Zhenjiang City Holds Community Retired Cadres Flower and Bonsai Art Exhibition

Jinshan Net News To enliven the cultural and recreational atmosphere for veteran Party members and retired cadres, and to enrich the retired life of veteran comrades, the Municipal Supply and Marketing Cooperative and the Taohuawu Community of Jiankang Road Subdistrict recently jointly held the "Healthy Dream Realization Tour Event Eight - Retired Cadres Flower and Bonsai Art Exhibition Celebrating the 94th Anniversary of the Founding of the Party." Through the development of the activity, retired cadres and residents gained more space to display their talents, which is a win-win move for both the innovative work of the Municipal Supply and Marketing Cooperative's retired cadres and the community Party building work.

The exhibition featured nearly 50 pots of flowers and bonsai, with 24 varieties, all works made by the retired cadres themselves. The bonsai display attracted many community residents to come and watch, and some residents, upon seeing them, became very interested and could not resist bringing their own bonsai from home to join the exhibition.

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Ten Questions on Hydroponic Flower Techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages do they have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need to have air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas must be adopted. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including golden
money tree (Pachira aquatica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Peperomia obtusifolia, Sun God (Dracaena), Calathea, Little Angel (Aglaonema), Marianne (Dieffenbachia), Sansevieria, golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid (Anoectochilus), snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), etc. Hydroponic flowers can go for long periods without watering or fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, etc. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they will precipitate with each other and cause the nutrients to become ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solution currently sold on the market is only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth condition of the flower's root system and should not be too much. Generally, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be left exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial to the healthy growth of the root system. Do not add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either; if it is too little, the nutrient solution will need to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer of about 5-10 cm deep is sufficient.

5. Do hydroponic flowers at home need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight, but since hydroponic flowers placed at home are usually in an environment with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is sufficient.

6. Do hydroponic flowers need a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower requires a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to select different nutrient solutions according to different major categories; of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, indoor plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-cultivated flowers and wash the root system, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the fish kept together with flowers are small species, and these fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, they are instead prone to dying from overeating, and adding feed also easily makes the nutrient solution cloudy and reduces the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, how should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the speed of water consumption by the plant. If the weather is dry and the plant is relatively large, the nutrient solution generally needs to be replenished about every 15-20 days, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at that time is sufficient. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; it is enough to add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
Experiences on Home Hydroponic Flowers

As an eco-friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-cultivated flowers: (1) Water replaces soil, odorless and clean. (2) No need to repot or loosen soil, which can reduce the labor of growing flowers. (3) Lightweight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. (4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor furnishings. (5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Dieffenbachia, Dieffenbachia picta, Monstera deliciosa, Alocasia, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant, Tradescantia zebrina, coleus, Dracaena fragrans, miniature coconut palm, hibiscus, fuchsia, etc. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and other such flowering plants also have good results when grown hydroponically. Boston fern, pot marigold, petunia, red-back eurya, and others have a low survival rate as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials (1) Container. Any beautiful water-holding container can be used. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (cut off the narrow neck), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, etc. The opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and material of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect it before use. (2) Bedding material. The bedding material is often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container and mainly serves to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with elegant appearance and various shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically all year round. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, etc. are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. (1) Root washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and remove the soil, wash the soil from the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off decayed and aged root strips; if the fibrous roots are dense, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the root system in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes (both to sterilize and disinfect, and to promote new root development), after which hydroponic cultivation can be carried out. This method is mostly used for relatively large plants and flowers that are difficult to root. (2) Water cutting method. Select robust, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponic cultivation. The cut is usually made two or three millimeters below a stem node, and the cut edge should be smoothed with a sharp knife (wiped clean and disinfected with white liquor in advance), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changes. (1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-settling, and contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily settles, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. (2) Water changes. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponic cultivation, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. The change in water quality is directly related to the temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water about once every 15-20 days. Each time the water is changed, the mucus on the roots should be washed off, and aged roots and rotten roots should be cut away. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone; too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes the root system to lack water and affects growth.

6. Addition of hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will appear in flowers. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in combination with water changes. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: (1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions must be read carefully. (2) Various special nutrient solutions must be used only for their intended purpose, avoiding mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; simply changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as for pothos and Dieffenbachia picta.

Prevention and Control Techniques for Pests and Diseases of Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly disinfected vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and been converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc., and if these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor should large doses of fungicides be used for sterilization. Although these drugs can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shrunken and necrotic, or irregular round wet stains, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy, high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot likely, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the lower detached branch does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point nutrient solution cultivation can be used. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, and others can all use this method.

Complete Home Hydroponic Flower Manual

Four Methods to Obtain Hydroponic Plants

1. Remove flowers cultivated in organic substrates such as soil, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and convert them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings and insert them directly into static water; after rooting, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and urn plant; these small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that produce many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponic cultivation.

How to Prepare Hydroponic Nutrient Solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Select plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose a leak-proof cultivation container without a bottom hole that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flowers.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete mineral nutrients essential for the growth of flowers and plants. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 mL).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC < 0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel and pour in hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with a unique charm.

When preparing the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, drinking tap water can generally also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. Both have undergone strict treatment and are clean and hygienic, meeting the requirements of sterile (or low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens, and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used in tap water disinfection. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a relatively wide-mouthed bucket for several days, and stir it a few times with a wooden stick to remove chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing the water, 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) can be added to 10 kg of tap water and stirred evenly, which can also achieve a chlorine removal effect.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can facilitate the absorption of trace elements by the flowers, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, ensure normal growth, and keep the leaves green.

How to Carry Out Foliar Fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root hypoxia, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer liquid run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, begonia, bamboo begonia, calla lily, etc., during the bud stage, a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and are cold-intolerant flowers and plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and drooping and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, this phenomenon will also occur. Some flowers are relatively cold-resistant, such as English ivy, periwinkle, and Senecio, and grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, some flowers lose their luster, grow sluggishly, and have scorched brown spots on the leaf margins, showing a heat-intolerant dormant state, such as bamboo begonia, begonia, and coleus. At high temperatures above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics; of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a low-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain their leaf color and luster.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessel and replacing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the flower leaves. To prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display. When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase the humidity of the leaf surface and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, are adversely affected in their growth. Especially when people go to work and leave home during the day, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. In places where hydroponic flowers are placed, doors and windows should be opened at regular intervals to form air convection, allowing outside fresh air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner; this is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.

Prevention and Control of Pests and Diseases in Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly disinfected vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing them to suffer varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and been converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc., and if these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor should large doses of fungicides be used for sterilization. Although these drugs can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shrunken and necrotic, or irregular round wet stains, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy, high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot likely, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root hypoxia and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the lower detached branch does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point nutrient solution cultivation can be used. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, arrowhead plant, and others can all use this method.

How Many Hydroponic Flowers Is Appropriate to Display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to plant one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters of room area. By this standard, for a room of 50 square meters to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can both satisfy viewing and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.

How to Choose Hydroponic Flower Materials in Winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people because of their cleanliness, beauty, and easy care. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types not suitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will gradually die before long because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all relatively suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead plant, pothos, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, lucky bamboo, etc.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, being prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little cold protection include Monstera deliciosa, purple inch plant, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, miniature coconut palm, bamboo palm, etc.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-cultivated flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal in growth, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so careful identification is necessary when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright, vigorous branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to displaying the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of Hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it requires no extra care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaf surface in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaf surface, wipe it with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers have completely broken away from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-cultivated flowers, pollute our living environment because of pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are free from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to grow them. Not only can we appreciate the flowers and leaves, but we can also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their various beautiful forms, which is very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, technology easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated in planting baskets to produce water roots, nor does it need early-stage computer or electric field mutagenesis. It only needs very simple technical treatment, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit space, and increases the competitiveness of products in the market. At the same time, because production costs are relatively low, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the nutrient solution concentration and pH value, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow indoors at home hydroponically, but commonly seen shade and semi-shade flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically. Tested varieties currently number nearly more than 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and eco-friendly, can grow flowers and fish together

"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquitoes and insects are not likely to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-grown potted flowers at home, there will be an even more unexpected surprise. Practice has proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and eco-friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of Hydroponic Flower Types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions of water, oxygen, nutrients, light, temperature, etc. Water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in a timely manner, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to the relationship between the ecological habits and organizational structure of flowers, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have ventilating tissue in their bodies; the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the ventilating tissue to the root system for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air. Some flowers, although they do not have ventilating tissue or aerial roots that absorb oxygen, are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, if the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of some flowers for normal growth and development, then such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and must not cultivate blindly, so as to avoid failure in hydroponics.

Flower Types Suitable for Hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value. After soil-cultivated plants are washed with water, most of their original root systems can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers suitable for hydroponics include pothos, Dieffenbachia, Dieffenbachia picta, silver king, golden queen, clustered Philodendron, mini Monstera deliciosa, Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum, green emerald, Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', arrowhead plant, Alocasia, anthurium, emerald gem, etc.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple inch plant, purple-backed oyster plant, Lophatherum, Tradescantia zebrina, etc., all of which can root and grow rapidly when grown from water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, tiger aloe, Haworthia, spider plant, Cordyline, dragon tree, Dracaena, snake plant, agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged oyster plant, silver-edged lilyturf, etc.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium, Echeveria, silver jade, jade plant, Bryophyllum, etc.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics also include Aucuba, umbrella plant, coleus, purple violet, blue pine, bamboo begonia, beefsteak begonia, green emerald, clivia, lady's slipper orchid, croton, dusty miller, Senecio, leaf cactus, triangular bamboo, urn plant, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, star jasmine, dragon bone, Euphorbia, variegated periwinkle, red-back eurya, Senecio, English ivy, English ivy, bamboo palm, miniature coconut palm, etc.

When choosing hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, you should also pay attention to the following factors:

Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high requirements for overwintering temperature. For example, some species of Dieffenbachia and croton require an overwintering temperature above 15°C; pothos, arrowhead plant, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and dragon tree types also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter, this certainly will not be a problem, but for most families, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, due to the effects of low-temperature cold damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, have scorched leaf tips or margins, or develop new scorched spots on the leaves, and may even cause a large number of fallen leaves or partial death of branches and leaves, thus losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable mosquito-control conditions, attention must be paid to choosing flower types with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary homes include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as oyster plant, star jasmine, bamboo palm, agave, Aucuba, jade plant, sea onion, variegated lilyturf, etc., which can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera deliciosa, purple inch plant, Lophatherum, aloe, spider plant, silver jade, umbrella plant, purple violet, dusty miller, Chloranthus, Euphorbia, variegated periwinkle, English ivy, miniature coconut palm, etc., which can overwinter safely with a little protection during winter.

Of course, some flowers such as red emerald Philodendron, green emerald Philodendron, arrowhead plant, pothos, snake plant, croton, etc., although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

Shade Tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower types that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even semi-shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, croton, purple inch plant, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. need sufficient scattered light, but peace lily, green giant, Dieffenbachia, silver king, etc. all have very strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different light conditions in rooms differ, suitable flower types should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location to ensure the normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it will cause the branches and leaves of the plant to grow leggy, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, to lose greenness and lose their proper luster, and colored leaf stripes to fade, or even cause a large number of fallen leaves, thus seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Techniques for Growing Spider Plant in Water

Spider plant, with fresh green leaf color and orchid-like leaf shape, fresh and elegant, is a common household foliage flower loved by people. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. For a single-layer bottle, take a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle and plant the spider plant in it. For a double-layer bottle, take a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle as the lower layer, plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve, and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove the potted or field-grown spider plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves), keep robust leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle method, insert the prepared spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) into the bottle, secure the mouth of the bottle tightly with sponge and insert a plastic drinking straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, fill the bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and let the spider plant roots grow submerged in the water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on a plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle; place ceramic granules or stone grains (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and fill the lower bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution. After potting is complete, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week; when changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container clean, fill it with clean water and flower nutrient solution, then place the plastic sieve on top of the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Nutrient solution is added to the roots through adding water and changing water at the same time; for foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: The spider plant flowers half a year after potting. When flowering, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers wither, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote re-flowering.

The outstanding choice for static hydroponics

Plants of the Araceae family comprise 105 genera and more than 2500 species, originating in tropical Asia, arising in forest waters or swamps. Through a long history of evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in the Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, and others. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves hygrophytes, some have aerial roots, some readily produce adventitious roots, and some readily develop aerenchyma under stress conditions.
For terrestrial plants in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency, and the prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, one that has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically manifested as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed with aquatic genetic genes at the center. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive member of the Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or hygrophytic evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in the Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), first arising in aquatic environments. Pistia is found in freshwater waters of almost every continent of the Old and New Worlds; it is the most evolved monotypic genus in the Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, the Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation,” a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in the Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, phenomenally forming a “negation” of their aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another “negation,” which is the dialectical law of the “negation of the negation.” It shows that the two opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.
2. The Araceae belongs to the Arales, which contains only two families; the other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, which consists of floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that the Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward with aquatic genetic genes at the center, along an approximately spiral curve.
3. The relationship of the Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that the Arales evolved from the Liliales, and a few aquatic types in the Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that the Arales shares a common ancestor (primitive lily types) with the Arecales and the Dasypogonales, and can be traced further back to the Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that the Arales has close kinship with the Pandanales and the Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with the Liliales. From the above classification systems it can be inferred that the Arales has kinship correlations with the Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward with aquatic genetic genes at the center, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlations with the Liliales, Arecales, and others that contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons; for example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will deteriorate water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotting: first, smell the roots with the nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and discolored, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone with your hand; its epidermis is very easily torn off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off promptly. Generally, root rot rots gradually upward from the root tip; after pruning, continue until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles, jars, and cultivation management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene rigid foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight tidying, they can become hydroponic carriers of various sizes and shapes, which can both suit local conditions and make the best use of materials, and also green the surrounding environment, with quite a charming flavor of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Metal beverage cans, wide-mouth glass or plastic bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage cartons, etc., were originally used to hold liquids; as long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cups: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold-drink cup sized to fit about 1/3 into the mouth, as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a “#”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the root system can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, of the kind used for clothing interlining. Gently rinse the soil off the seedling to be hydroponically grown, or a purchased potted flower with soil, etc., without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap and thicken the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps left from making shoulder pads for jackets or cushions for sofas and chairs, etc.), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white), so that it can just be stuffed into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are at hand, floral foam can also be properly cut to serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed root system, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution level should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. By means of the capillary absorption of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system as nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid level and the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material, to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae, which would compete with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sun exposure, it is best to have sun-shading measures, or place it in a place where sunlight does not shine directly.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white rigid polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock protection, or corrugated cardboard boxes, wooden boxes, etc. with a certain strength can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film, to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmitting, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Top cover: The top cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a piece of polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the top cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is only necessary that the selected plastic cold-drink cup can be placed in it while exposing about 1/2 cup height. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. In addition, on the side of the top cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in normal times.

3. Planting cups: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a piece of polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm thick and 2.5 to 3 cm smaller on each of the four sides than the net inner area of the box, as the floating board. Regularly cut some small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness) on the floating board, or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric, for capillary absorption of the nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the capillary-absorbing cotton layer extends about 6 cm beyond each of the four sides of the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from the four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to absorb it by capillary action, thereby ensuring that a moist layer containing nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant's root system can extend freely on the floating board, contacting the air more directly. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate the nutrient solution or oxygenate it.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of first planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward by capillary action. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added, until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogen infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, until fully renewed.

The Requirements of Hydroponic Flowers for a Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

Foliage flowers mostly originate from warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from dampening furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do it, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle, so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase the humidity of the leaf surface and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers; the evaporated water can similarly increase the environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, are unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work and leave home during the day, the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains; in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need, nor more importantly fresh air, and the dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so the growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should open doors and windows regularly to form air convection, letting outside fresh air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry leaf tips on flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display need this work done even more.

The Light Requirements of Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaf surfaces in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless; such flowers can maintain their leaf color luster only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not exposed to strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism, so the orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the containers and changing the nutrient solution; after cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and below 0 degrees Celsius their tissues will become necrotic. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, the indoor temperature in winter is generally not lower than 5 degrees Celsius. If extreme low-temperature weather occurs for a few days, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most rooms have heating, safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be satisfied.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become fewer and fewer; at the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more. Therefore, hydroponic flowers need to have their nutrient solution replaced after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and also need the soil changed once a year for this same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water-change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can endow blooming cyclamen plants with multiple cultivation and application forms; as soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cultivation of cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to select a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare the container to be used for hydroponic cyclamen; thus, once the preparatory work is complete, you can begin to make a hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be knocked out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water; alternatively, the plant together with the substrate can be placed in a basin filled with water, and the substrate rinsed off in the water, then rinsed clean again with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, trying as much as possible to avoid damaging the cyclamen root system. The rinsed-clean cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of the water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make a hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessel and the combination of cyclamen plants. This all depends entirely on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method with exposed roots for Lipstick plant (Aeschynanthus)

Lipstick plant has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through trials of exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: 1) labor-saving; 2) hygienic; 3) few pests and diseases; 4) simple management; 5) long flowering period; 6) roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-cultivated lipstick plant, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest- or disease-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few attractive river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated lipstick plant seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the lipstick plant, injecting half a milliliter each time, and thereafter once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can flower. After the flowers wither, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can flower again.

There is a great difference between flower hydroponics and water culture

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people for being fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and convenient to combine. On the surface, water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have the same cultivation form, namely liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients; their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water for fixation, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, etc. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrient needs for their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (for lucky bamboo, change the water once every 7 to 10 days), to maintain sufficient oxygen content in the water and improve root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight to make them grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, on the other hand, have the plant roots fixed on the cover board or floating board of a flower pot, with the root system soaked in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of plants suitable for hydroponics are suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main varieties cultivated include clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazil wood, evergreen, clustered taro, Monstera, gem flower, Tradescantia zebrina, Bryophyllum, and other plants.

Northeastern University of China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed; the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the water-root genes of the plant are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants will become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches will be more tender and fresh than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare a good nutrient solution. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat the chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, taking care to control the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

A brief introduction to flower hydroponic technology

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods; several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: Characterized by the plant root system being fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air for dissolved oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: Nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution is placed in a plastic bag to cultivate plants; on this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag is changed to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film, white outside and black inside, wraps the plant, forming a dark inner space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for scaled production.

Aeroponics technique: After atomization, the nutrient solution is sprayed around the plant root system; the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponics technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used; the jar is wrapped around with black plastic film, or coated all over with black paint, or covered with a layer of black paper, to the degree that the inside of the bottle is light-proof. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, a layer of white paper should be wrapped around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Pour nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full; leave a gap for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water propagation to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just add water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing the solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change it once a week during the summer peak growth season, and once every 1 to 2 weeks during the non-growing season.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, aeration can be omitted for more than 1 month continuously.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should be added to the bottle frequently to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, it can be prepared yourself; the formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL of water, then make up to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

1. Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest-to-succeed method. Cut a part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will take root and sprout to grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, the aerial roots should be protected and inserted into the water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

2. Root-washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other substrate cultivation); remove the soil, wash the root system, and switch to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. Place the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and pour in tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and the vessel; after a week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and the water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

3. Tiller-bud stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple, and the survival rate is high. Select a relatively large tiller bud, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, and strip the tiller bud from the mother plant with your hand or a sharp blade (protecting the tiller bud's roots), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

4. Runner plantlet picking method: Some flowers grow runners during growth, and one to many small plantlets grow on the runners; most of the small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots. Spider plants and bromeliads both have this characteristic. Using this characteristic of the flowers, pick formed small plantlets for hydroponics, which is very convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera, clivia, pothos, Tillandsia, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulb flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, amaryllis, and gladiolus.

Strategy for the difficult points of summer care for hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficult points of hydroponic flowers getting through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers use non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added) to cultivate ornamental plants. At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/L, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism is vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, which may cause root rot, withered branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire flower. Therefore, in summer, besides preventing extreme heat and high temperature, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring hydroponic flowers safely get through summer.

Water-cultured silver-edge grass

2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized as chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several effective and easy-to-operate methods.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest way to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and at most not more than 7 days. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to promote new roots.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed in it, the nutrient solution should be replaced immediately with new nutrient solution.

2. Vibration for oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times; after shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution and poor root development, the vibration oxygenation method is not suitable; the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/L, while in static water it is only 1 mg/L. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline; when working, the nutrient solution circulates and flows in the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar,” and their growth is obviously better than static hydroponics.

For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and changing the solution are generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the vessel

If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare outlet pipe of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put the sand head into the static hydroponic flower vessel to aerate (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen also has a good effect.

3. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers enjoyed for both foliage and blooms. Such as arrowhead vine, white jade evergreen, Spathiphyllum, anthurium, bromeliads, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are slightly shade-tolerant, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. “Hydroponics” only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, relatively cool, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not make it too shady, lest the flowers' photosynthesis be hindered, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaf texture become thin. This causes the leaves of flowers with color blocks and colored patterns to lose their luster.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast wind speed will damage the branches and leaves, ranging from curled leaves to scorched edges and withering in severe cases. It is also necessary to consider that the flower's temperature requirement is higher during the day than at night; if the air conditioner is turned off at night, and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner was on, it is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaves to increase environmental humidity, and place the flowers at a position farther from the air conditioner outlet; if the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

5. What should be done if hydroponic flowers have root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature will also rise, microorganism cultivation speeds up, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, making the dissolved concentration too high, can cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the Liliaceae plants cordyline, dragon tree (fine-leaf Dracaena), and five-color Dracaena.

For flowers with root rot, the following methods can restore their growth:

1. Remove all the rotten roots; if the stem has already been infected, also use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

2. Soak the pruned flower in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes for sterilization.

3. Take out the soaked flower and rinse it in running water.

4. Place the washed flower back into the original vessel and cultivate it in clean water (the vessel should be washed clean).

5. Change the water once every 1-2 days, changing only clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water quality is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can emerge.

⑥ Newly sprouted roots should still be grown in clean water; once the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

VI. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growth in nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when temperatures are high, containers are highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the nutrient solution is left unchanged for too long, algae will proliferate in large amounts. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions contaminate the solution, lowering the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, promptly pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, Chinese scientists are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, called a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, putting a small amount of "algae-eating insects" into the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chance of algae growth.

VII. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a cultivation method belonging to soilless cultivation. The flower roots are anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers need different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six, or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers of different varieties are cultivated at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a matching bottle of plant nutrient solution for each flower. For simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions usually contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macronutrients and micronutrients), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, and the scope of application is wide, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages. They are non-toxic and harmless, and the pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution cultivation or only clean water cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, for Spathiphyllum, pothos, mini Monstera, red ruby, and Philodendron, nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental quality. For coleus, begonia, and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass the summer safely.

When mixing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the ratio indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers germinated in hydroponic conditions has changed, being looser and with larger cells than in soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner and directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macronutrients is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

VIII. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, which is suitable for flower growth, and they adapt easily to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Select varieties that are more closely related to wetland plants. ② Select flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Syngonium, mini Monstera, red ruby Philodendron, green giant, pothos, and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their roots rarely rot. After 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off thoroughly. Rinse repeatedly to protect the roots from damage or minimize it, use a container with a larger capacity for cultivation, change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant shape is slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves are long lanceolate, dark green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as silver-edged dragon tree, is a compact plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes along the leaf edges.

Habits

Prefers high temperature and high humidity; the wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it can cause leaf scorch, so during the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface.

2: Suitable for sufficient scattered light; when light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as anzu hua and lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow from the leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and it must be kept above 10°C for wintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azalea and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality, but also greatly reduced heavy manual labor, and is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of substrate

Azalea roots are very fine and require a loose substrate to facilitate air permeability and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing, sterilize the substrate with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse repeatedly with clean water, and after drying, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used in pots.

2. Preparation of nutrient solution

Azalea has relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at about 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macronutrients: add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 L of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g of disodium edetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 L of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 mL of trace element mother solution to 1 L of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 L of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and air permeability but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, it is exactly the period of flower bud formation and leaf bud germination, and the fertilizer requirement is relatively large, so water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is large; besides watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also large, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and favor flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilizer amount can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the fertilizer amount, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote robust growth of flower buds. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azalea is weak, so fertilization is not suitable; just water appropriately according to the degree of dryness or moisture of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, jointed like bamboo, with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; in winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Select plants with large clumps and dense stems. First take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, try to cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant shape. Then repot them, water thoroughly, and place them in a semi-shaded, humid place. Spray water on the leaves frequently, and after they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal maintenance.

Sowing is done in autumn after the seeds mature, sowing them in pots immediately after collection, then moving them into a greenhouse in winter; they sprout in the spring of the following year.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Tolerant of shade, but when light is too weak it is prone to yellow leaves; when ventilation is poor, it breeds parasites.

2: During the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Potted root-washing is suitable. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for purple velvet plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick and many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for the fine purple-red hairs densely covering the stems and leaves like velvet. Purple velvet plant is bright, beautiful, and elegant in color, and is an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes sufficient sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shady, the plant will fade and turn green. The wintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting, place them in a shaded and humid place; they can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them promptly to promote lateral bud germination.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water; water roots can grow in more than 10 days. But at high temperatures in summer, roots rot easily.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches grow to an appropriate height, pinch them promptly to promote new shoot germination.

Hydroponic method for parlor palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short plant. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum wintering temperature in winter is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will become withered and yellow, but when too shady, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces ornamental value. During cultivation, small plants can be grown below.

Obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing in water, new roots can grow in a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus

We know that cactus is favored by people for its unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cactus uses traditional cultivation methods, it has problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now cactus cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, we should select a cactus with a sturdy body. The key is to select a plant whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus grafted and cultivated with three-angled sword cactus is easier to hydroponically cultivate.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots under the body, requiring the cut to be flat. Then rinse off the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just touching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water tank 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part), preparing a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and using a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden ball cactus, the mouth part cut from a waste purified water bottle can be used upside down; note: the bottle mouth should be cut off so that the roots of the golden ball cactus can be exposed through the cut bottle mouth, and then placed in a flat body containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled sword cactus into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all three-angled sword cacti just touch the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby accelerate the growth of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-suction submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to realize flowing oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. After water roots appear, replace the nutrient solution immediately.

Note:

During the induction process of cactus, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the body, as this can easily cause the body to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing clivia hydroponically at home

Hydroponic clivia is a both hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note:

①Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the mouth diameter should not be too large.

②Cultivation solution. Nutrient solution or clean water can be used, but when cultivating in clean water, attention must be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.

③Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes. The number of changes depends on weather conditions. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be changed about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow amaryllis hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the pasty substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and put them into a flower vessel. The flower vessel can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated amaryllis bulbs. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if tap water is used, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding or be about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower vessel. Finally, place it in a bright indoor spot. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C; after about 7-10 days, leaves and roots will begin to grow. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer must be replenished in time. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine maintenance. In this way, hydroponically treated bulbs bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, exactly catching the period in summer when flowers are scarce.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. In order to fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrate, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since the beginning of human planting history, crops have been planted in soil, so the English word agriculture is Agriculture, formed from Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that German scientists Sachs and Knop first carried out precise experiments in soilless cultivation, successfully cultivating plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are divided into hydroponic flowers with medium and hydroponic flowers without medium. Hydroponic cultivation with medium refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; hydroponic flowers without medium are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, atomized hydroponic flowers, drip irrigation under nutrient film, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by beauty, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that under greenhouse conditions, when inert substrate is used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in a timely manner, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to timely test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements. However, in a home environment, these conditions are difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed at home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless cultivation without medium. Without medium, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not emit odor, have no peculiar smell, and still grow normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and should be non-toxic. Moreover, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires the nutrient solution to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can also grow well in office and home environments. What is more, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home planting have higher technical requirements for nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare. Moreover, because of commercial interests, major flower companies regard their own nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas that can be obtained from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference materials and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environment use can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the plants on display grow vigorously and whether water roots grow, because, as the saying goes: "Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues begin to necrose below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most indoor spaces have heating, they can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only cultivate certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouse sheds, generally the common popular flowers we see can all be hydroponically cultivated. But in a home environment, because some specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be cultivated. In homes with balconies, there are more suitable varieties.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a sample of fish kept in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than 1 liter are suitable for keeping fish, and due to the limited volume, fish species should also be selected carefully. Some fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish, small koi, etc. Fish with strong aggressiveness or destructiveness are not suitable for keeping in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; and some delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even keeping them in a dedicated aquarium is difficult to succeed, let alone in a relatively poor-condition small vase. Changing the water can be done at the same time as the normal water change for the flowers. When feeding, it is the same as when we normally keep fish in a fish tank, there is no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which facilitates the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not suffer from oxygen deficiency in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not particularly hot, there is no need to install aeration equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solutions are all highly concentrated liquids and must be diluted before use; when diluting, tap water can generally fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test must be conducted to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If the content of a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula must be adjusted to facilitate the normal growth of plants.
During the dilution process, tap water can be directly used to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the difference between the water temperature and room temperature is too large, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time, to prevent the plant roots from being damaged at the root hairs due to a sudden temperature change, causing the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of plant root hydrotropism. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction with sufficient moisture. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water; in order to protect itself, the plant's root tips will grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality. However, plants growing in swamps or water will not lack water, so their roots grow more randomly, without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, without the bottom needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the bonsai growing toward the water. At this time, you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be more obvious. Similarly, you can remove from the pot a bonsai that has already grown aquatic roots, fix the plant with a planting basket, and decorate it with stones or ornaments, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clear water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need their water changed?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and also need the soil changed once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or show poor growth?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or light that is too weak. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these are the case, then we suggest you had better go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing true from false hydroponic flowers

At present, many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flowers, after witnessing everything I cannot help but air some complaints. This is because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests, but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Currently it is the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants can be kept in water for a period after their roots are washed and directly soaked in water. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can survive in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately appear. A hydroponic work bought for several dozen or several hundred yuan and brought home is only a fleeting show, not only harming consumers' interests, but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to expose the "deception techniques" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter arrives, these plants slow their growth rate and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After their roots are washed and directly soaked in water, no discomfort can be seen from the plant for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water. They can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely hindered. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul, and rot. For other plants that are slightly more terrestrial, this method cannot work at all, so this is the main reason why they can currently only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid, I think it would be better and more honest to call it "deception liquid." It is fundamentally impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Collecting high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market and truly have the meaning of franchising. But now this kind of franchising can be called swindling money. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just washing roots and soaking them in water, something even a fool could imitate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself is something that has developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower stores can likewise operate, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is also as good as thrown away. True hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transportation. In fact, what they are selling now is all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing. It might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Note: Araceae plants in late autumn, winter, and early spring can also be kept in water for a period after their roots are washed and soaked in water. Everyone might as well try it; there is absolutely no need for any induction liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also visited several countries with relatively developed hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans, a miscellaneous mix where the fake is passed off as genuine. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to sharpen your eyes and not be induced by deception liquids.

How to distinguish true from false hydroponic flowers

True and false hydroponic flowers are actually the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. Starting only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off some conventional soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social impact. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the seedlings die before long due to physiological discomfort of the plants, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish true from false from the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Judge true from false by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and will not, like roots in soil, be divided into main roots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs. That is, they will not exist in the state of multi-level branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of forked roots based on fibrous adventitious roots. The low number of levels and simple root structure are its most obvious characteristics. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, after induction the number of primary adventitious roots increases markedly, meaning the proportion of roots is greatly increased, and the root system is numerous and well developed, resembling a beard.

B. Judge true from false by root color: Plant aquatic roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties that show their natural root color, their aquatic roots are still noticeably lighter in color than terrestrial roots, such as yellowish-white, light yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of aquatic roots and the fact that cell walls have not undergone, or have undergone little, suberization and lignification thickening.

C. Judge true from false by root integrity: Roots induced by aquatic conditions begin a new round of growth and differentiation from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in the water environment, so the root system is complete. However, for some soil-cultivated plants, although they have been carefully rinsed, there are still slight injuries or serious residual roots. This kind of root integrity is difficult to achieve with soil-washed seedlings.

D. Judge true from false by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, will under anaerobic conditions undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, it appears turbid and unclear, that is, the water quality deteriorates or becomes foul, and then the root system rots until the seedling dies.

E. Leaf angle can also be used to judge true from false: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction, show leaf attachment angles that are noticeably more flat than soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation. That is, epinastic growth leads to an increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

Apart from the same requirements as soil cultivation for environmental factors such as light, temperature, and humidity, hydroponic flowers differ vastly in management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source, and generally tap water that meets national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are severely eutrophic, and various ions may differ greatly. If the content of one ion exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements, and inorganic salts in ionic form. They are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have an appropriate pH, which is conducive to nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more unacceptable to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, with dissolved oxygen below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface, in order to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution. 2. Vibrate to increase oxygen: fix the flower plant with one hand, and with the other hand hold the vessel and gently shake it more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or aeration pump (both are standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and this promotes healthy and robust flower growth.

See through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

For hydroponic flowers, the combination of flowers and fish, with the integration of movement and stillness, is the first impression it gives. The earlier concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although the earliest people also grew some easily water-cultivated plants such as certain Araceae plants and lucky bamboo in water, this concept does not belong to the "hydroponic flowers" concept popular now!). It rose in 2003. Many enterprises and institutions with market vision successively turned to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have bloomed everywhere in China. Some provided technical learning and training, some had base production, and some franchised flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, this added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this new concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own technical core and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still remain in such a chaotic market tide. Those who could remain were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new current in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three or four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the current uneven quality of the hydroponic flower market, this article makes a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the broad citizens who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding for everyone's reference:

II. What are true hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, planting plants and flowers on top (at present, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, and other plants), and keeping a few cute small fish below, that is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, true hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means, so that the physiological characteristics of their root system change, giving them aquatic roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and only after they can adapt to long-term cultivation in water can they become true hydroponic flowers (plants)!

III. How to identify true hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the current status of hydroponic flower technology. I. Introduction:
A successful true hydroponic plant, after induction and acclimation, should have a root system that is white, elegant, and with many fibrous roots, very obviously different from soil-cultivated plants. The roots of soil-cultivated plants are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root color has its own unique color, such as red-leafed loropetalum, which after induction is dark red from its roots to its branches and stem segments! There are also some plants whose roots, after soil is removed, are also nearly white!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it means it has only just been planted in the bottle not long ago and was placed there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from the technology:

Judging from the technology:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, all that is needed is so-called "induction liquid," "acclimation liquid," or "nutrient solution," and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting. Thus, a large amount of fermented matter accumulates in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects grow, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only by truly achieving the induction of plant aquatic roots, forming aerenchyma tissue, and producing hydroponic plants that can adapt well to low-oxygen conditions in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. And the cultivation of aquatic roots cannot be fully completed and achieved by nutrient solution alone. It requires the integration of biological, physical, computer, and various other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, only after fully adapting to the water environment can it become professional true hydroponic flowers!

2) Does it possess a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and arrangement. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and arrangement of ornaments such as fish and aquatic plants in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, aside from the natural sensory impression, a relatively strong artistic combination cannot be put together by an ordinary beginner! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the manufacturer possesses such an aesthetic level!

3) Does it possess the facilities and conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it possesses the facilities and conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor a powerful and branded manufacturer as a supply source, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely making "hydroponic flowers" by taking soil-cultivated plants and washing their roots!

Checking from the varieties:

The varieties of hydroponic flowers that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in the Araceae and Crassulaceae families, like peace lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, and Rohdea japonica, which are themselves easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and water-loving, and ordinary methods can achieve cultivation in water. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponics for all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polyscias fruticosa, and even plants such as Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, and fruit trees! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, then it certainly is not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from time:

Time is the final and only standard for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are only a fleeting show, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers made by speculators who wash off the soil-cultivated root system and can produce them within a few hours. Within a few days, the flowers bloom and then fade and fall! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for their goods, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, to avoid being cheated!
IV. How to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and information transmission channels to deceive and fool the broad consumers and investors. In order to make those who have no real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, yet rent a few offices in national universities (such as: Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as: Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as: the veteran cadre bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to make money, so-called high-tech shell companies and "guerrilla" technology transfer companies that fight in one place and then move to another have no place to stand. It also deprives malicious sellers who transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of a market for deception, and moreover, it is for your benefit in learning these true technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must sharpen your eyes, be more vigilant, look at several more companies, and compare more. You must carefully compare the scale of the unit, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service. {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try to go see the franchisees to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think thrice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "academic shills," "real estate shills," and "wine shills," use the level of "deception master" Zhao Benshan to fool you, making it impossible to guard against!}} You must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training ability, and relevant certificates. You must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product itself, in fact, everyone only needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through the many speculators one by one. The following points of experience, several types


 How to apply foliar fertilization to hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be used for foliar spraying.

A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer liquid run off, and the back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and twice during the growing period, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with abundant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as calla lily, wax begonia, hybrid begonia, and calla lily, a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week from the bud stage until the flowers open.

A comprehensive collection of flower meanings and suitable and taboo choices when selecting flowers

A comprehensive collection of flower meanings and suitable and taboo choices when selecting flowers

Fresh flowers convey feelings, fragrant flowers convey meaning; fashionable fresh flowers represent heartfelt sentiments. Giving flowers has long been unconsciously accepted by society, but how should flowers be given? What meanings and taboos are there? Here the editor gives everyone a rough summary for reference.

Fresh flowers are endowed by people with many meanings, and flowers of countless forms tell a thousand words. Only by understanding the language and meaning of flowers can flowers and plants display the essence of the bright moon and gather the elegance of heaven and earth. Throughout the year there are many festivals and unforgettable special days, all good opportunities for giving flowers, and different flower species represent different meanings. If you present a bouquet of flowers to win a girl's heart, or use flowers to convey feelings, it is even more delightful. Here, we provide some "flower language" mini-files for everyone's reference, so that without saying a word, you can easily convey your family affection, friendship, love, or care, regards, and blessings.

A comprehensive collection of flower meanings and suitable and taboo choices when selecting flowers

1. Rose: red, pink, white, yellow
Suitable and taboo for giving: For lovers and sweethearts, red and pink series are suitable; yellow represents apology; avoid giving roses to a friend's girlfriend or wife; avoid casually giving roses to a superior or someone of the opposite sex.

2. Lily: golden, pink, white
Suitable and taboo for giving: For lovers and sweethearts, the white series is suitable; for friends, the pink series is suitable; for elders, the golden series is suitable; for wedding congratulations, white lilies are suitable to complement red roses, taking the meaning of a harmonious union lasting a hundred years.

3. Tulip: red, pink, white, yellow, purple, golden
Suitable and taboo for giving: For lovers and sweethearts, purple, red, and white series are suitable; for friends, the pink series is suitable; for elders and artists, the yellow series is suitable; for wedding congratulations, golden is suitable, taking the meaning of a golden tulip (jade) match.

4. Carnation: red, pink, white
Suitable and taboo for giving: For mothers, red and pink series are suitable; second, for friends, pink and white series are suitable; third, for elders, the red series is suitable; avoid giving to men, lest it be mistaken as saying he is childish or effeminate.

5. Calla lily: white, yellow, red
Suitable and taboo for giving: White is suitable for giving to young friends; avoid giving orange-red varieties to ordinary friends of the opposite sex, to avoid causing misunderstanding; suitable as a bridal bouquet at weddings; avoid giving a single stem.

A comprehensive collection of flower meanings and suitable and taboo choices when selecting flowers

6. Anthurium (flamingo flower): red, white, pink, light green
Suitable and taboo for giving: Suitable for giving to warm and straightforward friends; suitable for use on joyous occasions such as weddings and celebrations; white is not suitable for giving; avoid giving a single stem, because "one hand cannot clap."

7. Gladiolus: red, pink, yellow, white
Suitable and taboo for giving: White is suitable for giving to young friends; avoid giving orange-red varieties to ordinary friends of the opposite sex, to avoid causing misunderstanding; suitable as a bridal bouquet at weddings; avoid giving a single stem.

8. Sunflower: golden yellow, red, white
Suitable and taboo for giving: Can be given to a boyfriend in passionate love; can also be given to cheerful, generous, and energetic good friends; for artists, yellow varieties are suitable; in addition, the sunflower is the lucky flower for Gemini and for those born in the Year of the Ox.

9. Baby's breath: white
Suitable and taboo for giving: Suitable for giving to the elegant and noble, praising their tranquil and far-reaching character; as a companion material for roses, it is suitable for giving to lovers; paired with gladiolus, it is suitable for giving to classmates about to graduate, meaning "bright prospects."

10. Forget-me-not: purple, pink, blue, white
Suitable and taboo for giving: Suitable for lovers to give to each other, to show lingering attachment; paired with roses, its flower language is "unchanging love"; paired with carnations, its meaning is blessing one's mother or "yearning for a mother's warmth"; avoid casually giving to someone of the opposite sex, to avoid causing misunderstanding.

11. Men and women in passionate love:
Generally give roses, lilies, etc. These flowers are beautiful, elegant, and fragrant, and are tokens and symbols of love.

12. Congratulating a friend's birthday:
It is suitable to give anthurium, symbolizing "flaming years," or green plants such as the money tree and fortune tree, symbolizing "a bright future."

A comprehensive collection of flower meanings and suitable and taboo choices when selecting flowers

13. Congratulating newlyweds:

In addition to roses, lilies, tulips, freesia, and gerbera (African daisy), one can also add chrysanthemums, gladiolus, dahlia, hyacinth, dancing-lady orchid, Dendrobium orchid, Cattleya orchid, large-flowered cymbidium, etc. Choosing anthurium expresses everlasting love; choosing Strelitzia reginae must be two stems, expressing flying wing to wing; mint expresses passionate feelings; forget-me-not expresses eternal love; camellia expresses true love.

14. Between husband and wife:
If husband and wife can give each other fresh flowers or bouquets, especially on special days such as wedding anniversaries, it will certainly evoke sweet memories of the past and enhance marital affection. Husband and wife can give each other silk tree flowers; the leaves of silk tree flowers are long and grow in pairs facing each other, and at night they embrace together, symbolizing "husband and wife forever loving." They can also give each other lilies; lilies symbolize a harmonious union lasting a hundred years, smooth and agreeable, and growing old together.

15. For people who have suffered setbacks in love:
It is suitable to give begonia, because begonia is also called acacia red, implying bitter love, as a comfort.

16. Giving flowers to patients:
Visiting patients carries the meaning of care, sympathy, and wishing for a speedy recovery. Flowers for visiting patients are suitable as orchids, calla lilies, gladiolus, etc., or varieties the patient usually likes can be chosen, which helps the patient cultivate the mind and recover soon.
There are also many taboos in giving flowers to patients -- when visiting patients, do not give whole potted flowers, lest the patient mistakenly think it means long illness takes root. Flowers with a very strong fragrance are unfavorable for surgical patients, easily causing coughing; flowers with too intense and gaudy colors will stimulate the patient's nerves and provoke irritability; camellia easily drops buds and is considered unlucky.

17. Visiting elders:
Flowers given to elders should choose flowers and plants with the meaning of prolonging life, such as kalanchoe, marigold, Monstera deliciosa, lilies, Rohdea japonica, longevity peach, and glossy ganoderma, symbolizing health, longevity, and eternal youth. Especially when visiting older elders who are advanced in age and hold high prestige, giving Chinese orchids or bonsai such as pine and cypress, ginkgo, and old banyan can better express respect. For elders of high prestige, orchids can also be given, because orchids have noble quality and are known as the "gentleman among flowers." For retired veteran comrades and veteran cadres, orchids, plum blossoms, red maples, and clivia can be chosen, respectfully wishing them lasting integrity and the demeanor and breadth of mind of a gentleman.
If it is to express gratitude to a teacher (teachers also count as elders), orchids and other floral materials can likewise be given, expressing noble quality and deserving respect.

A comprehensive collection of flower meanings and suitable and taboo choices when selecting flowers

18. Congratulating a housewarming:
It is suitable to use foliage plants or bonsai such as Brazilian iron, goosefoot plant, pothos, and caladium. Using potted plants as congratulatory gifts has the meaning of wishing the host "rapid success and promotion, gold and jade filling the hall," and these green-leaf plants also have a certain purifying effect on the decoration pollution of a new home, having both auspicious meaning and practical value.
If giving a bouquet, buying a house is a matter in one's life worth celebrating and showing off. Chinese people have always used red to represent festivity, so the color of the floral materials should mainly be the red series, with yellow color series as accompaniment, and pure white should be avoided, because Chinese people most like red to seek good fortune when a new home is completed, and pure white is regarded as taboo. Special attention must be paid to these etiquette points when giving flowers.

19. Promotion:
It is suitable to give steady and noble flowers and trees, especially bonsai, expressing respect for their noble character and integrity.

20. Visiting relatives and friends during festivals:
One may choose to give auspicious flowers such as dahlia, peony, narcissus, peach blossom, lucky fruit, kumquat, zhuangyuan red, and auspicious fruit to express "happiness and good fortune."

21. A friend going on a long journey:
When friends part and go on a long journey, it is suitable to give peonies, azaleas, and weeping willow branches, expressing reluctance to part. If this friend is an international friend, traditional Chinese famous flowers such as peonies and plum blossoms can also be chosen.

22. Visiting parents:
One may choose gladiolus, carnations, lilies, baby's breath, etc., and these flowers can also be arranged into a flower basket or bouquet, wishing parents health, a harmonious union lasting a hundred years, and happiness and fulfillment.

23. New store opening, company opening:
One may choose floral materials with meanings such as joyous, thriving, abundant wealth, evergreen through the four seasons, and good luck arriving, such as lilies, Chinese roses, Rohdea japonica, peach blossoms, and silver willow. One may also give a flower basket or flower board with a collection of many flowers, to congratulate booming business and abundant wealth.
One may also give Chinese roses, crape myrtle, azaleas, etc. These flowers have a long blooming period and luxuriant flowers, implying "thriving and abundant wealth."

A comprehensive collection of flower meanings and suitable and taboo choices when selecting flowers

24. Funerals:
It is suitable to use white roses, white chrysanthemums, yellow chrysanthemums, white lotuses, or plain flowers, to show regret and remembrance.

25. For a child's birthday:
It is suitable to choose a small flower basket with bright colors and exquisite appearance, plus some small cartoons, animals, toys, handkerchiefs, candies, and other gifts, so that they feel the gift is both warm and practical.

26. When a child is born and reaches the full-month mark:
The birth of a child is one of life's great joys. Flowers and congratulatory gifts should carry the meaning of wishing peace, luck and happiness; besides following the meaning of the flower language, you can also give flowers according to birth flowers, the twelve zodiac signs or the twelve Chinese zodiac lucky flowers.

27. Welcoming distinguished guests:
When a distinguished guest visits, or when relatives or friends return home to see family or come back after finishing their studies, present a wreath, floral decoration or bouquet the moment they step off the plane to express a warm welcome. This will surely surprise the guest and leave an unforgettable impression. For welcoming distinguished guests, red-flower color schemes and purple-flower color schemes are the most popular; the flower materials chosen should mainly carry flower languages meaning "friendship, joy, welcome, waiting, longing."

28. Banquet arrangements:
For all kinds of lectures, singing performances, dances and banquets, use wreaths, flower baskets and potted flowers to decorate the venue, which beautifies the space and conveys congratulations on complete success. Presenting wreaths and bouquets to the host or performers has an encouraging and inspiring effect, can ease tension, and can even help raise their profile.

A Comprehensive Collection of Flower Meanings and Dos and Don'ts

Giving flowers on traditional festivals: 1. Lunar New Year:
This falls in spring, which is also peak season for flower production, when all kinds of flowers are dazzling and competing in beauty. It is best to choose potted plants that celebrate the New Year, auspiciousness and added prosperity, such as primrose, lucky bamboo, cyclamen, pocketbook plant, stock, Persian buttercup, and Chinese cymbidium. You can further decorate them with bright, distinctive red ribbons, greeting cards and other ornaments to add a joyful and auspicious atmosphere.

2. Valentine's Day:
Valentine's Day is February 14. Many fresh flowers that symbolize "love" can be given. Besides the most classic red roses, you can also choose red tulips, meaning a declaration of love; yellow tulips, meaning longing love; pink morning glories, meaning tender feelings; white lilacs, meaning youth and laughter; purple lilacs, meaning first love; snapdragons, meaning cheerfulness; bromeliads, meaning perfection; Phalaenopsis orchids, meaning first love; and forget-me-nots, meaning eternal love.
When a girl gives flowers to her boyfriend, she can choose: Gerbera daisy (also known as African daisy), meaning supporting one's husband; periwinkle, meaning happy memories; calla lily, meaning shyness; stock, freesia and lily, meaning chastity.

3. Mother's Day:
To honor maternal grace, the second Sunday of May each year is Mother's Day. The most commonly used and most classic flower for Mother's Day is the carnation. It symbolizes kindness, sincerity and maternal love, and therefore enjoys the reputation of "mother's flower" and "sacred flower." On Mother's Day, red and pink carnations represent wishes for mother's health and deep love for mother; white carnations mourn a deceased mother; therefore, pay attention to flower color and never give the wrong one.
Besides carnations, there is another flower, daylily (golden needle flower), whose flower language is "hidden love, forgetting worries, healing sorrow." Its meaning is a very apt metaphor for great maternal love, symbolizing "Mom, you are truly great!" It is also very suitable as a gift flower. In addition, give forget-me-nots for eternal love; pink morning glories for delicate tenderness; and lilies and dark-colored oxalis for a loving mother's love.

4. Father's Day:
Father's Day is the third Sunday of June. The flower of Father's Day is the Dendrobium orchid, whose flower language is "father's love, joy, ability, welcome." It is the "father's flower," representing firmness and courage; you can also give fennel, representing strength; willow branches, representing frankness and directness; and boxwood, representing calmness and firmness.

A Comprehensive Collection of Flower Meanings and Dos and Don'ts

5. Dragon Boat Festival:
The Dragon Boat Festival is on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, and calamus is also chosen to ward off evil and suppress malevolence.

6. Mid-Autumn Festival:
Mid-Autumn Festival flower gifts are mostly orchids, followed by various foliage plants. Orchids can be arranged in flower baskets, antique porcelain or special containers as potted combinations. Their flowering period is long and their bearing noble and elegant, making them quite popular.

7. Teachers' Day:
You can choose flower materials symbolizing a noble soul, students everywhere, and outstanding talent, such as gladiolus, chrysanthemum, magnolia, peach blossom and sycamore.

8. Christmas:
You can choose poinsettia (also known as Christmas red, Christmas flower), meaning to drive away demons; you can also choose sunflowers, meaning that the new year will be flourishing and full of light.