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New Method for Styling Nandina Bonsai

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As early as the Ming and Qing dynasties, nandina (Nandina domestica) was listed as a garden plant for classical courtyards, and later introduced into bonsai, where it became deeply beloved in bonsai circles. However, this evergreen upright shrub has a tall trunk with few branches, grows extremely vigorously in spring, and is difficult to control in shape, which brings great disadvantages to bonsai styling. Through years of practice, the author has summarized three styling measures for the reference of bonsai enthusiasts. 1. Truncation. In late winter and early spring, take the collected raw stumps and, according to the design requirements, select dormant bud points of moderate height for truncation. Let it grow freely in the first year, and in the same period of the second year, most of the previous year's branch tips can be cut off, leaving only one to two branches at the lowest position, so that new buds sprout from the leaf axils. Repeat this method every year thereafter to avoid the trunk growing taller year by year. This practice is also beneficial to nandina fruiting.

As early as the Ming and Qing dynasties, nandina (Nandina domestica) was listed as a garden plant for classical courtyards, and later introduced into bonsai, where it became deeply beloved in bonsai circles. However, this evergreen upright shrub has a tall trunk with few branches, grows extremely vigorously in spring, and is difficult to control in shape, which brings great disadvantages to bonsai styling. Through years of practice, the author has summarized three styling measures for the reference of bonsai enthusiasts.

1. Truncation. In late winter and early spring, take the collected raw stumps and, according to the design requirements, select dormant bud points of moderate height for truncation. Let it grow freely in the first year, and in the same period of the second year, most of the previous year's branch tips can be cut off, leaving only one to two branches at the lowest position, so that new buds sprout from the leaf axils. Repeat this method every year thereafter to avoid the trunk growing taller year by year. This practice is also beneficial to nandina fruiting.

2. Needle pricking. During the spring budding period, when new buds grow to 2 cm long, pierce the stem of the bud with a needle; each time the new bud grows 1 cm, prick once with a needle. As the bud diameter thickens, increase the number of needle pricks to two to four times. In this way, the growth of new buds can be inhibited and new buds can be prompted to sprout again on the trunk or top. By using this method continuously in cycles, new buds will keep sprouting, which can solve the problem of few branches on the trunk, shorten branch length, and meet the requirements of styling and shape control. Stop before nandina blooms in June. During this period, remove clustered nandina seedlings in time.

3. Care. To ensure that the styling measures are effective, the care and management of nandina must be done properly. In spring, nandina sprouting requires sufficient light and a humid environment, so shading is not necessary; after July, it needs to be placed in a cool, shaded place, and brought out again after the Start of Autumn; in winter, move it indoors, with the potting soil slightly on the dry side, so it can overwinter. As for fertilizing, from February onward, apply once or twice a month, and stop in July; use cake fertilizer and bone meal fertilizer alternately, and do not apply too much or too concentrated. At the end of May, spray once with monopotassium phosphate. The implementation of the above methods requires overall consideration. This method is suitable for the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River.

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