How do you tell superior orchids from inferior ones and manage them well?
Since ancient times people have regarded the orchid as a symbol of nobility, elegance, patriotism and unwavering fidelity. The orchid symbolizes noble character. The orchid has a plain and elegant bearing, a dignified flower form and a delicate fragrance that carries far, and it has always served as a symbol of noble character. "Three parts planting, seven parts care" - this is the ancients' experience in growing orchids. The quality of care determines whether the orchid thrives and whether it blooms, so it made sense that the ancients attached great importance to this. The methods of caring for and managing orchids are described in detail below.
How to tell superior orchids from inferior ones
First, look at the fragrance. The orchid is fragrant without needing an audience; those with a clear, pure fragrance rather than a heavy one are top grade.
Second, look at the bearing. Those with a well-proportioned whole plant and harmonious flowers and leaves are good.
Third, look at the color. Flower color is best when it is a single pure color or pale green; dark green ranks next; those with red streaks or red dots on the petals and lip rank lower still; those that are red when first open and later turn green rank even lower. Leaf color is best when it is glossy and lustrous.
Fourth, look at the shoulders. When the two lateral petals on the left and right slope slightly upward, this is called "flying shoulders" and is the most prized; when they spread out horizontally in a "single-character shoulder" line, it is a superior variety; when the two lateral petals gradually droop after flowering, this is called "drooping shoulders" and ranks lower.
Fifth, look at the petals. Orchid fanciers generally agree that judging the petals is the main criterion. Lotus-petal types are top grade, plum-petal types rank next, and narcissus-petal types rank after that. Odd-petaled varieties with many flowers and butterfly-petal types rank a notch higher still.
Sixth, look at the column. For the column, those that are smooth and clean, fleshy and thick, and concave inward to form a pouch shape are good varieties.
Seventh, look at the lip. For the lip, those with a regular shape and round, short, large form are good. The color on the lip is called the "moss"; pure white, green, or fully red is best, yellow ranks next. The lip often bears red lines or block-shaped red patches; those with vivid color are good, and spots are best when they form a single dot, a single patch, or a triangular arrangement; the appearance of multiple lips is considered extraordinary.
Eighth, look at the column base. A small column base gives a lively appearance and is top grade. A hard, large column base is considered extraordinary.
Ninth, look at the shell. The shell is the bract; a discerning eye can tell from the bracts of a "mute grass" plant that one whose vein lines reach all the way to the top will surely produce good flowers. Generally, green ones are good and purple-red ones rank next.
Tenth, look at the stem. A stem of clear color, with a length proportionate to the flowers and leaves, and slender and rising above the leaves (commonly called "flowers standing out above the foliage") is good.
How orchids get through the winter
1. Move indoors for warmth. When winter comes the weather gradually turns cold, and with frequent cold snaps in particular, orchids kept outdoors must promptly be moved indoors to a spot that gets sun; for those living in apartment buildings, it is even better to place the orchid pots on a sunny enclosed balcony. With this orientation they receive sunlight in the morning and evening, which is extremely favorable for the orchid's growth, bud formation and flowering. For orchids brought indoors to overwinter, the room temperature should be kept between 5-15°C. If the room temperature is too low, it cannot provide cold protection and warmth. If too high, it will also affect the orchid's dormancy. However, for winter-flowering cymbidium and black orchid overwintering, the room temperature should be kept slightly higher, but still must not exceed 15°C. If the room temperature is too high, the flower stem grows slowly and the buds develop poorly, and formed buds are liable to shrivel and even die. For the more cold-tolerant spring orchid, 3-4 weeks at around 0°C are needed to complete spring dormancy and vernalization, after which the spring orchid can bloom. Therefore, for spring orchid overwintering, keeping the room temperature between 3-8°C is most suitable.
2. Control watering. "Never dry in summer and autumn, never wet in winter and spring" - this is the orchid-growing experience summarized by the ancients. In winter orchids are mostly in a dormant state, their physiological activity almost at a standstill, so they need less water at this time, and the potting soil being slightly moist is enough for them to overwinter safely. If the potting soil really has become very dry, then around noon on a clear, warm day, spray-water with water at or close to room temperature, just enough to make the potting soil slightly moist and no more; never use a lot of water, to prevent the potting soil from freezing or becoming too wet and rotting the roots. Rain or snow water is best for watering; freshly drawn tap water must not be used. If there is no rain or snow water and tap water must be used, let the tap water stand in the sun for one or two days and let the chlorine dissipate before using it. When watering, pour from the rim of the pot so that it gradually flows in to the flower's roots, until the roots are moist; do not water the leaves or the orchid's crown.
3. Limit fertilizer and increase light. During dormancy orchids generally need no fertilizer. Orchid roots are thick and long with no fibrous roots, and root fungi live symbiotically inside them. Generally, when orchids are repotted and the soil is changed every one or two years, the soil contains ample nutrients, so no fertilizer at all is needed in winter. However, for spring orchid and winter-flowering cymbidium during the growing period, a little phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can be sprayed on the leaves, using 1500 times diluted 0.2% monopotassium phosphate or compound trace elements. In addition, indoors, orchids can be given more light; where light is insufficient, lamplight can be used as a supplement. If orchids have sufficient light in winter, this benefits their vigorous growth and abundant flowering the following year, and at the same time can raise the orchid's cold resistance during overwintering.
4. Ventilate and change the air in good time. Orchids like warmth but also need air circulation, and they fear pollution from smoke, dust and stale air. In northern regions people often burn stoves to heat the indoors, and there is a lot of smoky, dusty, stale air indoors. At such times the orchid pots should be kept far from the stove. At the same time, around noon on clear, warm days, open doors and windows to ventilate and change the air, and the pots can also be taken outside to a wind-sheltered, sunny spot to get some sunlight, so that the orchid plants absorb fresh air. Orchids placed on an enclosed balcony should likewise have the windows and doors opened to let the air circulate. When the temperature drops, the doors and windows should be closed at once and the pots brought back indoors, so that the orchid plants do not suffer cold damage.
5. Prevent pests and diseases. If orchids overwinter indoors or on an enclosed balcony and the temperature and humidity are somewhat high, then once pest or disease damage is found, spray the appropriate pesticide promptly. Protective spraying should also be done at ordinary times, for example spraying the potting soil, the orchid plants and the surrounding environment with Bordeaux mixture, which can prevent or reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.
During the orchid's vigorous growth period, more fertilizer should be applied; during dormancy or weak growth periods, no fertilizer need be applied. Excessive fertilization will burn the roots and leaves and cause irreparable loss. Orchids like circulating, unpolluted air. The orchid-growing site should be far from coal gas and cooking fumes, and far from places where dust flies. Cooking fumes and dust settling on the leaf surface will block the leaves' respiration and affect photosynthesis. Poor air circulation will cause bacteria and viruses to settle on the leaf surface and harm the orchid's growth.
