should be simple and generous, and foliage plants such as palms are better. On bookshelves, trailing plants can be placed, and on the desk, small foliage plants can be placed, with bamboo containers added outside, greatly enhancing the elegant atmosphere of the study. Phoenix-tail bamboo and the like can be chosen.
(5) Staircase
Every building has a staircase, which often forms a dark, uncomfortable dead corner. Planting plants can both screen the dead corner and add a beautifying atmosphere. Some large hotels and restaurants attach great importance to plant arrangement on staircases in order to improve environmental quality. On wider staircases, place a pot of flowers or foliage plants every few steps. On wide corner platforms, larger plants can be arranged, such as Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena and Rhapis. On handrails, climbing plants such as ivy, Ficus pumila, Philodendron and Cissus rhombifolia can also be used, letting them twine freely and greatly increasing the natural atmosphere of the surrounding environment.
Section 4. Maintenance and management of indoor plants
Because of the particularity of indoor environmental conditions, maintenance and management are correspondingly more unique.
I. "Light adaptation" of indoor plants
Indoor light levels are low, and when plants are suddenly moved from high light to low light conditions, they often cannot adapt, which leads to their death. Therefore, it is best to carry out a period of "light acclimation" before moving them indoors. Place them under light slightly lower than their original growing conditions, but higher than the future indoor growing environment. During this period, because of the low light, the plant suffers physiological stress, which causes a decrease in photosynthetic rate, and it uses up stored substances within its body. At the same time, it strives to increase chlorophyll content, adjust the arrangement of chloroplasts, lower the respiration rate, and make other changes to improve its utilization of low light. If acclimation goes smoothly, chlorophyll increases and the chloroplasts basically rearrange themselves. Quite a few old leaves may drop, and some new leaves may be produced, and the plant survives. Some shade-loving foliage plants, such as those kept under shaded conditions from the start of propagation through the completion of growth, have the best form of light acclimation; the plants obtained have a low light compensation point, can effectively use the low light indoors, and have a long lifespan. Some shade-tolerant woody plants, such as the weeping fig (Ficus benjamina), need to be grown under full sun to obtain a sturdy trunk. However, before being moved indoors, they must first be acclimated in a place with lower light than before, and after being moved to the indoor environment, they will still undergo further deepening of acclimation, which is not considered complete until every leaf has been produced under the new growing environment conditions. The degree of a plant's adaptation to low light conditions is related to the length of time and the plant's own size and age, and is also affected by external factors such as fertilization and temperature. It usually takes 6 weeks to 6 months, or even longer. A large weeping fig needs at least 3 months, while small potted plants need much less time. Proper nutrition is very important for helping plants adapt to a low-light environment. Generally, when a plant is in the light acclimation stage, the amount of fertilizer applied should be reduced. A rise in temperature will cause an increase in the respiration rate and the light compensation point; therefore, before moving plants indoors, a low-temperature cultivation environment is more ideal for light acclimation.
Although some plants do not require much light, because the light in their growing environment is too low they grow poorly, and they need to be put back under high light at the appropriate time to restore their vigor. Since the leaves produced by the plant under low light have already adapted to the low-light environment, if the light is suddenly too strong, the leaves will be injured, wither, and suffer serious damage. Therefore, it is best to move them to a light intensity less than 5-10 times higher than their original growing environment for adaptive growth.
2. Cultivation Containers
Apart from those planted directly in the ground, the vast majority of the plant materials used for indoor greening are planted in containers of various kinds, such as pots, bowls, boxes, cases, baskets, and troughs. Because the containers differ in shape, color, and texture, they often become part of the art of indoor furnishing.
A container must first satisfy the plant's growth requirements: it must have enough volume to accommodate the normal growth and development of the root system, have good air permeability and drainage, and be sturdy and durable. Fixed containers require the drainage system to be arranged during the building construction period. Movable containers are often placed on a saucer to avoid soiling the indoor floor.
The container's shape, volume, color, and texture should be in harmony with the plants being grown, and should not contrast too strongly or overshadow the main subject. At the same time, consideration should be given to harmony with the wall, floor, furniture, ceiling, and other decorative furnishings.
Container materials include clay, wood, rattan, bamboo, ceramic, stone, brick, cement, plastic, fiberglass, and metal, among others. Clay containers not only have good water retention and air permeability, but their appearance is simple and plain, and they easily match plants. However, they are unsuitable in places with a strong decorative atmosphere, and need to be placed inside another container made of other materials. Containers made of natural materials such as wood, rattan, and bamboo use common materials, have a rustic and natural charm, and are easy to arrange flexibly, but their sturdiness and durability are rather poor. Ceramic containers come in many styles, with attractive colors and strong decorative appeal, and are still widely used at present, but they are heavy and easily broken. The surfaces of containers made of stone, brick, concrete, and the like have a hard, rough texture, and different forms of construction will produce interesting changes in texture; because they are heavy, they are often considered together with building components in design and made into fixed containers, and their shapes should be conceived in a unified way with the indoor plan and spatial composition, for example by combining them with walls, columns, steps, railings, partitions, seats, and sculptures. Plastic and fiberglass containers are lightweight, come in many colors and styles, and can also imitate various textures, but their air permeability is poor. Metal containers are smooth, bright, highly decorative, and simple in outline; they are mostly placed outside planting pots and are suitable for spaces with a strong modern feel.
3. Cultivation Methods
(1) Soil Culture
Mainly use garden soil, peat soil, leaf mold, sand, and the like mixed into a light, fertile potting soil. In Hong Kong, China, the formula for making high-quality potting soil is clay: peat soil: sand: vermiculite = 1:2:1:1. If one plant is grown per pot, it is easy to manage. If multiple plants are grown in one large planting pot to form a combined planting, management is more complicated, but the ornamental effect is greatly improved. For combined planting, plant species with relatively small differences in their requirements for light, temperature, water, and humidity should be chosen and planted together, with varying heights and each displaying its own posture; a water pipe can also be inserted among them, along with a few seasonal flowers. For example, the false aralia (Dizygotheca elegantissima), wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina), purple-leaved begonia (Begonia rex), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), silver-edged ivy (Hedera helix), creeping philodendron (Philodendron scandens), and spotted dumb cane (Dieffenbachia maculata) can be planted together.
(2) Substrate Culture and Hydroponics
Although potting with soil as the substrate has a long history, because of poor hygiene it is no longer quite suitable as an indoor cultivation method, and is especially unsuitable for use in hospital wards, lest certain fungi in the soil affect patients' health. However, substrate culture and hydroponics can overcome this shortcoming. Materials used as substrate include ceramic pellets, perlite, vermiculite, pumice, sawdust, peanut shells, peat, sand, and the like. Commonly used ratios are: peat: perlite: sand = 2:2:1; peat: pumice: sand = 2:2:1; peat: sand = 1:1; peat: sand = 3:1, and so on. After adding nutrient solution, they can provide the plant with oxygen, water, and nutrients, and also serve to fix and support the root system. Plants suitable for soilless cultivation commonly include the dwarf umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), false aralia (x Fatshedera lizei), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), dracaena species, weeping fig (Ficus benjamina), rubber plant (Ficus elastica), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), maidenhair fern (Adiantum), Boston fern (Nephrolepis), bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), ti plant (Cordyline fruticosa), taro (Alocasia), English ivy (Hedera helix), and false aralia (Dizygotheca elegantissima), among others.
(3) Epiphytic Cultivation In tropical regions, especially in rainforests, there are many epiphytes; they do not need soil and often grow attached to other plants or rotting wood. They use the plant fibers on the host plant or the dead roots, leaves, and other plant parts at their own base as the epiphytic substrate. Epiphytic plant displays are very beautiful and are often the main cultivation method for key displays in exhibition greenhouses. As supports for epiphytic cultivation, tree ferns, rotting wood, palm trunks, wooden boards, and even rocks and baskets can be used, and the epiphytic medium can be fern roots, water moss, wood shavings, bark, the leaf sheath fibers of coconut or palm, coconut coir, and the like. The plant roots are wrapped in the medium, then tied and attached to the support. In routine management, attention should be paid to spraying water to raise the air humidity. Common plants for epiphytic cultivation include orchids, bromeliads, and among ferns, the maidenhair fern (Adiantum), polypody (Polypodium), staghorn fern (Platycerium), davallia (Davallia), Boston fern (Nephrolepis), and bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), among others.
(4) Bottle Cultivation
Small plants that require high temperature and high humidity can use this cultivation method. Using colorless transparent wide-mouthed glass vessels, choose short, slow-growing plants such as saxifrage (Saxifraga), peperomia (Peperomia), nerve plant (Fittonia), clearweed (Pilea), spider plant (Chlorophytum), and cacti, and plant them in the bottle; with proper arrangement, they are quite interesting. Bottle-grown plants can be placed on a desk or hung up.
4. Watering, Fertilizing, and Cleaning
Because indoor plants receive low light and their physiological activity is relatively slow, the amount of watering is greatly lower than for outdoor plants. Therefore, it is better to water less than to overwater. Generally, water once every 3-7 days, and water appropriately more during the spring and summer growing seasons. At present, indoor cultivation in many countries uses substrate culture and hydroponics, and the containers are all equipped with semi-automatic irrigation systems, with the nutrients the plants need also obtained from liquid fertilizer. The lower layer of the container is provided with a water tank, with a water injection hole on one side and a water level indicator on the other showing the highest and lowest water levels. The substrate filled into the container uses capillary action or the seepage action of a gauze strip to absorb the water and liquid fertilizer from the bottom of the container to the plant's roots.
Usually, before fertilizing indoor plants, water first to make the potting soil moist, then apply liquid fertilizer. Foliage plants and plants that bloom in summer are fertilized in summer and early autumn; plants that bloom in winter are fertilized in late autumn and spring.
Wiping large leaves regularly and carefully with warm water makes the leaf surface more glossy and beautiful, and after dust is removed the leaf surface can also make more use of carbon dioxide. For indoor plants with small leaves, regular spraying with water has the same effect.