A Detailed Guide to Home Tulip Planting and Hydroponic Methods

Tulips are bulbous flowers planted in autumn and blooming in spring; they prefer cool conditions and fear heat. Under natural conditions, planting in autumn when the soil at a depth of 15 cm is about 10°C is most suitable, because this temperature is suitable for root growth; in North China this temperature occurs around the "National Day" (October 1), while in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River it occurs from late October to early November. Before the arrival of cold winter, good root development is extremely important for good growth the following spring. In winter, the planted bulbs undergo further development at low temperatures, and through the long winter cold they break dormancy and sprout in early spring; as temperatures rise, they unfold leaves and bloom.

Tulips usually grown at home are imported bulbs bought from flower markets; they have generally undergone low-temperature treatment, usually bulbs treated at 5°C or 9°C for 2 to 3 months, commonly known as "5°C bulbs" and "9°C bulbs", and can be planted directly. For potted soil, fertile sandy loam can be used. Before planting, peel off the hard yellowish-brown outer skin of the bulb, which is beneficial to root growth. Bury two-thirds of the bulb in the soil and place it in an environment of 7°C to 10°C; this temperature is favorable for root formation but unfavorable for bud growth and pathogen reproduction. If the temperature is lower, root formation is slow, delaying later stem and leaf growth; if the temperature is high, stems and leaves grow early before the root system has formed, easily producing the blind-flower phenomenon, that is, only growing flower buds without blooming. During the rooting stage, no light is needed; it can be placed in a cardboard box and kept in a closed balcony or similar place at about 9°C. After the root system has formed in about a month, it can be moved to a bright spot indoors to promote stem and leaf growth and flowering. If the room temperature exceeds 20°C and light is weak, it is prone to leggy growth; 15°C to 20°C is more suitable, and it usually blooms in about 1 month, though this depends on the variety as to how early or late it blooms. If the purchased bulbs have not yet undergone low-temperature treatment, they should be planted by referring to the method for bulbs not treated with low temperature: after potting in autumn, bury the flowerpot outdoors underground and cover with 10 cm of soil; generally after 1 month the pot can be taken out and placed indoors for cultivation, and it will bloom in about one month. The nutrition needed for the growth and flowering of tulips mainly comes from the bulb, while the formation of daughter bulbs depends more on nutrients in the soil; therefore, to obtain robust plants with large flowers, the quality of the bulb is also very important. Generally speaking, a bulb with a circumference greater than 10 cm is of superior quality; this should be noted when purchasing bulbs, and of course whether there is damage at the basal plate is also something to note when selecting bulbs. For potted tulips, after flowering, fertilizer can be applied promptly to promote growth and encourage the formation of new bulbs.

The hydroponic cultivation of tulips is also carried out according to the growth habits of tulips. Since hydroponic tulips use bulbs only once, it is even more important to select superior-quality bulbs, and the selected bulbs must have undergone low-temperature treatment. Fill a vase or other container with water, place the bulb at the mouth of the container so that water submerges half of the bulb, then place the hydroponic container in an environment of 7°C to 10°C to promote rooting; after the root system has formed, about 15 to 20 days are needed before it can be moved to a bright spot indoors. During the rooting stage, because water is consumed quickly, check for water loss every 2 to 3 days and replenish water promptly to prevent the roots from drying out due to water loss. If the bulb is relatively small, some nutrient solution can also be added; use 0.15 g per liter of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer plus an equal amount of calcium nitrate. If there is no calcium nitrate, compound fertilizer alone will also do. During the hydroponic stage, half of the water or nutrient solution can be replaced every 3 to 4 days; if all the water solution is replaced at once, the roots tend to grow thin and long rather than robust.