Detailed Explanation of Eight Key Points in Azalea Cultivation and Management

Azaleas have lush branches and leaves and brilliant flowers. In cultivation and management, the following eight points must be noted:

1. Carefully choose flower pots. For potted azaleas, clay pots are most suitable, especially for small seedlings, because clay pots absorb water and breathe, which is beneficial to root growth and development. For large seedlings over 3 years old, purple clay pots can also be used, but more broken tiles and coarse-grained potting soil should be placed at the bottom of the pot to facilitate air permeability and drainage, otherwise root rot is likely.

2. Skillfully choose potting soil. Azaleas like loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic mountain soil or potting soil with a pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. If alkaline soil with more lime or heavy clay soil with poor drainage is used, then no matter how many times it is planted, it will not survive.

3. Pay attention to water quality. For watering azaleas, it is best to use stored rainwater, or alum water with 0.1% ferrous sulfate added to the water, or fermented rice washing water. If alkaline water is used for irrigation, the potting soil will quickly become alkalized, the leaves will turn yellow and fall off, and the growth vigor will weaken, seriously affecting growth and development.

4. Apply thin fertilizer frequently. Azalea roots are fine and weak, and their ability to absorb fertilizer is relatively poor, so fertilization should not be too concentrated. For spring azaleas in February to March, and for summer azaleas in March to April, apply thin fertilizer mainly composed of phosphorus fertilizer such as bone meal and superphosphate 2 to 3 times. After the flowers fade, apply thin fertilizer mainly composed of nitrogen fertilizer such as green manure water and cake fertilizer water once every 7 to 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. From August onward is the bud differentiation period for azaleas, so apply compound fertilizer combining nitrogen and phosphorus once every 10 to 15 days until mid-October. For 1- to 2-year-old small seedlings, apply less or no fertilizer; do not fertilize diseased or weak seedlings.

5. Protect from sun and get through summer. Azaleas are semi-shade flowers. In summer, never expose them to the scorching sun, otherwise the branches and leaves will be scorched and turn yellow and withered. In early summer, shade them around noon; in midsummer and early autumn, provide full-day shade.

6. Safe overwintering. The most ideal temperature for azaleas to overwinter is: 5 to 8°C for seedlings over 3 years old, and about 10°C for 1- to 2-year-old seedlings. Therefore, they should be moved indoors in time to protect against cold and keep warm. However, the room temperature should not exceed 12°C, otherwise it is easy to cause leggy growth of tender leaves and wilting and falling of flower buds.

7. Proper bud thinning. Azalea flower buds have already formed in winter. To judge whether the flower buds can bloom in spring, the simplest method is to gently pat the flower buds with the palm of your hand. Those that feel relatively hard are effective flower buds that can bloom. If there are too many effective flower buds, proper bud thinning is needed. Keep only one bud per branch, so as to promote concentration of nutrients, make the flowers large, and prolong the flowering period.

8. Stable-shape pruning. After azaleas bloom, in addition to promptly removing faded flowers, also cut off leggy branches, overly dense branches, thin and weak branches, diseased and dead branches, etc., so as to make the tree shape full. If it is an already shaped azalea bonsai, then according to the tree shape, combined with wiring, carry out appropriate thinning or shortening pruning, so as to maintain its natural momentum, enhance artistic beauty, and increase its ornamental value and economic value.