What are the prevention and control measures for leaf rot in Clivia?
Clivia, just like its name suggests, is like a modest gentleman, and it is especially appealing when it grows. Whether it is flowering or not, it is a very good ornamental plant, and many people like to keep a pot of it. Its leaves are emerald green, and its flowers bloom in clusters, which is very attractive. However, when growing Clivia, you will also encounter many unsatisfactory situations, for example, yellowing leaves in Clivia is quite common...
Clivia has a dignified plant shape, neatly arranged leaves, and glossy dark green foliage. It is often said that its flowers are less worth admiring than its leaves, and it is a type of flower that people very much like to grow. So do you know how to select Clivia? Next, follow the editor to take a look at the tips for selecting Clivia. In judging whether a Clivia variety is good or bad, its leaves account for a large proportion. So what characteristics do the leaves of top-grade Clivia have? 1. The leaves of top-grade Clivia should be short and wide, with a length between 9 cm and 12 cm, and a length-to-width ratio within 4:1. Some varieties can reach 2:1, or even 1:1, such as Henglan.
Clivia is suitable for living in a humid environment. If the light is relatively strong, the leaves will become rougher, which will also affect its ornamental value. Sometimes, we see leaf rot in Clivia, and many friends are troubled about how to solve it. Below, the editor will introduce it to everyone.
1. If Clivia is exposed to strong light for a long time, not only will the leaves become rough and lose their emerald green color, but it is also often prone to "sunscald," causing the leaves to suddenly turn yellow and dry up, and in severe cases the entire leaf turns yellow. Therefore, in summer, provide shade for two or three hours around noon. Once the leaves have turned yellow, you can cut off the leaves and force new leaves to grow again.
2. If the fertilizer and water are too much and too concentrated, the leaves are not kept clean, or they are infected by mold, it will lead to leaf rot. The leaves begin to rot from the base, the center of the leaf cluster, or the outside of the leaves. In severe cases, all the leaves rot away in five or six days. Water control and appropriate fertilization should be carried out in time to keep the potting soil moist above and below. After discovering rotten leaves, immediately cut off the rotten part, then sprinkle oxytetracycline powder around the rotten leaves, thoroughly, and place it in a ventilated and bright place.
3. When the temperature rises above 25°C, the growth of Clivia is inhibited. If fertilization continues, the leaves will become weak and leggy, causing the plant to become unhealthy, and even root rot and stem rot. Excessive fertilization will cause newly grown leaves to suddenly curl up. You should replace the soil or continue watering thoroughly several times, so that the concentrated fertilizer is washed away and diluted.
4. During the plum rain period, excessive humidity, poor ventilation, and hot temperatures will cause the leaves to wither and reduce resistance to diseases. Use 0.1% carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl for alternating spraying, once every 10 days.
5. Excessive watering causes root rot, and the leaves gradually turn yellow and fall off from the bottom upward. The plant should be dug out, the soil washed off, the rotten diseased roots cut off, and dried in the sun for four or five days so that the root system shrinks slightly, then repotted. If half-watering is often done, the root system will become shriveled, and the leaves will also turn yellow and fall off from the bottom upward. Water thoroughly in time.
6. Clivia has fleshy roots and a relatively weak ability to absorb water. In addition, the leaves are thick and contain a lot of water. If the potting soil is too wet or too dry for a long time, it will cause water to flow backward, and the leaves will gradually turn black and rot. Therefore, it is advisable to keep the potting soil on the dry side. What is even more important to note is that, regardless of whether the plant is small, medium, or large, watering onto the leaves in the center, or frequent rain, or water flowing into the center, will cause the new leaves in the center to rot, and in severe cases the center will also rot. Therefore, when watering Clivia, do not water the leaves, and especially avoid watering into the center leaves.
7. High temperatures, strong sun, little rain, a dry environment, poor ventilation, poor drainage, or applying raw fertilizer will all cause the leaves to scorch yellow or fall off. Use loose, slightly dry soil, apply fully decomposed and fermented diluted fertilizer, and place it in a ventilated and cool environment.
8. Unfermented horse manure or meat bones used as a bottom layer at the bottom of the pot are all likely to breed white nematodes, causing the leaves to scorch yellow. The potting soil should be changed and the plant replanted.
9. If numb-skin-like yellow spots appear in the center of the leaves, on the surface it looks like the leaves are diseased and infected, but in reality there is a problem with the roots, for example, the potting soil is too wet, or the placement area is stuffy and unventilated, or raw fertilizer and concentrated fertilizer have been applied, all of which can cause the above symptoms. If too much fertilizer, too concentrated fertilizer, or raw fertilizer has been applied, the soil should be changed immediately. If the placement is improper, the location should be changed, and the potting soil should be kept on the dry side.
10. Due to the activity of mold in the potting soil, spots appear on the leaves. Use formalin promptly. If leaf spots have already appeared, you can use 1000 times oxytetracycline or tobacco stem water soaking liquid to wipe the leaf spots, which can control the development of the leaf spots.