What causes flowers to get sick? Practical troubleshooting methods tell you
If whatever flower you plant dies? That is not because you do not love flowers enough, but because you need to understand the needs of flowers. Flowers, like people, have things they want. For example, people need to eat, flowers need to drink water; people need exercise, flowers need sunlight; so when growing flowers, you must understand the temperament of the flowers. Now let us get to know flowers!
Plant diseases are generally divided into physiological diseases and biological infection (pathological) diseases. Physiological diseases are not contagious; as long as the cultivation environment is improved in time and corresponding measures suitable for plant growth and development are taken, there is a chance of improvement. Common biological infection diseases are mainly caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes and mycoplasma-like organisms infecting the plant.
Common physiological diseases include:

Sunburn caused by strong light in summer
Root rot caused by too much water
Scorched leaf edges or wilting caused by insufficient water
Nitrogen deficiency causes large numbers of old leaves to turn yellow (with phosphorus deficiency, the leaves remain normal in color but the plant fails to bloom when the time comes.)
Potassium deficiency causes heavy leaf drop and even the decline and death of the whole plant
Excessive fertilizing or applying unrotted organic fertilizer causes the tender tips to scorch
Soil and water that are too alkaline make the leaves of acid-loving plants turn yellow and drop
Soil and water that are too acidic make alkaline-loving plants weaken and their leaves scorch
Practical! See why your flowers get sick?
China Landscape Network, May 25 news: If whatever flower you plant dies? That is not because you do not love flowers enough, but because you need to understand the needs of flowers. Flowers, like people, have things they want. For example, people need to eat, flowers need to drink water; people need exercise, flowers need sunlight; so when growing flowers, you must understand the temperament of the flowers. Now let us get to know flowers!
Plant diseases are generally divided into physiological diseases and biological infection (pathological) diseases. Physiological diseases are not contagious; as long as the cultivation environment is improved in time and corresponding measures suitable for plant growth and development are taken, there is a chance of improvement. Common biological infection diseases are mainly caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes and mycoplasma-like organisms infecting the plant.
Common physiological diseases include:
Sunburn caused by strong light in summer
Root rot caused by too much water
Scorched leaf edges or wilting caused by insufficient water
Nitrogen deficiency causes large numbers of old leaves to turn yellow (with phosphorus deficiency, the leaves remain normal in color but the plant fails to bloom when the time comes.)
Potassium deficiency causes heavy leaf drop and even the decline and death of the whole plant
Excessive fertilizing or applying unrotted organic fertilizer causes the tender tips to scorch
Soil and water that are too alkaline make the leaves of acid-loving plants turn yellow and drop
Soil and water that are too acidic make alkaline-loving plants weaken and their leaves scorch
Practical handbook for the care of common indoor flowers
RhododendronEarly-flowering varieties bloom in October, mid-season varieties bloom in January, and late-flowering varieties bloom in February. The flowering period lasts about 3 months.
Cultivation principles:
Place it indoors in a semi-shaded spot, avoid direct strong light, and avoid dry, high-temperature environments. In winter, keep the minimum temperature above 8°C. Water to keep the potting soil moist, giving a thorough watering once a week, and also pay attention to raising air humidity; frequently spray clear water around the plant. It can grow well when air humidity is above 70%. Whether you can grow rhododendrons well depends on the potting soil. Rhododendrons are acid-soil flowers, and the potting soil pH is best between 5.0-5.5; when the pH exceeds 6, growth is often poor. You can pile up fallen pine needles, let them rot, then add a small portion of garden soil and mix for potting, or buy acid soil on the market for potting. Try not to use tap water for irrigation; use cooled boiled water or regularly add a small amount of diluted ferrous sulfate solution (about 0.1%). Long-term use of ferrous sulfate makes the soil prone to compaction, so at that time loosen the soil.
The potting soil also needs to be loose and keep good drainage. The hole at the bottom of the pot should be covered with a tile with its convex side facing up. Repot once every spring.
Words of experience:
Before flowering, remove the buds beside the flower buds, otherwise the flowers are not easy to open. After the flowers drop, remove the calyx. After the flowers fall, prune the plant. In spring and summer apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, and in autumn and winter apply a compound fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium; stop fertilizing once flower buds appear. You can also put a slow-release fertilizer into the soil when repotting in spring, and then there is no need to fertilize again for a year, but the amount of fertilizer must be controlled by experience. If you do not mind the trouble, you can also make your own organic fertilizer. Ask for some sesame paste residue from a small sesame oil mill at the free market, put it together with fish scales, let it ferment completely until white foam appears and there is no bad smell, then mix with water at a ratio of one part per thousand and water once every half month.
Clay pots and tile pots are best for flower pots. You can also use small floral or blue-and-white porcelain pots as cachepots. Avoid flower pots with large patterns.
Pests and diseases: whitefly will make leaves curl and wrinkle; if the air is too dry, red spider mites will cause damage; improper cultivation methods will cause various mold diseases. Rhododendron root rot is one of the most important, mainly shown as poor plant growth, wilting and drying leaves, and brown spots and rotting, peeling bark at the roots.
Narcissus
It likes sunny, warm and humid environmental conditions. Generally choose short varieties for small potted plants, placed on windowsills or desks for viewing; it is an excellent indoor flower for winter.
Cultivation principles:
Place it indoors in a spot with better light. During the growing period keep the ambient temperature at 15-20°C, and grow it in clear water.
Words of experience:
The water only needs to touch the root plate; pour the water out at night and add water during the day. It must get full light, otherwise the leaves will be thin and long and it will not bloom. Scoring it open can shorten the flowering period, but do not touch the flower buds.
Pests and diseases: very few.
Poinsettia
Also called Christmas poinsettia. It likes a sunny, warm environment. The flowering period is from November to March of the following year, and it can also be brought into bloom earlier through short-day treatment
Cultivation principles:
Place it in a spot with ample light; in summer it can be moved outdoors to a lightly shaded spot. It requires a high-temperature environment: 25-29°C during the growing period, and 18°C at night. After the bracts color, lower the temperature to 18-20°C, and to about 15°C at night. Poinsettia is relatively tolerant of low temperatures and can occasionally endure temperatures below 5°C. If it is below 8°C, water less and give more sunlight. When entering the flowering period, water with warm water; during full bloom reduce the water supply, as overwatering will cause leaf drop. It requires medium humidity, and in hot rooms it should be sprayed frequently with warm water. Pot it in acidic peat soil plus a small amount of sandy soil, and repot once a year or every other year. During the peak growing season it needs large amounts of nutrients; fertilize once a week from April to September. A simple way to dwarf the plant is to prune after flowering each year, leaving the stem 10cm high; it would be even better if a growth retardant can be applied. It can also be bent and shaped freely in summer. If you want it to bloom earlier, you can artificially shorten the daylight, giving 9 hours of light per day; after 45 days it can come into bloom.
Words of experience:
Keeping it alive is easy, but growing it well (with long, round, full bracts) is difficult. When it grows new leaves, it requires 30% shading. If the light is too strong, the leaves will scorch and develop spots; if there is not enough light, the lower leaves will drop, the bracts will fade in color, and the plant will be thin and long, not sturdy. When watering, do not touch the leaves, otherwise wherever it is touched will rot.
Pests and diseases:
A dry environment will bring damage from whitefly, scale insects and red spider mites, causing leaves to twist and deform, or causing the root system to rot.
Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis is called the “Queen of Orchids”. Its flowering period lasts as long as 2-3 months, and it can bloom 2 times a year. Each flower stem can carry 10-20 flowers. It has no pollen and will not cause respiratory allergies. The only shortcoming is that it has no fragrance. Each phalaenopsis plant can live 5-10 years.
Cultivation principles:
Its light requirement is bright shade; in summer it is better to shade the sunlight with bamboo blinds or mesh curtains.
Water alternately dry and wet. To increase humidity, it is best to spray water once a day, but be careful not to spray on the flowers, and do not spray water at noon.
For fertilizing, you can use orchid-specific fertilizer available on the market, diluted with water according to the proportion and watered on.
Words of experience:
Phalaenopsis likes a cool, airy environment; if the environment is relatively stuffy and hot, it is prone to rot.
When planting phalaenopsis, it is best to use a multi-holed pot.
Anthurium
Anthurium has a relatively long flowering period and can have spathes all year round; it is a very good indoor ornamental plant.
Cultivation principles:
It likes light but fears the strong sunlight at midday in summer. In summer place it indoors at a north window, and in other seasons at a south window. The most suitable growing temperature is 20-25°C, and in winter the room temperature should not be below 15°C.
Water alternately dry and wet. Tap the flower pot with your hand; if the sound is relatively hollow, it is time to water. Water thoroughly, judged by water flowing out of the bottom of the pot. To raise humidity, spray water on the leaf surface.
For fertilizing, buy a special flower nutrient solution, add 5ml to 200-300 times water, stir evenly, and water it through like watering; once a month is enough.
It is best to plant it in a pot with holes. Repot once every 2-3 years, generally in spring. Pests and diseases: there are damages from nematodes, aphids, scale insects and red spider mites. If care is poor, it will lead to root rot, and the leaf surface will also develop spots and discoloration.
Tuberous Begonia
The flowering period is long, from spring to after autumn, and the branches are relatively brittle. It can be used as a medium or small potted plant, and its hanging varieties can also be used as hanging plants together with other green leafy plants.
Cultivation principles:
It adapts to a cool environment and fears severe summer heat. It likes dry soil and humid air. Potting soil that is too wet will cause root rot, and dry air will cause male flowers to drop. It fears waterlogging. It is best placed at an east or west window. The suitable growing temperature is about 20°C and must not exceed 30°C. During dormancy, about 10°C. Air humidity about 70%.
During the growing season it can be watered frequently, with lukewarm soft water at pH 4.5-5. Never spray water directly onto the leaves and flowers, otherwise it will cause leaf mold. In the later part of the growing season, gradually reduce the amount of watering. After dormancy, cut off the withered stems. Throughout winter the tubers can be stored in peat and kept slightly moist.
It likes fertilizer; fertilize at intervals during the flowering period, using a flowering nutrient solution, 5ml diluted in 1000ml water, stirred evenly and applied like watering. Be careful not to apply the fertilizer water to the leaves, otherwise they easily rot and may even cause the death of the plant.
Pests and diseases:
There are nematodes, aphids and begonia mites. When humidity is high, bacterial diseases easily occur. Water-soaked spots appear on the leaf edges and undersides, slowly turn brown, and finally dry up. The stems turn lead-gray and appear to contain purulent secretions. These diseases spread quickly; once they appear, the diseased plant should be burned immediately.
Clivia
It can be used as a small or medium potted plant, and is a very good indoor plant for both flowers and foliage.
Cultivation principles:
It does not like being moved often; it is best to find a relatively fixed position. It fears strong light and should be placed at a south window with ventilation. Too strong light will cause the leaves to turn yellow. The suitable growing temperature is 20-25°C; in summer, when the temperature is above 25°C, it begins dormancy.
The secret to successful clivia cultivation is related to watering. Do not water too much, especially during dormancy, when only a small amount of water is needed to keep the potting soil slightly moist. When the flower stem grows to about 15cm, it needs a little more water, but too much water will cause yellow spots on the leaves or root rot. It is best to use warm water close to room temperature. In summer wipe the leaf surface frequently; in winter control watering and no fertilizing is needed.
Vigorous plants do not need repotting every year. Repotting is generally done after flowering. The potting soil is a mixed medium of leaf mold plus fertile loam and river sand.
Pests and diseases: it is sometimes harmed by scale insects and aphids. Potting soil that is too wet will cause root rot.
Dracaena fragrans
Evergreen tree. It likes an environment with ample light, high temperature and high humidity, but it has a very wide range of adaptation to light, is very shade-tolerant, and is suitable for indoor growth.
Cultivation principles:
Place it about 3-4 m from a window, or in similar light, and be careful to prevent direct strong light at noon, especially from March to September. However, an overly shaded environment will cause the leaves to turn yellow and fade. As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, it can remain in a growing state all year round, but it is best to let it go dormant in winter, with a dormancy temperature of 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear at the leaf tips and edges. In winter it must not be below 5°C. When placing it, keep it away from air conditioners and heating.
The amount of water must be balanced; potting soil that is too dry or too wet is harmful. Excess water at the bottom of the pot will cause the root system to rot, so the bottom of the pot should use a highly drainage pad. In summer it is best to water with rainwater. Water before 10 a.m. or after noon, alternately dry and wet.
It likes a relatively humid environment, and it also needs a constant temperature, otherwise it is prone to pests and diseases. It is best to buy it in spring and avoid buying it in autumn and winter. You can frequently use misting to raise air humidity.
During the growing period, fertilize once every 2 weeks; for old perennial plants, it is best to fertilize once a week. If you want it to go dormant in winter, stop fertilizing after September.
Repot in April every year; new plants need repotting once a year. Old plants are repotted every other year; generally see whether the root system of the old plant has grown out of the bottom hole of the pot before repotting. Use peat soil plus a small amount of sesame paste residue for the potting soil; because it likes good drainage, add a small amount of coarse sand and mix
Pests and diseases:
If the environment is unsuitable, there will be damage from red spider mites, thrips and scale insects. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering and excessive fertilizing can all cause scorched leaf tips. Generally the plant is relatively clean and not easily attacked by pests. Sometimes the leaves have scorched edges, mostly a physiological disease caused by drought or too-low temperature.
Lucky bamboo
Evergreen small tree. It is suitable for medium potted plants, or can be grown indoors in water, placed in a vase, and after a period of time it will grow roots. It is not strict about light, so it can be placed in any indoor position for a long time. Cultivation is similar to Dracaena fragrans, and it basically has no pests or diseases.
Monstera
Also called Penglai banana, Tuanlong bamboo, wire orchid.
Cultivation principles:
It likes light, but direct sunlight at noon in summer should be avoided. The more light, the larger the leaves and the more splits. Monstera is very strong and also quite shade-tolerant, and can be placed in a fairly dark place for a period of time. The suitable growing temperature is 20-25°C; in winter 12°C is enough. The minimum temperature is 5°C. Air humidity is 60-70%.
During the growing season, water frequently to keep the potting soil moderately moist. If the plant is at a lower temperature in winter, the amount of watering should also be reduced. You can frequently spray the leaf surface with lukewarm calcium-free soft water or rainwater, or wipe it with a sponge, but stop in winter.
After June, fertilize once every 2 weeks. When nutrients are insufficient, the leaves will grow very small. If aerial roots grow into the soil, they can absorb nutrients, so some aerial roots can be used to increase the absorption area.
Repot every year. The potting soil is general potting soil. The pot should be slightly larger, and drainage needs to be good. If grown in a totem-pole style, the aerial roots should be wrapped around a moss-wrapped pole to help absorb nutrients.
Pests and diseases: the plant is strong and rarely infected by pests or diseases.
Calathea makoyana
Perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Suitable for indoor small and medium potted plants, unique and exquisite. The suitable temperature is 20°C
Cultivation principles:
It likes a semi-shaded, semi-sunny light environment; otherwise the leaves fade and the ornamental value is affected. When placing it, avoid direct sunlight and put it in a brighter spot. It is also very shade-tolerant. For overwintering it requires a temperature of 13-16°C; in the other three seasons, normal room temperature is fine. The most suitable temperature is 18-25°C.
It has relatively high humidity requirements. In spring and summer, water promptly and keep the potting soil moist; avoid dryness and too much water. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering. Spraying water alone is not enough; if conditions permit, it is best to use a humidifier to raise humidity. For appearance, wipe the leaves frequently. Spraying with cooled boiled water gives the best effect.
Repot once every other year. The potting soil should use an acidic medium with good aeration and water permeability; peat soil with a small amount of coarse sand can be used as potting soil. During the growing period, apply fertilizer water once every 2 weeks. At other times, apply little or no fertilizer.
Pests and diseases:
If ventilation is poor during the growing period, it is prone to damage by scale insects, and in severe cases it will hinder the growth of stems and leaves. It can be controlled by spraying diluted dimethoate solution. The leaves have very high ornamental value, so mechanical damage must be avoided.
Cinnamon
Cultivation principles:
It likes a humid, airy environment. If ventilation is poor, the inner branches will turn yellow and the leaves will drop. Sometimes its leaf shape droops, which is caused by lack of water; if watered promptly, it can recover to an upright state within four or five hours. Water thoroughly at one time, and at the same time frequently spray water on the leaves to increase humidity.
Cordyline
A small shrub, with leaves in a mix of red, pink and green, very beautiful
Cultivation principles:
It likes ample sunlight, but not direct sunlight; if there is not enough light, the variegated leaves will gradually fade. When the soil has dried out, water promptly, and water thoroughly until water comes out of the bottom of the pot. Also spray the leaf surface regularly, which can increase the surrounding humidity and benefit plant growth.
Spathiphyllum
It rarely blooms, and the flowering period is about one month. The flowers are white and strip-shaped, and the spathe is very tall. It carries the meaning of smooth sailing and is an excellent gift.
Cultivation principles:
Tolerates shade, but if it gets no sunlight at all, the leaves will fade. When the soil is completely dry, it is time to water. Usually, insert a small stick into the soil; if little soil clings to the stick, it is time to water. Water thoroughly at one go until water runs out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. To maintain humidity, mist the leaves frequently.
Golden Pothos
It is a plant that climbs on other objects using aerial roots. It is highly shade-tolerant and an excellent choice for beautifying living spaces; it can be trained as a totem pole, wall hanging, or grown in a water bottle or as a hanging plant.
Cultivation principles:
Golden Pothos likes light but cannot tolerate strong sunlight. Outdoors, place it in dappled shade; indoors, place it by an east or west window, and by a south window in winter. In poor light, the pale yellow streaks turn grayish-yellow. The suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C; a heated room is very suitable, and in winter the minimum should not fall below 10°C. Air humidity 40-50%.
In summer, keep the potting soil at medium moisture; in winter, as the temperature drops, reduce watering. The plant can tolerate temporary dryness and temporary excess moisture. It is best to water the plant with calcium-free soft water.
During the growing season, fertilize once every two weeks.
Repot young plants every year, and mature plants every 2-3 years. The potting mix is a blend of conifer needle soil, peat blocks and rotted horse manure. But other soils can also be used, as long as the soil contains no calcium or only trace amounts. Make sure the pot drains well.
Pests and diseases: The plant is robust and rarely troubled by pests or diseases.
Philodendron
A climbing vine. There are two kinds: red philodendron and green philodendron. It can be grown as a medium or large potted plant, usually trained into a totem pole. Because of its strong shade tolerance, it can be kept indoors for a long time.
Cultivation principles:
Philodendron is fairly shade-tolerant, but under bright light it grows faster and more robustly. Indoors, it can be placed by a window. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C, and the minimum temperature must never fall below 14°C. Air humidity should be around 70%.
During the growing season, water frequently and mist the leaves twice a day. In winter, water the plant with lukewarm water, preferably soft water or rainwater, because minerals and harmful elements in tap water are bad for the roots. The plant should not be taken outdoors to rinse with tap water; instead, spray it with lukewarm water.
During the growing season, apply a liquid nitrogen fertilizer once every two weeks.
Repot every spring, carefully shake off the old soil between the roots, and cut away dead roots. The potting mix is a blend of conifer needle soil, rotted horse manure and a small amount of granular peat. The pot must drain very well; retained water will turn the leaves yellow, and too little water will also turn the leaves yellow.
Pests and diseases:
Philodendron is generally not prone to pests and diseases, but improper care can leave it vulnerable to scale insect infestation.
Snake Plant, also known as tiger skin plant, tiger grass orchid, thousand-year plant, and brocade orchid. A perennial herbaceous plant. Its main ornamental feature is its beautiful leaves.
Cultivation principles:
It likes warm temperatures and needs plenty of sunlight; it can be placed on an unobstructed south-facing windowsill. But it also tolerates shade and will not die under shaded conditions; however, if kept shaded for too long, the leaves become dull and faded.
Snake Plant is extremely easy to grow, but overwatering will harm it. Its suitable temperature is 18-27°C, and growth stops below 13°C. In winter, the temperature should not stay below 8-10°C for long, otherwise the base of the plant will rot.
Second, pay special attention to controlling the amount of water. Apart from summer, when it can be kept slightly moist, at other times it must not be too wet. However, you can mist the leaves often to keep them clean. In winter, keep it cool and dry. When using a plastic pot or other decorative pots with poor drainage, pay special attention to soil drainage, otherwise excess water will slowly accumulate and harm the plant. Snake Plant is not strict about water hardness, and ordinary water can be used.
When growth begins in summer, fertilize 1-2 times a month; the amount need not be large. Generally repot every two years. Spring is the best season for repotting.
Pests and diseases:
Under conditions of excessive humidity or fluctuating high temperatures, brown spots or corky spots easily form on the leaves.
Boston Fern
It likes warm, humid, shaded environments.
Cultivation principles:
It does not need much light and dislikes direct sunlight even more, but if placed in a dark spot, the leaves will drop after a few weeks. It grows quickly in greenhouses and high-humidity environments; although it cannot grow very large, it can still survive for a long time. Once the leaves turn yellow or drop, you can move it to a drier area, keep the temperature at around 5°C, remove the old leaves, and after 1-2 months, repot it with fresh soil and put it back in the greenhouse to grow; after a few months it will grow well again.
It has strict water requirements: it should be neither too wet nor too dry, and it is best watered with rainwater.
Boston Fern needs plenty of nutrients to grow well, but the fertilizer must not be too concentrated, so it is best watered with diluted fertilizer solution. In winter, when growth stops or the plant is dormant, do not fertilize. Repot once every spring.
Pests and diseases:
Sometimes large numbers of aphids, scale insects and other pests harm the plant.
Bird's-nest Fern
It is particularly suitable as an indoor foliage plant; it can be grown as a medium or large potted plant, or placed in a hanging basket as a hanging plant.
Cultivation principles:
It needs only a little sunlight, so it can be placed in the living room. Avoid intense sunlight at all costs. The suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C, and in winter 15°C, not below 10°C. If the temperature is too low, the leaf margins turn brown. Air humidity should be above 60%.
During the growing season, water generously and regularly; in winter, simply keep the potting soil slightly moist. To raise air humidity, mist the plant frequently, preferably with demineralized soft water or rainwater.
During the growing season, apply a light fertilizer once every 10-14 days. With proper fertilization, the plant will produce plenty of new leaves; a lack of fertilizer or dry air can cause the leaf margins to turn brown.
Generally repot every 2-3 years, using a mixture of peat, leaf mold and a small amount of rotted horse manure. Make sure the pot drains well.
Pests and diseases:
Pests include red spider mites, scale insects and others.
Asparagus Fern
A perennial climbing herbaceous plant, and an excellent potted plant.
Cultivation principles:
It likes cool shade and can be placed in a bright spot indoors. The suitable growing temperature is 18-25°C; in winter keep it at 12-15°C, not below 8°C. It is sensitive to dry air and should be misted frequently. In summer, water generously; in winter, simply keep the potting soil moist.
From May to September, plants with well-developed roots can be fertilized once a week. In winter, if the plant is in a warm living room, apply a light fertilizer once a week.
Repot young plants once a year and mature plants once every two years, removing some old roots at the same time. The potting mix can be a blend of leaf mold, crushed clay and a small amount of rotted horse manure. Place a piece of broken tile over the drainage hole of the pot to prevent roots from growing out of the pot.
Pests and diseases:
Pests include aphids, scale insects and red spider mites. Healthy plants rarely become diseased; once infected, the affected branches should be cut off at the base immediately and burned. There are plenty of people who love flowers but do not know how to grow them. Here we especially recommend several easy-care indoor flowers, to add a touch of green to the desks and tables of friends who love looking at flowers but have neither the time nor the energy to grow them.
Kalanchoe
It is a flower given to the elderly.
Care: Likes light, fears moisture and waterlogging.
Selaginella
Also known as resurrection plant, a fern. It is drought-tolerant; even if it dries out so much that the leaves droop, it will revive as soon as it is watered. It likes cool conditions and fears sun exposure, and needs high air humidity. It can be propagated by division; a piece with roots will survive, and it is especially tough.
Cacti
These are plants that grow in tropical deserts. They normally need moderate misting, but only under conditions of abundant sunlight; do not mist on cloudy days. For some varieties, do not mist the grafted top, because water there easily causes rot.
The hole at the bottom of the flowerpot should be plugged with paper, so that water can still seep through (too much water will rot the roots) without letting all the water drain away.