Detailed Explanation of Key Orchid Care Techniques for Winter

In winter, strengthening orchid care is the key to lush growth and blooming in the coming year. The ancients' experience in growing orchids is "three parts planting, seven parts care." How to manage orchids well in winter depends on the different varieties of orchids, and different management methods should be adopted. Based on years of experience in growing orchids, to help orchids overwinter safely, management must be strengthened in four aspects: water, fertilizer, temperature and air. Water: "Do not let them dry out in summer and autumn, do not let them stay wet in winter and spring" - this is the experience our predecessors summed up for growing orchids well. Judging from the morphology and structure of orchids, they are mesophytes and are not easily killed by drying out; they inherently do not need much water. In winter, orchids enter dormancy and stop growing, so watering once a week is sufficient. (Except Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium sinense.) For water, natural water or melted snow water is best; do not water directly with tap water. (If using tap water, it must be stored in a water container for 24 hours before use.) When watering, pour water along the rim of the pot all around, so that it gradually penetrates toward the orchid roots; do not pour it into the leaves or the heart of the orchid. Fertilizer: Based on the characteristics of orchid roots, orchid roots are thick and long with no fibrous roots, and mycorrhizal fungi live symbiotically inside the roots. Generally speaking, if orchids are repotted and the soil changed every year, and the soil contains sufficient nutrients, there is absolutely no need to fertilize. Even for those repotted every 2-3 years, in winter they enter dormancy and no longer grow, so fertilizer is even less necessary. If fertilizer is applied in winter, it will make orchid roots turn black and even rot. (Except Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium kanran during their growing period.) Temperature: In winter, affected by cold waves from the north, temperatures are relatively low, so orchids placed outdoors should be moved indoors or into a balcony enclosed with aluminum alloy. Orchid pots are best placed facing south from a north-facing position, which can prevent the direct intrusion of cold waves. With this orientation, they can receive sunlight in the morning and avoid the afternoon sun, which is beneficial to orchid growth. Air: Orchids, like other plants, need air circulation. Orchids placed indoors should often be moved to a balcony or outdoors (preferably around noon) so they can absorb fresh air and get some sunlight. If placed in a balcony enclosed with aluminum alloy, the windows and doors should be opened frequently to allow air circulation. Guangdong Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Institute of Scientific and Technical Information

In winter, strengthening orchid care is the key to lush growth and blooming in the coming year. The ancients' experience in growing orchids is "three parts planting, seven parts care." How to manage orchids well in winter depends on the different varieties of orchids, and different management methods should be adopted. Based on years of experience in growing orchids, to help orchids overwinter safely, management must be strengthened in four aspects: water, fertilizer, temperature and air. Water: "Do not let them dry out in summer and autumn, do not let them stay wet in winter and spring" - this is the experience our predecessors summed up for growing orchids well. Judging from the morphology and structure of orchids, they are mesophytes and are not easily killed by drying out; they inherently do not need much water. In winter, orchids enter dormancy and stop growing, so watering once a week is sufficient. (Except Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium sinense.) For water, natural water or melted snow water is best; do not water directly with tap water. (If using tap water, it must be stored in a water container for 24 hours before use.) When watering, pour water along the rim of the pot all around, so that it gradually penetrates toward the orchid roots; do not pour it into the leaves or the heart of the orchid. Fertilizer: Based on the characteristics of orchid roots, orchid roots are thick and long with no fibrous roots, and mycorrhizal fungi live symbiotically inside the roots. Generally speaking, if orchids are repotted and the soil changed every year, and the soil contains sufficient nutrients, there is absolutely no need to fertilize. Even for those repotted every 2-3 years, in winter they enter dormancy and no longer grow, so fertilizer is even less necessary. If fertilizer is applied in winter, it will make orchid roots turn black and even rot. (Except Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium kanran during their growing period.) Temperature: In winter, affected by cold waves from the north, temperatures are relatively low, so orchids placed outdoors should be moved indoors or into a balcony enclosed with aluminum alloy. Orchid pots are best placed facing south from a north-facing position, which can prevent the direct intrusion of cold waves. With this orientation, they can receive sunlight in the morning and avoid the afternoon sun, which is beneficial to orchid growth. Air: Orchids, like other plants, need air circulation. Orchids placed indoors should often be moved to a balcony or outdoors (preferably around noon) so they can absorb fresh air and get some sunlight. If placed in a balcony enclosed with aluminum alloy, the windows and doors should be opened frequently to allow air circulation.