How do you grow a Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) so that it blooms? Flowering-period care and management points to note
Recently the Christmas cacti in the science park have also been forming buds, and their ready-to-bloom appearance fills us with anticipation. After the autumn equinox, all Christmas cacti begin flower-bud differentiation and form buds during this period, which shows that plants can adjust their growth according to the length of daily sunlight. We sometimes also have flower-loving members of the public come to ask us, saying that the Christmas cactus they grow only produces buds but does not bloom. What is going on?
A potted grafted Christmas cactus that has formed properly, with good support, can reach a crown diameter of two to three chi after three years and can bloom two or three hundred flowers at the same time, with both form and colour in full beauty. Especially in the depths of winter, when outdoor flowers and plants are all withering, the Christmas cactus is in full bloom and full of vitality. The emerald green, thick, fleshy phylloclades set off one after another brightly coloured small flower, making it especially beautiful. But to make it gorgeous and colourful year after year is not an easy thing; besides the usual careful cultivation, the care and management before and after flowering are particularly important.
After the autumn cool sets in, the Christmas cactus can form buds and enter its flowering period. At this time, move the plant into a sunny spot indoors, so as to avoid damaging the buds because of the large temperature difference between day and night. At the same time, prune the flower shape, appropriately cutting away those uneven stem segments and the excessive weak small buds hanging on the main stem segments. Do not be at all reluctant to do this. There are two necessary reasons for doing so: first, after trimming, the plant shape is well proportioned and keeps an umbrella shape, achieving the goal of beauty. Second, removing the weak and excessive buds makes the whole flowering period grow vigorously, with flowers of uniform size. Otherwise, the buds on the top stem segments will wilt because of insufficient nutrients.
During the flowering period, apply a granular compound fertiliser once every ten days, shallowly buried in the soil along the pot, and never close to the roots, so as not to burn the roots. The potting soil can be allowed to dry out and become moist alternately. If you do a good job of care and management before flowering, then in winter and early the following spring you will see, just as you wished, a pot of beautiful and spectacular Christmas cactus.
From the end of February to early March of the following year, the flowering of the Christmas cactus will gradually weaken and then end. At this time, the Christmas cactus is about to enter its dormant period. Most of the stem segments that previously bore flowers become soft and wrinkled. Although some still bear a few remnant flowers, all of them should be cut off completely, and at the same time pay attention to trimming the flower shape. Around the spring equinox, place the plant on a balcony or at a window in a rain-sheltered, ventilated spot. The potting soil should be kept dry, and spray some water mist on the plant frequently to keep the branches fresh and bright. Once the dormant period is over and new shoots sprout, you can fertilise and water normally.
1. The Christmas cactus can be watered when it is flowering, but water it less and try not to water it as much as possible, otherwise it is very easy to cause bud drop. When the Christmas cactus is flowering, water as little as possible and do not fertilise; watering once every half a month is fine. It is best to water in the morning, with the water temperature close to that of the environment. The potting soil should not be too dry or too wet; water evenly so that most of the potting soil is moist and no water flows out of the bottom of the pot. This is especially important to note when planting in clay soil; never water until it runs through. Simply put, water less.
2. Do not move the position of the Christmas cactus when it is flowering. The buds of the Christmas cactus have a very strong phototropic tendency. Changing the location frequently will make the buds frequently twist toward the sunlight, and the final result is that the neck is twisted off. Therefore, when the Christmas cactus is flowering, you must not change its position, otherwise you may see continuous bud drop.