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Fully Enclosed Cutting Propagation Technique for Azaleas

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1. Selecting and building the cutting bed: Choose a sheltered, shady, well-drained site to build the cutting bed. Cover it with a black shade net (60% to 70% shading rate); the sides of the shade net must hang down to the ground so that the entire structure is in a cool, shady environment. On the seedbed, set up a small arch tunnel with a center height of 40 cm. Cover it with a layer of plastic film, then a layer of black shade net (60% to 70% shading rate). 2. Laying the substrate: In early May, mix leaf mold and perlite (1:1) evenly and spread it in the seedbed to a depth of no less than 30 cm. Level it

I. Selecting and building the cutting bed: Choose a sheltered, shady, well-drained site to build the cutting bed. Cover it with a black shade net (60% to 70% shading rate); the sides of the shade net must hang down to the ground so that the entire structure is in a cool, shady environment. On the seedbed, set up a small arch tunnel with a center height of 40 cm. Cover it with a layer of plastic film, then a layer of black shade net (60% to 70% shading rate).

II. Laying the substrate: In early May, mix leaf mold and perlite (1:1) evenly and spread it in the seedbed to a depth of no less than 30 cm. Level it and spray with a 0.5% carbendazim solution to disinfect and sterilize.

III. Cutting and enclosure: When the new shoots are in a semi-mature state, cuttings can be taken. With this method, there is no need to wait for the plum rain season; cuttings can be taken from late May all the way to late August. When cutting, remove the lower leaves of the cuttings, soak them in a 2500 ppm to 5000 ppm (0.25% to 0.5%) B9 aqueous solution for 5 to 10 seconds, and insert them into the substrate. Water each section as soon as it is planted, then cover it immediately. Once the entire bed is planted, seal it completely at once and shade it fully.

IV. Management: After cutting, because the temperature keeps rising, the moisture in the bed soil gradually decreases. Generally, from late June to early July, one supplemental watering is needed; when watering, add 0.5% carbendazim solution and spray, then maintain the sealed state. In August, remove the flower buds; if the bed soil appears dry at this time, replenish water appropriately. Generally, roots begin to form in August. In mid-September, the top shade net (on the main frame) can first be removed; by late September to early October, the small arch tunnel can be opened for fertilizing (inorganic fertilizer 0.1% to 0.5%) and watering (mix 0.2% ferrous sulfate or alum fertilizer water into the water when watering). In late October, cover again with the small arch tunnel's plastic film and shade net, and add an extra arch rod to protect against wind and snow. After winter begins, add another layer of new plastic film over the small arch tunnel to help it overwinter safely. By April of the following year, remove all coverings and strengthen fertilizer and water management.

Practice shows that this method has the advantages of being simple and easy to carry out, saving labor and materials, being easy to manage, having a high survival rate (over 95%), and growing quickly, making it suitable for large-scale production.

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