What to do about rotten leaves on a Clivia miniata bonsai? Cause analysis and treatment methods

Some flower growers find that their Clivia miniata has rotten leaves and don't know what to do. Don't panic first; figure out what is causing the rotten leaves so you can treat the root cause. If you handle it blindly, you still won't fundamentally solve the problem of rotten leaves.

What to do about rotten leaves on Clivia miniata

Below are several situations that cause rotten leaves on Clivia miniata.

1. If Clivia miniata is exposed to strong light for a long time, the leaves not only become rough and lose their emerald green color, but are also often prone to sunscald, causing the leaves to suddenly turn yellow and dry up, and in severe cases the entire leaf turns yellow. Therefore, in summer around midday, shade it for two to three hours. Once the leaves have turned yellow, you can cut off the leaves and force new leaves to grow.

2. If the fertilizer and water are too much and too concentrated, the leaves are not kept clean, or they are infected by mold, all of these can cause rotten leaves. The leaves begin to rot from the base, the center, or the outside of the leaf, and in severe cases all the leaves rot away in five to six days. Control water in time and fertilize appropriately so that the potting soil is moist from top to bottom. After discovering rotten leaves, immediately cut off the rotten parts, then sprinkle oxytetracycline powder around the rotten leaves for thorough disinfection, and place it in a ventilated, well-lit spot.

3. When the temperature rises above 25°C, the growth of Clivia miniata is inhibited. If you continue to fertilize, the leaves will become weak and leggy, making the plant unhealthy, and even causing root rot and stem rot. Over-fertilizing will make newly grown leaves suddenly curl up. You should replace the soil or continue watering thoroughly several times to wash away and dilute the concentrated fertilizer.

4. During the plum rain period, excessive humidity, poor ventilation and hot temperatures will cause the leaf tips to wither and weaken resistance to disease. Use 0.1% carbendazim and thiophanate for alternating spraying, once every 10 days.

5. Overwatering causes root rot, and the leaves gradually turn yellow and fall off from bottom to top. You should dig out the plant, rinse off the soil, cut off the rotten diseased roots, and dry it in the sun for four to five days so the root system shrinks slightly, then repot it. If you often water only the surface, the root system will shrivel and the leaves will also turn yellow and fall off from bottom to top, so water thoroughly in time.

6. Clivia miniata has fleshy roots with a weak ability to absorb water, and its leaves are thick and contain a lot of water. If the potting soil is too wet or too dry for a long time, it will cause water to flow backward, and the leaf tips will gradually turn black and rot. Therefore, it is best to keep the potting soil on the dry side. Even more important to note: regardless of whether it is a small, medium or large plant, pouring water on the central leaves, or frequent rain, or water running into the center, will all cause the new leaves in the center to rot, and in severe cases even the heart will rot. So when watering Clivia miniata, do not pour water on the leaves, and especially avoid pouring it into the central leaves.

7. High temperatures, strong sun, little rain, a dry environment, poor ventilation, poor drainage, or applying raw manure will all cause the leaves to scorch yellow or fall off. Use loose, slightly dry soil, apply well-rotted and fermented dilute fertilizer, and place it in a ventilated, cool environment.

8. Unfermented horse manure or meat bones used as drainage at the bottom of the pot are prone to breeding white nematodes, causing the leaves to scorch yellow. You should change the potting soil and replant.

9. If pitted yellow spots appear in the center of the leaves, on the surface it looks like a leaf infection, but in fact there is a problem with the roots. For example, overly wet potting soil, or a stuffy, unventilated placement spot, or applying raw manure and concentrated fertilizer, will all produce the above symptoms. If too much or too concentrated fertilizer was applied, or raw manure was applied, replace the soil immediately; if the placement is inappropriate, change the location and keep the potting soil on the dry side.

10. Due to mold activity in the potting soil, spots form on the leaves; disinfect in time with formalin. If leaf spots have already appeared, you can wipe the leaf spots with 1000-fold oxytetracycline or tobacco stem water soak to control the spread of the leaf spots.