Watering Methods and Practical Analysis of Root-Control Pots for Phalaenopsis Orchids
When it comes to growing Phalaenopsis orchids, choosing a pot is a big deal, and lately many flower enthusiasts have become fans of root-control pots. These things look different from ordinary flower pots, with lots of holes at the bottom and ventilation slots on the sides, but are they actually any good? And how should you water with them?
What is the most frustrating thing about growing Phalaenopsis orchids? Root rot! Ordinary flower pots are stuffy, and with just a little too much water, the roots easily become oxygen-deprived and moldy. Root-control pots are different: the sides and bottom are full of small holes, so air can slip in through the gaps, the roots can breathe at all times, and the chance of root rot drops by half. Plus, most of these pots are transparent, so you can see at a glance how the roots are growing and whether the growing medium is dry, and you no longer have to guess "Is it time to water?"
When growing Phalaenopsis orchids in ordinary ceramic pots, you always worry about not watering enough, and as a result you overwater every time, and healthy seedlings end up rotting away. After switching to root-control pots, it is obviously much less stressful. Especially in summer, when the weather is hot and Phalaenopsis orchids easily get stuffy roots, this pot's breathability comes in handy, and the leaves are even more spread out than before. However, there is one small drawback: in winter you need to pay attention to keeping them warm, since there are many holes and the roots can easily get cold when temperatures are low, so just put on an insulation bag.
Watering with root-control pots has its own particularities. Many people think that because there are many holes and water drains quickly, they should water heavily, but that is actually a misconception. The correct approach is "water when dry, dry when wet": wait until the sphagnum moss or bark in the pot is about 80% dry, then water. The way to judge is also simple: with a transparent pot you can directly see the growing medium's color become lighter, or you can weigh the pot, and if it has become lighter, it is time to water.
When watering, do not aim a strong stream directly at the roots. It is best to use a small watering can and pour slowly along the edge of the pot, so the growing medium absorbs water evenly. If you use sphagnum moss, stop when the moss swells slightly and water begins to drip from the bottom of the pot; if you use bark, water for a longer time so the bark can soak up enough water. After watering, do not rush to put it back on the flower rack. First find a ventilated place and tip it to drain, letting the excess water at the bottom of the pot drain away, otherwise no matter how many holes there are, they cannot cope with standing water.
Some flower enthusiasts ask, can you soak the pot? I have tried it a few times and it feels workable, but do not do it for too long; three to five minutes is enough. Soaking too long makes the growing medium too wet and instead reduces air flow. In addition, pay attention to the water temperature. Do not water directly with freshly drawn tap water; let it sit for a day, and use it once the water temperature is close to room temperature, otherwise the cold-hot shock can easily damage the roots.
Root-control pots for Phalaenopsis orchids are indeed a good thing, especially for those who are all thumbs. As long as you master the rhythm of watering and do not mess around, Phalaenopsis orchids are sure to grow with strong roots and many flowers.