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What causes the leaves of newly transplanted Photinia × fraseri to wither and die?

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According to staff at the Yuyao Ruanyi Seed Industry Nursery Base, some customers often ask why the leaves of Photinia × fraseri all died shortly after they bought and planted them. Is it a problem with the Photinia × fraseri saplings? We have also checked the relevant information here, and it has been confirmed that the saplings are not the problem.

According to staff at the Yuyao Ruanyi Seed Industry Nursery Base, some customers often ask why the leaves of Photinia × fraseri all died shortly after they bought and planted them. Is it a problem with the Photinia × fraseri saplings? We have also checked the relevant information here, and it has been confirmed that the saplings are not the problem. Rather, it is caused by people failing to correctly grasp the growth habits of Photinia × fraseri when transplanting.

Photinia × fraseri has 2 to 4 bud-break growth periods a year. The fastest and longest-lasting growth occurs in spring. From around the 15th day of the first lunar month to around Qingming, the young shoots of Photinia × fraseri have a very high water content and can hardly withstand prolonged water loss. Spring transplanting of Photinia × fraseri should be done before early March, but not earlier than the Beginning of Spring. Too early, and the weather is still cold, which affects the survival rate; too late, and the young shoots are damaged. Photinia × fraseri transplanted in April must have water retention measures done well, otherwise most of the young shoots of Photinia × fraseri will wither and die.

Photinia × fraseri that has reached 50 cm is recommended to be transplanted before early March or after the end of April, so as to effectively ensure that the young shoots and new leaves are not damaged or are minimally damaged. Otherwise, water retention and similar measures for Photinia × fraseri must be done well.

Why do the leaves of newly transplanted Photinia × fraseri wither and die?

Many customers often ask, why have all the leaves of the newly transplanted Photinia × fraseri seedlings died? Is there a quality problem with the Photinia × fraseri nursery stock? The answer is no.

Why do the leaves of newly transplanted Photinia × fraseri wither and die?

Many customers often ask, why have all the leaves of the newly transplanted Photinia × fraseri seedlings died? Is there a quality problem with the Photinia × fraseri nursery stock? The answer is no.

Based on observations at the Lantian Nursery Farm in Pukou District, Nanjing, we believe that Photinia × fraseri has 2 to 4 bud-break growth periods in a year, among which the fastest and longest-lasting growth occurs in spring. From around the 15th day of the first lunar month until after Qingming, the young shoots of Photinia × fraseri have a very high water content. In other words, their degree of lignification is very low, and they can hardly withstand prolonged water loss. If you transplant in spring, you should move the transplanting time as early as possible to before early March, though of course not earlier than the Beginning of Spring. Because if it is too early, Photinia × fraseri may encounter severe cold, affecting the survival rate; if it is too late, the young shoots will be damaged. Especially for transplanting in April, please pay special attention: in most cases, the young shoots will wither. Unless your water retention work is done particularly well, such as misting treatment or installing shade netting.

Our recommendations:

Bare-root small seedlings of Photinia × fraseri are not suitable for planting in April. If planting must be done, please install shade netting, or choose container-grown Photinia × fraseri seedlings;

50 cmPhotinia × fraseri ballsand above specifications, it is recommended to transplant before early March or after the end of April (new branches begin to lignify in late April), to ensure that the young shoots and new leaves are not damaged or are minimally damaged. Customers who cannot stagger the planting time may consider using shade netting, or increasing the frequency of misting and watering.

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