Why doesn't the clivia bloom? Care methods to make it bloom every year

Many flower lovers say, the clivia I've been growing for several years just won't bloom, what's the reason? It happens to be summer right now, so Xiaoqi will talk about clivia, from now until it blooms in winter. If you thoroughly understand and learn the content below, your clivia will bloom every year.

First is step one, of course we first need to prepare a clivia. If you don't have one, as soon as autumn arrives, get a clivia first; of course getting one now is also fine. After buying it, pot it first, water it thoroughly after potting, and put it in a cool, ventilated place; light or no light is fine. Right now it basically isn't growing, keep the soil moist, let it adapt to the soil environment, and it will only grow quickly after the Start of Autumn.

Caring for clivia in summer means watering less, keeping the soil slightly moist, avoiding strong sun; a bit of scattered light or no light is fine, but ventilation must be good. Keep caring for it this way until the Start of Autumn.

After the Start of Autumn, temperatures begin to drop, the day-night temperature difference begins to increase, and light intensity weakens. If you're growing clivia, now is the best time to repot it. After a year of growing, the nutrients in the potting soil are mostly used up; change to new soil, the soil contains sufficient nutrients, the clivia starts growing, and with sufficient nutrients it will grow fast. For the soil used when repotting clivia, we'd best use a special soil for clivia; leaf mold soil is most suitable, add some pine needle soil appropriately to adjust the soil's pH, because clivia likes slightly acidic soil. 4 parts leaf mold soil plus 1 part pine needles, a perfect mix; of course we can also use our own fermented leaves and the like mixed with pine needles. (The soil must be disinfected well before use; you can mix carbendazim into the soil or use carbendazim diluted with water to water the first settling watering, and pest control must also be done well; you can scald the soil with boiling water or put the soil in a plastic bag and heat it in the microwave)

Choosing a pot: as for the pot material, it doesn't really matter, as long as you use the soil mix above, the drainage and water retention are both very good, and there's no need to worry at all about root rot. Of course a ceramic pot is best, the soil dries fast and doesn't become waterlogged. Try not to choose too large a pot; if the plant is small and the pot is large with a lot of soil, the water won't dry for a long time after watering, which easily leads to waterlogging and causes root rot.

When potting, we first need to remove all the original potting soil, check whether the roots have any rot. If there is rot, cut off the rotten roots, apply plant ash or carbendazim to the wounds, then wrap the parts above the roots with newspaper, leaving only the roots exposed, put it in the sun for 2 hours, then pot it. When potting, fill soil in the middle of all the roots, place the clivia into the pot, put a tile shard or a special pot-bottom pad at the bottom of the pot, add soil little by little, press the soil firm with your hands along the sides of the pot, and leave a few cm of watering space; potting is complete. (Waist fertilizer and base fertilizer can be used or not; leaf mold soil has nutrients, and later we will also fertilize it, so this step can be completely omitted)

After potting, water it thoroughly, watering several times, until water flows out of the bottom hole, then press the soil again along the sides of the pot, so the soil fully contacts the roots without leaving gaps. Then put it in a cool, ventilated place where it can get scattered light to recover. When you see it clearly start to grow, gradually increase the light (give it one hour of light the first day, two hours the second day, three hours the third day, and finally full-day light; this is gradually increasing) to let it adapt to the light, and begin normal management.

Generally, once recovery is successful and it starts growing, the potting soil contains nutrients, so no fertilizing is needed within one month of repotting. After one month, start fertilizing it. Choose phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, that is, potassium dihydrogen phosphate; the concentration should not be too high, around 1:800 is fine. We can also choose Flower Duoduo water-soluble fertilizer, this fertilizer won't burn the flowers, or Osmocote A2 is also fine; both are phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Osmocote is a slow-release fertilizer, sprinkle it on the surface of the potting soil, and each watering will seep a portion into the pot for the roots to absorb; the fertilizer effect lasts more than 3 months. Keep the frequency of water-soluble fertilizer at about once every 10 days, continuing until the flower scape emerges, and stop fertilizing when it is about to bloom.

Watering during this period: when the surface of the potting soil is dry, insert your hand into the soil; if you can't feel moisture, water it thoroughly. The care environment is different, so you can't say to water once every few days; that's pure nonsense. Light must be sufficient.

Another thing is the temperature difference. Autumn itself is a season with a large day-night temperature difference; a day-night temperature difference of at least above 10 degrees is the stage suitable for clivia to differentiate flower buds and bloom. We can put it outdoors, or beside a window, keeping the lowest nighttime temperature above 10 degrees and the highest temperature between 25-30 degrees. With this temperature difference controlled for about one and a half to two months, the clivia will certainly produce a flower scape.

After the flower scape emerges, don't stop fertilizing; while the flower scape is out, you can add one application of a mixed fertilizer to promote the flower scape's elongation and help prevent scape clamping. When the flower scape grows to a certain height and is preparing to bloom, stop fertilizing. During the period when the flower scape is emerging, note: one, keep maintaining the temperature difference. Two, fertilizer must not be stopped. Three, light must be sufficient. Four, do not lack water. These four points are the key to preventing clivia from scape clamping, and none can be missing.