Cycad (Sago Palm) Home Cultivation Methods and Care Knowledge
The cycad is botanically known as Cycas revoluta, also called Japanese sago palm, sago palm, and fire-avoiding palm. It belongs to the family Cycadaceae, genus Cycas, and is an evergreen tree. It is native to south-central China, India, Japan, and Indonesia, originating in East Asia and Southeast Asia. It is widely cultivated in Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hunan, Sichuan, and other places. In North China, Northwest China, and other regions, it is grown as a potted plant for indoor ornamental display. Cycas revoluta prefers sunlight, dry conditions, and a well-ventilated environment. It is not cold-tolerant, is fond of fertilizer, prefers sandy soil, and grows slowly.
In its place of origin, the cycad can reach a height of up to 8 m, and as an indoor potted plant it can reach up to 3 m. The stem is thick and cylindrical, without branches, and has prominent leaf scars forming a fish-scale pattern. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem and are large pinnate compound leaves, about 1 m long. The leaflets are linear, leathery, with hard tips, dark green and glossy, with recurved leaf margins. Each spring it produces 2 to 3 whorls, while the old leaves gradually fall off. The flowers are unisexual, borne at the top of the stem, with male and female flowers on separate plants. The male flower is spirally arranged, pineapple-shaped, covered with downy hairs, fresh pale yellow when first opening, turning brown when mature. The female flower is larger, with numerous palmate scales, shaped like a flattened cylinder, gradually splitting to form a pinecone shape. Cycads rarely bloom; old trees of twenty or thirty years can bloom, hence the saying “a thousand-year cycad blooms but once.” The flowering period is from June to August.
Cycads are mainly propagated by offshoot branches, and can also be propagated by sowing or cuttings.
Propagation by sowing:
Collect cycad seeds in October, or use plump seeds no more than two years old. Soak them in warm water at about 50°C for 24 hours, then soak in dilute hydrochloric acid or dilute sulfuric acid for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse clean with water. During soaking, change the clean water every other day. After the seed coat has fully absorbed water, swelled, and softened, manually peel off the outer seed coat, wash away the fruit pulp, air-dry the seeds, and then store them well. Around December, carry out sand stratification treatment of the seeds. Because the seed coat is thick and hard, a variable-temperature method can be used, and finally sand stratification is carried out. Use clean sandy loam, river sand, perlite, and other materials with good water retention and air permeability to make the sowing bed, with a thickness of no less than 40 cm, and water it thoroughly. Sow the prepared seeds into the bed at a spacing of 5 to 20°C cm, at a depth of about 3 cm. Then cover with river sand 3 cm thick. Control the amount of watering according to the dryness of the soil in the bed and the fine sand cover. After watering, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and warmth. Once a week, choose a sunny morning to uncover the film for ventilation. When the soil is dry, water to keep it moist, and cover the film again at sunset in the afternoon. Generally, cycad sand stratification takes 4 to 6 months. During this period, maintain the temperature and humidity of the sand stratification, with an optimum temperature of 18 to 25°C and relative humidity of 80 to 90%. Ensure winter insulation, not lower than 12°C. In May to June of the following year, the seeds germinate and break out of the shell, and in July to August they sprout and grow one true leaf.
Propagation by division:
Propagation by division should be done in summer. Separate the suckers from the stem of the mother plant, insert them into open ground or a pot, and bury half in soil. The survival rate of propagation by division can reach 80 to 90%. Suckers grow slowly, so it is best to take suckers after 3 years to separate. Suckers with small wounds survive easily. The stem can also be cut into long sections of 15 to 20 cm and buried in sandy soil so that new buds form around the stem section, after which they are divided and cultivated separately.
Cycads are suitable for growing under direct sunlight or bright scattered light. In summer, it is best to provide half shade, maintain the temperature at 15 to 20°C, keep soil and air humidity somewhat higher, and frequently mist the leaf cluster. This plant has no dormant period. In winter, the temperature should preferably be 12 to 16°C, and the plant has a considerable degree of cold resistance. From March to September, apply liquid fertilizer once a month. The growing medium is preferably a mixture of equal amounts of organic soil, peat, and fine sand. Change the potting soil every 2 to 3 years, adding new soil and base fertilizer to aid growth. In summer, liquid fertilizer can be applied several times, and ferrous sulfate solution can be added to make the leaf color even darker green. After autumn begins, reduce the amount of watering. Among cycad pests and diseases, scale insects are the most common on leaves. First, maintain good ventilation. After discovering scale insects, observe the hatching period and spray lime sulfur mixture or fluoroacetamide.
Below is an introduction to cycad care knowledge:
1. Potting soil and repotting
Cycas revoluta is suitable for growing in fertile, slightly acidic sandy soil. Technical staff from Fujian Huibaichuan Horticulture introduce that the potting soil can be prepared with 1 part coarse sand and 2 parts garden soil, or 3 parts leaf mold and 1 part fine gravel, or 2 parts sandy soil and 1 part leaf mold, plus a small amount of 0.5% ferrous sulfate (used as a pH regulator). Cycas revoluta is a plant that likes iron, so when preparing potting soil, a small amount of iron filings can be mixed in, or in early spring iron filings can be placed on the pot soil or buried in the pot, so that iron gradually seeps in and is absorbed. A 0.5% ferrous sulfate solution can also be used to supplement iron, making the leaves firm and emerald green. Repotting is carried out in early spring before budding. Small pots are repotted once every 1 to 2 years, and large pots once every 3 to 4 years. When repotting, you can change the soil without changing the pot, or change both the soil and the pot. Generally, only after 2 to 3 years, when the seedling is somewhat larger, is it moved to a larger pot. When repotting, first tap the edge of the flowerpot with your hand, then hold the leaves with your hand and tip the pot sideways to take out the plant with the soil. Be careful not to break the leaves. Peel off the soil at the edge and upper part of the root ball, keep one-third of the old soil, and properly prune old roots, fibrous roots, and old leaves. Generally, no pruning is needed for leaves that remain emerald green and upright. Then place it in the pot, put new soil into the gaps, and press firm. More tile pieces should be placed at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage. After repotting, water thoroughly to settle the roots, wetting all the potting soil until water comes out from the bottom of the pot, and place it in a cool place on the balcony. After eight to ten days, move it into the sunlight.
2. Watering and fertilizing
When caring for Cycas revoluta, soil moisture should be kept at about 60%, and watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. According to technical guidance provided by Fujian Huibaichuan Horticulture, during the vigorous leaf growth period in spring and summer, especially in the hot and dry summer climate, more water should be given, once in the morning and once in the evening, and the leaf surface should be sprayed to keep the leaves fresh and emerald green. After autumn begins, water once every 2 to 5 days. During the growth period, apply compound fertilizer or urea once to twice a month. Urea is best applied as a foliar fertilizer by spraying the leaves with a 0.2% aqueous solution. Foliar fertilizer should follow the principle of “small meals, more often.” Apply peanut bran once each year in early spring. Peanut bran can be applied directly to the pot surface or buried in the potting soil without water fermentation. The rice-washing water from daily cooking at home, without any oil stains, can be collected in a bucket or basin and used the next day as liquid fertilizer for irrigation, and it has a certain fertilizing effect.
3. Pruning and placement
Cycas revoluta prefers a warm and humid climate, likes sunlight, and is also shade-tolerant. It grows relatively slowly, producing only 1 whorl of leaves each year. Only after the new leaves have expanded and matured should the old lower leaves be cut off, maintaining 2 to 3 whorls of leaves. It does not need frequent pruning. Even when transplanting into a pot or repotting, not much pruning is needed. When leaves are damaged by pests and diseases, or yellow and dry due to harsh natural conditions, they should be cut off in time. Different balcony orientations have different light intensity, which affects the growth of Cycas revoluta differently. A balcony facing south is most suitable for placing potted plants. Balconies facing north and east can also be used for potted plants. A balcony facing west gets strong afternoon sun in summer, which is hot and dry and easily causes leaf scorch and yellowing in cycads, so it is not suitable for placing potted plants. In hot and dry summer weather, wet the balcony floor several times a day to lower the temperature and increase air humidity. Cycas revoluta should not be placed in a living room or hall for too long; lacking light, the leaves become slender and lose their green color. In the cold and gloomy winter, it can be placed in the hall for a longer time, when the sun shines.
However, for home cultivation of cycads, we generally suggest it is better not to choose too large a plant. A medium pot with a diameter of 20 to 30 cm is usually chosen. Before planting the cycad, place coarse sand or crushed stone 2 cm thick at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. The potting soil is preferably mixed with 4 parts leaf mold, 3 parts garden soil, 1 part bone meal, 2 parts river sand, and 200 grams of rusty iron filings, using decomposed bean cake fertilizer as base fertilizer. After planting, water thoroughly and place in a cool place for half a month, then move it to a sunny, north-wind-sheltered place for care. Keep the potting soil moist often, but not overly wet. In April to May, water about once every 2 days. Cycads are not tolerant of waterlogging, so pay attention to timely drainage after rain. From June to August, growth is faster. At this time, temperatures rise and evaporation is high, so the amount of watering can be appropriately increased. Except on rainy days, water once a day. After September, control watering and follow the principle of “alternating dry and wet.” During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 15 to 20 days. Stop fertilizing after autumn begins.
Cycads like sunlight. In spring and autumn, during the seedling stage, it is best to keep them in a place with direct sunlight (but not exposed to scorching sun) for care. After the new leaves have grown, move them indoors for viewing. In winter, when the temperature is below 0 degrees, they should be moved indoors to overwinter. Indoor humidity should be kept at 5 to 10 degrees. In April of the following year, move them outside, and repot once every 2 to 3 years. During the growth of the cycad, when the main trunk reaches 40 to 50 cm in height and the new leaves have grown, the lower withered, weak, and yellow leaves should be cut off for one whorl, or this should be done at least once every two years, to keep the tree shape neat and full.
Under normal development, a cycad can produce 2 whorls of new leaves each spring. If the plant is found not to produce new leaves for 2 to 3 years, or the leaves turn yellow and dry up, check in time whether the root system is rotten. If there is root rot, remove the rotten parts, move it indoors and plant it in plain sand, control watering, and after some time it can recover and continue growing.
Potted cycads can be moved outside in April to May. When repotting every 2 to 3 years, replace with new soil. The potting soil is best as fertile, loose sandy loam. When repotting, place broken tile pieces and coarse gravel at the bottom of the pot to make a good drainage layer, and apply 2 to 3 pieces of horseshoe chips and cake fertilizer as base fertilizer. In the vigorous summer growth period, apply dilute decomposed cake fertilizer water once or twice a month. If “black alum water” (ferrous sulfate) is added to the top dressing, the leaf color can become dark green and glossy. Stop fertilizing after autumn begins.
For watering potted Cycas revoluta, for newly potted cycads, the potting soil should not be overly moist; keep the potting soil neither dry nor wet, maintaining appropriate dryness to avoid root rot. After the new leaves extend, appropriately increase the amount of watering. In summer, the vigorous growth season, it can be slightly more, watering once a day. After autumn begins, growth gradually slows, and attention should also be paid to controlling the amount of watering. In the rainy season, absolutely avoid water accumulation in the pot. After the new leaves have spread out, the withered, weak, and yellow leaves should be cut off to maintain the plant's graceful appearance.
Cycad cultivation methods
Introduction to cycad cultivation methods - The cycad is botanically known as Cycas revoluta, also called Japanese sago palm, sago palm, and fire-avoiding palm. It belongs to the family Cycadaceae, genus Cycas, and is an evergreen tree. It is native to south-central China, India, Japan, and Indonesia, originating in East Asia and Southeast Asia. It is widely cultivated in Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hunan, Sichuan, and other places. In North China, Northwest China, and other regions, it is grown as a potted plant for indoor ornamental display. Cycas revoluta prefers sunlight, dry conditions, and a well-ventilated environment. It is not cold-tolerant, is fond of fertilizer, prefers sandy soil, and grows slowly. In its place of origin, the cycad can reach a height of up to 8 m, and as an indoor potted plant it can reach up to 3 m. The stem is thick and cylindrical, without branches, and has prominent leaf scars forming a fish-scale pattern. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem and are large pinnate compound leaves, about 1 m long. The leaflets are linear, leathery, with hard tips, dark green and glossy, with recurved leaf margins. Each spring it produces 2 to 3 whorls, while the old leaves gradually fall off. The flowers are unisexual, borne at the top of the stem, with male and female flowers on separate plants. The male flower is spirally arranged, pineapple-shaped, covered with downy hairs, fresh pale yellow when first opening, turning brown when mature. The female flower is larger, with numerous palmate scales, shaped like a flattened cylinder, gradually splitting to form a pinecone shape. Cycads rarely bloom; old trees of twenty or thirty years can bloom, hence the saying “a thousand-year cycad blooms but once.” The flowering period is from June to August.
Cycads are mainly propagated by offshoot branches, and can also be propagated by sowing or cuttings.
Propagation by sowing:
Collect cycad seeds in October, or use plump seeds no more than two years old. Soak them in warm water at about 50°C for 24 hours, then soak in dilute hydrochloric acid or dilute sulfuric acid for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse clean with water. During soaking, change the clean water every other day. After the seed coat has fully absorbed water, swelled, and softened, manually peel off the outer seed coat, wash away the fruit pulp, air-dry the seeds, and then store them well. Around December, carry out sand stratification treatment of the seeds. Because the seed coat is thick and hard, a variable-temperature method can be used, and finally sand stratification is carried out. Use clean sandy loam, river sand, perlite, and other materials with good water retention and air permeability to make the sowing bed, with a thickness of no less than 40 cm, and water it thoroughly. Sow the prepared seeds into the bed at a spacing of 5 to 20°C cm, at a depth of about 3 cm. Then cover with river sand 3 cm thick. Control the amount of watering according to the dryness of the soil in the bed and the fine sand cover. After watering, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and warmth. Once a week, choose a sunny morning to uncover the film for ventilation. When the soil is dry, water to keep it moist, and cover the film again at sunset in the afternoon. Generally, cycad sand stratification takes 4 to 6 months. During this period, maintain the temperature and humidity of the sand stratification, with an optimum temperature of 18 to 25°C and relative humidity of 80 to 90%. Ensure winter insulation, not lower than 12°C. In May to June of the following year, the seeds germinate and break out of the shell, and in July to August they sprout and grow one true leaf. Propagation by division:
Propagation by division should be done in summer. Separate the suckers from the stem of the mother plant, insert them into open ground or a pot, and bury half in soil. The survival rate of propagation by division can reach 80 to 90%. Suckers grow slowly, so it is best to take suckers after 3 years to separate. Suckers with small wounds survive easily. The stem can also be cut into long sections of 15 to 20 cm and buried in sandy soil so that new buds form around the stem section, after which they are divided and cultivated separately. Cycads are suitable for growing under direct sunlight or bright scattered light. In summer, it is best to provide half shade, maintain the temperature at 15 to 20°C, keep soil and air humidity somewhat higher, and frequently mist the leaf cluster. This plant has no dormant period. In winter, the temperature should preferably be 12 to 16°C, and the plant has a considerable degree of cold resistance. From March to September, apply liquid fertilizer once a month. The growing medium is preferably a mixture of equal amounts of organic soil, peat, and fine sand. Change the potting soil every 2 to 3 years, adding new soil and base fertilizer to aid growth. In summer, liquid fertilizer can be applied several times, and ferrous sulfate solution can be added to make the leaf color even darker green. After autumn begins, reduce the amount of watering. Among cycad pests and diseases, scale insects are the most common on leaves. First, maintain good ventilation. After discovering scale insects, observe the hatching period and spray lime sulfur mixture or fluoroacetamide. Below is an introduction to cycad care knowledge:
1. Potting soil and repotting
Cycas revoluta is suitable for growing in fertile, slightly acidic sandy soil. Technical staff from Fujian Huibaichuan Horticulture introduce that the potting soil can be prepared with 1 part coarse sand and 2 parts garden soil, or 3 parts leaf mold and 1 part fine gravel, or 2 parts sandy soil and 1 part leaf mold, plus a small amount of 0.5% ferrous sulfate (used as a pH regulator). Cycas revoluta is a plant that likes iron, so when preparing potting soil, a small amount of iron filings can be mixed in, or in early spring iron filings can be placed on the pot soil or buried in the pot, so that iron gradually seeps in and is absorbed. A 0.5% ferrous sulfate solution can also be used to supplement iron, making the leaves firm and emerald green. Repotting is carried out in early spring before budding. Small pots are repotted once every 1 to 2 years, and large pots once every 3 to 4 years. When repotting, you can change the soil without changing the pot, or change both the soil and the pot. Generally, only after 2 to 3 years, when the seedling is somewhat larger, is it moved to a larger pot. When repotting, first tap the edge of the flowerpot with your hand, then hold the leaves with your hand and tip the pot sideways to take out the plant with the soil. Be careful not to break the leaves. Peel off the soil at the edge and upper part of the root ball, keep one-third of the old soil, and properly prune old roots, fibrous roots, and old leaves. Generally, no pruning is needed for leaves that remain emerald green and upright. Then place it in the pot, put new soil into the gaps, and press firm. More tile pieces should be placed at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage. After repotting, water thoroughly to settle the roots, wetting all the potting soil until water comes out from the bottom of the pot, and place it in a cool place on the balcony. After eight to ten days, move it into the sunlight.
2. Watering and fertilizing
When caring for Cycas revoluta, soil moisture should be kept at about 60%, and watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. According to technical guidance provided by Fujian Huibaichuan Horticulture, during the vigorous leaf growth period in spring and summer, especially in the hot and dry summer climate, more water should be given, once in the morning and once in the evening, and the leaf surface should be sprayed to keep the leaves fresh and emerald green. After autumn begins, water once every 2 to 5 days. During the growth period, apply compound fertilizer or urea once to twice a month. Urea is best applied as a foliar fertilizer by spraying the leaves with a 0.2% aqueous solution. Foliar fertilizer should follow the principle of “small meals, more often.” Apply peanut bran once each year in early spring. Peanut bran can be applied directly to the pot surface or buried in the potting soil without water fermentation. The rice-washing water from daily cooking at home, without any oil stains, can be collected in a bucket or basin and used the next day as liquid fertilizer for irrigation, and it has a certain fertilizing effect.
3. Pruning and placement
Cycas revoluta prefers a warm and humid climate, likes sunlight, and is also shade-tolerant. It grows relatively slowly, producing only 1 whorl of leaves each year. Only after the new leaves have expanded and matured should the old lower leaves be cut off, maintaining 2 to 3 whorls of leaves. It does not need frequent pruning. Even when transplanting into a pot or repotting, not much pruning is needed. When leaves are damaged by pests and diseases, or yellow and dry due to harsh natural conditions, they should be cut off in time. Different balcony orientations have different light intensity, which affects the growth of Cycas revoluta differently. A balcony facing south is most suitable for placing potted plants. Balconies facing north and east can also be used for potted plants. A balcony facing west gets strong afternoon sun in summer, which is hot and dry and easily causes leaf scorch and yellowing in cycads, so it is not suitable for placing potted plants. In hot and dry summer weather, wet the balcony floor several times a day to lower the temperature and increase air humidity. Cycas revoluta should not be placed in a living room or hall for too long; lacking light, the leaves become slender and lose their green color. In the cold and gloomy winter, it can be placed in the hall for a longer time, when the sun shines.
However, for home cultivation of cycads, we generally suggest it is better not to choose too large a plant. A medium pot with a diameter of 20 to 30 cm is usually chosen. Before planting the cycad, place coarse sand or crushed stone 2 cm thick at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. The potting soil is preferably mixed with 4 parts leaf mold, 3 parts garden soil, 1 part bone meal, 2 parts river sand, and 200 grams of rusty iron filings, using decomposed bean cake fertilizer as base fertilizer. After planting, water thoroughly and place in a cool place for half a month, then move it to a sunny, north-wind-sheltered place for care. Keep the potting soil moist often, but not overly wet. In April to May, water about once every 2 days. Cycads are not tolerant of waterlogging, so pay attention to timely drainage after rain. From June to August, growth is faster. At this time, temperatures rise and evaporation is high, so the amount of watering can be appropriately increased. Except on rainy days, water once a day. After September, control watering and follow the principle of “alternating dry and wet.” During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 15 to 20 days. Stop fertilizing after autumn begins.
Cycads like sunlight. In spring and autumn, during the seedling stage, it is best to keep them in a place with direct sunlight (but not exposed to scorching sun) for care. After the new leaves have grown, move them indoors for viewing. In winter, when the temperature is below 0 degrees, they should be moved indoors to overwinter. Indoor humidity should be kept at 5 to 10 degrees. In April of the following year, move them outside, and repot once every 2 to 3 years. During the growth of the cycad, when the main trunk reaches 40 to 50 cm in height and the new leaves have grown, the lower withered, weak, and yellow leaves should be cut off for one whorl, or this should be done at least once every two years, to keep the tree shape neat and full.
Under normal development, a cycad can produce 2 whorls of new leaves each spring. If the plant is found not to produce new leaves for 2 to 3 years, or the leaves turn yellow and dry up, check in time whether the root system is rotten. If there is root rot, remove the rotten parts, move it indoors and plant it in plain sand, control watering, and after some time it can recover and continue growing.
Potted cycads can be moved outside in April to May. When repotting every 2 to 3 years, replace with new soil. The potting soil is best as fertile, loose sandy loam. When repotting, place broken tile pieces and coarse gravel at the bottom of the pot to make a good drainage layer, and apply 2 to 3 pieces of horseshoe chips and cake fertilizer as base fertilizer. In the vigorous summer growth period, apply dilute decomposed cake fertilizer water once or twice a month. If “black alum water” (ferrous sulfate) is added to the top dressing, the leaf color can become dark green and glossy. Stop fertilizing after autumn begins.
For watering potted Cycas revoluta, for newly potted cycads, the potting soil should not be overly moist; keep the potting soil neither dry nor wet, maintaining appropriate dryness to avoid root rot. After the new leaves extend, appropriately increase the amount of watering. In summer, the vigorous growth season, it can be slightly more, watering once a day. After autumn begins, growth gradually slows, and attention should also be paid to controlling the amount of watering. In the rainy season, absolutely avoid water accumulation in the pot. After the new leaves have spread out, the withered, weak, and yellow leaves should be cut off to maintain the plant's graceful appearance.
Summary of techniques, methods, and precautions for cultivating and caring for potted cycads (experience edition)
When it comes to cycads, I believe everyone is familiar with them. The cycad is a common ornamental plant, often used for decorating gardens and courtyards, and is deeply loved by many flower enthusiasts. So, do you all know what home potted care methods there are for cycads? Today, the editor will introduce them to you in detail. Let's learn together.
1. Soil:Potted cycads are suitable for slightly acidic sandy soil with good drainage, loose texture, and fertility.
2. Temperature:Cycads prefer warmth. In high summer temperatures, water should be sprayed appropriately to lower the temperature. In winter, indoor room temperature should be kept at about 10°C. Because cycads grow relatively slowly, in summer they should avoid scorching sun exposure, otherwise it easily causes leaf scorch and yellowing. Cycads have relatively strong cold resistance, but when the winter temperature is 0°C, they should be moved indoors or to a warm place to overwinter.
3. Light:Cycads cannot be placed indoors for too long, because cycads like light. Although lack of light will not necessarily kill them, it will make their newly grown leaves sparse, thin and weak, and lose green color. Therefore, cycads need to be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight in all four seasons. Especially in spring and autumn when new leaves grow, they should be kept in direct sunlight for care. After the new leaves have grown and matured, move them indoors for viewing.
4. Watering:Cycads are relatively drought-tolerant and prefer dryness over wetness. Generally, water after the soil dries. If watered too much, it easily causes root rot and leaf damage. Generally, in winter water about once every 10 days, in spring and autumn once every 3 to 5 days, and in summer once in the morning and once in the evening. Watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. Long-term water accumulation and excessive wetness in the cycad pot soil will cause yellow leaves and root rot.
5. Fertilizing:During the growing season of cycads, top dressing should be applied frequently, mainly nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, preferably decomposed cake fertilizer water. Fertilizing should be done with dilute fertilizer applied frequently, and absolutely not too concentrated. To promote a dark green and glossy leaf color, an appropriate amount of ferrous sulfate solution can be added to the fertilizer. When fertilizing, pay attention to applying more vanadium fertilizer water. You can also place some rusty iron in the soil, or buy special cycad fertilizer from the flower market, which can make cycad leaves dark green and glossy and improve ornamental value.
6. Pruning:Cycads produce new leaves once or twice every year. When cultivating cycad bonsai, for a beautiful posture, the old leaves from the previous year and withered yellow leaves should be cut off. Overly dense or overly long leaves should also be pruned as appropriate to keep the tree shape symmetrical.
7. Repotting:Repot once every 2 to 3 years, preferably in spring from March to April. When repotting or changing pots, cut off dead and bad roots, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the old soil, and replace it with fertile, loose new soil, so that the plant grows vigorously. At the same time, pay attention to leaving space at the bottom of the pot to facilitate ventilation and drainage.
9. Pest and disease control:Cycads have hard trunks and tough leaves, so there are relatively few pests and diseases. The main possible infestation is by scale insects. When scale insects are found, they can first be killed by manual washing and brushing. If the infestation is severe, a 1% ferrous sulfate dilution can be used for irrigation. It is worth noting that potted cycads should be placed in a ventilated, well-lit, clean, and sanitary place, which can also effectively prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
The above is all the content I have learned about cycads today. I hope flower enthusiasts will find it helpful after reading this article. To learn more about cycads, please continue to follow Duorou Huapu, and we will provide you with more related knowledge!