What issues should be noted when growing orchids?

China has a long history of orchid cultivation, and our predecessors accumulated a wealth of orchid-growing experience for us. We should thoroughly understand the experience of our predecessors, absorb its essence, and deeply recognize that: the cultivation environment, growing medium, watering, fertilizing, and prevention and control of pests and diseases are the five major aspects of orchid cultivation and management.

1. The choice of environment is relatively important. Cymbidium faberi mainly grows under shrubs in subtropical mountain forests, which has fostered the orchid's growth habits of preferring half shade and half sun, and preferring moisture and ventilation. As long as you grasp the growth patterns of orchids and provide or create environmental conditions close to the orchid's natural growing environment, all parts of the country are suitable for cultivating Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi.

2. Use of growing medium. Based on cultivation experience from various regions, as long as it is slightly acidic, any growing medium (including soilless cultivation) can grow orchids well; the issue is that different growing media require different management methods. It is best to use clay pots or Yixing clay pots, because orchids are aerial-root plants and breathable pots are very beneficial to orchid growth.

3. Reasonable watering is the key to growing orchids well. The water used for watering orchids must be clean and slightly acidic, and must never be sewage water carrying pathogens. The watering method should vary according to the plant. Loose mountain soil has sufficient water content; granular soil plus Ishiguro stone also absorbs water fairly fully, but does not accumulate water. After different growing media have been watered once thoroughly, when the pot surface is seen to be dry about one cm of the growing medium appears whitish. To increase air temperature, you may spray the pot surface to increase the moisture of the growing medium in the upper part of the pot so that the orchid grass and pseudobulbs remain somewhat moist; wait until the whole pot is not completely dry from top to bottom before watering heavily and thoroughly.

4. Fertilizing: On the basis of good watering, in order to promote better growth of the orchid grass, fertilizing becomes even more important. Organic fertilizer, that is, farmyard manure, should be diluted and can be applied once every ten-plus days. Other inorganic fertilizers (chemical fertilizers) should be used according to the instructions. During the orchid's growing period, foliar fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing outside the roots. Base fertilizer is also very important. When repotting and changing soil, an appropriate amount of base fertilizer can be added as long as the fertilizer does not touch the orchid roots. Too much fertilizer easily burns the orchid roots and causes black spots. If fertilizing is done properly, it can produce strong seedlings and good flowers. The general requirement for fertilizing orchids is a small amount, clear and dilute, truly achieving light fertilizer applied frequently.

5. Pest and disease control: Insect pests are easy to prevent, but fungal diseases are hard to cure. If scale insects and other pests are found on the orchid grass, you can spray with copper oxide or Decis according to the instructions, preferably using a mixture, 2-4 times per year. General fungal diseases such as black spot can also be treated with fungicides such as Kechade, thiophanate-methyl, and Baijunqing according to the instructions, with alternating treatment and preventive spraying at regular intervals of 15-20 days during the growing period. If Bayashi soft rot disease (rotococcus disease) is found, it is an incurable disease among orchids and cannot be eradicated; once discovered, remove it promptly. Therefore, when purchasing orchid grass, you must pay attention and absolutely do not buy lower-priced diseased grass and bring it home, thereby affecting other precious orchid grass. At present, with the increase in orchid demand at home and abroad, the trend for orchids is quite promising, especially premium, rare, and superlative varieties, whose prices are soaring to astronomical levels. Therefore, the orchid market and the potential market for orchids are very broad, and there is still great room and prospects for orchid development. So we must correctly face, adapt to, and go along with this gratifying situation. Fully protect the increasingly depleted orchid resources, proficiently master the growth habits of Chinese orchids, and grow your own orchid grass better.

How to grow orchids well indoors?

1. There must be gentle breezes. Wind can carry away stale air and muggy air currents while bringing in fresh air. Orchid growers through the ages have emphasized ventilation and air permeability to the height of relating to the survival of orchids, which shows its importance. Today's interior decoration materials release many harmful gases, and there is also domestic pollution indoors, so it is even more necessary to open doors and windows more to create air convection, and when necessary install an exhaust fan to ensure fresh indoor air. This is the primary condition for growing orchids well.

2. There must be nourishment from sunlight and rain (simulated). Only with the nourishment of sunlight and rain can plants be strong, and the elegant orchid is likewise inseparable from sunlight and rain. Indoors, relying merely on the partial sunlight coming through the window and frequently changing pot positions to let the orchid receive light is far from enough, so supplemental lighting should be used. Spray frequently in small amounts to simulate rain and dew, and sprinkle water on the ground to create a moist environment.

3. Pay attention to air permeability and drainage. a. Choose orchid pots with good air permeability and drainage performance (clay pots, sweating clay pots, etc.). b. Choose coarse growing media for cultivation (Ishiguro stone, Sendai soil, ceramsite, tree fern, etc.). c. Set up orchid shelves and grow them elevated in the air.

4. Water and fertilize in a timely manner. Because coarse growing media are used for cultivation, water is easily lost, so pay attention to moisture retention to avoid excessive dryness. It is better to use long-acting slow-release fertilizers (Magic Fertilizer, Zhihcheng, Haokangduo, Dabutie, etc.), supplemented by foliar fertilization.

5. Insect killing and sterilization. Carry out regular insect killing and sterilization, at least once a month for pest and sterilization prevention work. At ordinary times, always pay attention to the growth condition of the orchids, and promptly control pests and diseases when found so as to prevent their spread. How to grow orchids: "Three parts planting, seven parts care." This is the ancients' experience in growing orchids. The quality of care determines whether the orchids flourish and whether they can bloom, so the predecessors attached great importance to this for good reason. The following specifically introduces methods for caring for and managing orchids.

I. Location

The location where orchids are placed is very important, as it directly affects the growth and development of orchids. Orchids are generally placed in the open in spring, summer, and autumn (in summer, placed in a shaded spot in the open), and placed indoors in winter. Outdoors, it is best to have open space on all sides and moist air. Indoors, there should be sufficient light, preferably facing south. In this way, it is beneficial to orchid growth. Orchid pots are best placed on wooden racks or tables, not on the ground.

II. Shading

Orchids mostly belong to semi-shade plants, and most species fear direct sunlight, so appropriate shading is needed. In early to mid-April, orchids can receive more sunlight to promote their growth. After late April, appropriate shading is needed. For summer orchids and autumn orchids with upright leaves, it is best to place them on the south side of a shaded area so that they receive somewhat more sunlight; for drooping-leaf autumn orchids and spring orchids, receiving two hours of light per day is best. From the beginning of June to September, shading should be started earlier each day; for example, if using reed curtains, dense curtains or two layers of sparse curtains can be used. After October, when the weather turns cooler and sunlight is weaker, shading can be delayed, but around noon attention should still be paid to doing good shading work.

III. Rain protection

Orchids can take light rain, but must avoid mold rain, showers, or continuous rain. During the mold rain season, rain protection work must be done especially well. From late June to mid-September, there are often showers. If the rain duration is short and the rainfall is also small, more water should be given in the evening to let the hot air in the pot escape; otherwise the orchids will be damaged, or even root rot and death will occur. If a shower is followed by sunshine, shade must be provided in time to prevent the ground's hot air from rising and affecting orchid growth. In rainy seasons, which coincide with the stage when orchids are sprouting leaf buds, if the pot soil is too warm it will cause poor leaf bud growth or invite disease. At this time, a small amount of plant ash can be scattered to regulate the moisture of the pot soil. IV. Watering. There is a flower proverb: "Dry orchids, wet chrysanthemums." This saying has some truth. Generally speaking, for orchids, eight parts dry and two parts wet is best. If too wet, the flowers easily rot at the roots and die. The principle of watering should be: water when dry, stop when wet, and appropriately lean toward dry. In specific practice, generally attention should be paid to: during the growing period (May to the end of June), water somewhat more; during the leaf bud sprouting stage (about March-April) and the flowering stage (about March-April), water somewhat less; during the dormant period (winter), water even less or not at all. If the pot is large and the orchid plant is small, water less; if the pot is small and the plant is large, water more. In hot, dry weather, water somewhat more; in cold, damp conditions (such as the mold rain season, etc.), water less or not at all. For orchids newly dug from the mountains, if the root system is sparse or many roots are broken, water less and keep the pot soil a bit dry; this will prevent root rot and help sprout new leaves. The ancients' experience that "do not let them dry in autumn, do not keep them wet in winter" is a very good summary of how to water Cymbidium goeringii and summer orchids. However, in some northern regions, because the climate in winter and early spring is too dry, orchids should not be allowed to become too dry either. Watering time: in summer and autumn, it is best to water after sunset so that the orchid leaf surfaces dry before nightfall; watering in the early morning is also acceptable. In winter and spring, it is best to water around sunrise. Do not suddenly use cold water to irrigate after the sun has scorched the plants, lest the soil temperature drop, affecting root water absorption and disturbing physiological balance. The amount of water should not be too large, so as to help suppress the occurrence of disease. Watering method: water should be poured in from the edge of the pot, and must not be poured into the flower buds, so as to avoid causing rot. The predecessors had very good summarized experience for watering orchids. For example, in "Record of Orchid Cultivation in the Capital" by Yu Zhao, different watering methods were proposed according to the twenty-four solar terms within a year. The excerpt is as follows for reference.

But two points need attention: first, "Record of Orchid Cultivation in the Capital" uses Beijing's climate as the standard; second, the months in the text refer to the lunar calendar rather than the Gregorian calendar. For example, "the first month" is actually February in the Gregorian calendar.

1. Start of Spring and Rain Water: Cymbidium goeringii has already set flowers, the soil should not be too dry; slightly moisten along the edge of the pot; if the pot of autumn orchids has not dried to the bottom, do not water.

2. Awakening of Insects: when the pot of Cymbidium goeringii is dry to half the pot (empty above, solid below), it can be moistened with water, but not too much; autumn orchids same as before.

3. Spring Equinox: Cymbidium goeringii has finished flowering and should avoid dampness; when the pot is half dry, it can be moistened with water.

4. Pure Brightness and Grain Rain: do not let the pot soil become too dry; moisten with water every 5 days.

5. Start of Summer: orchids begin to be brought out of the room, and should be watered thoroughly once.

6. Grain Full: do not let the pot soil be too dry or too wet. If spots appear on the leaves, it is too wet; if the tips of new shoots wither, it is too dry. Water one sheng (about a dried teacup) every 4 days, so that the lower two-thirds of the pot soil from the bottom up is moist.

7. Grain in Ear: the climate is dry, so even more attention should be paid not to let it become too dry or too wet.

8. Summer Solstice: the pot soil must not be too dry. If there is heavy rain, it can only endure one day. If there are consecutive days of overcast rain, the pot should be moved to a ventilated place.

9. Minor Heat: at this time the air is too moist, and the pot soil must not be too wet. The pot should be placed in a ventilated place. If it is hot and dry with little rain, water one sheng every 2 days. After heavy rain or one heavy wetting, you must wait until the pot soil dries to two-thirds; otherwise it should not be watered again.

10. Major Heat: the pot soil easily dries all the way through, so note that only one heavy rain or one heavy wetting per day is appropriate.

11. Start of Autumn: orchids need water at this time; water 2 sheng every 3 days, and it is also advisable to shelter them from wind.

12. End of Heat: water once every 5 days. Except during consecutive days of haze and rain, they can be allowed to receive rain and dew.

13. White Dew: autumn orchids need frequent watering even more than spring orchids, but after becoming wet they must dry greatly before they can be wet again.

14. Autumn Equinox: if autumn orchids have already produced flowers, watering should be slightly less; if they have not produced flowers, watering should be slightly increased.

15. Cold Dew: autumn orchids should be watered thoroughly, while spring orchids should not be watered thoroughly but should be moistened.

16. Frost Descent: orchids should be brought into the room, the watering time changed to midday, and after watering they should be placed in the midday sun for 1-2 hours.

17. Start of Winter: only moistening with water is suitable, about half a sheng every 5 days.

18. Minor Snow: the flower room should avoid warmth and should not be too moist. If too moist, it can cause root rot, scarred leaves, and even withering. If the pot has not dried to the bottom, only slightly moisten the surface of the soil.

19. Major Snow: autumn orchids do not need water; spring orchids should be slightly moistened.

20. Winter Solstice: neither should be irrigated.

21. Minor Cold: watering is taboo for both.

22. Major Cold: autumn orchids still do not need water; spring orchids can be slightly moistened with water.

V. Fertilizing

Orchid fertilizing should be decided according to the orchid's growth condition. Those growing luxuriantly and without disease can be fertilized; those growing poorly should not be fertilized or should be fertilized only a little. For orchids newly dug from the mountains, before new roots have developed, fertilizing is strictly forbidden. They need 1-2 years of cultivation, and only when the new roots are vigorous can they be fertilized; otherwise they easily wither and die. Generally speaking, in June-July, when orchid leaf buds have extended to about 1.5 cm, 1-2 applications of thin, fully decomposed liquid fertilizer can be given (chemical fertilizers are not suitable), but fertilizing is not suitable in high-temperature seasons. In August-September, apply 1-2 more applications of fully decomposed thin liquid fertilizer. For pure-color varieties of orchids, 1-2 applications of plant ash infusion can be given, with very good results. Fertilizing in the evening is best, and the next morning water once with clear water. A relatively simple way to judge whether orchids need fertilizing is to look at the depth of leaf color. If the leaves appear yellow and thin, it is a lack of fertilizer and top dressing should be given; if the leaves appear black and the leaf tips are scorched, it is excessive fertilizing and fertilizing should be stopped. As for fertilizer, various methods introduced above can be used to make fertilizer at home. When applying these fertilizers, they need to be diluted with 8-9 times water, and must not be too concentrated. When fertilizing, apply it to the root zone of the plant, and never apply it to the leaf surface. Main fertilizing times and dates for orchids: Times, Dates, Category, First time, Second time, Third time, Fourth time, Remarks. Spring orchid group: late June, mid-July, mid-August, early September. The fourth time should be especially thin. Summer orchid group: late June, mid-July, mid-August, early September. The fourth time should be especially thin. Autumn orchid group: early June, late June, late July, mid-August.

VI. Pruning

During orchid cultivation, pruning must be carried out continuously. When old leaves turn yellow and wither, they should be cut off in time to facilitate ventilation, and some leaf tips that have dried up should also be cut off. In particular, leaves harmed by pests and diseases must be removed in time to avoid contagion. When cutting off leaves with viral disease, the scissors used should not then be used to cut healthy leaves, in order to prevent the spread of the virus. If the same pair of scissors is used, it must be disinfected. After the flower buds of precious orchids emerge from the soil, if there are too many flower buds, keep the strong buds and remove the remaining thin and small flower buds; per pot, it is appropriate to keep 1-2 flower buds. If there are too many flower buds, it will both make that year's flowers bloom poorly and consume too much of the mother plant's nutrients, affecting the next year's flowering. Generally, orchids do not need to have their flower buds cut off. The flowers of Cymbidium goeringii bloom for about half a month, after which the flowers should be cut off; for summer orchids, when the last flower on the inflorescence has been open for one week, the inflorescence should also be cut off. Precious varieties should not be allowed to be pollinated and set seed; otherwise it will affect the next year's flowering. If used for hybrid breeding, then they need extra careful cultivation so that the fruit becomes plump and ripe.

VII. Cold protection

Autumn orchids should have cold protection work done early; for example, when the temperature is 2-3°C, they can be moved indoors. Cymbidium kanran, growing in the south, even more needs early cold protection. Spring and summer orchids have relatively strong cold resistance, but if freezing appears they must also be moved indoors in time. If the room temperature can be maintained at 1-2°C, they can overwinter. If a severe cold wave strikes and the room temperature drops below zero, heating must be carried out in time; generally it is enough to keep the room from freezing. Indoors, autumn orchids should be placed on the south-facing side, and spring and summer orchids on the other side. Around noon, windows facing south and southeast should be opened for ventilation (for autumn orchids on overcast days at 1-2°C, windows must not be opened, to prevent cold wind from blowing in and freezing the leaves). Autumn orchids prefer to be somewhat dry in winter; the pot soil of the other orchids should be kept moist.

VIII. Flower removal

For orchids that grow poorly, with few leaves per clump, or with poor roots, flower removal should be carried out. For better varieties, spring orchids can appropriately have 1-2 flower buds removed; for summer orchids, when the flower buds have extended, keep 1-2 flower buds and remove the rest. In this way, the flowers can last longer, more new leaves can sprout, and old leaves are also less likely to wither and die. Precious Cymbidium goeringii flowers should be removed after blooming for 3-5 days, so that the leaf buds grow robustly; for summer orchids, when the flowers have opened to the topmost one, they can also be cut off at a distance of cm from the pot surface.

IX. Flood prevention

If the cultivation site is open on all sides and the terrain is relatively high, then in summer when there are strong winds or a typhoon passes through, wind protection work must be done well, so as to prevent the leaves of summer orchids or Cymbidium kanran from being broken and damaged.

X. Spraying

In dry seasons, spray every evening on the balcony where the potted flowers are placed, mainly to make the ground moist and increase air humidity. The pot surface of the orchids should also be sprayed. When spraying, spray upward so that the mist droplets fall finely and evenly and the leaf surfaces become moist. This can promote good orchid growth and give the leaf surfaces a glossy sheen.

XI. Pest and disease control. Sterilization treatment should be carried out (exposure under the scorching sun is sufficient) to prevent disease occurrence. Orchids are most prone to southern blight in rainy, high-temperature seasons. It can be prevented by spraying with thiophanate-methyl 2000-3000 times solution or Bordeaux mixture. If the disease is severe, spray with WanjiaDuo 2000-5000 times solution, applying the medicine once every 10 days. Among insect pests, scale insects occur most frequently. This insect attaches to the base of the leaves. If scale insects are found, remove them promptly. To avoid scale insect infestation, starting in April, control can be done with Dushiben 1000-2000 times solution. In order to suppress the occurrence of orchid diseases, in addition to properly controlling the dryness and wetness of the pot soil at ordinary times, when choosing flower pots you should also use as many clay pots as possible and as few glazed pots as possible. Especially for poorly growing orchids newly dug from the mountains, clay pots must be used for planting. Doing so makes the pot soil dry easily, which can promote orchid growth and reduce disease occurrence.

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