How to propagate rhododendrons? A detailed guide to common propagation methods

1. Cuttings method: This method is the most widely used, with the advantages of simple operation, high survival rate, rapid growth, and stable characteristics.

① Timing: for Western azaleas, late May to early June; for Mao azaleas, early to mid-June; for spring azaleas and summer azaleas, mid to late June. At this time the branches are at a moderate stage of maturity, and the climate is warm and humid.

② Cuttings: take current-year branches that have just become woody, snap them off with a heel, trim the frayed end smooth, cut off the lower leaves, keep 3 to 5 leaves at the top, and keep them moist until planting.

③ Cutting management: the cutting medium can use orchid soil, alpine humus soil, yellow subsoil, vermiculite, etc. The insertion depth should preferably be 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After inserting the cuttings, spray thoroughly with water, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and provide appropriate shade. Keep the cutting medium consistently moist within one month. Mao azaleas, spring azaleas, and summer azaleas can take root in about one month, while Western azaleas need about 60 to 70 days.

2. Grafting: one rootstock can be grafted with multiple scions of multiple varieties, growing quickly, with good plant shape and a high survival rate.

① Timing: from May to June, using the soft shoot cleft grafting or side grafting method.

② Rootstock: choose 2-year-old Mao azaleas, requiring the new shoots and scions to match appropriately in thickness. The best rootstock varieties are the Mao azaleas 'Yu Hudie' and 'Zi Hudie'.

③ Scion: from the mother plant of the Western azalea, cut 3 cm to 4 cm long soft shoots, remove the lower leaves, keep 3 to 4 small leaves at the tip, and cut the base into a wedge shape with a blade, with the cut surface about 0.5 cm to 1.0 cm long. 5 Grafting management: cut off the current-year new shoot of the Mao azalea at 2 cm to 3 cm, remove the leaves at that position, make a 1 cm vertical cut, insert the wedge-shaped end of the scion, align the cambium layers, tie the joint with plastic film tape, put on a plastic bag and tie the opening to retain moisture; place under a shade shed, avoiding direct sunlight and exposure. Seven days after grafting, as long as there are fine water droplets inside the bag and the scion does not wilt, it is possible that it has survived; remove the bag after 2 months, and remove the tying tape the following spring.