Detailed Explanation of Monthly Orchid Cultivation and Management Techniques
January
(1) Freeze prevention is the top priority. This month has two solar terms: Minor Cold (the 5th or 6th) and Major Cold (the 20th to 22nd). Except in China's tropical and subtropical regions, the monthly average temperature is below zero. As cold air from the north keeps moving south, this month is the coldest period of the year; in China's tropical regions, there is a record of an extreme minimum temperature of minus one degree. Orchid management should put freeze prevention first. Once a cold wave strikes, windows should be kept tightly closed morning and evening to ensure the orchid pots are not damaged by freezing. If the temperature in the orchid room falls below zero, heating may be added, but note that the heating temperature must not be too high; about 5 degrees at night and about 10 degrees during the day is suitable. Also note that coal stoves must not be used for heating, to prevent coal gas from damaging the seedlings.
(2) Let the orchids receive sufficient light, and pay attention to ventilation. The sunlight this month is soft, so the orchids can safely be given sufficient light. On clear days, if the temperature in the orchid room is around 10 degrees, the windows can be opened during the day for ventilation, but they still need to be closed promptly at night.
(3) The temperature this month is low, so watering should be done in the morning on clear days, keeping the water temperature as close to the air temperature as possible. Never pour water into the flower buds when watering, to prevent the buds from rotting.
February
(1) Watch the weather and guard against freeze damage. This month has two solar terms: Start of Spring (the 4th or 5th) and Rain Water (the 19th or 20th). Although the temperature this month is slightly higher than last month by 1-2°, except in China's tropical and subtropical regions the monthly average temperature is below zero, cold waves still strike from time to time, and the weather is still very cold. Orchid care is still mainly about freeze prevention.
(2) Remove the weak and keep the strong; thin the buds appropriately. After a winter of dormancy, the flower buds begin to grow faster. Orchid growers should, according to the strength or weakness of the potted orchids and following the principle of removing the weak and keeping the strong, promptly thin the buds on newly formed buds after the Start of Winter and on buds borne by the back pseudobulbs. Generally, a full pot of strong Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid) plants keeps 2-3 flower buds, and Cymbidium faberi (Hui orchid) keeps just one bud. This concentrates the nutrients and helps the orchids bloom to standard.
(3) Apply foliar fertilizer appropriately. As spring returns to the earth, orchid buds begin to stir, and very dilute fertilizer may be applied, but organic or inorganic fertilizer must not be applied to the roots. Foliar application of inorganic fertilizer or biological bacterial fertilizer should still be the main method, to promote the vitality of new buds and ensure the nutritional needs of new bud growth.
(4) Clean the orchid room and kill insects and sterilize. Dead branches, fallen leaves and scorched leaf tips should be cut off promptly, and a thorough insecticide and disinfection should be carried out on orchid-growing tools and the orchid garden. When spraying chemicals, note three points: first, the solution must not be too concentrated, to avoid harming the orchid buds; second, spray on clear mornings; third, the amount of chemical must not be too much, to avoid pouring into the leaves and rotting the heart.
March
(1) Before the flower stem bolts and blooms, sufficient light is suitable; shade when the flowers open. This month has two solar terms: Awakening of Insects (the 5th or 6th) and Spring Equinox (the 20th or 21st). Except in Heilongjiang Province and the high-cold regions of Tibet, the average temperature is above zero. The weather gradually warms and the sunlight is soft. Orchids with developing buds should be placed in a sunny spot to receive sufficient light before blooming; after the buds begin to shoot up, they must be appropriately shaded, otherwise the petals tend to turn yellow, and the lip of plain-color petals turns white or slightly yellow, which damages the flower's appearance and affects its quality.
(2) Keep moisture appropriate and water cautiously; when in bloom, the potting soil should be on the dry side and air humidity should be high. This month Cymbidium goeringii is in full bloom, and air humidity should be somewhat higher. Air humidity greatly affects the length of the flower stem of Cymbidium goeringii, with the lotus-petal type being most noticeably affected. Although air humidity should be high during the flowering period, the moisture of the potting soil should not be too high and should be somewhat on the dry side. For flowers of the standard petal types, just before the buds open and the petals rise, the water in the pot should be appropriately controlled, watering less so the potting soil is slightly dry. But for the exotic flower types of orchids, when in bloom the potting soil must not be overly dry; on the contrary, it should be more moist, so as to fully display the elegance of the exotic flowers.
(3) Cut the flowers appropriately to avoid excessive nutrient consumption. Orchids consume the most nutrients while blooming; if they are allowed to bloom and fade freely, it harms their later growth, so the flowers need to be cut in good time. After Cymbidium goeringii is in full bloom, the flowers should generally be cut after about half a month; for types with multiple flowers on one stem, they should be cut five or six days after the top flower has fully opened. If it is a rare famous variety or the pot has few plants, the flowers should be cut immediately two or three days after opening.
April
(1) Open windows for ventilation and move plants out cautiously. This month has two solar terms: Pure Brightness (the 5th or 6th) and Grain Rain (the 20th or 21st). The weather is warm, and frost and snow have basically stopped. Except for extreme cold-wave weather, all potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care. For orchids grown in closed orchid rooms, the windows should be opened appropriately to allow ventilation.
(2) Sterilize and kill insects; blooming orchids need shade. This month orchids can receive full light, and generally no shading is needed. This month Cymbidium faberi begins to bloom; during the flowering period it should be shaded, otherwise the flower color is poor and the bloom quality suffers. As the temperature gradually rises, pests and diseases begin to breed, so fungicides and insecticides should be used promptly to sterilize and kill insects in the orchid room and on the orchid plants.
(3) Repot and divide to promote growth. Spring is one of the best seasons for repotting and dividing orchids. If a potted orchid's plants have filled the pot, or the potting soil has not been changed for more than two years, spring should be used to repot or divide it promptly.
(4) Withhold water and fertilize to promote strong buds. For potted orchids without flower buds, a thin fertilizer may be applied around the Spring Equinox and Pure Brightness. For potted orchids that have bloomed, fertilizer must be applied only after a recovery period of about ten days after flowering. Whether fertilizing potted orchids that have not bloomed or those that have finished blooming, it is best to choose clear weather, and before fertilizing, water should be withheld once appropriately; fertilizing when the potting soil is on the dry side gives the best effect. This way, on the one hand the orchid roots and potting soil absorb the fertilizer fully, and on the other hand it also stimulates the plants to sprout strong buds, with good results.
May
(1) Use sparse netting for shade. This month has two solar terms: Start of Summer (the 5th or 6th) and Grain Full (the 21st or 22nd). The temperature gradually rises and sunlight gradually strengthens, so orchids grown outdoors may be appropriately shaded with sparse netting.
(2) Fertilize to strengthen buds. This month most of the orchid's lateral buds have broken through the soil. To make the new buds strong, the orchids must be top-dressed, preferably with dilute organic fertilizer applied to the roots, in the evening, with a "revival water" poured the next morning. Foliar feeding is also possible, spraying with one-thousandth urea plus one-thousandth monopotassium phosphate; to prevent fertilizer damage, water should be sprayed the next morning to wash the leaves. Biological bacterial fertilizers may also be sprayed, such as Cugen Sheng, Zhiquan, Lanjun Wang, Xishuo and others. When growing orchids with granular media, it is best to alternate organic fertilizer, inorganic fertilizer and biological bacterial fertilizer, once a week.
(3) Water cautiously to prevent bud rot. When the orchid buds break through the soil, open their mouths and unfold leaves, the buds should be covered before watering, to prevent water accumulating in the bud heart and causing rot and disease. If water accidentally gets into the buds, use a toothpick wrapped in toilet paper to absorb the water dry, to eliminate future trouble.
(4) Pay attention to preventing pests and diseases. This month, due to damp shade and gradually rising temperatures, insects and fungi breed, making insecticide and sterilization work very important. Spray a fungicide once every ten days, alternating thiophanate-methyl, carbendazim, copper hydroxide and others to improve efficacy. Spray an insecticide once every half month, mainly omethoate and dicofol, which are most effective against scale insects and red spider mites.
June
(1) This month has two solar terms: Grain in Ear (the 6th or 7th) and Summer Solstice (the 21st or 22nd). This month has the longest daytime hours of the year, with high temperatures, strong light and muggy weather, so shade and ventilation work must be done well to avoid sunscald that burns the orchid leaves.
(2) This month the Jiangnan region is in the plum rain period, with heavy rainfall, and other places also see gradually more rain. Where air pollution is not serious, light rain and moderate rain may be allowed to fall on the orchids, but it is best not to let heavy rain or rainstorms fall on them, to avoid water accumulation causing root rot and bud rot. During the plum rain period air humidity is high, so watering should be reduced.
(3) This month is the orchid's budding and leaf-unfolding period, requiring a relatively humid environment. If the potting soil is too dry and air humidity too low, it easily causes stiff buds and shrinkage of the orchid root growth points, which is very unfavorable to orchid growth. Orchid bud-stage management should emphasize moisture, striving to create a relatively moist environment in the growing area and the potting soil. If the climate is dry after the plum rain, the relative air humidity during the day can be kept no lower than 40% through various means such as sprinkling water in the orchid garden, spraying water on the leaves, humidifying with water trays, and humidifying with a humidifier. On the premise of ensuring the potting soil is air-permeable and drains well, watering may be done somewhat more frequently, keeping the potting soil relatively moist, to ensure the orchids sprout, emerge and unfold leaves and grow strong.
July
(1) Emphasize heat prevention, shading and cooling. This month has two solar terms: Minor Heat (the 7th or 8th) and Major Heat (the 23rd or 24th). The monthly average temperature is around 30°, making it the hottest month of the year, with unbearable heat. Due to the intense heat, shading, ventilation and cooling work must be strengthened. In muggy weather, exhaust fans, miniature electric fans and the like may be used to create a gentle breeze and promote air circulation. At the same time, sprinkle water on the ground frequently to cool it and prevent the heat from harming the orchids.
(2) Water cautiously to prevent bud rot. This month the temperature is high; when watering, generally do not use the soaking-pot method or the sprinkling method, and spray or mist as little as possible, to avoid water pouring into the leaf heart and causing rot. In the high-temperature season, the potting soil must not be wet for long periods, to prevent root rot, stem rot, soft rot and bud rot. Water management is the focus of this month's work.
(3) Fertilize slowly. This month is hot, and orchids enter dormancy; root application of organic or inorganic fertilizer is prohibited. Foliar fertilizer is preferable, alternating one-thousandth urea plus one-thousandth monopotassium phosphate or biological bacterial fertilizer, to supplement nutrients, promote vigorous growth, and lay the foundation for next year's sprouting and flowering. Generally, spray in the evening and wash the leaves the next morning, to prevent fertilizer remaining on the leaves from being exposed to high temperatures and sunlight and damaging the seedlings.
(4) Prevent and control pests and diseases promptly. This month various pests and diseases are most likely to occur, so insecticide and sterilization work cannot be relaxed. When preventing and controlling pests and diseases, spray chemicals alternately to prevent the orchid plants from developing resistance that reduces the effect. Apply chemicals on a cool evening; the solution must not be too concentrated, to prevent chemical damage.
(5) Reinforce the orchid room and guard against rainstorms and typhoons. This month rainstorms, typhoons and other extreme weather occur frequently in various places, so preventive work must be done well, taking reinforcement and rain-shelter measures to prevent violent wind and rainstorms from overturning the pots and breaking the orchid leaves.
August
(1) Prevent heat and cool down. This month has two solar terms: Start of Autumn (the 7th or 8th) and End of Heat (the 23rd or 24th). The monthly average temperature is similar to last month, and the hot weather makes it the second high-temperature month of the year. Pay attention to heat prevention and cooling, and ensure ventilation.
(2) Water promptly to avoid "water-chestnut shell dryness." In the golden autumn season, the sky is high and clouds are light, the sunlight is bright, and evaporation is great. The potting soil easily dries upward from the bottom of the pot, forming "water-chestnut shell dryness," which affects flower bud development and harms the orchid roots. Measures such as humidifying with water troughs, sprinkling water on the ground, and humidifying with a humidifier can be taken to strive to create a relative air humidity of no lower than 40%. To avoid water-chestnut shell dryness, orchid growers must frequently observe the moisture of the potting soil; when the potting soil is found to be on the dry side, water thoroughly in good time, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged, and never let the potting soil become too dry.
(3) Proceed from actual conditions and let the orchids receive more light. After the middle of this month, the degree of shading should be reduced as much as possible according to the orchid-growing environment. Except for orchids grown in courtyards and on rooftop platforms, which need appropriate shading, other growing sites can boldly let the orchids receive sufficient light, especially full pots of strong plants. At night, the sliding windows of the orchid room should be opened as much as possible to allow full ventilation and to maximize the temperature difference between day and night.
(4) Fertilize to promote strength and buds. From the middle and late part of this month, organic fertilizer should be applied to the roots of strong growing Chinese orchids, or foliar fertilizer may be used, the two alternating. Fertilizing should appropriately increase the phosphorus and potassium components, to help produce flower buds while ensuring the growth of autumn buds and the development of strong early-spring buds. Fertilizing is best done with a dilute solution on clear evenings, and a "revival water" should be poured the next morning to prevent fertilizer damage.
(5) Prevent extreme weather. This month typhoons sometimes strike the Jiangnan coast, and other regions also often have rainstorm weather. The orchid room should be reinforced, and typhoon and rainstorm prevention work done well.
(6) Do not relax in preventing and controlling pests and diseases. This month pests and diseases are very rampant, and it is a high-incidence month for soft rot, stem rot and other pests. Insect control and disease prevention work must be done well. Sterilizing and killing insects is best done on clear evenings as the sun is about to set, spraying both the orchid leaves and the entire orchid garden.
September
(1) Remove shading and give sufficient light. This month has two solar terms: White Dew (the 8th or 9th) and Autumn Equinox (the 23rd or 24th). The monthly average temperature is around 25°, the summer heat gradually fades, and the sunlight grows softer day by day. According to the conditions of the orchid room, the orchids can be given as much sun as possible, to strengthen their ability to resist pests and diseases and to withstand the cold through the winter. From late in the month, shading work can basically come to an end.
(2) Increase humidity and avoid dryness. The autumn climate is dry, so the ancient teaching "do not let things dry in autumn" should be followed, and care should be taken to increase air humidity to avoid water-chestnut shell dryness. Measures such as humidifying with water troughs, sprinkling water on the ground, and humidifying with a humidifier can be taken to strive to create a relative air humidity of no lower than 40%. Frequently observe the moisture of the potting soil; when the potting soil is found to be on the dry side, water thoroughly in good time, keeping the soil moist but not waterlogged, and never let the potting soil become too dry.
(3) Kill insects and sterilize. This month scale insects, red spider mites, aphids, slugs and snails are very rampant, and soft rot and black spot disease occur frequently. Insecticide and sterilization must be done promptly, and the varieties of chemicals should be changed regularly. A comprehensive disinfection of the orchid site may be carried out 1-2 times. The time of application is still best in the evening, which helps enhance the insecticidal and sterilizing effect.
(4) Repot and divide. After the Autumn Equinox, with clear autumn skies and refreshing air, it is a great time for repotting, changing media and division propagation. Orchids that need repotting or division can be handled promptly during this period according to the essentials of repotting and division.
(5) Distinguish buds and identify orchids. This month the flower buds begin to emerge through the soil. Pay attention to observing and identifying the color, veins and shape of various flower buds, to enhance the ability to distinguish different varieties. If the aim is to increase propagation and produce more new and strong buds next year, the flower buds may be removed.
(6) Fertilize according to the plants. This month is the last period for fertilizing orchids. For large, strong plants, appropriate fertilizer should be applied to ensure large buds and large plants next year; but for diseased or weak plants, generally do not fertilize, and clean cultivation is preferable. Fertilizing can be done alternately by root application and foliar application, and organic fertilizer, inorganic fertilizer and biological bacterial fertilizer can be used alternately.
October
(1) Let the orchids bathe in sunlight. This month has two solar terms: Cold Dew (the 8th or 9th) and Frost's Descent (the 23rd or 24th). With clear autumn skies and soft sunlight, shading work is declared over, and the orchid plants can receive sunlight all day, promoting their growth and plump flower buds, strengthening their ability to resist disease and cold, and helping the plants through the winter.
(2) Increase the humidity of the orchid room. This month precipitation is low and air humidity is on the low side, so the potting medium dries easily. Pay attention to increasing the air humidity of the orchid room to prevent the orchid leaves from drying at the tips and scorching. When autumn rain comes, it may be allowed to fall on the orchids, but continuous overcast rain must still be screened off; never let the orchid plants be rained on for long periods, to prevent waterlogging and root rot, which otherwise easily causes black spot disease.
(3) Apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. The temperature in October is moderate, another golden season for orchid growth, so phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly and generously to meet the various nutritional needs of orchid growth, so as to grow into large, strong plants before dormancy, laying a solid foundation for early and large buds next year, helping them through the winter and strengthening their ability to withstand the cold. But by the end of the month, in principle, the year's fertilizing work should come to an end.
(4) Prevent frost. In the latter part of this month, early frost may come to Jiangnan, and in the northern temperate and high-cold regions the temperature is sometimes below zero. Pay attention to weather forecasts and do frost and freeze prevention work well.
(5) Repot and divide in good time. This month most orchid plants have matured, making it the best time of the year to exchange and introduce varieties and to repot, divide and change media. For those that truly need repotting, this work is best completed before the end of this month. If the new plants have not fully matured, it is best to postpone repotting and division to favor the continued growth of the new plants, and it is not too late to do it next spring.
November
(1) Do freeze prevention work well. This month has two solar terms: Start of Winter (the 7th or 8th) and Minor Snow (the 22nd or 23rd), and winter begins. This month early frost comes to Jiangnan one after another, so frost prevention work must be done well. In the north, strong cold waves strike from time to time, bringing low-temperature frost. From the end of this month, the severe winter begins, so winter cold-prevention preparations must be made well. Pay attention to weather forecasts and take protective measures promptly to avoid freeze damage.
(2) Clean the orchid room, disinfect and sterilize, and actively prevent orchid pests and diseases. In winter the temperature drops noticeably, orchid vegetative growth ends, and the plants shift to the reproductive growth stage. After the Start of Winter, before the temperature drops to zero, a thorough housecleaning of the orchid room should be carried out on a clear day, removing all kinds of dirt and debris from the orchid room, ensuring no sanitary dead corners are left, and a comprehensive sterilization and disinfection of the orchid room and orchid plants should be carried out, to minimize or eliminate the occurrence of various pests and diseases, which will surely yield twice the result with half the effort.
(3) Give sufficient light, temper the orchid plants, and accumulate energy for next year's flowering and sprouting. Winter is the reproductive growth season for Chinese orchids; the flower buds grow slowly and new buds are also developing, so sufficient light is especially important. Winter sunlight is soft, so whether orchids are grown on balconies, in courtyards or in dedicated orchid rooms, the shading facilities should be removed in good time, boldly letting the orchids bathe fully in sunlight to accumulate the energy needed for next year's flowering and sprouting. If the growing site has insufficient sunlight in winter, supplementary lighting should be provided with biological growth regulation lamps, otherwise it directly affects the orchids' flowering and sprouting.
(4) Repotting and introducing plants can still be done this month. Those that have not yet completed repotting need to finish it promptly in the first and middle ten days of the month; this helps the orchid plants recover and favors early and large buds next year.
December
(1) Freeze prevention should be put first. This month has two solar terms: Major Snow (the 7th or 8th) and Winter Solstice (the 22nd or 23rd). Except in China's tropical and subtropical regions, the monthly average temperature is below zero, and freeze prevention is the focus of orchid care this month. When the weather is cold, close the windows. At night the temperature is best kept around 5° and must not be lower than 0°; during the day it is best kept around 10°. If the temperature in the orchid room falls below zero, heating measures should be taken; water-filled radiator heating is best, and electric heaters or air-conditioning heating are also acceptable, but coal stoves must never be used for heating in the orchid room, to prevent the orchid seedlings from being poisoned.
(2) Sufficient light and attention to ventilation. This month the orchids can safely be given sufficient light, but attention must be paid to ventilation in the orchid room. Although morning and evening temperatures are not high when growing orchids in winter, on clear days the temperature in a closed orchid room can sometimes reach around 20 degrees. If ventilation is poor, the orchids suffer from stuffy heat, and spots easily form on the leaves; once infected, they often recur the next year, affecting orchid growth. Therefore, in winter on clear days, if the temperature exceeds 10 degrees, windows must be opened appropriately for ventilation, especially between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., to avoid the harm of stuffy heat to the orchids.
(3) Give sufficient vernalization. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium lianpan and Cymbidium tortisepalum that already have flower buds, in winter it is best to place them on a north-facing balcony or use temperature control measures to let them fully vernalize for more than 1 month, with the daytime temperature generally not exceeding 10 degrees and the morning and evening temperature not falling below zero. Otherwise, if the temperature is too high, it is unfavorable for next year's flowering and for the blooms reaching standard.
(4) Water cautiously to prevent root rot. In winter the temperature is low, water evaporates slowly, and the orchid roots' water-absorbing capacity is relatively weak, so watering should be reduced. In winter, orchids are best watered at noon when the temperature rises, which keeps the water temperature close to the potting soil temperature and also avoids diseases caused by too great a difference between water temperature and potting soil temperature. If orchids are grown by traditional methods, it is best to water along the edge of the pot, which allows the soil to moisten slowly and is more favorable for the orchid roots to absorb water. For pots resting on bricks, the part of the pot below the bricks can also be soaked in water in good time, so that moisture rises and the potting soil stays slightly damp, with good results.
(5) Fertilizing is strictly prohibited. This month the orchids are dormant, and applying any fertilizer to the roots is strictly prohibited. On a clear day at noon, foliar fertilizer may be applied appropriately 1-2 times, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which helps improve the orchid plants' cold resistance and keep them strong.
(6) Summarize experience and raise the level of orchid growing. In light of the orchid plants' growth over the past year, conscientiously summarize successful experience and identify lessons from successes and failures, constantly raising the level of orchid growing.