Detailed Explanation of Propagation, Cultivation Methods and Shaping and Pruning Techniques for Hokkaido Boxwood

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Hokkaido boxwood is a cultivated variety of large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), an evergreen broadleaf tree species in the Celastraceae family, genus Euonymus, native to Japan. It grows relatively fast, with maximum annual height growth reaching up to 170 cm. The tree has an upright posture and stays green all year round; after autumn, its fruit has extremely high ornamental value, making it an excellent tree species for adding greenery and color in northern winters.

(1) Management techniques:

The limiting factors for Hokkaido boxwood growing in the north are severe winter frost damage and spring shoot dieback, but the more robust the plant, the stronger its resistance in these respects, so maintenance should closely revolve around preventing frost damage and shoot dieback.

After the soil thaws in spring and before new buds sprout, arrange irrigation according to actual soil moisture conditions to ensure the plant receives sufficient water and nutrients before the rapid growth period arrives. The freezing water before winter must be watered adequately. Besides root application of fertilizer, some foliar fertilizer can also be used, but no fertilizer should be applied in the late growth stage, and fertilization timing must not be later than mid-July.

Generally speaking, 4-year-old Hokkaido boxwood can completely overwinter naturally, and outdoor growth requires no protective measures, but younger seedlings require necessary protective measures. Usually one-year-old seedlings need to overwinter in plastic arch sheds, and additionally need to be covered with straw mats; two-to-three-year-old seedlings should still have arch sheds built in winter, but may go without straw mats.

(2) Propagation methods:

Cutting method:

The materials selected for cuttings can be hardwood branches, softwood branches, single buds and leaves. The bed should follow the principle of retaining water and allowing air flow without waterlogging; the medium should be disinfected with potassium permanganate or carbendazim, and the cuttings need to be soaked in rooting water. After insertion, the cutting bed should be compacted, and do not water excessively.

Sowing method:

After the seeds are harvested, the red aril should be removed promptly and the seeds dried in the shade. Before sowing, the seeds need to be stratified in sand; the humidity must not be too high, and the temperature must not exceed 15°C. Sow as early as possible after the soil thaws; sowing early is better than late, because if sowing is late, as air and soil temperatures rise, the seeds root and sprout quickly, the radicles grow long, and the radicles are easily broken during sowing, causing damage to the seeds.

Grafting method:

To cultivate large-specification, high-volume nursery stock in a short period, Euonymus bungeanus can be used as rootstock for grafting. Euonymus bungeanus has a well-developed root system, high transplant survival rate and fast growth speed; in 3 to 4 years it can grow into nursery stock with a diameter at breast height of 5 cm to 6 cm, and Hokkaido boxwood forms its crown early and has strong cold resistance.

(3) Special notes:

Shaping and pruning:

Hokkaido boxwood has obvious apical dominance and produces few branches; if allowed to grow naturally, it is very difficult to form a full crown. To cultivate a small tree with a good crown shape, its apical dominance must be broken to expand the crown. When the trunk grows to 1.2 m to 1.5 m, the top branches should be cut back to promote the formation of new branches; afterward the new branches continue to grow and form new apical dominance, which needs to be cut back again to break the apical dominance. Repeated in this way, with pruning twice a year, the crown expands year by year, and in 5 years a small tree with a full crown shape is basically formed. In addition, to promote vegetative growth, for fruiting Hokkaido boxwood, flowers and fruits should be removed promptly to avoid nutrient consumption.

Maintenance Techniques for Several Northern Evergreen Broadleaf Trees

1. Hokkaido boxwood

(1) Management techniques:

(2) Propagation methods:

Cutting method: The materials selected for cuttings can be hardwood branches, softwood branches, single buds and leaves. The sand bed should follow the principle of retaining water and allowing air flow without waterlogging; the medium should be disinfected with potassium permanganate or carbendazim, and the cuttings need to be soaked in rooting water. After insertion, the cutting bed should be compacted, and do not water excessively.

Sowing method: After the seeds are harvested, the red aril should be removed promptly and the seeds dried in the shade. Before sowing, the seeds need to be stratified in sand; the humidity must not be too high, and the temperature must not exceed 15°C. Sow as early as possible after the soil thaws; sowing early is better than late, because if sowing is late, as air and soil temperatures rise, the seeds root and sprout quickly, the radicles grow long, and the radicles are easily broken during sowing, causing damage to the seeds.

Grafting method: To cultivate large-specification, high-volume nursery stock in a short period, Euonymus bungeanus can be used as rootstock for grafting. Euonymus bungeanus has a well-developed root system, high transplant survival rate and fast growth speed; in 3 to 4 years it can grow into nursery stock with a diameter at breast height of 5 cm to 6 cm, and Hokkaido boxwood forms its crown early and has strong cold resistance.

(3) Special notes:

Shaping and pruning: Hokkaido boxwood has obvious apical dominance and produces few branches; if allowed to grow naturally, it is very difficult to form a full crown. To cultivate a small tree with a good crown shape, its apical dominance must be broken to expand the crown. When the trunk grows to 1.2 m to 1.5 m, the top branches should be cut back to promote the formation of new branches; afterward the new branches continue to grow and form new apical dominance, which needs to be cut back again to break the apical dominance. Repeated in this way, with pruning twice a year, the crown expands year by year, and in 5 years a small tree with a full crown shape is basically formed. In addition, to promote vegetative growth, for fruiting Hokkaido boxwood, flowers and fruits should be removed promptly to avoid nutrient consumption.

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Cultivation Methods for Boxwood Bonsai

Boxwood Bonsai

Boxwood, Buxaceae family, genus Buxus, evergreen shrub or small tree, also known as: mountain boxwood, thousand-year dwarf, common box, boxwood wood, small boxwood, hundred-day red, evergreen, bean-board boxwood, melon-seed boxwood. Branches are densely grown; branchlets are four-angled; branches and leaves cluster and rise upward; leaves are opposite, leathery, elliptical or obovate, with rounded or slightly notched apex and wedge-shaped base, bright green on the surface and yellow-green on the back. Flowers cluster in leaf axils or at branch tips, opening in April, yellow-green; capsules are ovoid. It is produced in the central provinces of China and in areas along the Yangtze River basin and to the south, and is mostly planted in gardens or potted for ornamental purposes.

The main species and varieties of boxwood include spoon-leaf boxwood, also called bird's-tongue boxwood; fish-scale boxwood, also called pearl boxwood, with a graceful tree posture, is a precious species for making bonsai.

Boxwood bonsai has a graceful tree posture, with leaves as small as broad beans, thick and glossy, evergreen all year round, and can be enjoyed throughout the year.

Production and cultivation methods for boxwood bonsai:

I. Seedling sources.

If seedlings propagated by sowing or cuttings are used for boxwood bonsai, they need to be cultivated for several years before taking shape. If old stumps are selected from mountain wilds for bonsai, the time is shorter. When digging wild tree stumps, overly long roots and dense branches should be pruned, native soil should be kept, and it is best to grow them in the open ground for 1-2 years before potting and processing.

II. Styling.

Boxwood styling is mainly by wire wrapping, and coarse wrapping with fine pruning can also be used. Boxwood branches are hard and the bark is thin, so metal wire should not be used for wrapping; brown silk is best. The wrapping period is mostly in spring, while pruning can be carried out at any time.

Boxwood is suitable for slanting-trunk style, curved-trunk style and cliff style, etc. In the traditional forms of Yangzhou-style bonsai, the branches and leaves of boxwood are all made into cloud-flake shapes by fine wrapping and careful pruning, while in Suzhou-style bonsai, they are made into steamed-bun shapes by coarse wrapping and fine pruning, each with its own characteristics. Boxwood has strong sprouting ability and tolerates pruning, and can also be processed by pruning into a natural large-tree shape. Boxwood sprouts relatively quickly and should be pruned frequently. Generally, after each new shoot emerges, cut off the first 1-2 nodes to prevent leggy growth and maintain the beauty of the tree shape. After boxwood sets fruit, it should be removed promptly to avoid nutrient consumption and affecting growth vigor. If boxwood bonsai is matched with ornamental stones, its form becomes more natural and wonderful.

III. Maintenance.

Boxwood likes light and is also slightly shade-tolerant; it is relatively cold-tolerant and suitable for growing in fertile, moist, loose places, and can adapt to acidic soil, neutral soil or slightly alkaline soil. However, for soil, it is still best to use fertile, loose, well-aerated and well-drained matured garden soil or leaf mold mixed with an appropriate amount of rice-hull ash as the growing medium.

Boxwood is suitable for placement in semi-shade, and in summer special attention must be paid to shading. In winter, except in severe cold regions, it can generally overwinter outdoors; bury the pot in a wind-sheltered, sunny place, but after frost the leaf color often turns red.

Boxwood potting soil should preferably be slightly on the moist side, but should not be waterlogged. In summer high temperatures, besides shading, it also needs watering morning and evening. Repotting is done every 2-3 years, preferably before spring sprouting or after autumn new shoots have matured. When repotting, part of the old roots should be removed, and 1/2 of the old soil should be removed, and it should be changed into a pot one size larger to facilitate root development.

Boxwood grows slowly and has low fertilizer requirements; generally applying fertilizer 1-2 times in spring and once in autumn with decomposed cake fertilizer water is sufficient.

The main pests of boxwood are scale insects and the large-leaf boxwood looper. Scale insects can be killed by manual brushing, or sprayed with 80% dichlorvos at 1500 times dilution. The large-leaf boxwood looper can be sprayed with 80% trichlorfon wettable powder, or with 40% omethoate at 1000-2000 times dilution.

The main disease of boxwood is sooty mold, which can cause leaf drop. The key to prevention and control is to remove scale insects and frequently spray water on the leaf surface to wash off dust.

The Hermit of Deep Mountains - Pearl Boxwood

Pearl boxwood dwells in deep mountains and perilous ridges; without enduring the hardship of climbing and the difficulty of thorns, it is very hard to meet it once. Its trunk is ancient and round, with a look of a hundred years without aging; its branches bend three times per inch, as if having weathered all the hardships of wind and frost; its leaves are as fine as pearl scales, floating red and flowing green, with the crystal clarity of jade and agate, and also the brilliance of splendid fish scales, possessing a unique charm. Looking at the branches, leaves, flowers and fruits of pearl boxwood, it does not change its branches in winter, nor its leaves in summer; its plain flowers are dot-like, and its capsules are unadorned, so it can be called pure in conduct and noble in character, and highly modest, truly worthy of being called a gentleman among trees and a hermit of deep mountains.

Pearl boxwood is a top-grade material for making stump bonsai. From late autumn to early spring, select plants with excellent trunks and branches in the wild, dig them up together with roots and soil, wrap the root ball with moist green moss, put them in plastic bags, and bring them home for potting. According to the tree shape of the trunk and branches, choose an antique and suitable purple-clay pot, pad the drainage holes with plastic window screen or palm fiber, and plant with high-mountain humus soil; after determining the reclining and tilting of the trunk and branches, according to the overall composition of the stump bonsai, cut off excess branches and leaves, fill soil around the roots, press the soil firmly with fingers, water thoroughly once, and place in a shady, wind-sheltered place. The main trunk of pearl boxwood generally takes its natural form, and forced twisting for styling is not practiced; the twisting and pulling of branches is carried out after the plant has established in the pot and survived. Mostly fine copper wire is used to twist branches or to pull them, so as to obtain the most satisfactory layers and composition. During the growing season, pinch the tips frequently, leaving only 2 leaves each time, to promote lateral bud germination, so that it grows with lush branches and leaves, as if natural.

Maintenance of pearl boxwood is not difficult. For irrigation water, river water, pond water or pool water is best, and it is best to add a little ferrous sulfate to increase the acidity of the water, at a concentration of about 0.05%. Pearl boxwood often grows in foggy environments and needs diffused light; it fears exposure to the sun in summer. In the severe heat of midsummer, it should be placed in a cool, ventilated place under a shade shed, and water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently to increase the air humidity around the plant. Pearl boxwood does not like heavy fertilizer; generally applying decomposed dilute cake fertilizer once a month is sufficient, and high-concentration chemical fertilizers such as urea must be avoided; in hot summers, fertilization may be omitted. The leaves of pearl boxwood are easily harmed by leaf-eating pests; once discovered, they should be caught and killed promptly, or sprayed with low-concentration pesticides such as trichlorfon or dimethoate solution.

Small seedlings of pearl boxwood can be used to accent rock bonsai and to make miniature bonsai. If small seedlings are needed to accent rockeries or make small bonsai, then before early spring take 1- to 2-year-old small branches, 10 to 15 cm long, cut off the lower leaves, insert them into sandy loam or forest humus soil, water frequently to keep moist, and they will root in about one month; the following spring they can be used to accent rockeries and make miniature bonsai.

Large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus)

Aliases: Euonymus japonicus, Masaki, fangfang tree, four-season green, seven-mile fragrance, Japanese euonymus.

Evergreen shrub or small tree, up to 5 m tall; branchlets nearly four-angled. Leaves leathery, glossy on the surface, obovate or narrowly elliptical, 3-6 cm long, 2-3 cm wide, apex pointed or blunt, base wedge-shaped, margin finely serrate; petiole about 6-12 mm long. Flowers greenish-white, in fours, 5-12 arranged in dense cymes, axillary. Capsules nearly spherical, with 4 shallow grooves, about 1 cm in diameter; seeds brown, aril orange-red. Flowering period June-July, fruit ripening period September-October.

Large-leaf boxwood is a temperate and subtropical tree species, produced in the central and northern provinces of China, widely cultivated, and also distributed in Japan. It likes light and is also relatively shade-tolerant. It likes a warm, humid climate and is also relatively cold-tolerant. It requires fertile, loose soil and is extremely tolerant of pruning and shaping.

Tests by the Jiangsu Institute of Botany show that this species has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide. It is propagated by cuttings or cuttings. There are many cultivated varieties; common ones include silver-edge Euonymus japonicus, with white leaf margins. Golden-edge Euonymus japonicus, with yellow leaf margins. Golden-center Euonymus japonicus, with yellow spots on the leaf surface, and some branch tips also yellow. Variegated-leaf Euonymus japonicus, with large leaves, bright green, and yellow on the leaf surface.

Large-leaf boxwood is commonly propagated by cuttings, and rooting is fastest when cuttings are taken in the plum rain season. Select semi-lignified mature branches, 12-15 cm long, insert them into a seedbed of half sand and half soil, and they will root in 20-25 days after insertion. Seedling transplanting is mostly carried out in spring from March to April, and large seedlings need to be transplanted with soil. The main management work is pruning and shaping. After pruning, its branches sprout very easily, so it needs to be pruned multiple times a year to maintain a certain tree shape.

The pests of large-leaf boxwood include long scale insects, flat stinging moths and boxwood spotted moths, which harm the leaves, and attention should be paid to prevention and control. For scale insects, 20 times dilution of rosin mixture can be used for control; for flat stinging moths and boxwood spotted moths, 40% omethoate or isocarbophos at 1000 times dilution can be used for control during the larval stage.

Silver-edge boxwood

Alias: silver-edge Euonymus japonicus

It is a variety of the plant Euonymus japonicus of this genus.

The difference from the original species is: the leaf margin is yellow-white.

Korean boxwood

Origin and distribution: Cultivated in Jinzhou, Fushun, Anshan, Dalian, Xiongyue and Shenyang in Liaoning Province.

Korean boxwood has dense branches; branchlets are nearly four-angled, gray, and young branches are green or brown-green. Leaves are elliptical, ovate or long elliptical, leathery, entire, apex slightly notched, base wedge-shaped, dark green on the leaf surface and light green on the back. Petioles and midveins on the back of leaves are densely hairy. Flowers cluster in leaf axils, or are terminal. Flowering period mid-to-late April. Capsules have 3 chambers, each chamber with 2 black glossy seeds. Fruit ripening period late July to early August.

Korean boxwood is a relatively cold-tolerant tree species in the Buxaceae family; seedlings over 5 years old basically have no frost damage when cultivated in the open ground in Shenyang. It is a sun-loving tree and relatively likes light. It can also grow normally when cultivated under appropriate shading conditions. It is not tolerant of waterlogging.

Korean boxwood is a good tree species for bonsai and hedges, can be pruned and shaped, and is used for garden ornament. Its wood is hard and fine, suitable for carving.

Prostrate boxwood

Prostrate boxwood is a creeping dwarf shrub; branchlets sparsely covered with fine pubescence or nearly hairless, usually twisted. Leaves and fruits are both small; leaves only reach 1-1.4 cm in length, usually below 1 cm; fruit diameter is no more than 6-7 mm. Flowering period February-March, fruiting period August-September.

Distribution and habitat: Produced in Dali, Lijiang, Zhongdian, Yongning and other areas, on limestone rocks at an altitude of 3000-3600 m. Also produced in southeastern Xizang and the western Himalayas.

Hokkaido boxwood

The evergreen Hokkaido boxwood is a tree species introduced from Japan by the Chinese Academy of Forestry in the mid-1980s; it is an evergreen broadleaf tree in the Celastraceae family. It is cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, and can remain green at minus 23.9 degrees Celsius. The tree is tall, with an upright posture, evergreen in all four seasons, with green leaves and red fruits in winter. The demand for small seedlings is large; a 20 cm tall small seedling can sell for more than 20 yuan in Beijing. In recent years it can still only be sold among nurseries in various places for propagation, and cannot be used directly for greening. Therefore, after a few years, its nursery stock sales volume will inevitably increase sharply. According to relevant sources, in the future Beijing, Tianjin and other cities will change the traditional model in urban greening and develop toward a higher grade, mainly using tree species for greening and beautification that are evergreen in all four seasons and pollution-free; Hokkaido boxwood is an indispensable tree species.

(1) Morphological characteristics of Hokkaido boxwood: Hokkaido boxwood is an evergreen tree, up to 8-10 m tall; leaves leathery, dark green on the front and light green on the back, and in severe winter the leaves remain emerald green with no leaf drop. The leaves are ovate or long elliptical, 5-6 cm long and 4-5 cm wide, with slightly wavy leaf margins, and petioles about 1 cm long. Flowers are light yellow, 0.1-1 cm in diameter; capsules are nearly spherical, with 4 shallow grooves, 1-2 cm in diameter; when young the fruit is light green, and the sun-facing side is brown-red; seeds are nearly spherical, ripening in November, and when ripe the pericarp splits open automatically, exposing the orange-red seeds that have broken through the seed coat, with red fruits and green leaves all over the tree; viewed from afar or up close, it is quite interesting and the scenery is pleasant.

(2) Biological characteristics of Hokkaido boxwood: Hokkaido boxwood likes light and is also relatively shade-tolerant; it likes warm, humid climates. Relevant data show that when the absolute minimum temperature in Sapporo, Japan is -23.9 degrees Celsius, Hokkaido boxwood remains unharmed. The average annual seedling height is 1 m to 1.8 m; three-year-old seedlings can reach 3.5 m, with ground diameter over 3 cm. The growth of seedlings in the first three or four years is particularly obvious, with relatively few branches produced; after 5 years it enters the initial fruiting stage, and from 6 to 8 years it enters the full fruiting stage.

(3) Disease resistance: Hokkaido boxwood in Japan has relatively strong resistance to powdery mildew and black spot.

Bird's-tongue boxwood

Alias: spoon-leaf boxwood

Morphological characteristics: Evergreen dwarf shrub, with many and dense branches, forming clumps. Leaves relatively long, oblanceolate or obovate-elliptical, apex blunt and slightly notched, surface green and glossy, petioles extremely short.

Growth habits of bird's-tongue boxwood: Likes warm, humid and sunny environments, tolerates drought and semi-shade, requires loose, fertile and well-drained sandy loam. Weakly sun-loving, tolerates pruning, relatively cold-tolerant, pollution-resistant.

Propagation and cultivation of bird's-tongue boxwood: Mainly propagated by cuttings and layering. For cuttings, the plum rain season is best; select young branches as cuttings, 10-12 cm long, and they will root 40-50 days after insertion. For layering, carried out in March-April, press two-year-old branches into the soil, and separate from the mother plant and transplant the following spring. Before transplanting, for ground planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied first, and the soil should be kept moist during the growing period. Apply fertilizer once a month, and prune to keep the tree posture at a certain height and form. For potting, it is suitable in spring, autumn or the plum rain season; after potting, control fertilizer and water, and use pruning to control plant shape.

Landscape uses: Bird's-tongue boxwood has lush branches and leaves, unique leaf shape, and is evergreen all year round. It is often used for hedges, flower beds and potted plants, pruned into various shapes, and is a good material for accenting small courtyards and entrances.

Common box (narrow-leaf boxwood)

Shrub, about 1-1.5 m tall; branchlets nearly four-angled, yellow-green, striped, nearly hairless. Leaves leathery, long ovate or ovate-oblong, 1.5-2 cm long, 1-1.2 cm wide, apex rounded, occasionally slightly notched, base wedge-shaped, dark green and glossy on the leaf surface, midvein raised, pale white on the back of the leaf, midvein flat, initially covered with fine hairs, lateral veins inconspicuous on both sides; with short petioles, sparsely hairy. Racemes axillary. Male flowers: sepals 4, imbricate, arranged in 2 whorls; outer whorl ovate, 2 mm long, membranous, concave, sparsely pubescent on the back; inner whorl nearly circular, 2 mm long, nearly 2 mm wide, concave, margin without cilia; stamens 4, 3 mm long, slightly longer than sepals; anthers elliptical, apex without pointed tip, dorsifixed; sterile pistil rod-shaped, 2/3 the length of the sepals, apex enlarged. Female flowers: sepals 6, arranged in 2 whorls; ovary 3-chambered, styles 3, stigma obcordate. Capsules spherical, dehiscing loculicidally by 3 valves. Seeds black, glossy. Flowering period January-February, fruiting period May.

Common box is a shade-tolerant tree species, not suitable for direct sunlight, and likes warm, humid climates. It is suitable for growing in well-drained, deep, fertile soil. It is drought-tolerant, avoids low-lying waterlogging, and is relatively cold-tolerant. Native to central Europe, from southern Europe to the Caucasus. Commonly cultivated as hedges. It is suitable for planting as hedges in courtyards or at the edges of flower beds, and can also be planted as specimens on lawns, in groups, or in rows along roadsides. It can accent rocks, or be used as potted plants or bonsai for indoor greening.

Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood belongs to the Buxaceae family and is derived from a variation of common box; it is an evergreen shrub. Its leaf color is bright yellow in spring and autumn, yellower than rapeseed flowers; orange-yellow in winter, and tender yellow in summer. Leaves are elliptical, leathery, containing more wax, and glossy; especially in spring and autumn, the leaves glitter golden under the sunlight, very beautiful. Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood likes light, can tolerate shade, and is not tolerant of waterlogging. If water accumulates for a long time, it will cause part of the roots to suffocate and die, and the leaves will turn withered yellow, affecting the ornamental effect. Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood has a medium growth rate; in the southern Jiangsu area, it takes only 1-2 years to grow from a 10 cm seedling into a 25-30 cm ball. Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood has no strict soil requirements; general soil can grow it well, but well-drained, fertile soil is best. Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood has no diseases, but has pests, with the damage period from May to early October each year. It is drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant; wherever small-leaf boxwood can grow, it can grow well. We have successfully trial-planted it in the Lanzhou area and Beijing area. Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood is relatively extensively managed; just pay attention to drainage in the rainy season, pest prevention and control from May to October, and frequent fertilization.

Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood does not bloom or set seed, and can only be propagated by cuttings. For cuttings, select just-lignified branches, and they generally root in one month. The soil for the seedbed should be repeatedly turned and sun-dried, then mixed evenly with 1/3 rice-hull ash, made fine and level for later use. The seedbed is generally 25-30 cm high and 100 cm wide. Cutting time is generally from March to October. After cutting in spring and autumn, add a shade net; for summer cuttings, two layers of shade net, high and low, are needed to prevent young branches from losing water and affecting survival. For overwintering, the seedbed should be covered with plastic film; especially for newly rooted small seedlings or cuttings that have not yet rooted, this is an indispensable measure.

In greening projects, color-changing golden-leaf boxwood is suitable as hedges, color blocks, or assembled into other patterns; large balls can be used as landscape features. In the hands of bonsai masters, color-changing golden-leaf boxwood is also a superior material for making bonsai.

Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood has five major advantages compared with golden-leaf privet:

First, color-changing golden-leaf boxwood is beautiful in all four seasons; while golden-leaf privet looks rather unattractive from late autumn to early spring the following year, and is even in a semi-deciduous state in northern regions.

Second, golden-leaf privet is prone to black spot, while color-changing golden-leaf boxwood has no diseases and is easy to manage.

Third, golden-leaf privet grows too fast and requires more manual pruning, while color-changing golden-leaf boxwood only needs pruning 1-2 times a year.

Fourth, the leaves of color-changing golden-leaf boxwood are leathery, rich in wax and glossy, while golden-leaf privet is not.

Fifth, color-changing golden-leaf boxwood is cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, with strong adaptability, and does not drop leaves in winter, while golden-leaf privet is in a deciduous or semi-deciduous state in northern and northwestern regions, and its leaves curl up at the slightest drought, affecting appearance.

Color-changing golden-leaf boxwood has high grade, beautiful color, is easy to manage, and has strong adaptability; in future landscaping projects, it will be used more and more widely.

Detailed Explanation of Propagation, Cultivation Methods and Shaping and Pruning Techniques for Hokkaido Boxwood

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Cultivation Methods for Boxwood Bonsai

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