The flowering period of the clivia is short, how can it be extended?
How can the flowering period of the clivia be extended.
Extending the flowering time of the clivia is not impossible; under suitable climatic conditions, one inflorescence can generally bloom for about 45 days. How should we extend the flowering period?
1. Many and strong roots. Practice has shown that if the roots are thin and weak, or more than nearly half of the roots are rotting, the plant will find it very hard to bloom that year. Only when there are more than 20 strong roots does the plant have the basis for flowering.
2. More than 16 leaves. Only after the nutrients accumulated by the clivia through photosynthesis reach a certain level does it have the basic conditions for flowering, and the photosynthetic area of the clivia is related to the number of leaves. If there are too few leaves, the nutrients accumulated through photosynthesis will not be enough to form buds and bloom. Therefore, it is not advisable to pull off the poorly shaped leaves at the bottom just for the sake of a neat plant shape.
3. The pseudobulb becomes thicker. After the clivia has formed flowers, its flower buds will grow rapidly after autumn. Because the clivia's flower scape is thick and sturdy and the flower buds are numerous and large, the pseudobulb can be seen to thicken noticeably after autumn. If the pseudobulb does not thicken after autumn, it means the clivia has not yet formed flowers.
4. The appearance of "large leaves". The two groups of leaves around the clivia's flower scape are clearly different from the other leaves, appearing broad and with thick veins; this is what is usually called "large leaves". The reason the clivia forms "large leaves" is that once the plant has formed flowers, its nutrients are supplied mainly to the flower buds, causing the leaves close to the flower buds to "benefit", thus producing "large leaves" different from the other leaves. Therefore, as long as "large leaves" appear, the plant can generally bloom normally.
To extend the flowering period, the plant can be placed at a temperature of about 15°C, and the light duration appropriately reduced.
Although the clivia likes a semi-shady environment, in winter the longer the sunlight exposure the better. When in bloom, strong light will shorten the flowering period, while weak light can extend it. It likes warmth and coolness and avoids severe cold and intense heat; it generally grows well at 18-20°C and stops growing below 5°C. After the clivia is brought indoors, light is restricted, so the pot must be moved manually for adjustment.
Fertilizing. The clivia's vegetative growth is fastest in winter and it needs the most nutrients, so applying good winter fertilizer is very important. Before bringing the pot indoors, use bone meal, fried sesame, cooked soybeans, etc., or New High Lipid Film, and water it on once every 15 to 20 days; you can also water the roots with a soaking solution of animal and plant residues. Make sure the fertilizer is rotted and applied diluted to prevent damage from concentrated fertilizer.
Light adjustment. The clivia likes scattered light and avoids direct strong light. When caring for it indoors in winter, the pot should be placed in a place with sufficient light. Especially before flowering, there should be good light, which helps the flower buds develop plump and strong. Spraying New High Lipid Film together with Flower Strengthening Pedicel Agent can activate the positive energy of plant ecological growth, broaden the plant's vessel pathways, and enhance the clivia's water and fertilizer uptake, yield and quality. After flowering, appropriately lower the temperature, avoid strong light, and maintain good ventilation, which helps extend the flowering period.
Protecting the leaves. Fat leaves make strong flowers; green leaves make bright flowers. Short, broad, thick, green, shiny and upright leaves are the characteristics of a healthy clivia and the basis for promoting flowering and improving ornamental value. To maintain strong leaf quality, in addition to providing reasonable fertilizer and water, the leaf surface must be kept clean to improve photosynthetic efficiency. Methods for protecting the leaves: first, regularly wash the leaves, spraying and rinsing with the same clean water or wiping dust off polluted leaves to keep the leaf surface clean; second, promptly spray General Tree Guardian fungicide to prevent leaf spot, leaf blight and stem rot, ensuring the leaves stay green and the flowers stay bright.