Things to Note When Using a Humidity Tray for Orchid Growing and Fertilizing Methods for Edible Fungi
Some growers, limited by economic conditions, adopt a semi-natural state for growing orchids. They use humidity trays to increase humidity for the orchids, keeping the potting medium in the pots in a constantly moist state. Orchids grown this way, apart from some scorched tips caused by dry air, have decent plants and root systems, so growing in a semi-natural state combined with humidity tray humidification is quite a good method. There are many points to note when using humidity trays. Below, the editor of the Agricultural Knowledge Network will tell you some methods and precautions for using humidity trays!
I. The Humidifying Effect of Humidity Trays
A humidity tray is a water-holding tool placed under the bottom of an orchid pot; the small ones are called humidity trays, the large ones are called humidity basins. Humidity trays are commonly used nowadays for potted flowers, made with plastic molds into a shallow-basin-mouth round-dish style; in orchid cultivation, a size of 15-20 cm in diameter is generally chosen.
Humidity basins are custom-made according to environmental needs, generally made from galvanized sheet or stainless steel sheet.
During the interval between waterings, when the air is dry and the water in the potting medium evaporates faster, due to internal absorption, the water in the humidity tray will slowly be drawn up along the pot feet, thereby extending the time the potting medium in the pot stays moist, making the dryness and moisture at the top and bottom of the potting medium tend to be consistent, and playing a good regulating role for subsequent thorough watering.
The water stored in the humidity tray, after being absorbed by the potting medium and evaporating, will undoubtedly also add a certain amount of water molecules to the air. Therefore, the moisture-retaining and humidifying effects of humidity trays are obvious.
II. Design and Use of Humidity Trays of Different Sizes
The humidity trays now used in orchid cultivation are dazzling in variety, with numerous specifications. The humidity trays used in the Jiangsu-Zhejiang area are relatively simple, made from recycled plastic by rough processing; thin-walled, not durable, easily aged, and after 3-4 years of use they break under slight force, with few styles as well. In Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan, and Yu, the making of special humidity basins for orchids can be described as relatively refined; the finely made humidity basins have thick walls and proper shapes, are durable for long-term use, and the basin bottom bears anti-counterfeiting marks and patent numbers, etc.
Humidity basins are generally larger in size and can be made from galvanized sheet, stainless steel sheet, aluminum sheet, plastic sheet, etc. The first three can be welded; plastic sheets can only have their joints bonded with strong adhesive. Galvanized sheet has its protective layer for protection and is cheap, making it the first choice. Stainless steel sheet and aluminum sheet are not corrosion-resistant and are expensive, so they are not recommended. The joints of plastic sheets must be firmly bonded with strong adhesive to prevent leakage.
For making humidity basins, an edge height of 10 cm is best, and a maximum specification of 80 x 165 cm is best; oversized specifications are not easy to carry and inconvenient to use, and one galvanized sheet can make exactly one humidity basin of this size, causing no waste of material. Leave 1-2 water nozzles on one side for draining water when too much is stored, which can usually be plugged with a wooden stopper.
In short, the specific shape and size of a humidity basin should be determined according to environmental needs.
Humidity basins can be placed on the ground for use, or mounted below the orchid rack at 30-50 cm above the ground. Some orchid friends directly mount the humidity basin high and arrange rows of red bricks inside it, then place the orchid pots on top. They want to increase the evaporation amount through the rapid internal absorption of the red bricks, making the air's water molecules heavier, to achieve the purpose of humidifying the air. This practice has a better humidifying effect than the former, but replacing the stored water is relatively difficult.
Because the water standing in the basin for too long will breed many microorganisms, among which harmful microorganisms are naturally not few, and the red bricks after being soaked in water make it easier for microorganisms to attach, so regular cleaning and hygiene are needed. Note that when using copper-based fungicides, try not to let them contact metal humidity basins, to prevent corrosion.
For humidity basins with moss growing after long-term water storage, Yilan bacteria can be used for purification.
III. Things to Note When Using Humidity Trays
There are requirements for using humidity trays; they are not suitable for use in every environment and every season. For example, in an environment with good moisture retention, using them in a high-humidity, rainy season will be counterproductive, causing the potting medium in the pot to hold too much water for a long time, affecting permeability and leading to stuffy, rotted roots. If the potting medium is too fine and has too strong moisture retention, it is not easy to use humidity basins, such as mountain soil, peat, etc.
The best environment for using humidity trays is small areas grown by semi-natural methods without sealing, such as balconies, courtyards, etc. It is beneficial for use with granular potting medium with strong permeability.
Suitable:
1. Suitable for use in cultivation with granular potting medium of strong permeability.
2. Suitable for use in dry air environments.
3. Suitable for use with orchid pots that have feet.
4. Suitable for internal absorption and moisture transfer.
Avoid:
1. Avoid using potting medium with too strong moisture retention.
2. Avoid the occurrence of waterlogging damage.
3. Avoid use in environments with strong sealing.
4. Avoid use in high-humidity, rainy seasons.