How can orchid bud blast be effectively prevented?

How can orchid bud blast be prevented?

Orchid bud blast is very detrimental to orchid blooming. This is because orchid flower bud differentiation occurs during the maturation period of new shoots and lasts nearly 1 year. Normally, after a year of nutrient accumulation, the flower buds of orchids emerge from the soil. The flowering periods of different varieties differ. After the flower buds of Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Hui orchid), Cymbidium sinense (ink orchid), Cymbidium kanran (cold orchid), Cymbidium tortisepalum (spring sword orchid), and Cymbidium tortisepalum var. longibracteatum (lianban orchid) emerge from the soil, there is a relatively long process of growth, bud gestation, and vernalization. This process lasts as short as five or six months, and as long as 7 months. For Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid) and Cymbidium kanran summer varieties, the time from flower bud emergence to blooming is not long, as short as about 20 days, and as long as 30 days to 40 days.

Whether a variety has a vernalization period or not, attention must be paid to the management of fertilizer, water, and light during both the vegetative growth period and the reproductive growth period. There are many reasons why flower buds turn black, wither, and drop off and die, most of which are caused by excessive humidity, excessive fertilizer, poor ventilation, and other factors. Generally, flower bud differentiation is sufficient to indicate that nutrition is adequate, so there is no need to continue applying fertilizer to the roots; only foliar feeding is needed. The so-called attention to fertilizer and water management during the flowering period means promoting the flower buds to expand and grow fully, that is, paying attention to foliar feeding. At the same time, during this period temperatures are relatively high, and the orchids are still continuing to grow, so sterilization and disinfection should be strengthened. After the flower buds emerge from the soil, if fertilizer and water are applied indiscriminately, and if high temperature, muggy conditions, poor ventilation, and other situations occur, flower buds will turn black, wither, and drop off and die.

During the bud gestation period of orchids, from the Beginning of Autumn to before the Winter Solstice, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer topdressing should be strengthened to promote the flower buds to expand and grow fully. Whether for sterilization and disinfection or for spraying dilute fertilizer, the interval should be 7 days to 10 days, and it must not be too frequent or too concentrated. Allow appropriate exposure to sunlight, otherwise the flower buds will be damaged and the hearts will rot. In addition, attention should be paid to water control and fertilizer control before flowering. When the flower buds are small, attention should be paid to withholding water once or twice, which is directly related to the quality of subsequent blooming. If you are not in a hurry to participate in an orchid show, do not deliberately adjust temperature and humidity; let them bloom naturally.

During the vegetative growth period of new shoots, multi-element fertilizer based mainly on nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to promote robust plant growth, achieve disease resistance and drought resistance, and ensure the conditions for flower bud growth. Therefore, whether flower buds can bloom normally is inseparable from earlier management.

Whether a variety has a vernalization period or not, attention must be paid to the management of fertilizer, water, and light during both the vegetative growth period and the reproductive growth period. There are many reasons why flower buds turn black, wither, and drop off and die, most of which are caused by excessive humidity, excessive fertilizer, poor ventilation, and other factors. Generally, flower bud differentiation is sufficient to indicate that nutrition is adequate, so there is no need to continue applying fertilizer to the roots; only foliar feeding is needed. The so-called attention to fertilizer and water management during the flowering period means promoting the flower buds to expand and grow fully, that is, paying attention to foliar feeding. At the same time, during this period temperatures are relatively high, and the orchids are still continuing to grow, so sterilization and disinfection should be strengthened. After the flower buds emerge from the soil, if fertilizer and water are applied indiscriminately, and if high temperature, muggy conditions, poor ventilation, and other situations occur, flower buds will turn black, wither, and drop off and die.

During the bud gestation period of orchids, from the Beginning of Autumn to before the Winter Solstice, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer topdressing should be strengthened to promote the flower buds to expand and grow fully. Whether for sterilization and disinfection or for spraying dilute fertilizer, the interval should be 7 days to 10 days, and it must not be too frequent or too concentrated. Allow appropriate exposure to sunlight, otherwise the flower buds will be damaged and the hearts will rot. In addition, attention should be paid to water control and fertilizer control before flowering. When the flower buds are small, attention should be paid to withholding water once or twice, which is directly related to the quality of subsequent blooming. If you are not in a hurry to participate in an orchid show, do not deliberately adjust temperature and humidity; let them bloom naturally.

During the vegetative growth period of new shoots, multi-element fertilizer based mainly on nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to promote robust plant growth, achieve disease resistance and drought resistance, and ensure the conditions for flower bud growth. Therefore, whether flower buds can bloom normally is inseparable from earlier management.