Why does a clivia need its soil changed twice a year?

(Part two), why does the soil need changing twice a year?

1. The soil used for clivia is a nutrient soil made mainly from leaf mold and pine needles, with a small amount of river sand and charcoal residue added. The nutrients in this kind of nutrient soil last at most half a year before the clivia has absorbed them all. When you change the soil, you can see it: after half a year the old potting soil has turned to mud, not only devoid of nutrients but also extremely poor in air permeability.

Therefore, changing the soil twice a year is essential. Of course, if you insist on not changing the soil, it is not impossible. Clivia has very strong stress resistance, and bare roots can survive for dozens of days without dying. Without watering or changing the soil, it will not die for a while, but growing well is difficult. I have seen clivias kept for twenty or thirty years with only a few leaves, and this has a certain connection with not changing the pot, not changing the soil, and inadequate care.

2. How to change the soil?

(1) Preparing materials before changing the soil: leaf mold, pine needles, river sand, charcoal residue (in autumn mix in a 5:2:2:1 ratio; in spring it can be adjusted up or down), mix well and set aside. Also prepare solid fertilizers such as large and small hemp seeds and sunflower seeds, roasted and set aside (note that the amount must not be too large), and at the same time choose some special pots suited to the clivia's size and set them aside.

(2) Stop watering the clivia for 5 to 15 days (depending on pot size) so that the moisture in the potting soil is close to zero. The purpose is to avoid damaging the roots when changing the soil and to speed up recovery.

(3) Turn out the pot and knock off the soil to check the root growth, remove rotten roots and hollow roots, then begin filling soil and potting up:

Step one: use two pieces of tile to cover the pot hole; they should cover but not seal tightly, block but not completely, so as to allow water and air through without losing soil or exposing roots.

Step two: spread a layer of soil at the bottom of the pot (you can also combine this with a base fertilizer layer). After spreading, hold the clivia with the roots facing up, exposing the root crown, and fill it with plain soil, then use the roots to wrap the soil in the root crown, and put it into the pot with the root wrap facing down. Do not let the soil in the root crown scatter.

Step three: with one hand steadying the root crown and the other hand filling soil around the inside of the pot wall (in autumn you can combine this by mixing solid fertilizer into the soil or using it as a waist fertilizer). The soil should be filled evenly; as you fill, straighten the clivia with your hand and firm the soil. Note here that filling soil means using the soil inside the pot wall and outside the root crown, together with the soil in the root crown, to squeeze or lock the roots in place rather than press them down. The purpose is to let the root system spread out and grow smoothly.