Flower Care Tips: How to Make Indoor Jasmine Bloom More
Jasmine flowers are pure white and sweet, and during the blooming season the whole space fills with a fresh, delicate fragrance. It was originally a subtropical flowering shrub, and has now become a popular potted flower all over the world. But many friends find that after growing jasmine indoors, it becomes harder and harder for it to bloom.

The first thing is to choose a suitable variety. Single-petaled jasmine has the most fragrant blooms, while double-petaled jasmine produces fewer flowers, though the blooms are especially stunning.
Next, prepare suitable soil for the jasmine. Jasmine likes to grow in slightly acidic, well-rotted, fertile soil with good drainage, and it is best if the soil has some water-holding capacity, so the plants can grow well.
In addition, when potting, add a suitable amount of well-rotted organic fertilizer to the bottom of the pot, so that nutrients are sufficient and the jasmine will keep blooming.
When transplanting potted jasmine, you can take the roots and stems directly out of the container. Repot when the potting soil is half dry, then prepare a container one size larger, add plenty of well-rotted organic fertilizer to the bottom of the new pot, then add a suitable amount of compost soil and peat soil, cover the jasmine roots and stems with a suitable layer of soil, water thoroughly afterward, and keep the growing spot in a little scattered light, avoiding direct sun.
To propagate a jasmine plant, the simplest method is to cut a segment of stem directly from a mature jasmine. Summer and autumn are both very suitable for cuttings. The cut stem should be about 9 cm long; remove the leaves at the bottom of the stem and keep 3~4 leaves at the top. Cut the bottom of the stem at a slant, keep the soil slightly moist, insert the jasmine stem directly into the soil, and keep it in a warm, ventilated place, keeping the potting soil slightly moist; it will root quickly.
During the jasmine growing season, keep the soil slightly moist, but the potting soil must not be too wet. Once the soil dries slightly, replenish it in time. You can wait until the soil about 3 cm below the surface of the potting soil is dry, then water in time.
Water thoroughly each time, and also note that the leaves should not stay wet for long periods, otherwise it easily causes leaf spot disease. Excessively dense leaves at the base of the roots and stems can be cut off, which helps ventilation and light penetration and reduces pests and diseases.
For jasmine grown indoors, besides keeping the environment warm and providing suitable light, you should also maintain a certain air humidity and keep the soil slightly moist. When the air is dry, frequently mist water around it to increase humidity.
During the growing season, give the jasmine a dilute organic liquid fertilizer or balanced fertilizer once a month, which helps promote growth. Sprinkling a ring of well-rotted compost around the edge of the pot also promotes growth.
In addition, the most important thing to pay attention to is pruning. Throughout the growing season, dead leaves, diseased leaves or faded flowers should all be cut off in time.
Be careful not to prune the jasmine before it blooms, as this will affect flowering. After winter is about to end, you can give the jasmine one hard pruning. Pruning right after the frost is about to end is best, as it can promote more flowering branches.
In winter, you can cover the potting soil with a few cm of pine needle soil or compost soil, so the roots will not be frost-damaged.
How to Make Indoor Jasmine Bloom More
China Landscape Web News, November 1: Jasmine flowers are pure white and sweet, and during the blooming season the whole space fills with a fresh, delicate fragrance. It was originally a subtropical flowering shrub, and has now become a popular potted flower all over the world. But many friends find that after growing jasmine indoors, it becomes harder and harder for it to bloom.
The first thing is to choose a suitable variety. Single-petaled jasmine has the most fragrant blooms, while double-petaled jasmine produces fewer flowers, though the blooms are especially stunning.
Next, prepare suitable soil for the jasmine. Jasmine likes to grow in slightly acidic, well-rotted, fertile soil with good drainage, and it is best if the soil has some water-holding capacity, so the plants can grow well.
In addition, when potting, add a suitable amount of well-rotted organic fertilizer to the bottom of the pot, so that nutrients are sufficient and the jasmine will keep blooming.
When transplanting potted jasmine, you can take the roots and stems directly out of the container. Repot when the potting soil is half dry, then prepare a container one size larger, add plenty of well-rotted organic fertilizer to the bottom of the new pot, then add a suitable amount of compost soil and peat soil, cover the jasmine roots and stems with a suitable layer of soil, water thoroughly afterward, and keep the growing spot in a little scattered light, avoiding direct sun.
To propagate a jasmine plant, the simplest method is to cut a segment of stem directly from a mature jasmine. Summer and autumn are both very suitable for cuttings. The cut stem should be about 9 cm long; remove the leaves at the bottom of the stem and keep 3~4 leaves at the top. Cut the bottom of the stem at a slant, keep the soil slightly moist, insert the jasmine stem directly into the soil, and keep it in a warm, ventilated place, keeping the potting soil slightly moist; it will root quickly.
During the jasmine growing season, keep the soil slightly moist, but the potting soil must not be too wet. Once the soil dries slightly, replenish it in time. You can wait until the soil about 3 cm below the surface of the potting soil is dry, then water in time.
Water thoroughly each time, and also note that the leaves should not stay wet for long periods, otherwise it easily causes leaf spot disease. Excessively dense leaves at the base of the roots and stems can be cut off, which helps ventilation and light penetration and reduces pests and diseases.
For jasmine grown indoors, besides keeping the environment warm and providing suitable light, you should also maintain a certain air humidity and keep the soil slightly moist. When the air is dry, frequently mist water around it to increase humidity.
During the growing season, give the jasmine a dilute organic liquid fertilizer or balanced fertilizer once a month, which helps promote growth. Sprinkling a ring of well-rotted compost around the edge of the pot also promotes growth.
In addition, the most important thing to pay attention to is pruning. Throughout the growing season, dead leaves, diseased leaves or faded flowers should all be cut off in time.
Be careful not to prune the jasmine before it blooms, as this will affect flowering. After winter is about to end, you can give the jasmine one hard pruning. Pruning right after the frost is about to end is best, as it can promote more flowering branches.
In winter, you can cover the potting soil with a few cm of pine needle soil or compost soil, so the roots will not be frost-damaged.
Flower Care Tips: How to Make Potted Bougainvillea Bloom More
Potted Bougainvillea
Bougainvillea, commonly known as paperflower. Scientific name: Bougainvillea spectabilis Willd. Nyctaginaceae, Bougainvillea genus. Native to Brazil, Peru and Argentina in South America. An evergreen climbing woody large vine plant, with branches often arching and drooping. The flowers are mostly 3 borne together in one place. It was discovered at the end of the 18th century, and was not introduced to England for cultivation until the 1820s. It was introduced to China in the 1950s. In the early period after introduction, it was cultivated only in botanical gardens in the southern provinces and in exhibition greenhouses in large northern cities. It was not until the 1980s that it spread in Guangdong, Yunnan and Fujian. Because bougainvillea is easy to cultivate and highly adaptable, it has gradually become a native tree species in the southern provinces of China.
Bougainvillea has a long flowering period and blooms abundantly; the plant is widely adaptable, has strong vitality, and comes in rich colors. Classified by petal form: there are double-petaled and single-petaled types; classified by cultivation method: there are cutting-propagated, grafted, and natural variant types; classified by flower color: there are purplish red, white, orange-yellow, light red, peach red, rose red, bright red, and also red-and-white mixed forms. It can be used both for landscaping and as a home potted plant.
Anyway, since it is all about blooming, let's talk about how to make flowers cover the branches.
Full-flower style: that is, the whole tree is covered in flowers. The method to force flowering is: 45 days in advance, apply a 1:1:1 compound fertilizer, then control water; after the leaves wilt, add a small amount of water, combined with foliar spraying. Repeat this until all the leaves have dropped, then water thoroughly. The growth that appears at this time will be flowers all over the tree. This process must be carried out in full sun.
Bougainvillea is a plant that likes high temperatures and strong sunlight, so potted bougainvillea should always be placed in a spot with ample sunlight. This is not only beneficial to its vegetative growth, but also beneficial to reproductive growth.
1. Frequent exposure to sun
Bougainvillea is a plant that likes high temperatures and strong sunlight, so potted bougainvillea should always be placed in a spot with ample sunlight. This is not only beneficial to its vegetative growth, but also beneficial to reproductive growth. Practice has shown that plants treated with strong sunlight have shorter internodes, fuller growth, more flowers, deeper flower color and a longer flowering period.
2. Frequent pruning
Bougainvillea has a long growing period and grows fast, so it must be pruned and pinched in a timely manner to fix and maintain the plant shape. Pinching also helps promote new shoots, making it bloom more, because the flowers only open at the tips of new branches. Pruning is generally done in spring and summer; pruning after mid-August will affect flowering, so it should not be done. The targets for pruning are inner branches, weak slender branches, leggy branches, crossing branches, etc. Some overly long branches should also be shortened to leave 1~2 buds.
3. Strictly control water
Purple bougainvillea should have water withheld before flowering, that is, starting in mid-August. After watering once, wait until the leaves and young buds all droop before watering again. The degree of water withholding is based on the plant not dying of dryness. Repeat this treatment until flower buds appear in the leaf axils at the branch tips, then gradually return to normal watering. Withholding water increases the concentration of cell sap, thereby promoting the differentiation and formation of flower buds.
4. Fertilize skillfully
Bougainvillea is very sensitive to urea. At the early stage of flower branch growth, urea still needs to be applied once to help the flower branches grow. The most important are the last two points. If these two are handled well, the adverse effects caused by insufficient sunlight can be completely overcome.
Bougainvillea is not cold-tolerant. Once the temperature drops sharply, the plant will drop a large number of leaves. Below 3°C the leaves are prone to frost damage. At this time, do not water too much. It should be placed in an environment of 10°C to 15°C, watered about once every 10 days, and after buds sprout and leaves grow the following spring, gradually increase the amount of watering. Otherwise, it will lead to root rot and death.