Oleander Planting and Cultivation Methods and Key Technical Points
1. Planting time is in spring. Open-field cultivation in the Yellow River basin and areas to its south; container cultivation in cold northern regions, overwintering indoors. When transplanting, the plant must be planted with a soil ball. The planting site must be sunny and free of standing water. Summer transplanting is also possible, but some branches must be pruned off and an appropriate number of leaves cut away to reduce water transpiration and promote survival. For container plants, repot once every 2-3 years, using a growing medium of 6 parts leaf mold and 4 parts river sand; before planting, a horseshoe chip can also be placed at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer. Before planting, shorten the branches to promote and maintain the three-fork, nine-top branching pattern.
2. Light and temperature: Potted oleander needs to be brought indoors to overwinter, with room temperature kept above 5°C, placed in a spot with full sunlight by a window. Generally, move it into the greenhouse around October 20 and move it out around April 20. After taking it out, first place it in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot, then gradually place it in a ventilated, sunny spot.
3. Watering and fertilizing: After planting, water thoroughly. For ground-planted oleander, once it has become established, the soil can be kept consistently moist. For potted oleander in summer, water once every morning and once in the afternoon; in spring and autumn, generally water once a day; after being brought indoors in winter, reduce the amount of water, watering again only when dry. During the peak growing season, apply dilute liquid fertilizer 2-3 times a month. Potted oleander can be given organic fertilizer once each spring, such as rotted manure or barnyard manure. Apply a nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizer once before flowering and once after flowering. Stop fertilizing in winter.
4. Shaping and pruning: Oleander has strong sprouting ability, so the tree shape can be controlled through pruning. Generally, when the main trunk of the seedling grows to 40-50 cm, the trunk is headed back, keeping 3 main branches and letting them continue to grow; thereafter, during pruning in early spring or late autumn each year, use the same method to prune the main and side branches and the side branches on them, so that the tree shape becomes a "mushroom shape" of "three forks and nine tops," ensuring a full crown and high ornamental value. In addition, after flowering, spent flowers should be removed promptly to reduce nutrient consumption.