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How to extend the flowering period of potted roses? Master the timing and methods for extension

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Roses are called the queen of flowers, with brilliant colors, a long flowering period, and a far-reaching fragrance, representing a spirit of unyielding resilience. However, many roses grown in courtyards fail to fully tap into the potential of the rose's long flowering period. To extend the rose's flowering period is actually to increase the number of times the same plant blooms in the same year, and higher maintenance requirements must be met in terms of growing medium, fertilizing, pruning, pest and disease control, and other aspects.

Roses are called the “queen of flowers”, with brilliant colors, a long flowering period, and a far-reaching fragrance, representing a spirit of unyielding resilience. However, many roses grown in courtyards fail to fully tap into the potential of the rose's long flowering period. To extend the rose's flowering period is actually to increase the number of times the same plant blooms in the same year, and higher maintenance requirements must be met in terms of growing medium, fertilizing, pruning, pest and disease control, and other aspects.

Many rose beginners do not know that roses bloom in autumn. Generally speaking, most roses bloom in multiple seasons. After the high-temperature period in summer, roses enter a peak flowering period in autumn, usually blooming in early to mid-October (climate varies from place to place, so there are time differences). You must seize the opportunity created by changing climate conditions to cultivate flowering branches.

Theoretical calculation of the total branches and flowers of a normal potted rose (floribunda rose, shrub rose):

Cultivate 5 primary main branches (including basal shoots), with 3 secondary branches on each main branch, and 2 tertiary branches on each secondary branch. If all tertiary branches can bloom at the same time, the number of flowers on the tertiary branches is 30. Note: only the main buds are counted, and the secondary buds of the cluster-flowering type are not counted; it is very difficult for an outdoor potted rose to achieve such a sufficient and precise number of flowers.

1. Persist in changing the potting soil every year. Use the rose's dormant period in winter and spring and the early stage of new bud growth to change the potting soil, supplement with new nutrient soil, and keep the potting soil loose. When changing the potting soil, remove weeds, cut off residual roots, and untangle the root system so that it grows more new roots.

2. Improve the fertilizer supply capacity. When changing the potting soil, apply a certain amount of decomposed organic fertilizer at the bottom of the pot; during the peak growing period of the rose, apply a diluted decomposed cake fertilizer liquid once every 10-15 days. After each flowering, apply a nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizer once. For those that bloom little or not at all, apply additional quick-acting phosphate fertilizer; after the beginning of autumn, apply only phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and no nitrogen fertilizer; do not fertilize or fertilize less during the dog days and winter.

3. Pay attention to regulating temperature and light. Roses originally like warmth and light, but in the high-temperature season, potted roses should be moved to a cool place, or grass should be placed over the potting soil to lower the temperature. At the same time, water frequently; in summer, water twice a day.

4. Prune the branches regularly. After a rose blooms, it should be cut below the third compound leaf under the flower to promote strong new branches and early budding and flowering. Key points of pruning technique: weak and short branches are pruned first and pruned high; healthy branches are pruned later and pruned short, so as to promote the weak and suppress the strong, and encourage them to bloom evenly. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed 1/2, to avoid slow germination of axillary buds.

5. Eliminate pests. In spring, roses are prone to aphids, which can be sprayed with water soaked with cigarette butts or diluted trichlorfon, and the pests can be eliminated within half a day; in summer, they are prone to black spot disease and powdery mildew, both caused by excessive humidity and stuffiness. For mild cases, some diseased leaves can be removed; for severe cases, Bordeaux mixture or thiophanate, sterilizing agents, etc. can be sprayed about every 10 days for 2-3 treatments for control.

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