What are the reasons orchids are prone to dying in winter

In winter, orchids are in a dormant or semi-dormant state. If cared for improperly, they are prone to physiological disorders. In mild cases, the leaves turn yellow and withered but can still sprout again in spring; in severe cases, it can lead to death. The reasons include:

1. Potting soil too dry or too wet: Although orchids should have their water greatly reduced in winter, they must not go unwatered, and the potting soil should not be allowed to dry out completely before watering again. If the potting soil is too dry, and combined with the dry winter climate, the pseudobulbs are prone to shriveling, and other tissues affected by excessive water loss will have their metabolism impaired. The plant will grow poorly, with mild cases showing withered leaves and severe cases leading to death. In winter, orchids most dread waterlogged potting soil; too much water and poor soil aeration easily cause root rot and death.

2. Unsuitable water and soil: For watering orchids, it is best to use rainwater or river water. If well water or fresh tap water is used, the potting soil tends to become alkaline, the soil quality deteriorates, the potting soil becomes compacted, water drainage is poor, and aeration is poor, making the potting soil prone to staying too wet in winter and greatly increasing the likelihood of root rot. Therefore, orchid potting soil should be a slightly acidic, loose soil, with a pH of 5-6.5 being suitable.

3. Improper watering method. In other seasons, orchids should be watered in the morning or evening, but in winter it is best to water in the midday sun, and after watering, place them in the sun for 1-2 hours, and move them indoors only after the water at the base of the leaf clusters has dried. If watering is done indoors, water easily accumulates at the base of the leaf clusters and stays too wet, causing the pseudobulbs to rot and leading to plant death. Because different orchid varieties require different amounts of water, watering in winter should be handled differently. For example, autumn orchids (Cymbidium ensifolium) should be watered thoroughly before winter begins, while spring orchids (Cymbidium goeringii) should be kept moist rather than thoroughly watered; during Major Snow, autumn orchids need no watering, while spring orchids are best kept moist; from Winter Solstice to Minor Snow, autumn orchids and spring orchids may go unwatered or be kept at a level of eight parts dry and two parts moist.

4. Improper pot choice: For cultivating orchids, clay pots are best. Clay pots have better aeration than glazed pots, drain water quickly, and the potting soil dries quickly too, which is very suitable for orchid growth and less likely to cause prolonged excessive moisture, so there is also less disease and pests. Using glazed pots, especially in winter, often easily leads to root rot due to waterlogged potting soil. In addition, orchids must absolutely not be fertilized in winter; winter fertilization most easily causes orchid root rot. Indoor temperature and humidity in winter should not be too high or too low, otherwise the plant will also grow poorly. Coal smoke should be avoided, and when room temperature is high, doors and windows should be opened for proper ventilation; when the temperature is too low, take care to protect against cold and freezing. Only in this way can orchids overwinter safely and not wither and die.

Four essentials for dividing orchids into pots

First, master the timing of repotting division. It is generally done during the dormant period after flowering. For orchids that bloom in spring, divide the pots from late September to November or before the new buds begin to sprout; for orchids that bloom in summer and autumn, do it from early to late April.

Second, wash the roots and leaves before planting. After the potting soil has dried thoroughly, gently take out the plant, remove the soil, cut off rotten roots and broken roots, wash the roots and leaves clean with water, and let them dry. After the orchid roots have softened, use scissors to cut apart at the pseudobulb clusters with large gaps, coat the cut surfaces with charcoal powder or sulfur powder (to prevent infection by pathogens), and then plant them.

Third, the seedlings and roots must be in close contact with the potting soil. When potting, place the plant in the middle of the pot so that the root system is distributed evenly. When planting, face the new buds outward to favor growth. Hold the seedling with one hand and fill in the nutrient soil with the other, shaking the flower pot while filling so that the roots and soil are in close contact.

Fourth, water thoroughly. After potting, water thoroughly and place in a wind-sheltered, slightly shady and humid place, then control the water amount appropriately thereafter until the new buds sprout.