Detailed Explanation of Key Points for Controlling Common Pests and Diseases of the Flamboyant Tree
The flamboyant tree (Delonix regia) is a tall plant with a beautiful tree shape; its crown spreads horizontally and droops, dense, broad and wind-catching. It is drought-tolerant and tolerant of poor soil, but not cold-tolerant, preferring high temperatures, and can only grow luxuriantly in full sunlight. It begins to bloom after 6-8 years of planting.
The flamboyant tree (Delonix regia) is a tall plant with a beautiful tree shape; its crown spreads horizontally and droops, dense, broad and wind-catching. It is drought-tolerant and tolerant of poor soil, but not cold-tolerant, preferring high temperatures, and can only grow luxuriantly in full sunlight. It begins to bloom after 6-8 years of planting, with brilliantly colored flowers. In South China, winter buds sprout in early February each year, with the growth peak from April to July. In late July, due to excessively high temperatures, growth decreases; after mid-to-late August, as temperatures drop, growth accelerates; after October, growth slows; from December to January of the following year, it sheds its leaves. It is a common landscape greening tree species.
Flamboyant Tree
Common pests of the flamboyant tree include noctuid moths and geometer moths. When the flamboyant tree grows well and blooms abundantly, it also favors the growth and reproduction of pests such as noctuid moths.
1. Noctuid Moths
These insects damage plants by having their larvae feed on leaves, often stripping host leaves completely, seriously affecting tree growth and ornamental value.
Control Methods:
Forestry control: For noctuid moths on flamboyant trees, strip-mixed afforestation can be adopted when planting in large contiguous areas. Graft in a timely manner, and carefully carry out post-grafting management such as loosening ties and removing rootstock shoots, to suppress the reproduction of this pest.
Manual control: Manually crush the larvae of noctuid moths in nursery beds. In addition, most adult insects of the Noctuidae family are phototactic, so light traps can be used to kill them.
Biological control: Protect and utilize their natural enemies, such as ants, ladybugs, hornets, wasps, tachinid flies, lacewings, beneficial birds, bats, and other natural enemies in nurseries and woodlands, all of which must be protected and utilized.
Chemical control:
(1). For young larvae, spray 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000x dilution, or 50% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1500x dilution, or 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate, or malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 800-1000x dilution, or 75% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate, or 50% parathion emulsifiable concentrate at 2000x dilution, or 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate, or 50% methamidophos emulsifiable concentrate at 500-1000x dilution, or 25% carbaryl wettable powder at 1500x dilution, or 2.5% deltamethrin, or 20% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 3000-5000x dilution, or 10% cypermethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 150-300 ml per hectare, or diflubenzuron No. 3 20% gel suspension at 2000-3000x dilution.
(2). For larvae that have already bored into the shoot tips, use 50% monocrotophos emulsifiable concentrate, or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 10x dilution for trunk injection, or apply 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate, or 50% naled emulsifiable concentrate at 40x dilution to the damaged areas.
2. Geometer Moths
Their larvae feed on and damage the leaves and tender buds of the flamboyant tree.
Control Methods
Technical control: During landscape design, pay attention to increasing plant diversity to form a multi-layered structure of trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants; artificially build nests to attract beneficial birds; strengthen fertilizer and water management and carry out reasonable pruning to reduce damage. From September to the end of April of the following year, deep plow to destroy pupae; routinely manually remove egg masses from bark crevices; take advantage of the adults' death-feigning behavior to manually swat adults in the early morning.
Manual control: Use frequency-vibration insecticidal lamps to trap and kill adults.
Biological control: Protect their natural enemies. Apply nuclear polyhedrosis virus wettable powder at 100 g per mu diluted in 50 kg of water, sprayed at the peak of the 1st-2nd instar larvae of the first generation, or spray with Bt emulsion at 300-500x dilution.
Chemical control: At the young larval stage, when the infestation rate is less than 5%, spray with 25% diflubenzuron No. 3 suspension concentrate at 1500x dilution, or 50% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate at 1000x dilution.
In addition to the above two pests, the flamboyant tree is also susceptible to root rot.
Root Rot
The pathogen of root rot is Ganoderma lucidum, and its main transmission route is through spores spread by soil, water, or wind.
Root rot, as the name suggests, attacks the roots of the flamboyant tree, causing its roots to rot and die. This disease causes serious damage to flamboyant street trees in southern and central areas, especially those over ten years old, which are most vulnerable.
In the early stage of root rot in the flamboyant tree, the tree grows slowly, showing a sparse crown and yellowing. By the disease stage, the growth of the flamboyant tree nearly comes to a standstill, with leaves falling off in large numbers and the crown becoming even more noticeably sparse. At this time, white mycelium or reddish-brown fruiting bodies can often be found growing at the base of the diseased tree or on roots exposed at the soil surface. From fine roots to thick roots, the surface of the diseased roots is covered with mycelium, appearing spider-web-like, fan-shaped, or felt-like, with the tissue decaying and mycelium also growing in the wood tissue. In the late stage of root rot, the sapling will wilt and die, and many fruiting bodies grow from the roots at the base.
Control Methods
1. Cut down diseased flamboyant trees, dig out the roots and fruiting bodies, and burn them in a centralized manner, and disinfect the soil to reduce sources of infection.
2. Dig trenches to block the spread and effectively prevent the disease from spreading.
3. Spray with 75% quintozene wettable powder at 750x dilution.
Detailed Introduction to Rose (Rosa chinensis) Cultivation
The rose (Rosa chinensis) is a thorny shrub, or appears vine-like or climbing. It is an evergreen or deciduous shrub, upright, with brown stems bearing hooked prickles or no prickles, and some are almost thornless. Branchlets are green; leaves are dark green, mostly pinnately compound, broadly ovate or ovate-oblong, 2.5-6 cm long, with acuminate tips and sharp teeth, serrated margins, hairless and smooth on both sides; stipules are fused with the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, with the apex separating into ear-like lobes. Flowers are often clustered, rarely solitary, with many colors and varying shades, 4-5 cm in diameter, mostly double, though some are single; sepals are tail-like with long pointed tips and edges bearing pinnate lobes; styles are separate, extending beyond the mouth of the sepal tube, equal in length to the stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. The fruit is ovoid or pear-shaped, 1-2 cm long, with the sepals falling off. The flowering period is from April to October. Most are complete flowers. They are bisexual flowers.Origin
Plants of the Rosaceae family originated in the Northern Hemisphere, found almost throughout Asia and Europe. China is one of the places of origin of the rose (Rosa chinensis). As for modern roses, their blood relationships are extremely complex.
The rose is also the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin, Dalian, Nanyang, Nanchang, Changzhi, Yuncheng, Changzhou, Anqing, Suzhou, Yichang, Zhengzhou, Bengbu, Ji'an, Shangqiu, Jiaozuo, Pingdingshan, Huai'an, Taizhou, Fuyang, Zhumadian, Sanmenxia, Hengyang, Yingtan, Huainan, Huaibei, Qingdao, Weifang, Jiaonan City, Wuhu, Shijiazhuang, Handan, Xingtai, Cangzhou, Langfang, Shangqiu, Luohe, Deyang City, Huaiyang County, Xinyang and other cities.
Morphological Characteristics The rose (Rosa chinensis) is an evergreen or deciduous shrub with green branchlets and scattered prickles, though some are almost thornless. 5, alternate, odd (singular) pinnately compound leaves, with leaflets generally 3-5, elliptical or ovate, 2-6 cm long, with serrated margins, hairless and smooth on both sides, and stipules fused with the petiole. Flowers are borne at the tips of branches, often clustered, rarely solitary, with many colors. There are thousands of varieties, mostly double but some single; flowers have a slight fragrance; the flowering period is from April to October, with the most blooms in spring. The fleshy rose hip, when mature, turns red-yellow and splits open at the top; the “seed” is an achene, chestnut brown.
Growth Habits
It has strong adaptability, is cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, and is not demanding about soil, but the best is a slightly acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter with good drainage. It prefers light, but too much intense direct sunlight is unfavorable for flower bud development, and petals are prone to scorching. It prefers warmth, with a general temperature of 22-25°C being most suitable; high summer temperatures are unfavorable for flowering.
It prefers an environment with ample sunlight, good air circulation, good drainage, and shelter from wind, and requires appropriate shading in midsummer. For most varieties, the optimum temperature is 15-26°C during the day and 10-15°C at night. It is relatively cold-tolerant, and enters dormancy when winter temperatures fall below 5°C. If summer high temperatures persist above 30°C, most varieties bloom less, quality declines, and they enter a semi-dormant state. Generally, varieties can tolerate low temperatures of -15°C. It requires fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter, but its range of soil adaptability is fairly wide. The relative air humidity should preferably be 75%-80%, though slightly drier or slightly more humid conditions are also acceptable. It has the characteristic of continuous blooming. It needs to maintain air circulation and be free of pollution; if ventilation is poor, powdery mildew is likely to occur. Harmful gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine, and fluorides, are all toxic to roses.
Main Types
The main types of roses (Rosa chinensis) include edible roses, climbing roses (CI series), large-flowered hybrid tea roses (cut roses) (HT series), floribunda roses (polyantha roses) (F/FI series), miniature roses (Min series), tree roses, grandiflora roses (Gr series), shrub roses (sh series), and groundcover roses (Gc series), etc.
Edible Roses
Damask rose has a pure rose fragrance and high oil yield; after drying and processing, it can be made into rose-scented tea (it can also be used to scent tea), and among many edible, medicinal, health-promoting, and beauty-enhancing flower varieties, it is the best.
Large-Flowered Hybrid Tea Roses (HT Series)
There are many varieties, and they form the main body of modern roses. Their characteristics are: robust plants, single or clustered flowers, large blooms, elegant and beautiful flower shapes, numerous colors that are bright and vivid, fragrant scent, and strong ornamental value.
Climbing Roses (CI Series)
A new star in landscaping - climbing roses, with a climbing growth habit, well-developed root systems, extremely strong resistance, rapid shoot sprouting, and vigorous growth. A single plant sprouts 7-8 main branches per year, and each main branch further produces open branching. Annual maximum growth can reach 5 m, with very strong disease resistance. They are low-maintenance, tolerant of pruning, rich in flower forms, and bloom continuously through all four seasons (some are once-blooming or twice-blooming types), with brilliant, unrestrained colors, long flowering periods, and intense fragrance. Flower colors include vermilion, bright red, vivid red, pink, golden yellow, orange-yellow, bicolor, and pure white, etc. They sprout from the nodes in the second year and bloom all over the plant, with numerous flower heads, and can form landscapes such as flower balls, flower columns, flower walls, seas of flowers, flower waterfalls, arch shapes, and corridor shapes.
Floribunda Roses (F/FI Series)
Floribunda roses have an expansive growth habit, with flower heads borne in clusters. They are cold-tolerant, heat-tolerant, drought-resistant, waterlogging-resistant, and disease-resistant, with extremely strong adaptability to the environment. They are widely used in urban environmental greening, laying out garden flower beds, highways, and more.
Miniature Roses (Min Series)
A new variety in the rose family, with a short, spherical plant type and numerous flower heads. Because of their unique character, they are also called "diamond roses." They are mainly used for potted ornamental display, embellishing lawns, and arranging color patterns.
Tree Roses
Tree roses, also called rose trees or standard roses, achieve a standard upright trunk and crown through grafting two or more times. Current tree rose specifications (height 0.4-2.0 m, trunk diameter 1-5 cm).
Advantages: Good ornamental effect, unique shape, noble and elegant, with clear layers, making a refreshing impression visually; diverse forms, including round-ball type, fan-shaped type, waterfall type, miniature type, etc.; they retain the advantages of general roses such as strong fragrance, long flowering period, and diverse colors, while appearing more novel, more noble, and more passionate, thus having higher aesthetic value.
Wide greening uses: In ring roads, parks, scenic areas, residential courtyards, and all places with green space, tree roses can play a finishing touch in beautification.
Strong adaptability: The flower crown of tree roses is farther from the ground than that of ordinary flowers, making them less likely to be infected by soil-borne pests and diseases; the trunk is derived from Rosa multiflora, with well-developed roots and extremely strong vitality. Especially in areas with relatively high alkalinity, where planting ordinary roses is difficult, tree roses fill the gap.
Groundcover Roses (Gc Series)
The latest ecological vegetation flower - groundcover roses. Their growth characteristics are: 1. Creeping and expansive type, height not exceeding 20 cm. Each plant produces more than 50 branches per year, branches root upon touching the ground, and each branch blooms 50-100 flowers at a time; 2. Well-developed root system, with the deepest roots reaching more than 2 m; 3. Large coverage area, with a single plant covering more than 1 sq m; 4. Strong flowering in groups, with continuous flowering throughout the four seasons.
Their biological habits are: 1. Drought-tolerant, able to grow in areas with annual rainfall of 150-200 mm; 2. Tolerant of poor soil, able to be planted and grow on slopes, in dense shade, and in areas where irrigation is difficult; 3. Tolerant of high temperature and high humidity - able to grow normally at low temperatures of -30°C and high temperatures of 42°C; 4. Low-maintenance, strong disease resistance, no need for pesticide application or pruning, reducing a large amount of management costs; 5. Remarkable effect in arranging color blocks and roadside strips, with advantages such as beautifying the environment while reducing noise and absorbing heat; it is an excellent choice for water conservation and preventing soil erosion. (It has also been successfully introduced and cultivated in Korla, Altay, and other places in **, as well as Jilin City and Harbin City in Northeast China).
Common large-flowered hybrid tea rose (HT series) varieties in different colors include:
1. White: including Tingwaldt, Kennedy (classic variety), Wedding White, First White, White Satin, Green Cloud, Titanic (classic variety), White Christmas (classic variety), White Wine, etc.
2. Yellow: including Golden Phoenix, Ohio Gold, Gold Medal, Rhine Gold, Gold Medal, Solido, Green Field, Princess Cantor, etc.
3. Red: including Crimson Fan, Super Star (classic variety), Mélanie Rouge, Carte d'Or, Han Qian, Rose Center, Member of Budapest, Fragrant Magic, Olympic Games, Fragrant Cloud, etc.
4. Blue: including Blue Moon (classic variety), Blue Peace, Blue Sapphire, Blue Ribbon, Jacaranda, Blue Perfume (classic variety), Paradise, etc.
5. Black-red: including Mister Lincoln (classic variety, one of the 10 most fragrant rose varieties, a representative variety of large-flowered hybrid tea roses, rose
rose judging standard flower Mister Lincoln judging standard flower), Warrior, Grand Purple Light, Black Whirlwind, Motley Rock, Black Pearl, Vermilion and Ink Double Radiance, etc.
6. Green: including Green Star, Green Sepal.
7. Orange: including Jesta Joey, Kuntley, Golden Bull, Machina, Grand Medal, etc.
8. Pink: including Pink Fan, Pink Peace, First-Class Lady, Japanese Pink, Drunken Fragrant Wine, Chuck Red, Tang Red, etc.
9. Bicolor: including Peace (classic variety), Fire Peace, Double Delight (classic variety, first among the 10 most fragrant rose varieties), Greek Homeland (Greek Fragrance) (classic variety), Mélanie Caprice, Love, My Choice, Light of Peace, Chicoco, Modern Art, Princess of Monaco, Colorful Cloud, Garibaldi, Float, etc.
Common climbing rose (climbing rose CI series) varieties in different colors include:
1. Red series: Imperial Carriage, Dushutai, Uncle Walter (classic variety), Orange-Red Flame, Vermilion Queen, Chang'e Flying to the Moon, Summer Camp, Mozart, etc.
2. Yellow series: Spectrum (classic variety), Jubilation, Long Rainbow, Golden Sunshine, King of Light, etc.
3. Pink series: Blue Moon, Parade, Angela, etc.
4. White series: White River, Climbing Green Cloud.
5. Bicolor series: Eden Rose (classic variety), Flower Fairy, Flying Tiger, Flower Soul, Climbing Electronic Watch, Climbing Purple Robe Jade Belt (classic variety), etc.
6. Orange series: Kunteng, Western Earth, Sweet Dream, Stream, etc.
Common groundcover rose varieties include (Gc series):
Bassino, Groundcover No. 1, Harford Jun, Rose Carpet, Kent, New Olympics, etc.
Cultivation Techniques
Propagation: Most use the cutting propagation method, but division and layering propagation can also be used. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are preferable; for greenwood cuttings in summer, attention must be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise, rooting is difficult. Winter cuttings are generally carried out in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel; if cutting in the open field, attention must be paid to adding moisture-retention measures. For those propagated by sowing, it is used for sexual hybrid breeding. For a few famous varieties that are difficult to root, grafting propagation is used, and the rootstock is preferably wild rose (Rosa multiflora). Such as yellow-series varieties.
Management: Rose transplanting is carried out between November and March of the following year. Pruning can be done at the same time as transplanting. First cut out dense branches and dead branches, then cut out old and weak branches, leaving 2-3 outward-growing buds so they can spread in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth of weak branches. In summer, when new branches grow too densely, thinning pruning should be carried out. After each batch of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the faded flower so it does not set seed and consume nutrients, while retaining the plump middle and lower parts of the branch to promote early new shoot growth and reblooming. Roses like heavy application of base fertilizer before flowering and quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as a top dressing after flowering to strengthen the plants and promote flowering. Roses have strict water requirements and cannot be too wet or too dry; too dry causes wilting, while too wet damages roots and causes leaf drop.
The main pests of roses include aphids, leaf-roller moths, and slug moths, etc. Control is mainly carried out with pesticides such as dimethoate or isocarbophos at 1000-1200x dilution.
Propagation is mainly by grafting and cuttings, supplemented by sowing and tissue culture, etc. Commonly used grafting rootstocks include: wild rose (Rosa multiflora), pink cluster rose, "Baiyutang" (rose), etc.
For open-field planting of roses, choose a sheltered, sunny location with good drainage. In addition to heavy application of base fertilizer, top dressing should also be applied during the growing season. Pruning is an important task; in addition to dormant-season pruning, attention should also be paid during the growing season to bud removal, cutting out faded flower branches, and removing rootstock suckers. Greenhouse cultivation is mainly for the production purpose of supplying cut flowers, often planted at a spacing of 30 cm×30 cm, maintaining 15-17°C at night and 21-25°C during the day. Potted roses can be used for indoor ornamental display. The key points of their cultivation and management are: loose potting soil, appropriate pot size, moderate moisture, light fertilizer applied frequently, flower removal and branch pruning, pest and disease control, and repotting every year.
Flowering Period Control
Roses are also called “monthly red” and naturally bloom from May to November, flowering continuously. However, during the Olympic period, flowering period control for roses is still very important, especially for potted roses and cut roses, the flowering period must be well controlled to fully accomplish the tasks of temporary flower displays at various venues and stadiums during the Olympics and the supply of fresh cut flowers.
Scientific pruning to control the flowering period. Reasonable pruning is the key to controlling the flowering period of roses. In practical work, pruning should be carried out according to the overall growth condition of the rose plant. There are two types of buds on rose flowering branches. At the 1st to 5th leaf below the flower, the upper buds on the branch are pointed; the flowering branches they produce are short, with about 6-9 leaves, and buds appear early, usually in 15-18 days, with small flowers. The middle buds on the branch (at the 6th to 9th leaf below the flower) are round; round buds produce long flowering branches, with about 13-16 leaves, and take longer to show buds, usually about 25 days, with large flowers. The buds at the base of the branch are flat, with low bud activity, slow branching, and are prone to producing vigorous water shoots, with even longer time to bud on flowering branches, usually more than 30 days. It can thus be seen that the heterogeneity of rose buds determines the time of flowering branch sprouting, the time of bud appearance, and the time of flowering. Only by understanding the habits of flower buds can the flowering period be accurately controlled. Under normal circumstances, roses take about 45 days from new bud sprouting to flowering.
In practical work, specific situations should be analyzed specifically. For field-planted roses, according to their geographical location, while ensuring continuous flowering, make them bloom more and bloom well from August 8 to 24. The following methods are for reference: around June 20, prune all faded flowers and some already fully bloomed flowering branches of field-planted roses by 50%, cutting to the round bud position at the mature middle part of the flowering branch; their ornamental flowering period is about August 1 to 15. Around June 30, prune all faded flowers and all flowering branches after full bloom by the above method; their ornamental flowering period is about August 10 to 25. After June 30, prune faded flowers at any time to allow them to bloom naturally. For potted roses and cut roses, calculate the desired flower use date well, and about 45 days before flower use, carry out comprehensive branch pruning.
Fertilizer and Water Management. In the various pruning situations above, scientific fertilizer and water management should be carried out in combination with plant growth condition. After the plant is pruned, if the new generation of buds does not sprout, spray 0.2% urea on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days to promote new bud sprouting; if the plant grows quickly and new branches grow rapidly beyond the planned range, controlling water supply can delay growth. In the process of water control, the critical point is that after branches and leaves wilt, water should be sprayed promptly and recovery within 1 hour. Water is the carrier of various enzymes in the plant body. If water supply is insufficient, enzyme activity decreases, metabolism slows down, and therefore plant growth slows down. If new branches show buds later than planned, spray 0.2% monopotassium phosphate on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, and the flower buds will grow rapidly. The flowering period of roses consumes a large amount of water and internal nutrients, so the water supply must be sufficient.
Flowering Conditions
The rose is a plant that greatly loves sunlight. If there is insufficient light, it is very difficult to achieve monthly flowering. In general, as long as the following key points are grasped, roses can be made to bloom every month.
(1) Sunshine must be long. The place where roses are planted must be both ventilated and able to receive more than half a day of sunlight. This is the primary condition for them to bloom profusely like brocade. If placed in a half-shade half-sun location or a shady place with insufficient light, at most they can only bloom in spring and autumn twice a year. Therefore, families whose living conditions cannot meet the light requirements had best not grow roses and instead grow relatively shade-loving flowers and plants.
(2) Prune frequently. Although the sunlight conditions may be good, if roses are not pruned for a long time, they will not grow well either. The pruning method is as follows. After December each year, when rose leaves fall, pruning should be carried out once, leaving branches about 15 cm high. The pruning point should be about 1 cm above an outward-extending leaf bud, and at the same time remove side branches, diseased branches, and concentric branches. After May, each time a round of flowers finishes blooming, cut off 2/3 or 1/2 of that flowering branch, so there will be more opportunities for regenerated flower buds. If larger flowers are desired, some can also be removed when there are many flower buds, which both concentrates nutrients and achieves the purpose of extending the flowering period and opening in batches.
(3) Fertilize frequently and promptly. Generally, newly planted or transplanted potted roses can be cultivated with humus-rich, loose yellow soil, preferably mixed with 1/4 rice husk ash or a small amount of broad bean shells, bean cake, or chicken and pigeon manure, etc., so that roses can continuously absorb various nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium from the soil. If old potted roses need repotting, base fertilizer can also be applied as above; if not repotting, scrape open the soil surface 2-3 cm and work in some fresh fish innards or chicken and pigeon manure, bean cake crumbs, etc. as base fertilizer. This is best done in January-February when roses are dormant. In this way, the fertilizer will gradually ferment into fertilizer liquid and seep into the roots with rainwater or irrigation water, achieving better results. After May is the peak growing season for roses. Every 10 days, apply a top dressing once. Fully fermented fishy liquid or vegetable leaf liquid can be used, mixed at a ratio of 3 parts fertilizer to 7 parts water. Stop fertilizing by November. If the above requirements can be followed, roses can be made to meet you with fresh flowers every month. Roses are inherently averse to heat; they grow best at temperatures of 20-25 degrees; above 30 degrees, growth becomes difficult. If the fertilization stage is handled well, their weakness of fearing high summer temperatures can be overcome.
(4) Pay attention to eliminating pests. In spring, roses are prone to aphids, which can be controlled by spraying water soaked with cigarette butts or diluted trichlorfon; within half a day the insects can be killed. In summer, they are prone to black spot disease and powdery mildew, both caused by excessive humidity and stuffiness. For mild cases, some diseased leaves can be removed; for severe cases, spray Bordeaux mixture or thiophanate-methyl, fungicide, etc. 2-3 times at intervals of about 10 days for control.
(5) Repotting. Roses do not need to be repotted or have their pots turned every year. If moving from a small pot to a large pot, it can be done in any of the four seasons.
Early Spring Management
In early spring, rose roots begin to spread in the soil. At this time, the most important cultivation task is pruning. In warm areas, it is in late February; in colder northern areas, pruning should be carried out in March-April. Pruning generally means cutting off about 1/3 of the plant height, first removing weak branches, diseased branches, and dead branches. New branches produced by the plant last year are the most vigorous; choose such main branches and keep 2-3, at most 5. According to the plant's original growth condition, generally prune with branch shears at about 50 cm above the ground, at a position 1 cm above a robust bud. The so-called robust bud is one that has not yet sprouted, is plump, and has already swelled. In order not to let buds grow into overly dense branches, choose and retain robust buds on the outer upper side of the plant. In addition, pruning should be carried out at the plump part of the branch. When pruning with shears, a “click” sound indicates the plump part. If the cut feels soft, cut further down to a hard place. The aged part at the branching node of the plant is rough and has protruding swellings, with no strong buds at all in between, so it should also be cut off.
The middle part of 2-3 year old main branches is the site where new buds frequently emerge, so when pruning, only leave 10-20 cm. Generally, if you want more flowers during the flowering period, carry out light pruning. If you want the flowers to bloom well during the flowering period and do not seek many flowers, carry out heavy pruning. In addition, for plants with poor growth, one should resolve to prune heavily, because such plants have poor root development, and if the crown is too large, it is easy to cause insufficient nutrient supply. While pruning, it is best to carry out one high-concentration disinfection, which has a significant effect on
preventing pests and diseases.
To make the pruned branches slant outward, they can be fixed with supports (wooden sticks, etc.), making the tree shape balanced and beautiful, and avoiding branches and leaves rubbing against each other when the wind blows. Branches produced from buds at the lower part of the slanted branch are more robust and bloom more luxuriantly, and attention should be paid to protecting them.
After the Awakening of Insects, insects successively awaken from hibernation and begin activity. At this time, dissolve 10 ml of fenitrothion (insecticide) and 20 g of wettable sulfur powder used for treating powdery mildew in 10 L of water, and spray the plants with the fully dissolved concentrated solution. Because roses have not yet grown leaves at this time, there is no need to worry about phytotoxicity.
About 20 days after pruning, buds begin to sprout. Among them, weak and small buds are often naturally eliminated during the sprouting process. To make the flowers bloom well, retain buds according to the thickness of the main branch: keep 3-4 buds on thick branches, keep 1-2 buds on pencil-thick branches, and remove all the rest. In cold regions, sprouting is later, so bud removal can be postponed.
If base fertilizer was applied in December, top dressing may not be needed in early spring. When buds sprout, scatter an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer around the roots to promote budding. After buds sprout, if the surface soil is dry on sunny days, irrigate in the morning or before noon to prevent the surface from freezing.
Summer Management
Once the peak flowering period of potted roses has passed, they enter the hot and humid summer, and are mostly in a dormant or semi-dormant state. Strengthening summer management of potted roses and carrying out rejuvenation care can break the dormant period and keep them blooming continuously throughout the summer. The main management measures are:
1. Shading and ventilation. Potted roses have limited soil, and hot weather can easily heat and dry them out, so roses must be shaded and cooled. It is best to place the potted flowers from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. in a ventilated place under trees or a trellis in the yard, so that the potted flowers receive scattered light, creating suitable environmental conditions for roses to grow and bloom.
2. More fertilizer and water. Roses bloom many times and need sufficient nutrients and water to ensure vigorous growth. In summer, their evaporation and consumption are both high, and growth is rapid. During the flowering period, apply a light top dressing every 10 days. Bean cake and poultry manure can also be soaked in water, sealed and fermented, then mixed with water as a top dressing, making the plants flower abundantly and leaves luxuriant, breaking the summer dormancy of roses. For watering, it is advisable to use sun-warmed water to reduce the temperature difference between the potting soil and the water. If too-cold water is used, it will stimulate the root system and affect the normal development of the plant.
3. Spray more water. Roses enter a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and are most conducive to growth at an average temperature of 20-25°C. Therefore, in summer, in addition to appropriate shading, more water should be sprayed, preferably once in the morning and once in the afternoon, creating a humid environment and promoting the growth of flowers and leaves.
4. Thinning branches and pruning. After roses bloom, they should be cut below the 3rd compound leaf under the flower to promote the development of sturdy new branches and earlier bud appearance and flowering. Weak short branches should be pruned first and pruned high; robust branches should be pruned later and pruned short, to promote the weak and restrain the strong, and promote uniform flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed one half, to avoid delayed axillary bud sprouting. In addition, it is not advisable to retain too many flowers per round; for potted roses, 3-5 flowers are appropriate. Retaining too many flowers disperses nutrients too much, resulting in small flowers and affecting the next round of flowers.
5. Loosening soil and weeding. While clearing weeds on the pot surface, a fine wire rake can be used to gently break the surface layer around the flower pot, enhancing the looseness and aeration of the potting soil and promoting normal root growth.
6. Pest and disease control. The site where flower pots are placed should frequently be sprayed with 15% quicklime water or carbendazim or potassium permanganate aqueous solution for sterilization. July-August, the rainy season with high temperatures, is the high-incidence period for leaf spot disease and powdery mildew. Spray with lime sulfur mixture at 0.3-0.5 degrees Baumé, once a week, for 2-3 sprays in total. In June-July, if longhorn beetle larvae are found causing damage, the affected shoot tips should be cut off immediately. If other leaf-eating pests are found, immediately spray 800x monocrotophos for control, which can kill eggs and larvae.
Pot Cultivation Techniques
(1) Potting up refers to planting newly propagated small seedlings or large field-grown roses lifted before sprouting into pots. For small seedlings grown in coarse sand or water culture, as well as bare-root field-grown seedlings, it is advisable to plant them in plain sandy loam for a period, and after the root system grows strong, use fertilized culture soil with base fertilizer and move them into a pot one size larger. For small seedlings rooted in culture soil or small field-grown seedlings with soil balls, ordinary culture soil can be used. When potting up, new pots should first be soaked thoroughly with water, and old pots should be washed clean. Depending on pot size, place 1 cm to 3 cm of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Then fill in part of the soil according to the size of the plant. For bare-root potting, pile the soil into a small mound in the center of the pot, hold the plant upright and straight with the left hand, and fill soil with the right hand, gently lifting the seedling upward as soil is added, so that the roots hang downward at 45o. After planting, firm the soil. For those potted with soil around the roots, also arrange the root hairs and plant the plant upright. Small seedlings are generally not restricted by time for potting up; once they survive cultivation, they should be potted up promptly to prevent leggy and weak growth. Potting up large field-grown plants must be carried out during the dormant period after leaf drop in early winter or before sprouting in early spring; otherwise normal growth and development will be affected, tree vigor will weaken, and a very long time will be needed for rejuvenation. When potting up, the soil should be moist and loose, and after potting, do not water thoroughly immediately; pay attention to shading and shelter from wind. This not only promotes rapid healing of broken roots but also facilitates rejuvenation and vigorous growth.
(2) Repotting means removing the entire root ball from a small pot and planting it into a larger pot according to the plant's growth condition and development needs, including transitioning from plain soil cultivation to culture soil. Repotting is generally not restricted by time. For example, small seedlings potted in No. 2 pots in spring, if growing vigorously, can be moved to No. 9 cylindrical pots between July and August. Even larger plants can be moved to pots one size larger. When removing from the pot, grip the plant stem with the index and middle fingers of the right hand, press the palm tightly against the soil surface, and support the bottom of the pot with the left hand, turning the pot over. For small seedlings, tap the pot edge lightly with the hand; for large pots, hold the pot with both hands and gently knock the rim against a hard surface, and the entire root ball can be removed with the plant. The original potting soil should be watered beforehand; when removing from the pot, it should not be too dry or too wet. For repotting, use culture soil. First remove the surface layer of soil (the cap) and the lower drainage layer, then slightly loosen and straighten the fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball. Handle gently and do not let the root ball break apart. Then place it in the pot, add 20 g to 60 g of hoof pieces as base fertilizer, fill with soil and firm it. After repotting, normal care can continue.
(3) Changing pots means for various types of potted roses that have developed into form after two years of potting, in order to keep the plants growing vigorously and the plant shape well-proportioned, replace the potting soil and apply base fertilizer every year after leaf drop and before sprouting, in combination with pruning. For pot changing, generally the original pot size is still used, without increasing the number. For those stored closed in soil cellars in winter, after removing the entire root ball from the pot, trim the roots. First remove the surface cover and bottom drainage layer of the root ball, then cut off the excessively dense fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball. Be careful to inspect and remove rotten roots and root nodules, and retain the root-protecting soil without letting the root ball break apart. In total, the old potting soil removed should not exceed 1/2. Then place it in a cold cellar for heeled-in storage, and pot it with new soil the following spring. For those kept in a cold room or a film cold frame in winter, they can be repotted with new soil into the original pot; the key operating points are the same as for repotting. After changing pots, water thoroughly once, then place in a cold room or cold frame for care.
Water and Fertilizer. During the growing period, potted roses should be watered in a timely manner as needed, always keeping the potting soil moist. In hot and dry seasons, it is advisable to spray water on the leaves and surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh; in cold seasons, it is advisable to spray water on the leaves and surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh; in cold seasons, control water, but the potting soil must not dry out completely. Fertilization should be based on the fertilizer preferences of different varieties and the needs of each stage of growth and development, as well as temperature, light, and the strength of growth, applying base fertilizer or top dressing promptly and in appropriate amounts.
Pruning Techniques
Promptly cutting off faded rose flowers is the only way to concentrate nutrients and keep the plants strong and flowering without decline. If faded flowers are not removed in time, the few axillary buds immediately below the faded flower often sprout, forming weak branches. These small branches both consume nutrients and ruin the plant shape; even if they can bloom, they are mostly deformed or inferior small flowers. In addition, except for flowers from which seeds are to be collected, faded flowers must never be allowed to set seed.
After the first batch of flowers blooms, medium-strength branches should be cut back to a moderate length, leaving 3 to 4 buds on each branch; weak branches should be cut back hard, leaving 1 to 2 buds; strong branches should be pruned lightly, leaving 5 buds, to appropriately suppress growth. The second pruning should be light, cutting only just above the second leaf below the spent flower, keeping the axillary bud of that second leaf. This is a bud with the best advantages in both growth and development, and it occupies the dominant position on the whole plant; removing this bud will affect the next flowering period, flower quality and the plant's vigor.
After the Start of Autumn, post-bloom pruning (the third batch of flowers) uses moderate cutting, leaving 3 to 4 buds on each branch. To keep the plant's shape balanced, you can also cut back down to the branches that flowered in the previous batch. Overlapping branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches and vigorous water shoots should be removed to improve ventilation and light penetration and to keep the plant's shape even.
At the same time, post-bloom pruning of roses should also be combined with controlling the flowering period. For roses used for National Day, prune 45 days before flowering, cutting back to a moderate length and leaving 3 to 4 buds, after which each branch will send out 2 small shoots. After pruning, strengthen fertilizer and water management, pay attention to preventing waterlogging and powdery mildew, and the flowers will open successively in late September.
In addition, pruning can make floribunda roses flower earlier or later. Light pruning of such roses preserves more mature branches, bringing the plant into bloom two weeks earlier; heavy pruning makes the plant produce strong branches that flower in autumn, delaying the autumn bloom by two weeks. Therefore, considering the plant as a whole, different pruning can be used to advance or extend the flowering period.
Grafting Methods
Grafting is one of the most widely used methods for propagating roses. Grafting belongs to the category of asexual reproduction: it joins parts of two plants into a single whole that continues to grow as one plant. In a grafted combination, the upper part is called the scion, and the part that bears the scion is called the rootstock. Some rose cultivars are few in number and have striking flower colors, yet own-root seedlings have weak root systems and grow extremely slowly; grafting onto vigorous rootstocks makes these rose cultivars grow strongly and improves their disease resistance.
Grafting can also faithfully reflect the various traits of the original cultivar, with extremely strong heredity and stability. Through practical observation, for plants formed by grafting after growth and development, from the day of grafting to the opening of the first flower takes as little as 23 days, and a few plants can even flower 1 to 2 days earlier, while most grafted plants usually take about 40 to 45 days to flower. It can thus be seen that compared with cuttings, grafting can advance the flowering time.
Taking the Beijing area as an example: on June 15, grafting and cuttings were done on the same day; by around July 25 about 20% of the grafted plants could flower, while only about 10% of the cutting seedlings flowered around September 20 or even later. This shows that the advantages of grafting are very strong. Of course, graft propagation is complex to perform and requires relatively high skill. The specific issues of graft propagation are explained one by one below.
I. Factors Affecting Graft Survival
1. Selection of rootstock:
For grafting roses, a suitable grafting rootstock must first be selected. The rootstock not only bears the role of mechanical support and absorbs and conducts water and nutrients, it also controls the plant's function of absorbing organic matter, is responsible for the manufacture of various enzymes and the storage of nutrients, and has a great influence on the various characteristics of the stems, leaves, flowers and fruits of the upper part of the plant. Of course, the scion in turn also plays an important role in the growth and development of the rootstock's root system. Various experiments have proved that the quality of the rootstock is one of the important factors determining whether ideal grafted rose seedlings can be produced. The rootstocks commonly used now are roses and their varieties, such as ‘Fentuan’ rose, ‘Mannetti’ rose, Holland rose and Japanese thornless rose. These rose species have well-developed root systems, are cold-resistant and drought-resistant, and have strong affinity for the grafted cultivars and stable heredity.
2. Graft compatibility between rootstock and scion:
Graft compatibility refers to the similarity of the internal tissue structure, genetic and physiological characteristics of the rootstock and scion. Through grafting, it can promote the plant to heal and survive and to be physiologically compatible after survival. The manifestation of weak and strong compatibility is relatively complex. Generally speaking, the closer the kinship, the stronger the compatibility. Compatibility is strongest between the same cultivar or the same species. Graft compatibility between different species of the same genus varies with the species.
3. Cambium of both rootstock and scion:
The cambium parts of both rootstock and scion must be in close contact over a fairly large area; this is one of the factors for graft survival. Theoretically, complete alignment of the cambium of both rootstock and scion is the most ideal grafting result, but this is difficult to achieve in actual operation; one can only aim to achieve as large an area of contact as possible.
4. Temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions during grafting:
Temperature is a necessary condition for cell activity; only cell activity, including cell division, can promote scion growth.
Generally, different rose cultivars can have rapid cell growth within a temperature range of 13°C to 32°C. When grafting outdoors, choose the period of the year with the above temperatures and when the cambium is vigorously active. Such conditions generally occur in spring, early summer, and September and October. The callus tissue grown from the cambium is composed of thin-walled, plump cells, which easily lose water and dry out, causing the scion to wither and die. Therefore, the union must be tightly bound to maintain tissue moisture. The rapid division of callus cells is often accompanied by respiration, and at this time oxygen is indispensable. Therefore, using plastic tape to bind the union has the dual effect of retaining water and promoting respiration.
5. Quality of rootstock and scion:
According to the growth pattern of the rootstock and the comparison between its cutting seedlings and seedling plants, selecting one-year-old seedling plants as rootstock for rose grafting is relatively ideal, because they have well-developed root systems, strong disease resistance, smooth main stems and moderate thickness. Of course, using cutting seedlings for grafting also has its advantages, such as a short cutting time and easy rooting.
II. Grafting Techniques
1. Disinfection of tools before grafting: when grafting, while ensuring that the cambium of the rootstock and scion are aligned, also ensure that the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion must be flat. The binding action must be nimble and quick, to avoid oxidation and discoloration of the cut surface.
2. Selection and storage of scions: the selection of rose scions is directly related to the survival quality of the grafted seedlings and whether vigorous grafted plants can be formed. Stored scions can be taken out for grafting at any time, eliminating the trouble of collecting them just before grafting, saving a great deal of time and allowing grafting at any time. The selection and storage of scions should pay attention to the following points:
(1) The scion wood must be healthy and free of pests and diseases; if there is powdery mildew, black spot or red spider, it must not be used.
(2) Usually, one-year-old or less than one-year-old post-bloom scion wood can be selected; the entire flowering branch counted from the second axillary bud below the bract can be used as scion wood. Flowering branches vary in length, from 150 cm long to about 10 cm short, and contain varying numbers of graft buds; sometimes on the same scion stick the graft buds differ in plumpness and fullness, so buds must be selected individually. Overall, graft buds taken from the middle part of the scion branch are most suitable for grafting, with the best survival rate.
(3) Scions can be stored for later use at any time of the year as long as they have plump graft buds; of course, in summer they must be refrigerated, and in winter they can be stored in sand. The time for refrigeration and sand storage must not be too long; usually the number of scions refrigerated or sand-stored should be roughly equal to the number of rootstock plants. Or the number refrigerated or sand-stored can be decided by the grafting speed. The prerequisite for refrigeration and sand storage is proper moisture retention and temperature maintenance; only proper moisture and temperature maintenance can maintain the normal physiological activity of the scion wood. Practice has proved that scientific refrigeration and sand storage are beneficial to the survival rate and survival quality of grafting.
III. Grafting Period
According to the growth habits and growth patterns of roses, grafting can be carried out at any time of the year, but specific circumstances must be analyzed specifically. When the temperature reaches above 33°C, the survival rate of grafting is relatively reduced, and below 5°C the grafted plants are in a dormant state, so using the winter dormant period for grafting is suitable.
IV. Grafting Methods
According to current production practice and the mainstream methods of rose grafting, rose grafting methods can be divided into chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, large-open-door budding, and rootless rootstock grafting.
1. Chip budding with wood:
(1) On the sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm from the ground, use a single-edged safety razor blade to cut a shield-shaped incision 1 to 2 cm long at an angle of 30° to 40°. Then, using the same method and the same size, select a plump, full graft bud on the scion stick and insert it into the prepared rootstock incision, and bind firmly from bottom to top with white plastic tape of moderate elasticity and width, pressing the edges ring by ring, with moderate tightness.
(2) When inserting the graft bud into the incision, align the cambium over as large an area as possible, so that the rootstock xylem is not exposed. This method is simple, quick to perform and has a relatively high survival rate, but it requires high skill; one must master the technique of matching rootstock and scion in one go.
2. T-shaped budding: T-shaped budding is likewise a popular method in current rose grafting production.
(1) Use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut on the branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm from the ground, about 5 to 8 mm wide, with a depth just reaching the xylem, then make a vertical cut downward from the middle of the horizontal cut, about 1.5 to 2 cm long, so that the bark forms a T-shaped opening.
(2) Cut the scion stick from the mother plant, remove the leaf blade but keep the petiole, select a plump, full graft bud, use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.5 cm above it, going about 3 mm deep into the xylem, then use the knife to push and cut upward from about 0.5 cm below the graft bud, just reaching the xylem, up to the incision above the graft bud.
(3) Use the knife to pry open the bark of the T-shaped incision on the rootstock, insert the graft bud into the incision, and after insertion make fine adjustments so that the horizontal cut of the graft bud aligns with the horizontal cut of the rootstock without exposing the rootstock cambium; getting it in place in one go is most ideal. Once the graft bud is properly placed, bind it with plastic tape, and the graft bud must be left exposed when binding. Although this method seems cumbersome and time-consuming, once proficient it can complete the grafting of one plant within one minute, and the graft survival rate is extremely high and the survival quality excellent.
3. Large-open-door budding: the large-open-door budding method is also currently a very popular grafting method; it requires high skill, and the rootstock and scion incisions must not be exposed for too long. The key operating points are as follows:
(1) On the smooth, branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm from the ground, use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut with a depth just reaching the xylem, then aim at one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then at the other end of the horizontal cut make another cut in the same way. Both cuts are just to the xylem, then make another horizontal cut about 0.5 cm below the horizontal cut, and use the knife to remove the small square piece of cut bark to expose the xylem, then use the knife to lift it open.
(2) Remove the leaf blade from the scion stick but keep the petiole, select a plump, full graft bud, use the knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.3 cm above the graft bud, then aim at one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm, then at the other end of the horizontal cut make another vertical cut in the same way, then aim at the two vertical cuts and make a horizontal cut to form a rectangular bud plate with the graft bud, with all four cuts reaching the xylem.
(3) Use a knife or your hand to lift open the rootstock bark and quickly insert the graft bud and make fine adjustments. Align the two horizontal cuts of rootstock and scion, bind with plastic tape, with moderate tightness. Grafting by this method gives a large contact area of rootstock and scion cambium and rapid supply, and can greatly improve the survival rate and survival quality.
4. Rootless rootstock grafting: rootless rootstock grafting is grafting onto already lignified new rootless rose branches, followed by cutting propagation. This method of rose graft propagation meets the needs of factory-style, specialized and large-scale production, and is not limited by season. Carrying out all-weather assembly-line production indoors can greatly improve production efficiency, survival rate and survival quality. Rootless rootstock grafting can adopt the above methods of chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding and large-open-door budding. When using this method for propagation in summer, the graft bud must have 1 to 2 leaves, and after cutting, moisture-retention care is required. If rootless rootstock grafting and cutting are carried out in a greenhouse in winter, the greenhouse temperature at night must not be lower than 5°C; for cutting in a sunny cold frame, cold protection measures must be strengthened to avoid frost damage.
Whether rootless rootstock grafting is carried out in summer or winter, after grafting the cutting density of the cuttings is sparser than ordinary rose cuttings. When cutting, all cuttings should lean at 70° toward the north, with the graft bud facing the sunny side.
Technical requirements: plant and row spacing 5 cm×5 cm, cutting depth about 3 cm.
Main Diseases and Control Measures
Fungal infection:
Black spot: mainly attacks leaves, petioles and young shoots. When the disease first occurs on leaves, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the upper surface, and after expanding they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Spray with carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, daconil and other chemicals.
Powdery mildew: attacks young leaves, with white powdery substance appearing on both sides. Early symptoms are not obvious; 3--5 days after the white powdery layer appears, the leaves become water-soaked, gradually lose green and turn yellow, and in severe cases cause leaf drop. During the onset period, spraying carbendazim or triadimefon is sufficient, but Guoguang Yingna has the best effect.
Leaf blight: mostly invades at the leaf tip or leaf margin, initially as small yellow spots, then rapidly expands inward into irregular large spots; in severe cases 2/3 of the whole leaf withers, the diseased part loses green and yellows, then browns, dries and falls off. To control the above diseases, besides strengthening fertilizer and water management, diseased branches and leaves should be cut off in winter, fallen leaves on the ground cleared away, and the initial infection sources reduced; when the disease occurs, comprehensive control should be adopted and fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl sprayed.
For diseases, prevention is the main approach: during high temperature, high humidity or rainy seasons, regularly spray fungicides; when seedlings enter the dormant stage, spray lime sulfur mixture for comprehensive sterilization, ensuring healthy growth of the seedlings; when the seedlings grow vigorously, they themselves resist a certain amount of disease invasion.
Pest Control
1. Slug moths
Mainly the larvae of the yellow slug moth, brown-edged green slug moth, beautiful brown slug moth, mulberry brown slug moth and flat slug moth, which in hot seasons feed heavily on leaves. Control method: once found, immediately spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution, or with 2.5% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 15 00 times dilution.
2. Scale insects
Mainly white scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, brown soft scale, cottony cushion scale, chaff scale, snake-eye scale, etc. Their damage is characterized by piercing and sucking the sap of rose young stems and young leaves, causing poor plant growth; it is mainly induced by high temperature and high humidity, poor ventilation and insufficient light. Control method: during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray with 25% buprofezin wettable powder at 2 000 times dilution.
3. Aphids
Mainly the rose aphid, green peach aphid, etc. They pierce and suck the sap of the plant's young organs, damaging young stems, young leaves and flower buds, seriously affecting the plant's growth and flowering. Control method: promptly spray with 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
4. Rose three-toothed sawfly
Mostly in the larval stage, dozens or more than a hundred gather in groups to do damage, and in a short time can eat all the plant's young leaves, leaving only a few main leaf veins, seriously harming the plant's normal growth. Control method: for a small number of potted plants, when they first appear, pick off the leaves on which large numbers of larvae have gathered and trample them to death. If they appear in large numbers, spray with 75% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate at 4000 times dilution.
5. Carmine spider mite
Can occur 10 to 15 generations a year; adult mites, young mites and nymphs gather on the underside of leaves to pierce and suck and do damage, and eggs are mostly laid on both sides of the leaf veins on the underside of leaves or under gathered fine silk webs. Each female mite can lay 50 to 150 eggs, up to 500 at most; completing one generation takes only 10 to 13 days at temperatures of 23°C to 25°C, and about 7 to 8 days at 28°C. It breaks out rampantly in hot, dry seasons, often causing large numbers of dense small white spots on the upper surface of leaves, with the underside yellowing and occasionally with dead spots. Control method: once found, promptly spray with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 2000 times dilution.
6. Scarab beetles
Mainly the copper-green scarab, black velvet scarab, white-spotted flower scarab, small green flower scarab, etc., which often use adults to gnaw new leaves, young shoots and flower buds, seriously affecting the plant's growth and flowering. Control method: taking advantage of the adults' death-feigning behavior, shake them off in the evening and kill them. Taking advantage of the adults' phototaxis, use black light traps to lure and kill them. When adults are feeding and doing damage, spray with 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. In addition, there are also damage by tiger moths, noctuid moths, inchworms, bagworms, leafhoppers, stink bugs, etc.; corresponding control measures can be taken according to the damage characteristics of different pest species.
Cutting and Fresh-keeping
Roses should be cut when the temperature is low and the humidity high. If roses are cut too early, the flowers often do not open normally after cutting. Generally they are cut 1 to 2 days before flowering. The cutting time is related to the cultivar; usually when 4 to 6 petals have loosened the flower bud, they can be cut. Sometimes it is found that cut roses droop their heads prematurely before the flower bud has opened; this situation is mainly due to cutting too early at the bud stage, when the calyx is still tightly wrapping the flower bud. It is best to cut when the sepals and petals form a 90° angle. When cutting, the branch should have 5 internodes or a somewhat longer length, but there must be at least two buds on the branch. One hour after cutting, insert into water to absorb water, then grade by length, tie in bundles of 10 stems, and package in cellophane. Rose cut flowers have a short fresh-keeping period and do not tolerate long-distance transport. If cut roses are not to be sold on the market, they should immediately be put into low-temperature storage; the storage temperature is 1°C to 2°C, and it is best to insert them in water for wet storage. The water quality for wet storage is very important; a low pH value is beneficial to rose cut flowers. Be careful not to insert the leaves into the water too. The freshness-promoting agent in the flower-holding container is a mixed liquid composed of silver thiosulfate and aluminum sulfate. Usually the vase fresh-keeping solution for all roses is called the Cornell formula solution. To overcome the bent-neck phenomenon of roses, cobalt acetate with a mass fraction of 360×10E-6 can be added to the preservative. In addition, diammonium ethyl phosphonate can prevent red rose cut flowers from rotting and early wilting.
Peace Rose
The Peace rose was bred by the Frenchman Francis Meilland in 1939 under the iron heel of fascism. Under the code 3-35-40, he sent this rose to the United States. After the American horticulturist Baye received this cultivar that had crossed the ocean, he immediately distributed it to important flower nurseries in the north and south of the United States for propagation. A few years later, this new cultivar made a comeback and caused a sensation throughout the United States. In 1945 the American Pacific Rose Society named this cultivar Peace and declared: We are convinced that this most remarkable new rose cultivar of the contemporary era should be named after the greatest wish of the people of today's world, “Peace,” and we believe that the Peace rose will serve as a model and forever grow in the gardens of our descendants for generations. On the day the Peace rose was named, it happened that the allied forces captured Berlin and Hitler perished. And when the Peace rose received the unconditional surrender of the whole of American imperialism. When the United Nations was founded and held its first meeting in San Francisco, in the vase in each delegate's room there was a bunch of Peace roses presented by the American Rose Society. On it was a note reading: We hope the “Peace” rose can influence people's thinking and give the whole world lasting peace. During the Second World War, fascist bandits in a village called Lidice fourteen kilometers from Prague killed one hundred and seventy-five men over the age of fifteen and put the women and children into concentration camps. After the war, to commemorate these people, many rose experts and some voluntary donors built a rose garden here in 1955, among which the main cultivar was Peace.
Red Hat Rose
Product name: Red Hat Rose
Category: Flowering shrub category->Red Hat Rose
Product introduction: Red Hat Rose scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Product features
Scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Family and genus: Rosaceae
Distribution: native to Hubei, Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangsu, Guangdong and other provinces, now commonly cultivated in various places, especially the original species and Yueyuehong. The original species and most varieties were introduced abroad as early as the early 18th century and became important original material for modern rose hybrid breeding.
Morphological characteristics: evergreen or semi-evergreen upright shrub, usually with hooked prickles. Leaflets 3-5, broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, apex acute, margin sharply serrate, glabrous on both sides, glossy on the surface; petiole and rachis sparsely bearing prickles and short glandular hairs, stipules mostly attached to the petiole, margin with glandular cilia, flowers often several in clusters, rarely solitary, about 5 cm in diameter, deep red, pink, to nearly white, slightly fragrant; sepals often pinnately lobed, margin with glandular hairs; pedicels mostly slender, with glandular hairs. Fruit ovoid to globose, 1.5-2 cm long, red. Flowering period late April to October; fruit ripening period September to November.
Ornamental characteristics and garden uses: roses have brilliant flower colors and a long flowering period, and are good material for garden arrangement. They are suitable for flower beds, flower borders and foundation planting, and are also very suitable for mixed planting on lawns, at garden path corners, in courtyards and on rockeries; they can also be used as potted plants and cut flowers.
Value and Uses
Roses can be used for garden arrangement in flower beds, flower borders and courtyard flower material, can be made into rose bonsai, and used as cut flowers, flower baskets, bouquets, etc. The flowers can be used to extract fragrance. The roots, leaves and flowers can all be used as medicine, with the effects of promoting blood circulation and reducing swelling, and reducing inflammation and detoxifying. The rose is a thorny shrub, or appears trailing and climbing. Evergreen or deciduous shrub, upright, stem brown, with hooked prickles or without prickles, and there are also those with almost no prickles. Branchlets green, leaves dark green, mostly pinnately compound leaves, broadly ovate or ovate-oblong, 2.5-6 cm long, apex acuminate, with sharp teeth, leaf margin serrate, glabrous on both sides, smooth; stipules adnate to the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, apex separated into ear-like shapes. Flowers often clustered, rarely solitary, flower colors very many, shades varying, 4-5 cm in diameter, mostly double-petaled, also single-petaled; sepals tail-like and long-pointed, margin with pinnate lobes; styles free, extending out of the mouth of the calyx tube, equal in length to the stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. Fruit ovoid or pear-shaped, 1-2 cm long, sepals deciduous. Flowering period April--October. Most are complete flowers. They are bisexual flowers.
Rose R. chinensis Rose Illustrated Guide: How to grow roses / How to propagate roses
Rose ProfileRose R. chinensis
Alternative names: Yueyuehong, Gengshen Qiangwei, Four Seasons Flower, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Yueyuehua, Yanxuehong, Chouchunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Four Seasons Spring, Shouke
Classification: Shrub flowers
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledons, Rosales, Rosaceae, Rosa
Full flowering period: Four seasons
Rose, called the queen of flowers and also known as "Yueyuehong", Rosaceae. Evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub, flowering in all four seasons, mostly red, occasionally white, can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, also called Yuejihua. Natural flowering period May to November, flowers large, fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and as cut flowers. The main types of roses include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, ground-cover roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of roses. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin and other cities. Red cut flowers have even become a must-give gift between lovers and the subject of love poetry. Rose (scientific name: Rosa chin...
Rose cultivation methods and precautions Rose introduction
Rose, called the queen of flowers and also known as "Yueyuehong", Rosaceae. Evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub, flowering in all four seasons, mostly red, occasionally white, can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, also called Yuejihua. Natural flowering period May to November, flowers large, fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and as cut flowers. The main types of roses include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, ground-cover roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of roses. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin and other cities. Red cut flowers have even become a must-give gift between lovers and the subject of love poetry.
Rose (scientific name: Rosa chinensis), also known as Yueyuehong (Jiangsu, Zhejiang), Yueyuehua, Changchunhua (Changchun, Jilin), Gengshen Qiangwei, native to Guizhou, Hubei, Sichuan and other places in central China, now spread all over the world. It is the city flower of Fuyang, Beijing, Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Nanyang, Changzhou, Huai'an and Liuzhou, and the national flower of Iraq, the United States and Luxembourg.
Natural flowering period May to November, flowers large, fragrant, widely used in horticultural cultivation and as cut flowers. The main types of roses include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, ground-cover roses, etc. China is one of the places of origin of roses. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin, Wuhu, Handan, Shijiazhuang and other cities. Red cut flowers have even become one of the must-give gifts between lovers and the subject of love poetry. Rose flowers have relatively good antifungal and synergistic anti-drug-resistant-fungus activity.
Morphological Characteristics of Rose
Rose is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or without prickles, but there are also roses with almost no prickles. Branchlets green, leaves dark green, leaves alternate, odd-pinnately compound leaves, leaflets generally 3 to 5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5 to 6 cm long, apex acuminate, with sharp teeth, leaf margin serrate, glabrous on both sides, smooth; stipules adnate to the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, apex separated into ear-like shapes.
Flowers borne at the top of branches, flowers often clustered, rarely solitary, flower colors very many, shades varying, 4 to 5 cm in diameter, mostly double-petaled, also single-petaled; sepals tail-like and long-pointed, margin with pinnate lobes; styles free, extending out of the mouth of the calyx tube, equal in length to the stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. It has the fine name of queen of flowers. Flowers slightly fragrant, flowering period April to October (north), March to November (south), with the most flowering in spring; most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. Fleshy rose hips, after ripening appearing red-yellow, splitting open at the top, the "seeds" being achenes, chestnut brown. Fruit ovoid or pear-shaped, 1 to 2 cm long, sepals deciduous.
1. Flowers: flowers borne at the top of stems, solitary or clustered. There are single-petaled, semi-double and double distinctions, with rich flower colors and diverse flower shapes.
2. Fruit: the fruit of the rose is spherical or pear-shaped, green before ripening, and orange-red when ripe. It contains 5 to 14 bony achenes (seeds).
3. Seeds: the outer layer of rose seeds is the pericarp; the pericarp has inner and outer layers, the outer layer being a bony layer, very hard; the inner layer is a fibrous layer, with fibers interwoven vertically and horizontally, very tough. The seed coat is a very thin membranous layer, tightly wrapping the embryo. There is a certain gap between the pericarp and the seed coat.
4. Leaves: odd-pinnately compound leaves; leaflets 3 to 7, ovate or oblong; leaf margin serrate, [1] most cultivars have smooth and glossy leaf surfaces (some cultivars are rough and lusterless), and most cultivars are purplish-red when the leaves first unfold, later gradually turning green.
5. Stem: the primary stem of the rose is purplish-red, the young stem green, and the old stem grayish-brown; the stem bears sharp, stiff prickles, and the density of prickles varies with the cultivar.
6. Roots: the morphology of the rose root system is closely related to the propagation method; seedling plants have an obvious main root and strong lateral roots; seedlings propagated by cuttings have only lateral roots and no main root, and the number of lateral roots is relatively small and their vitality relatively poor.
Evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub, 1-2 m tall. Stem upright; branchlets spreading, green, glabrous, with curved prickles or without prickles. Pinnately compound leaves with 3-5 leaflets, rarely 7, 10-15 cm long including the petiole, leaflets broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, 1.5-3 cm wide, apex acute or acuminate, base rounded or broadly cuneate, margin with sharp fine serrations, surface bright green, glabrous on both sides, terminal leaflet with a long petiole, lateral leaflets with shorter petiolules, petiole and rachis with sparse glandular hairs and fine prickles; stipule margin with eyelash-like glandular hairs or with pinnate lobes, glabrous on both sides, base adnate to the petiole. Flowers several in clusters or solitary, about 5 cm in diameter, pedicel 3-5 cm long, green, often with glandular hairs; receptacle nearly spherical, calyx lobes triangular-ovate, apex tail-pointed, entire or pinnately divided, glabrous outside, inner surface and margin covered with short down; petals double, deep red, pink, rarely white; stamens numerous; styles free, ovary pubescent. Rose hip spherical, yellow-red, 1.5-2 cm in diameter, calyx lobes persistent. North April to October, south March to November.
Rose is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or without prickles, but there are also roses with almost no prickles. Branchlets green, leaves dark green, leaves alternate, odd-pinnately compound leaves, leaflets generally 3 to 5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5 to 6 cm long, apex acuminate, with sharp teeth, leaf margin serrate, glabrous on both sides, smooth; stipules adnate to the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, apex separated into ear-like shapes.
Flowers borne at the top of branches, flowers often clustered, rarely solitary, flower colors very many, shades varying, 4 to 5 cm in diameter, mostly double-petaled, also single-petaled; sepals tail-like and long-pointed, margin with pinnate lobes; styles free, extending out of the mouth of the calyx tube, equal in length to the stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. It has the fine name of queen of flowers. Flowers slightly fragrant, flowering period April to October (north), March to November (south), with the most flowering in spring; most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. Fleshy rose hips, after ripening appearing red-yellow, splitting open at the top, the "seeds" being achenes, chestnut brown; fruit ovoid or pear-shaped, 1 to 2 cm long, sepals deciduous.
Ecological Habits of Rose
Strong adaptability, cold-resistant and drought-resistant, not strict about soil requirements, but best in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter and well drained. Pot soil should be loose, pot diameter appropriate, moisture moderate, apply thin fertilizer frequently, remove flowers and prune branches, prevent and control pests and diseases, and repot every year. It likes sunlight, but too much direct strong light is unfavorable to flower bud development, and petals easily scorch; it likes warmth, and generally a temperature of 22 to 25°C is the most suitable temperature for flower growth; high summer temperatures are unfavorable to flowering.
It needs sufficient sunshine, air circulation, good drainage and a sheltered environment, and needs appropriate shading in midsummer. The optimum temperature for most cultivars is 15 to 26°C by day and 10 to 15°C at night. It is relatively cold-resistant, and enters dormancy when the winter temperature is below 5°C. If the summer high temperature continues above 30°C, most cultivars flower less and quality decreases, entering a semi-dormant state.
General cultivars can tolerate a low temperature of -15°C. It requires fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter, but has a relatively wide adaptability to soil. Air relative humidity is preferably 75% to 80%, but slightly drier or slightly wetter is also acceptable. It has the characteristic of continuous flowering. It needs to maintain air circulation and be free of pollution; if ventilation is poor, powdery mildew easily occurs, and harmful gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine and fluorides, are all toxic to roses.
Distribution Area of Rose
China is one of the places of origin of roses. Modern roses have extremely complex blood relationships.
Rose is the city flower of Zhengzhou, Beijing, Tianjin, Nanyang, Dalian, Changzhi, Yuncheng, Bengbu, Jiaozuo, Putian, Qingdao, Weifang, Wuhu, Shijiazhuang, Handan, Xingtai, Langfang, Shangqiu, Luohe, Anqing, Ji'an, Huai'an, Huaibei, Huainan, Jiaonan, Nanchang, Yichang, Xuchang, Changzhou, Taizhou, Cangzhou, Suzhou, Hengyang, Shaoyang, Fuyang, Xinyang, Deyang, Tianshui, Dongtai and other cities. Among them, Laizhou City and Shiqiao Town in Nanyang City are "hometowns of roses", and Shuyang, Jiangsu is the largest rose production base in East China. Among them, roses produced in Laizhou, Shandong, Shuyang, Jiangsu and Nanyang, Henan are famous at home and abroad.
Rose Cultivation Techniques: Flowering Period Control
Rose is also called "Yueyuehong", with a natural flowering period from May to November, flowering continuously. However, controlling the flowering period of roses during the Olympics is still very important, especially for potted roses and cut-flower roses; the flowering period must be well controlled to fully complete the tasks of temporary flower displays at various venues and stadiums and the supply of fresh cut flowers during the Olympics.
In actual work, specific circumstances must be analyzed specifically. For field-grown roses, according to their geographical location, while ensuring continuous flowering, let them flower more and flower well from August 8 to 24. The following methods are for reference: around June 20, prune all spent flowers and part of the already fully bloomed flowering branches of field-grown roses at a proportion of 50%, cutting to the round bud position at the mature part in the middle of the flowering branch; their flowering ornamental period is about August 1 to 15; around June 30, prune all spent flowers and all post-bloom flowering branches by the above method, and their flowering ornamental period is about August 10 to 25; after June 30, prune spent flowers at any time to let them flower naturally. For potted roses and cut-flower roses, calculate the date of flower use well, and about 45 days before flower use, carry out comprehensive branch pruning.
Fertilizer and Water Management In the above various pruning situations, scientific fertilizer and water management should be carried out in combination with plant growth vigor. After the plant is pruned, when the new generation of buds does not sprout, spray 0.2% urea on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, which can promote new bud sprouting; if the plant grows fast and new branches grow rapidly, exceeding the planned range, controlling water supply can delay growth. In the process of water control, take the point at which, after branches and leaves wilt, timely spraying with water restores them within 1 hour as the critical point. Water is the carrier of various enzymes in the plant body; if water supply is insufficient, enzyme activity decreases and metabolism slows down, so plant growth slows down. If new branches bud later than planned, at this time spray 0.2% monopotassium phosphate on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, and the flower buds grow rapidly. During the rose flowering period, a large amount of water and internal nutrients are consumed, so the water supply must be sufficient.
Flowering Conditions
1. Sunshine must be long. The place where roses are planted must be both ventilated and able to receive more than half a day of sunshine. This is the primary condition for it to bloom profusely like brocade. If placed in a half-shade half-sun place or a shady place with insufficient light, it can at most only bloom in spring and autumn in a year. Therefore, families whose living conditions cannot meet the light requirements had best not grow roses and instead grow relatively shade-loving flowers and plants.
2. Prune often. Although the sunshine conditions are good, if roses are not pruned for a long time, they will not grow well either. The pruning method is: after December each year, when rose leaves fall, carry out one pruning, leaving branches about 15 cm high, with the pruning position about 1 cm above an outward-extending leaf bud, and at the same time remove side branches, diseased branches and concentric branches. After May, each time a round of flowering finishes, remove 2/3 or 1/2 of that branch that has flowered, so there will be more opportunities for regenerated flower buds. If you want larger flowers, you can also remove part of the buds when there are many flower buds, which can both concentrate nutrients and achieve the purpose of extending the flowering period and opening in batches.
3. Fertilize frequently and promptly. Generally, newly planted or transplanted potted roses can be cultivated with humus-rich, loose loess, best mixed with 1/4 rice husk ash or a little broad bean shell, bean cake or chicken and pigeon manure, so that roses can continuously absorb nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other nutrients from the soil. If old potted roses need repotting, base fertilizer can also be applied as above; if not repotting, scrape open the soil surface 2-3 cm and work in some fresh fish guts or chicken and pigeon manure, bean cake crumbs, etc. as base fertilizer. This is best done in January to February when roses are dormant. In this way, the fertilizer will gradually ferment into fertilizer liquid and seep into the roots with rain or watering, achieving good results. After May is the peak growth season for roses; every 10 days, apply a topdressing once; you can use fully decomposed fermented fishy juice or vegetable leaf juice, mixed and applied at a ratio of 3 parts fertilizer to 7 parts water, and stop fertilizing by November. If you can do as required above, you can make rose flowers meet you every month. Roses are by nature averse to heat; they grow best at temperatures of 20 to 25°C; above 30 degrees growth becomes difficult. If you handle fertilization well, you can overcome its weakness of fearing high summer temperatures.
4. Repotting. Roses do not need to be repotted or have their pots turned every year; if it is moving from a small pot to a large pot, it can be done in any of the four seasons.
Early Spring Management
In early spring, the roots of the Chinese rose begin to spread through the soil. At this time the most important care task is pruning.
In warm regions this is in late February; in the colder northern regions, pruning should be carried out in March to April. Pruning generally means cutting back about 1/3 of the plant's height, beginning with the removal of weak, diseased and dead branches. The new shoots the plant produced in 2011 are the most vigorous; choose 2 to 3, at most 5, of these main branches to keep, and depending on how the plant originally grew, usually cut with pruning shears about 50 cm above the ground, 1 cm above a strong bud. A so-called strong bud is a plump, already swollen bud that has not yet sprouted. So that the buds do not grow into overly dense branches, choose and keep a strong bud on the outer upper side of the plant. In addition, pruning should be done at a plump part of the branch. When you prune with the shears and hear a "click" sound, that is a plump part. If the cut feels soft, cut further down to a hard spot. Where the branching nodes of the plant have aged, the surface is rough and bulging, and there are no strong buds at all between them, so these too must be cut off.
The middle part of a 2- to 3-year-old main branch is where new buds most often appear, so when pruning it is enough to leave only 10 to 20 cm. Generally, if you want more flowers in the flowering season, prune lightly. If you want the flowers to be of good quality in the flowering season and do not seek many flowers, prune hard. In addition, plants with poor growth should be boldly hard-pruned, because such plants have poorly developed root systems, and if the crown is too large it easily leads to insufficient nutrient supply. While pruning, it is best to carry out one high-concentration disinfection, which has a marked effect on preventing pests and diseases.
To make the pruned branches lean outward, they can be fixed with supports (wooden sticks, etc.), so that the tree shape is balanced and graceful and the branches and leaves are prevented from rubbing against each other when the wind blows. The branches that grow from the buds at the lower part of the leaning branch are sturdier and their flowers are plentiful, so they should be protected.
After Awakening of Insects, insects wake from hibernation one after another and begin to become active. At this time dissolve 10 ml of fenitrothion (an insecticide) and 20 g of wettable sulfur powder used for powdery mildew in 10 L of water, and spray the plant with the fully dissolved concentrated solution. Because the Chinese rose has not yet grown leaves at this time, there is no need to worry about chemical injury.
About 20 days after pruning, the buds begin to swell, and among them the weak, small buds are often naturally eliminated during the sprouting process. To make the flowers bloom well, keep buds according to the thickness of the main branch: keep 3 to 4 buds on a thick branch, 1 to 2 buds on a pencil-thick branch, and remove all the rest. In regions with cold weather, sprouting is later, so bud removal can be postponed.
If base fertilizer was applied in December, no additional fertilizer is needed in early spring; when the buds sprout, scatter an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer around the roots to encourage budding. After the buds have sprouted, if the surface soil is dry on a sunny day, water in the morning or before noon so as not to let the surface soil freeze.
Summer management
Once the peak flowering period of potted Chinese roses has passed, they enter the hot, humid summer, and are mostly in a dormant or semi-dormant state. Strengthening summer management of potted Chinese roses and carrying out rejuvenating care can break the dormancy period and keep them flowering continuously throughout the summer. The main management measures are:
1. Shading and ventilation. The soil available to a potted Chinese rose is limited, and in hot weather it easily heats up and dries out completely, so the rose must be shaded and cooled. It is best to place the potted flowers from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. in a ventilated spot under a tree in the yard or under a trellis, so that the potted flowers receive diffused light and a suitable environment for growth and flowering is created for the Chinese rose.
2. More fertilizer and water. Chinese roses flower many times and need a sufficient supply of nutrients and water to guarantee vigorous growth. Once summer arrives, their evaporation and consumption are both great and they grow rapidly; during the flowering period, apply a light fertilizer every 10 days, or soak soybean cake and poultry manure in water, ferment them in a sealed container, then mix with water as a top dressing, so that the plant has abundant flowers and lush leaves and the summer dormancy of the Chinese rose is broken. For watering, use water that has been warmed in the sun to reduce the temperature difference between the potting soil and the water; if too-cold water is used, it will stimulate the root system and affect the plant's normal development.
3. Spray water often. Chinese roses enter a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and an average temperature of 20 to 25°C is most favorable for growth, so in summer, besides appropriate shading, water should be sprayed often, preferably once in the morning and once in the afternoon, to create a moist environment and promote the growth of flowers and leaves.
4. Thinning and pruning. After a Chinese rose flowers, it should be cut off below the third compound leaf under the flower, to encourage sturdy new branches and early flower buds and blooming. Weak, short branches are pruned first and pruned high; sturdy branches are pruned later and pruned short, so as to encourage the weak and restrain the strong and promote uniform flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed one half, to avoid delayed sprouting of axillary buds. In addition, too many flowers should not be kept per flush; for potted Chinese roses 3 to 5 flowers is appropriate. If too many flowers are kept, the nutrients are too dispersed, the flowers are small, and the next flush of flowers is affected.
5. Loosening the soil and weeding. Along with clearing weeds from the surface of the pot, a thin iron wire rake can be used to lightly break the surface layer around the flowerpot, enhancing the looseness and aeration of the potting soil and promoting normal root growth.
6. Preventing and controlling pests and diseases. The place where the flowerpots are placed should regularly be sprayed for sterilization with 15% lime water or with carbendazim or potassium permanganate aqueous solution. July to August, the high-temperature rainy season, is the peak period for leaf spot and powdery mildew; spray with 0.3 to 0.5 degree Baumé lime-sulfur mixture, once a week, 2 to 3 times in total. If longhorn beetle larvae are found causing damage in June to July, the affected shoot tips should be cut off immediately. As soon as other leaf-eating pests are found, spray 800-fold monocrotophos to control them; this can kill eggs and larvae.
Pot cultivation techniques
1. Potting up
This refers to planting newly raised small seedlings, or large plants of field-grown Chinese roses lifted before sprouting, into pots. Small seedlings grown in coarse sand or water culture, and bare-root field-grown seedlings, should first be planted for a period in plain sandy loam, and once the root system has grown sturdy, be planted in fertilized potting soil with base fertilizer at the bottom in a pot one size larger. Small seedlings rooted in potting soil, or small pots of field-grown plants with a soil ball, can be planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting up, a new pot should first be soaked through with water, and an old pot washed clean; depending on the size of the pot, place 1 cm to 3 cm of coarse sand at the bottom as a drainage layer. Then add part of the soil according to the size of the plant. For bare-root potting, heap the soil in the center of the pot into a small mound, hold the plant upright and straight with the left hand, and fill in soil with the right hand, lifting the seedling gently upward as you fill, so that the roots hang down at 45°. After planting, firm the soil; for plants potted with a soil ball around the roots, also straighten the root hairs and set the plant upright. Small seedlings can generally be potted at any time; once they have survived and grown, they should be potted up in good time to prevent leggy, weak growth. Large field-grown plants must be potted during the dormant period, after leaf fall in early winter or before sprouting in early spring; otherwise normal growth and development are affected, the tree's vigor weakens, and a long time is needed for it to recover. The soil used for potting should be moist and loose; after potting, do not water thoroughly at once, and take care to shade and shelter from wind. This not only promotes rapid healing of broken and damaged root hairs, but also makes it easy for the plant to recover and grow vigorously.
2. Repotting into a larger pot
According to the plant's growth condition and the needs of its development, the whole soil ball is taken out of a small pot and planted into a larger pot, including moving from plain soil planting over to potting soil. Repotting generally can be done at any time; for example, a small seedling potted in a No. 2 pot in spring, if growing vigorously, can be moved again between July and August into a No. 9 tall pot. Still larger plants can be potted into a pot one size larger again. When removing from the pot, grip the plant's stem with the index and middle fingers of the right hand, press the palm close to the soil surface, and support the bottom of the pot with the left hand and turn the pot over. For small seedlings, tap the rim of the pot lightly with the hand; for large pots, hold the pot with both hands and tap the rim lightly against a hard surface, and the plant can be removed whole with its soil ball. The original potting soil should be brought to the right moisture beforehand; when removing from the pot it must not be too dry or too wet. For repotting, plant in potting soil; first remove the surface layer of soil of the whole ball and the lower drainage layer, then loosen and straighten somewhat the fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball, handling gently so the ball does not break apart, then place it at once in the pot, add 20 to 60 g of hoof and horn pieces as base fertilizer, firm the soil, and after repotting continue normal care.
3. Changing the potting soil
For all kinds of Chinese roses that have been potted for two years and have developed into shape, in order to keep the plants growing vigorously and the plant shape well proportioned, change the potting soil and add base fertilizer every year after leaf fall and before sprouting, in combination with pruning. For changing the soil, generally the same size flowerpot is still used, and no larger size is chosen. For those stored closed in a soil cellar in winter, after removing the whole ball from the pot, trim the roots: first remove the surface layer covering of the root ball and the bottom drainage layer, then cut off the overly dense fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root ball, taking care to check for and remove rotten roots and root nodules, keeping the protective soil around the roots so the ball does not break apart; in total, no more than 1/2 of the old potting soil should be removed. Then place them in a cold cellar for heeled-in storage, and pot them in new soil the following spring. For those kept over winter in a cold room or in a plastic-film cold frame, the new soil can be used to plant them into the original pot, with the key points of operation the same as for repotting into a larger pot. After changing the soil, water once thoroughly, and they can be moved into the cold room or cold frame for care.
4. Water and fertilizer
During the growing period, potted Chinese roses should be watered in good time as needed, keeping the potting soil moist at all times. In hot, dry weather, spray water on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh; in cold weather, spray water on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh; in cold weather, control water, but the potting soil must not dry out completely. Fertilization should be based on the fertilizer preferences of different varieties and the needs of each stage of growth and development, as well as temperature, light and the strength of growth, applying base fertilizer or top dressing at the right time and in the right amount.
Pruning techniques
Promptly cutting off spent flowers of the Chinese rose is the only way to concentrate its nutrients and keep the plant strong and flowering without decline. If spent flowers are not removed in time, the several axillary buds right below the spent flower often sprout and form weak branches. These small branches both consume nutrients and ruin the plant shape, and even if they can flower, they are mostly deformed or inferior small flowers. In addition, except for flowers from which seed is to be collected, spent flowers must never be allowed to set seed.
After the first flush of flowers, medium branches should be cut back to a middle length, keeping 3 to 4 buds on the branch; weak branches should be cut back hard, keeping 1 to 2 buds; strong branches should be pruned lightly, keeping 5 buds, appropriately restraining growth. The second pruning should be light, cutting only just above the second leaf below the spent flower and keeping the axillary bud of the second leaf; this is a bud with the best advantages in both growth and development, and it occupies the dominant position on the whole plant, so cutting off this bud will affect the next flowering period, flower quality and the plant's growth.
After the beginning of autumn, post-bloom pruning (the third flush of flowers) uses middle cutting, keeping 3 to 4 buds on each branch. To take account of the balance of the plant shape, you can also cut back down to the branch that bore the previous flush of flowers. Overlapping branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches and leggy branches should be cut off, to favor ventilation and light penetration and a well-proportioned plant shape.
At the same time, post-bloom pruning of Chinese roses should also be combined with controlling the flowering period. For Chinese roses to be used for National Day, prune 45 days before flowering, cutting back to a middle length and keeping 3 to 4 buds; afterward 2 small branches will sprout on each branch. After pruning, strengthen fertilizer and water, take care to prevent waterlogging and powdery mildew, and the flowers will open one after another in late September.
In addition, pruning can make floribunda roses flower earlier or later. Light pruning of this type of rose can keep more mature branches and make the plant flower two weeks earlier; hard pruning can make the plant produce sturdy branches that flower in autumn and delay the autumn flowers by two weeks. Therefore, considering the whole, different pruning can be used on the plant to advance or extend the flowering period.
Cultivation methods of Chinese roses and methods to promote flowering
Chinese roses have large flowers and many blooms and need much fertilizer, so fertilizer should be applied generously; sufficient organic fertilizer should be applied before budding. For potted Chinese roses, the potting soil should be changed once in early spring; the potting soil formula is: (loam) 5 : (leaf mold) 2 : (rotted manure) 2 : (sandy soil) 1, plus a small amount of rapeseed cake, mixed evenly. After that, apply top dressing once every 10 to 15 days. For top dressing, liquid fertilizer made by composting cake fertilizer with phosphate fertilizer and diluted with water can be used; especially after the peak bloom in May, fertilizer should be applied in time to promote summer and autumn flowering. [6]
In the growing season, Chinese roses should receive full sunlight, preferably 8 hours of light per day; if kept indoors for viewing, they should be moved in before 11 a.m. and moved out before 4 p.m., thus receiving the soft light around midday, which helps prolong the flowering time.
Chinese roses enter a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and an average temperature of 20 to 25°C is most favorable for growth, so in summer appropriate shading and frequent water spraying should be carried out. To lower the temperature and supplement moisture, in the growing season it is best to spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon, creating a moist environment and promoting the growth of flowers and leaves.
After a Chinese rose flowers, it should be cut off below the third compound leaf under the flower, to encourage sturdy new branches and early flower buds and blooming. The key points of pruning technique are: weak, short branches are pruned first and pruned high; sturdy branches are pruned later and pruned short, so as to encourage the weak and restrain the strong and promote uniform flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed 1/2, to avoid delayed sprouting of axillary buds. In addition, too many flowers should not be kept per flush; for potted Chinese roses 3 to 5 flowers is appropriate, while for field-grown Chinese roses it depends on the strength of the plant. If too many flowers are kept, the nutrients are too dispersed, the flowers are small, and the next flush of flowers is affected. [7]
Fresh-cut techniques
Chinese roses should be cut when the temperature is low and the humidity high. If Chinese roses are cut too early, the flowers often do not open normally after cutting. Generally they are cut 1 to 2 days before flowering. The cutting time is related to the variety; usually when 4 to 6 petals have loosened the flower bud, they can be cut. Sometimes it is found that after cutting, the flower bud of the cut Chinese rose droops prematurely before it has opened; this situation is mainly due to cutting too early at the bud stage, when the calyx is still tightly wrapping the flower bud. It is best to cut when the sepals form a 90° angle with the petals. When cutting, the branch should have 5 internodes or a somewhat longer length, but there must be at least two buds on the branch. One hour after cutting, insert them in water to absorb water, then grade by length, tie in bundles of 10, and wrap in cellophane. Cut Chinese roses have a short vase life and do not tolerate long-distance transport. If the cut Chinese roses are not to be sold on the market, they should immediately be put into low-temperature storage; the storage temperature is 1 to 2°C, and it is best to insert them in water for wet storage. The water quality for wet storage is very important; a low pH value is favorable for cut Chinese roses. Take care not to insert the leaves into the water as well. The freshness-promoting agent in the holding container is a mixed liquid composed of silver thiosulfate and aluminum sulfate. Usually the vase solution for keeping Chinese roses fresh is called the Cornell formula. To overcome the bent-neck phenomenon of Chinese roses, cobalt acetate at a mass fraction of 360×10E-6 can be added to the preservative. In addition, diammonium ethyl phosphoramidate can prevent red Chinese rose cut flowers from rotting and wilting early.
Propagation methods of Chinese roses
Mostly cutting propagation is used; division and layering propagation are also possible. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are preferable; for softwood cuttings in summer, attention must be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise rooting is difficult. Winter cuttings are generally taken in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel; if taken in the open field, measures to increase moisture retention must be taken. Propagation by sowing is used for sexual cross-breeding. For the few famous varieties that are difficult to root, grafting is used, and the rootstock is preferably wild rose. For example, the yellow series varieties.
Management
Transplanting of Chinese roses is carried out between November and March of the following year; pruning can be done at the same time as transplanting. First cut off dense branches and dead branches, then cut off old and weak branches, keeping 2 to 3 outward-growing buds so that the plant spreads out in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth of weak branches. In summer, when new branches grow too densely, thinning should be carried out. After each flush of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the spent flower, so that it does not set seed and consume nutrients, keep the full middle and lower parts of the branch, and promote early new growth and flowering again. Chinese roses like a heavy application of base fertilizer before flowering and a top dressing of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer after flowering to strengthen the seedlings and force flowers. Chinese roses have strict water requirements and must not be too wet or too dry; too dry and they wither, too wet and the roots are damaged and the leaves fall.
Grafting
Cutting is the main method, with sowing and tissue culture as supplements. Commonly used grafting rootstocks include: wild rose, Rosa multiflora, "Baiyutang" (rose), etc.
For field planting of Chinese roses, choose a spot sheltered from wind, facing the sun and with good drainage; besides a heavy application of base fertilizer, top dressing should also be applied during the growing season. Pruning is an important task; besides dormant-season pruning, attention should also be paid during the growing season to bud removal, cutting off spent flower branches and removing rootstock suckers. Greenhouse cultivation is mainly for the production purpose of supplying cut flowers, usually planted at a spacing of 30 cm × 30 cm, with the night temperature kept at 15 to 17°C and the daytime temperature at 21 to 25°C. Potted Chinese roses can be used for indoor viewing. The key points of their cultivation and management are: loose potting soil, an appropriate pot diameter, moderate moisture, light fertilizer applied frequently, removing flowers and pruning branches, preventing and controlling pests and diseases, and changing the pot every year.
Grafting is one of the most widely used methods for propagating Chinese roses. Grafting belongs to the category of asexual reproduction; it joins parts of two plants into one whole, which continues to grow as a single plant. In the grafted combination, the upper part is called the scion, and the part that bears the scion is called the rootstock. Some Chinese rose varieties are few in number and have striking flower colors, but their own-root seedlings have weak root systems and grow extremely slowly; grafting them onto vigorous rootstocks makes these Chinese rose varieties grow strongly and increases their disease resistance.
Grafting can also faithfully reflect the various traits of the original variety, with very strong heredity and stability. Through practical observation, for plants formed by growth and development after grafting, from the day of grafting to the opening of the first flower, the fastest takes only 23 days, and individual plants can even flower 1 to 2 days earlier; most grafted plants usually take about 40 to 45 days to flower. This shows that compared with cutting, grafting can advance the flowering time.
Taking the Beijing area as an example: on June 15, 2012, grafting and cutting were done on the same day; about 20% of the grafted plants could flower around July 25, while only about 10% of the cutting seedlings flowered around September 20 or even later. This shows that the advantage of grafting is very strong. Of course, graft propagation is complex to operate and has high technical requirements. The specific issues of graft propagation are set out one by one below.
Factors affecting graft survival
1. Selection of rootstock:
For grafting Chinese roses, a suitable grafting rootstock must first be selected. The rootstock not only bears the role of mechanical support and of absorbing and conducting water and nutrients; it also controls the plant's function of absorbing organic matter and is responsible for the manufacture of various enzymes and the storage of nutrients, and it has a great influence on the various characteristics of the stems, leaves, flowers and fruits of the upper part of the plant. Of course, the scion in turn also plays an important role in the growth and development of the rootstock's root system. Various experiments have proved that the quality of the rootstock is one of the important factors determining whether an ideal grafted Chinese rose seedling can be produced. The rootstocks usually used are roses and their varieties, such as "Fentuan" rose, "Manetti" rose, Dutch rose and Japanese thornless rose, etc. These rose species have well-developed root systems and resistance to cold and drought, and have strong compatibility with the grafted varieties and stable heredity.
2. Grafting compatibility between rootstock and scion:
Grafting compatibility refers to the similarity of the internal tissue structure, hereditary and physiological characteristics of the rootstock and scion. Through grafting it can promote the plant to heal and survive and to be physiologically suited after survival. The manifestations of weak compatibility and strong compatibility are relatively complex. Generally speaking, the closer the kinship, the stronger the compatibility. Compatibility is strongest between the same variety or the same species. Grafting compatibility between different species of the same genus varies with the kind.
3. The cambium of both rootstock and scion:
The cambium parts of both rootstock and scion must be in close contact over a fairly large area; this is one of the factors in graft survival. Theoretically, complete alignment of the cambium of both rootstock and scion is the most ideal grafting result, but in actual operation this is very hard to achieve; one can only strive to achieve the largest possible area of contact.
4. Temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions at the time of grafting:
Temperature is a necessary condition for cell activity; only cell activity, including cell division, can promote the growth of the scion.
Generally, different varieties of Chinese roses can all make cells grow rapidly within a temperature range of 13 to 32°C. When grafting outdoors, choose the period of the year with the above temperatures and with the cambium in vigorous activity. Such conditions generally occur in spring, early summer and September and October. The callus tissue grown by the cambium is composed of thin-walled, plump cells, which easily lose water and dry out, causing the scion to dry up and die. Therefore the union must be bound tightly to preserve the moisture of the tissue. The rapid division of the callus cells is often accompanied by respiration, and at this time oxygen is indispensable. Therefore binding the union with plastic tape has the dual effect of preserving water and promoting respiration.
5. The quality of the rootstock and scion:
Judging by the growth pattern of the rootstock and by a comparison of its cutting seedlings and seedling plants, choosing a one-year-old seedling plant as the rootstock for grafting Chinese roses is relatively ideal, because it has a well-developed root system, strong disease resistance, a smooth main stem and moderate thickness. Of course, using cutting seedlings for grafting also has its advantages, such as a short cutting time and easy rooting.
Grafting techniques
1. Disinfection of the knife before grafting: when grafting, while ensuring that the cambium of the rootstock and scion are aligned, it must also be ensured that the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion are flat. The binding action must be nimble and quick, so as to avoid the cut surface oxidizing and changing color.
2. Selection and storage of scions: the selection of Chinese rose scions is directly related to the survival quality of the grafted seedlings and to whether sturdy grafted plants can be formed. Stored scions can be taken out for grafting at any time, saving the trouble of collecting them just before grafting, saving a great deal of time, and allowing grafting at any time. For the selection and storage of scions, note the following points:
(1). The scion wood must be healthy and free of pests and diseases; if it has powdery mildew, black spot or red spider, etc., it must not be used.
(2). Usually one-year-old or less-than-one-year-old post-flowering scion wood can be chosen; counting from the second axillary bud below the bract, the whole flowering branch can be used as scion wood. Flowering branches vary in length, from 150 cm long to about 10 cm short, and the number of graft buds they contain varies; sometimes on the same scion branch the plumpness and fullness of the graft buds differ from one another, so buds must be selected individually. Overall, the graft buds taken from the middle part of the scion branch are the most suitable for grafting and give the best survival rate.
(3). As long as the scion has plump graft buds, it can be stored for later use at any time of the year; of course, in summer it should be refrigerated, and in winter it can be stored in sand. The time for refrigeration and sand storage must not be too long. Usually the number of scions refrigerated and stored in sand should be roughly equal to the number of rootstock plants. Or the number refrigerated or stored in sand can be determined by the grafting speed. The prerequisite for refrigeration and sand storage is that moisture and temperature must be appropriately maintained; only with appropriate moisture and temperature can the scion wood's normal physiological activity be maintained. Practice has proved that scientific refrigeration and sand storage are conducive to the survival rate and survival quality of grafting.
Grafting season
According to the growth habits and growth patterns of Chinese roses, grafting can be carried out at any time of the year, but specific situations must be analyzed specifically. When the temperature reaches above 33°C, the survival rate of grafting is relatively lower; below 5°C the grafted plants are in a dormant state, so using the winter dormant period for grafting is suitable.
Grafting methods
According to actual production and the mainstream methods of grafting Chinese roses, the grafting methods for Chinese roses can be divided into chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, large-open-door budding, and rootless rootstock grafting.
1. Chip budding with wood:
(1). On the sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a single-edge safety razor blade to cut a shield-shaped incision 1 to 2 cm long at an oblique angle of 30 to 40°. Then, in the same way and of the same size, select a plump, full graft bud on the scion wood and insert it into the prepared rootstock incision, and bind it firmly from bottom to top with a white plastic tape of moderate elasticity and width, pressing the edges ring by ring, with moderate tightness.
(2). When inserting the graft bud into the incision, the cambium should be aligned over as large an area as possible, so that the xylem of the rootstock is not exposed. This method is simple, convenient and quick, with a relatively high survival rate, but it has high technical requirements; one must master the technique of matching rootstock and scion in one go.
2. T-shaped budding: T-shaped budding is likewise a popular method in Chinese rose grafting production.
(1). Use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut on the branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, about 5 to 8 mm wide, with a depth just reaching the xylem; then make a vertical cut downward from the middle of the horizontal cut, about 1.5 to 2 cm long, so that the bark forms a T-shaped opening.
(2). Cut the scion wood from the mother plant, remove the leaf blades but keep the petioles, select a plump, full graft bud, and use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.5 cm above it, going about 3 mm deep into the xylem; then use the knife to push-cut upward from about 0.5 cm below the graft bud, just reaching the xylem, up to the incision above the graft bud.
(3). Use the knife to lift open the bark of the T-shaped incision on the rootstock, insert the graft bud into the incision; after insertion make fine adjustments, aligning the horizontal cut of the graft bud with the horizontal cut of the rootstock without exposing the rootstock cambium; placing it in position in one go is most ideal. Once the graft bud is properly placed, bind it with plastic tape; when binding, the graft bud must be left exposed. Although this method seems cumbersome and time-consuming, once skilled in operation one plant can be grafted within one minute, and the graft survival rate is extremely high and the survival quality excellent.
3. Large-open-door budding: the large-open-door budding method is also a very popular grafting method; it has high technical requirements, and the incisions of rootstock and scion must not be exposed for too long. The key points of operation are as follows:
(1). On the smooth, branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut, with a depth just reaching the xylem; then align with one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm long, then at the other end of the horizontal cut make another cut in the same way. Both cuts should be just deep enough to reach the xylem. Then make another horizontal cut about 0.5 cm below the horizontal cut, and use the knife to remove the small square piece of bark that has been cut off, exposing the xylem, then lift it open with the knife.
(2). Remove the leaf blades from the scion wood but keep the petioles, select a plump, full graft bud, use the knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.3 cm above the graft bud, then align with one end of the horizontal cut and make a vertical cut downward 1.5 to 2 cm long, then at the other end of the horizontal cut make another vertical cut in the same way, then align with the two vertical cuts and make a horizontal cut, forming a rectangular bud plate with the graft bud; all four cuts should be deep enough to reach the xylem.
(3). Use the knife or hand to lift open the bark of the rootstock and insert the graft bud quickly, making fine adjustments. Align the two horizontal cuts of rootstock and scion, and bind with plastic tape, with moderate tightness. With this grafting method, the contact area of the cambium of rootstock and scion is large and the nutrient supply is rapid, which can greatly increase the survival rate and survival quality.
(4). Rootless rootstock grafting: rootless rootstock grafting is grafting onto new, already lignified rootless rose branches, followed by cutting propagation. This method of Chinese rose graft propagation meets the needs of factory-style, specialized and large-scale production, and is not restricted by season. Carrying out all-weather assembly-line production indoors can greatly increase production efficiency, survival rate and survival quality. Rootless rootstock grafting can adopt several of the above methods: chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, and large-open-door budding. When using this method to propagate in summer, the graft bud must bear 1 to 2 leaves, and after cutting, moisture-retention care is carried out. If rootless rootstock grafting and cutting are carried out in a greenhouse in winter, the greenhouse temperature at night must not be lower than 5°C; for cutting in a cold frame, cold-protection measures must be strengthened to avoid frost damage.
Whether rootless rootstock grafting is carried out in summer or in winter, after grafting the cuttings should be planted at a sparser density than ordinary Chinese rose cuttings. When cutting, the cuttings should all lean 70° toward the north, with the graft bud side facing the sunny spot. Technical requirements: spacing of 5 cm × 5 cm, cutting depth of about 3 cm.
Pest and disease control of Chinese roses
1. Slug moths
Mainly the larvae of the yellow slug moth, the brown-edged green slug moth, the beautiful brown slug moth, the mulberry brown slug moth and the flat slug moth, which in the hot season eat large quantities of leaves. Control method: once found, immediately spray with 800-fold 90% trichlorfon crystal, or spray with 2.5% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 15 00.
2. Scale insects
Mainly the white wax scale, the Japanese wax scale, the red wax scale, the brown soft scale, the cottony cushion scale, the chaff scale, the snake-eye scale, etc. Their damage is characterized by piercing and sucking the sap of the tender stems and young leaves of Chinese roses, causing poor plant growth; it is mainly induced by high temperature and humidity, poor ventilation and insufficient light. Control method: during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray with 2000-fold 25% buprofezin wettable powder.
3. Aphids
Mainly the Chinese rose aphid, the green peach aphid, etc. They pierce and suck the sap of the plant's young, tender organs, damaging tender stems, young leaves and flower buds, etc., and seriously affecting the plant's growth and flowering. Control method: promptly spray with 2000-fold 10% imidacloprid wettable powder.
4. Rose three-spined sawfly
Mostly in the larval stage, dozens or more than a hundred gather in groups to cause damage, and in a short time can eat all the young leaves of the plant, leaving only a few main veins, seriously harming the plant's normal growth. Control method: for a small number of potted plants, when they first appear, pick the leaves on which large numbers of larvae have gathered and trample them to death. If large numbers appear, spray with 4000-fold 75% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate.
5. Carmine spider mite
It can occur 10 to 16 generations a year; adult mites, young mites and nymphs gather on the underside of leaves to pierce and suck and cause damage, and eggs are mostly laid on both sides of the leaf veins on the underside of the leaves or under gathered fine silk webs. Each female mite can lay 50 to 150 eggs, up to 500 at most; the time to complete one generation is only 10 to 13 days at a temperature of 23 to 25°C, and about 7 to 8 days at 28°C. It breaks out rampantly in hot, dry seasons, often causing large numbers of dense small white spots on the upper side of the leaves, with the underside of the leaves turning yellow and occasionally bearing blighted spots. Control method: once found, promptly spray with 2000-fold 25% pyridaben wettable powder.
6. Scarab beetles
Mainly the copper-green scarab, the black velvet scarab, the white-spotted flower scarab, the small green flower scarab, etc., which often use the adults to gnaw new leaves, tender shoots and flower buds, seriously affecting the plant's growth and flowering. Control method: take advantage of the adults' death-feigning behavior and shake them off in the evening to catch and kill them. Take advantage of the adults' phototaxis and use black light lamps to trap and kill them. When the adults are feeding and causing damage, spray with 1000-fold 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate.
7. Borers
The Chinese rose borer is the larva of the Chinese rose stem sawfly; it bores holes in the stem, drills into the stem and gnaws, causing the branch to break and the upper part to die. The larva is white in body, with a pale yellow head, and about 15 to 17 mm long. The adult has wings, is black, with yellow on both sides of the abdomen. The pupa is vermilion red. Usually 1 generation occurs a year, causing damage in May to June, and it pupates inside the stem to overwinter; it is a relatively serious pest. Black spot: mainly attacks leaves, petioles and tender shoots; when the leaf first becomes diseased, small purple-brown to brown spots appear on the upper side, and after they enlarge they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, daconil and other agents can be sprayed.
8. Powdery mildew
It attacks young leaves, with white powdery material appearing on both sides; the early symptoms are not obvious. Three to 5 days after the powdery layer appears, the leaves become water-soaked and gradually lose green and turn yellow; when the damage is severe it causes the leaves to fall. Spraying carbendazim or triadimefon at the onset of the disease is sufficient, but Guoguang Yingna has the best effect.
9. Leaf blight
It mostly invades at the leaf tip or leaf edge; at first there are small yellow spots, which then rapidly spread inward into irregular large lesions; on severely affected leaves, 2/3 of the whole leaf withers, the diseased part loses green and turns yellow, and dries up brown and falls off. To control the above diseases, besides strengthening fertilizer and water management, diseased branches and leaves should be cut off in winter, fallen leaves on the ground cleared away, and the sources of initial infection reduced; when the disease occurs, integrated control should be adopted, and carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl and other fungicides sprayed.
10. Black spot
It mainly attacks leaves, petioles and tender shoots; when the leaf first becomes diseased, small purple-brown to brown spots appear on the upper side, and after they enlarge they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, daconil and other agents can be sprayed.
Variety classification of Chinese roses: overview of classification
Among the angiosperms, in the class Dicotyledoneae, the three outstanding members of the Rosaceae - rose, Chinese rose and Rosa multiflora - are in fact all plants of the genus Rosa. In Chinese, people are accustomed to calling varieties with large flower diameter and solitary flowers Chinese rose, those with small flowers growing in clusters Rosa multiflora, and those from which essence can be extracted rose. But in English they can all be collectively called rose. According to officially registered varieties, there are about thirty thousand roses. In fact, the more than 200 major varieties under the genus Rosa are all called rose abroad, and in Taiwan, China they are all called rose.
Main types
The main types of Chinese rose include edible rose, climbing rose (CI series), large-flowered hybrid tea rose (cut-flower roses are mainly large-flowered hybrid tea roses) (HT series), floribunda rose (polyantha rose) (F/FI series), miniature rose (Min series), tree rose, grandiflora rose (Gr series), shrub rose (sh series), ground-cover rose (Gc series), etc.
Climbing rose (CI series)
A new star in landscaping - the climbing rose is a climbing shrub of the genus Rosa in the subfamily Rosoideae, and the plant is relatively tall. Every year it sends up thick new branches from the base, and thicker lateral branches grow from the tips of the two-year-old climbing branches. It has the habit of flowering in all four seasons, but the largest number of flowers is in the two seasons of late spring or early summer. It is a climbing growth type, with a well-developed root system and extremely strong resistance; the branches sprout quickly and the growth is strong. One plant sprouts 7 to 8 main branches a year, and each main branch in turn branches in an open pattern; the highest annual growth can reach 5 m, and it has a very strong ability to resist diseases.
It is extensively managed, tolerant of pruning, rich in flower forms, and flowers continuously in all four seasons (some are also one-season or two-season flowering types), with brilliant, unrestrained flower colors, a long flowering period and a rich fragrance. The flower colors include vermilion, bright red, fresh red, pink, golden yellow, orange yellow, bicolor and pure white, etc.; it sprouts at the internodes of two-year-old wood and flowers all over the plant, with numerous flower heads, and can form landscapes such as flower balls, flower columns, flower walls, flower seas, flower waterfalls, arch shapes and corridor shapes.
Cut-flower Chinese roses
The varieties include:
1. Red series: Royal Carriage, Dushutai, Uncle Walter (a classic variety), Orange-red Flame, Vermilion Queen, Chang'e Flying to the Moon, Summer Camp, Mozart, etc.
2. Yellow series: Spectrum (a classic variety), Jubilation, Changhong, Golden Sunshine, King of Light, etc.
3. Pink series: Pink Fan, Orchid Moon, Parade (a classic variety), Angela, etc.
4. White series: Baihe, Climbing Green Cloud.
5. Bicolor series: Eden Rose (a classic variety), Flower Fairy, Colorful Cloud, Flying Tiger, Flower Soul, Climbing Electronic Watch, Purple Robe and Jade Belt (a classic variety), etc.
6. Orange series: Kunteng, Western Earth, Sweet Dream, Stream, etc.
Large-flowered hybrid tea rose (HT series)
There are numerous varieties, and it is the main body of modern Chinese roses. Its characteristics are: a sturdy plant, single or clustered flowers, large flowers, elegant and beautiful flower form, numerous, bright and lively flower colors, a fragrant scent, and strong ornamental value.
The varieties include:
1. White: Tinwalt, Kennedy (classic variety), Wedding White, First White, White Satin, Green Cloud, Titanic (classic variety), White Christmas (classic variety), White Wine, etc.
2. Yellow: Golden Phoenix, Ohio Gold, Gold Medal, Rhine Gold (classic variety), Gold Award, Solido, Green Field, Princess Kent, etc.
3. Red: Crimson Fan, Star (classic variety), Melon Lipstick, Cartel Card, Han Qian, Rose Center, Budapest Councilor, Fragrance Magic, Olympic Games, Fragrant Cloud, etc.
4. Blue: Blue Moon (classic variety), Blue Peace, Sapphire, Blue Ribbon (classic variety), Jacaranda, Blue Perfume (classic variety), Blue River (classic variety), Paradise, etc.
5. Black-red: Mister Lincoln (classic variety, one of the 10 most fragrant rose varieties, a grandiflora fragrant rose variety, the standard rose for rose judging), Warrior, Great Purple Light, Black Whirlwind, Porphyry, Black Pearl, Vermilion and Ink Double Glow, etc.
6. Green: Green Star, Green Calyx.
7. Orange: Jesta, Joey, Quintley, Golden Bull, Maxina, Grand Medal, etc.
8. Pink: Pink Fan, Pink Peace (classic variety), First-Class Lady, Japanese Pink, Drunken Fragrant Wine, Chuck Red, Tang Red, etc.
9. Bicolor: Peace (classic variety), Fire Peace, Chicago Peace (classic variety), Double Delight (classic variety, the first of the 10 most fragrant rose varieties), Home of Greece (fragrant) (classic variety), Melon Capriccio, Love, My Choice, Light of Peace, Chicoco, Modern Art, Princess of Monaco, Colorful Cloud, Garivada, Float, etc.
Floribunda roses (F/FI series)
Floribunda roses have an expanding growth habit, with flower heads forming clusters. They are cold-resistant, heat-resistant, drought-resistant, waterlogging-resistant, and disease-resistant, with extremely strong adaptability to the environment. They are widely used in urban environmental greening, landscaping flower beds, highways, etc.
Miniature roses (Min series)
A new variety in the rose family, with a short, spherical plant shape and numerous flower heads. Because of its unique characteristics, it is also called "diamond rose." It is mainly used for potted ornamental display, decorating lawns, and arranging color patterns.
Tree roses
Tree roses, also known as rose trees or rose standards, are achieved through more than two grafting procedures to reach a standard upright trunk and crown. Current tree rose specifications (height 0.4-2.0 m, trunk diameter 1-5 cm).
Advantages: Good ornamental effect, unique shape, noble and elegant, with distinct layers, visually refreshing; diverse forms include spherical, fan-shaped, cascading, and miniature; it retains the advantages of general roses such as strong fragrance, long blooming period, and diverse flower colors, while appearing more novel, more noble, and more passionate, thus possessing higher aesthetic value.
Habits: Strong adaptability. The flower crown of tree roses is farther from the ground than ordinary flowers, making them less susceptible to soil-borne pests and diseases; the trunk is derived from briar rose, with a well-developed root system and extremely strong vitality as a Rosaceae rose. Especially in areas with high alkalinity where growing ordinary roses is difficult, tree roses fill that gap.
Ground-cover roses (Gc series)
The newest ecological vegetation flower - ground-cover roses, whose growth characteristics are:
Creeping and expanding growth habit, height not exceeding 20 cm. Each plant produces more than 50 branches per year, branches root upon touching the ground, and each branch blooms 50-100 flowers at a time.
Well-developed root system, with the deepest roots reaching more than 2 m.
Large coverage area, with a single plant covering more than 1 sq m.
Strong communal flowering, blooming continuously throughout all four seasons.
Its biological habits are:
Drought-tolerant, able to grow in areas with annual rainfall of 150-200 mm.
Tolerant of barren soil, slopes, and deep shade; can be planted and grow in areas where irrigation is difficult.
Tolerant of high temperature and high humidity; can grow normally at low temperatures of -30°C and high temperatures of 42°C.
Low-maintenance management, strong disease resistance, no need for pesticide application or pruning, reducing a large amount of management costs.
Remarkable effect in arranging color blocks and roadside strips. Ground-cover roses have deep roots and lush leaves, with large spreading branches and leaves, and strong leaf surface respiration. They have a high absorption rate of urban dust and harmful substances, making them an excellent choice for water conservation and soil erosion prevention.
Varieties include: Bazino, Ground Cover No. 1, Hardford Jun, Rose Carpet, Kent, New Olympic, etc., Flower Carpet.
Peace rose
The Peace rose was bred by Frenchman Francis Meilland in 1939 under the iron heel of fascism. He sent this rose to the United States under the code number 3-35-40. After American horticulturist Robert Pyle received this variety that had crossed the ocean, he immediately distributed it to important nurseries across the northern and southern United States for propagation. A few years later, this new variety made a comeback and caused a sensation throughout America. In 1945, the American Pacific Rose Society named this variety Peace and declared: We firmly believe that this most remarkable new rose variety of our time should be named after the greatest wish of the world's people today - "Peace." We believe that the Peace rose will serve as a model and grow forever in the gardens of our descendants. On the day the Peace rose was named, it happened to coincide with the Allied forces capturing Berlin and Hitler's downfall. When the Peace rose received the All-American award, it coincided with the unconditional surrender of the imperialists. When the United Nations was founded and held its first meeting in San Francisco, every delegate's room had a vase containing a bouquet of Peace roses presented by the American Rose Society. A note on it read: We hope the "Peace" rose can influence people's thinking and give the world lasting peace. During World War II, fascist bandits in a village called Lidice, fourteen kilometers from Prague, killed one hundred and seventy-five men over the age of fifteen and imprisoned women and children in concentration camps. After the war, to commemorate these people, many rose experts and voluntary donors built a rose garden here in 1955, with the main variety being the Peace rose.
Red Hat rose
Product name: Red Hat rose
Category: Flowering shrubs -> Red Hat rose
Product introduction: Red Hat rose scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Family and genus: Rosaceae
Climbing roses
Distribution: Native to Hubei, Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangsu, Guangdong and other provinces, now commonly cultivated everywhere, with the original species and the ever-blooming red being the most common. The original species and most varieties were introduced abroad as early as the early 18th century, becoming important original materials for modern rose hybrid breeding.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen or semi-evergreen upright shrub, usually with hooked prickles. Leaflets 3-5 cm, broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, apex pointed, margins sharply serrate, glabrous on both sides, surface glossy; petioles and rachis sparsely bearing prickles and short glandular hairs, stipules mostly adnate to the petiole, margins with glandular cilia. Flowers often several in clusters, rarely solitary, about 5 cm in diameter, deep red, pink, to nearly white, slightly fragrant; sepals often pinnately lobed, margins glandular-hairy; pedicels mostly slender, with glandular hairs. Fruit ovate to spherical, 1.5-2 cm long, red. Blooming period late April to October; fruit ripening period September to November.
Variety evolution
Breeding and variety evolution: The process of rose breeding and variety evolution is divided into three independent periods. In these three periods, breeding methods were relatively different, but the theme of breeding based on genetic changes was common to all. The three periods are divided as follows:
1. Early period (prehistoric to 1875)
2. Modern period (1875-1967)
3. Contemporary period (1967 to present)
The first period lasted about 5,000 years. By 1875, Mendel published his famous laws of hybridization and inheritance, and people's rose breeding also developed into directed cross-breeding. From that time on, most rose breeders considered breeding issues from the perspective of Mendelian inheritance or qualitative inheritance, while quantitative inheritance or weighted inheritance behavior in breeding was still little known or rarely applied at that time.
The outline of rose breeding in the first period is as follows:
1. Numerous rose species were collected and all planted together.
2. Only very few species contributed to rose breeding in the second period.
3. Intraspecific hybridization was a naturally occurring process.
4. New varieties came only from natural pollination.
5. Rose breeding work was concentrated in Western Europe and the United States.
6. The natural evolutionary trend was from diploid to tetraploid.
7. A primitive, enormous gene pool was formed.
8. Domestication reduced genetic resources.
9. Rose varieties before 1875 were inferred.
The second period began with the application of directed techniques and ended in 1967. From 1967 onward, molecular biology techniques began to be applied in roses. This period lasted 90 years.
The third period began in 1967 and has already gone through more than 30 years.
The beginning of rose breeding: Early gardening people selected superior types from wild roses and planted them together. As early as prehistoric times, several rose species or several domesticated varieties among them were cultivated in China, Persia, Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece, and Italy, far earlier than the first year of the Common Era. In ancient horticulture, it is unclear whether roses were propagated by seed or vegetatively, but over more than 5,000 years, a large number of new varieties appeared through sowing seeds obtained from natural pollination.
The domestication of varieties and the production of intraspecific hybrids was a long process. Some undesirable primitive types were discarded, vegetative propagation techniques were developed, and the progress of domestication accelerated. Through introduction by travelers and variety replacement, horticulturists obtained new genetic resources (any domesticated species has very small genetic changes). Early breeders knew that planting one variety together with other varieties had a great influence on offspring, and they retained considerable data on mother plants and new varieties, enabling us to confirm the evolutionary process of some varieties. However, breeders at that time still did not understand that paternal characteristics would be passed on to the next generation through pollination. At that time, some diploid varieties also evolved into tetraploid varieties. Almost all modern rose varieties are tetraploids. It is worth noting that within some continuously blooming varieties, vitality increases with the increase in ploidy. If this knowledge had been understood earlier, it might have stimulated breeders of that period to take an interest in directionally breeding tetraploid new varieties from diploids.
The China rose (Rosa chinensis), native to China, played a more important role in the breeding of new Western European rose varieties than any other rose species. It brought to new varieties the previously unknown characteristics of continuous blooming and shrubby growth. Multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora) was also a very important parent, bringing the umbel inflorescence characteristic to roses.
In the second period, research in biomolecules achieved unprecedented development. However, there was not much scientific research on roses, as can be seen from the past two journals, Plant Breeding and Horticultural Abstracts, in which among thousands of articles each year, very few were about roses. Scientific research work on roses was mainly concentrated on classification cytology, physiology, morphology, growth conditions, variety and rootstock research. The goals of breeding research were trait inheritance, simplification of hybrid breeding procedures, and improvement of direct and indirect selection rates. Research on low-energy-consumption and pest- and disease-resistant varieties was relatively scarce and far behind that of fruit trees. For example, almost all breeding work was confined to universities or research institutes.
In the second period, there were two major discoveries. First, the breeding of continuously blooming, large-flowered varieties, which was achieved by Pernet in 1900. It marked the first success in directed interspecific hybridization breeding of roses.
The second major achievement was in 1920, the breeding of the ancient compact variety "pompon de paris." This new type was rediscovered in Switzerland, now named R. roulettii Corre von, and is the origin of some modern miniature roses.
In the early part of the second period, people discovered a large number of gene types in roses. Faced with abundant genetic resources, breeders of the second period seized the opportunity; some parents were selected and retained, others were discarded, hybrid breeding techniques were further developed, and indoor hybrid breeding began. Many different original parents could be crossed with each other, and as a result, the originally clear boundaries between different species disappeared.
In the 1930s, roses were divided into greenhouse roses and open-field roses. Encouraged by the demand for both types of varieties, breeders began to select and breed types suitable for their respective specific environments. Today, breeders mainly focus on the first type, because the quality of greenhouse varieties is 3-5 times that of open-field varieties, making greenhouse varieties particularly noteworthy. Because there have always been abundant genetic resources among varieties, breeders have been quite successful in breeding work for both types. Gradually, some types suitable for greenhouse production were bred, including some small-flowered, medium-flowered, and large-flowered varieties.
Overall, there is no methodological difference in the selection and breeding of greenhouse roses and open-field roses. When it comes to methods or breeding procedures, breeders mostly use passive methods to select their seedlings. During the selection process, about 99% of seedlings are eliminated. This method of strict selection from tens of thousands of seedlings each year continued for nearly 100 years, which inevitably led to serious gene loss. Worse still, almost every breeder selected the same traits, thus applying the same selection criteria.
Differences from roses (Rosa rugosa)
Rosa rugosa has tall stems, mostly straight thorns, small flowers, a single flower color, and a short blooming period. Rose (Rosa chinensis) branches are upright, flower colors are rich, and it is fragrant. Rosa rugosa leaflets are also 5-9 in number, but the leaf surface is wrinkled, the leaf underside is whitish with small prickles, and the entire leaf is relatively thick with sunken veins. Rosa chinensis stems are low and short, thorns are large, with roughly 3-4 hooks per node; flowers are large, flower colors are rich, fragrance is light or absent, leaflets are generally 3-5 in number, and leaf blades are flat and smooth.
The uses and effects of roses on the home environment
1. Placing a rose in your home gives you a home full of poetry. Different types of roses have different flower meanings. For example, the flower meaning and symbolic significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of white roses: respect, sublimity, purity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of green-white roses: innocence, simplicity, or a pure heart; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of black roses: individuality and creativity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing. Such an interesting flower, plant one, and it gives your whole home a new face.
2. The dark-colored appearance makes the owner feel more energetic. Usually, dark-colored things give people a visual impact. Imagine coming home and facing four white walls, with all the furniture you see being light-colored and very lifeless. If you suddenly see a vigorously growing rose beside the TV, the whole person will immediately perk up, because the visual sudden change lifts one's spirits, life becomes especially lively, and one feels particularly good.
3. The role of greening the home is also self-evident. Roses are evergreen or deciduous shrubs, with green branchlets, sparsely bearing prickles, and some are almost thornless. Leaf margins are serrate, glabrous on both sides, smooth, and stipules are connate with the petiole. Flowers grow at the tips of branches, often in clusters, rarely solitary, with many flower colors. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered but also single-flowered. Flowers have a slight fragrance. The fleshy rose hip, after ripening, turns red-yellow with the top splitting open; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. Such a beautiful rose continuously absorbs components in the air that are harmful to human life and releases oxygen beneficial to the human body, thus achieving its greening effect without one even realizing it.
Feng shui effects
First, planting roses in your own garden can make family members feel refreshed and energized. Roses are evergreen or deciduous shrubs, with green branchlets, sparsely bearing prickles, and some are almost thornless. Leaf margins are serrate, glabrous on both sides, smooth, and stipules are connate with the petiole. Flowers grow at the tips of branches, often in clusters, rarely solitary, with many flower colors. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered but also single-flowered. Flowers have a slight fragrance. The fleshy rose hip, after ripening, turns red-yellow with the top splitting open; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. Its bright red appearance makes people feel energized. At the same time, it should be noted that the rose is a relatively toxic plant, so we cannot plant it too close to us, such as in the living room and bedroom, and when planting in the garden, we should not plant too many, because its fragrance is toxic.
Then, plant a few roses in the backyard of your home, and the family's life becomes happier and happier. The flower meaning and symbolic significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of white roses: respect, sublimity, purity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of green-white roses: innocence, simplicity, or a pure heart; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of black roses: individuality and creativity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing. The symbolic meaning of roses is very clear. If a family lives together every day and looks at roses from afar, associating them with the meanings they represent, and thereby cherishing every day of living with family, happiness begins right there, and the home they live in together becomes a feng shui home.
Landscape uses of roses: landscaping
Roses have indispensable value in landscaping. Among flowers, roses are the most frequently used in gardens in both the north and south. Roses are the main ornamental flowers in spring. They have a long blooming period, high ornamental value, and low price, and are loved by gardens everywhere.
The "link" role
Because of their climbing growth characteristics, roses are mainly used for vertical greening and have a unique role in garden street scenes and beautifying flower environments. If they can form pleasing
purposeful corridors and flower pillars, made into various arches, grid shapes, and frame-style trellises for roses to climb on, and then properly pruned and shaped, they can decorate buildings and become a clever "link" connecting buildings and gardens
Environmental protection role
They can be made into continuous flower hedges, flower screens, and flower walls, used in government offices, schools, residential communities, urban squares, and other places. They can not only purify the air and beautify the environment but also greatly reduce noise pollution in surrounding areas and alleviate the urban greenhouse effect in hot summers.
Medicinal or therapeutic food value of roses
The medical information and health dietary information on Huahua Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health issues should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: To love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow a doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field within your heart.
Medicinal value
[Alternative names] Yueyuehong, Sijihua, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Changchunhua, Yueyuehua. Yanxuehong, Chouchunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Sijichun, Shouke.
[Definition]: The dried flowers of the Rosaceae plant Rosa chinensis.
[Collection]: Can be harvested throughout the year; picked when flowers are slightly open.
[Nature, flavor, and meridian entry]: Sweet, bland, slightly bitter, neutral. Enters the liver meridian.
[Efficacy]: Activates blood and regulates menstruation, soothes the liver and relieves depression, reduces swelling and detoxifies.
[Indications]: 1. Liver depression and blood stagnation, irregular menstruation, dysmenorrhea, amenorrhea, and distending pain in the chest and hypochondrium; 2. Traumatic injuries, blood stasis swelling and pain, carbuncles and toxic swellings, scrofula. [11]
[Commercial name] Yuejihua. Those with complete dried flower buds or newly opened flowers, bright color, and clear fragrance are considered superior.
[Prescription names] Yueji, Yuejihua, Yueyuehong, Sijihua.
Roses are not only ornamental flowers with a long blooming period, fragrance, and vivid colors, but also a good gynecological medicine. Traditional Chinese medicine believes that roses are sweet in flavor and warm in nature, and entering the liver meridian, they have the effects of activating blood and regulating menstruation, reducing swelling and detoxifying. Because roses have obvious effects in removing blood stasis, promoting qi flow, and relieving pain, they are often used to treat irregular menstruation, dysmenorrhea, and other conditions.
Clinical reports show that when women experience amenorrhea or scanty, pale, and reduced menstruation, lower abdominal pain, accompanied by poor spirits and dry bound stools, or when the above symptoms appear during the menstrual period, treatment with Shengchun Decoction is effective. The medicinal composition of Shengchun Decoction is: rose 10g, angelica 10g, salvia 10g, white peony 10g, add an appropriate amount of brown sugar, and decoct in clear water. The soup tastes sweet and fragrant, with no difficulty in swallowing. Take 3 doses 3-5 days before each menstrual period, each time boiling with one egg added, and the effect is reliable. It is indeed a wonderful formula for regulating menstruation, regulating qi, and activating blood.
The combination of rose and bitter orange flower is even more of a good formula for treating menstrual diseases caused by disharmony of qi and blood. Use 15g each of rose and bitter orange flower, decoct in water and take. Rose emphasizes activating blood, while bitter orange flower tends toward promoting qi flow. The two medicines paired together, one qi and one blood, regulate both qi and blood, and their effects in regulating menstruation and activating blood, promoting qi flow and relieving pain are very good. It mainly treats women with liver qi discomfort, qi and blood disharmony, and blocked and unsmooth meridians and vessels, resulting in irregular menstruation, chest and abdominal pain, poor appetite, or even nausea and vomiting.
For common gynecological diseases, folk single recipes and proven recipes using roses are also very effective. For example: steep 20g of fresh roses in boiling water and drink, which can treat irregular menstruation or abdominal pain during menstruation; decoct 30g of rose root, 15g each of cockscomb flower and motherwort in water and cook eggs to eat, which can treat dysmenorrhea;
For excessive menstruation and excessive vaginal discharge, use 15g of rose (or root) decocted in water, or stew with pork; decoct 10g of rose and 12g of jujube together, and after the soup is ready, add an appropriate amount of honey and take it. This formula is fragrant and sweet, not like medicine, and is very effective for menstrual tidal fever. In addition, women often steep rose petals in water as tea, or add them to other beauty teas for drinking, which can also activate blood and beautify the skin, helping one stay youthful.
Cultural background of roses
One of China's top ten famous flowers. The rose is hailed as the "Queen of Flowers," and it embodies a spirit of tenacity and unyieldingness, with a fragrance that lingers far.
Status in traditional culture
The rose occupies a weak position in traditional Chinese culture, but new archaeological discoveries show that the rose was the totem plant of the northern branch of the ancestors of the Chinese people - equivalent to the legendary Yellow Emperor's tribe.
The rose is now the city flower of Beijing and other cities.
Rose Flower Festival, from May 1 to May 20. Every year during this time, Zhengzhou holds a rose flower festival. Not only are there roses of various colors presented by the organizers, but city residents can also bring out famous varieties they have cultivated at home for many years. At that time, the whole city is filled with flowers, and beautiful fresh flowers are everywhere in parks and streets, with rich fragrance.
Legend
Long ago, at the foot of Shennong Mountain, there was a family surnamed Gao, with a daughter named Yulan, just eighteen years old, gentle and quiet. Many young noblemen came to propose marriage, but Yulan refused them all. Because she had an elderly mother who had been coughing and coughing up blood all year round, and no matter how much medicine was used, it was completely ineffective. So Yulan, without telling her parents, posted a notice seeking medical treatment: "Whoever cures my mother's illness, I am willing to marry him." A young man named Zhongyuan responded to the notice and offered a prescription. After Yulan's mother took his medicine, she indeed recovered. Yulan did not break her promise and married Zhongyuan. On their wedding night, Yulan asked what miraculous prescription was so effective, and Zhongyuan replied: "Rose, rose, a good remedy for clearing cough. This is a secret family recipe: rock sugar and roses stewed together make a miraculous soup for clearing cough and stopping bleeding, specially treating women's diseases." Yulan nodded and remembered it in her heart.
National flowers and city flowers of roses
City flower of Fuyang, city flower of Beijing, city flower of Tianjin, city flower of Shijiazhuang, city flower of Nanyang, city flower of Changzhou, city flower of Huai'an, city flower of Liuzhou.
National flower of Iraq, the United States, and Luxembourg.
Flower meaning of roses
Flower meaning of roses: waiting for a hopeful hope, happiness, glory, and beauty ever renewed. [13]
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of white roses: respect, sublimity, purity.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty.
The flower meaning and symbolic significance of green-white roses: innocence, simplicity, or a pure heart.
The flower language and symbolic meaning of black roses: individuality and creativity.
The flower language and symbolic meaning of blue-purple roses: preciousness and treasuring.
Rose images