How to propagate jasmine on a large scale? A detailed guide to the cutting method

The following are methods for propagating jasmine on a large scale

After jasmine blooms it generally does not set seed (setting seed is rare), so in production only asexual propagation can be used. The methods include cuttings, layering, division and several others. Jasmine has strong regenerative ability; using the cutting method, roots form quickly and the seedling success rate is high. Compared with the layering method and the division method, it has the advantages of being simple to perform and saving materials, and is therefore widely used.

Layering propagation: Layering propagation uses shoots sprouting from the lower part of the jasmine plant or branch tips of a certain length; a middle section is bent down into the soil so that it produces new roots, and after being cut away from the parent branch it becomes an independent new plant. The prerequisite is that there must be a parent jasmine tree, and each clump of parent trees can only have a few branches layered, which cannot meet the supply of large numbers of seedlings; it is generally used for potted plants and filling gaps in missing spots.

Division propagation: Jasmine is a clumping shrub, and the rhizome area can produce many adventitious roots. Plants more than two years old often have several stems and branches, and these rooted stems can be used for division propagation. The prerequisite for this method is that there must be parent jasmine trees more than two years old. Moreover, the number propagated is lower than with layering and cuttings, and it cannot meet the needs of large-scale cultivation.

Cutting propagation: Raising seedlings in a seedbed occupies little space and the land utilization rate is high; about 100,000 seedlings can be propagated per mu. Because the cuttings are concentrated in a nursery, management is convenient and there is ample room to select seedlings, so the seedling quality is high and growth is uniform. At the same time, it suits the requirements of large-scale seedling production, so it is widely used in production.

Spring has come, common knowledge for spring flower care

Spring has come, the earth warms again, and all things revive. So what kind of tricks are there for caring for these main spring flowers?

Entering March, the weather grows warmer day by day, and spring in the north gradually arrives. As the weather turns warmer, the flowers cultivated at home also shift from the dormant period to the budding growth period, and the plants that had been dormant for a winter begin to show vitality.

Spring is the best time to fertilize, prune and propagate potted flowers. Seizing this time for correct care can make them bloom abundantly and grow lushly throughout the year. Repotting and changing the soil is the best way to supplement fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. For varieties with strong cold resistance, such as five-needle pine, Chinese rose, pomegranate and chrysanthemum, once the Beginning of Spring passes, the buds begin to stir, so repotting and changing the soil can be done earlier. For winter jasmine, camellia, clivia and rhododendron, which bloom in early spring, do not be in too much of a hurry to repot; this can be done after the flowers fade.

In addition, plants such as Champaca, jasmine, epiphyllum, hibiscus, Aglaia and sago palm should be repotted and given new soil in April. When moving from a small pot to a larger pot, the old soil around the roots of the plant should be retained (commonly called "grandmother soil"). When repotting, prune away dead roots, rotten roots and overly dense roots, and mix decomposed organic fertilizer into the soil. Be careful not to let the roots come into direct contact with the fertilizer, to avoid burning them. In early spring, flowers and trees have just woken from dormancy and have not yet had time to absorb much fertilizer and water; too much fertilizer and water will damage the root system, so at this time fertilization should be as light and frequent as possible, and no single fertilization should be too much. Also do not fertilize newly repotted plants immediately; wait until new roots grow, then apply dilute fertilizer water. (Flower-viewing plants can be given fertilizer mainly of phosphorus before and after budding to make flower colors more vivid. Foliage plants can be given fertilizer mainly of nitrogen to make the leaves emerald green.)

By the same principle, in early spring flowers should not immediately be given too much water either; it is best to follow the rule of not watering when not dry, and watering thoroughly when watering. Later, as the temperature rises, gradually increase the fertilizer and water. Spring is especially a good time to prune flowers and trees. To keep the plants beautiful in shape and promote lush growth, at this time you can use the pruning shears freely and cut away excess branches. For example, Chinese rose, chrysanthemum, rhododendron, Boston ivy and rose should all have faded flowers and pedicels cut off in this season, to reduce nutrient consumption and increase sunlight exposure. In addition, the propagation of many flowers and trees is mostly done in spring. For example, rhododendron, jasmine, Chinese rose, hibiscus, geranium, crown of thorns, rose and rubber tree are propagated by cutting healthy branches for cuttings. Some other plants propagated by seed, such as mimosa, moss rose, large morning glory and cyclamen, can be sown in pots indoors for breeding. After sowing the seeds and watering, cover the mouth of the pot with plastic film and place it in the sun; after a period of time the flower buds will break through the soil.

Narcissus - add a tablet of aspirin

If the room temperature is below 7°C, you can add warm water in the morning and evening to force the flowers, or move it to a sunny place. If buds appear too early now, move it to a low-temperature place to control early blooming. When the flowers are in full bloom, add a little table salt to make the flowers last longer. However, while there are still flower buds waiting to open, table salt must not be added, lest it inhibit the buds from opening.

Tip: Put about one aspirin tablet into the water for growing narcissus, and it can make the narcissus stout and lush.

Lucky bamboo - change the water once a week

Lucky bamboo is an extremely shade-tolerant plant and still grows well, upright and strong, under weak light conditions. It can be placed indoors for a long time for its foliage and does not need special care; as long as there is enough water, it will grow vigorously. Therefore it is deeply favored by everyone. At a room temperature of 18-24°C, it can grow all year round. Below 13°C the plant goes dormant and stops growing. When the temperature is too low, because the root system absorbs insufficient water, yellow-brown patches will appear at the leaf tips and leaf edges. The minimum wintering temperature must be above 10°C. At present in winter, change the clear water about once a week as appropriate. During its growth and development it needs to continuously absorb mineral nutrients, so fertilization is necessary. For water culture, simply add a few grains of "multi-element compound fertilizer" when changing to fresh water.

Phalaenopsis - keep it moist

According to a staff member of Huiyuan Flowers at Nanshan Market, Phalaenopsis is considered good when the leaves are glossy, thick and plentiful and neatly arranged. Those with fresh roots and newly sprouted roots are the best. They are generally graded by the number of flowers.

In cultivation, Phalaenopsis must strictly guard against low temperatures. It likes warmth and moisture. During the Spring Festival it is best placed in a warm room, with attention to ventilation and keeping it moist.

Cymbidium - strictly guard against low temperatures

It is one of the fashionable Lunar New Year flowers this year. Among tropical orchids, its market price is the highest. In caring for Cymbidium, strictly guard against low temperatures. Its fleshy roots are quite developed and its ability to absorb water and fertilizer is strong, so it can be grown in a mix of leaf mold or fern root, charcoal scraps, broken bricks, etc. Its water demand is greater than that of other orchid species, so the leaf surface should be sprayed many times; only when the leaves are moist inside and out can yellow leaves be prevented.

Rhododendron - do not water when not dry, and water thoroughly when watering

Rhododendron likes acidic soil and cool warmth. Do not water when the soil is not dry, and water thoroughly when watering. It is best to let the water and the rhododendron stand in the same temperature place, and to irrigate with rainwater. However, during the flowering period it should not be watered much, to avoid bud drop and early fading. Usually a light application of thin fertilizer is enough.

Polyscias - pay attention to ventilation and avoid direct sun exposure

A complete guide to the basics of home flower growing

A complete guide to the basics of home flower growing

I. The benefits of growing flowers

With their gorgeous elegance, flowers decorate nature especially beautifully and give people enjoyment of beauty. Growing flowers can enrich and adjust people's cultural life, add pleasure, cultivate temperament and improve health; it can also increase scientific knowledge and raise cultural and artistic literacy. Growing flowers can green and beautify the land of the motherland, protect and improve the environment, purify the air, and enable people to work and study in a beautiful environment, making life more beautiful. Growing flowers is not only for appreciation, but also has many important economic values. Flowers are an important part of Chinese herbal medicine; honeysuckle, chrysanthemum, wintersweet, hibiscus, rhododendron and lotus are all common Chinese medicinal materials. Fragrant flowers have wide uses in food, light industry and other fields; for example, osmanthus can be used as a food spice and for brewing wine, jasmine, white orchid, bitter orange and chloranthus can be used to scent tea, chrysanthemum can be made into high-grade foods and dishes, and white orchid, jasmine, rose, wintersweet and narcissus can be used to extract essential oils.

II. "Three suitable" for growing flowers indoors

1. It is suitable to grow flowers with strong ability to absorb toxins. Some flowers can absorb certain concentrations of toxic gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen fluoride, formaldehyde and hydrogen chloride. According to research, wintersweet can absorb mercury vapor; pomegranate plants can absorb lead vapor in the air; snapdragon, canna, morning glory, gladiolus and dianthus can, through their leaves, convert highly toxic sulfur dioxide into non-toxic or low-toxicity sulfate compounds through oxidation; narcissus, four o'clock flower, chrysanthemum and saxifrage can convert nitrogen oxides into proteins in plant cells; spider plant, aloe and snake plant can absorb large amounts of indoor pollutants such as formaldehyde, eliminating and preventing indoor air pollution.

2. It is suitable to grow flowers that can secrete bactericides. The bactericides secreted by flowers such as jasmine, lilac, honeysuckle and morning glory can kill certain bacteria in the air, inhibit the occurrence of diphtheria, tuberculosis, dysentery pathogens and typhoid bacteria, and keep indoor air clean and hygienic.

3. It is suitable to grow flowers with "complementary" functions. Most flowers mainly carry out photosynthesis during the day, absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. At night they carry out respiration, absorbing oxygen and releasing carbon dioxide. Cacti are just the opposite: during the day they release carbon dioxide, and at night they absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen. Growing flowers with "complementary" functions in one room can not only allow the two to benefit each other, but also balance the indoor oxygen and carbon dioxide levels and keep indoor air fresh.

III. "Three avoidances" for growing flowers indoors

1. Avoid growing too many flowers that give off strong fragrance and pungent odors. For example, orchid, rose, Chinese rose, lily and night-blooming cereus can all give off rich fragrance. With one pot in the room, fragrance fills the air, but if too many fragrant flowers are placed indoors and the scent is too strong, it will excite people's nerves; especially if people smell it for a long time in the bedroom, it can cause insomnia. The gas given off by poinsettia and evergreen is not good for people; the particles given off by tulip and hydrangea can cause skin allergies and itching after long contact.

2. Avoid placing too many. At night most flowers release carbon dioxide and absorb oxygen, "competing for air" with people. And at night most rooms are closed, and the air does not circulate enough with the outside. If too many flowers are placed indoors, it will reduce the indoor oxygen concentration at night and affect the quality of sleep, such as chest tightness and frequent nightmares.

3. Avoid placing toxic flowers indoors. For example, oleander is toxic in its stems, leaves and even flowers in spring, summer and autumn; the milky white sap it secretes contains an oleandrin, and accidental ingestion can cause poisoning; the bulb of narcissus contains lycorine toxin; if a child accidentally eats it, it will cause symptoms such as vomiting, and the sap of the leaves and flowers can cause skin redness and swelling, and if the sap accidentally gets into the eyes, it will harm the eyes; too much contact with mimosa can easily cause sparse eyebrows and yellowing hair, and in serious cases cause hair loss.

Therefore, when growing and appreciating flowers, we should understand the relevant scientific knowledge, bringing health and happiness to ourselves and our families.

IV. "Six precepts" for home flower growing

Home flower growing is now increasingly common, but many flower-growing enthusiasts, because they do not grasp the essentials, grow flowers that are listless and lifeless. Where is the problem?

First precept: do not be careless. Flowers, like people, are living things and need careful care. Many flower growers lack the careful and diligent attitude they should have toward these beautiful lives. First, they are mentally lazy and do not like to study flower-growing knowledge, content to remain laymen for a long time, and their management is not methodical. Second, they are physically lazy and unwilling to spend too much time and energy on the flowers. After the flowers enter the home, they are left aside and ignored, enduring hunger and thirst for a long time and suffering from pests and diseases. In this way, even the best flowers will gradually wither. So lazy people cannot grow flowers well.

Second precept: do not love them too much. Contrary to the above situation, some flower growers love the flowers too much and their hands itch if they do not fiddle with them for a moment. Some water and fertilize without any rules, watering whenever they think of it, causing the flowers to die from excessive water or fertilizer; some casually move the flower pots around, moving them to several places a day, making the flowers have to constantly adapt to the environment and disrupting their normal growth patterns. If this continues over time, it would be strange if the flowers were not worn out to death. It is understandable to like a few suitable potted flowers at home, but flowers, like people, have their own growth patterns; if you frequently disturb them when they need rest, they will naturally feel tired and grow poorly.

Third precept: do not chase fame and profit. Some flower enthusiasts believe that growing flowers means growing famous flowers, because famous flowers have high ornamental value and large market profits. Dominated by this mentality, they spare no expense and seek out famous flowers and famous trees everywhere. As a result, often because of the lack of good care conditions and management techniques, the flowers die soon after purchase, which both mistreats the precious flowers and wastes money. This is a misconception. The correct approach should be to start with ordinary, lower-grade varieties and gradually explore the rules and techniques of flower growing. After reaching a certain technical level, then gradually purchase more precious varieties; only then is success more likely.

Fourth precept: do not fail to distinguish good from bad. Some flower growers are greedy for size and completeness and bring home whatever variety they see, which not only makes management more difficult, but also brings some unsuitable flowers into the home, polluting the environment and harming health. For example, flowers with toxic sap can easily cause poisoning when people come into contact with them. The smell of some flowers affects people's nervous system and can easily cause breathing difficulty or even allergic reactions. Plants with sharp thorns also pose a certain threat to human safety, and so on. In short, home flower growing should not be greedy for size and completeness or fail to distinguish good from bad; one should choose varieties with a smaller plant shape, an attractive appearance and no harm to people.

Fifth precept: do not keep changing your mind. Some flower growers are restless and have no theme in growing flowers; the flowers at home are changed as if on a merry-go-round. This is a great taboo in flower growing. First, changing varieties too quickly and growing them for too short a time is not conducive to cultivating flowers and trees with beautiful plant shape and high ornamental value. Second, stopping at a superficial level with every kind of flower is not conducive to raising one's flower-growing level, and in the end one is still a flower novice. Therefore, only by choosing one or two kinds of flowers and focusing on studying and cultivating them can a flower grower gain something in heart.

Sixth precept: do not have outdated ideas. Today, new knowledge and new technologies in the flower-growing industry emerge endlessly, but most flower growers still cling to traditional care methods and are not good at using new technologies and new equipment in the use of flower containers, water and fertilizer management, and seedling cultivation, such as soilless cultivation, odorless flower fertilizer and various flower containers. As a result, home flower growing is unhygienic, unattractive and not novel, with relatively large side effects.

V. The knowledge of buying flowers

Do not buy the following kinds of flowers:

1. Flowers just potted. When buying flowers, if you see that the soil in the pot is new and the stem moves when pulled upward, then this potted flower must have been potted not long ago and has not yet grown new roots. Such flowers are very easy to die after being bought. The reason is that some sellers, in pursuit of economic benefits, mix organic fertilizer that has not yet had time to decompose directly into the soil; once these fertilizers ferment, the flower's root system will be burned. Sometimes, to save labor or save time, they plant the flower roots without any sorting, and even hastily pot and market flowers and trees whose roots are too badly damaged to survive at all. If you accidentally buy such flowers, most will be difficult to keep alive.

2. Flowers with two or more plants planted together. Some sellers seize on buyers' preference for lush flowers and leaves, and plant two or more unsatisfactory flower seedlings together in a pot, passing off inferior goods as superior and selling them to inexperienced buyers for profit. After such flowers are bought, the branches and leaves that grow will become thinner, weaker and yellower day by day, and the flowers will bloom smaller and smaller. The reason is insufficient nutrition, and too many root hairs in the pot, which easily causes compaction, and may also cause root rot and death due to poor drainage and poor aeration. Of course, specially designed combination plantings are not included here. Flowers without a soil ball in summer or winter: in the hot summer, when the temperature is high, the leaves of flowers and trees evaporate quickly, and the root system of newly potted flowers and trees is more or less damaged, making it difficult to absorb water from the pot soil in a short time. Only by bringing the original soil ball can it safely pass through this transition period; otherwise it will first wilt and then slowly die. In winter, when the weather is cold, flowers and trees grow slowly, and some even enter dormancy. At this time, if you buy flowers and trees without a soil ball from the market and bring them home, once potted and watered, they may suffer freezing damage (especially the root system), ranging from hindered growth to death in severe cases. Even if they are not frozen, because the soil temperature is relatively low, it is very difficult for the flowers and trees to grow new root hairs, and the old roots cannot sprout for a long time, making them highly prone to rotting and necrosis. Areas along the Yangtze River and other areas without heating in winter should pay special attention.

3. Flowers with roots but no stems or leaves. Some individual peddlers dig up wild vines and miscellaneous tree roots in autumn and winter and pass them off as flowers and trees for sale. Because there are no stems or leaves, it is very difficult to identify them. To keep them moist, they wrap them with moss and give them some strange flower names, specifically deceiving inexperienced buyers. Some people covet a bargain, but after buying them, nine times out of ten they only grow leaves and do not bloom.

4. Flowers shown in pictures as being able to bloom in multiple colors. A small number of unscrupulous peddlers, in order to make profits, insert fake flowers of various colors into some plants that cannot bloom, then photograph them to make pictures and give them some foreign flower names, deceiving friends who are beginners at growing flowers. These flower peddlers who set up stalls on the ground move from place to place, and buyers who are cheated can hardly find them.

5. Flowers whose branches and leaves have been tied with fine wire into various shapes. In order to sell for a good price, flower and tree sellers deliberately tie all the branches and leaves of evergreen trees such as pines and cypresses with fine wire into various animal shapes, then take them to the market and sell them at high prices as bonsai. Such potted flowers look good at the time, but over time, as the plant grows, the shape will change. Moreover, tying all the branches and leaves of the plant at the same time not only affects photosynthesis, but also easily produces pests and diseases, which is very unfavorable to the growth of the plant.

6. Cactus flowers with small freeze spots on the stem or ball. In early spring, one often sees individual peddlers selling cactus-type flowers at low prices. Some buyers, without examining carefully, buy eight or ten at a time, and as a result no small number run into problems. The reason is that cacti that have overwintered are very prone to slight freeze damage, with light green freeze spots smaller than a grain of rice appearing on the stem and ball. On the surface there seems to be no problem, but in essence the internal tissues of the plant have already suffered major damage. If no measures are taken after such flowers are bought, the spots will grow larger and larger, the plant will gradually become semi-transparent, and finally the whole plant will necrose.

VI. Spring care for home potted flowers

The whole year's work depends on a good start in spring. The management and care of home potted flowers in spring is very important, and the following three aspects of work should be done well.

1. Propagate good seedlings. Chinese rose, geranium, pomegranate and winter jasmine can be propagated in spring by cutting healthy branches. Rhododendron and jasmine like acidic soil, so stout new branches 5-10 cm long can be cut, the lower leaves removed, and 3-4 top leaves kept for cuttings. For cuttings, black mountain soil, vermiculite or yellow sand can be used as the medium. The cuttings should be sprayed moderately to maintain a certain humidity, and they generally root after about 1 month. Orchid, agave and spider plant can be propagated in early spring by division or by runners respectively.

Spring-sown herbaceous plants grown from seed, such as asparagus fern, five-color pepper, mimosa, garden balsam, scarlet sage, morning glory and marigold, can be broadcast or sown in spots. Sowing method: first fill the pot with soil, press it slightly firm, then sow the seeds, and cover with fine soil. For watering after sowing, generally place the flower pot into a water basin and let the water slowly seep in from the bottom of the pot. Most germinate 1-3 weeks after sowing; after germination, move the pot to a sunny place. After the seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be pricked out and transplanted; when transplanting, be careful not to damage the roots or break the stems.

2. Repot and change the soil. This is a method of supplementing fertilizer for potted flowers in spring. Generally small pots are repotted once a year, and large pots once every 3-4 years; tall plants need to be moved to larger pots. Some whose root systems are too dense or have dead or rotten roots need appropriate pruning. After repotting, generally the first watering should be thorough, then the plant should be placed in a cool place; afterward, water when the pot soil is seen to be dry. Generally, after new roots grow, carry out normal watering and move the plant to a sunny place.

3. Pruning and trimming. This should be done according to different plants. Rhododendron and winter jasmine should not be pruned excessively; for pomegranate and Chinese rose, dead branches, damaged branches or overly dense branches can all be cut off in early spring to promote abundant flowers and lush leaves. Jasmine should have old leaves removed when repotted, to encourage it to sprout more new branches. Vine-like climbing plants such as Boston ivy, banksia rose, wisteria and rose can be trimmed so that the leaf surface receives as much sunlight as possible and grows vigorously.

Note that potted flowers in early spring should not be moved outdoors too early, lest they suffer freezing damage from cold air. Watering can be increased as the temperature rises, keeping dryness and moisture evenly balanced.

VII. Summer care for home potted flowers

1. Watering. In summer flowers have lush branches and leaves and consume a lot of water, so in summer flowers should be watered sufficiently every morning and evening.

2. Build a frame for shade. For all potted flowers, once summer comes, a frame must be built and reed curtains placed on it for shade, so that they safely pass through the severe heat of summer.

3. Pay attention to ventilation. For indoor flowers, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, pay attention to ventilation, open the windows, and let fresh air flow into the room to prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature.

4. Keep moisture and lower the temperature. In summer, some grass can be spread over the pot soil so that sunlight does not shine directly on the pot soil, thereby lowering the temperature of the pot soil and preventing the water in the pot soil from evaporating too quickly; a sprayer can also be used to moisten the leaves of the flowers, and at the same time wet the surroundings, lowering the temperature and increasing humidity. This is very good for some flowers that like coolness.

VIII. Autumn care for home potted flowers

1. Strengthen water and fertilizer management. After the Beginning of Autumn, the weather gradually turns cooler. For some foliage plants, such as asparagus fern, spider plant and sago palm, generally apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month to keep the leaves green and improve cold resistance; for chrysanthemum, camellia and rhododendron, which bloom once a year, apply liquid fertilizer mainly of phosphorus in time to ensure sufficient nutrients so that they bloom more and larger; for Chinese rose, Aglaia and jasmine, which bloom many times a year, supply enough fertilizer and water so that they bloom continuously; for some fruit-viewing flowers, such as kumquat, fingered citron and fruiting pomegranate, apply 1-2 times dilute liquid fertilizer mainly of phosphorus. As the temperature gradually decreases, apart from continuing normal watering for autumn-sown herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, winter or early spring, watering frequency should be reduced for other flowers, following the rule of not watering when the pot soil is not dry, so as to avoid excessive water and fertilizer causing excessive growth of branches and leaves and affecting flower bud differentiation and causing freezing damage.

2. Carry out autumn sowing and autumn cuttings in time. In autumn, promptly harvest ripe flower and tree seeds, and promptly sow tulip, gloxinia and snapdragon, especially seeds that easily lose germination ability, which should be sown promptly in autumn; and combine with pruning to take cuttings of flowers and trees. For example, cuttings of Chinese rose, rose and rose species have a relatively high survival rate.

IX. Winter care for home potted flowers

Different kinds of flowers each have different growth habits, and different management measures should be taken to ensure they safely overwinter.

1. Overwintering of deciduous woody flowers: Most deciduous woody flowers originate in temperate regions. Common ones include pomegranate, honeysuckle, Chinese rose, ornamental peach and winter jasmine. They are generally dormant in winter, so a room temperature of about 5°C is enough. If there is a balcony or small courtyard, cold-hardy potted Chinese rose, ornamental peach, pomegranate and honeysuckle can be placed together in a wind-sheltered spot on the balcony or in a corner of the courtyard and wrapped and covered with plastic film, and they can safely overwinter.

2. Overwintering of evergreen woody flowers: such as oleander, kumquat and osmanthus, which are in semi-dormancy, with the temperature generally controlled above 0°C, they can safely pass the severe winter. For Aglaia, jasmine, hibiscus and gardenia, they should be placed in a place with sufficient sunlight. The indoor temperature should be kept at about 15°C; if the temperature is too low, it will cause the flowers to die.

3. Overwintering of annual and biennial herbaceous flowers: such as Chinese primrose, coleus and calceolaria, with the room temperature kept between 5°C and 15°C, they can grow normally. For perennial herbaceous flowers such as asparagus fern, garden balsam, geranium and wax begonia, keeping sufficient sunlight and a room temperature of 10°C-20°C will allow them to grow well. For herbaceous flowers that are dormant in winter, such as clivia and oncidium, maintaining a room temperature of about 5°C and giving an appropriate amount of light is enough; light should not exceed 8-10 hours per day, and at the same time strengthen fertilizer and water management, and they will bloom after two months.

X. Several small tips for growing flowers

1. How to judge whether potted flowers lack water

(1) Tapping method: Gently tap the upper-middle part of the pot wall with the knuckle of a finger. If a relatively crisp sound is made, it means the pot soil is already dry and water should be given immediately; if a dull, muddy sound is made, it means the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily postponed.

(2) Visual method: Observe with the eyes whether the color of the pot soil surface has changed. If the color becomes lighter or light grayish white, it means the pot soil is already dry and needs watering; if the color becomes darker or dark brown, it means the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily postponed.

(3) Finger test method: Gently insert a finger about 2 cm deep into the pot soil and feel the soil. If it feels dry, or rough and hard, it means the pot soil is already dry and water should be given immediately; if it feels slightly moist, fine and soft, it means the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily postponed.

(4) Pinching and twisting method: Pinch and twist some pot soil with the fingers. If the soil becomes powder, it means the pot soil is already dry and water should be given immediately; if the soil forms flakes or granules, it means the pot soil is moist and watering can be temporarily postponed. The above methods are all based on experience, and they can only tell people the approximate dry or wet condition of the pot soil. If you need to know the dry and wet degree of the pot soil accurately, you can buy a soil moisture meter and insert it into the soil; then you can see words such as "dry" or "moist" on the scale, and you can know exactly when to water.

2. What is particular about the water used for watering flowers

The water for watering flowers is best river water, pond water or rainwater that is neutral or slightly acidic. Rainwater is best for watering flowers, because rainwater contains more natural minerals. Next is river water and pond water. As the flower proverb says: "River water is rich and pond water is strong; flowers are abundant, leaves are lush and the blooms are fragrant." In particular, greenish pond water has many nutrients and is a relatively ideal water for watering flowers. In cities, tap water is mostly used for watering flowers. But tap water has a relatively high content of bleaching powder and chemicals, so it should be stored for one or two days before use. In addition, if a few tablets of vitamin C are put into tap water, the chlorine in the water can be eliminated; generally add one tablet per pot of water and let it stand for half a day before watering the flowers.

As the flower proverb says: "When southern flowers move north, add alum to the watering water"; "For southern flowers grown at home in the north, fish tank water is relatively good for watering"; "Fish water is rich and rice water is strong; they are most suitable for watering potted flowers." Whether in cold winter or midsummer, do not water flowers with cold water. When the temperature is below 10°C, you can add some appropriate hot water to the water, keeping the water temperature as close as possible to the soil temperature, to create a microclimate suitable for flower growth.

3. Homemade fertilizer

In daily life, many waste materials can be used to make fertilizer.

(1) Soaking liquid fertilizer: Use a small vat (or small jar) to put in waste vegetable leaves, melon and fruit peels, chicken and fish offal, fish scales, waste bones, eggshells and moldy food (peanuts, melon seeds, beans, bean powder --), etc., add water and sprinkle a little trichlorfon, then cover tightly; after high-temperature fermentation and decomposition it can be used. When using, take the supernatant liquid, add water to dilute it, and then try it. The above waste materials can also be mixed with some old potting soil, add some water, put into a large plastic bag, tie it tightly and leave it for a period of time, and use after fermentation.

(2) Waste composting: Choose a suitable place and dig a soil pit 60-80 cm deep, line it with 10 cm of furnace ash, put rotten vegetable leaves, poultry and livestock innards, fish scales, chicken and duck manure, eggshells, meat waste and broken bones, etc. into the pit, sprinkle some insecticide, cover the top with a layer of garden soil about 10 cm thick, and keep the pit moist to promote fertilizer decomposition. It is best to compost in autumn and winter; after the temperature rises in spring and it is decomposed with no foul odor, it can be mixed into potting soil as base fertilizer; a 4 mm sieve can also be used to sieve it while wet and rub it into granules, with the fine part used as topdressing and the coarse part as base fertilizer. When composting, some orange peel or diluted rice vinegar can be added to reduce the odor.

4. Skillful fertilization for home flower growing

(1) Fertilize at the right time. Fertilizing at the right time means applying fertilizer when the flowers need it. When flower leaves are found to become lighter or yellow and the plant grows thin and weak, this is the most suitable time for fertilization. In addition, when flower seedlings sprout leaves and branches unfold leaves, topdressing should be applied to meet the seedlings' demand for fertilizer during rapid growth. Different growth stages of flowers also have different fertilizer needs. The type and amount of fertilizer applied also differ. For example, applying more nitrogen fertilizer at the seedling stage can promote seedling growth, and applying phosphorus fertilizer at the flower bud stage can promote larger and more vivid flowers and a longer flowering period.

(2) Fertilize in appropriate amounts. Fertilizing potted flowers should follow "eat small meals often", that is, fertilize frequently but with a small amount each time. Generally apply dilute fertilizer water once every 7-10 days, and once every 15-20 days after the Beginning of Autumn. As the flowers and trees gradually grow, the fertilizer concentration gradually increases; for example, the urea application concentration gradually increases from 0.2% in the early period to 1.0%; phosphorus and potassium fertilizer increases from 1.0% to 3.0-4.0%.

(3) Master fertilization according to the season. In spring and summer flowers grow fast and vigorously, so an appropriate amount of more fertilizer can be applied. After autumn begins, the temperature gradually decreases and the growth of flowers weakens, so less fertilizer should be applied. From late August to early September, fertilization should be stopped to prevent a second growth peak; otherwise it easily makes the flower tissue cells tender and makes overwintering difficult. For overwintering flowers, fertilization should be stopped during the dormant winter period.

(4) Fertilization should take temperature into account. Potted flowers should not be fertilized around noon at high temperatures or on rainy days; fertilizing at this time easily damages the roots, so it is best to fertilize in the evening. After autumn and in winter when the temperature is low, flowers grow slowly and generally are not fertilized; in summer when the temperature is high, flowers grow vigorously and more fertilizer should be applied. When the temperature is high, the topdressing concentration should be low and the amount should be small; when applying dilute fertilizer water as topdressing, apply it more times.

(5) Mixed application of medicine and fertilizer. If pests or diseases occur during fertilization, an appropriate amount of medicine can be added to the fertilizer liquid, which can play the dual role of fertilizing and preventing pests and diseases.

XI. Points for attention

1. Why home flower growing can result in death

(1) Too much fertilizer. Some people love their flowers so much that, considering that potted flowers consume a lot of nutrients during the flowering period, they apply large amounts of chemical fertilizer, causing the concentration to be too high; in mild cases this affects the root hairs' absorption of water, and in severe cases it causes the plant to die.

(2) Too much undecomposed organic fertilizer applied. Because organic fertilizer has a large amount of microbial activity when decomposing in the soil, it causes soil oxygen deficiency and the roots suffocate to death. On the other hand, organic fertilizer fermentation produces substances such as alcohol and lactic acid that are toxic to the root system, and fermentation releases a large amount of heat, raising the temperature and causing the phenomenon of "burning roots."

(3) No place to grow flowers. People often put potted flowers on an enclosed balcony facing east or west. In this way, because of the radiant heat of the sun, the temperature inside the balcony rises sharply, forming a hot and dry environment. Hot, dry and unventilated conditions also make red spider mite damage likely, accelerating the death of the flowers.

(4) Overwintering flowers suddenly taken out of the room. Flowers that overwinter indoors grow leaves that belong to semi-shade leaves or shade leaves. If suddenly taken out of the room in early spring, the shade leaves cannot adapt, and the tender leaves and tender buds are easily sunburned by sunlight; added to the large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors, this easily causes fatal damage to the flowers.

(5) Lack of sunlight. Some people, for convenience of appreciation, place flowers on indoor tables far from sunlight, causing their photosynthesis to be inhibited; the organic nutrients in the flower body can only be consumed and cannot be replenished in time, reducing the flowers' resistance and causing the plant to weaken and die. Watering too much and too frequently is also a cause of plant death.

2. Harmful flowers and trees

(1) Flowers not suitable for long-term indoor placement: Pine and cypress plants, if placed indoors in relatively large numbers, give off a relatively strong pine resin smell, affecting people's appetite and making pregnant women feel nauseous; geranium can cause allergic reactions in some people; tulip flowers contain toxic alkaloids, and after long contact they can make people dizzy and confused and can cause hair loss; night-blooming cereus, when it stops photosynthesis at night, discharges a large amount of waste gas, which can make patients with high blood pressure and heart disease feel depressed; if Syringa oblata is placed indoors for a long time, the peculiar smell it gives off can cause asthma and restlessness in some people; the smell given off by elderberry can also make people nauseous and dizzy. Therefore, the above flowers should not be placed indoors for too long.

(2) Toxic flowers: Yellow rhododendron contains toxins in both the plant and the flowers; accidental ingestion will cause poisoning. Poinsettia is toxic in the whole plant; the white sap can irritate the skin and cause redness and swelling, and accidental ingestion of the stems and leaves carries the risk of poisoning and death. Oleander: branches, leaves and bark all contain toxins; accidental ingestion of even a few grams of dry matter can cause poisoning. The pencil cactus is a succulent plant; the white sap flowing out after its stem is broken can cause skin redness and swelling, and if it gets into the eyes it can cause blindness. Lantana: flowers and leaves are toxic; accidental ingestion can cause diarrhea and fever. Narcissus: the bulb contains lycorine; accidental ingestion can cause enteritis and vomiting, and the sap of the flowers and leaves can cause skin redness and swelling. Lycoris radiata: the bulb contains toxic substances such as lycorine; after human skin comes into contact with lycorine it causes redness, swelling and itching; inhaling lycorine into the respiratory tract causes nosebleeds, and accidental ingestion causes vomiting, diarrhea, cold hands and feet, and shock, and in severe cases death from central nervous system paralysis. Mimosa: the body contains mimosine; excessive contact can cause hair loss and sparse eyebrows. Crown of thorns and Euphorbia neriifolia: the white milky sap in the stem is toxic, and neither may enter the eyes. Dieffenbachia: flowers and leaves contain oxalic acid and asparagine; accidental ingestion causes swelling and pain in the mouth, throat, esophagus and stomach and intestines, and can even damage the vocal cords and make a person mute. Cactus-type plants: the spines contain toxic sap; after a person is pricked, allergic symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, pain and itching are easily caused. Coral bean: the whole plant is toxic, and children should be taught not to eat its red fruits.

   3  How to deal with rot in cactus-type plants

When the stems and leaves of potted cactus-type plants turn from green to gray, the edges turn yellow, the base becomes soft, and even the root stem rots, the general cause is too much watering, or after the plum rain season the cactus-type plants are placed in a dark, damp and poorly ventilated place. This causes the pot soil to become saturated with water and severely oxygen-deficient, so that the normal activities of aerobic microorganisms in the soil that decompose organic matter, such as ammonifying bacteria, nitrifying bacteria and sulfur bacteria, are hindered and cannot effectively decompose the organic matter in the soil, so that the cactus-type plants show symptoms such as yellowing and wilting because they cannot obtain various mineral nutrients from the soil. Inexperienced growers often mistakenly think it is caused by lack of water in the plant, and therefore water continuously, thus causing root rot, stem rot and even death. When the soil is too wet and too acidic and the above situation occurs, effective measures must be taken to rescue them. In particular, when the weather suddenly clears after long rain, cactus-type plants should not immediately be put under the scorching sun; they should be placed in a cool, ventilated place for 1-2 days before being exposed to sunlight again, allowing them to recover slowly. If rashly exposed to the sun, because the water-absorbing capacity of the plant's root system is poor, even though the pot soil is relatively wet, the stems and leaves will still wilt.

If root rot or stem rot occurs, the pot should be repotted and the soil changed, the rotten roots cut off, and disinfection carried out with powdered slaked lime (such as old wall lime); after drying, repot. If the roots are good and only a small amount of the stem is rotten, a surgical method can be adopted: use a sterilized sharp knife to completely cut off the rotten part, then apply slaked lime to make the cut dry quickly, and the stem will no longer rot.

While carrying out technical treatment, part of the pot soil can be dug out and the pot placed on a ventilated windowsill or balcony to give it as much ventilation as possible. Because the pot soil is ventilated and dry, the normal growth of cactus-type plants can be restored as quickly as possible.